Australian Free-range

Snail Production

© Sonya Begg 2010 Snail Farming Information Service

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This visual presentation demonstrates the technique of

establishing a free-range snail farm in Australia.

It explains the value of the biological cycle of breeding

snails as the most ethical and sustainable method of raising

snails and how to purge and process snails to ensure a

high-quality end product.

It provides insight on how to produce better tasting snails

than those raised in overcrowded enclosures by optimising

the welfare and health of snails.

It complements the CODE OF PRACTICE Australian Free-

range Snail Farming and Australian Free-range Snail

MARKETING STRATEGIES

Read these documents at www.snailfarming.net Scroll down

to ‘Information’.

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To emphasise that free-range snail

production is a sustainable farming

practice.

To highlight free-range snail farming as

the most acceptable and moral method

of snail production and has a positive

influence on the quality of snails.

To encourage the application of organic

and biodynamic principles to further

enhance the biological cycle of raising

snails.

To discourage intensive snail growing and

fattening in overcrowded conditions in

small enclosures or greenhouses

(backyard operations).

Aim of the Code of Practice

Please read

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Reason for free-range snail production

The natural physiological

characteristics of snails are

enriched by a free-range

environment.

It it promotes

excellent metabolic and

respiratory functions for the

snails ― plenty of space and

natural air circulation.

To understand the needs of the

physiology, growth, reproduction,

nutrition and snail behavior.

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Free-range versus intensive snail production

Improved breeding environment.

No overcrowding problems

Higher reproduction rates.

Lower mortality.

Clean environment, so no excess

slime, faeces or odour.

Optimises the health and welfare

of the snails.

Produces wholesome, consistent

sized, top-quality snails.

Results in a better product.

Fine example of snails

bred in free-range snail

production unit

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Optimising welfare and health of snails

Space to roam free prevents

over-crowding.

Benefit of natural ventilation, sun

and moon light, rain and the

evening dew.

Allowed to live according to nature,

creating ecological balance

between soil, plants and snails.

Moral and ethical method of

farming snails.

Stress-free environment due to

the natural biological cycle of

breeding snails.

Less human handling.

Produces large numbers of consistent

high-quality snail livestock.

Foraging makes snails more tender

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Compare the difference

Snails raised in free-range or open pastures Snails raised in overcrowded

conditions in small enclosures

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Snails suitable for free-range snail production in Australia

In Australia the domestic production of edible snails for the commercial

market is Cantareus aspersus ─ formerly Helix aspersa — first described

in Italy by Müller in 1774.

It is a terrestrial snail and is herbivorous. It is known in Australia as the

common brown garden snail (or ‘petit-gris’, meaning ‘little grey’).

It is one of the most popular snails eaten snail in France, Italy and other

European countries.

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Basic biology of the snail

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Climatic conditions

C. aspersus adapt well to cooler

regions up to 750m above sea level

and endure frost and snow if given

adequate crop shelter.

Temperate regions of Australia and

New Zealand with yearly temperature

within the range minimum -4ºC to

maximum 30ºC.

C. aspersus are induced to aestivate

when drought, heat and extreme cold

slows their metabolic activity.

They are not suitable for breeding in

tropical or desert areas of Australia.

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◘ Finished crops are ploughed back into

the ground as ‘green manure’ crops.

◘ Physical controls are maintained for

unwanted weeds and pests.

◘ Biological control using insectary

plants attract ‘beneficial bugs’.

◘ Working with the appropriate rhythmic

influences of the moon for planting,

cultivation, and harvesting snails.

◘ Ecological benefits of natural sun and

moon light, organic soil, rain and the

evening dew.

Benefits of applying organic principles

Applying organic principles is an integral part of a free-range snail farm.

An organic production system sustains the health of soils, ecosystems and

snails.

◘ Crops are planted without the use

of synthetic fertilisers.

◘ No chemicals are used in the snail

fields.

◘ Crops are rotated to disrupt any

soil-born diseases.

◘ Companion planting is encouraged.

◘ Crops are planted densely to help

prevent weed growth and bird

predation.

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To follow biodynamic principles, plan the

sowing of seeds to coincide with the fertile

phases of the moon.

Plans for seeding can be formulated by using

lunar phases for sowing seeds so the

connection between the solar system and

natural biological cycles is maximized.

Plant leafy vegetables when the

moon is waxing and root vegetables when

the moon is waning.

Because the lunar phase is said to control

the moisture in the soil, you will find that the

seeds germinate quickly and the plants grow

strong and healthy in a relatively short time.

Planting crops by the moon

Use an astrological calendar as an

easy guide to planting crops.

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Improves natural balance and

reduce harmful insect pest

outbreaks. A ‘good bug bed’ is an

excellent biological method of

controlling aphids, scale, red spider

mite, caterpillar and other pests

without the use of chemicals.

It also provides a natural nectar

source that attracts the beneficial

insects to help control unwanted

pests.

Some of the plants in the mix

include annual and perennial

flowers such as marigolds,

alyssum, cosmos, Queen Anne’s

lace, red clover, dill and caraway.

