Baking & Pastry

7/29/2019 Baking & Pastry

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CHAPTER 14 Pies, Tarts, and Fruit Desserts 501

CHAPTER 15 Filled and Assembled Cakes and Tortes 543

CHAPTER 16 Individual Pastries 587

CHAPTER 17 Plated Desserts 645

CHAPTER 18 Chocolates and Confections 697

CHAPTER 19 Dcor 757

CHAPTER 20 Wedding and Specialty Cakes 803

APP EN DI X A Elemental Recipes 820

APPE NDIX B Conversions, Equivalents, and Calculations 834

APP EN DIX C Readings and Resources 840

APPE NDIX D Templates 845

Glossary 849

Recipe Index 853

Subject Index 864


3/11

CLOCKWISE

FROM LEFT:

Cutting orange

segments, also

referred to as

suprmes

Cutting a mango

Peeling a kiwi

C U T T I N G A N D P E E L I N G F R U I T

Cutting Citrus Suprmes

To cut citrus fruit into suprmes (segments), slice off the top and bottom of the fruit,

and slice the skin and white pith completely away. Then slice between the connective

membranes on either side of each citrus segment to release it; twist the knife and use

a scooping motion to cut out the suprme.

Peeling and Slicing a Mango

To peel and slice a mango, first remove the skin with as little of the edible flesh as pos-

sible. Cut off the flesh from the broad sides of the pit in two large sections, cutting as

close to the pit as possible. Then cut the flesh from the two narrow sides, following

the curve of the pit. Cube or slice the flesh as desired.

Peeling a Kiwi

To peel a kiwi, slice off one end of the fruit. Work the tip of a spoon down between

the flesh and the skin and carefully slide it all the way around the fruit, then pop out

the flesh. Cube or slice as desired.


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5/11

Florida Sunshine TartMakes 1 tart (9 in/23 cm)

PUFF PASTRY (page 260) 10 oz 284 g

EGG WASH (page 825) as needed as needed

CLASSIC CARAMEL 4 oz 113 gSAUCE (page 451)

PASTRY CREAM 6 oz 170 g(page 388)

ORANGES, peeled 8 each 8 each

AP RI COT GL AZ E, warm 2 oz 57 g(page 429)

1. Roll out the puff pastry 14 in/6 mm thick. Cut a 10-in/25-cm circle from the pastry. Cut

a 9-in/23-cm circle from the center of the circle, creating a ring 12 in/1 cm wide.

2. Brush the puff pastry circle with egg wash. Cut the puff pastry to open it and place it on

top of the circle to create a border around its edge. Cut off any excess so the ends of

the border ring do not overlap. Brush the top of the ring with egg wash. Dock the bot-

tom of the circle and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan.

3. Bake at 350F/177C until lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Reduce the oven tem-

perature to 300F/149C and bake until the shell is dry and golden brown, about 10

minutes longer.

4. Pour the caramel sauce into the shell while it is still warm and spread it evenly. Allow

the caramel to cool completely and chill .

5. Using a pastry bag fitted with a No. 5 plain tip, pipe the pastry cream into the bottom of

the shell in concentric circles.

6. Cut the oranges into suprmes. Arrange the segments in a spiral in the shell, overlap-

ping the segments and completely covering the pastry cream.

7. Brush the oranges with a thin layer of apricot glaze. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

P I E S , T A R T S , A N D F R U I T D E S S E R T S

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6/11

Lemon Fantasy TartMakes 1 tart (9 in/23 cm)

1-2-3 COOKIE DOUGH 10 oz 284 g(page 249)

EGGS 8 oz 227 g

SUGAR 634 oz 191 g

HEAVY CREAM 5 fl oz 150 mL

LEMON ZEST, grated 1 tsp 3 g

LEMON JUICE 4 fl oz 120 mL

1. Roll out the dough 18 in/3 mm thick and line the tart pan.

2. Blind bake the tart shell at 325F/163C until very light golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes.

Cool completely.

