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CHAS ARTHUR • GRAPHIC DESIGN PORTFOLIO

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ARTHUR


MAGAzINE • EASTMANS’ BOwHUNTING

®

JournalBOWHUNTING

THE #1 MAGAZINE FOR HARDCORE WESTERN BOWHUNTING

US $5.99 • Canada $7.99

Jul • Aug 2009DISPLAY UNTIL SePTember 10

Great Bow trophies from states

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BOOKS • HUNTING TROPHY ANTELOPE & IDAHO’S GREATEST wHITETAIL

Some of the topics covered are:• Field judging trophy antelope • Antelope behavior, home range, and stages of the rut• Stalking antelope with rifle and bow• Antelope hunting equipment• Using decoys, calls, and blinds• State-by-state breakdown

Mik

e EASTM

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© 2008 Eastmans’ Publishing Inc. • Ventures, Inc. • P. O. Box 798 • Powell, Wyoming 82435 • www.eastmans.comPrinted in Canada

CompanionDVD included!

MIKE EASTMAN

Hunting tropHy Antelope

a Do-it-yourself guide

Hunting tropHy Antelope

Mike Eastman has been hunting the West for 50 years, and is widely recognized as a leading authority on Western trophy big game hunting. Following in the footsteps of his father, Gordon Eastman (a pioneer in the hunting and wildlife filming industry), Mike successfully built Eastmans’ Publishing, Inc. – an entity widely known not only as the authority on North American big game hunting, but also for its stalwart fair chase hunting ethics.

Hunting Trophy Antelope – a Do-it-Yourself Guide is Mike Eastman’s third book in a series on trophy hunting the West, and follows best-selling books Hunting High Country Mule Deer and Elk Hunting the West – The Eastman Way. It is easily the most comprehensive book on antelope hunting ever written. All live, color antelope photos in this book were taken on huntable public land.

L imited edit ion

a Do-it-yourself guide

By Ryan Hatfield

Idaho’s Greatest WHItetaIls

first edition

Idaho’s Greatest W

hitetails

By R

yan Hatfield

When you open Idaho’s Greatest Whitetails, be prepared to be amazed and overwhelmed. The Gem State has produced some of the biggest and most spectacular whitetails west of the

Mississippi, and this collectible book allows you to see them all together in their finest form. With great stories and many first-person accounts, you’ll hear how they were taken - often in exciting, harrowing, and completely unexpected ways.

This book follows Idaho’s Greatest Mule Deer and Idaho’s Greatest Elk as the third book in an ongoing series that will eventually capture a significant amount of Idaho’s big game hunting history. Written by an Idaho native with 30 years of Idaho hunting experience, Idaho’s Greatest Whitetails is the definitive book on Idaho whitetail hunting history and heritage.

Included within these 350-plus pages are:

• Nearly 500 full-color photos of Idaho’s most amazing trophy whitetails.• Sections on Idaho’s greatest non-typicals and typicals.• A complete analysis of where Idaho’s Boone and Crock-

ett-class whitetails come from, as well as past and cur-rent trends.

• A special field photo section.• Some of Idaho’s most spectacular shed antlers.

Join us in this special tribute to the ghosts of the Idaho forest. It’s a book sure to occupy a special place on your mantle for many years to come.

Idaho’s Greatest WHItetaIls

first edition

© 2010 Idaho’s Greatest Big GameBox 2 • Council, Idaho • 83612

www.idahobiggame.comPrinted in Canada


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DUE NORTH DVD • PACKAGE DESIGN, MENU AUTHORING AND VIDEO EDITING

©2008 Eastmans’ Publishing • 1-800-842-6887 www.eastmans.com • P.O. Box 798, Powell, WY 82435

Whether it’s trudging through waist-high snow deep in the Canadian Rockies, crawling across the soggy tundra of northern Quebec, saddled up on a sure-footed mount in Yukon Territory, or crossing spring-runoff-swollen rivers in BC, it’s all part of hunting the North Country - the Eastman Way. North Country adventures are magical and captivating. It’s no coincidence the Eastman family has been hunting there for three generations, starting in the 1950s. Join Eastmans’ staff as they hunt the North Country with rifles and bows on 100% fair chase hunts. Adventure abounds as they find world-class trophies on world-class adventures. Watch in awe as some of the biggest trophies ever taken on film are downed, including a monster 440 gross B&C caribou! Sit tight - the cameras are rollin’, the barrels are smokin’, the bows are thumpin’, and there are plenty of big bulls, bears, and billies on the horizon.

