COMPANY PROFILE

COMPANY NAME AVS CREATIONS PVT LTD

ADDRESS HR- 36/A, 60 FOOTA ROAD SOHAN LAL

ARG PUL, PRAHAI, NEW DELHI-110044

TELEPHONE

FAX

E-MAIL GPCA.CA2004@GMAIL.COM

YEAR ESTD. 2012

OWNER MR. HARINDER SINGH & MS PUSHPA

SINGH

DIRECTORS MR. HARINDER SINGH & MS PUSHPA

SINGH

MARKET 100% EXPORT

IN HOUSE/FABRICATION/BOTH BOTH

FACTORY LAYOUT

1. BASEMENT

a. Fabric Testing Lab

b. Fabric Store

c. Accessories Store

d. General Store

e. Cutting/CAD/CAM

2. GROUND FLOOR

a. Reception

b. Conference Room

c. Personal Department

d. Human Resource

e. Production Floor

f. Finishing Department

g. Packing

h. Machine Maintenance Department

i. Washing Section

3. FIRST FLOOR

a. Production floor

b. Finishing

c. Packing

d. Quality control

4. SECOND FLOOR

a. Merchandising

b. Product development

c. R & D

d. Production plan & control

e. Sampling

f. Export documentation

g. EDP(Electronic Data Processing)

h. Accounts

i. Surplus fabric & accessory store

PRODUCT MIX

AVS Creations Pvt Ltd uses a wide array of fabrics to create distinct styles for its buyers.

From naturals (cotton, linen, silk, wool) to synthetics (viscose, polyester, polyamide) and

their blends, various fabrics are handled with the care they demand. Looking at the growing

buyer demands and the fast pace at which fashion moves today the firm has developed a

diverse and futuristic product mix.

HOW THEY CREATE

Work at AVS Creations Pvt Ltd happens very closely with the fashion forecast the design

team visit a no. of fashion forums, seminars and exhibitions like the premier vision, heimtex

etc. the designers are stationed in the US as well as UK who constantly feed with retail

information, retailing trends, market share analysis, brand evaluation and other retail

information.

Apart from the keen interest they take in making the products, they also try to induce what

India as a source can offer in terms of embroideries, hand work, light weight fabrics and the

various accents of our culture as an inspiration.

Their range has a wide array of fabric from natural - cotton, linen and wool, silk to synthetics

– viscose, polyester, polyamide, blends, microfibers and much more.

Apart from the constant feed of the fresh concepts in the product mix, there products also

have a distinct genre of style complimenting individual buyer needs. They were very closely

with the buyers design team and satisfy the certain buyer beyond expectations.

OTHER FACILITIES

In house comprehensive washing facilities for all kinds of washing, like enzyme, bleach,

caustic, acid wash, ice wash. Sand blast/faded effect and AZO free overdyeing in house.

MAIN PRODUCTS

High fashion and basic garments covering all segments:

Ladies: Dresses, Skirts, trousers, tops, blouses, scarves, jackets etc.

Kids: dresses, Skirts, trousers, tops, scarves, jackets, shorts and overall etc.

Men: shirts, shorts, pants, jackets etc.

SPECIALISATION

Denim wear, prints, embroideries, cut works appliqué and other intricate trims and

embellishments; basically all form of value addition, novelty washes and quick turnaround

time.

TYPES OF FABRIC

All types of Indian and imported woven fabrics viz. cotton viols, cambric, poplin, twill,

corduroy, dobby’s/jacquards, canvas, denim, viscose/rayon, linen, nylon/polyester, madras

plaids etc.

MAJOR OVERSEAS CUSTOMERS

USA: Aeropostle, American eagle outfitters, Anthropology, American Rug, Belk

International Inc., Benetton, Bonton, Club Monaco, CSI industries, DDP (France), Disney,

Explosion, Forth & town, GAP Men’s outerwear, GAP women denim division, GAP women

out let, Gymboree, INC men’s, Urban outfitters, Wool rich, Old navy, Karan scoot, Material

London, JMC, Mervyns.

EUROPE: J.Jill, Diesel, Calvin Klein, Top shop, Next, We. CANADA: Eatons, Hudson

Bay, Marmaxx, Sears Roebuck & Co. AUSTRALIA: Country Road.UK: Laura Ashley,

GVS, Freeman’s, Grattan

WORK FLOW

PRODUCT DEVEVELOPEMENT

BUYER

PRODUCT DEVELOPER

MERCHANT

SAMPLING

FABRIC

MARKER PLANNING

SPREADING

CUTTING

BUNDLING & TICKETING

RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

PRODUCTION

WASHING

FINISHING & PRESSING

PACKING & FINISING

This department is not buyer specific and work for all the buyers that company caters to. The

major role of department is to getting business for the company. Foundation of all other

departments, it

assists in converting their ideas into reality.

First interaction of the buyers is with PD department, but in some cases PD is directly done

by the merchandising department, there is showroom for meeting as well as presentation for

new development/line adoption to buyer, Samples/mocks developed are just for style and

design purpose and measurement do not play a major role. If buyer select any of their style

then further development will be done by PD department, once order is been booked further

follow up and communicating regarding that style will be the responsibility of the concerned

merchandiser.

CLASSIFICATION

INTERNAL DESIGNING

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

INTERNAL DESIGNING

OWN DESIGN LINE INSPIRATIONAL

EXTERNAL DESIGNING

TECH PACK

Design development done in house. Product development is done on the following basis:

EXTERNAL DESIGNING

MOCK OR SAMPLES WILL BE PREPARED FOR SELECTION

IF SELECTED THEN MEETING SAMPLES WILL BE MADE

COSTING AND NEGOTIATIONS

SALESMAN SAMPLE

GRADING

ORDER CONFIRMATION

PASSED BY MERCHANDISER THEN FOR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

IMPORTANT TERMINOLOGY

LINE ADOPTION WITH BASIC DETAILS

SAMPLES WILL BE MADE (2 Pcs)

APPROVAL/COMMENTS

BUYER SENTS A TECH PACK

THEN AGAIN PROTO SAMPLE MADE (3 Pcs)

FIT SAMPLES MADE (3Pcs)

APPROVAL/COMMENTS

BUYER WILL SENT FIT SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS

SIZE SET ARE MADE

APPROVAL

REVISE FIT OR SEALER SAMPLE IS MADE

ORDER CONFIRMATION

PCD (Plan cut date)

GPT (Garment package test)

FPT (Fabric package test)

CUT OFF DATE

GREEN TAG SAMPLE (means

production sample)

YELLOW TAG SAMPLE (means

sealer sample)

WINDOW DATE

PPM (Pre-production meeting)

Minutes of meeting (for any

important discussion related to any

particular issue)

TYPES OF SAMPLES

Proto sample

Costing meeting sample

Catalogue sample

Salesman sample

Fit sample

AD sample/photo shoot sample

Sealer sample

Preproduction sample

Reference sample

Resample TOP sample

Pilot run sample

Size set sample

Testing sample

Named above are the different

types of samples used by different

buyers

A TECH PACK CONTAINS

A pictorial representation of the

garment

Make up details

Sample size

Fabric type

Colour of fabric

Placements of buttons, zippers,

embroideries etc.

Garment description

Style number

Date sent

Date required

Supplier name

Season or phase

Fabric sample

MERCHANDISING

Merchandising or merchandise means commodities or goods dealt in by merchant. A

merchant is the person who acts as a link between a buyer and vendor; he is the one who is

central or integral part of a garment industry.

Merchant is a trader, an exporter or importer of a garment he is basically a employee of a

vendor’s company who is being responsible to the buyer and coordinate the full

manufacturing process of garment right from getting the order, approving the design,

ordering fabric, cutting, production and up to the shipment of the order i.e., he is the whole

sole of the company. Thus a merchant is a fulcrum of the organization, which involves

coordinating and follows up against tight schedules. He/she has to take care of quality,

delivery on time and simultaneously the price of garment and due to which the merchant is

liable for some percentage in the company profile.

MERCHANDISING ACTIVITIES

Receive detailed information from buyer like style details, fabric type, quality and

fiber content, trim requirements and quality, color details and various other details

like washing, printing, embroideries etc.