3. Whisk together the eggs and sugar.

4. Whip the cream to soft peaks.

5. Add the lemon zest and juice to the egg mixture. Fold in the cream.

6. Pour the filling into the tart shell. Bake at 350F/177C until just set, about 45 minutes.

Cool completely.

7. Chill for several hours, or until fully set.

B A K I N G A N D P A S T R Y

520


7/11

CLOCKWISE

F RO M T OP L EF T:

Almond Pinenut

Tart, Lemon

Fantasy Tart,

Strawberry

Rhubarb Tart,

Apple Pie


8/11

G L O S S A R Y

849

GlossaryAC ID: A substance having a sour or sharp flavor. Foods gen-erally referred to as acids include citrus juice, vinegar, and

wine. A substances degree of acidity is measured on the pHscale; acids have a pH of less than 7.

AC TI VE DR Y YEA ST: A dehydrated form of yeast that needs

to be hydrated in warm water (105F/41C) before using it.It contains about one-tenth of the moisture of compressedyeast.

AD ULT ER AT ED FO OD : Food that has been contaminated tothe point that it is considered unfit for human consumption.

AE RA TI ON : To incorporate air by beating or whipping theingredients together.

AE RO BIC BA CT ER IA: Bacteria that require the presence ofoxygen to function.

AG AR -A GA R: A substance derived from certain sea vegeta-bles. It is eight times stronger than gelatin.

AL BUM IN: A water-soluble protein found in egg whites.

AL KA LI : A substance that tests at higher than 7 on the pHscale. Baking soda is an example of an alkaline ingredient.

AL MON D PA ST E: A mass of ground almonds and sugar.

AL PH A CR YS TA LS : Large crystals in untempered chocolate.They are not uniform or stable and are melted at 83F/28Cto properly temper chocolate.

AM YLO PE CT IN : A component of starch composed of irregu-larly branched molecules. With a high presence of amy-lopectin, a starch will act to increase viscosity to a greaterextent without causing a gel to form.

AM YLO SE : A component of starch composed of long, linearmolecules. The higher the presence of amylose, the morethe substance is prone to gel.

AN AE ROB IC BAC TE RI A : Bacteria that do not require oxygento function.

AS H CO NT EN T: The mineral content in flour.

AU TO LY SE : A resting period for dough after mixing theflour and water. This rest allows the dough to fully hydrateand to relax the gluten.

BACTERIA: Microscopic organisms. Some have beneficialproperties; others can cause food-borne illnesses when con-taminated foods are ingested.

BAKING POWDER: A chemical leavening agent composed ofsodium bicarbonate, an acid, and a moisture absorber suchas cornstarch. When moistened and/or exposed to heat, itreleases carbon dioxide to raise a batter or dough.

BAKING SODA: A chemical leavening agent. Sodium bicar-bonate is an alkali that when combined with an acid breaksdown and releases carbon dioxide. This reaction causes theproduct to leaven as it is baked.

BATTER: A pourable mixture of combined ingredients, highin liquefiers.

BAUM (B): A scale for expressing the specific gravity of aliquid or the method for measuring the density of sugarsyrups. It is expressed in degrees.

BENCH REST: In yeast dough production, the stage thatallows the preshaped dough to rest before its final shaping.Also known as secondary fermentation.

BETA CRYSTALS: The small, stable fat crystals that givechocolate its shine and snap.

BIGA: Italian for an aged dough. A type of pre-ferment con-taining 50 to 60 percent water and 13 to 12 percent instantyeast.

BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE: Chocolate containing a mini-mum of 35 percent chocolate liquor with varying amountsof sweeteners and cocoa butter.

BLANCH: To remove the skins from nuts by scalding.

BLEND: To fold or mix ingredients together.

BLIND BAKE: To partially or completely bake an unfilledpastry crust.

BLOCK METHOD: A method for tempering chocolate inwhich a block of tempered chocolate is added to meltedchocolate and agitated until the proper temperature isreached, at which time the block is removed.

BLOOMING: (1) The process of allowing gelatin to soften in(sheet gelatin) or soak up (granulated gelatin) cold water.(2) For chocolate, see Fat bloom and Sugar bloom.

