Arco Climbing Guide

8/22/2019 Arco Climbing Guide

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Trento

Verona

Brescia

Sal

Garda

Roverto

Mori

Riva d. Garda

Arco

DirectionVenezia

DirectionMilano

DirectionBolzano

Arco and outlaying areas, Italy

Valle del Sarca

Stallavena

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden


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N

1

2

3 4

7

511

10

12

14

13

9

17

18

19

20

Arco

Massone

Dro

Ceniga

Pietramurata

Sarche

LasinoStravino

Cavedine

Brusino

Drena

LagodiCavedine

Nago

Mori

Besagno

Loppio

Tierno

Lago di Garda

Riva di Garda

61. Massone2. Terra Promessa3. Colodri Pareti Est, Sport Roccia andMassi di Prabi4. Rupe Secca Est and Sud5. Salt de la Cavra6. Pilastri povero e Afgano7. Red point wall8. Muro dellAsino9. Swing Area and Diamante10. Belvedere

11. Marmitte dei Gigante12. Nago13. Passo S. Giovanni14. Besagno15. Mori16. Punta Corna di Boand Spiaggia delle Lucertole17. Transatlantico,Camerete,Muro di Chitarra,Baule andGiardini di Nato18. Sisyphos19. San Siro20. Cavedine21. Marciaga (not on this map, location near Garda)22. Stallavena (not on this map, location near Verona)

15

16

Torbole

8


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1

P

PP Massone

Arco

DirectionRovereto

DirectionTrento San Martino

P

L agodiGarda

Keymap, Approach, Massone

N 45 55.736

EO 10 54.173

How to find the crag:

Drive from Arco in the direction of Trento. About 300 metres after you have passed thebridge a road to the right is signposted MASSONE, S. MARTINO. Follow that road toMassone. After a short tunnel turn left in the direction of FALECIA POLICROMURA andBRAILIA-BE-DRENA . In the following T-junction, turn right. You will find the first car park2 km after you have left Arco at your left side on this small road, and further into the olivefield you will find a small boulder crag 50 metres from the car park. Continue to the first

hairpin and you will find a second car park. To get to the last, overhanging part of this crag,continue and pass tree hairpin bends. After about 200 metres, park on the left side, followthe road ahead until you find a small road that turns into the wood on your left. Take thatroad, take the big track down to the left to reach the crag.Massone is a beautiful crag, easy to access and perfect for anyone, including families.The magic big cave is impressive, for old as for children.



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1.Piccola Luna 4a2. Formica Lodovica 5a3. Giacca gialla 5b4. Banane fisch 5a5. Lara Croft 5c6. Galateria Tarifa 6a+7. Easy Rider 6c8. Alce volante 6a9. Boiacca 5c10. Giuditta 6a11. Pesce daprile 6a

12. Mingus 6b13. Pegasus 6a+14. Zac 5a15. Tac 5a

1

12

111098

7

654

32

151413

The cragcontinue

L agodiGarda

1.1. Massone, left part

20 m.Southeast


Take me to1.2./1.3./1.4./1.5./ 1.6./1.7./1.8.


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1. ? 6a+2. Fra fra 6b3. Fur eine Hand 6a+

4. Dottor Plantier 6a5. Zl 6a6. Nino 6a7. Tangram 6a+8. La bamba 7a+9. The mirror 6c10. Spectrum 6b+11. Red Point 7a+12. Mirta del Pineto 7a+13. Marsabit 7c

14. Stressami 7c15. Desiree 7b16. Loacher 7b+17. Not normal 7a18. Vite minori 6c19. Let me life 7b20. Il ladro 8a21. C qualcuno 7b22. Deasy 6c23. Tis sa arc 6b+24. Cannonau 7a

25. Crisi 7a26. Via le man 7a

1

12

1110987

54

2 1514

13

63

2120

2522

18,19

16

19

2423

See route 1.1.3.

17

26

L agodiGarda

1.2. Massone, left part

25 m.Southeast


Take me to 1.1./1.3./1.4./1.5. 1.6./1.7./1.8.


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1. Marlene 7a+2. Greta 7a3. Sulla pancia 7c+

4. Mantide Atea direct 6c+5. Mantida Atea 7b+6. I buoni cattivi 7c7. Sangit 7a+8. Panico sopra lorlo 7c9. Profumo di invisible 8a10. Soviet supremo 7b11. Bevery Hills 7b+12. Kabul 6b13. I like Gorba 6c

14. Killer event 7b+15. Action direct 6c+16. Incantesimo 8a17. Ricky Bike 8a

1

8

7

4,52

63

1211

109

151413

1716See route26. TO. 1.2.

LagodiGarda

1.3. Massone, middle part

30 m.Southeast


Take me to1.1./1.2./1.4./1.5. 1.6./1.7./1.8.