Make proto types, coordinate with research & development team, find fabric costing

and initial costing, send sample with price code and various other job works at

sampling stage etc.

Receive the PO and accepted L/C, amendments if any, confirm price, category,

delivery schedule and the required lead time etc.

Get the approval for samples and trims, prepare the time and action calendar, prepare

the fabric and trim indent.

Coordinate with R & D and I E for further detailed R & D reports; coordinate with

PPC for production planning, send order status to the buying office at every stage.

Call for the production meeting, prepare the production file and take care of budget at

each stage.

Another important task for merchandiser is lot approval so therefore from every roll and lot

swatch is taken firstly, it is observed in-house and then dispatched to buying house for

approvals and after approvals cutting go head will be given to the factory.

Denim approvals are taken in blanket pattern and approved samples will be used in packaging

Merchandiser has to do the entire above task for each style but before starting, merchant has

to do costing and plan the whole process from fabric ordering till ship cancel date and it is

called as Time and action calendar (T&A Calendar).

Before starting the costing for a style merchandiser should consider the following:

Fabric consumption

Labor Expenses (Calculated with

the help of SMV)

Thread Consumption

Trims and Accessories cost

Margin

Exchange Rate

Finishing

Packaging

CMP (Cut Make Pack)

Merchandiser prepares two T & A Calendar, one external for buyer and supplier which is

compactly prepared to get approvals from buyer and to receive ordered fabric and

trims/accessories to get on-time deliveries, from suppliers in house and other T & A is for

Internal working for prompt working for style.

Simultaneously merchandiser works with shipping department for banking vessel and other

mediums for transporting shipment till vessel and export documentation for preparing

necessary document for custom clearance and payments and also for importing fabrics and

accessory. At same time Account Department assist for payment

PROCESS FLOW OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

TECH PACK COMES FROM THE BUYER

INITIAL SAMPLING AND COSTING

GET ORDER FROM THE BUYER

ORDER CONFIRMATION

BUDGETING

INTERNAL

MATERIALINDENT(TRIMS DETAILS)

FABRIC PROGRAM(FABRIC DETAILS)

LOT APPROVAL

WITH BUYER

RE SAMPLE/PROTO TYPE APPROVAL

FIT SAMPLE APPROVAL

FPT APPROVAL PP SAMPLE

TOP SAMPLE APPROVAL

SIZE SET SAMPLE APPROVAL

SHIPMENT INSPECTION AND FINAL SHIPPING

GPT SAMPLE

MERCHANDISING FILE OF A STYLE INCLUDES

Order confirmation

Purchase order

1st lab dip/comment

2nd lab dip/comment

Approved colour standard

Important communications

Final GSS and BOM received

1st approval/comments

Revised GSS

2nd approval/comments

Revised GSS

Approved fit and comment

Size set samples

Sealer/comments

PP samples

Initial bulk against approved lab

dip

Lot comment and approved

Trim

Approved trim card

Costing

Budget

Test report (Trim, FPT, GPT)

Fusing

PRIMARY RESPONSIBILITIES OF MERCHANDISER

Chase for fabric/trims prior to PCD date

Size sets/PP/TOP samples-Monitoring and delivering

Coordinating buying agency QA Inspection

OC GENERATION

OC stands for ORDER CONFIRMATION, is an internal document and should be generated

by concerned merchandiser against PO within 24-48 hrs of order confirmation from buyer. It

is information as well as an alarm to all departments that company has received an order.

OC includes the following information:

Purchase Order (PO) Number

Delivery Date

Quantity

Fabric with tentative consumption

FOB

PURCHASE ORDER

PO is an external document which is issued by buyer in the name of Modelama Exports; it is

an evidence as well as support of order confirmed in the favour of company.

PO includes the following information-

Delivery Date

FOB

Ship cancel date

Destination

Ship mode

Terms of sale

Currency

L/C

Quantity

Size break up/color Break up

FABRIC PROGRAM (FP)

It is an internal document issued to fabric department, for sourcing the required fabric

required for the style.

MATERIAL INDENT

It is an internal document issued to Accessory Department, for sourcing the required

accessory and trims for style.

INTERNAL BUDGET

It is the internal document of the company which is a deviation between the actual costing

given to the buyer and company’s costing.

MODELAMA uses EDI software for downloading:

PO’s

DCPO’s

CD’s (for price tickets and shipment tickets)

Buyer directly sends PO on this software and the merchandisers further follow it accordingly.

Until company receives any written mail from buyer merchandisers will take no action.

PCD DATE MONITERING

PCD date should be followed by head right from the order confirmation, production manager

can refuse to take the file from concerned merchandiser if the PCD date slides drastically and

unit manager approach to management if concerned merchant tries to put pressure on unit,

but if a particular style has been taken over by unit head then the deliverance of style in terms

of quality/ deliver date has to meet by unit head.

PAYMENT TO VENDERS

It is a policy of the company that all the venders such as fabric/trim suppliers, embroidery job

workers, handwork contractors, finishing job workers would be done after shipping of a

particular order and the payment would be done only of the actual shipment quality.

COSTING

The most important function of the merchandising department is to calculate the total cost of

garment. It is the job of the merchandiser to estimate the initial cost correctly and also

negotiate the cost of production with the buyer before he sends his PO. The costing should be

such that it suits the buyer and also the export house. At the pre-production stage initial

costing is done so as to get an idea of the cost likely to be incurred. This cost includes raw

material cost; manufacturing cost, washing cost, make up cost, overhead expenses and the

margin of the company. After the buyer has placed his order and production sample is

approved then the final costing is done. The final costing uses fabric average from CAD, cost

of fabric & trims etc.

A cost sheet includes:

Buyer’s name

Style

Garment

Quantity

Budget

Fabric description

Total cost fabric includes:

Greige fabric cost

Brushing

Calendaring

Cartage

Dyeing/printing

Embroidery

Washing

Finishing

Shrinkage

Freight

Wastage

Average consumption

Total fabric consumption

Accessories cost includes:

Main label

Wash care label

Price ticket

Tags

Cartons

Poly bags

Stitching threads

Embroidery threads

Beads, sequins, elastic, mobilon tape

etc.

Total cost of a garment:

Fabric cost

Accessories cost

CM (cost of manufacturing)

Dyeing

Embroidery

Fabrication

Finishing

Packaging

Beads, sequins

Cost of company:

Margin

Overheads

Quota

Shipping cost

SAMPLING

A sample is a proto type of a product to be manufactured in future course of production. It is

also called mock-up of a product and is made to check the design effectiveness and fit of the

garment. Sampling is a set of procedure follows to produce various sample style. It contains

activities like making of pattern for proto type according to measurement of produce sample

with the help of machinery and getting buyers approval for the sample produce.

In an export house, the sampling department laced a vital role in the up lifting of a unit. This

department directly coordinates with the merchandising dept. and production dept. sampling

is done to see how the product will look like when produce in bulk and to check

discrepancies in the pattern are. Patterns are made according to the buyer specification.

STEPS OF SAMPLING:

MACHINE DETAILS IN SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

LINE

S.NO

.