Good bug bed – Biological control of unwanted plant pests

The best time to plant a ‘good bug bed’ is in late

winter so its biological control will be successful in

controlling any pests that may appear in the crops

grown for snails in mid-spring and summer.

Plant the ‘good bug bed’ either inside the

perimeter fence or outside it, as long as it’s close

to the snail production area.

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Minimum space requirements

To ensure viable, commercial snail production, a minimum of 850 square

metres to one hectare is needed to breed around 50,000 snails each season.

This area allows room for crop and snail rotation and fallow areas.

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Position of site

North facing, level to slightly undulating land.

Good drainage and protection from prevailing winds.

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Preparing the site

◘ Mark out the designated area

and clear land of weeds and

other vegetation.

◘ Determine soil acidity by

conducting a soil test.

◘ Add organic soil conditioner

and composted material if

necessary.

◘ Include fine grade garden

limestone (calcium carbonate)

if necessary. Soil should be

slightly alkaline at pH level of

around 7.5-8.

Good preparation of the soil during initial establishment will prevent the germination of weed

seeds and give a good base for planting of feed and shelter crops for the snails.

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After clearing the land, build the perimeter fence.

The perimeter fence is the most important part of construction. It keeps

burrowing animals, rodents and snakes and other unwanted pests out of the

snail production area.

Producers who have not erected an external fence have reported problems with

rabbits and rodents.

The outside of the galvanized fence must always be completely free of anything

that climbing animals may use as a form of entry.

All posts and other fencing materials should be attached to the inside surface

of the galvanised iron sheets. There must be no holes or gaps so predators

(large and very small) are able to get through.

Once the area is clear of all weeds, the perimeter fence is placed around the

entire area selected for snail production.

Allow enough room for at least one metre of clear pathways on each side of

the perimeter fence.

The perimeter fence

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Constructing the perimeter fence

◘ Construct an external fence of corrugated galvanised iron sheeting around the entire

perimeter of the area designated for the snail production unit. Allow for future

internal expansion.

◘ The galvanised sheeting should be at least 85cm in height and buried to a depth

of 30cm.

This fence is

important

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Setting the perimeter fence into the ground

Place the galvanized

iron sheets in the trench

and drive in iron star

posts where the sheets

meet.

Use a trenching

machine to dig a trench

30cm deep around the

perimeter.

Attach the galvanized sheets

butt-joined in the corner with

pop-rivets over the right-angled

sections of aluminium so there

are no gaps in the corners.

◘ Use pop-rivets to join the galvanized sheets and then bolt to the star posts.

◘ Use square section 100mm x100mm steel post in the corners.

◘ Pop-rivet right-angled sections of aluminum to the 100mm x 100mm posts.

◘ Allow enough room for at least one metre of clear pathways on each side of the perimeter fence.

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Corners of the perimeter fence

◘ Butt the gal-iron panels closely to steel posts in each corner and seal

behind with silicone (see arrow) so there are absolutely no gaps (even small

ones) to be seen.

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Adding a predator-free gate to perimeter fence

◘ Make two vertical cuts with tin snips

into the middle of one of the

galvanised iron panels of the

perimeter fence – wide enough to

allow a rotary hoe to enter.

◘ The cuts are made from the top edge

to just above ground level, so that

this panel can be folded down to

make a ramp. (see next page).

◘ Place two flat aluminium strips 75mm

wide and 2mm thick each side of the

cut panel – on the inside of the fence

– so that half the strip is pop-riveted

to the fixed panel and the other half

bolted to the opening panel.

◘ The strips are necessary to

cover the cuts so mice and other

small predators cannot get through.

1 2

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Panel folds outwards to make a

ramp on outside of fence

Aluminium strips bolted to fixed

and cut sides of panel on inside

of fence, so there are no gaps

◘ To access the free-range area, the bolts on the opening panel only are undone,

leaving the aluminium strip attached to the fixed panel.

◘ The panel is folded downwards to the ground that forms a temporary ramp for the

rotary hoe to be wheeled into the free-range area.

◘ The ramp should never be left down for any length of time, even when operating

machinery in the free-range area, to prevent predators or other animals entering.

Perimeter fence — outside surface Perimeter fence— inside surface

Gate access details

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Perimeter fence option

◘ Kangaroos are rarely a problem but if they are, a cyclone wire

extension can be added above the galvanized iron fence.

◘ As an extra precaution, the addition of an electric out-rigger wire is

recommended.

◘ Crops may offer a tempting meal for kangaroos and rabbits.

The outside of the galvanized area of

the perimeter fence should be

completely clear of any materials to

prevent climbing predators

Out-rigger hot wire attached to cyclone

netting

Cyclone netting above galvanised fence

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Once the perimeter fence is in

place start constructing the

internal fields.

Internal fields or paddocks for

housing are fenced with open

weave shade cloth or wind break

material to provide adequate air

circulation and ventilation for

essential respiration of the snails.

The number of internal fields in

this project is 10 to maximise the

space and take advantage of

north/south layout.

Any number of fences can be

constructed according to the

allocated area.

Internal fencing (snail fields)

NB: All internal fences can be erected at once or if time is an issue, construct only the first

field for the breeders (reproduction field) and finish the rest later in the season (optional).