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11. Over booking 6a12. Raper 5c

1. Musetto e Big Gim 6b+ 13. Settima Luna 6c+2. Super Golia 6c+ 14. Ektoplasma 6b3. Heliotrop 7b 15. Odio la polvere 6b4. Berny 7c+ 16. Lunicorno 5c5. Ictus 6c+ 17. Stattento 5c6. Destinazione Arena 7c+ 18. Impretrites 5b7. Sabato turistico 6c 19. Marinas 5a8. Prime impressioni 6a

9. Tullio e lamore 6a10. Hurgada 6b

1

121110

987

4

2

151413

6

3

17165

1918

Lago diGarda

1.4. Massone, middle part

25 m.Southeast


Take me to1.1./1.2./1.3./1.5./1.6./1.7./1.8.


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1 98

742 63 5

1. Rettoscopie 6b+

2. Il culto 6b3. Fata Morgana 7a+4. Il rotorno di Aly 6b+5. Ulla 6c6. Un bacio di Karin 7a+7. Halloween 7a8. Ottopromille 6c+9. Briciola 6c

Lago diGarda

1.5. Massone, right part

20 m.Southeast


Take me to1.1./1.2./1.3./1.4./1.6./1.7./1.8.


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1

874

2

6

3

5

1. Brioche 7c

2. La chiave 7b+3. Utopia 6b+4. Zelda 7c5. Red rocks 8a6. Alpen liebe 6c+7. Il calabrese 7c8. Open area 8a+9. M.S. 7c10. Beach boys 7b11. ? 8a+

12. Disneland 7c13. Efrem de Sisco 7a+14. Rubagotti 7c15. Epilogo 7a+16. Bonsai 7c+17. Abissi 7c18. Pilotwings 7c

12

11

109

15

1413

1716

See route 1.1.7.

18

Lago diGarda


40 m.Southeast


Take me to1.1./1.2./1.3./1.4./1.5./1.7./1.8.


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1

8,9

74

2

63 5

1. Cannabis 7b+2. Only locals 7b+3. Gameboy 7b3.1. Gameboy plus 8a4. Ultimo dubbio 7a+5. Il vizzietto 7c6. La cucina 8a7. Fessura porta 7a8. Il cattivo ist berall 7c9. Meglio un giallo 7c10. Ramses 7c11. Ludness 7a12. Warner Broz 7b13. Il ballatoio 6c14. La cura della fessura 6c15. Mangia cacca 7a

16. Gino e la sfiga 6b+17. La scolaro 6b+18. Aladin 7a19. Adelante 7a+20. Duracell 7b

12,13

11

10

1514 171619

18

20

913

3.1

Lago diGarda


30 m.Southeast


Take me to1.1./ 1.2./1.3./1.4./1.5./1.6./1.8.


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Lago diGarda

1 8,9

4

6,7

5

10,

11,12,13

16

14

20,21

23,2422

26

25

2 3

7

912

11

1817

1920

24

30

31

15

3233

2827

29

1. Blondhopf 7b+ 8. Randa 8a+ 15. Reinis Vibos 8c 28. El Riccio 8a+

2. Troppo leicht 7b+ 9. Fuego 8b 16. La Pietra murata 8b+ 29. The best off 8a3. Troppo schwar 8b 10. Underground 8c+ 17. ? 8a+ 30. Obsession 7b+4. Super attico 7c+ 11. X-Large 8c 18. Shaved beaver 7c 31. ? 7c+5. Haleboop 8b+ 12. Super Maratona 8b 19. Flytrap 7a 32. The brohen vase 7c+6. Grado dipendenti 7c 13. Maratona 8b 20. Twingo 7b+ 33. Better days 7b7. Big spender 7b+ 14. Athena 8b+ 21. KathaMartina 7b

22. Mike Jordan 8b23. Thin Ice 7b24. Spleen 7a25. Hochseitzpfeiler 8a+

26. Heroes del Silencio 8b+27. Man spricht deutsch 8b

1.8. Massone, far right

25 m. ( nr. 16 are 45 m.)Southeast


Take me to1.1./1.2./1.3./1.4./1.5./1.6./ 1.7.


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1

P

PP Massone

Arco

DirectionRovereto

DirectionTrento San Martino

P

2

DirectionTroiana

P

Lago diGarda

1 84 6

14 15

2 37

91211

5

13

10

2.2.

2.1.

2.1.