M/C TYPE MANUFACTURER 1 2 3 4 5 TOTAL

1 S.N.L.S TYPICAL 9 15 14 15 3 56

2 S.N.L.S KING SPL 6 2 3 0 2 13

3 S.N.L.S BROTHER 11 3 0 0 0 14

4 S.N.L.S KATT SPL 0 0 0 0 3 3

PROTO TYPE SAMPLE MADE

FIT SAMPLE MADE

PP SAMPLE MADE

TOP SAMPLE MADE

SIZE SET MADE

SHIPMENT SAMPLE MADE

5 D.N.L.S HIGH LEAD 0 1 0 0 1 2

6 D.N.L.S PEGASUS 0 0 0 0 1 1

7 O/L 3 TOYOTA 0 0 0 0 1 1

8 O/L 3 TYPICAL 0 0 1 3 0 4

9 O/L 5 BROTHER 0 1 0 0 0 1

10 O/L 5 TYPICAL 0 0 0 1 0 1

11 KANSAI 0 0 0 0 3 3

12 3 NEEDLE C.S 0 0 0 1 0 1

13 BARTACK BROTHER 0 0 0 0 1 1

14 F.O.A 0 0 0 0 1 1

15 EMBRODIERY FRIEND 0 0 7 0 0 7

16 SPL M/C GOLDEN WHEEL 0 0 1 0 0 1

17 SPL M/C TREASURE 0 0 1 0 0 1

18 MAINTAINENCE 0 3 0 1 0 4

TOTAL 26 25 27 21 16 115

FUNCTIONS

Two main functions of sampling department are:

1. To cater the buyer

2. New development

1. TO CATER THE BUYER

In this method first a Tack-Pack or a GSS (Garment specification sheet) is given by the buyer

and then on the basis of this GSS patterns are made by the pattern master. With the help of

these patterns fabric average is calculated and then by adding other cost also costing is send

to the buyer. On the basis of this costing buyer places an order. Once the order is placed the

sampling department starts producing samples. These samples are then sending to the buyer

through merchandiser for his approval as per the sequence shown in the above flow chart.

2. NEW DEVELOPMENT

In this method the designer of the company develops a new design. Before developing a new

design forecasting is done. By this forecasting we come to know that which color,

embroidery, type of fabric, silhouette, texture etc. will be like by the fabric in upcoming

season. This design is also according to the country and season. This new design is then send

to the buyer and if buyer likes the design, he may place an order of the same design or with

some modification in the new design. Once the order is placed by the buyer, the sampling

department starts producing samples. These samples are sending to the buyer in a particular

sequence as shown in the above flow chart.

FABRIC SOURCING

Sourcing deals with getting information about material from different sources and then

selecting the best material which suits over budget and buyer’s specification.

Fabric sourcing means souring the right kind of fabric which fulfils the buyer’s

specifications. Fabric sourcing department is quite important as more than 90% of garment is

fabric and approximately 70% cost of garment is due to the fabric.

Selecting the right quality of fabric as per the buyer’s specification otherwise it may lead to

cancellation or rejection of the whole order given by the buyer. The fabric sourcing

department gets the fabric sample from the vendors. These samples are tested before sending

to buyer for approval. After the buyer approves the sample, the fabric is ordered for bulk

production.

TYPES OF FABRIC

1. KNITTED FABRIC

2. WOVEN FABRIC

These two kinds of fabric can be further classified as:

Yarn dyed fabric

Solid dyed fabric

Printed fabric

YARN DYED FABRIC

To impart color in a fabric, it is either died after weaving or first dyeing of the yarn is done

and then interlacement of these yarn results in a coloured fabric.

The fabric in which we dyed the yarn first and then weave the fabric is called yarn dyed

fabric. The yarn dyed fabric are generally in the form of checks, stripes etc.

SOLID DYED FABRIC

Solid dyed fabrics are the fabrics which are first manufactured on the loom and thereafter

dyed but the coloring agent can’t be applied directly to the griege fabric. To apply color

griege fabric is first processed through different processes like de-sizing, bleaching etc. these

processes are done so as to make the fabric appropriate for dyeing.

PRINTED FABRIC

Printed fabric are the fabrics which obtained by printing a bleached fabric/dyed fabric or

these fabrics are the fabrics having different or varied print in which a base fabric either dyed

fabric or bleached fabric is printed by various printing technology.

Steps followed for fabric purchasing:

Market trends enquiry

Vendors-folders in-house swatches

Display to buyers

After approval from the buyer swatch is send for the sampling yardage (5-10 meter of

fabric)

Documents used in sourcing department: FP (Fabric Program)

Fabric description

Accessories

Plan Cut Date

Delivery Date

PROCESS OF GENERATING FABRIC PROGRAM

FPO (Fabric Purchase Order)

Fabric description

Supplier name

Date of PO

Delivery date

Rate

Transportations (Logistic)

Fabric Purchase Order number

Payment

Cancel date

FPO also tells about the type/quality of fabric whether it is yarn dyed, dyed, printed, or greige

fabric.

JPO (Job Process Order)

a. Processor’s name

b. Date of PO

c. Delivery Date

d. Fabric description

e. Logistic

f. Rate

ORDER CONFIRMATION

TENTATIVE AVERAGE

ORDER ACCORDING TO THE TENTATIVE ORDER PIECES

FIRST WORKING

FINAL AVERAGE

FABRIC PROGRAM

g. JPO no.

JPO also gives information about the process to be done on the fabric like embroidery,

dyeing, printing etc.

SUPPLIERS OF MODELAMA EXPORT HOUSE

1. Yarn dyed- South India, Arvind, Imported

2. Knits- Ludhiana, Delhi

3. Cotton- All around India

4. Wool- Imported, Amritsar, Ludhiana, Panipat

5. Silk/Poly/Viscose- Banaras, Bangalore, Surat, Ahmedabad, Mumbai

6. Linen- Indian Rayon, Imported

7. Velvets/Jacquard- Panipat

8. Greige- Coimbatore, Salem, Erode, Bhiwandi (Mumbai)

9. Leno/Dobby/Textured- Bhiwandi, South India

10. Processing- Bhilwara, Panipat, Faridabad, Jaipur, Ahmedabad, Mumbai

11. Embroidery- Manesar, Mumbai, Amritsar

FABRIC STORE

Fabric storehouse is the actual area where the fabric for production is receive or dispatched

for processing. Beside storage the fabric store department is also responsible for the

inspection of the goods receive by it.

PROCESS FLOW OF FABRIC STORE

STORAGE

Rack system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in the racks in two areas:

FABRIC DISPATCHED FROM SUPPLIER

FABRIC RECEIVING

GRIEGE FABRIC

SEND IT FOR PROCESSING

BACK TO INHOUSE AFTER DYEING OR PRINTING

SOLID/YARNDYED/

PRINTED

100% CHECKING (4 POINT SYSTEM)

METER CHECKING BY SECURITY GUARDS

LOT MAKING AND SEND IT TO THE MRCHANDISING

QUALITY CHECKING FOR DEFECTS

KEPT IN STORE

1. Checked fabric

2. Unchecked fabric

They are further segregated on the basis of style no. and lot wise. The fabric is put in rack

with the help of Fork Lift and pallets. Such a systematic maintenance of the store makes it

easy to make the fabric whenever needed in future.

ORDER PROCESSING AND FABRIC IN-HOUSE:

The merchant receives the purchase order from the buyer. On the basis of this purchase order,

the fabric sourcer prepares a ‘requisition’ for the fabric as per the demands of the buyers and

raises it to the fabric vendors in the market. The best deal and the vendor are finalized and the

order is placed. The factory may send the yarn from the store to the fabricators for fabric

production, buy greige for dyeing or directly order the processed fabric to the vendors. Once

the fabrics development receives the approval for the fabric, the vendor sends it in form of

lots within the specified time period and the fabric is made in house in the fabric store. About

5% extra goods are supplied by the vendor.

The fabric via transport trucks comes in various packages like rolls, book fold, open width

etc. The packages are unloaded on conveyor belts (500 kg capacity) with take them to the

weighing machine. Each consignment comes in with an invoice having details like quantity,

colour, GSM, and weight. The goods are weighed and other details are reconfirmed before

they are store.

