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i s s u e n u m b e r 0 0 6 m a y – j u l y 2 0 1 1

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airtel.pdf 4/19/11 5:30:40 PM

Welcome Aboard!

On behalf of all my colleagues at Air Uganda, it is my great pleasure

to welcome you aboard and I thank you for flying with us today.

Our flight crew will do everything humanly possible to make your

flight a pleasant one.

In our effort to raise the ‘safety bar’, Air Uganda has joined the pool of major world

airlines to become IOSA certificated by year 2011. As the IOSA Certification Project

Manager, my primary role is to ensure that this target is achieved.

IATA Operational Safety Audit (IOSA), recognised by the world’s major airlines, is the benchmark for safety.

Its goals are to provide standardised audit programmes of the operational management and control systems of

an airline, based on internationally-recognised standards and supported by a rigorous quality assurance process.

In 2001, the International Air Transport Association (IATA) brought together airlines and industry stakeholders

to develop a global safety programme for its member airlines. By 2003 IATA Operational Safety Audit, IOSA,

was launched, based on over 700 safety and recommended practices. IOSA is based on Globally Harmonised

Standards derived from all relevant airline industry’s best practices for purposes of continuous safety

improvement in participating airlines.

IOSA provides a common set of audit standards that are centrally managed, continuously updated, and

consistently implemented by experts and industry professionals. The standards are in compliance with ISO 9001

Quality Management Systems. With a quality-based programme and independent audit organisations accredited

by IATA, IOSA is effectively raising the ‘safety bar’ in the industry and in Air Uganda in particular.

IOSA certification is now a prerequisite for business transactions under ‘codeshare’ arrangements between

established major international airlines. Leading airlines from all regions have incorporated the IOSA Standards

into their airline operations, as a major component of industry efforts to improve aviation safety.

Air Uganda shall, on IOSA certification, join the pool of major international airlines and offer our esteemed

passengers not only the highest level of safety confidence in the Airline but also enable them the flexibility of travel

connectivity between world class airlines.

Thank you for flying with us and we look forward to serving you again.

Deogratias TondaIOSA Certification Project Manager

EDITORIAL

CONTENTS

Camerapix Magazines Ltd Rukhsana HaqRoger BarnardCecilia W. Gaitho

Sam KimaniFatima Janmohamed Azra Chaudhry, U.K Rose Judha

Rukhsana HaqJenifer B. MusiimeRegina Busingye

Publishers:

Editorial Director:Editor:

Editorial Assistant:

Senior Designer: Design Assistant:

Production Manager: Production Assistant:

Editorial Board:

Behold the giant Equatorial snow-dome

of Mount Kilimanjaro that has confounded

cynics, challenged climbers, and

captivated all who have held it in

their gaze.

20 On The Summit Of Africa

Explore one of the most attractive

towns in Uganda, surrounded by

crater lakes, caves and tea estates.

8 Fort Portal And The Forest Of Toro – A Tourist Paradise

Encounter the intact natural beauty

of the waters of Lake Kivu nestled

in the highlands of Rwanda’s

mountainous landscape, offering

spectacular views.

14 Rwanda’s Rare & Shining Jewel

Discover 10 ways to heal your

home and to make it into a

happy, healthy environment.

38 Heal Your HomeHere is an experience that will attach

itself to your memory for life.

32 Hell And Heaven Originating in the hedgerows of

antiquity, the humble rose of old has

risen to majesterial status among

horticulturists and gardeners alike,

34 Old Roses

The views expressed in this magazine should

only be ascribed to the authors concerned,

and do not necessarily reflect the views

either of the publishers or of Air Uganda.

The printing of an advertisement in Asante

does not necessarily mean that the publishers

or Air Uganda endorse the company, product

or service advertised.

WELCOME ABOARD

ASANTE meaning ‘Thank you’ in Kiswahili

is published quarterly for Air Uganda

by Camerapix Magazines Limited

P.O.Box 45048,00100 GPO Nairobi, Kenya

Telephone: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5

Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 or 4441021

E-mail: [email protected]

Editorial and Advertising Office:

Camerapix Magazines (UK) Limited

32 Friars Walk, Southgate, London, N14 5LP

Tel: +44 (20) 8361 2942

Mobile: +44 79411 21458

E-mail: [email protected]

Correspondance on editorial and advertising

matters may be sent to either of

the above addresses.

©2011

CAMERAPIX MAGAZINES LTD

All rights reserved. No part of this

magazine may be reproduced by any means

without permission in writing from

the publisher.

All photographs by Camerapix unless

otherwise indicated.

Enjoy a wealth of marine life in the

clear warm waters around coral reefs.

Conservation Is The Key For Zanzibar24

Made out of ebony,

the Makonde carvings

are one of the most

timeless, exciting and

valuable art forms to

be discovered.

40 42 44 Animal MagicIf you’re a pet owner, you

already know it: owning a

pet is good for you.

It is often the small

gestures that make

or break a business

relationship.

Abstract Africa

Mind Your Language

28 Coastal DelightsCare to sample the delectable

delights of Swahili cooking?

Regulars

Editorial by IOSA Certification Project Manager, Air Uganda

Book World

News Page

Air Uganda Flight Schedule

Healthy Travelling

Route Map

Offices

Tips for the Traveller

Crossword Puzzle & Sudoku

1

18

46

47

48

49

50

51

52

Cover picture: Forest elephant in Semuliki National Reserve.

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Final Cover.indd 1 4/19/11 3:22:42 PM

Air Uganda is the country’s carrier, underwritten by the

Aga Khan Fund for Economic Development (AKFED). Air

Uganda launched her first flight on 15 November 2007

and continues to grow its operations in East Africa and Southern

Sudan. Air Uganda is also a member of Celestair Group, with

sister airlines in West Africa, Air Burkina, Air Mali, and in

Europe, Meridianafly.

The airline offers flights to six destinations from Entebbe:

Nairobi, Mombasa, Juba, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar and Kigali,

served by 84 flights per week. Air Uganda’s growing fleet

includes two CRJ-200s and two MD-87s. The CRJ-200s are 50-

seaters offering an all-Economy Class service, while the MD-87

has 99 seats with both Economy and Business Class service.

Our vision is to be the leading East African airline in terms of

safety, quality, customer service and punctuality, well placed to

prosper within the open skies of the East African Community. In

line with this vision, Air Uganda is currently repositioning itself

as ‘The Wings of East Africa’. Air Uganda over the years has

continually increased its footprint in the East African region,

offering direct flights out of the Entebbe hub to most of our

destinations. What we can offer today to the East African

traveller is convenience and comfort – making the most of your

opportunities. The campaign is thus designed to focus on the

larger purpose why people fly – to spread ideas, to strike a

partnership, to explore, to connect with their loved ones.

We have noticed a positive trend for air travel in East Africa

with speed and time becoming key essentials to doing business.

Air UgandaThe Wings of East Africa

This portends a greater opportunity for inter-country trade and

linkages. For the aviation industry this is a very clear opportunity,

especially given the poor road and inter-country infrastructure.

What’s also promising is the pace at which the continent itself

is growing, fuelled by a young demographic, credit free cash

economy and financial aid coming from all corners of the world

to accelerate the pace of growth. The promising future is a

shared sentiment amongst staff, the nation and the East African

region: optimism, dreams, desire to make it happen, desire to

do it quickly.

We understand what our clients are passionate about, hence

our efforts to addressing these needs are not restricted to

discounts but cover the best destinations, deals, on-board

service, safety etc. We thus continually strive to offer innovative

solutions that address our customers’ needs. The objective is

to generate preference through initiatives which create affinity

amongst travellers flying for business. We aim at breaking

through the barriers of category stereotypes and consumer

indifferences by introducing a new dimension to a well-

structured market. In doing so, we offer a fresh evaluation of

the existing alternatives.

A service is just a promise, completely invisible. We make

the invisible, visible; that is why we offer you online booking,

let you check in 30 minutes before departure for passengers

with hand luggage only, arrive on schedule and fly direct to

all our destinations; so you do not have to worry about your

travel arrangements

The wings of East Africa

with hand luggage only, you are sure of an unbeatable fl ying experience with us.

We are the Wings that unite East Africa

6 | asante | may – july 2011

may – july 2011 | asante | 7


destination: uganda

Set on the moist, verdant northern footslopes of the

Rwenzori, Fort Portal is one of the most attractive towns in

Uganda, surrounded by crater lakes, caves and tea estates.

It is well placed for visits to the primate-rich Kibale Forest and

scenic Semuliki Valley.

Fort Portal is the capital of the Toro Kingdom, the youngest

of Uganda’s traditional kingdoms, founded around 1825.

Perched on a hill above Fort Portal is the large circular palace built

in the 1960s.

A mere 10 kilometres west of the town, following a dirt road

along the precipitous northern Rwenzori foothills, the Semuliki

Valley opens up in all its geographical immensity. To the immediate

right are the sheer walls of the Rift Escarpment, while the aptly

named Blue Mountains rise to 2,500 metres in the distant

Democratic Republic of Congo. To the left, shrouded in clouds,

rise the austere glacial peaks of the Rwenzori. Cupped within

this imposing natural amphitheatre is the green swathe of the

Ituri Forest, which extends over thousands of square kilometres

into the dark heart of the Congo Basin, while the Semliki River

Western Uganda – accessible by a good tarmac road from Kampala – offers some of the finest tourist attractions in the whole of East Africa, with a number of animal and bird species unique to the area. A good starting point is Fort Portal.

forms an intermittent weave of serpentine silver flowing along the

Congolese border into the distant southern tip of Lake Albert,

shimmering far below.

The Semuliki Valley houses two of Uganda’s most intriguing

and divergent protected areas. Separated by a northern spur

of the Rwenzori foothills, Semuliki Wildlife Reserve consists of

open grassland rolling down to the swampy southern shore of

Lake Albert, while Semuliki National Park protects the Ugandan

extension of the sweltering Ituri Forest, home to a host of species

found nowhere else in East Africa.

Set aside as a forest reserve before it was gazetted in 1993,

the 220 square kilometre (85-square-mile) Semuliki National

Park is relatively untouched by tourism, despite protecting the

country’s only significant stand of tropical lowland forest, which is

characterised by a more diverse vegetation than other Ugandan

forests, and has a moister, denser undergrowth as a result of

having no real ‘dry season’. The local people are the Bamba and

Bakonjo ethnic groups, mainly coffee and cocoa growers. There is

also a small number of Batwa Pygmies, traditional forest dwellers

FORT PORTAL and the Forests of Toro – a Tourist Paradise,explores Asante.

Pho

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© D

avid

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Above:

Pretty crater

lake near Fort

Portal.


destination: uganda

who moved from the forest when it became a national park,

although they continue to gather medicinal plants from within,

and generally welcome visits from the rare passing tourist.

One of the specialised micro-habitats of the park is caused by

the Sempaya hot springs, which erupt from the ground through

a saline stalagmite-like sculpture at a scalding 106°C (223°F).

It is a primeval, evocative sight, linked to the same tectonic activity

that created the Rift Valley and Rwenzori Mountains. The pungent

bubbling water is rich in salt and sulphur, while the surrounding

mud supports a strange lungfish-like creature fed upon by an

unusually large population of shorebirds. Large mammals also

frequent the hot springs, which form a natural salt lick, while

the surrounding forest is good for primates, with grey-cheeked

mangabey, red colobus, black-and-white colobus and red-tailed

monkey all regular. Semuliki is the only East African stronghold for

the water chevrotain, a superficially duiker-like relic of an ancient

ungulate family that shares several structural features with pigs

and is regarded to be ancestral to all modern-day antelopes, deer,

cows and giraffes.

Semuliki is renowned among birdwatchers for its remarkable

checklist of 400 species, which includes 35 from no other locality

in East Africa, among them the immense black-wattled hornbill,

Nkulengu rail, spot-breasted ibis, African piculet and Congo

serpent-eagle. The scarcity of many of these localised specials and

the density of the forest mean that they are not easy to find, which

makes them even more of a challenge to birdwatchers.

Fort Portal is one of the most attractive towns in Uganda,surrounded by crater lakes, caves and tea estates.

Murchison Nile

River hosts so

much wildlife;

buffalo (below

right), crocodiles

and a fantastic

variety of birds.

Above:

Nkusi Falls on

the extreme

side of lake

Albert.

Opposite:

Sunbird, one

of the 400

species of

birds found in

Semuliki.

>>


destination: uganda

Above:

Surrounding

the town of

Fort Portal

are lush tea

plantations.

(Inset) Tea

leaves.

Left:

Nature walk

at Semuliki

National Park.

The truly dedicated could set up a 3-4 day camping trip along the

Kirumia Trail, which follows the river and a series of associated

oxbow lakes to the banks of the Semuliki, where monkeys play in

the trees and elephant and buffalo occasionally come to drink.

The 555 square kilometre (214-square-mile) Semuliki Wildlife

Reserve is Uganda’s oldest protected area, gazetted in 1932

as the Toro Game Reserve. Back then, its legendary abundance

of wildlife included tens of thousands of Uganda kob, numerous

buffalo, the forest race of elephant (so common it was referred to

locally as a ‘Semuliki rat’), and an impressive density of predators

– indeed, the Kenyan hunter Brian Herne once wrote that he had

“never seen so many big lions in other part of Africa”. Semuliki

was devastated by poaching during the years of unrest, but this

trend is slowly reversing, and lion and spotted hyena have both

recolonised the reserve in recent years. The part of Lake Albert

bordering the reserve is one of the top locations for shoebill and

other water-associated birds, ranging from flotillas of great white

pelican to breeding colonies of the dazzling red-throated bee-eater.

Contiguous with Queen Elizabeth National Park to the

southwest, the 766 square kilometre (296-square-mile) Kibale

Forest National Park protects a moist medium-altitude transitional

forest habitat with an extremely diverse fauna and flora, including

some 335 bird, 60 mammal and 145 bird species. Probably the

most accessible of the country’s large forests, it was originally

>>


destination: uganda

>>

Right:

Hot springs

in Semuliki

National

Park, the

bubbling

water is rich

in salt and

sulphur.

1. Staff Outsourcing.2. Staff Recruitment.3. Training and Personal development.4. In-depth staff background checks.

NFT Consult – RWANDAPlot 8721, Golf Course RoadNyarutarama, Kigali.Tel: 250 (0) 252 570099 250 (0) 785119453

NFT Consult – BURUNDIKinanira, Bujumbura, BurundiTel: 257 (0) 79300660

NFT Consult – UGANDAPlot 6/8 Kyaggwe RoadNakasero, Kampala. Tel: 256 (0) 414-237904/24 256 (0) 312-266904

NFT Consult – TANZANIAPlot 304 Ring Street, Mikocheni, Dar es salaam, Tanzania.Tel: +255 22 2773588 +255 22 2773677

your virtual HR departmentNFT CONSULT LTD

General Email: [email protected]: www.nftconsult.com

set aside as the Kibale Forest Corridor

Game Reserve, part of a migratory route

between Queen Elizabeth and Murchison

Falls National Parks for elephant and other

large game.

Today, Kibale Forest is best-known as

Uganda’s premier destination for tracking

habituated chimpanzees. Unfortunately,

this pursuit tends to be a little more

hit-and-miss than gorilla tracking, mainly

because chimps are far less sedentary

creatures than gorillas, often covering

dozens of kilometres daily as they search

for food sources – and they can move

seriously quickly through the tangled forest

undergrowth. You’re most likely to get

lucky during the fruiting season, when

the guides know which trees the chimps

favour, and if you do, these delightful apes,

more closely related to humans than to

any other living creature, are tremendous

fun to watch as they squabble and play in

the canopy.