Plan to join the mesh at the end of field so it can be

opened easily to allow rotary hoeing.

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Setting out the internal fences

◘ As a guide, you need three

growing fields for each

reproduction field.

◘ Leave one metre of space

between the perimeter

fence and one metre of

space between all the

netting fields.

◘ Place iron posts a

minimum of 2 metres apart.

Reproduction

field Growing field ‘Good bug bed’

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Constructing the internal fences

◘ Have a top pocket and two downward facing

flaps sewn into the mesh by the shade cloth supplier

while it is still in the roll. (The flaps help prevent

snails going over the side).

◘ Incorporate the pocket and flap at the top and thread

pocket with fencing wire so it can be attached to iron

posts.

◘ Flaps should measure 20cm and are sewn in as

pleats ― 40cm of material is allowed for each pleat.

◘ Dig a trench around the perimeter of each field.

◘ Place iron posts a minimum of 2 metres apart to

support the mesh. Attach mesh to posts with

twitching wire.

◘ Roll up and bury the remainder of mesh material into

the trench so the completed fence stands at least

70cm high. (You need to be able to climb over the

netting).

Second flap

remainder

buried

top pocket

and top flap

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Details of internal fencing mesh

Flap 2

Pocket for wire

Flap 1

Remainder of material

buried into the trench

◘ Buy good quality open-weave

windbreak or shade cloth mesh

with ultra violet block out.

◘ It can be purchased in rolls

measuring 1.8m x 50m.

◘ Cheaper quality mesh is

subject to stretching and

damage from the elements.

◘ Use green or cream coloured

mesh (black attracts heat).

◘ If using shade cloth buy

minimum density usually

around 30-50%. It’s not

shade that is required but

good air circulation.

◘ Ask the manufacturer of shade

cloth products to sew the flaps in

as pleats.

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Pathways

◘ Keep the pathways around

the outside and inside of the

perimeter fence and in

between internal fields clear

of any weeds or vegetation.

◘ Remove the weeds by hand

or if necessary, spray the

weeds with an organic

herbicide.

◘ Some snails manage to climb

out of the netting enclosures

but they will usually return by

daylight because of their

territorial nature.

◘ However, if there is a clump

of vegetation they are

inclined to go only as far as

the weeds rather than back to

their field.

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Water requirements for snail production

Yes, we

like lots of

water

Snails love rain and need

water for hydration.

The soil needs to be kept

moist for egg laying and

hatching.

Sufficient water is needed to

grow crops successfully.

Water keeps the snails active

(eating, breeding, growing).

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Irrigation

An irrigation system is recommended for

watering plants and to encourage night-time

activity of the snails.

Overhead sprinklers, providing light misting,

are more suitable than heavy watering to

prevent the soil from becoming saturated.

Incorporate the irrigation system in the early

stage of establishment, either before or after

erecting the internal fences.

A filter should be attached to the irrigation

system if water is sourced from a dam.

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Snails require protein, fibre, vitamins and minerals including extra

calcium for shell development.

All snails need ad lib access to naturally-grown food, moisture and

the advantage of the evening dew.

Plants such as forage brassicas (cabbage family), hybrid turnip, plantain,

dandelion, wild turnip, clover and silver beet contain necessary nutriments

and are ideal for planting inside fields as a food source and habitat.

Along with growing suitable plants for food, dry organic animal foods such

crushed corn, bran, oats, full-fat soy mixture is an added supplement if

necessary, and can be given to snails bred for human consumption as

long as the formula does not contain antibiotics or any added chemicals.

Food for free-range snails

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Suitable food and shelter crops for free-range snails

FOOD

◘ White clover (Trifolium repens) (only newly hatched snails)

◘ Strawberry clover (Trifolium fragiferum)

(only newly hatched snails)

◘ Forage rape (Brassica napus)

◘ Forage brassica hybrids (Brassica campestris spp)

◘ Plantain (Plantago lanceolata)

◘ Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)

◘ Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)

◘ White Radish (Raphanus sativus longipinnatus) (root only)

◘ Wild Turnip (Brassica rapa spp. Silvestris)

◘ Purple-top Turnip (Brassica rapa)

SHELTER

◘ White clover (Trifolium repens)

◘ Strawberry clover (Trifolium

fragiferum)

◘ Chickory (Cichorium intybus)

◘ Silverbeet (Beta vulgaris)

◘ Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)

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The most accepted plants by free-range snails

◘ Forage brassica

◘ Leafy turnip

◘ Cabbage and other plants from

the Brassica family

◘ Plantain

◘ Silverbeet

◘ Lettuce

◘ Red or white clover

◘ Dandelion

◘ Chickory

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During times of low feed or high

density of juvenile snails,

supplementary crops can be

grown outside the snail production

area,

or

Green waste leaves such as

lettuce and cabbage can be

sourced from local (preferably

organic) fruit and vegetable

suppliers.

Purchase second-grade carrots

(horse carrots) in 20kg bags as an

additional supplement. Carrots are

especially useful after snails come

out of hibernation and at the start

of the breeding season.

Supplementary food with fresh vegetables

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.