FLOW FOR ORDER PROCESSIG:

FABRIC

INSPECTION

For the purpose of inspection of fabric, four

point system is followed which allots

different points for different lengths of

RECEIVE PO FROM MERCHANDISER

PREPARE A FABRIC REQUISITION

RAISE THE REQUISITION TO VENDORS

SOURCE OUT THE GOODS

FINALIZE THE VENDORS

PLACE THE ORDER

RECIEVE SHADE APPROVAL

SEND GOODS FOR DYEING

RECEIVE DYED GOODS

SEND YARDAGE INTERNAL TESTING

SUBMIT FOR BUYER'S APPROVAL FOR COLOR AND QUALITY

READY FOR ISSUE

BULK FABRIC IN-HOUSE

SEND LAB DIPS FOR SHADE APPROVALBY THE BUYER

LAB DIPS PREPARED AT DYEING UNIT IN NEAREST

SEND FOR REDYEING, WASHING ETC

APPROVED

RE-APPROVED

SUBMIT FOR APPROVAL TO

LAB TESTING

FIRST LOT IN-HOUSE

defects. The defects are marked by different stickers as shown in the following table:

POINTS LENGTH OF DEFECT COLOR OF STICKER

1 0 to 6” Green

2 3” to 6” Yellow

3 6” to 9” Blue

4 9” to above Arrow sticker

Total points per 100 square yard are calculated. Different types of fabrics have different

passing points. They are as follows:

Grey Fabric – 20 points / 100m

Power loom fabric 44 points / 100m

Imported / mill made fabric – 25 points / 100m

The inspection is carried out manually. The following is the infrastructure for inspection.

12 tables to check the fabric manually with the provision or 4 tube lights horizontal to

the table.

Every defect encountered is marked with an arrow sticker. A fabric checking report is filled

which gives the details about the defects found. After the checking is done the fabric is

repacked in large poly bags and graded according to the standards set by the company. The

grades are as follows-

‘A’ CLASS No defects, fabric can be used.

‘B’/ MENDED CLASS Defects are present but under acceptance

level, can be mended to first class by

subsequent processing, fabric to be cut with

care.

‘C’ CLASS Fabric to be negotiated with supplier.

‘D’ CLASS Rejected, defects are present beyond

acceptance level, fabric to be not used.

NOTE:

1. Lots will be prepared.

2. Checking as per the norms of buyer.

3. In case there is ‘C’ and ‘D’ category in passed lot, will rechecked again and

rechecking report need to be made.

4. Lab report along with fabric checking report will be given to fabric merchant as well

as merchandiser.

5. No fabric issue to cutting without QA sign.

6. Knit fabric check in Kilograms.

7. Formula used = 3600*Defects points

Length*width

MACHINES IN FABRIC DEPARTMENT

FABRIC CHECKING MACHINE: This machine is used for any type of fabric rolled,

checking defects and check fabric length and width. Mostly used for grey fabric.

FOLDING MACHINE: This machine is used for folding the fabric in one meter.

DOCUMENTATION

Fabric store has huge documentation work as well. Bar coding has lent a helping hand and

eased the task of record keeping. Nevertheless, following records are also manually

maintained:

1. Stock register for information about the stock present in the store at a given rate.

2. Receiving register for information like fabric receive from where, when and in how

much quantity.

3. Issuing register for information regarding the fabric issued to the dyeing mills.

4. Checking register for information about the rolls inspected, GSM, tube width, faults

and no. of rolls approved and passed. 5. GSM recorded register for GSM of all the fabric rolls is stored in the house along with

the swatches.

6. Fabrics checking report, which states the type and no. of defects and weather the roll

is rejected or pass.

7. Pending checking status report maintained on daily basis for information regarding

the rolls that are pending for checking.

TESTING LAB

Garments are made from fabric with the help of sewing threads and a no. of accessories like

button; laces, ribbons etc. are sewn on them. All these things used to construct a garment

have uncertain characteristics i.e. how they will behave in conditions like washing, sunlight,

heat etc. when used by the customer. Any undesirable changes in the fabric, thread or the

trims would detract the aesthetic value of the garment and decrease its utility before time.

Thus it became necessary to check or test the characteristics of all these components under

conditions to which they are susceptible to change or get damaged. Fabric and trims are

tested for their quality, durability, colour fastness, dimensional stability and physical know

how. Goods are produced from the suppliers only when the lab tests results confirm that they

comply with the standards or requirements of the buyers.

The buyers are also specific about the test method that has to be followed. AATCCC and

ASTM are two American standards that are used in the lab. AATCC (American Association

of Textile Chemists and Colourists) standards are given primarily for all colour fastness and

dimensional stability. ASTM (American Standard for Testing Materials) covers all the

physical tests.

ISO (International Standard Organization) is a European standard, which covers the colour

fastness tests and the dimensional stability tests.

Modelama has its own in-house fabric testing laboratory equipped with all sophisticated

instruments as per AATCC and ISO standards where tests on fabric, garment and trims are

conducted. There are separate dry, wet and chemical testing areas in the lab along with a dark

room for colour matching.

BASIC WORK FLOW

Testing lab receives the fabric to be tested along with a test request form either from the

fabric sourcing department or the fabric store (or garment from quality

assurance/merchandising departments). This form contains all the details like buyer name,

style, sample description and vendor. A swatch of the fabric to be tested is passed on the form

and tests to be conducted are specified. Depending on the no. and type of tests to be carried,

fabric yardages are sent to the lab (almost 1⁄2 mtr to 2 mtr)

Testing is done on the behest of buyer and it is the buyer who specifies the test to be

conducted. Fabric sourcing department coordinates the communication and testing activities.

Each buyer has its standard acceptance levels in testing. He may require testing to be done at

a specified testing laboratory or one nominated by the buyer itself.

Once the fabric is received for testing, it is allowed to relaxed, condition and acclimatizes to

the standard temperature and humidity maintained in the laboratory for at least 2-4 hrs. a

variety of test are conducted on the condition samples but some of the tests like that of

washing, crocking, rubbing, dimensional stability, count, fabric construction, GSM, content

etc. are necessarily carried out for every fabric/garment.

ACCESSORIES STORE

Accessories store as the name suggests is a department, which acts as a storehouse for

accessories. It is the place where all the accessories required in an export house, are stored.

Right from sewing threads, needles to packaging material like poly bags and taps etc. all are

stored in the accessories store.

The merchandiser as per buyer specifications orders the purchase dept. to buy the accessories

that are used in a particular style of that buyer. Merchandiser prepares a swatch card

containing all the accessories and their quantity required in a cycle. These accessories used in

the swatch card are as per the quality and colour mentioned and approve by the buyer. The

purchase dept. with the help of swatch card prepared by the merchandiser purchases the

required quantity of accessories. The accessories are purchased 10-15% extra then the

required, as the wastage in case of accessories is more. The receiving dept. then receives

these accessories from the vendors and then checking and testing of these accessories are

done. They are checked for quality and colour. The accessories like buttons are tested with

the help of button snap tester. After all the accessories are checked and tested as per buyer’s

specifications then an accessories approval card is prepared.

After the accessories are received they are stored in the accessory store. The accessories are

stored in different racks. The accessories of a single buyer are stored in one rack but the

different accessories are stored separately from each other in the same rack. The accessories

store also houses the stationary required in the export house.

Now, whenever the production starts the accessories required in production are issued to the

production dept. through an internal channel. A stock register is used for maintaining records.

Thus an accessory store function as a store house for accessories where all the accessories are

assembled and kept and also issued to the sampling and production dept. for the garment

manufacture.

WORK FLOW OF ACCESSORIES STORE

ACCESSORIES/TERMS ORDERING AND THEIR APPROVAL

Thread ordering and approval: For ordering threads, merchandiser has to match the

color standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk fabric with the shade card of the

suppliers company. If not matched then lab dip for thread will be done. Thread

approval is taken through thread runs. Thread run means running of different thread

options matching with the color standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk fabric

used for production.

Button ordering and approval: For ordering button, its line, color, finish and quality

should be matched with color standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk fabric.

Zipper ordering and approval: For ordering button, its line, color, finish and quality

should be matched with color standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk fabric.

Hanger and sizes ordering and approval: These are ordered according to the

buyer’s sizes.

Poly bag and carton ordering and approval:Poly bags are ordered according to the

length, width and height of the garment and cartons are ordered as mentioned in PO

Merchandiser prepares swatch card

Swatch card is send to the purchase department

Accessories purchased by purchase department

Accessories recieved by recieving department

Testing of accessories is done

Storing of accessories in accessory store

Issuing accessories to the sampling and production

and DCPO

Labels ordering and approval:As labels are of different types, so it should be

ordered according to buyers requirement only wash care label is ordered after G.P.T.

Zipper ordering and approval:For ordering zippers, its teeth width, tapes quality

and colour and important elements should be matched with quality and colour

standard or initial bulk fabric.