Chimps aside, Kibale Forest supports

the largest variety and highest density of

primates in Uganda, and has thus been

the site of much behavioural research by

primatologists. The tally of 13 primate

species includes a high density of the red

colobus monkey, which is rare elsewhere

in Uganda, but is easily seen in the

forested environs of Kanyanchu tourist

camp. Also present are black-and-white

colobus, red-tailed monkey, blue monkey,

L’Hoest’s monkey, grey-cheeked mangabey

and olive baboon. Other wildlife includes

bushbuck, red duiker, blue duiker, bush pig, civet, buffalo and giant forest hog which are

present, but rarely seen. In addition, Kibale harbours Uganda’s largest population of forest

elephant, which frequent Kanyanchu for brief periods during the rainy season, but are

almost never seen, though their spoor is abundant.

The ethnic groups who live near the park are the Batoro and the Bakiga, many of whom

grow cash crops – such as coffee – and eucalyptus trees for timber. Many local villages

are also involved in the tourist industry, one such being Bigodi, which lies outside the park >>


Above:

Also of

legendary

abundance in

Semuliki

National

Reserve are

wildlife such

as elephant.

Semuliki is renowned among birdwatchers for its remarkable checklist of 400 species which includes 36 from no other locality in East Africa.

UGANDA

Country: Uganda.

Province: Kabarole.

Kingdom: It is the seat of Toro Kingdom.

Currency: Ugandan shilling (UGX).

Time zone: It is +3 GMT.

Languages: Rutooro, English, and Swahili (Generic).

Population: 46,200 (2010 estimate).

Driving lane: Left.

Climate: Fort Portal is situated at an altitude of about

1,500 metres and is endowed with a cool climate

suitable for growing tea.

Hotels: Many high standard accommodations, providing

both local and international cuisines, are available in and

just outside of town.

ATMs: They can be found in select places. It is best to

have cash.

Calling code: Dial + 256 483, followed by six-digit

local number.

Transport: The Entebbe International Airport

provides both local and international flights and is about

a 30-minute drive from Kampala. Taxis and rental cars

are available at the airport for transport. It takes around

four hours drive, from Kampala to Fort Portal. Also

available are the boda bodas, buses and matatus.

Communications: There are numerous internet cafés

around town. Contact the mobile or cellular phones

service provider to ensure international roaming. Airtime

cards are available everywhere.

Entry requirements: A passport is required by all

and must be valid atleast six months. Prior to visiting

Uganda, contact the Ugandan diplomatic

missions in your home country, or

any Ugandan representative nearest

to you concerning visa.

Health and medical emergencies:

Regarding immunisations and other

precautionary measures, it is best to

contact a travel health professional,

prior to visiting Uganda. Fort Portal

has a hospital and various small

clinics. Medicines and antibiotics are

readily available from pharmacies.

Fact File: Fort Portal, Uganda

destination: uganda

boundaries just five kilometres from Kanyanchu. Adjacent to this

tiny village, the community-owned Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary offers a

great introduction to East Africa’s rainforest fauna. Clear views from

the swamp edge into the gallery forest allow for good sightings of

red colobus, black-and-white colobus, grey-cheeked mangabey,

red-tailed and possibly L’Hoest’s monkey, and the guides really

know their stuff when it comes to the swamp’s varied forest

avifauna, which includes squawking African grey parrot, yellow-

billed and double-toothed barbets, and a trio of colourful turacos.

The nearby Kasenda Crater Lake Field, whose 30 odd lakes are

each a different shade of blue or green, is also serviced by several

excellent community projects, notably the Lake Nkuruba Nature

Reserve, protecting the beautiful jungle-fringed lake for which it is

named. Visitors can go boating on the lakes, the water is safe for

swimming, and the birdlife is prolific.

South of Kibale Forest, the Katonga River forms the southern

boundary of the 208 square kilometre (80 square-mile) Katonga

Game Reserve, which is traversed by the river’s many tributaries.

Only recently developed for tourism, the reserve protects a network

of forest-fringed wetlands along the Katonga River. Best explored

on foot and by canoe, Katonga supports some 40 mammal and

at least 150 bird species, many specific to wetland habitats. Most

visible are elephant, waterbuck, reedbuck, colobus monkeys and

river otter. This is one of the best places in Africa to look for the

elusive sitatunga, a semi-aquatic antelope with webbed hooves that

forages almost exclusively in swamps.

>>


destination: rwanda

RWANDA’S Rare & Shining Jewel

Nestled in the highlands of Rwanda’s mountainous landscape is a small lakeside village set amidst forested peninsulas that jut out into the waters of Lake Kivu. It is the intact natural beauty here that make it Rwanda’s rare and shining jewel, says Helene Thomas.

Pho

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© H

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omas

Kibuye, pronounced, ‘Ki-boo-yeah’, is situated 130

kilometres west of Kigali, Rwanda’s capital city. The road

winds its way through spectacular mountain ranges where

some of the mountain peaks reach dizzying heights.

The Kibuye township sits on the eastern edge of Lake Kivu,

a vast lake that reaches across to the Democratic Republic of

Congo. There are other Rwandan towns situated on this lake,

including Gisenyi to the north and Cyangugu to the south.

Towns in the eastern part of the Democratic Republic of Congo

are also situated on the lake, including Goma, Sake and Bukavu.

It is the largest lake in Rwanda and among the deepest lakes

in the world.

Rwanda is proudly known as the land of a thousand hills,

although if anyone counted, it could easily be a million! Original

forests have, in most areas, been replaced with food crops.

Almost every hill in Rwanda is covered in a patchwork field of

vegetables, tea, coffee or banana plantations. But it is Kibuye’s

densely-forested hills set amidst the tranquil waters of Lake

Kivu that make it unique and attractive to both international

and local visitors.

Kibuye is situated in the Karongi District of the Crete Zaire

Nil region, one of the least populated regions in the country.

Its population is about 150 inhabitants per square kilometre

compared to approximately 300 to 500 inhabitants per square

kilometre for other parts of the country so it is ideal for escaping

crowds and to be at one with nature.

Kibuye has characteristics that make it particularly unique

to Rwanda’s other beach resort town, Gisenyi. Both towns are

situated by the beautiful Lake Kivu, but in Kibuye, the lake can

resemble a vast ocean, and in other parts it can look like a


Rwanda is proudly known as the land of a thousand hills, although if anyone counted, it could easily be a million!

A day can easily be filled by taking a ride on a small wooden

passenger boat and exploring inhabited and uninhabited islands.

Remarkably, some of the islands are inhabited by cows and their

shepherds. When asked how the cows reached the islands in

the first place, the answer seemed somewhat far-fetched, but

perhaps true. The shepherd herded his cattle into the water,

they swam some kilometres with the shepherd calling from a

boat. Other islands, such as Napoleon, are inhabited by bats,

and others by locals who manage cafés, restaurants and

camping grounds. One such island is called the Island of Peace

which features a bar and restaurant, a volleyball net, tents for

overnight camping, a manicured garden, a pebbled path that

joins the main island to a smaller island, and a swing hung from

a tree right on the edge of the lake. The feel of the islands is

imbued with a sense of paradise.

Back on land, Kibuye has a big market on Fridays and a

normal street market other days of the week. Construction is

currently taking place to build an indoor market. There is an

easy walk around Kibuye town which takes in parts of Lake

Kivu and the forested hills which are planted predominantly

with pines and eucalyptus. In fact, Kibuye is nick-named, the

‘Switzerland of Africa’, because of the similarities with that

country’s mountains. >>

destination: rwanda

Opposite:

Part of Lake

Kivu and the

forested hills,

planted

predominantly

with pines and

eucalyptus.

Above:

From the

waters of

Lake Kivu is

a spectacular

view of

Rwanda’s

mountainous

landscape.

gentle winding river as it weaves around mysterious and

uninhabited islands. The emerald-green lagoon-like bays are

unique to this region.

From the waters of Lake Kivu is a spectacular view of Rwanda’s

mountainous landscape: hills upon hills, and a ghostly outline of

some of the country’s highest mountains. Local fishermen venture

out in their hand-carved wooden boats which have long slender

tree trunks that reach out and over to touch the lake’s glassy

surface. By night, their lanterns appear to be small cities dotted

across the lake. On a particularly still evening, a fisherman’s song

can be heard being carried across the waters. The main catch

is Nile tilapia. The hotels in Kibuye feature fresh tilapia on their

menus, and they serve it with vegetables, rice and deep-fried

potato chips.

Perched on the peninsulas in Kibuye are luxury hotels, each

with its own unique view of Lake Kivu and the mountains. Most of

the hotels are situated between three to ten kilometres from the

township. Once you reach your hotel, tranquility awaits you. At

night, the gentle lapping of the lake (and if you listen carefully, the

occasional fisherman’s song) lull you to sleep. By day, a vast range

of bird species sing from the forest canopy and the manicured

hotel gardens. In just a few short hours you become immersed in

the slow-paced way of life that is Kibuye.


Above:

Densely-

forested hills

set amidst the

waters of Lake

Kivu.

On a less light note, there are important landmarks to consider

when visiting Kibuye. There is a genocide memorial that includes nine

small buildings which represent the nine communes that formerly made

up the province of Kibuye. The site has become known as the ‘Hill of

Resistance’ because of the heroic resistance mounted by the people

of Bisesero against their enemies during the 1994 genocide. There are

also two memorial churches, Karongi Catholic Church and Nyange

Catholic Church.

Geographically, the Karongi district is unique and of particular interest

to geographers, mountaineers, climbers, hikers and investors. Western

Rwanda includes part of the highlands that separate the two greatest

river basins of Africa, the Nile and the Congo. Lake Kivu is considered

to be one of Africa’s Great Lakes, and lies within the Albertine Rift of the

Africa’s Great Rift System, ultimately feeding the Congo River. While being

aesthetically beautiful, the lake has other attributes that are of particular

interest to the Rwandan Government and foreign investors. Because of its

location in the rift valley it holds vast quantities of methane gas and has

the potential to give Rwanda about

$ 50 billion a year worth of energy. At a depth of almost 500 metres,

Lake Kivu holds about two-trillion cubic feet of methane resources and

ten-trillion cubic feet of carbon dioxide resources. There is already one

methane extraction plant in Gisenyi with the likelihood of more to come.

Aside from lake activities such as swimming, boating and kayaking,

there are plenty of walks and climbs to do in and around Kibuye. There

is Karongi mountain, the highest mountain in the district, and close by is

Gisovu tea plantation, the biggest tea plantation in Rwanda.

Ever since the road was paved from Kigali, Kibuye has become a

popular weekend getaway for families. If you are seeking the quietest

period, visit Kibuye any time between October and May. The peak season

is June to September which is the long dry season. There are plans to

pave the roads to link Butare and Cyangugu with Kibuye and also Gisenyi.

In the meantime, though, a boat ride from Kibuye to Gisenyi will have you

reaching Rwanda’s other lake resort town faster than by road.

>>

Area: 26,338 square kilometres.

Capital city: Kigali.

Language: English, French,

Kinyarwanda (Kiswahili is also widely spoken).

Official currency: Rwanda Franc (R).

Time zone: Rwanda is two hours ahead of GMT.

Climate: Rwanda has a temperate tropical

highland climate. Rwanda’s altitude ranges from

1,500-2,500 metres on the average. Rwanda enjoys

warm temperatures that vary with regions. There are

two annual rainy seasons: from February to June and

from September to December.

Hotels and Restaurants: Hotels and restaurants are

abundant in Rwanda. However, it is advisable to book

hotel reservations in advance. Credit cards are usually

only accepted at the major hotels in Kigali.

ATMs: One can withdraw a limited amount of money

per day using ATM card. However, the ATMs do not

accept international cards. Payments are made mainly

in cash.

Calling code: The international calling code for Rwanda

is +250.

Transport: Rwanda International Airport in Kigali

provides both domestic and international flights. It is

10 kilometres from the city centre. Also available in all

major centres are local and luxury bus services as well

as Air charter services offered anywhere in the country.

Driving is on the right hand side. An International

Driving License is mandatory.

Communications: Rwanda has a superb cell phone

network that covers nearly the entire country thereby

easing both local and international phone calls.

Appropriate SIM cards for the network are

plenteous throughout the country and cell phones

can be purchased or rented from major shops in Kigali.

Also accessible are several internet cafés and

computer centres.

Entry requirements: Passport is required by all.

Check with your nearest embassy for current visa

requirements. Entry tourist visa is issued at the exit

point of Kigali Airport to all citizens with a valid passport

of more that six months from the expiring date.

Health: There is no compulsory vaccination for

travelling to Rwanda. It is advisable for a traveller to

update vaccinations like cholera, tetanus, hepatitis A

and meningitis.

Fact File: RwandaRWANDA

destination: rwanda

Fact File: Rwanda


For more information contact: Books ’R’ Us LTD. | P.O. Box 45048, 00100 G.P.O. Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5 | Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 or 4441021 Email: [email protected] • www.camerapixpublishers.com

Books‘R’UsA diverse range of general interest books giving fascinating

accounts of animal behaviour and capturing the fleeting and

dramatic moments of African wildlife in splendid photographs.

In the wild, time unfolds in a series

of fleeting and sometimes dramatic

moments – a crocodile seizes a drinking

zebra, a fleeing impala soars above

its fellows in a huge bound, an eagle

snatches a fish from the lake surface,

elephant and white rhino clash at a

waterhole.

All these moments, and many more,

are captured in East Africa Alive as it

explores the ancient themes of courtship

and birth, conflict and rivalry, life and

death. Each theme is introduced by an

authoritative text and illustrated with

some of the best photos ever taken in

East Africa. Detailed, descriptive captions

accompany the images.

Here is East Africa, more alive than

you’ve ever seen it before.

Loveliest of the great wild cats, the

cheetah is poetry in motion, a blurred

streak of graceful ferocity and a sauntering

portrait of fluid beauty. They threaten no

man and kill only for food. But the world’s

fastest animal is under threat from fellow

predators and ecological change.

This is one of the most unusual and

moving stories of animal behaviour.

Kathrine and Karl Ammann devoted

two years to the study of cheetah and

their movements in the wild of the

Maasai Mara, a remote and hauntingly

beautiful corner of Kenya. This account

of their life among the cheetah forms a

compelling and poignant narrative.

While working in the Mara, the Ammanns

discovered their photographic talents.

Their fascinating story is brought to life

by some of the best colour pictures ever

taken of any predator, anywhere.

East Africa AliveDuncan Willetts and John DawsonISBN: 1 904722 14 8

book world

The Spotted OneKathrine and Karl AmmannISBN: 1 904722 22 9

The Hunters & The HuntedKathrine and Karl Ammann ISBN: 1 904722 23 7

Never before has African wildlife been

illustrated with such power and drama.

Here, in marvellous sequences, the

reader can follow the stalk, the hunt and

the kill of the lion cheetah, wild dog, and

many other animals, witnessed at first

hand and captured in this superb series

of colour photographs.

The text, in collaboration with Ian Parker,

is both lively and authoritative and is

based on startling new evidence about

how these predators interact. Such

profound understanding of their subject

is the secret of the Ammanns’ success

as photographers. In this remarkable

book, the world of The Hunters & The

Hunted is brought vividly to life.


Stay focussed on your business, while we take care of your flight.We offer online booking, allow you to check in 30 minutes before departure for

passengers with hand luggage only, fly direct and on schedule to all our destinations, so that you don’t have to stress about your travel arrangements.