on DVD

14 Hunts

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• 6 Bowhunts• BC Grizzly Hunt• 3 Caribou Species Hunted• BC Mountain Goat• Yukon Trophy Moose Hunt• Huge Alaska Brown Bear

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Run Time: Over 80 Minutes


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MAGAzINE • ELK HUNTER

NATE SIMMONS BAcKcOUNTRY EDITOR

7 Steps to Better Backpack HuntingIn our Backpacking column, we spend

a lot of time talking about very specific things. While these are all very important, sometimes it’s nice to back away from it and think about the simple, big picture items to keep in mind at all times when backpack hunting; things that can quickly make or break a hunt no matter how much preparation you have done. Here are seven tips to always keep at the forefront of your mind.

1. Keep Your Feet DryNothing has the ability to destroy a

backpack hunt like blisters, and one of the fastest ways to get them is by hiking in wet boots. While keeping your feet dry sounds simple enough, it always seems to be an is-sue - even on fair-weather hunts. Things like creek crossings and dew on the grass can be just as effective at soaking your feet as a hard rain - sometimes even more so - because they seem so innocent when com-pared to a big dark cloud. Don’t let these things sneak up on you, because drying soaked boots in the backcountry isn’t easy. Take extra precautions when crossing a stream, rather than saying “To heck with it; it’s not that deep. I’m just gonna run for it,” and then feeling like an idiot when you reach the other side and feel the wa-ter swamping your boots. Wet grass from morning dew is a real sneaky assassin as well, because it doesn’t have to be very tall to reach the top of your boots and end up running down your socks. To me it seems ridiculous to be putting on the rain pants in the morning when it hasn’t even rained in a week, but that’s often what it takes to keep my feet dry for the first couple hours of daylight until the dew dries.

2. Drink Enough WaterAs simple as it sounds, it’s sure not

easy in the backcountry. Basically, what I’m doing on my backpack hunts is man-aging dehydration more so than hydra-tion. It would be very difficult to never get somewhat dehydrated on a backpack hunt. The key is to not allow yourself to become too dehydrated, as things can go south in a hurry, both mentally and physically. Most

of us train to get into backpacking shape, so what’s the point if a well-conditioned body doesn’t get what it needs most to per-form? Have a plan for your water intake and water gathering frequency and stick to it. I like to pack 2.5 liters with me in my pack during the day and keep plenty of water in camp so I can drink enough wa-ter in the mornings before I leave and at night before I go to bed. I pack an extra 4-liter Platypus reservoir that I fill up and leave in camp for this purpose. Knowing where the water sources are is another fac-tor; preseason scouting for the best places to get water efficiently is as important as scouting for elk.

3. Do Your HomeworkThis includes scouting, talking to biol-

ogists, surveying maps and Google Earth, etc. For me, there’s always a big difference in how much energy and time I waste hunting when I haven’t done the home-work I should have. While there’s nothing like actually physically scouting the area, the technology we have access to today is an effective tool for learning the ins and outs of our hunting areas. For example, even on hunts in places I’ve never been before, I usually already know how far I have to hike the first day and the best van-tage points in the area by spending some time on Google Earth. Talking with forest

rangers has also been helpful in finding out what trails have been cleared recently or are nearly impassible with livestock. Getting the current forest travel maps has also saved me some serious pain by know-ing what roads are open and closed, which can make a huge difference in knowing the best way to pack out an elk or access an area. Believe me, there is nothing that sucks more than hiking six miles with 50 lbs. on your back and then crossing a four-wheeler trail you didn’t know was there. Without making an effort in researching a new area, you’re likely to spend the first portion of your hunt scouting more than hunting.