Other accessory ordering and approval:Other accessory like fusing, twill tapes

shoulder pads, price tickets and hang tags ordered as other are done.

RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

R&D and IE are two separate departments working for the same aim i.e. increasing the

production of a company with minimizing the cost.

Various tasks performed are:

To check that product is production feasible or not before sending final approval to

buyer.

Line balancing.

Calculating thread consumption.

Time study.

Creating operation breakdown.

Find out SMV.

No. of machine.

Helpers required.

Sketching layouts for production.

To find out the efficiency of the individual operator and line.

Calculating daily efficiency of the unit.

Co-ordination with PPC for improving the efficiency.

Fix the target production.

Decide the type of machine and work aids attachment required for particular

operation.

Machine breakdown.

To monitor hourly production.

Hourly line tracking status.

R&D lends hands in the following:

SMV (Standard Minute Value) per operation and garment

Thread consumption

Operation breakdown/Operation bulletin (OB)

Making production feasible, viable as well as friendly

Saving cost

Any garment or order received through specimen or GSS is send to R & D department. The

garment or GSS is then analysing by the expert team to see the viability of the order and also

to advice ways of executing the order. An operation bulletin is prepared on the basis of which

SMV is calculated by using GSD (Garment Sewing Data).

PROCESS FLOW OF IE DEPARTMENT

Product Friendly Solution

Construction Enquiry-Sampling Department

Receiving sketch/garment from market

Product Friendly Solution

IE DepartmentR & D Analysis & Feedback

Capacity Check Analysis & Feedback

Procure from MaintenanceLine Setting According to IE Reports

M/C & Work Aid Requirement to Maintenance

Prepare Workstation Layout

Factory IE Discuss & Collects

Update SMV & Finalize report

Prepare R & D ReportPrepare operation bulletin

Total RoomDepth Customized Folders (Innovate)

In Depth Study of Style & Construction

Thread OrderReceive Red Tag Sample

Industrial engineering department working is divided floor wise. All the floors of the 105,106

have individual IE person sitting on the each floors. Working of the IE department is to

follow up the OB (operational bulletin) and setting up of the line according to the OB. IE

department creates the OB with the use of the GSD (general sewing data).

MACHINE MAINTENANCE

Apart from having quality system and the best practices, ‘machine maintenance’ is also a

very important area to get ‘quality’ products. Unacceptable quality of products often results

from ill- maintained machine. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed

toward reduced downtime and increase life respectively proper machine maintenance is also

necessary to avoid causalities at the floor. The function of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

includes:

Care of the fitting

Adjusting settings

Oil changing

Out ward/inward reports

Machine configuration charts

Needle movement chart

Laser stock

Needle log cards

The fabric used the percentage of needle time, the speed of machine and operator handling

are the factors, which determine how often the machine requires cleanings. On the floor, the

maintenance shop has a maintenance card for each machine, listing the data a mechanic

serviced the machine, who serviced it, what was done to it and why. A series of similar

repairs occurring sooner than normal would signal maintenance that something is radically

wrong with the machine or that the machine is being misused by the operator and the matter

is checked out immediately. The general procedure for preventive maintenance of sewing

machines involves the following steps:

Remove the face plate and clean it.

Remove the needle plate clean the feed dog.

Remove the belt guard and clean it.

Adjust the V- Belt tension.

Tight the (Z) stand and thread stand.

Check the oil lubricating pipe, if any damage replaces it.

Check all the timings and adjust it.

Control panel cleaning:

Clean the PC Board with soft brush. Do not clean with blow air or use suction device.

Clean the synchronizer properly.

Keep the sewing table clean.

Do not allow anyone to put the sticker on the table.

The maintenance schedule is carried out floor wise. Every production floor is provided with a

team of two mechanics, one assistance and one helper, which take care of the day to day

maintenance, break downs and settings of the machine. Whenever there is a breakdown of the

machine on the floor it is immediately shifted to the maintenance department and the same is

replaced with new machine from the stock so that production is not disrupted. Oil checking is

done on weekly basis and changing of the oil and servicing of the machines is done every

three months.

A workshop in this department caters to the need of new making new folders, guides and

modifying other attachments as developed by the R & D department for better production. It

is also the ‘operation theatre’ for the machines.

Machine maintenance also carries the purchase and receiving activities. Its purchase action

has track of every inventory including a needle present in the factory stock and procures new

inventory whenever needed. Stock register is maintained with discipline.

CAD DEPARTMENT

CAD stands for Computer Aided Design. It is one of the most important departments of

export house. This department acts as a “Service Department” for merchandising, sampling

and cutting department. The working of these three department is highly depends upon CAD

department. Without CAD it is very difficult for these departments to move ahead.

CAD system involves any type of design activities which use of computer to develop analyse

or modify any engineering or garment design.

PROCESS FLOW OF CAD

REQUIREMENT OF CAD

For Merchandising Department:

Costing- CAD gives the costing to merchandising dept. means it gives the average

fabric consumed per garment. It is calculating by placing the pattern pieces of two

medium size garments in the fabric. Costing depends upon type of fabric and buyer

requirement.

Fabric order booking- After calculating the average fabric consumed per garment,

calculation for the total fabric required is done accordingly. To the no. of garments to

be manufactured. After this calculation order is placed.

Tracing pattern for buyer- CAD provides a tracing paper to merchandising dept.

which is further delivered to the buyer. For sampling department:

PATTERN MAKING

DIGITIZING

STYLE/PATTERN DESCRIPTION

ALTERATION

CUT ORDER PLANNING

COSTING AND FABRIC ORDER

MARKER MAKING

PRINTING FOR CUTTING

Pattern digitizing- In CAD, the pattern pieces are digitizing and a record of these

pattern is maintained for further correspondence.

Alterations- If any alteration is required in the sample, according to the buyer, then it

is done in CAD.

Grading- In CAD, different sizes such as XS, S, L and XL are made from medium

size by increasing or decreasing the garment dimension in equal proportion to make a

sampling “size-set”. For cutting department:

Marker- An efficient cutting marker is provided to the cutting department by the

CAD for production.

APPLICATION OF CAD:

Offered significant reduction in lead times.

Reduction in labour costs for generating new styles & modifying existing ones.

Achieving significant reductions in fabric utilization.

Blocks images stored in computer.

Grading technique replaced by expert system. The grading technique, developed by

grades over many years in the form of tables, has been entered in to the computer for

use in a primitive expert system, so that grading is now auto matched.

Percentage wasted computed and displayed for each layout.

Fabric pattern constraints incorporate in the program.

Cutters replaced by CAD/CAM.

Lay markers deskilled.

Wages reduced.

As the operator starts making the marker he/she can be supplied with a computed ratio

of cloth wasted.

MARKER MAKING

A marker is a diagram of precise arrangement of pattern pieces for the sizes of specific style

that are to be cut from a single spread.

Marker making is a process of developing a jigsaw diagram which is superimposed on the top

of a ground of a superimposed plies as a guide for cutting these plies.

It determines the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specific style fabric and

distribution sizes.

Cut order planning determines:

How many markers are needed?

How many of each size should be in each marker and the number of plies that will be

cut from each marker?

EFFICIENCY OF MARKER PLANNING

The marker plan measures the efficiency by the following formula:

Efficiency = Area of the pattern pieces*100

Total

Since the reduction in fabric cost is an important factor so the company should try and

discover the area for improvement in marker efficiency.

WAYS TO MAKE MARKER MOST EFFICIENT

PATTERN ENGINEERINGAn examination of the seams location to ensure the possible

placement of pattern in marker

HEMS ALTERATION ALLOWANCESMeans dividing a large panel awkwardly shaped

pattern into two pieces to better accommodate in the marker

THE SELECTION OF FABRIC WIDTHThe best width depends among other factor on

the cost of various fabric width/square meter, the typical number of sizes in a marker, the

potential pattern engineering changes at various width and the marker efficiency achieve.

WORK FLOW OF SPREADING AND CUTTING

SPREADING

Spreading is the process of smooth layering of fabrics in superimposed layers of specified

length. After fabric is received it is issued to spreading department for further processing.