We are the Wings that help you explore opportunities

The wings of East Africa


destination: tanzania

On the Summit of AFRICA

Pho

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© D

avid

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Cam

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agaz

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The giant Equatorial snow-dome of Mount Kilimanjaro has confounded cynics, challenged climbers, and captivated all who have held it in their gaze. “It’s small wonder”, says Mambo Gichuki, “that it’s considered one of the great mountains of the world”.


Far below us the sun burst over the eastern plains in a

spectacular shower of celestial diamonds. In the shadows

to the west the lights of Moshi began to flicker out one by

one. My guide breathed with pleasure. It was a long, drawn-out

breath, but not as laboured or as ragged as those of the party

he had just led up the last 914 metres (3,000 feet) of Mount

Kilimanjaro in darkness.

As a tourist attraction ‘Kili’ is one of Africa’s major drawcards.

More than 5,000 climbers – from seven-year old siblings to

70-year-old grandfathers – test their stamina on its slopes

each year. And more are always on the way.

Grand, majestic and seemingly inviolable, Africa’s highest

mountain rises out of the hot dusty plains on Tanzania’s northern

border with Kenya. Ringed by an almost constant wreath of

clouds – court attendants to this Queen of Mountains – its

dome-shaped ice-capped peak floats in the sky, a shimmering,

disembodied phantom.

But no ghosts ever had such substance as Kilimanjaro.

One of the largest volcanoes ever to burst through the earth’s

crust, this is the highest free-standing mountain in the world.

Just three degrees south of the Equator, glaciers stream down

its flanks from a lofty snowcap almost six kilometres (four miles)

high. On a clear day, the summit can be seen more than 160

kilometres away.

Within its great massif, in contrasting humid and icy

embraces, Kilimanjaro encapsulates the world in miniature. In

the space of three days, the climber passes from the Equator to

the Arctic: through montane forest, moorland heath and alpine

desert to a barren world of snow and ice. The trekker traces

Nature’s evolution in reverse, from the animals of the forest to

the first stirrings of bacterial life on the summit.

Yet Kilimanjaro remained shrouded in mystery, unknown to the

outside world, until little over a century and a half ago. The first

written reference to it, without sight, was made by the second

century geographer Ptolemy in his classic Geography. The greek

referred to a ‘great snow mountain’ hidden in the African interior.

Thirteen centuries later, the Portuguese geographer, Fernandes

de Encisco, noted that west of Mombasa lay ‘the Ethiopian

Mount Olympus which is very high’.

The first European known to have beheld its gleaming snows

was a German missionary, Johannes Rebmann, who was serving

in the British Church Missionary society. Told of a high mountain

called ‘Kilimsharo’ in the land of ‘Jagga’, in 1848, protected only

by an umbrella and his Bible, he set off from Mombasa to find it.

He caught his first glimpse of the summit on may 11th of

that year, but when he reported it to Europe he was ridiculed for

suggesting that a mountain near the Equator could be capped

with eternal snow. It was 13 years before Rebmann’s sighting

was confirmed by another German, Karon Klaus von der Decken,

and a young British geologist, Richard Thornton.

Since then, countless thousands have been lured and

enchanted by the flawless symmetry of this graceful mountain

adrift in the startling blue of the African sky.


>>

Mount

Mawenzi at

dawn from

across the

saddle.


>>


As the continent’s highest mountain, Kilimanjaro is in fact

a relative newcomer. A million years ago it did not exist. It was

born in a series of spectacular explosions that gave its sister

peak – saw-edged Mawenzi, which climbs to about 5,148 metres

(16,890 feet) – its now familiar appearance.

In an eruption 360,000 years ago, lava surged across what is

now the saddle to Mawenzi. About 100,000 years ago, a huge

avalanche at the summit breached the south-west crater and

formed a spectacular precipice. Eventually magma withdrew from

the central vent and with a final belch of fire from its expiring

depths placed a perfect cone of ash around its rim. Born out of

ice and fire, Kilimanjaro’s latent forces are only asleep and the

snows are in rapid retreat.

Hans Meyer, who became the first man to climb the highest

point, Kibo, in 1887, found snowdrifts almost 1.8 metres

(six feet) deep on the southern slopes of the 4,572 metre

(15,000 feet high) saddle. Today, the saddle is a sterile desert,

brown-bare, and the crater above is often naked.

Nonetheless, one-fifth of all Africa’s ice is still held in

Kilimanjaro’s four square kilometres of glaciers. On such a high

mountain, the weather changes rapidly. From March to May,

the south-west monsoon rains fall on the southern slopes, and

the lighter rains of the north-east monsoons water the northern

slopes at the end of the year.

The climate at the crest of the mountain contradicts that lower

down: a dry North-East wind blows between May and October,

causing most precipitation to fall on the south-western slopes.

More than that, it sucks dry the clouds which cling to the southern

slopes, leaving the summit bathed in bright sunshine while a halo

of cloud encircles the lower slopes.

While almost 2,540 millimetres of rain fall on its forested lower

slopes each year, only 533 millimetres nourish the heather and

groundsel at 3,657.6 metres (12,000 feet) – and the summit

only received some 127 millimetres (five inches.) Thus the

crowning glory that glistening ice-cap, is swiftly disappearing.

Fading or not, Kilimanjaro’s summit draws an endless

procession of climbers, from young backpackers and families to

hardened professional mountaineers. There are nine routes

to the summit from the south and the west, all passing through

different sections of the moorland and glaciers that make up

the 765-square-kilometre Kilimanjaro National Park. The remote

southern and south-western faces of Kibo offer some of the

world’s toughest climbing routes – particularly those crossing

the Decker, Kerstein and Heim glaciers.

The world’s greatest living climber, Reinhold Massner, spent

many weeks on Kibo in 1978 to acclimatise himself for the first

successful ascent of Mount Everest without oxygen. With K.

Renzler, he became the first to climb Kibo’s sheer 1,524 metre

(5,000 feet) Breach Wall, which, with its huge icicle, hangs from

the Diamond Glacier. Later he said it was the hardest climb he

had ever done.

The summit of Kilimanjaro can, however, be reached from the

eastern slopes by any reasonably fit person – of any age. The

youngest climber so far was an 11-year-old, the oldest 74!

People in their 60s regularly step it out and the mountain has

been scaled by several blind climbers raising funds for charity.

Above left:

Climbers

passing the

Furtwangler

Glacier on

their way to

the summit.

Above:

Climbers

enjoying

breakfast in

front of the

Lava Tower.


A motorcyclist has broken its bewitching silence, and skiers

have glissaded down the inside of its steaming crater.

Hang-gliding enthusiasts have also launched themselves from

the summit – one never to be seen again.

The easiest and most popular route, covering 80 kilometres

from the base at Marangu, takes five days to trek to the top and

back again. Technically straightforward, it is nonetheless grueling.

Bad weather can make the mountain dangerous. When cloud

descends, it’s easy to get lost. Several climbers have also fallen

foul of the effects of oxygen starvation, which carries very real

risks for the fit and unfit alike.

The busiest climbing seasons are December to February,

when the mountain is often clear of cloud, and July and August.

Food must be carried, as well as wood and water for one’s final

night on the mountain. The park maintains excellent huts at the

three points on the climb and has a well-trained rescue team to

ensure the mountain is scaled in comfort and safety.

But the experiences garnered during the three-day ascent,

through the unique forest, and across the heather with its

magnificent views of Kibo and Mawenzi, to the breathtaking

eruption of dawn as the sun bursts over the rim of the world

at the summit, are reward enough for the effort.

From the summit the whole of Africa stretches away at your

feet. Inside the crater, however, the mood is eerie, a primordial

place evoking the kind of environment that must have existed at

the very beginning of life on earth. Within the crater is a

perfectly shaped ash cone with a central pit almost 152.4 metres

(500 feet) deep. Forty kilometres down its vent, molten rock

heaves and boils, perhaps one day to burst forth again and build

the mountain anew.

Kilimanjaro is only sleeping.


Above:

The snow

covered

Mount

Kilimanjaro

Maasailand

on the Kenyan

side of the

border.

Area: 945,097 square kilometres.

Capital city: Dodoma.

Official language: Swahili, although English is widely spoken

and understood.

Official currency: Tanzanian Shilling (TSh).

Time zone: It is three hours ahead of Greenwich Mean

Time (GMT +3).

Climate: Enjoys tropical climate which varies according to

altitude. The rainy seasons in Tanzania are from March to

May and November to December. Temperature ranges

from 23-30 °C.

Hotels and restaurants: There is abundant accommodation

that suits the tastes and needs of various travellers; ranging

from luxury and standard hotels to guest houses, lodges and

bungalows. Hotels and lodges usually offer internet, fax and

phone service. Plenteous restaurants offer both local and

international cuisines.

ATMs: Numerous ATMs are found in all major towns.

Credit cards and cheques: Tanzania has a cash-based

economy; cash is more readily accepted than traveller‘s

cheques. Credit cards are accepted on a limited basis.

Calling code: The international calling code is +255.

Transport: Both Dar es Salaam and Kilimanjaro International

airports provide local and international flights. A popular

way to move around the city or shorter distances between

towns is with a dala-dalla (minibus). Bicycle-taxis and private

taxis are also available at a negotiable fare.

Communications: Mobile or cellular phones are widely

used in the main urban areas of Tanzania. Travellers are

advised to contact their service provider to ensure they have

international roaming. There is relatively fast and cheap

internet connection with internet cafés present in most of

the major cities. Postal services are also available.

Entry requirements: A passport is required by all. It is

advisable to check with the Tanzanian Embassy in your

home country, or any Tanzanian representative nearest to

you concerning visa.

Health: When travelling to Tanzania, it is best to contact a

travel health professional well before travelling, for the latest

information on health and vaccination recommendations.

Also a personal medical insurance is advisable.

Fact File: TanzaniaTANZANIA


Most of Zanzibar’s visitors these

days arrive by plane rather

than ship, and so they miss

the sight of Zanzibar’s famous Stone

Town waterfront that greeted renowned

travellers such as Marco Polo, David

Livingstone, and Sir Richard Burton. That’s

a pity, because even today, it is something

to be seen. Unmarred by high-rise office

blocks or hotels, huge construction cranes,

power station chimneys or the oil terminals

that disfigure many ports these days, the

skyline of Stone Town, its capital and main

port, has changed little for centuries, and

is still Zanzibar’s main attraction. Highlights

include the minarets of its numerous

mosques, two cathedral spires (Anglican

and Roman Catholic), the battlements of

the Portuguese fort and of course the

palaces of the Sultans of Zanzibar. It is this

rich cultural heritage, as well as the island’s

natural beauty and unique wildlife that the

people of Zanzibar are now, after years of

neglect, making heroic efforts to preserve.

Zanzibar is politically part of Tanzania,

and UNESCO (United Nations Educational,

Scientific and cultural Organization)

declared the historic centre of Stone

Town a World Heritage Site, calling it ‘an

outstanding material manifestation of

cultural fusion and harmonisation’. The

cultural fusion referred to here is that

unique 1,000-year blending of Arabia,

Africa and India which developed along

the East African coast, now known as the

Swahili culture. Other examples of Swahili

‘material manifestations’ along the coast,

from the Horn of Africa as far south as

the Comores, include Mombasa Old Town,

Malindi and Lamu, but Zanzibar was in its

time the most powerful trading post in the

entire area, and the size and scale of Stone

Town reflects this.

The name Stone Town itself gives a clue

as to how the old town survived for so

long. The rock of Zanzibar island is mainly

a kind of limestone formed from coral,

called coralline rag, which can be cut into

building blocks quite easily with simple

tools. Merchants grown rich on trade with

the African interior to the Middle East and

beyond, built themselves splendidly solid

houses of several storeys, adorned by airy

destination: zanzibar

Conservation is the Key for

by Kate Nivison.Pho

to ©

Cam

erap

ixZanzibar

Large dhow

along the

Tanzanian

coast, the

basic design

has scarcely

changed in

thousands

of years.


Above:

A narrow

street, typical

of Stone

Town.

Right:

Young Muslim

girl in

Stone Town.

balconies and wooden-latticed zenana quarters for their wives.

Everyone wanted to be near the waterfront, the source of both

their income and welcome breezes, so the houses were packed

together in narrow streets and more or less held each other up.

Even the walls of lesser houses had an infill of coralline cobbles

within a stout wooden or stone framework – a big improvement

on mud bricks. But even the stone had long-term drawbacks.

Zanzibar has plenty of rain, and the coralline rock is not only

porous, but badly affected by air pollution. By the 1960s, the Old

Town was very run-down and most of the buildings, including the

Sultan’s Palace, the House of Wonders, and the Old Dispensary

were in urgent need of restoration. With political instability in the

air, visitors were often disappointed by the decay and litter in this

most exotic-sounding of destinations.

Since Islam is the dominant religion here, interested

benefactors included the Aga Khan, and things began to improve.

The Old Dispensary is now a wonderful sight, and houses the

Stone Town Conservation Authority and a restaurant with

wonderful waterfront views. The House of Wonders is open again,

as is the Palace Museum next door, and the Fort. Major hotels

in Stone Town such as the Zanzibar Serena Inn, Tembo House

and the Dhow Palace Hotel are in renovated buildings, and their

interiors are even richer than their former merchant owners

would have believed. As far as possible, the work is done by local

craftsmen who still have the skills in stone and woodworking

inherited from their ancestors.

Some of the most photographed features in Stone Town are

its doors. There are over 500 of these imposing pieces of the

woodcarvers’ art. Stone Town’s numerous unofficial ‘guides’

will tell you that the pointed brass bosses or iron spikes were

protection against elephants pushing down the doors. Not such a

fantasy, apparently, since a 10th century Arab traveller reported

that Zanzibar was ‘rich in elephants’, and the Venetian explorer

Marco Polo mentioned them in 1295. Perhaps these were native

elephants, survivors from the time when the island was part of the

African mainland. Or possibly they were the domesticated ones

transported, with some difficulty by cargo dhow from India.

Sadly, the Zanzibar elephants seem to have disappeared some

time ago, since the British and Portuguese records don’t mention

their presence at all. Certainly ivory from the continental interior

vied with slaves to make Zanzibar the East Coast’s main trading

post during the 19th century, and local elephants would not have

stood a chance.

Other native animals, some of them very rare and found only in

Zanzibar, have been a little luckier, so apart from conserving its

cultural heritage, the authorities are also keen to preserve what is

left of the wildlife. The island even has its own variety of leopard,

although sightings are now very rare. There is also the shy civet

cat, the not-so-shy mongoose, two species of monkey, including

the red colobus, and forest lemur, pig, duiker and pygmy antelope.

On a still smaller scale, Zanzibar boasts 20 species of bat, 30

forms of snake, and its own kind of chameleon. Around 100

species of birds have also been identified.


>>

Pho

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Cam

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Pho

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Cam

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For an island only 86 kilometres long and 39 kilometres wide,

this is quite a respectable tally. It is very fortunate that so many

species have survived long enough to be around when there is at

last some real interest in conserving them.

One of the main problems for wildlife conservation everywhere

is the attitude of local people towards the creatures around them.

Unfortunately in Zanzibar local superstition dictates that some

perfectly harmless creatures like the chameleon should be killed

on sight because they are thought to be inherently evil. In rural

areas people still believe that the only cure for a chameleon bite is

to commit incest – a thought so horrific that getting them before

they get you is seen as a duty.

This is where education comes in. In the centre of the island,

at the Zala Reptile Park not far from the Jozani Natural Forest

Reserve, one retired teacher has set up a scheme for teaching

children about the local animals. Here, local people and visitors

alike are introduced to the various types of snakes and other

reptiles, whether native or not. Teasing or random feeding are

not allowed, but questions are encouraged. People quickly learn

which ones are dangerous, which are harmless, and which

ones to encourage to keep down insect pests including the

much-maligned chameleon. This wholly commendable scheme

is not government funded, and relies on donations from passing

tourists to keep it going.