BOULANGER: The French word for baker.

BRAN: The tough outer layer of a grain kernel and the parthighest in fiber.

BRIX SCALE: A scale of measurement (decimal system) usedto determine the density and concentration of sugar in asolution.

CARAMELIZATION: The process of cooking sugar in thepresence of heat. The temperature range in which sugarcaramelizes is approximately 320 to 360F/160 to 182C.The browning of sugar enhances the flavor and appearanceof food.

CHEMICAL LEAVENER: An ingredient (such as baking sodaor baking powder) whose chemical action is used to pro-duce carbon dioxide gas to leaven baked goods.

CHOCOLATE LIQUOR: The product made by grinding cocoabeans without adding sugar or cocoa butter.

COATING CHOCOLATE: Chocolate made with fats otherthan cocoa butter, which does not require tempering to use.

COCOA BUTTER: The fat extracted from the cacao bean.

COMMON MERINGUE: A mixture of stiffly beaten egg whitesand sugar.

COMPOUND CHOCOLATE: See Coating chocolate.COMPRESSED FRESH YEAST: This type of yeast is moist andmust be refrigerated because it is extremely perishable.

COUVERTURE: A type of chocolate specifically designed forcoating or incorporation with other ingredients. Extracocoa butter is added to increase its smoothness, flexibility,and gloss after tempering. The cocoa butter content of cou-verture should be at least 32 percent.


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CREAMING: To blend fats and sugar together to incorporate air.

CROSS CONTAMINATION: The transference of disease-caus-ing elements from one source to another through physicalcontact.

CRUMB: A term used to describe the interior texture ofbaked goods.

CRYSTALLIZATION: A process that occurs when sugar isdeposited from a solution.

DENATURE: To alter the original form of a substance. Inproteins, exposure to heat or acid will cook or denaturethe protein.

DEXTROSE: A simple sugar made by the action of acids orenzymes on starch. Also known as corn sugar.

DISACCHARIDE: A complex or double sugar. When fructoseand dextrose are bonded together, this is called sucrose, ortable sugar. Maltose is another example of a disaccharide.

DISSOLVING: The process of heating bloomed gelatin untilit is transparent and liquid.

DOCK: To pierce dough lightly with a fork or dough docker(resembles a spiked paint roller) to allow steam to escapeduring baking. This helps the dough to remain flat and even.

DOCTOR: A substance that is added to a sugar solution tohelp prevent crystallization. Common doctors are acids andglucose.

DOUGH: A mixture of ingredients high in stabilizers andoften stiff enough to cut into shapes.

DUTCH PROCESS COCOA: Cocoa made by adding alkali tonibs or to cocoa powder to develop certain flavors, reduceacidity, and make it more soluble.

EMULSION: The suspension of two ingredients that do notusually mix. Butter is an emulsion of water in fat.

ENDOSPERM: The inside portion of a grain, usually thelargest portion, composed primarily of starch and protein.

ENRICHED DOUGH: Dough that is enriched with ingredients

that add fat or vitamins. Examples of these ingredients aresugar, eggs, milk, and fats.

FACULTATIVE BACTERIA: Bacteria that can survive bothwith and without oxygen.

FAT BLOOM: The white cast and soft texture that is theresult of poor tempering or exposure of chocolate to hightemperatures. Although fat bloom is visually and texturallyunappealing, the chocolate is safe to eat.

FERMENTATION: A process that happens in any doughcontaining yeast. It begins as soon as the ingredients aremixed together and continues until the dough reachesan internal temperature of 138F/59C during baking.As the yeast eats the sugars present in the dough, carbon

dioxide is released, which causes the dough to expand.Fermentation alters the flavor and appearance of thefinal product.

FOAMING: The process of beating eggs (the yolks and/orwhites) to incorporate air until they form a foam.

FOLDING: (1) To incorporate a lighter mixture into aheavier one. (2) The process of folding a dough overitself during the bulk fermentation stage to redistribute theavailable food supply for the yeast, to equalize the tempera-

ture of the dough, to expel gases, and to further develop thegluten in the dough.