◘ A mix of grains such as maize, soybean,

crushed corn and oats with the addition of

calcium carbonate (fine grade garden lime)

can be sprinkled onto concrete pavers

measuring around 40cm x 40cm.

◘ Place the pavers flush in the ground

randomly in the enclosures for

supplementary feeding of cereal grains.

◘ The pavers need to be flush to the level

surface of the ground to prevent snails

snails gathering on the sides or

underneath the pavers.

The pavers can be easily removed later.

Supplementary feeding with grain

Pavers

Never use wooden boards, polystyrene boxes or rocks in free-range

snail fields as it encourages snails to congregate. This results in

overcrowding and shell rasping and other problems.

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◘ Open one end of the field and lay

netting flat on the ground to allow

a rotary hoe or other equipment

to enter.

◘ Prepare the soil by rotary hoeing

and rake over to prepare a seed

bed.

◘ Plant seed in rills at 30cm row

spacing. (Rill seeding takes a little

more time than broadcasting but

germination is better).

◘ Use the end of a broom handle to

make rills and sprinkle the seeds

quite heavily into the furrows.

◘ Cover with a thin layer of soil and

then water gently.

Preparing the seed bed for snail food crops

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Planting the seeds

◘ Planting seeds rather

than seedlings is more

economical for large

areas that need to be

planted densely.

◘ Rotate crops for each

planting so the same

plants are not planted in

the same area of soil.

◘ Each field can have two

different crops planted

that can be rotated the

following year ―

e.g. brassica on one side,

spinach on the other side

– then rotated at the next

planting.

◘

Plant seeds densely

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Selective and controlled breeding of free-range snails

Selective breeding

Like any animal raising activity,

genetics in snail reproduction plays a

major role in homogeneous

appearance and consistency in size.

Selective breeding is based on the

choice of parents with desirable traits

to produce improved progeny ― size

first, then colour of shell or flesh.

Selective breeding may not be a long-

term panacea due to possible genetic

throwbacks, so it’s important to focus

on the traits that you are looking for in

a snail and this is where ‘controlled

breeding’ comes in.

Controlled breeding

The traits you desire in your

snails must be conserved and

the undesirable ones

suppressed.

This is done by repeatedly

selecting the best snails from

each generation to be the

parents of the next. Any mature

snails that are undersize must be

discarded.

Close monitoring for undesirable

traits (usually after about three –

four years) may require an

injection of a different strain to

reduce any recessive genes that

may occur.

Fact: The colour of the flesh of snails is

most influenced by genetics, not by the

food it is given.

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Selecting initial breeding stock

Sourcing breeding stock

Initial breeding stock can be sourced from

suburban gardens to create a genetic base.

Select only healthy-looking snails measuring

30-32mm that display even growth patterns.

Big snails breed bigger snails so it’s

important that only large snails are kept for

initial breeding. Discard undersize snails.

The progeny of this initial breeding stock

judged to have the best growth rates and

size are chosen for the next batch of

breeders.

The Biological cycle of

breeding snails

◘ The biological cycle starts with

the snails first selected for the

initial breeding program.

◘ These are the snails that will

form the foundation for a solid

genetic base.

◘ It begins at conception and

finishes when adulthood is

reached and the snails starts

to produce their own progeny.

◘ When the progeny reach

adulthood, the cycle begins again.

◘ Snails must complete their

biological cycle including winter

hibernation, to ensure high

fecundity and fertility.

Make sure the snails

selected for breeding

have a hard edge on

the lips of their shells

– to indicate maturity.

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Mating begins in spring but

can continue through to

autumn if environmental

conditions are met.

Snails usually mate during the night

and can take four to fourteen hours

to complete.

Around six to ten days after mating,

the snail makes a hole in the soil

where it lays its eggs in batches of

any number from around 30-100

eggs at a time.

It then covers the hole with a

mixture of soil and mucus before

leaving to rest.

Reproduction

C.aspersus is an hermaphrodite and each

individual snail possesses both male and

female reproductive organs.

During mating, mutual fertilisation takes

place and one or both snails will usually lay

eggs.

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Soil needs to be friable for efficient oviposition

The eggs are round and measure approximately 3mm in diameter. They are pearly

white in colour and have a rubbery texture.

The eggs usually hatch within three weeks of being laid and the newly hatched baby

snails are exact replicas of the adult snails.

The frequency of egg laying is subject to temperature, humidity and soil conditions.

It’s estimated snails can lay several times during the breeding season under favorable

environmental conditions ― let your snails breed at their own pace.

Oviposition – egg laying

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Maximum ‘on ground’ stocking density

Free-range is about the maximum population size of the species that the environment (soil

space) can sustain indefinitely.

The freedom of enough ground area allows the snails to avoid each other’s slime trails and

enjoy uncongested living space.

Over-slimed ground and excess faeces can modify snail behaviour by putting out chemical

signals like pheromones — detrimental to reproduction and growth rates in terrestrial snails.

Snails raised in overcrowded enclosures produce fewer clutches of eggs or yield fewer eggs per

clutch resulting in inferior adult snails.

If you follow the ‘on ground’ stocking density recommendations, there will be no over-crowding

problems as often is the case in intensive or greenhouse snail farming units.