The Jozani Natural Forest Reserve also relies to a large

extent on visitors eager to see the handsome Kirk’s red colobus

monkeys that are unique to Zanzibar, and if they are lucky, bush

pigs and various kinds of small buck. But it is the red colobus

that is the star of the show. Although wild, they seem to positively

enjoy showing off for the camera, and aren’t at all aggressive.

Again, feeding is not allowed because these monkeys share a

characteristic with those of their human cousins who are diabetic


>>

Pho

to c

ourt

esy

Wik

imed

ia


Area: It is 984 square kilometres.

Official language: Both Swahili and English are the official

languages.

Official currency: Tanzanian Shilling (TSh).

Time zone: It is +3 GMT.

Climate: Enjoys tropical climate largely dominated by the Indian

Ocean monsoons. The rainy season is from March to May.

Temperature ranges from 24-27°C.

Hotels and restaurants: As an island destination, Zanzibar offers a

wide array of accommodation including hotels, guest houses, beach

resorts and island getaways. Restaurants offer locally available

foods such as seafood delicacies.

ATMs: Available at various sites in Zanzibar.

Credit cards and cheques: Traveller’s cheques are accepted at

large hotels and restaurants. They can be exchanged for local

currencies at Bureaux de Change provided one has a passport and

the cheques are properly signed. Credit cards can be used at larger

establishments; however it is advisable to use cash for payments.

Calling code: + 255 24, followed by seven-digit local number.

Transport: Zanzibar Airport provides both local and international

flights. Zanzibar enjoys a thriving sea transport network.

Fact File: ZanzibarLocal buses (known as daladalas), taxis and

minibuses are available throughout the entire

island. It is possible to hire a vehicle provided one

has an International Driver’s Permit. Whilst hiring

motorcycles travellers are advised to ensure a crash-helmet for

safety purposes.

Communications: Nearly all internet and mobile companies served

in Mainland Tanzania are available in Zanzibar.

Entry requirements: A passport is required by all. Zanzibar is part

of Tanzania so visa requirements are the same. Prior to visiting,

contact the Tanzanian Embassy, High Commission or Consulate in

your home country, or any Tanzanian representative nearest to you

concerning visa.

Health: It is best to contact a travel health professional well before

travelling, concerning immunisations prior to visiting Zanzibar.

It is advisable to ensure precautionary measures against malaria.

Customs: As Zanzibar is largely Muslim with a rich Swahili

culture, it is best to dress modestly. Smoking in public

places as well as nude and topless sunbathing is

prohibited. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter

any of Zanzibar’s many mosques unless invited.

ZANZIBAR

– they cannot digest the sugars found in many foodstuffs.

Their diet consists largely of the leaves of the Indian Almond tree,

and they have developed the habit of nibbling charcoal to help their

delicate digestions. Maintaining plenty of Indian Almond trees is

obviously a priority for the conservationists here, and the cover

they provide also helps the survival of other forest species.

Zanzibar has a wealth of marine life in the clear warm waters

round its numerous coral reefs, and conserving it is now a matter

of hard economics. Traditional fishermen need to feed their

families, and there is now a steady demand for seafood from the

hotels. But increasing numbers of scuba divers and snorkellers

now come to the island to enjoy the underwater scene. At Nungwi

in the north, the villagers have started a sanctuary for injured

turtles and other large marine creatures, to nurse them back to

health and then release them, to the benefit of all concerned.

At the Ras Nungwi Beach Resort, eco-tourism is now

the watchword, using local materials to blend in with the

surroundings, and ensuring as little disturbance to the natural

environment as possible. Visitors are gently cautioned not to

offend Islamic sensibilities by their dress, intrusive photography

or public displays of alcohol consumption. Hopefully they will

return home feeling that they have been part of a shared

experience, rather than cause disruption to local life. It seems

unlikely now that Zanzibar will fall prey to the kind of high-rise,

intrusive development that has plagued other areas, but will

continue to attract the kind of people who appreciate this gentler,

more concerned approach.


Opposite:

Waterfront

in Zanzibar

town. The

buildings are

reminiscent

of a blend of

cultures.

Right:

Famed

carved door

of Zanzibar.

Zanzibar has a wealth of marine life in the clear warmwaters round its numerous coral reefs.

Pho

to ©

Cam

erap

ix


Coastal DelightsFelix Huwyler samples the delectable delights of Swahili cooking.

The Kenyan coast is famous for many things – palm-fringed beaches, rich

history, distinctive architecture, and some of Africa’s friendliest people. But, as

more and more visitors are discovering, it is also home to a unique cuisine – a

delicious blend of exotic tastes and simple cooking methods.

food

Like many other aspects of life on the Kenyan coast, the

local cooking is a distillation of the many influences that have

arrived on these shores since the first traders plied the gentle

‘heartbeat’ of the Indian Ocean monsoon. According to some

estimates, traders have been visiting the Kenyan coast for

over 4,000 years. But the emergence of the Swahili culture as

we know it today dates back only to around 800 AD, when the

Shirazi people of Persia first brought Islam to East Africa.

For centuries, the kazkazi wind carried dhows laden with

gold, ivory, cloves and other treasures (including slaves) from

Zanzibar, Bagamoyo and Lamu. They returned on the kuzi with

cargoes of cloth, porcelain, and other goods for barter. They

also brought spices, exotic vegetables and their own recipes

and cooking methods.

This happy melange of African, Arab and Oriental influences

is reflected in today’s widely acclaimed Swahili cuisine. The

emphasis is on fresh natural ingredients, simply cooked, with

an exotic touch of spice. Apart from the relatively rich coconut

sauce dishes, most of the food is fairly light and, therefore,

ideal for the tropical climate.

Full use is made of the wide variety of seafood, meat,

poultry and other produce available on the coast. The range

of seafood, in particular, is quite staggering, including rock

lobster, tiger prawns, oysters, squid, octopus, rock cod, sea

bream, grey mullet, red snapper, sailfish and tuna – all melt-in-

your-mouth fresh.

Vegetable dishes might include plantains (matoke), cassava

(muhogo), yams (viazi vikubwa), eggplant (birganya) or spinach

(mchicha). The eastern, mainly Indian influence is found

in chapatis and many rice dishes, using the pishori rice

originally from Pakistan but now grown in Africa, with

side dishes of pickles and chutneys made from mangoes,

limes, chillies and coconut.

Naturally, a wide range of spices are used – although

usually with a light touch. These include cardamom, ginger,

garlic, coriander (dhania) and turmeric.

The main traditional cooking methods are grilling, baking in

leaves, or frying in a traditional karai (a sort of Africanwok).

An eastern touch is also evident in the fact that the main

dishes are all served together, so there are no courses

as such. Visitors are often delighted by the attractive

presentation in small dishes, or clay pots, usually on brass

trays or on top of brightly coloured cloths (kikoi).

Sweets can feature a rather stark choice between the

wide variety of available fresh fruit or syrupy sweetmeats

and fudges – definitely not for the weight-watcher! And the

finale to a meal is the serving of coffee (kahawa), perhaps

spiced with cardamom and ginger, from the traditional

conical Arabic pot.

The delights of Swahili cooking are now being ‘discovered’

by more visitors to Kenya as an increasing number of hotels

and restaurants are adding innovative local dishes to their

Western-style buffets – and wishing their guests “furahia

chakula chako!”.

Pho

tos

© C

amer

apix


food

A Taste of Swahili CuisineSome recipes supplied by Felix Huwylre, which will provide

you with a taste of the simple yet tantalising cuisine of the

East African Coast.

Coconut Turmeric Sauce 1/2 litre

Ingredients

10 g garlic, chopped

5 g ginger, peeled, chopped

1/2 chilli, fresh chopped or pound in a motar until pastelike

20 g fresh coriander leaves or finely chop

2 cardamom seeds

30 g butter

60 g onions

1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder

500 ml coconut milk, first press

1 pinch salt

Little black pepper

Preparation

1. Heat butter and glaze onions, add turmeric powder and then

the pounded items.

2. Gently cook all items at low heat.

3. Add coconut milk and gently simmer for 20 minutes.

This sauce is now ready for further use (lobsters, prawns,

fish, chicken dishes). If the sauce is a bit too thin, it should

be thickened with a little cornstarch mixed with coconut milk.

Lobster in Coconut Turmeric Sauce(Kamba wa Nazi na Manjano) Serves four.

Ingredients

2 lobsters at 1 kg to 1.2 kg each

20 g butter

1 bunch fresh coriander, chopped roughly

500 ml coconut turmeric sauce (see below)

Salt/pepper

Preparation

1. Split lobsters lengthwise into halves using a large sharp

knife.

2. Remove tail flesh, remove the centre and cut flesh

into one-inch cubes.

3. Clean the shell by removing the intestines, rinse,

dry and place into the oven to dry.

4. Meanwhile, heat the butter in a saucepan, season

the lobster cubes with salt and pepper and gently toss

in the butter until half done.

5. Add the coconut turmeric sauce and gently simmer

for a minute and evenly fill into the hot shells. Sprinkle

with the coriander and serve.

Coconut Spinach (Mchicha wa Nazi)Serves four.

Ingredients

2 tablespoon vegetable oil or butter

30 g onions, finely chopped

50 g ginger, fresh, chopped

1/4 chilli, fresh, chopped (without seeds)

125 ml coconut milk, first press

1 pinch salt

1/2 kg spinach, stalks removed, washed

Preparation

1. Heat oil in a stewing pan, add onions, ginger and chillies

and fry quickly.

2. Add coconut milk and bring everything to the boil, add

spinach leaves and cover. Add salt.

3. Lower heat and gently simmer for about five minutes.

Preparation of coconut milk

1. Split coconut in half, remove coconut water and set aside.

2. Remove flesh from shell and grate finely*.

3. Place grated coconut into a strong piece of cloth and

twist hard to squeeze out the milk. Open cloth, pour coco-

nut water on it, and repeat the extraction process.

4. Place coconut in a bowl and pour a little boiling water on

it – repeat the process, pressing. This milk is weaker and

may be used for curries, sauces, etc.

*This can also be done in a kitchen blender by cutting

the coconut flesh into slices and using the coconut water

obtained after splitting coconut (see step 1) >>


Grilled Thaffi (Samaki wa Kupaka)Serves four.

Thaffi is fish of average size (about eight inches long) found

along the Kenyan coast, with a smooth scale-free skin,

silvery in colour. However, any fish can be used for the

following recipe. If necessary, scale the fish after gutting

and cut away the fins. Make incision cuts on both sides of

fish to allow the marinade to penetrate well. You may also

use fish fillets (with the skin left on), so incision cuts are not

necessary. These are better baked in the oven.

Ingredients

4 whole fish

Salt to taste

Oil

Marinade

Preparation

1. Rub the marinade into the fish and allow to marinate

for about six hours. Do not use salt in the marinade

since this will draw water from the tissue of the fish,

making it dry.

2. Remove fish from marinade, sprinkle it on both sides

with salt then dip it in a little oil and gently grill it on both

sides until done. Serve on a large flat platter with the

coconut sauce separate.

Preparation of Marinade Mix the following ingredients

10 g chopped garlic

50 g onions, chopped

1 teaspoon turmeric powder

1 chilli small, chopped

1 handful fresh coriander leaves

20 g tomato paste

2 tablespoon oil

Some ground black pepper

Marinated Grilled Chicken (Kuku Paka)Serves four.

Ingredients

1 large chicken (2 legs, 2 breasts)

2 tablespoon oil

15 g garlic, chopped roughly

15 g fresh ginger, chopped roughly

2 tomatoes, sliced

1 green pepper, cleaned, sliced

1 medium onion

2 lime (juice)

2 coconuts (for milk see recipe of coconut spinach)

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Preparation

1. Place garlic, ginger, tomatoes, pepper, onions and lime juice

in the mortar and pound until fine. (This can also be done in

a blender.)

2. Remove skin from chicken, season with salt and

pepper, brush with oil and gently grill on a charcoal grill,

half-cooked.

3. Put remaining oil into a pan and gently fry the pounded

mix, add the coconut milk and simmer together for

5-10 minutes.

4. Remove the grilled chicken pieces and place them in

the sauce, bring back to boiling point and keep hot and

serve as soon as chicken is cooked through.

Serve with steamed rice.

Cardamom Fudge

Ingredients

1/2 kg - 30 pieces

1 litre milk (fresh or pasteurised)

400 g sugar

8 cardamom pods

Preparation

1. Place cardamom pods in a mortar and crush to remove

seeds.

2. Put all the ingredients in a pot and boil, stirring constantly

until very thick. It will appear like caramel. To test, add

a little cold water – it must become a solid little ball.

3. Pour on an oiled baking tray, allow to cool a little,

then cut with a sharp knife into 2 cm squares.

food

>>


Above:

Hell’s Gate

features tall

cliffs that

offer rigorous

tests for rock

climbers.

We were in the belly of the earth, in the second circle

The earth had opened to reveal a deep pit, filled with shades.

Here, my guide told me, resided the shadows.

Canto XIV

The earth began to close in as we descended the final few

steps to the shimmering floor of the Great Rift Valley.

Under the relentless glare of the Equatorial sun, we

stepped, Dante-like, across the threshold of the Gate of Hell,

accompanied by our guide and a dozen other souls filled with

earthly wonder.

Officially known as the Mount Longonot and Hell’s Gate

National Parks, this 120-square-kilometre wonderland northwest

of Nairobi is famous for the thrilling walks that skirt its sheer

red cliffs. The highest point in the parks is the peak of Mount

Longonot, a spectacular volcanic crater whose lopsided rim

climbs to 3,321 metres and descends to

2,187 metres, making it a relatively easy

climb – or so some say!

Ol Njorowa Gorge, more commonly

known as Hell’s Gate, is home to a series

feature

ell and eavenH

After a steep slog through a stinking earthly purgatory, Marie-Anne Kinyanjui discovers a sweet new sanctuary on the roof of the world.

of surreal hot springs, which gasp steam and an unforgettable

sulphuric stench. Some of the springs in the gorge are boiling

hot, as if the fires of Hell lurk directly beneath them. The gorge’s

violent origins are everywhere evident in huge piles of coarse

volcanic rocks, among which glint great lumps of the tough glassy

black rock, obsidian.

Our descent began down a steep, stony path into the gorge,

where the main challenge was trying to stay upright. I had the

perverse pleasure of watching a member of our group (the kind

who insist that every insect is carrying the Black Death and is out

to get them) slide down the steep slope. Although the smell of

rotten eggs attacks you as you pass through the gorge, the sight

of the earth spitting boiling water can be quite compelling. “It’s as

though the trapped souls below are burrowing upwards to escape

the prods of the Devil’s fork,” said a particularly poetic member of

the group. I just found it fascinating.

Our guide obviously agreed. Holding a large three-pronged

stick, he stood surveying his kingdom, undaunted by the smell

and chattering to us about physics, geography and eagles – a

lovely oratory that I missed most of because I was too busy ogling

the plants that miraculously thrive in this natural hothouse. If

truth be told, I was also keeping a wary eye open for lions.

Pho

to ©

Cam

erap

ix P

ublis

hers

/Sha

kira

Cha

udry


When we started up the rise out of the gorge, we were

greeted not only by the sweet air of the savannah, but by a

sweeping expanse of scrubland dotted with small herds of gazelle

and impala – among which, I’m sure, lurked the odd lion. The

park’s main gate is actually called Elsa Gate after the lioness

that won the hearts of George and Joy Adamson, who released

some of their famous charges here. Hell’s Gate was also one of

locations for the filming of Sheena – Queen of the Jungle and

The Lion King. The main locations for Lion King, including Pride

Rock and the Gorge, are modelled after Hell’s Gate National Park.