FONDANT: Sugar cooked with corn syrup, which is inducedto crystallize by constant agitation, in order to produce thefinest possible crystalline structure. Fondant is used as cen-ters in chocolate production, or as a glaze in pastries.

FOOD-BORNE ILLNESS: An illness in humans caused by theconsumption of an adulterated food product. In order for a

food-borne illness to be considered official, it must involvetwo or more people who have eaten the same food, and itmust be confirmed by health officials.

FORMULA: A recipe in which measurements for each ingre-dient are given as percentages of the weight for the mainingredient.

FRUCTOSE: A monosaccharide that occurs naturally in fruitsand honey. Also known as fruit sugar or levulose.

GANACHE: An emulsion of chocolate and cream. Ganachemay also be made with butter or other liquids in place ofthe cream.

GTEAU: The French word for cake.

GELATIN: A protein derived from the skins and tendons of

animals. Gelatin is used as a binder and stabilizer. It is avail-able in granulated and sheet/leaf forms.

GELATINIZATION: The process in which starch granules,suspended in liquid, are heated; they begin to absorb liquidand swell in size.

GERM: The embryo of a cereal grain that is usually separatedfrom the endosperm during milling because it contains oilsthat accelerate the spoilage of flours and meals.

GLIADIN: A protein found in wheat flour. The part of glutenthat gives it extensibility and viscosity.

GLUCOSE: (1) A monosaccharide that occurs naturally infruits, some vegetables, and honey. Also known as dextrose.(2) A food additive used in confections.

GLUTEN: The protein component in wheat flour that buildsstructure and strength in baked goods. It is developed whenthe proteins glutenin and gliadin are moistened and agitated(kneaded). It provides the characteristic elasticity and exten-sibility of dough.

GLUTENIN: A protein found in wheat flour. The part ofgluten that gives it strength and elasticity.

GRAIN: (1) To crystallize. Fondant is agitated until it grains.(2) A seed or fruit of a cereal grass.

GUM ARABIC: A water-soluble vegetable gum obtained fromthe stems and branches of various species of acacia trees. Itis used to thicken, emulsify, and stabilize foods such ascandy and ice cream.

GUM PASTE: A white modeling substance made from gum

tragacanth or gelatin, water, glucose, and sugar.

GUM TRAGACANTH: A substance obtained from the AsianshrubAstragalus gummifierthat is used like gum arabic tothicken, emulsify, and stabilize foods.

HOMOGENIZE: To take ingredients and mix them togetherso they become the same in structure.

HUMECTANT: A type of food additive used to promotemoisture retention.


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10/11

HYDRATE: To combine ingredients with water.

HYDROGENATION: The process in which hydrogen atomsare added to an unsaturated fat molecule, making it partiallyor completely saturated at room temperature. Vegetable oilsare hydrogenated to create shortening.

HYDROLYZE: To chemically split one compound into othercompounds by taking up the elements of water. Cornstarchis hydrolyzed to produce corn syrup.

HYGROSCOPIC: Absorbing moisture from the air. Sugar andsalt are both hygroscopic ingredients.

INFECTION: Contamination by disease-causing agents, suchas bacteria, consumed via foods.

INFUSE: To flavor by allowing an aromatic to steep in thesubstance to be flavored. Infusions may be made either hotor cold.

INTOXICATION: Poisoning. A state of being tainted withtoxins, particularly those produced by microorganisms thathave infected food.

INVERT SUGAR: Sucrose that has been broken down(inverted) into a mix of dextrose (glucose) and levulose(fructose). It is sweeter, more soluble, and does not crystal-

lize as easily as sucrose.ITALIAN MERINGUE: A mixture of egg whites and sugarsyrup (140F/60C) whipped until shiny, fluffy, and cool.

KUCHEN: The German word for cake or pastry.

LACTIC ACID: An acid produced when lactose is fermented.It occurs naturally when milk is soured.

LACTOSE: The simple sugar found in milk.

LAMINATION: The technique of layering fat and doughthrough a process of rolling and folding to create alternatinglayers.