To avoid any unwanted traits that may result in decreased size and fertility from continuous line-

breeding, a number of snails from another free-range breeder source can be introduced around

every three to five years.

Stocking density

Breeding snails 20 per sq m (Reproduction field)

Juvenile snails 140 per sq m (Growing fields)

Adult snails 80 per sq m (Holding fields)

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Factors that influence the growth of snails

◘ Population density

◘ Food

◘ Temperature and moisture

◘ Breeding technology.

◘ Stress

Many factors greatly influence reproduction and the growth of snails

Snails suffer stress as they are sensitive to noise and vibration, unhygienic and

overcrowded conditions, irregular feeding and human handling.

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This schedule is a guide only. Planting of crops, reproduction and growing differ

according to the climate and can be delayed if unsuitable climatic conditions prevail.

It usually takes around six to eight weeks for crops to grow to suitable size for

introducing or transferring snails

April to July

◘ Clear land and prepare soil.

◘ Erect perimeter fence.

Contd….

FIRST SEASON

August/September

◘ Construct internal fences.

◘ Work up soil with addition of

garden lime (calcium carbonate) to

prepare seed bed in preparation

for planting.

◘ Plant out field 1 for reproduction.

◘ Plant ‘good bug bed’.

Schedule for managing free-range snail production

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October (mid)

◘ When crops are around 25-30cm

high introduce breeding stock.

◘ Don’t introduce new snails if it is

raining and put off irrigating or

watering on the first day/evening

―watering encourages them to

escape.

◘ Monitor enclosures for any escapees

and return them to the field.

◘ The newly introduced snails should

only take a few days to settle in and

then the fields will become their

territory.

◘ Place snails into the plants growing

in the middle of the fields.

Schedule for managing free-range snail production ...contd

Contd….

Brassica crop about 35-30cm and introducing

breeding snails.

Only 20 breeding

snails to the

square metre

please!

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November

◘ Plant out fields 2, 3 and 4 for

growing out baby snails when they

hatch.

◘ Breeding snails should be mating

and starting to lay eggs.

December

◘ Hatchlings and baby snails should

be visible. Leave to grow until big

enough to transfer (about the size

of a five-cent piece).

January

◘ At the end of January/early

February, transfer and distribute

baby snails that have hatched in

field 1 to fields 2, 3 and 4 for

growing.

February

◘ Allow baby snails to grow

through March and April.

◘ Towards the end of February and

when all the juvenile snails have

been transferred, harvest any

mature snails for purging and

cooking. Allow juvenile snails to

continue growing.

March

◘ Supply supplementary food for

juvenile snails if necessary.

◘. Clear all snails and old crops

from out field 1 and cover with

weed matting.

◘ Early in the month plant out fields

5, 6 and 7 for snails that will be

over-wintering.

Contd….

Schedule for managing free-range snail production ...contd

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The second season of production follows the pattern of the first year and for the

following years to come. Remember to rotate crops and snails.

April

◘ Harvest any juvenile snails that

have reached maturity for purging

and cooking.

◘ Keep the largest snails for next

year’s breeders.

May

◘ Transfer snails kept for breeding

next year to field 5 for over

wintering.

◘ Transfer other remaining snails to

fields 6 and 7. This is where the

snails will remain for winter

hibernation until transfer in spring

for final growing out.

June

◘ At beginning of June, clear out all

empty fields and cover with weed

matting and leave fallow until

ready to plant again.

◘ Cover the fallow fields with weed

matting to help deter weeds from

growing.

July/August

◘ Snails are in winter hibernation.

◘ Cover the hibernating snails with

enviro-cloth.

◘ Carry out field maintenance.

Schedule for managing free-range snail production ...contd

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Winter hibernation

◘ Cover the snail fields with enviro-cloth

(frost guard). It keeps the temperature

of the soil up to approximately 7°C

warmer.

◘ Cover the fallow fields with weed

matting

When the temperature drops below

around 5-6°C, snails start to close off

the opening of their shells.

The cover is called an epiphragm

and becomes hard and calcareous.

Snail in hibernation Enviro-cloth cover Weed cloth cover

Snails stay in hibernation until spring and is an important part of the biological cycle.

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Maintenance management during snail season

◘ Keep pathways clear of weeds.

◘ Check internal fences for holes or weeds growing at the base.

◘ Return any snails that have climbed to top of internal fences.

◘ Check irrigation and spray nozzles. Flush filters.

◘ Monitor perimeter

fence for holes that

may indicate intrusion

of frogs or mice.

◘ Trim crops that start to

go to seed to encourage

new growth.

◘ Remove any dead or

decaying leaves from

crops

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Snail predators

Warning

Predatory snail, Strangesta

capillacea. The whorl and

shell of this cannibalistic snail

is flatter than C. aspersus.

It has a definite hole for its

umbilicus – found on the

underside of the shell.

◘ Lizards, especially blue-tongue lizards.

.

◘ Rodents (rats and mice).

◘ Frogs (some varieties).

◘ Toads.

◘ Ducks.

◘ Currawongs, butcherbirds, chicken

hawks, owls and other birds.