Apart from the wondrous wildlife and the marvellous people,

I always find the air to be one of the most enduring memories of

a Kenyan safari. The air here seems to contain the entire

essence of Africa, spread out beneath some of the world’s

biggest and bluest skies. In Hell’s Gate, I will always remember

the wind, which was of the variety that sweeps all the cobwebs

from your mind. According to the obnoxious lady, it carried the

pestilence that will kill us all.

After a brief rest, it was time for our trek into the game park,

unarmed and covered only in Spartan clothing to brave the wild

creatures and plants of Hades. We managed to pass a menacing

group of buffalo without incident, only to be speared by a vicious

variety of grass. Although the idea of walking through a park can

be quite daunting, rest assured: there has not been a single

animal attack on a human in Hell’s Gate for the past decade.

Or so our guide told us.

Either way, the walk through the park is definitely an experience

that will attach itself to your memory for life – particularly if, like me,

feature

you have spent most of yours stuck in areas where the meanest

predator is the neighbour’s cat.

Our next port of call was the cloudy peak of Mount Longonot,

which is called a mountain but for serious climbers probably

constitutes little more than a big hill. I personally felt like I was

scaling the windy heights of the Himalayas. As we began our

ascent, the sun tentatively began the day’s assault, making for a

climb in pleasantly intense heat. We left behind the steamy gates

of Hell for the lofty blue heights of Heaven.

At first, we arrogantly struck our way up the modest incline,

but after an hour’s climbing our confident strides were reduced to

a miserable shuffle, which for some of us ceased altogether. The

path was dusty and the dust seemed to have only one purpose:

to inveigle itself in every noon and cranny of our sweaty bodies.

The vegetation was thorny and scrub-like, and, our guide happily

told us, probably concealed a few more ravenous animals. That

thought alone managed to induce a new, revitalised spring in our

step. Before we realised it, we had arrived at the first peak.

Here we found a beautiful vista awaiting us, which could only

have been created by a very magnanimous god. Sitting with the

park spread out like a green and yellow carpet before us, we felt

like the proprietors of Heaven itself. Antelope and zebra could

be seen placidly wandering in the park. As if on cue, a ray of

sunlight broke through a cloud to stroke a finger of gold across

the ground. On the wavy horizon, the waters of Lake Naivasha

shimmered in the sun.

After half an hour exploring our nest in the sky, we began an

uneventful descent. I began to wonder if the animals in the park

were actually there or if they had somehow become as tame as

they were in Eden. Not even a single rush by a disturbed leopard!

Taking the beaten path down to our campsite, the whole group

lapsed into a reverent silence, like so many pilgrims returning

from the roof of the world. Even a slight drizzle of rain could not

dampen our enlightened spirits. And, for once, the annoying lady

had nothing bad to say.

Above:

Volcanic

crater of

Mount

Longonot

characterised

by lopsided

knife-edge

crater rim

and eroded

slopes.

Right:

Giraffe,

Mount

Longonot and

Hell’s Gate

National Park.

I always find the air to be one of the most enduring memories of a Kenyan safari.

Pho

to ©

Cam

erap

ix

Pho

to ©

Cam

erap

ix


When the poet Walter de la Mare first penned these

succinct lines, he was surely only hinting at the

lustrous lineage of this floral gem whose origins

are etched in antiquity and entwined with the scent of

historical romance.

Their names and descriptions read like the social column of a

glossy magazine: Madame Hardy, enchanting in white silk, set off

by her green eyes: Madame Pierre Oger, in the palest blush-pink

even on the wettest day; Mrs Anthony Waterer, beguiling in

the deepest crimson; and archiduc Joseph, a veritable dandy in

shades of orange, pink, and mauve.

These are the old roses. Most have their ancestry rooted deep

in the past. Others made their debut in the 20th century. It is

their style as much as their age which earns them the epithet of

old. Characterised by their free-growing habit, flat, soft-coloured

flowers, and heady perfume, old roses bring a breath of mystery

and fascination into the garden.

Certainly, they are a breed apart from the comparatively

scentless, short and spiky specimens which feature in public

gardens all over the world.

New roses contain a high-centered bloom, are resistant to

wind and weather, and are largely baldness.

But the Romans were not the only people to recognise the

beauty of the rose. Persian poets were waxing lyrical about the

magnificent flower in the ninth century AD, when petals were

used to make sweet-smelling potpourri and rose-water. The

Chinese were not far behind, developing an enduring love for

the rose, enshrining its beauty in their literature and art.

It was the Greeks who were believed to have introduced the

Romans to the rose. The Greek word for rose is rhodon and

Rhodos – the island of Rhodes – is almost certainly so named

because roses flourished there, nurtured by the temperate

climate.

From its humble origins, the rose has become a powerful

emblem in religious symbolism. Christianity adopted the red rose

as representative of Christ’s blood; Muslim legend relates that

the rose sprang from beads of the prophet Muhammad’s sweat;

and in Hindu mythology, Vishnu is said to have created his bride

Lakshmi from 108 large and 1,008 small rose petals.

Painters, poets, and writers, have recognised the romantic

beauty of the rose through the ages. William Shakespeare

included more than 60 roseate references in his work, and since

mediaeval times there has scarcely been a painter who has not

employed the symbolism in some way.

feature

Originating in the hedgerows of antiquity, the humble rose of old has risen to majesterial status

among horticulturists and gardeners alike, Sheila Copsey sheds love and light on this floral beauty.

Old Roses


bedeck her arboreal acres with a profusion of roses. Nurserymen

and gardeners in her employ were given an explicit brief; to scout

the four corners of the world for rose species and return with

them to Malmaison.

Even the Napoleonic Wars did not hamper Josephine’s gardening

enthusiasm. The British Navy lifted its blockade of the French ports

to let through a ship carrying plants destined for the illustrious

gardens. Thus it was that Malmaison at one time housed what

is thought to have been the largest collection of roses in the world.

How do we know so much about Malmaison and Josephine’s

passions? Here we are indebted as much to the artist as to the

empress. Pierre Joseph Redouté was employed by Josephine

to faithfully record the beauty and variety of her roses. This he

did with an unstinting accuracy which makes his drawings and

paintings invaluable to contemporary botanists and rose lovers.

Sadly, after Josephine’s death in 1814, Malmaison fell into

decay and disrepair. Only now is it being restored to its former

glory. But in the pictures of Redouté can be seen the full

splendour of Josephine’s garden and its height.

Josephine’s place in botanical history is enshrined in one of

the most beautiful old roses, appropriately called Souvenir de la

Malmaison. Though the rose hates wet weather, in sunshine it

is perfect, a neat flower of many petals and so pale that it can

appear white at the edges.

The fashion for naming roses after society patrons or

heros and heroines reached its height in the mid-19th

century. A popular name could spell success for a

rose at a time when nurserymen were engaged

in fierce competition.

In 1590, one of the favourite old roses – the

pink and white striped Rosa Mundi – was in

cultivation in Britain and France. It is probable that

this particular species originated in Persia and

found its way across Europe with a knight crusader.

The Rosa Mundi is a typical example of the

oldest cultivated form of the rose, the Gallica. The

rose had, and still has, considerable influence

on the development of the species, providing the

stock for many other crosses and hybrids. Rosa

Mundi, like the rest of the family, flowers once each

summer, has a fabulous perfume, and needs very

little attention. Colours vary from palest pink to the

red-black of Tuscany Superb and include striped

roses such as Tricolore de Flandre and Georges

Vibert. They have only one drawback – they bloom

for only three weeks each year.

The search to find a rose whose transient beauty

could be persuaded to reappear more than once

a summer, became a thorn in the side of growers

throughout the world. Eventually the trail led to a

small island in the Indian Ocean. Towards the end

of the 18th century a strange marriage took place

on the Ile de Bourbon, now known as Réunion.

An old annually flowering China rose called

Parson’s Pink was growing in a hedge alongside the damask rose,

Quatre Saisons, which had its flowering season in the autumn.

The two roses cross-fertilised naturally to create what is now

called the Bourbon rose, a family of beautiful and often exotic

roses which flower atleast twice in summer and will continue

flowering until the first weeks of winter.

The Bourbons include such stunning varieties as Variegata di

Bologna, a huge bush displaying blooms of white striped with deep

mauve; Zephirine Drouchin, the famous thornless rose, with a

redolent perfume which fills the evening air; and Boule de Neige,

living up to its name with pure white flowers which reflex into

perfect pompoms and often last long enough to see the first snows.

The Bourbons also gave rise to one of those elusive

conundrums which rose lovers enjoy so much. For many years

growers cultivated a beautiful pale pink rose called Blairi No.

2. Oddly, there was no trace of what growers and cultivators

believed must have been Blairi No. 1. Eventually Mr. Graham Start

Thomas, an eminent gardener and rose expert, rediscovered the

rose in the 1970s and reintroduced it to cultivation. Now, Blairi

No. 1, a softer pink and more temperamental rose, grows in the

finest gardens beside its younger brother.

The history of old roses and the fact that they still exist today

owes much to two people – one an empress, the other an artist.

When Napoleon gave Empress Josephine a new chateau at

Malmaison, a short carriage drive from Paris, she might have

chosen any theme for her garden. The French style of the time,

formal parterre with gravel paths and petite box hedges, was still

fashionable. Happily for every rose lover, the empress decided to

feature

>>


Roses are honoured as one of the most popular flowers

in the world, reckoned as the queen of flowers, and even

sometimes as the flower of roses. Historically dating 35

million years, the rose flower culturally carries symbolic

meanings depending on the variety, colour and even number

of roses. For instance the red rose is popularly known

as the flower of love. Due to their aesthetic beauty they

serve as decorations for both outdoor and indoor settings.

Some are used for landscaping purposes, others for hedging

and even some for utilitarian purposes such as game cover.

Due to their charming fragrance they constitute commercial

perfumery. While the oil from the plant produces perfumes,

the leaves and roots are used in teas and jams for

medicinal purposes.

Rose flowers are a major export earner for many

countries in the world when sold as commercial cut flower

crops. They are valued all over the world as a gift especially

during Valentines Day, Mother’s Day and Christmas.

Presently, over 100 species of roses are found. Natives,

cultivars and hybrids are all widely grown with the smallest

types attaining a height of less than 61 centimetres and the

largest growing as high as 610 centimetres.

In Tanzania for instance nearly all the commercial farms

in the floriculture industry are located in the northern parts

of Arusha and Kilimanjaro and more than 75 per cent of the

total flowers produced are fresh cut roses. More than

a dozen varieties of roses are produced and chiefly exported

to the European Union.

While Kenya’s rose industry is amongst the oldest and

largest in Africa it is indeed a chief export earner. Some of

the largest flower farms are located in the Rift Valley region

around Lake Naivasha. The peak season for export of roses

is February during Valentine’s Day. Nearly 70 per cent of

all the roses produced are exported to European countries

such as Holland, Germany, Switzerland, France and the

United Kingdom.

Uganda, also a big exporter of roses to Europe, produces

27 varieties of roses commercially including the Viva (bright

yellow), Chelsea (orange), Akito (white), Meera (champagne),

Marie Claire (orange flame), Samoa (deep orange), Blushing

Akito (pink), Poeme (pink), Lambada (orange), Red Calypso

(bright red), and Valentino (dark red). Uganda offers great

competitive edge due to its hot and humid climate that

gives it potential to achieve very high yields of small roses

(sweethearts) which account for more than 65 per cent of

the European market demand.

When Grace Darling rowed out into the briny to save

seafarers from the storm, she could hardly have imagined that

her braveness would also guarantee success for a rose named

after her. The rose Grace Darling emerged in 1884 and quickly

became a favourite.

The name of one stunning white rose changed more than once

along with the political climate. Introduced in 1901 as Frau Karl

Druschki, this particular rose lost popularity in England, France,

and America at the outbreak of the First World War. The rose

soon became widely known again as Snow queen, and it was under

that name that it held its place as the premier white rose, up until

20 years ago. Such is the confusion over this one rose that it is

also known as Reine des Neiges and white American beauty.

Another war was to change the name of one of the best loved

roses of all time. The French grower Meilland was working on a

particular lovely rose known simply as 3-35-40 when the Nazis

invaded Czechoslovakia. Pale cream with pink edges, he decided

to name the rose Madame Meilland after his mother.

As the enemy forces moved steadily across Europe and ever

closer he resolved to send the seedlings to collaborating growers

in Germany, Italy, and America, rather than see them destroyed in

the fighting. Cut off from the other growers, Meilland progressed

with the development of his rose until, at the end of hostilities, he

was to discover just how successful it had become.

In Italy it was much admired and being sold as joy. In Germany

similar success had resulted in it being named The Glory of God.

But the rose reached its pinnacle of glory in America, where it

achieved first prize and the highest rating ever in the All-American

Rose selection trials. In its honour, and to celebrate its success

in the year that war in Europe ceased, the rose was finally and

appropriately named Peace.

>>

feature

Rose Flowers


Did you know that salt could dispel negative energies in your home? What colour candles should you light to encourage vitality? What can you use instead of harmful chemicals to kill bacteria? Gilly Pickup suggests 10 ways to heal your home and make it into a Happy, Healthy Environment.

1. Don’t SmokeIt pollutes the home environment with toxins and makes it

unhealthy for everyone else. Besides all the other well-publicised

health risks, it has been positively identified as a factor in the

development of asthma in youngsters. Have a fresh, attractive

home without nasty nicotine stains on the walls besides

reducing your risk of starting a house fire.

2. Clear the AirIncrease the healthy negative ions in the room. Positive (unhealthy)

ions outweigh negative ions when air becomes polluted, which can

lead to tiredness, irritability, muggy-headedness, headaches and

allergies. Plants, especially ferns and rubber plants are a good

natural way to encourage a healthy ion balance or you could invest

in an ioniser. Electromagnetic fields from household appliances

such as microwaves and televisions are thought to depress the

human immune system. Try to avoid placing electrical clocks, fans,

radios or answer machines near your head when sleeping and

don’t keep a television in the bedroom! Keep a reasonable distance

from your computer screen and television. In the kitchen,

do not use a microwave that appears to be malfunctioning.

3. Light Some Candles

They boost the positive energy in a room. Why not combine colour

to create a specific energy? Burning a red candle in a room will

encourage activity and vitality, while blue is the colour to bring

serenity or if you want to meditate. Go for zingy orange when you

want to get a party going. Burn white candles as you listen to your

favourite music for a relaxing, chilled experience.

4. Throw Those Windows Open Make sure the air you breathe is constantly renewed by opening

the windows every day. This will allow pollutants from furnishings,

cooking, heating systems and cleaning products to clear.

feature

Heal your OME

Long ago when houses had chimneys it took just a few minutes

for a complete change of air but with today’s efficient insulation

it can take several hours. If someone in your home has asthma

and you have a gas cooker check carefully that you have proper

ventilation. Placing a few large houseplants around your home

soaks up pollutants too.

5. Salt of the EarthA natural cleanser and purifier, salt can be used to overcome

negative energies in your home. Sprinkle some sea, rock or

cooking salt in the corners of each room, invoking its protective

qualities with a prayer or visualisation as you do so. You could

also place wind chimes round your home. According to Native

American tradition, this creates a protective healing circle, as

they believe the salt grains absorb evil spirits.