LEAN DOUGH: A yeast dough that does not contain fats orsugar.

LEAVENING: Raising or lightening by air, steam, or gas

(carbon dioxide). In baking, leavening occurs with yeast(organic), baking powder or baking soda (chemical), andsteam (physical/mechanical).

LECITHIN: A naturally occurring emulsifier found in eggyolks and legumes.

LEVULOSE: A simple sugar found in honey and fruits. It isalso known as fructose or fruit sugar.

LIQUEFIER: An ingredient that helps to loosen or liquefy adough or batter. Sugar, fats, and water or milk are examplesof liquefiers in baking.

MAILLARD REACTION: A complex browning reaction thatresults in the particular flavor and color of foods that do notcontain much sugar, such as bread. The reaction, which

involves carbohydrates and amino acids, is named after theFrench scientist who first discovered it.

MARZIPAN: A pliable dough of almonds and sugar.Marzipan may also be flavored by the addition of nuts otherthan almonds.

MASKING: Covering a cake with icing, frosting, or glaze.

MERINGUE: A white, frothy mass of beaten egg whites andsugar.

MIGNARDISES: An assortment of small, two-bite-size pas-tries.

MILK CHOCOLATE: Sweet chocolate to which whole and/orskim milk powder has been added. It must contain at least10 percent chocolate liquor by weight, although premiumbrands contain more.

MILLE-FEUILLE: French for a thousand leaves. This pastryis known in America as a napoleon.

MISE EN PLACE: French for put in place. The preparationand assembly of ingredients, pans, utensils, and platesor serving pieces needed for a particular dish or serviceperiod.

MIXING: The blending of ingredients.

MONOSACCHARIDE: A single or simple sugar and the basicbuilding block of sugars and starches. Fructose, glucose,levulose, and dextrose are examples of monosaccharides.

NAPP: The consistency of a liquid that will coat or coverthe back of a spoon.

ORGANIC LEAVENER: Yeast. A living organism operates byfermenting sugar to produce carbon dioxide gas, causingthe batter or dough to rise.

OVEN SPRING: The rapid initial rise of yeast doughs whenplaced in a hot oven. Heat accelerates the growth of theyeast, which produces more carbon dioxide gas and alsocauses this gas to expand. This continues until the doughreaches a temperature of 140F/60C.

OVERRUN: The increase in volume of ice cream caused bythe incorporation of air during the freezing process.

PAIN: The French word for bread.

PAR BAKE: To start the baking process, and to finish it at alater time.

PASTILLAGE: See Gum paste.

PATHOGEN: A disease-causing microorganism.

PATISSIER: The French word for pastry chef.

PECTIN: A gelling agent or thickener found in fruits, partic-ularly in apples, quince, and the skins of citrus fruits.

PETIT FOUR: A small bite-size cake, pastry, cookie, or con-fection. The term is French for small oven.

PH SCALE: A scale with values from 0 to 14 representingdegrees of acidity. A measurement of 7 is neutral, 0 is mostacidic, and 14 is most alkaline. Chemically, pH measures theconcentration and activity of the element hydrogen.

PHYSICAL LEAVENING: occurs when air and/or moisturethat is trapped during the mixing process expands as it isheated. This can occur through foaming, creaming, or lami-nation. Also known as mechanical leavening.

POLYSACCHARIDE: A complex carbohydrate such as a

starch, which consists of long chains of saccharides, amy-lose, and amylopectin.

POOLISH: A semiliquid starter dough with equal parts, byweight, of flour and water that are blended with yeast andallowed to ferment for 3 to 15 hours.

PRE-FERMENT: A piece of dough that is saved from the pre-vious days production to be used in the following daysdough.

G L O S S A R Y

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PRESHAPING: The gentle, first shaping of dough. Alsoknown as rounding.

PROOF: To allow yeast dough to rise.

PROTEASES: Enzymes that break down the collagen ingelatin and do not allow it to set or gel. This destructiveenzyme is in kiwi, pineapple, papaya, and other fruits.