1. Cinema Paradiso ?2. Carnevale 7a3. Nice Price ?4. Elefant ?5. Orange Juice ?6. Brown sugar 8a7. Brasl ?8. Efeu Tanz 7b9. Blov Job 7a10. Canna Cannon 7b

11. Red Points 7c12. Lo Hobbit 8a13. Renni ?14. Mama Africa 8a+15. Mama 8b16. Tula (no TOPOS) 7b


Take me to 2.2. How to find the crag:

Drive from Arco in the direction ofTrento. About 300 metres after youhave passed the bridge a road tothe right is signposted MASSONE,

S. MARTINO. Follow that road toMassone. After a short tunnel turnleft in the direction of FALECIAPOLICROMURA and BRAILIA-BE-DRENA . In the following T-junction,turn right. Pass the Massone andcontinue 3 km. In the T-junction,turn left and in the first hairpin youwill find a car park. Walk 150 metresup to the crag.

2.1. Terra Promessa

N 45 56.529EO 10 55.018 (Car park)

35 m.West, Southwest


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L agodiGarda

1

86

23

7 912

11513

10

15 1716

4

1. Nanur 6a+ 9. O Pio mio 7c+2. US Open 6a+ 10. Tribout 8a3. Rere 6a 11. Cathy 7c4. Lorenzo 6a+ 12. Solimano 8a5. Cris Crocco 6b 13. Marco gelato 8b6. Lochness 6a, 6c+ 14. Cludio Caff 8c7. Luca Joint 6c+ 15. Aerodromo 8b+8. Weisswurst 7b 16. ? ?

17. Hydra 8a

14

2.2. Terra Promessa

30 m.West, Southwest


Take me to 2.1.


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1

86

2

37

9 12115

104

P

P

P

DirectionTrento

DirectionNago

Camping

Private

Restaurant

3.1.

3.2.

3.3.

3.4.

4

Arco

1. Povero illuso 7c2. ? ?3. Pericoloso sporgerti 6a4. Mani pulite 6b+5. Betazza 6a+6. Ciciuz 6a7. O sole mio 6a+8. Soltanto un gioco 6a+9. Anna e... 6a10. E per si muove 5c11. Tienila 5c12. Donaldo 5a

LagodiGarda

3.1. Massi di Prabi

15 m.North


Take me to3.2./ 3.3. How to find the crag:

From South ( Riva del Garda). Drive trough Arco,just before the road turns to the right over a bridgea smaller road leads straight ahead down to a carpark. From this car park it is easy to view thecrags, and a good place to have as a meetingpoint. It is near to the Arco old city, with climbingstores, restaurants and shops. Masi di Prabi istwo smaller crags in an boulder area near theCamping where you will find a indoor boulder wall.Park at the car park between the Camping and abar. Continue on the small road about 200-300metres. On your left is a restaurant CALIFORNIA.Take the road in the direction of the restaurantcar park, turn left on the track and after about 50metres you will find crag 3.2.To find Sport Roccia (3.3.), continue to the rightand towards Colodri Est. This crag has sportroutes on a small part of Colodri Est. To reachthe multi pitch routes on Colodri Est, take thesame approach.


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1. Barna lama 6b2. Politema 7a

3. Il male sconfitto 7a4. Egoista 6b+5. Strane idee 6b6. Zoo caming 6a7. Sud Africa 6b+8. Lucia 6a9. Via del Maurilio 4a10. Ancora una 5a

Lago diGarda

1,28

6

2

37

9

5

10

4

3.2. Massi di Prabi

15 m.North


Take me to3.1./3.3.


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1. Camouflage 6c 10. ? ?2. Cupido 6b 11. ? ?3. Daphne 7b 12. ? ?4. Palline 7b 13. Sayonara club 6c+5. Cactus 6c 14. Il dolce far niente 7a6. No money 6c+ 15. Black crak 7a,6c+7. Andromeda 6b+ 16. Finale maschile 7c

8. Dont worry 6b+ 17. Finalissima 7b9. Orchidea 6c+ 18. Finale Femminile 7aLago diGarda

1

8

6

2 3

7

9

510

4

14

13

1211

15

16

1817

3.3. Sport roccia 86

25 m. One multi pitch 40 m.East


Take me to 3.1./3.2.


18/77

Lago diGarda

GurBassi

Spitfirevarinte

Hammada

Festival

Zanza

ra

4

6b

4

7a

7c

5a

6c

7a+

6b

7c

7c+

7a

7a

7b

4

7c+

6c+6a

6a

6a

6b

6c

7a6b

7b

6a

7b6b+ 6c

7a5c

6a

6b+

6b+

7c

6c

7a

7c

6c

6c

7b

3.4. Colori Est

Multi pitch 300 m.East



19/77

Lago diGarda Styria

Emiliana

Maialine

llo

spazio

Passifalsi

Ricciecapricc

i

AspettandoMartino

7a

6b+

6b

7a+

6b+

6a

6c

6c+

7b

7a

7a

6b

5c

6a

6a

6c

7a

5a3c

4c

4c

6b

6c

7a

6c

6b+

6c+

6b

4c

4c

5a

5c

7a

6b+

P

P

P

Direction

Trento

DirectionNago

Camping

Private

Restaurant

3.1.