◘ Beetles and centipedes.

◘ Carnivorous snails (shown here).

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Dealing with snail predators

Birds ― threat from birds is unusual if crops are planted densely. Snails are nocturnal and

retreat into the crops during the day, so are not visible to birds.

Carnivorous snails ― make sure there are no carnivorous snails among the collected

snails you introduce as initial breeding stock.

Frogs ― remove by hand and relocate.

Mice ― trap and remove. Using baits is not recommended.

Lizards ― are never a problem if the perimeter fence has been constructed as described.

Staphylinid beetles ― known for

feeding on larvae and slug and

snail eggs. They are sometimes

confused with earwigs but do not

have pincers. Remove by hand

and destroy.

Carabids ― members of this beetle

family are fast-moving predators and

are usually recognized by their prominent

mandibles, large round eyes, slender,

simple antennae and pungent odor. If

seen remove by hand and destroy.

Beetles

52

Harvesting snails

◘ The best time for harvesting is at dawn

and dusk, especially after rain or water

misting.

◘ Pick up snails by hand and place in

collection bucket, ready for transfer to

purging shed or growing fields.

Make sure the shell edge is hard on the snails you pick up.

53

◘ Use a measuring guide for snails

ready for the market because it’s

easy to become “snail blind” and

sizing can become quite confusing.

◘ Throw out some fresh or grain

supplementary feed. The snails will

gather together and can be easily

picked up and transferred to other

fields or to the purging bins.

◘ Pick snails off the sides of the netting

fences after rain or watering.

Fill a bucket with snails and count

them as you go. Next time just fill

the bucket to the same level and

you will know approximately how

many snails you are harvesting or

transferring.

Tips for harvesting snails

Measuring guide

Cut notch 30mm wide from piece of wood.

Snail should fit snugly in cut out area. If

any space between ends of notch and

snail, then it’s not big enough. If it’s too big

to fit — it’s a bonus.

54

This snail has not reached maturity

because the lip of its shell is still soft.

It should be left to mature before

harvesting.

Big is better

Mature snails are ready to harvest for the

market.

They should measure 30mm absolute

mimimum measured across the base of

the shell.

Snails ready for harvesting should have a

hard lip (or edge) of shell.

Soft lip

Hard lip

55

Purging is the removal of

any soil and grit from the

digestive system of the snails.

It is the first step in preparing

snails for sale.

Snails are purged to make sure

they are perfectly clean and

safe for human consumption.

The snails should remain

whole. It is not necessary to

trim any part of the snail

whorl.

Purging snails – what it’s all about

This photo shows how snails should look after

purging and processing. Perfectly clean and plump.

They are ready to use in recipe of choice.

Visceral mass

Don’t trim

Process your own snails

to ensure quality control

56

Where to build the purging pod

The purging area can be built utilizing the whole area of a shed or built as separate

pod within an existing shed.

57

The irrigation shown in the purging buckets was

found to be superfluous.

Only a hose with adjustable spray is necessary

to wash the buckets and rinse the snails at the

same time.

Where to build the purging pod Please note – irrigation cost saving

58

Snails are purged in clean containers without soil.

Here the evaporative cooler is placed on a stand in front of

small window at opposite end to stable door that also

provides air circulation.

The cooler is modified with a float valve and attached to

mains water flow and the temperature controller is placed

above.

Temperature sensor from

temperature controller

Inside the purging pod

Refrigerated air

conditioning is not

suitable as it dries out

the atmosphere.

Install a tap and hose inside the purging pod for washing out bins and floors.

59

Purging bins

To accommodate the snails during the

purging process use 25 litre white

plastic bins.

These bins are easy to clean and

efficient management of snails is

maximised.

◘ Drill several holes in the bottom edge

of the bins for water and waste

drainage.

◘ Cut a hole in the lid of the bins to

leave a square hole. Cover with wire

mesh (about 10mm) and secure with

heavy duty staples on the inside of the

lids.

◘ Attach a flexible security cord to the

side of the rim of the bins to keep the lid

in place. (When large numbers of snails

congregate together on the lid, it can

easily come off).

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◘ Mount the purging bins on timber frames.

◘ Use household guttering along the rear and attached to the wall, to support the

bottom edge of the bucket and for drainage from the buckets.

◘ The timber frame is used to support the bucket while it rests on the guttering.

◘ The guttering is sloped to the water outlet.

◘ Allow at least a 15° slope between the front timber edge and the guttering at the

back to allow for drainage in the bucket.

◘ The framework holding the purging bins should hold them in a secure position to

prevent the containers from rolling around. Otherwise add chocks on either side

of the buckets to keep them secure.

Constructing the framework for bins

Images next page

61

Framework for bins

Slope the frames and guttering towards the

drainage outlet

Guttering on back wall.

Chock for bin support

Drainage to outside or collection bin

Slope the bin 15º towards the guttering for drainage.

There should be no pooling of water in the bin.

62

The purging process

◘ Collect snails from fields and transfer to

clean containers in a cool shed with

plenty of air circulation.

◘ Water must be available for misting,

cleaning and evaporative cooling (if

necessary) to maintain temperature

around 16-18ºC.