Spreading is done with the type of fabric, print of fabric and marker issued by the CAD dept.

PROCESS FLOW OF SPREADING:

SPREADING

LAYERING

CUTTING MANNUAL/AUTOMATIC

TICKETING

FUSING

CHECKING

BUNDLING

TRANSFER TO PRODUCTION

Points to be considered during spreading process:

Ply alignment – Ply alignment can be straight edge or centred edge.

Ply tension – Tight spread and slack spread should avoid during the spreading

process otherwise pattern can undersized or oversized respectively. Tight edge spread

can be removing by putting notches or cutting the tight edge.

Grain alignment – It should always consider during spreading process.

Static charge – In spreading it refers to the electric charge generate during spreading.

Surface direction – It means the pile direction or the design direction of the fabric

FABRIC IS LOADED ON SPREADING MACHINE

PERFORATED PAPER IS SPREAD ON SPREADING TABLE

VACCUME IS TURN-ON IN THE SPREADING TABLE

AUTOMATIC/MANNUAL SPREADING IS DONE

PROPER TENTION IS MAINTAINED WHILE

WHEN FINISHED, VACCUM IS TURNED OFF

MARKER IS SPREDA OVER IT AND PASTED BY TAPE

AIR FLOW IS GIVEN FROM BOTTOM

TRANSFERED TO CUTTING TABLE

which is to be spread. It is very important factor in various types of spreading.

Damage placement – Efficiency measured by economy with which damages are

removed. Fabric like lycra, spandex, wool blends are relaxed for 10 to 12 hrs, prior to

spreading.

CUTTING

Cutting means to separate out different garment process from the lay of fabric with the help

of cutting template and devices. It is done to get required shape in different no. or as a whole

to make a complete product. The first stage in the manufacture of garments is the cutting of

material into the necessary pattern shapes. These patterns are then joined to form a garment

when large amount of garment style has to be cut, a lay is created, which consist of many

plies of fabric spread one above the other. Now all the pattern pieces for all sizes are cut from

this lay. The main objective of the cutting dept. is the cutting of garment parts accurately and

economically and in sufficient value to keep the sewing room supplied with work.

Objectives:

To maintain the quality of the cut components.

To cut the raw material in required shape and quality.

Availability of cut components on time.

Types of cutting devices:

5 fusing machine

16 straight knife

6 edge cutters

2 computer aided machines

4 spreader

1 round knife

BASIC WORK FLOW

Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production

manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount

of styles, from the spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the following

details:

1. Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only) and other trims

averages.

2. Measurement sheet.

3. Design worksheet of the garment.

4. Purchase order.

5. Fabric requisition sheet.

6. CAD mini marker.

7. Marker planning length of lay etc. size ratio and colours in which the patterns are to

be cut.

Along with this an approved sample and patterns of all sizes or the marker are also sent. The

cutting department checks the fabric status in the store and acquires it whenever the

production manager sends the cut order. Firstly 2-3 samples are cut from the pattern (medium

size) send by the CAD room to check for any amendments in pattern. These activities are

coordinate by the R&D dept. When the patterns are amended the production manager gets a

size set cut and these pieces are stitches and QC on the floor locates any discrepancies related

to pattern in the stitched and the QC on the floor locates any discrepancies related to pattern

in the stitched garments. Report with comments for alternation in the patterns is sent if

needed and the pattern master allocated to that style corrects the patterns accordingly. The

marker planning is also done afresh to incorporate the changes. Only when the production

manager is sure of the waist pattern, he will issue the job order for bulk cutting.

All the fabric is not cut at one go. Rather it is cut as and when required by the production

department against the job order. The cutting department calculates the fabric quantity

required the no. of pieces mentioned in job card using the average given by the CAD dept.

about 5% is cut more than required to make up for defective pieces or wastage for

production.

CUTTING AVERAGE

The cutting department duties are not limited to mare cutting of the fabric. It is responsible

for keeping control over the total consumption (grams) of fabric per garment piece cut this

consumption is more specifically defined in terms of cutting average. During marker

planning, the CAD rule sends theoretical consumption of fabric as per its marker, which is

calculated as following:

CUTTING AVERAGE = Area of one piece in the marker (cm square) * GSM of the fabric

10,000

Where,

AREA OF ONE PIECE = length of the fabric

Total no. of pieces in the marker

Cutting average is used to determine the cost of raw material that is fabric for each garment.

Hence it is very important that it is maintained during the bulk cutting also. The cutting

manager finds out his actual cutting average before the bulk cutting and tries to keep it as

close as possible to the average predicted by the CAD.

CUTTING SUB DEPARTMENTS

1. Layering and spreading

2. Fusing area

3. Cutting

4. QA department

5. Bundling and ticketing

TICKETING

Once the pattern pieces are cut by the cutting machine, they are then ticketed. Cut

components are grouped together as per their sizes and are taken to the checking table. Here

the cut components are inspected for any error. It is very important to take care that pieces cut

from two different bolts of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there bolt-to-

bolt variation in color shade.

FUSING

Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated from

the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the

components to be fused. The component along with the cut fusing material are kept between

to paper sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine by means of temperature

and pressure fusing takes place at particular speed and for a particular time. The pack comes

out at the other end on conveyors and the pieces are removed and re- bundled.

Parameters affecting the fusing process:

Pressure- Pressure applied to the fabric should be adequate so that even contact

between the interlining and outer cloth takes place and uniform heat is supplied to the

adhesive. Pressure should be adequate for the correct penetration of resin among the

fibres of fabric.

Temperature-It is another important parameter. It depends upon the type of resin

used in fusing process. It should be high enough to change the dry thermoplastic resin

into a molten state so that it can flow properly between the fabrics. If temperature is

low it gives proper flow of resin and if it is high it gives too much flow of resin and

the resin will come out.

Time- Time should also be adequate along with temperature and pressure. It should

be long enough so that melting and penetration of resin among the fibres of fabric can

takes place.

Types of fusing used in fusing:

Woven fusing

Non-woven fusing

Knitted fusing

CHECKING

The ticked panels are now sending to the checking area for inspection of every individual

piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, in appropriate

size, incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cuts, shade variation etc. that are not

within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component

checking report is filled for the total quantity cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces

are sent back and equal no. of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed

with the same no. as the rejected ones. Other mend able faults are marked with an alteration

sticker and passed on. These will be spotted out during garment finishing or washing.

BUNDLING

The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using

ties. The size of bundle depends upon the requirements of the production plant. Each bundle

will contain pieces of same style and same size only. These pieces are stored in racks made

beneath the cutting table. The cutting department issues the amount required by the

production dept. as and when ask for. The cut component may be issued in installment or all

at once as the need of the production dept. against the job order.

PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL

PPC stands for Production Planning and Control. PPC controls the planning and give the

guidance from fabric to shipment. The main of PPC is to create the deadlines for each process

and coordinate with various departments. The PPC department receives the required

information such as style no./item description, fabric type and projected quantity from the PD

team. PPC team will send GSS along with the necessary details to the dept. or the R & D

report to be made. Based on the R & D report the construction feasibility and cost analysis of

the style will be done by the PPC department. The PPC dept. prepares a monthly capacity

budget for each production unit.

ROLE OF PPC

Feasibility study- Based upon

a. Type of machine

b. No. of machine

c. No. of process involved

d. Fabric type

e. Order quantity

Capacity study- Based upon

a. Availability study

b. Planned hours

c. Machinery capacity

d. Expect absenteeism and turn over

e. Planned efficiency

Budget planning- Based upon

a. Committed delivery date

b. Order quantity

Line planning- Based upon

a. SMV of the style

b. Efficiency of the operator

c. Efficiency of the line

d. No. of lines in the unit

Unit efficiency– Based upon

a. No. of lines

b. Lines efficiency

c. Production dates

Create deadlines- Create deadline for each process.

Periodic orders-

a. Order quantity

b. Style and fabric type

c. No. of process involved

d. Delivery date

Creating good relationship- Building the good relationships among the departments for

smooth process flow.