RATIOS: A general formula of ingredients that can bevaried.

RECIPE: A specific formula of ingredients and amounts.

RETROGRADATION: The process in which starches high inamylose revert back to their insoluble form after they aregelatinized and then undergo freezing, refrigeration, oraging. This reaction causes changes in texture and appear-ance.

SACCHARIDE: A sugar molecule.

SANITATION: The preparation and distribution of food in aclean environment by healthy food workers.

SANITIZE: To kill pathogenic organisms chemically and/orby moist heat.

SCALE: To measure ingredients by weight.

SCALING:Portioning batter or dough according to weightor size.

SCORE: To make incisions into dough to allow steam toescape and the crust to expand. Also known as slashing ordocking.

SECONDARY FERMENTATION: See Bench rest.

SEED: (1) In chocolate tempering, a portion of temperedchocolate added to begin the formation of beta crystals. (2)Anything that acts as a surface to which sugar will adhereand crystallize.

SEED METHOD: A method of tempering chocolate.Chopped tempered chocolate, or seeds, are added to themelted chocolate and agitated until the desired temperatureis reached.

SEMISWEET CHOCOLATE: Chocolate that contains between15 and 35 percent chocolate liquor. Other than chocolateliquor, it contains added cocoa butter, sugar, vanilla orvanillin, and often lecithin.

SHORTENING AGENTS: Fats and oils. This term is derivedfrom their ability to split the long, elastic gluten strands thatcan toughen dough and batters. This tenderizing effect ren-ders the strands more susceptible to breaking or shorten-ing, resulting in a more tender and less dense crumb.

STABILIZER: An ingredient that helps to develop the solidstructure or framework of a finished product. Flour andeggs act as stabilizers in baking.

STARTER: A mixture of flour, liquid, and commercial or

wild yeast that is allowed to ferment. The starter must befed with flour and water to keep it active.

STEEP: To allow to infuse.

SUCROSE: Table sugar. A disaccharide extracted from sug-arcane or sugar beets and consisting of glucose and fructose

joined together in the molecule.

SUGAR BLOOM: The result of damp storage conditions inmilk or dark chocolate. When the moisture evaporates, a

white crust of sugar crystals is left behind. Like fat bloom, itis visually and texturally unappealing, but the chocolate isstill safe to eat.

SWISS MERINGUE: A mixture of stiffly beaten egg whitesand sugar heated over simmering water until it reaches140F/60C; it is then whipped until cool.

TABLING METHOD: A method of tempering chocolate. Apercentage of the chocolate is poured onto a marble slab

and agitated until it begins to set. It is then added back tothe remaining chocolate and stirred until it reaches theproper working temperature.

TART: A shallow, usually open-faced pastry shell with filling.

TARTLET: A small, single-serving tart.

TEMPER: (1) To melt, agitate, and cool chocolate to ensurethat it retains its smooth gloss, crisp snap feel, and creamytexture. (2) To heat gently and gradually, as in the process ofincorporating hot liquid into a liaison to gradually raise itstemperature.

TEXTURE: The interior grain or structure of a baked prod-uct as shown by a cut surface; the feeling of a substanceunder the fingers.

TORTE: The German word for cake. It can be multilayeredor a single, dense layer.

TOXIN: A naturally occurring poison, particularly those pro-duced by the metabolic activity of living organisms such asbacteria.

TRUFFLE: A ganache center that is usually coated withchocolate. Truffles are round and are named after the fun-gus that they resemble.

UNSWEETENED CHOCOLATE: Chocolate liquor withoutadded sugar or flavorings.

VI RUS : A type of pathogenic microorganism that can betransmitted in food. Viruses cause such illnesses as measles,chicken pox, infectious hepatitis, and colds.

WH IP : To beat an item, such as cream or egg whites, toincorporate air.

WH IT E CH OC OL AT E: True white chocolate, like that foundin Europe, is made from cocoa butter, milk, sugar, and fla-vorings, and it contains no chocolate liquor. In the UnitedStates, white confectionery coating, made with vegetable fatinstead of cocoa butter, is more readily available.


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