◘ The snails are fed a purging mix of

organic unprocessed bran and/or wheat

germ for two days.

◘ They must continue to be ‘purged’ for

seven days to rid their digestive systems

of dirt and grit.

63

Hygiene in the purging pod

Hygiene in the purging pod is vitally important to maintain a clean environment for

providing food for human consumption.

◘ Remove any dead and

dying snails.

Snails found on their

back are dead or dying.

If there is a bad smell in the

purging pod it usually

indicates dead snails.

◘ Hose out bins to

remove faeces, uneaten

food and any dead snails.

◘ Thoroughly wash and

scrub bins before new

batches of snails are

introduced.

◘ To make sure mice and

other unwanted pests

are not attracted to the

purging pod, keep the

floor clean and contain

all cereal food in a

covered bin.

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Harvested snails need to be purged for a total of seven days before processing. The

best time to for purging process is late in the afternoon, just before dusk if possible.

How to safely purge snails – day-by-day

DAY 1

Place harvested snails in bins and

spray with water only (anytime of the day)

DAY 2 and 3

Remove snails carefully from each bin to the

lid on shelf below. The snails will leave a lot of

greasy, dark faeces so wash the bins well.

Sprinkle purging bran on floor of bins replace

snails, mist lightly with water, replace lid

firmly.

Day 4

Remove snails from each bin to the lid on

shelf below. Wash out bins thoroughly. Return

snails and mist with water. No purging bran.

Day 5 and 6

Leave snails alone without food or water.

Contd….

65

Day 7

Pack snails in lots of 50 into mesh bags and

hang in a cool area with plenty of air

circulation.

How to safely purge snails – day-by-day …contd

Keep ‘in’ and ‘out’ date chart for

purging snails.

Shelf life from day of processing is nine days for fresh snails packed in

spring water and refrigerated at 4 degrees.

Day 8

Cook the the snails in the bags of the

morning of the eighth day.

At the end of processing, pack into

sterilised jars and they are ready to sell.

66

The reason for processing snails for the market

Because of diverse multicultural influences on

Australian cuisine today, many chefs request

‘live’ snails.

Sometimes those who request ‘live’ snails may

feed them on unknown herbs or other food, to

keep them longer.

Therefore the guarantee of the healthy,

properly purged and contaminant-free snails

is compromised and the grower no longer

has control of the health of the snails.

You could be putting your business at risk.

To ensure optimum quality and a safe, clean

product…process your snails! Uncooked snails MUST NEVER

be eaten….EVER

Raw, uncooked snails can cause serious

health risks.

67

The purged snails are

cooked and shelled.

They are soaked in a

mix of half salt and half

vinegar to remove

slime.

Then they are rinsed,

scraped and packed

with spring water into

sterilised jars.

Processing snails is a specialised part of producing a top-

quality fresh snail product. Cutting corners in this process

will result in inferior snails.

About the preparation of processing snails for sale

The finished product should look like the snails in the images shown here.

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◘ Clean kitchen with smooth work benches

◘ Floors that can be effectively cleaned

◘ Processing area (kitchen) must be free of pests and vermin

◘ Stove

◘ Exhaust fan

◘ Stainless steel sink

◘ Separate sink nearby for hand washing

◘ Dishwasher

◘ Refrigerator

◘ Fire extinguisher

◘ Stainless steel saucepans

◘ Stainless steel or glass bowls

◘ Small-pronged fork for snail extraction

◘ Sieve for draining snails

◘ Paring knife for slime extraction

◘ Latex gloves used for food handling

◘ Glass jars for packing

Food processing equipment

For processing 80 dozen snails – a day’s work for one person

Refer to food handling practices according to Australian and New Zealand Food Standards. Standard 3.2.3 – Food Premises and Equipment (Australia only)

69

Snails that appear thin or flattened in the centre are inferior and should not be sold. See images on next page. Trim only the snout if it has not retracted after cooking. No other trimming is necessary.

◘ Make slurry of half salt and half vinegar

to cover the snails and soak for around

two hours.

◘ Then thoroughly rinse at least three times in

cold water.

◘ Carefully scrape off any remaining

slime around the lip of the snail with

small paring knife.

◘ Transfer snails to clean bowl with half

water, half white wine and leave

overnight in the refrigerator. (The wine

helps to neutralise the salt).

◘ The following morning, rinse the snails

and pack into glass jars containing

spring water.

How to process snails

◘ Add 1/4 cup white vinegar and 2

tablespoons salt to 4.5 litres of water in

a 5 litre saucepan. Boil.

◘ Drop a bag of 50 snails into the rapidly

boiling water.

◘ To cook the snails, boil rapidly for five

minutes, making sure the water does

not go off the boil.

The same water can be used for two or three

batches (depending on slime). Always have

another one or two saucepans ready for the

next batches.

◘ Drain snails and place in a bowl of cold

water.

◘ Use a small, two-pronged fork such as

a cocktail or fondue fork for shelling the

snails.

◘ Insert the fork and twist and pull the

snail out of the shell in one movement.

The whole snail is removed in one

piece — not stretched or broken.

70

◘ Hold the snail in your left hand

(as shown here) and the fork in

your right hand.