6. Use Essential OilsAfter an argument, you can try misting a room with rescue

remedy to help dispel negative emotions. Bergamot, frankin-

cense, lavender or sandalwood is just the ticket for those times

when you feel stressed. For an emotional lift burn geranium,

jasmine or rose and if going to sleep is a problem, use clary

sage. Coughs and colds respond well to eucalyptus, tea tree or

rosemary. Put a couple of drops of the oil in water and pour in

the top of a lighted burner or just add a few drops to a bowl of

water and place on a radiator. As it evaporates, its aroma will

fill the room. You can also add a few drops to a plant mister and

spray the room.

7. Mirror, Mirror on the WallThe Chinese think mirrors are great at keeping chi energy

flowing through the home. Mirrors expand energy and deflect bad

influences. For example, placing a mirror on the bathroom door

will stop ‘wealth energy’ flowing in where it will be flushed away.


They can expand a hallway and are great for spaces that need

to draw in natural sunlight. Amazing things happen when you

use a mirror that effectively pulls in the outdoors and warmth

from the sun. Avoid mirrors in the bedroom if you want a

good night’s sleep though. Energy needs to be concentrated

not expanded.

8. Shun ChemicalsAvoid using harsh chemical products in the home. Always try

to use natural cleaning materials rather than bleach and

chemical disinfectants, which can cause allergic reactions.

Don’t use pesticides like fly sprays or woodworm treatments.

Natural remedies are normally just as effective. Repel insects

by using lavender oil; kill bacteria by diluting lemon or tea tree

in water. To make a natural glass cleaner, combine some white

vinegar and warm water together and pour into a spray bottle.

Spray on surface to be cleaned and wipe dry.

9. Space Clear your Way to a Great Atmosphere Cleanse the atmosphere of your home by ‘smudging’.

This centuries old ritual burns herbs such

as cedar wood, sage, lavender or and

lemongrass to help restore positive energy

to a room. Tie a bunch of herbs together and

light them. Then waft the smoke around

yourself before wafting it to the east, south,

north, west then above and finally to the ground.

You can use your favourite incense stick if you

prefer. (Be careful you don’t set anything alight!)

10. Use Entrance Mats and Remove ShoesUsing mats and taking off your shoes inside greatly

reduces dirt, pesticides and bacteria in the house.

The soil around most homes is contaminated with lead,

pesticides and lawn chemicals. In homes where people

routinely remove their shoes when they enter, the levels of

house dust are lower than in homes where people do not

routinely remove shoes. Carpeting holds up to a 100 times

the amount of dust as bare flooring.

Driver Training for harsh environments

www.OnCourse4wd.com tech @ OnCourse4wd.com

+256 772 22 11 07

A Piece Of Tranquility in Dynamic Kampala


Afeature

Walking around many towns in East Africa, you’ll

notice the abundance of abstract sculptures in

wood and stone. In urban communities not yet

100 years old, where cultures are still so firmly rooted in age-old

traditions, it comes as something of a surprise to find this world

of modern art.

Yet, remember that the inspiration for Picasso and so many

other artists of his time came from Africa. European art, which

had struggled with the problem of

representing reality, finally reached

a point of where it simply could go

no further.

Perspective and proportion,

colour and light were worked with

familiar ease. Even the advent of

democracy, which gave birth to

social realism and freed artists

from the suffocating world of

romanticism and classicism, failed

to satisfy their quest for ‘reality’.

Even so, it was intuitively felt that

art could and should go further –

there had to be another point of

view, another hitherto unexplored

world of human experience left for

man to chart.

The clue, of course, came from

Africa in the form of masks and

statues brought back to Europe

by explorers, missionaries and

traders. An art form – unconcerned

about realism in the western sense

– it plainly sought to express, through

symbolism and abstraction, something

about man and his place in the universe.

Distortion and exaggeration,

simplification and suggestion soon

became an intergral feature of European

art. Thus the seeds of what was to

become known as Surrealism were sown.

Perhaps the most interesting traditional

art in East Africa – and certainly the most

striking – is Makonde, from the tribe

of the same name. Originally from

the equatorial rain forests of the

One of the most exciting – and valuable – art forms to be discovered by the western world in recent times is the ageless sculpture of the Makonde tribe. The strange but beautiful forms of their ebony carvings all tell a story reflecting tribal legends and folklore, says Jack Crowther.

Congo, they migrated and settled in the isolated Ravuma Valley

of southern Tanzania some 2,000 years ago, where their culture

remained unchanged by any outside influences.

Their wood-carving skills not only survived, but flourished, as

the Makonde sought to ensure the protection of their heritage

through a system of mass education of each generation.

The story- teller not only related their history, but specifically

instructed the younger males in their culture, mythology and

customs. Wood carving was also taught so that they

could ‘read’ and ‘write’ their family histories.

Inevitably, specialisation of labour occurred as

each village became well established, secure and

more prosperous. The result was that master

craftsmen were eventually commissioned to carve

the family trees while the other men followed

different pursuits.

Family trees take three basic forms. One

commemorates a specific event in the life of a

specific family. Generally 30 to 46 centimetres

high, the sculpture tells a complete story, which

is read from top to bottom. The symbol at the top

indicates the subject of the story, while the dominant

figure represents the family to whom the story

relates. The symbol appears throughout the story

and the various figures represent the family members

involved in the event.

The Makonde migration from the Congo to East

Africa is a common theme. The dominant symbol, not

surprisingly, features luggage being carried on the

head. Other common themes are farming and trade.

The second form of family-tree sculpture traces the

family lineage, usually in carvings ranging around 91

and 122 centimetres high, though larger and older

families will have even taller trees.

Since Makonde society is matrilineal, the mother is

always the dominant figure. In older works, they will be

represented with a donyo, or upper lip plug – a symbol

of fertility. The larger the donyo, the more children she

will have had, and the more respect she commands.

While concentrating on the line of inheritance from

mother to daughter, the story-teller also depicts individual

family members going about their normal activities, such

as hoeing, milking, smoking, and drinking.

Recently, a new type of family-tree sculpture

emerged in Tanzania. Known as Ujamma, after

bstractfrica


The African Blackwood or mpingo is traditionally the

preferred wood for makonde carvings. Being greatly prized

by carvers, it has long been over-harvested across the

African continent rendering it endangered. Due to high

commercial demands for the makonde carvings, many

sculptors are seeking alternatives such as the less hardy

variety of the muhugu, which is a type of African mahogany

and the African rose wood (mpera vitu). These woods

require less arduous effort to sculpt and meet the

raw-material demand in the face of shortages of the African

Blackwood (mpingo). Also due mainly to the tourist trade,

other types of wood such as coconut are used. Some

sculptors have also learnt to carve in stone and coral.

Today, many communities and organisations are taking

initiative to conserve the endangered African Blackwood

(mpingo) and to overcome illegal logging which is

widespread. In Tanzania for instance, an export ban on

mpingo tree has been imposed. Also sellers of hard woods

and Makonde carvings are required to be registered and

their mpingo wood certified.

feature

the communal villages founded under Julius Nyerere’s African

socialism, these sculptures feature social events that have taken

place in modern Tanzania.

There are no dominant figures as most of the sculptures

show various aspects of peasant life. Even if westerners aren’t

entirely capable of reading them, these carvings are quite

realistic narratives.

Where modern European art has sought to express human

consciousness and emotions, the makonde artist salutes the

world of spirits that influence human life. This abstract style is

far from symbolic – it is the embodiment of the spirit itself.

Makonde people believe in good and bad spirits, Mawingo

and Shaitani. The absence of Mawingo and or the presence of

Shaitani determine an individual’s well being.

Commissioned to deal with a spirit influencing someone’s life,

the story-teller studies a suitably shaped piece of wood and then

carves away the excess to reveal the spirit.

To do this, he also studies the shadows cast by the wood;

for the real spirit lies in a non-tangible world – the world of

shadows. As he cuts and scrapes the excess wood away, the

shadows begin to take on the spirit’s shape until, finally, it is

revealed.

Indeed, when looking at Makonde Abstract, remember – it

is not the aesthetics of the piece that are important, but the

shadows. As such, the work must be properly lit for it to come

alive. One simple rule of thumb applies to Makonde Abstract – if

the piece is pleasing to the eye, it is Mawingo. If it looks evil,

then it is Shaitani.

While each piece of Makonde Abstract is unique, there are

several common themes which reflect both the concerns and

the values of the Makonde people.

Most Mawingo carvings deal with sexuality – fertility and virility

being the gift of good spirits. Shaitani carvings, on the other

hand, deal with ill-health – sickness wrought upon an individual

by evil spirits.

There are also many common symbols: an elephant can refer

to long life, virility, and strength. A chameleon speaks of change,

and birds are synonymous with the female spirit. Specific birds

have different meanings.

The owl is a mother-figure. The horn-bill is all-seeing and the

eagle far-sighted. Snakes symbolise the evil of temptation, teeth

represent hunger and the desire for a good harvest, the gourd

stands for water and the mother – the givers of life and love.

There are two final traditions of Makonde sculpture – ‘Love’

and ‘Unity’. ‘Love’ is a circular structure with the male on top,

the woman beneath, expressing the Makonde philosophy of

Love’s need for give and take.

‘Unity’ is basically the same but includes the outline of a

child – for within the circle of love, the child brings unity.

‘Love’ pieces are traditionally given by the mother when a

daughter marries, while ‘Unity’ pieces are given to celebrate the

birth of her daughter’s first child. Since each piece is specifically

commissioned, the

symbols employed change

with the individual.

All Makonde sculptures

are made from ebony

– an extremely hard

and long lasting tropical

hardwood which has

some specific qualities

that lend themselves to

high-quality work. Its even

consistency prevents

chipping and peeling and,

when properly finished, it

acquires a high gloss and

pleasantly soft sheen.

More importantly,

ebony seems to come

alive under a warm light.

Its rich tones are accentuated, while the contours of the piece

are highlighted by the now-revealed grain.

When buying Makonde wood sculptures, test them for

heaviness and look for the warm and subtle tones of colour

under a bright light. Anything else may simply be stained

hardwood. To keep your piece looking good, don’t forget to give

it proper lighting and a little wax and polish from time to time.

No matter what you buy, Makonde is a truly valuable work

of art – and an attractive and interesting compliment to any

home or office.

African Blackwood (Mpingo Tree)


MIND YOUR LANGUAGE!

feature

Despite the globalisation of commerce, most business

is still done on an individual, one-to-one basis and it is

often the small gestures that make or break a business

relationship. Not convinced? Try waving at a Vietnamese

manager, pointing at a Ugandan director with your left hand or

hugging a Taiwanese company president out of sheer enthusiasm

– and you may find your carefully prepared business trip rapidly

going wrong. You might have done your homework over charts

and statistics and even studied a phrase book or two, but the

chances are you’ll still be confused if a Frenchman points to

his eye, a Chinese bursts into laughter or a German raps his

knuckles on the conference table.

Welcome to the baffling world of body language – that’s belly

language (haragei) to the Japanese and face–reading (nunchi)

to the Koreans. We might well get by with body language in the

bedroom, but when it comes to more formal relationships it’s

more likely to cause discomfort and confusion. The Taiwanese will

be offended by your hugging, the Ugandan mortally insulted by

your pointing, and as for the Vietnamese, he won’t be impressed

– waving in the Western manner is used strictly to attract the

attention of dogs. A German rapping his knuckles, meanwhile,

is merely saying hello – a substitute for a handshake if he or

she can’t reach you across a wide conference table. As for the

Frenchman pointing to his eye, he’s saying “You can’t fool me”,

and it’s time to rethink your negotiations. And don’t imagine these

passing gestures are trivial in the face of multimillion-dollar deals.

Many Western business negotiators have misinterpreted a

Chinese smile as a sign of satisfaction or pleasure. In fact, a

smiling Chinese is far more likely to be signalling emotions ranging

from embarrassment or polite disbelief to total anger.

The international etiquette of body language is full of pitfalls

right from the first moments of the introduction. Shaking hands

has become a universally accepted form of greeting, certainly.

But a Japanese will want to give only the lightest and most

fleeting of grips, while most Arab businessmen like to maintain

a lingering hold and would think it ungracious for the other

to withdraw. The Arab thinks the Japanese is unfriendly; the

Japanese thinks the Arab embarrassingly effusive and possibly

even intimidating. A Frenchman walks into work every day and

formally shakes hands even with his closest colleague; an Arab

may well embrace warmly and kiss on the cheek. Arabs would get

on well in Mexico, where embraces are also common, but they’d

get a cool reception in Germany, where body contact ends with a

firm handshake.

In Uganda western-style handshaking has become the norm,

although generally much less pressure is applied to the clasp.

Traditionally members of the opposite sex don’t touch, even to

shake hands, although exceptions are usually made for foreign

businesswomen. More unusual is that you’ll be expected to shake

hands with someone every time you meet, even if that’s several

times in the same day. As the relationship develops, so does the

body language.

In the Far East bowing has traditionally served in place of a

handshake, but foreigners would be wrong to assume a bow

is merely a form of greeting – it may equally convey sorrow,

sympathy, congratulations or thanks. Koreans and Japanese bow

frequently, traditionally minded Chinese and Taiwanese less (they

might applaud instead on entering a meeting), and it’s virtually

unknown elsewhere. Singaporeans, despite being ethnic Chinese,

don’t bow. Japanese-owned stores in Singapore once attempted

to transfer social custom by having employees bow to customers,

only to find that Singaporeans reacted negatively to what they

considered excessive obsequiousness.

When meeting foreigners, most Japanese and Korean business

people make do with a handshake and a slight dip of the head and

shoulders, sometimes called a shadow bow. It’s fine to reciprocate

in like manner, but a bow will impress. In Korea, a bow is carried

out by keeping the back and legs straight and bending from the

waist; men keep their palms behind them on their buttocks, while

women fold their arms across their chest. In Japan men’s hands

are kept at the sides with palms against the thighs, while women

fold their arms across their waist. The deeper the bow, the more

respect is conveyed. Koreans will seldom bow more than once,

but in Japan repeated bowing shows particular respect or apology.

A significant difference between handshaking and bowing

is that the latter doesn’t involve physical contact. In general,

Asians aren’t a tactile people, especially in formal settings, and

physical contact other than a handshake should be avoided.

Arm patting, arms around the shoulders, hands on knees,

and other signs of friendliness only make the average Asian

In the world of international travel, body language is serious matter, says Brian Johnston.


businessman feel uncomfortable; most businesswomen would

feel highly embarrassed by physical contact with foreigners of

either sex. (While the same is true of Arab women, Arab men

would consider such lack of physical contact cold and aloof.) This

doesn’t mean that foreigners have a restricted body language,

however, as many cultures place great importance on unspoken

signs and non-verbal signals. A Filipino raising his eyebrows

is politely saying no; an Indian wagging his head from side to

side is in total agreement (westerners, on the contrary, would

be disagreeing), while a Chinese with his palm down making

scratching motions with his fingers is inviting you to come closer.

In Europe, a Frenchman flicking his fingers on his cheek is bored

to tears. Then there’s the famous Gallic shrug, which can either

mean ‘It doesn’t worry me’ or, more alarmingly ‘What do you

expect me to do about it?’ And, of course, a French person

making the OK sign, far from indicating that everything is OK,

is simply referring to the number zero. An Englishman giving the

thumbs up will be indicating agreement or success; a German will

only be indicating the number one.