Receiving reports- Daily status report will be sent to the PPC by all dept. from the formats

which are created by PPC.

REPORTS GENERATED UNDER PPC DEPARTMENT

I. On time shipment report-

a. Cut to ship

b. Order to ship

II. Efficiency report

III. Factory cost report

IV. PCD report

V. Fabric performance report

SEWING DEPARTMENT

The basic aim of an export house is to deliver value satisfaction of the customer at the profit

level.

Production is an act of producing a product i.e., quantity obtained by multiplying two

quantities together by making use of available resources.

To deliver quality with the quantity the ratio between input resources or raw material &

output goods and services is known as productivity are reciprocally related to each other.

Therefore an increase in production leads to fall in the cost per unit & rise in profit.

The production department is spread in two floors, Ground floor and the First Floor; both the

floors are specialized for their quality product. Ground Floor for basic garments and First

Floor is for jackets, blazers or other Heavy garments. Both floors have a common cutting

dept. so all the sizes of bundles are received from there only.

Production floor follows Assembly Line system. Following are steps to start a

production line:

To study the production file.

To study operation bulletin and set line accordingly.

Manpower – tailors and helpers.

Load and feeding lines.

To arrange buffer or work-in-progress.

Manufacturing.

To make daily production and to achieve targets accordingly.

To understand bottlenecks stage of production.

Working steps of production department:

Shrinkage production pattern is issued to production floor from CAD dept.

Ready patterns are made as per the requirement of production room.

Cutting receives from cutting dept.

Cross checking of cut panels with patterns.

Bundling of cut panels is done.

Operation wise feeding of cut panel into the line.

Inline checkpoints.

Output of line.

Final checkpoints.

Auditing of checked pieces.

Some important production points:

Ratio between worker and machinery

Bottleneck area to be considered

In most of machine, guide is there

They are using cartons to moving bundles

They generate report for broken needle

Complete assembly is divided in 6 parts, in end of every part there was a record sheet,

which shows early target input, actual input, target output and actual output.

According to this they can find out bottleneck area.

PRODUCTION CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN TWO WAYS

A. UNIT PRODUCTION SYSTEM

B. ASSEMBLY LINE PRODUCTION SYSTEM

A. UNIT PRODUCTION SYSTEM

In this system workflow in line one operator make one complete garment. It is very time

consuming and increase the manufacturing cost of a garment so it is not commonly used.

B. ASSEMBLY LINE PRODUCTION SYSTEM

In this production system a garment is being stitched by no. of workers, therefore one part is

stitched by one worker and then passed on to other, due to which line gets setup. In the end

assembly of all the parts is done, in modern industries conveyor belts are used as a medium of

transportation of garment part from one worker to another. This system is very commonly

used in industry as it reduces the manufacturing cost increases the production.

SMART MRT SYSTEM

Smart MRT production system is modular chain system. A Smart MRT system is used for

assembly line system. Smart MRT saves the helper work and timing and this saving totally

for money. This is an electronic device and start by a PC system with software of smart

MRT. This machine cost is 1,00,00,000 crore. We includes in this machine operation

breakdown (station by station), 52 stations are there in this machine. Operations input and

output and operator log on and log off timing save the memory of MRT piece.

WASHING

Garments pass through various handling processes, which may render them dirty and stain,

thereby reducing their aesthetic appeal. To restore this aesthetic value, they are subjected to

cleansing process like washing and dry cleaning (PERC). Garments are sent for washing by

the production department as per the buyer’s requirement. Normally the fabrics are not asked

to go for wash by the buyer. Whether the fabric department may internally sent it a number of

other reasons.

To control uneven shrinkage

To remove bowing

To lighten color shade

To improve hand

To even out color shade variations

To remove printing smell

To execute a dyeing program

TYPES OF WASHING

Normal Wash

Garment Wash

Enzyme Wash

Stone Wash

Softener

Bleach

Acid Wash

Monkey Wash

Emery Balls Wash

Silicon Balls Wash

Sand Wash

PERC

PERC is commonly known as DRY CLEANING. Every garment is not subjected the PERC

or DRY CLEANING process. Only those garments, which have stubborn like that of oil and

rust, undergo this process. Mostly white or light color garment that more vulnerable to

staining are dry cleaned. PERC gives whiteness as well as shiny appearance also.

The solvent for stain removal used in PERC machine is per Chloroethane, which is specially

imported for stain for dry cleaning process. The 32 kg capacity machine stores about 300 ltr

of PERC oil in its reservoir. A no. of other chemicals like softener, optical brightening agent

(blancol CF, 5 min, 55 degree c, 3-5 ml/kg), hard stain (Zn) removers (Perclean P, 30 min),

anti-wrinkle agents (polysal RM), hard water stains remover(di-methyl formaldehyde) etc.

are also added. The process is carried out in presence of steam air pressure and at a specific

temperature normally 50-60 degree centigrade. The duration of the process depends upon the

type of garments, usually being about 20-30 min. when the machine is started, 2-3 min are

given for the oil to be purified through a distillation tank. Like this the oil is made ready to

the reuse for a no. of dry cleaning cycle. After every process the machine undergo self-

cleaning. About 2 % of PERC oil is wastage for one full lot in each cycle and the oil is

changed when it became enough dirty or coloured.

METHODS OF DRYING

The choice for the method of drying depends upon the dimensional stability of the fabric as

predicted by the fabric sourcing dept. accordingly there can be following methods:

Tumble drying-refers to the drying in a machine called Tumbler.

Drip-drying-refers to drying the garments by directly hanging them after washing i.e.

without hydro. For this kind of drying the load is removing from the washer just before the

water begins to drain for the final spin cycle. The garments are removing soaking wet and

drip dried.

Line drying-here, the garments after washing undergo for hydro and then hang for drying.

Flat drying-refers to drying the garment by laying it flat on a surface. It is usually carried out

for highly unstable fabric material.

WASHING MACHINERY

Horizontal washing machine- This machine is being used for washing garments and fabric

rolls. Normal wash, hard wash, enzyme wash, softener wash, bleaching for dye, stripping are

done in this machine. Dyeing of greige fabric also takes place. The small capacity horizontal

washing machine is used for sampling department.

Front loading washing machine- This machine is used for washing only. All types of wash

like Normal wash, hard wash, enzyme wash, softener wash can be done in this too. Fabric

lots are not washed in this machine because the fabric lots get entangled in front loading

machine.

Hydro- The garments are wrung in these machines to remove excess water after washing.

The garments are spun in drums which rotate at high speed squeezing the water out of them.

This process takes about 3min.

Tumble dryer- This machine evaporates out all the left over water from the garments

making them completely dry. Tumbling is carried out for about half an hour depending upon

the fabric quality and a temperature of about 60 C which subsequently drops to 35-40 C as

the steam is exhausted.

PERC machine- This machine is used for dry cleaning process. It uses steam air pressure,

Per Chloro Ethane solution and a specified temperature for different types of fabric/garments.

All the process including washing, drain, hydro, drying and cooling occur in the same

machine.

FINISHING

After assembly, the garments now come for finishing- a key stage of garment manufacturing

process. Finishing is done to prepare the final garment according to the quality standards of

the buyer before packing it for shipment.

PROCESS FLOW OF FINISHING

INITIAL CHECKING AND SPOTTING

THRAED CUTTING

WASHING

GARMENT COMES FROM PRODUCTION

BASIC WORK FLOW

Washing, PERC- According to the buyer’s demand or as per garment buyer specifies recipes

and the method to be employed. The pieces are counted and sent with the wash or PERC

program.

Thread trimming- Pieces received from the washing department or from the assembly line

now come for thread trimming where trails of thread are cut off from the seams, buttons etc.

manually with the help of trimming scissor.

Spotting- During the assembly, the garment may acquire stains and other objectionable

marks which must be removed. This is done either in washing department or they are locally

‘spotted off’. Objectionable stains like that of chalk are spotted by means of spotting guns

containing mild solvent (e.g. water, benzene etc.). Harder and stubborn stains (like that of

tobacco, rust, dye, kerosene etc.) are sent to the spotting room where they are cleansed under

the spotting machine in a protective environment. If the spots still don’t go then they are sent

for PERC or dry cleaning.