4. Cut the CrapBeing able to carry your pack around

without it being painful is crucial. You re-ally have to know the difference between what you want to bring with you and what you need to bring. Less is more when it comes to backpack hunting. A good way to accomplish this is by getting yourself a scale and weighing everything you plan on taking. Doing this really helps you become more aware of every single item and helps in the decision-making process of decid-ing what goes and what doesn’t. We all have gear that we could upgrade and get something better and lighter; try and pick the item that would save the most weight

Backpacking is serious business in big country. Don’t take it lightly. The more prepared you are to mitigate disaster, the better off you’ll be.

18 ELK HUNTER MAGAZINE GEAR • TACTICS • INFORMATION • ADVENTURE

GEARFOR ELK

In the last 20 years, the quality and quantity of optical tools available to sportsmen has

grown at an exponential rate. In the mid ‘80s, there were a handful of American manufac-turers and less than half a dozen foreign companies delivering products to our shores. Today, in just a matter of minutes I could list two or three dozen and still miss one of the big ones! All of these options seem great,

but with many choices comes many sales pitches and an infinite number of opinions. In order to make an informed buying deci-sion, it’s important to understand the lan-guage of optics, what part your vision plays and how to conduct your own test. This article is the first in a long series that will appear in Elk Hunter Magazine and our sister publication Western Hunter Magazine.

GEARFOR ELK

From the time light strikes the objective lens of the binocular until the time it

emerges from the ocular lens, it goes through an intense array of bends, reflections, splits and re-convenes in a compressed state. How well each of the man-made components handles this task contributes to the quality of the image we see as hunters. Man’s fasci-nation with being able to see farther has driven the science behind the technology so intensely that there are no corners left to cut and no cheap gains; building a quality bin-ocular requires meticulous attention to de-

tail at every step. Here are some of the terms that we’ll frequently use during this series of product reviews, what they mean, and why they’re important to hunters. This is a list of the most commonly used terms in reference to hunting optics. Objective Lens: This is the large lens in the front of the binocular. It is measured in millimeters and is the second number in the numerical description of a binocular. For ex-ample, a 10x42 will have an objective lens of 42mm. The diameter determines the volume of light that initially enters the binocular.

Ocular Lens: This is the small but com-plex lens closest to the eye. Lens Coatings: All uncoated glass natu-rally reflects up to 10% light; in fact, it reflects light on the front and the back surfaces, cre-ating some real problems. First of all, any light that is reflected is obviously not trans-mitted, so the image appears dimmer than it should. The darker it becomes, the less detail we can perceive. Also, when light is reflected inside the binocular, it gets bounced around, which further degrades the quality of the image. A thin chemical coating of select ma-terials can minimize the light reflection and consequently control the light for a brighter and sharper image. Quality lens coatings are expensive to apply, but their importance cannot be underrated. The difference in price and performance between $150 10x42s and $2500 10x42s can be in large part attributed to the quality of the lens coatings. Power: What seems like a simple defini-tion is one of the most often misunderstood qualities of a binocular. The most accurate way to describe power is by how much closer an object appears. For example, a deer stand-ing at 500 yards viewed with a 10x binocular would appear to be standing at 50 yards (or 10 times closer). With an 8x, it would be 62.5 yards, and with a 15x, the deer would appear to be 33.3 yards away. Power is always the first number in the numerical description of the binocular; hence a 10x50 is 10 power. Exit Pupil: The exit pupil is the shaft of light that exits the ocular lens of the binocu-lar and enters the eye. As light enters a bin-ocular, it is compressed, and the extent of