Having grasped the meaning of some non-verbal signals

doesn’t give you a licence to twitch indiscriminately, pull faces,

and poke and prod, however. In Mediterranean and Latin

American countries gesticulating wildly and talking with the

hands is more than acceptable, but many Asians would consider

such actions wild and impolite – and indeed, often construe

such unrefined waving as a sign of anger. People in the Far East

generally keep their hands clasped in their laps or on the tabletop

when seated. Feet should be kept under control too. Its an insult

to point at a Thai with the sole of your foot, even inadvertently if

your legs are crossed. The same is true in Malaysia, Indonesia,

Pakistan and Arab countries, where the foot should always be

flat on the floor while

seated, or curled

towards the body if

on cushions. Tapping

the feet, swinging the

legs and placing feet

on furniture in the

manner of Westerners

is considered uncouth

almost everywhere

else. So is the Western

habit of standing

with hands on hips

or in pockets. To the

Chinese this is an

indication of obstinacy;

to the Mexicans a challenge, and to the Indonesians downright

aggressive, since the gesture shows defiance in traditional

wayang (shadow-puppet) shows.

Having got your arms and legs under control, it’s time to

remember that those twitching facial muscles can be equally

misleading. Europeans and North Americans place great

importance on direct eye contact, which implies friendliness

and sincerity in Western cultures. (Lack of eye contact denotes

boredom or disinterest; eye contact maintained too long,

however, is either aggressive or flirtatious.) Thais, on the other

hand, find direct looks offensive, and they may embarrass

Japanese, though Koreans and Chinese maintain almost as

much eye contact as Europeans.

Western business people smile to show friendliness and

agreement, but when it comes down to important negotiations

a serious expression is deemed appropriate. Nothing could be

more different in the Far East, where people tend to talk about

serious matters with a smile or even a short laugh, believing

that they are being less confrontational and perhaps making

the truth more palatable. A laughing Filipino will certainly have

arrived at the most vital point of his or her negotiations – while

the American business partner is still puzzling over what the

joke might be. The Japanese will often smile before delivering

bad news, while Thais generally smile to diffuse conflict; the

combination is rather disconcerting, even totally misleading,

for those unused to cultural differences. But don’t imagine

your smiling business partner wont be indicating his impatience,

frustration or annoyance in other ways, such as by sucking his

breath through his teeth. Chinese from Shanghai to Singapore

might wave their hands in a fan-like motion in front of their

faces, not because they’re feeling hot but to show their

disagreement or even anger.

Not that your negotiations

could ever possibly deteriorate

to such a level, providing you

follow the golden rule:

if in doubt, don’t wiggle it.

No one ever got offended

anywhere by controlled body

movements, and all you have

to do is head off into the

sunset with your deal tucked

into your briefcase. Just

remember as you depart,

don’t bother waving at the

Vietnamese – and keep

on smiling.

feature

Most business is still done on an individual one-to-one basis and it is often the small gestures that make or break a business relationship.


health

In fact, it’s now becoming apparent that owning a pet isn’t

just beneficial in providing the kind of social and emotional

support you would expect, but actually promotes good health and

physical well-being in ways that are wholly surprising.

Repeated studies show pet-owners have lower stress levels,

lower cholesterol and lower blood pressure. In short, own a

pet – especially a dog – and you’ll almost certainly live longer.

The news is so good that insurance companies are starting to

lower premiums for pet owners, and numerous official health bodies

are recommending we adopt a pet.

Not into forming a lifetime relationship with a pampered pooch or

feckless feline? Don’t worry: just a few months of animal interaction

can do you good, and even stroking another owner’s animal can

have almost immediate effects on your well-being. (And, incidentally,

that of the animal: a dog’s blood pressure starts to drop almost as

soon as you start petting it, showing that the advantages work both

ways.) This is particularly true if you’re feeling stressed.

“We’ve shown over and over that it’s beneficial to be with a pet

when you’re under stress,” says Dr. Karen Allen of the State

University of New York. She should know, having studied some

of the most ridiculously stressed-out people on the planet: Wall

Street stockbrokers.

Dr. Allen studied stockbrokers who lived alone and who were

suffering from hypertension, and divided them into two groups.

Brokers in the first group took mainstream medication for their

condition, while those in the second group were given dogs and

told to look after them. Six months later, most of the pill-poppers

still had high blood pressure, while the pooch-petters had shown

significant improvement, with blood pressures down to within the

normal healthy range. Even Dr. Allen herself was taken aback at the

difference. “This study shows that if you have high blood pressure, a

pet is very good for you when you’re under stress,” she concluded.

“And pet ownership is especially good for you if

you have a limited support system” – in short, if you live alone.

But wait: there’s more. Snuggle up to your labrador or canoodle

with your cat and it might serve you very well indeed should you

ever have a heart attack. The American Journal of Cardiology

reported in 1995 that owning a dog increased your chances of

surviving a major heart attack by a very significant margin:

26 per cent survived among dog-owners, while only six per cent

of non-owners pulled through. Studies since then have backed up

the results and also demonstrated that cholesterol levels are two

per cent lower among those with furry friends, which translates

into a four per cent reduction in the chance of having a heart

If you’re a pet owner, you already know it: owning a pet is

good for you. You know it the minute you hear the pitter-patter

of claws across your kitchen floor, the thump of a happy tail

against the sofa, or the rumbling purr of a contented animal in

your lap. You feel it too, as those brown eyes gaze up at you with

trust and affection. Now science is supporting this sentimentality

with some good medical facts: chances are, you really will feel

better if you own a pet, says Mary Day.

Animal agicM


Pets provide comfort, pleasure and companionship, and make

us feel needed. In social settings, they often provide a topic of

conversation, a distraction, or a way of easing tensions. Indeed,

it’s well accepted that the presence of animals has a calming

effect; aquariums of fish in particular are known to induce a

sense of well-being. NASA (National Aeronautics and space

Administrations) has considered sending pets into space to combat

loneliness and boredom among astronauts; children learn about

responsibility, love and even death from family pets. The effects are

numerous and difficult to document, but a Canadian study among

university students revealed higher self-esteem and confidence

among those who had owned a pet when they were young.

Similar benefits can be observed in the elderly. Elderly people

with dogs or cats make fewer visits to the doctor because they’re

more active and better able to deal with social isolation. Many

point to a feeling of purpose and fulfilment derived from looking

after their furry friends, especially for those whose spouse has

passed away. Sadly, it has also been shown that the elderly,

the blind and wheelchair patients receive more attention when

accompanied by a dog, and more social indifference when out

on their own.

The emotional impact of animals is particularly significant in

patients recovering from a major illness or accident. This isn’t

a new idea: in ancient Egypt and Greece, dogs were used in the

healing centres attached to temples, where it was recognised

that the presence of animals helped to calm patients and speed

their recovery. (As their tongues were thought to be cleansing,

dogs were also encouraged to lick patients’ wounds!) These days,

the use of therapy dogs and other pets has become almost

standard practice in many of the world’s hospitals, mental

institutions and rehabilitation centres. The benefits are many:

Alzheimer’s patients remember more and pay better attention

after they’ve watched brightly-coloured fish in an aquarium, AIDS

patients suffer from lower rates of depression when around cats

and dogs, while those with major injuries from car accidents

seem to heal more quickly when animals pay them periodic visits

in the ward.

Some final testimonial to the power of the pampered pooch?

It might be a sad indictment of our times, but in a recent survey

conducted by the American Animal Hospital Association, half of all

the people they asked said they’d rather be stranded on a desert

island with their pet than with another human. To add insult to

injury, 40 per cent of women said their pets understood their

moods better than their husbands did!

attack in the first place. This was particularly true of dog owners,

perhaps because they tend to get significantly more exercise than

those who own another pet, or no pet at all. If you’re going to pick

the perfect companion, it seems dogs will encourage you to live

longer than any other creature.

Other effects from our pets are just being discovered and

are imperfectly understood. In 1999, South African doctors

determined that 15 minutes of dog-stroking resulted in

hormonal changes in both human and dog. Further studies

seem to suggest that these include the release of oxytocin,

prolactin and serotonin, all known as ‘feel-good’ hormones.

Indeed, serotonin is known to elevate mood, and is used clinically

to treat aggressive personality disorders – in other words, it

makes people friendlier. A similar result can be obtained from

eating chocolate, but note this: while eating chocolate makes

you gain weight, petting a dog might actually make you lose it!

Caressing a pet reduces the level of the stress hormone

cortisol, which is mainly responsible for regulating appetite and

the craving for carbohydrates. Curiously enough, though, cortisol

control is only observed when someone strokes their own pet,

not when they stroke an unfamiliar animal or a stuffed toy.

As the evidence piles up that pet ownership has physical

benefits, researchers also point out their enormous emotional

impact. “There’s no question that emotions have an impact on

health,” says Dr. Freedman, a pioneer of studies into humans

and pets, and head of the Department of Health and Nutrition

Sciences at Brooklyn College in the USA. ‘It has been shown

that the presence of a friendly pet can have a positive effect.’

But she cautions that studies are difficult to undertake and judge

scientifically because of the many factors involved. It may be that

owning a pet makes you more positive, or it may be that positive

people are simply more likely to become pet owners. On top of

that, Dr. Freedman adds: “It’s not clear that a person actually

has to own the animal to get the effect.”

Still, actual ownership is clearly an emotional decision

and animal lovers would be quick to point out the benefits.

health


ASANTE NEWS

YOUR FEEDBACKTravel Agents Product Training Workshop

Special Offer to KigaliAir Uganda has extended their special offer for USD 49 return

(taxes exclusive) between Entebbe and Kigali. This fantastic offer

is valid until 15 May 2011 on only Air Uganda operated flights.

For more information on this offer, please contact Air Uganda at

any of our sales and ticketing offices in Uganda and Kigali or visit

our website at www.air-uganda.com.

Amazing Offer to Mombasa and ZanzibarIt’s true; you can fly between Entebbe, Mombasa and Zanzibar

at half price.Buy one return ticket and get the second at 50

per cent off. Fly direct from Entebbe to Mombasa or Zanzibar

with your loved one. Don’t stress about your honeymoon or

holiday. This offer is valid until 28 April 2011.

Terms and conditions apply.

Holiday PackagesParadise is wherever you choose to go; take a trip with any of

our holiday packages, well planned and packaged to suit your

desires. Whichever one of our holiday packages you choose; you

will experience the bliss of luxurious get-away. Choose to unwind

today with Air Uganda. Log on to www.air-uganda.com or email

us at [email protected] and book your holiday today.

Above: Travel Agents with certificates awarded to them at the workshop.

Above: Ms. Njeri Wachira, Air Uganda Country Manager for Kenya, awards Travel Agents with certificates.

I am now an avid passenger with Air Uganda. I must admit that flying was never ‘my thing’ in the past, until only recently. In the past my flying experience left me distressed, I dreaded travelling by air. I recall one time how the night before my flight I could hardly sleep. So distressed was I that I even contemplated cancelling my trip, something I had done a few times before when going for personal trips. And I did.

The checking into the airport, the usual delays, the long queues, the endless cancellation of flights, routine drills of safety precautions, turbulences, the sideways tilting or turning of the plane … was a constant nightmare for every flight I took and at times I could not even take food on board. Many times I could not figure out what was going on in the air except for the welcoming voice of the captain whom I couldn’t see and yet entrusted my safety to.

Some regional flights were indeed dreadful, a litany of lamentation: constant cancellations of flights, delays, uncomfortable planes that were low flying and slow moving all made me resort to driving rather than flying regionally. All these personal problems and misgivings about air travel hindered me from enjoying air transport.

Then about four years ago I had a major breakthrough. I spoke to Air Uganda and discussed my challenges and fear with them. I learned from Air Uganda that safety communication before any flight was mandatory in air transport and that turbulences which may cause inconvenience should not cause any worry so long as your seatbelt is fastened at all times when seated. They were able to allay my fears regarding safety. They explained to me that the pilots have many years of experience, and that the fleet was regularly serviced and that before every flight, a rigorous exercise of checking the plane’s airworthiness was undertaken by competent personnel.

The staff was very understanding and patient. They took time to explain everything to me, and this helped me gain confidence to fly. Since that breakthrough, I have successfully travelled 84 times with Air Uganda in the last four years. I fly comfortably with no fears, no sleepless nights before my trips and an end to the long hours I used to spend on the road. Being a regular customer, I find their rates and offers attractive and reasonable.

My hope and desire is that Air Uganda expands its operations to increase its routes to cover the whole of Africa and beyond. I am happy because of Air Uganda’s partnership with Qatar Airways and SN Brussels for it has eased my international travel connections. Thank you Air Uganda!Obed Akiriho

I recently flew with your airline from Nairobi to Entebbe. There was a mix up at the ticket counter and I was over-charged. An employee of Air Uganda, Christine Muli, assisted me and went to great lengths over a period of time to make sure that I was fully refunded for the overpayment. She handled this situation with excellent customer service and professionalism. I was exceedingly impressed with her integrity and diligence. I fly within the continent of Africa several times a year, sometimes with many travelling companions for business purposes. As a result of Christine’s service, we will make it a point to book our travels with Air Uganda. Harvey Wittmier

I travel regularly to Kampala but normally use Kenya or South Africa Airways. On 29 January I had my first experience with Air Uganda on flight U7 240 (Entebbe-Nairobi). The plane arrived late from Juba however, I was most impressed when the captain came into the departure lounge to firstly, apologize for the delay of 15 minutes and secondly, to assure us that boarding would begin in 5 minutes. And it did! Congratulations, that’s what I call customer service!Stephen Pead

Air Uganda held a Travel Agents workshop in Mombasa on 18

March 2011, to award travel consultants in recognition of their

support in 2010. The growth of Air Uganda in Mombasa can

be attributed to the strong partnership with travel partners.

Air Uganda is part of the Aga Khan Fund for Economic

Development and is the only airline that flies directly between

Mombasa and Entebbe and three times daily from Nairobi.


ASANTE NEWS AIR UGANDA FLIGHT SCHEDULE

Seasonal Flights to both Mombasa and Zanzibar:01 Jan-30 April 2011 – Flights 2 times weekly Thursday and Sunday. | 01 May-30 June 2011 – No flights during this season.

01 July-30 Aug 2011 – Flights 2 times weekly on Thursday and Sunday. | 01 Sept-30 Nov 2011 – No flights during this season.01 Dec-11 Jan 2012 – Flights 2 times weekly on Thursday and Sunday.