General checking- Now the garment comes for general checking relating to overall stitching.

Here, first the general visual appearance is studied which includes shape of the garments;

balancing of the parts, color variations etc. Then any seaming defects are recognized for

example unmade seams, missed stitches etc. As per requirement the checked pieces are send

for mending to assembly line. The production manager gives a TOP sample to the checkers as

a visual aid.

Final thread cutting- Minute threads like those of labels, bar tack etc. are trimmed off to

give the neat look. Thread loosely sticking to the garments is also shed off, both in and out by

jerking the garment before it goes for pressing.

Pressing- Pressing in general is shaping the assembled material with pressure, with/without

heat and/or moisture, for further processing. In case of knits, this is important but not as

significant as in the case of woven because of their property of excellent recovery and fit.

Then the ironing of the garments takes place on the steam boards with steam ironing

machine. The patterns of various sizes of components are marked on the pressing table. The

component is placed on these pressing patterns of the size of the garments and then pressed.

This is done so that if there are any measurement discrepancies, they can be set or removed

by stretching or contracting while steam pressing the knits. This ensures one final and equal

look within one size of the garment.

Measurement and final checking- This is the final and most stringent done for garment

measurement, appearance, labels, trims etc. to study the final look and shape of the product

produced. Measurements are done according to the specification sheets and recordings are

made for any variations in the measurement chart. This gives an overall idea about the quality

of the garment being produced. Finally, all the good garments are counted recorded and sent

to the packing tables.

PACKAGING

Packing is the last stage where the finished garments are primed, organized, geared up for the

shipment to the buyer, the entire process from the way a garment will be folded to the final

labeling of the cartons is dictated by the buyer’s specifications. Buyers demand this so s to

achieve consistency in the packages, and also to provide a visual value to the product at retail

label within their vendor base. These instructions are standardized for a particular type of

garment and sent to the merchandiser in form of a packing manual. The merchandiser

forwards it to the packing in-charge along with a TOP (Top of Production) sample i.e.,

packed with the packing dimensions approved by the buyer. This is kept as a visual reference

for the packers.

PROCESS FLOW OF PACKAGING

BASIC WORK FLOW

As the garments are received from the finishing they are first sent to the packing table for

counting. This counting is done to maintain a record of how much goods have been received

in the packing department and how much already packed. Although packing and shipment are

not a part of the production department yet they affect the quality of the goods to a

considerable extent.

SENT FOR SHIPMENT

LOADED INTO TRUCKS

CARTON IS SEALED

DETAILS ARE PASTED ON CARTON

ALL PIECEC PUT IN TO CARTON

1 OR 2 ARE PACKED TOGETHER

IT IS THEN FOLDED

GARMENTS COME FROM INSPECTION

Packing is done in two stages:

1. Poly Bag packing

a. Tacking

b. Folding

2. Carton packing

PACKING NORMS

Packages are sent under licensing rules for shipment. The rules are also specified by the

individual buyer and are universal for their respective order. Some of such norms include:

1. All garments packed in individual poly bags.

2. Poly bag sticker on poly bags, which may be printed by the factory

3. Order must be completed (packed, ready for shipment) prior to bulk orders.

4. Order must be inspected and audited by the factory 100%.

5. Order must be of first quality, no repair or ungraded garments should be in license

shipments.

6. Order must be shipped 100% complete otherwise notified.

7. The packed goods are now ready to be passed through.

PROJECT WORK:

Monitoring of lost time and operator performance

AIM OF THE PROJECT

The aim of the project was to analyze the operations of sewing line and finding out the reason

of lost time.

Also to improve the operators performance.

WORK METHODOLOGY

After getting the objective, our first focus was to analyze the time being taken by each

operator for his/her operation. We spent 9 days for time study & observation for this in the

production line.

OBSERVATIONS

Before starting the project, the operation break down of the garment of the particular style

was observed and time study as well as capacity study was taken. The operation break down

was as follows:

S.No. Operation Operation Description SMV

1 Collar Mark collar panels for run stitch 0.32

2 Run stitch collar with inserting thread 0.68

3 Trim, turn and press collar 0.52

4 Topstitch on collar 0.52

5 Crease and mark collar band for attach 0.62

6 Attach collar with collar band 0.84

7 Trim, turn, press and mark collar for attach 0.62

8 Front Attach button hole placket 0.44

9 Sew button placket 0.4

10 Back Attach back yoke with back panel 0.34

11 Mark and attach label on back yoke 0.28

12 Turn and topstitch back yoke 0.3

13 Sleeve Mark and cut V notch for the placket attach 0.68

14 Attach inner sleeve placket 0.42

15 Attach outer sleeve placket 0.42

16 Tack sleeve placket at button and finish placket box 1.29

16 A Tack sleeve placket at bottom and finish placket box 1.29

17 Mark and sew pleats on sleeve opening 0.3

18 Cuff Sew hem on upper cuff panel 0.4

19 Mark and run stitch cuff by inserting thread 0.74

20 Trim, turn and press cuff for attach 0.68

21 Assembly Join shoulder 0.6

22 Topstitch on shoulder 0.42

23 Mark and attach collar at neckline 0.78

24 Close collar and edge stitch collar all around 1.2

25 Attach sleeve at armhole 1.31

26 Top stitch at armhole 1.1

26 A Top stitch and tack at bottom 1.1

27 Sew side seam 0.30

28 Attach cuff at sleeve opening 0.78

29 Topstitch at cuff 0.66

30 Sew bottom hem 0.68

The below graphs are showing the Operators performance%. After 9 days of observation we

analyzed the reason for time wastage. After putting attention on operator the average

performance of operator increased from 23.98% to 26%.

The Date wise Graph is shown below.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 330

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

15

3832

2520

50

31

21 20

10 1015

33

15 15

22 22

13

2226 27 28 28

25

45

3033

9

0

2118 17

100

Operator Performance Chart

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 330

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

21

36

2117 18

40

2722 20

11 1013

31

18 18

28 27

1318

2823 25

18

30

50

40

48

36

0

30

22 20

100

Operator Performance Chart

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 330

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

13

38

2522 20

40

2720 20

11 10 12

30

18 18

30 29

11

18

28 27 27

18

32

51

35

45

38

0

3125

21

100

Chart Title

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 330

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

19

41

2623

20

47

30

23 22

1511

15

39

21 19

45

35

1519

3125

35

20

38

6560 61

48

0

3832

40

100

Operator Performance Chart

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 330

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

18

40

25 2521

9

29

2118

15 15

40

22 23

5562

1520

4340 38

20

48

74 75

6562 63

0

48

3641

100

Chart Title

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 330

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

22

40

27 2721

48

3025 23

27

18 20

42

2528

3235

1925

40

3035

25

38 39

28

3540

0

20

35

25

100

Operator Performance Chart

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 330

20

40

60

80

100

120

25

42

2521 19

3528

20 20 23 20 20

40

22 22

3240

25 25

3540

2025

3843

35 35 38

0

22

35

25

100

Operator Performance Chart

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 330

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

2530

25 2520

35

2520 20

2520 19

38

25 2530

33

20 21 2225 24 23

20

35 3430

38

0

19

3025

100

Operator Performance Chart

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 330

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

20

32

21 21 21

35

28 2721

18 20

35

25 23

30 30

20 2025 24 23 25

3238

30 28 30 29

0

21

33

21

100

Operator Performance Chart

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 330

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

21

3025 24

20

35

28

20 19 20 20 20

3125 25

30 30

20 20

2825

2125

32 32 31 30 30

0

28 3025

100

Operator Performance Chart

PROJECT OUTCOME:

During the project we observed that initially most of the times were going waste in extra

other activities like drinking water etc.

It was observed the operators were not flexible to work in the new line setup that’s why their

performance was not up to the mark.

With the Help of this project the IE department of the AVS Creations Pvt Ltd put some

pressure on the operator not to waste the time on other activities and increased the average

performance of Operator from 23.9 to 26%.