that compression is equal to the magnifica-tion. In the case of a 10x42mm, the shaft of light entering the binocular through the ob-jective lens is 42mm and it is magnified or compressed by a factor of 10; this results in an exit pupil of 4.2mm (42mm/10x). A 10x50 would deliver a 5mm exit pupil, and a 10x25 would of course offer a 2.5mm shaft of light. The pupil of the human eye dilates and constricts based on the availability of light. The brighter it is, the smaller the pupil gets (down to 2mm) and the darker it gets, the more it expands (up to 5-7mm depending on age). Keep in mind, the vast majority of the day your pupils will be constricted to less than 4mm, meaning a maximum of 4mm of light can enter the eye. So during this time, an equivalent 10x50 does not offer an advantage over a 10x42, but as the daylight fades and the pupil dilates past 4.2mm, the greater volume of light delivered by the 10x50 will become more apparent. Field of View (FOV): This is the numer-ical quantification of the amount of land-scape that can be viewed in feet from a dis-tance of 1000'. I prefer a binocular with a wider field of view when I’m glassing from a tripod, because I can effectively use that FOV. But if I’m hand-holding the binocular, I can only realistically use the middle of the FOV, so it’s much less critical. A wide-angle de-sign can also diminish the depth of field in the image, so it should be balanced with your intended purpose for the binocular. Twilight Factor: We’ve already estab-lished that the larger the exit pupil is, the brighter the image will appear when the pu-pil dilation is equal to or greater than the exit pupil of the optic. Twilight factor takes into account the power of the binocular in conjunction with the exit pupil. Imagine you’re standing in a dark room looking for the light switch. The closer you get to the switch, the easier it is to see. So even though magnification can reduce the brightness of the image, you may be able to see greater detail because you are in essence standing closer to the object. To calculate twilight fac-tor, you take the square root of the power multiplied by the objective lens diameter. Resolution: In its most basic definition, resolution is the ability to distinguish be-tween two lines. As hunters, this is what we would call “clarity” or “sharpness”. Strong

In future issues, we’ll take an in-depth look at mid-price-point binoculars, spotting scopes, riflescopes, laser rangefinders, and ultra-high-magnification binoculars. Hopefully we can help you sort the facts from the fic-tion and help you make the best choice for your hunting style.

A Detailed Optics Primerresolution is the end product of quality components and quality manufactur-ing practices. When you pay top dollar for binoculars, this is what you are paying for. When the nurse in elementary school made you read the letter on the eye chart, she was essentially conducting a resolution test of your vision. Light Transmission: Some amount of light is lost (reflected) at every air to lens in-terface and on the mirror surfaces of the prisms within the binocular. The very best lens and lens coating combinations can de-liver 99.9% transmission, but as much as much as 4% can be lost on each surface of a prism. Also, we must keep in mind that some light, such as UV and IR, cannot be seen by the human eye. So, if this portion of light is included in a light transmission claim, it can be misleading. Unfortunately, there is no accepted industry standard for testing total light transmission, so compar-ing one company’s claim to another is all but impossible. Diopter Adjustment: This is nothing new to those of you who require vision cor-rection, but there can be a significant differ-ence between the way our own two eyes view an object. When significant, this problem is corrected by the optometrist by prescribing lenses with different levels of correction. But when we look through a 10x binocular, this same difference is 10 times worse, so it can become an issue to non-eyeglass users

as well. So optics manu-factures offer what is called

a diopter adjustment on cen-tral focus binoculars that allows

you to independently focus one side of the binocular in order to balance the two im-ages. This adjustment may be on the collar of the binocular right below the lens cup (usually on the right side) or may be near the central focus wheel. Chromatic Aberration: Due to the wave nature of light, the different color bands are refracted to different degrees as they pass through a lens. Prisms (and rainbows) are the most dramatic example of how light can be separated into its different components. As an image moves through the multiple prisms and lenses of a binocular or spotting scope, without corrective measures this sep-aration can create “flaring” on the edges of the subject, degrading the image quality. With increased magnification, as in the case of spotting scopes, this problem is most ap-parent. Chromatic aberrations can be mini-mized with multiple lens systems and/or special lens coatings. Every company has a proprietary name for their solution such as HD, APO, ED, XD, etc... In the last few years, the high performance companies began in-corporating these solutions into their bin-oculars in an attempt to pry out the last bit of resolution and truer color rendition.

Chris denhamhunting editor

A binocular is a complex combination of prisms, lenses, and coatings that must work in concert

to deliver a flawless image.

60 ELK HUNTER MAGAZINE GEAR • TACTICS • INFORMATION • ADVENTURE


CALENDAR • FLY GIRLS


SOCIAL MEDIA AND VIDEO SOLUTIONSVideo samples can be found on my YouTube page:

https://www.youtube.com/user/chazmatic123

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