ENTEBBE - NAIROBIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 202 06:30 Hrs 07:40 Hrs Mon,Tue ,Wed ,Thur, & Fri U7 206 14:30 Hrs 15:35 Hrs Tue ,Wed ,Thur, & Fri U7 202 08:30 Hrs 09:40 Hrs SatU7 206 12:20 Hrs 13:25 Hrs SunU7 204 16:45 Hrs 17:50 Hrs SatU7 204 18:45 Hrs 19:50 Hrs Mon,Tue,Wed. Thur, Fri & Sun

NAIROBI - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 203 08:15 Hrs 09:25 Hrs Mon,Tue ,Wed ,Thur & FriU7 207 16:15 Hrs 17:20 Hrs Tue ,Wed ,Thur & FriU7 203 10:15 Hrs 11:25 Hrs SatU7 207 13:55 Hrs 15:00 Hrs SunU7 205 18:20 Hrs 19:25 Hrs SatU7 205 20:30 Hrs 21:30 Hrs Mon,Tue,Wed. Thur, Fri & Sun

ENTEBBE - JUBAFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 120 10:15 Hrs 11:15 Hrs Mon, Tue, Wed & ThurU7 120 14:45 Hrs 15:45 Hrs FriU7 120 12:15 Hrs 13:15 Hrs SatU7 120 15:15 Hrs 16:15 Hrs Sun

JUBA - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 119 12:00 Hrs 13:00 Hrs MonU7 119 12:15 Hrs 13:15 Hrs Tue, Wed & ThurU7 119 16:45 Hrs 17:45 Hrs FriU7 119 13:55 Hrs 14:55 Hrs SatU7 119 17:00 Hrs 18:00 Hrs Sun

ENTEBBE - ZANZIBAR ( DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE TILL 1 MAY 2011)FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 340 09:00 Hrs 11:40 Hrs ThurU7 340 09:00 Hrs 11:35 Hrs Sun

ZANZIBAR - ENTEBBE ( DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE TILL 1 MAY 2011)FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 341 12:10 Hrs 13:50 Hrs ThurU7 341 12:05 Hrs 14:50 Hrs Sun

ENTEBBE - DAR ES SALAAMFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 320 13:00 Hrs 14:45 Hrs MonU7 320 14:45 Hrs 16:30 Hrs Tue, Wed & ThurU7 320 11:30 Hrs 13:15 Hrs FriU7 320 15:30 Hrs 17:15 Hrs Sun

DAR ES SALAAM - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 321 15:20 Hrs 17:05 Hrs MonU7 321 17:05 Hrs 18:50 Hrs Tue,Wed & ThurU7 321 13:55 Hrs 15:40 Hrs FriU7 321 17:50 Hrs 19:35 Hrs Sun

ENTEBBE - MOMBASA (DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE TILL 1 MAY 2011)FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 340 09:00 Hrs 10:40 Hrs Thur & SunMOMBASA - ENTEBEE (DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE TILL 1 MAY 2011)

FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCYU7 341 11:10 Hrs 13:50 Hrs ThurU7 341 13:10 Hrs 14:50 Hrs Sun

ENTEBBE - KIGALIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 350 09:30 Hrs 09:15 Hrs Mon U7 350 12:00 Hrs 11:45 Hrs Tue & Wed U7 350 09:55 Hrs 09:40 Hrs ThurU7 352 16:15 Hrs 16:00 Hrs FriU7 352 16:00 Hrs 15:45 Hrs Sun

KIGALI - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 351 10:00 Hrs 11:45 Hrs Mon U7 351 12:15 Hrs 14:00 Hrs Tue & Wed U7 351 10:15 Hrs 12:00 Hrs ThurU7 353 16:30 Hrs 18:15 Hrs FriU7 353 16:15 Hrs 18:00 Hrs Sun

For any information contact your preferred Travel Agent or our Sales & Reservation Office on 041 2 165555 in KAMPALA


For your own comfort try • and travel light.

Wear loose clothing and • elasticated stockings made of natural fibre.

Increase your normal • intake of water and only if need be, drink alcohol but in moderation.

Use moisturising cream to • keep your skin from drying out.

Take off shoes in the • plane to prevent your feet from swelling up or wear shoes that will cope with expanding ankles.

Avoid heavy meals during • the flight.

Short walks once every • two hours are excellent for circulation.

Try to touch your toes • when waiting in the aisle to stretch your hamstrings.

On arrival at your • destination, have a hot shower or a relaxing bath.

On arrival a quick jog, • brisk walk, or a vigorous scrub will help stimulate your circulation.

Knee to chest: Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around the left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.

Shoulder roll: Hunch shoulders forward, then upward, then backward, then downward, using a gentle, circular motion.

Shoulder stretch: Reach right hand over left shoulder. Place left hand behind right elbow and gently press elbow toward shoulder. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Arm curl: Start with arms held at a 90-degree angle: elbows down, hands out in front. Raise hands up to chest and back down, alternating hands. Do this exercise in 30-second intervals.

Forward flex: With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold the stretch for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.

Overhead stretch: Raise both hands straight up over your head. With one hand, grasp the wrist of the opposite hand and gently pull to one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Ankle circles: Lift feet off the floor, draw a circle with the toes, simultaneously moving one foot clockwise and the other foot counterclockwise. Reverse circles. Do each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.

Neck roll: With shoulders relaxed, drop ear to shoulder and gently roll neck forward and to the other side, holding each position about five seconds. Repeat five times.

Other Tips for a Comfortable Flight

These gentle exercises, which you can carry out easily during your flight, will help blood circulation and reduce any tiredness or stiffness that may result from sitting in one place for several hours. Check with your doctor first if you have any health conditions which might be adversely affected by exercise.

Foot pumps:

Start with both heels on the

floor and point feet upward

as high as you can. Then

put both feet flat on the

floor. Then lift heels high,

keeping the balls of your feet

on the floor. Continue cycle

in 30-second intervals.

Knee lifts:

Lift leg with knees bent while

contracting your thigh muscles.

Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30

times for each leg.

HEALTHY TRAVELLING


ROUTE MAPHEALTHY TRAVELLING

Entebbe

Seasonal flights to both Mombasa

and Zanzibar:see flight schedule

on page 47.

Flight connection on Jetlink

Flight connection on Zan Air


AIR UGANDA CONTACTS AND OFFICES

Kampala Sales Office: Tel: +256 (0) 412 165 555 +256 (0) 312 165 555 Email: [email protected] Fax: +256 (0) 414 258 267 Jubilee Insurance Centre,1st Floor, Podium Level, Plot 14 Parliment Avenue, Kampala, Uganda. P. O. Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda.

Dar es Salaam Sales Office: Tel: +255 (0) 783 111 983 +255 (0) 222 133 322 Email: [email protected] View Towers J-Mall, 1st Floor, Samora Avenue, P.O. Box 22636, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania.

Nairobi Sales Office: Tel: +254 (0) 20 313 933 Email: [email protected] 5th Floor, Jubilee Insurance Building,Gen Kago Street, Nairobi, Kenya.

Mombasa Sales Office:Tel: +254 (0) 20 313 933 +254 (0) 734 605 203Email: [email protected] Floor, TSS Towers, Nkrumah Road, Mombasa, Kenya.

Zanzibar Sales Office: Tel: +255 (0) 242 233 506/7 +255 (0) 713 666 602 Email: [email protected] Office no. 23, Mlandege Street, Muzammil Center BuildingP.O. Box 22636, Zanzibar, Tanzania.

Juba Sales Office: Tel: +256 (0) 477 153 912 Email: [email protected] Hai Suk Street, (Opp. the Mosque) Juba, Sudan.

Kigali Sales Office: Tel: +250 (0) 252 577 926 +250 (0) 252 577 928 +250 (0) 788 380 926 +250 (0) 722 926 926 Email: [email protected] Office No. 26 UTC (Union Trade Centre) Building, Town Centre. Kigali, Rwanda.

Head Office: Tel: +256 (0) 414 258 262/4 +256 (0) 417 717 401 Fax: +256 414 500 932 Email: [email protected] Investment House, Plot 4, Wampewo Avenue, Kololo.P.O.Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda.

Entebbe International Airport (Ticketing Office): Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 41771722 Email: [email protected] or [email protected] 2nd Floor, Passenger Terminal Building, Entebbe, Uganda.

PLEASE NOTE : After working hours: Weekdays (17:45 hrs - 21:00 hrs), Saturday (14:00 hrs - 21:00 hrs) and Sunday (07:30 hrs - 21:00 hrs) Please call our Entebbe ticketing office on Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 417 717 222 for assistance.


LandUganda is a compact country, with an area of 236,580 square kilometres – roughly the size of Great Britain.

ClimateAlthough situated on the equator, Uganda’s relatively high altitude tempers the heat, and humidity is generally low. Throughout the year sunshine averages about 6 to 10 hours a day. There are two rainy seasons: the main long rains, which start late in February and end in April, and the short rains, which start in October and run until about the middle of December. The region around Lake Victoria, however, receives rain at almost any time of the year.

TopographyIt is located on the equator, within the eastern plateau region of the African continent and between the eastern and western ridges of the Great Rift Valley. Near the borders several mountain masses stand out strikingly from the plateaux.

EconomyUganda is blessed with fertile soils that support a wide variety of food and export crops, both annual and perennial. Agriculture is the dominant sector of Uganda’s economy. The major traditional export crops are coffee, cotton, tea, horticulture, tobacco and sugar cane, while groundnuts, maize, beans, sorghum and millet have emerged in recent years as cash crops for the peasant farmers.

LanguageEnglish is the official language and is also the medium of instruction in Uganda’s education system, from primary school up to university level. Swahili is also spoken. There are some 30 indigenous languages spoken in the rural areas. The most common of these are Luganda and Luo.

Electric supplyAll installations are of British standard and appliances should be fitted with the square, three-pin plugs of British specifications. The voltage is 240 volts, 50 Hz for domestic use. The voltage fluctuates continually, however, and proper surge protectors are advisable for any expensive equipment.

TimeUganda is three hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Timeremains constant throughout the year.

PeopleThe people are warm, friendly, and full of humour. They are anxious to make friends with visitors and are continually asking guests whether they are comfortable and enjoying themselves. A large number of people speak English.

ExcursionsUganda is beginning to develop an excellent tourist infrastructure, with first-rate roads and communication facilities. Uganda’s national game, forest and recreational parks are indeed some of the spectacular showpieces Africa has to offer. They do have regulations regarding off-the-road driving, game watching, and so on, which are clearly stated at the entrance gates of parks or on leaflets supplied by the tourist offices. Mountaineering safaris to the Ruwenzori Mountains in the western Rift Valley are now becoming a favourite Ugandan expedition. Similar safaris can also be organised to climb Mount Elgon in the east, sharing the border with Kenya.

HotelsThere are international-standard hotels in Entebbe, Kampala and Jinja, as well as in many of the smaller towns. Camping, rustic bush camps and guest houses are also available. The Kampala Sheraton, the Serena Kampala, the Grand Imperial, and the Nile Hotel, all in the national’s capital are by the best. There are many other less expensive, but quite nice hotels in the city. Outside Kampala, most towns also have a variety of moderately priced and budget hotels.

Banking hoursThere is a wide range of banks in Uganda, particularly in Kampala. Their hours are generally from 0830 to 1400 hours on weekdays, and Saturdays from 0830 to 1200 hours. Forex bureaux keep longer hours – 0900 to 1700 hours on weekdays and 0900 to 1300 hours on Saturdays. ATMs are available in the larger cities.

CommunicationsTelephone, telex, fax and airmail services connect Kampala to all parts of the world. Services are available at the General Post Office and its many branches, as well as in the main hotels. International direct dialling is available and now there are a number of Internet cafes.

Medical servicesUganda has good health services, with some good government and private hospitals and clinics in the major cities. Air rescue services are available.

CurrencyUganda Shilling (UGX). Notes are in denominations of UGX 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000. Coins are in denominations of UGX 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. You can change money at banks and hotels. Although the forex bureaux usually have better exchange rates.

Credit cardsInternational credit cards are accepted in major hotels and shops.

Working hoursShops and businesses are generally open from 0830 to 1730 hours on weekdays, with a lunch break between 1300 and 1400 hours. Some busi-nesses are open on Saturday, at least until midday. Small, local shops or kiosks on the side of many roads are generally open much later, until about 2130 hours and on weekends and holidays as well; they stock basic food and household items.

Public Holidays

20111 January New Year’s Day26 January Liberation Day8 March International Women’s Day22 April Good Friday25 April Easter Monday1 May Labour Day3 June Martyrs’ Day9 June National Heroes’ Day30 August Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan)9 October Independence Day6 November Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice)25 December Christmas Day26 December Boxing Day

Note:The two Muslim holidays, Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximate.

CustomsBesides personal effects, a visitor may import duty-free spirits (including liquors) or wine up to one litre, perfume and toilet water up to half a litre and 270 grammes of tobacco or 200 cigarettes. Other imported items, not exceeding US$100 may be brought in duty free and without an import licence, provided they are not prohibited or restricted goods, are for personal use, and are not for resale.

Note: A special permit is required to export game trophies.

Health requirementsVisitors from areas infected with yellow fever and cholera required certificates on inoculation. All visitors are advised to take an antimalarial prophylactic beginning two weeks before their arrival and continuing for six weeks after their departure. A gamma globulin injection provides some protection against possible infection by hepatitis and is well worth taking.

Visa and immigration requirementsVisa applications may be obtained at Uganda diplomatic missions. Two photographs are required for visas, which are usually issued within 24 hours. Visas are also available at the country’s entry points. Check with the Uganda diplomatic mission in your country if visa is required as some countries are exempted.

Taxi servicesTaxis are immediately available at Entebbe International Airport. They can also be found outside most hotels in Kampala and at most of the country’s major centres. All don’t have meters, so make sure the fare is negotiated in advance.

Car rentalSeveral firms operate car hire services in Kampala. Vehicles may be hired with or without driver. For trips outside the city it is possible to hire insured cars appropriate for the trip (a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a driver-translator is recommended).

Entebbe International AirportThe main point of entry is Entebbe International Airport, about a 30-minute drive south of the capital, Kampala. Although modest, the modern airport does provide automated passenger facilities, currency exchange, postal services, banking facilities, telephoned, duty-free shops, gift shops and a restaurant and bar.

SecurityThe same rules apply for Kampala as for almost any city anywhere.Becareful and take the usual precautions to safeguard yourself and your belongings. Do not leave valuables in your car. Walking at night in all major centres is reasonably safe.

TIPS FOR THE TRAVELLER IN UGANDA


CROSSWORD PUZZLE & SUDOKU

Clues Across1. Geometric food? (6,4)

6. Get a taxi here for the film maker. (4)

10. Extinct flightless birds. (5)

11. A dominant move for condemnation. (9)

12. Misleadingly-named, he is often relatively small. (8)

13. Colossal vote for burst of fire. (5)

15. This bun sounds like food and drink! (7)

17. Vectors turns to shelters. (7)

19. Confused beast of burden swallows direct debit and takes note. (7)

21. Alarm as mixture produces wine! (7)

22. Land of broken heart? (5)

24. Sneers so badly at painful discomfort. (8)

27. Timely one around very quiet mystery tour. (9)

28. Cooker for the wide-open space perhaps. (5)

29. It ebbs and flows as edit returns. (4)

30. Glen tenses up but reveals mildness of character. (10)

Clues Down1. Sidney adds point for the team. (4)

2. Beneath the labourer, that’s sneaky! (9)

3. Rinse out the plant exudation. (5)

4. Ed omits to turn for fashionable dressmaker. (7)

5. Two men brought to account with calendar. (7)

7. Where there’s this, there’s a way! (1,4)

8. Famously portrayed by Yul Brynner (4,2,4)

9. Permit ended Jewish festival. (8)

14. Extinguished problems with the postal service? (7,3)

16. Everyone present and compos mentis. (3,5)

18. Don sarees to produce better driving? (4.5)

20. Food is put everywhere to contain quarrel. (7)

21. Melodic embellishment. (7)

23. Rodney takes in PE and is tied. (5)

25. Bravery – this is sensitive. (5)

26. Busy creatures! (4)

Place a number from

1 to 9 in every empty

cell so that each row,

each column and each

3x3 box contains all

the numbers from 1

to 9. No number can

appear twice in a row,

column or 3x3 box.

Do not guess – you

can work it out by a

process of elimination.

Crossword

Sudoku

16 17 18

19 20

22

21

23 24 25

26

27 28

3029

13

15

14

12

11

9

7 81 2 3 4 5 6

10

2 6

6

6

9

1

99

8

84

86

42

99

93

8

62

1

74

7

15

2

2

Answers across1. Square meal | 6. Rank | 10. Dodos | 11. Damnation | 12. Grandson | 13. Salvo | 15. Teacake | 17. Coverts | 19. Muddled | 21. Marsala | 22. Earth | 24. Soreness | 27. Opportune | 28. Range | 29. Tide | 30. Gentleness |

Answers down1. Side | 2. Underhand | 3. Resin | 4. Modiste | 5. Almanac | 7. A will | 8. King of Siam | 9. Passover | 14. Stamped out | 16. All there | 18. Road sense | 20. Dispute | 21. Mordent | 23. Roped | 25. Nerve | 26.Bees |

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