◘ Insert the fork in the retracted

foot of the snail, twist fork

carefully in an anti-clockwise

direction while rotating your

hand the opposite way, pulling

the snail out of the shell in one

movement.

◘ Don’t push the fork all the way

through to the shell.

◘ The whole snail is removed in

one piece — not stretched or

broken.

This takes practice - do dummy runs before tackling your snails for market.

Extracting the snail from the shell

These directions are for a right-handed person.

71

Quality control

The snail on the left is seriously inferior and should never be sold.

The other snail is a perfect example of a snails produced in free-range snail production.

◘ Check processed snails

for quality. They must be clean,

plump and no sign of slime.

Wizened body, slime Full body, plump, clean

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◘ Preparing the soil

◘ Building the fences

◘ Planting crops

◘ Selecting snails for reproduction

◘ Maintenance of fields

◘ Watering/weeding

◘ Supplementary feeding

◘ Maintenance of paths

◘ Trimming crops

◘ Rotating crops

◘ Clearing out used fields

◘ Transferring snails

◘ Harvesting snails

◘ Purging snails

◘ Processing snails

◘ Packing and labelling

◘ Invoicing and accounting

◘ Marketing snails

◘ Packing and delivery of snails

The jobs in a free-range snail farm

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Production fields

$17,974 (based on production 50,000 snails)

Purging shed (and associated costs) $9,780.

Snails are seasonal and there is no income for the first year while establishing the

breeding program.

Achievable return for establishment investment

Sell 60 dozen snails a week at $12.50 per dozen for 20 weeks = $15,000

Sell 100 dozen snails a week at $12.50 per dozen for 20 weeks = $25,000

.

Two years after initial establishment, overheads are minimal and you will have a good

understanding of snail behaviour and production management. Snails and markets

can be increased and profits are boosted.

Figures estimated over two-year establishment period using new materials.

Establishment costs can be reduced by utilising second-hand materials and

using resources that may already be available.

Costs

74

Marketing snails

Sonya Begg

Orange NSW

Australia

March 2010

©

This document outlines the importance of marketing and strategic planning to provide

a focused approach for snail products and services to reach the appropriate target market.

Complimentary download from website

http://www.snailfarming.net

75

Development consent from your local Council may be

necessary. Check with the Health and Building Department.

Preparation of snails must be conducted under the

regulatory system of the Food Standards Australia and

New Zealand (FSANZ).

Laws and rules relating to food processing differ in each local

government council and from state to state so it’s necessary to

check the FSANZ website for the most current information.

A commercial business requires an Australian Business

Number (ABN) and business name registered with the

Department of Fair Trading.

Regulations

76

◘ Construct the external fence first as it’s the most expensive

component. Build the area as large as practicable for future

expansion.

◘ Start with four internal fields. It doesn’t matter if the

whole area is not under snails for the first couple of years.

◘ Before the snail season starts you need only to construct

one reproduction field and three growing fields.

◘ Use second-hand materials to reduce set-up costs.

Hints for saving money when setting up

77

Advice is extended to people with a weakened immune system or who have a

history of respiratory or lung disease who are considering working with a

combination of soil and snails.

The use of potting mix and organic soil has been associated with legionnaire’s

disease, a respiratory infection which, in susceptible individuals such as the elderly

and those with particular respiratory conditions, can prove dangerous to humans.

Most infections are acquired by inhalation or from open wounds on the skin and

people on chronic steroid therapy, those with cancer, organ or bone marrow

transplants, or HIV/AIDS are at risk of contracting these infections.

Refer to Department of Employment and Workplace Relations for information

regarding Occupational Health and Safety in the workplace.

Health safety

Use mask and gloves when working in organic soil.

78

If you are serious about farming snails commercially in

Australia, free-range or open pasture snail farming offers many

benefits compared to intensive snail farming methods because

it’s sustainable.

After more than 26 years of research , development and

practical snail farming using many different snail farming

systems, I can without hesitation, recommend free-range snail

farming as the most viable and moral method of snail

production.

Today, people care about how the snails they eat are raised, as

much as how they taste.

The best texture and flavour comes only from snails that have

raised in open pastures of living vegetables and forage crops.

Free-range snail farming is raising snails as nature intended ―

and it’s sustainable and an accepted, agricultural farming

practice. Add some passion and you have a recipe for success.

Footnote: Sonya Begg passed away peacefully at Orange, NSW 31 May 2012.

Sonya Begg Orange NSW

Australia

79

Snail Farming Information Service

Code of Practice

Marketing Strategies

Free-range Snail Farming in Australia

Food Standards Australia and New Zealand

Good Bug Bed

References

Supported by:

80

All rights reserved. No part of this presentation may be reproduced or

transmitted in any form ― electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording,

circulated or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright

owner.

All intellectual property is owned by Sonya Begg, Orange NSW Australia.

Modification or use of any of the content for any purpose is illegal. Requests to

use photos, quotations or extracts from this presentation should be addressed

to the author.

The information contained in this document is based on knowledge and

understanding at the time of writing. It does not warrant or assume any legal

liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any

information, apparatus, product, or process disclosed.

©