3.2.

3.3.

3.4.

4

Arco

4.1. Rupe Secca Est




From South ( Riva del Garda). Drive troughArco, just before the road turns to the rightover a bridge a smaller road leads straightahead down to a car park. From this car parkit is easy to view the crags, and a good placeto have as a meeting point. It is near to the

Arco old city, with climbing stores, restaurantsand shops. This car park is also the place tostart your approach to Rupe Secca Est. Walkto the road that turns left, Via Legionari, andfollow the track to the crag.To reach Rupe Secca Sud the best way isdescribed on TOPOS 4.2.


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P

P

P

DirectionTrento

DirectionNago

Camping

Private

4.1.

Arco

4.2.

4.3.

P

P

DirectionRiva del Garda

Tenniscourt

L agodiGarda

Restaurant

1

86

23

79

5

10

4

1413

1211

15 16 17 20 2118 19

2322

1. La venere nera 7b+ 9. Waunded Knee 6b2. Ivan a tutta canna 7a 10. Sister Moon 6c+3. La larna del sole 7a+ 11. Apache 7a+

4. Sandrino Jones 7a 12. Gli Antenati5. Luomo lichene 6b+ 13. Durazzik Park6. Il Caprone Beato 14. ? ?7. Via Crusis 15. Laal 7a+8. Bravi ma lenti 16. La donna cannone 7a

17. Rupe Morbida 8a18. Zacha 7c19. Diavolina 8a20. Drepano 7b+21. Mani di Burro 7c

22. Lincompiuta 6c+23. Trota 6b+

6a

6c

6c

5b

5c

6a

4b

6c

5c

6a+

6a+

6a

6a+

6a

6b

7a+

6b

6a

6b+


From Camping. Drive on the main road in thedirection of Riva del Garda. In the town, turnright in a crossroad after a Tennis court, ViaC. Battisti. Continue and drive straight forward,

you will pass a park (to your left), ParcoArciducale, and some old parts of Arco, PortaStranforio.The small road will lead you up to Via Crusisand you can park at the big car park in the T-

junction or continue around (one way road)and park at a lay bay on the left side of theroad. Take the track 30 metres to the crag.


4.2. Rupe Secca Sud

30 m. Multi pitch 80 m.South

Take me to 4.3.


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L agodiGarda

1

8

6

23

7

9

10

4

14

1312

11

16 17

5c

5a

5

5c

5b

4a

5c

15

1. Simply Red 6c2. Yena Plinsky 7a3. Preludio 6a, 6b+4. Modesty Blaise 7b+5. Athos projett 7a6. Sher Kahn 6b+7. Virus 6b+8. Bauleni Village 5a, 6a+, 5c9. Gigi il musico 5a, 6b10. Mister caramel 7a11. Passeggiata nel grigio 6c, 7a12. Club Med 7a, 7b13. Alhoa (variant) 7b14. Gobbi-Seiwald15. Bongo

16. Michy en Lory 7a17. Cicciolina spit 6a


4.3. Rupe Secca Sud

25 m. Multi pitch up to 90 m.South

Take me to 4.2.


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Lago diGarda

Arco

P

DirectionRiva del Garda

Tenniscourt

Restaurant

4

5.2.

5.1.

1

6

2 3

79

10

4

1211

5

8

1. Lo scoiaro 6c 7. Spiraglio di sole 7a2. Il caccastrello 7b 8. Aurora 6a3. Brontolosauro ? 9. Tarifa 6b4. ? ? 10. Che cavron 6b5. Any la fata 7c 11. Nutellata tour 6a6. Grey Ape 8a 12. Il bacio della donna senza danti 6a+

13. top Flex 101 6a+14. Red Point 7a

1413


From the Camping. Drive on the main road in the direction of Riva delGarda. In the town, turn right in a crossroad after a Tennis court, ViaC. Battisti. Continue and drive straight forward, you will pass a park (toyour left), Parco Arciducale, and some old parts of Arco, Porta Stranforio.The small road will lead you up to Via Crusis (one way road). At a cross,

just by a small Chapel, turn left in the direction of 408, Mandre, S.Giovanni. Park after 800 meteres, where the small road changes fromasphalt to cement. Continue 30 metres and turn left and follow a tracksignposted 408, Mandre, S. Giovanni.

At the crest, turn right and after 15 metres you will find yourself standingunder a power line mast. Continue straight forward (dont take the trackthat leads to the left or to the right). A small track that could be easy tomiss leads you to the crag after 100 metres.


5.1. Salt de la Cavra

N 45 55.937 (car park)EO 10 52.767

20 m.East

Take me to 5.2.


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Lago diGarda

1

6

2 3 7

9

10

4

5

8

11

1. Pacrili 7a+ 7. Mister Bean ?2. M B 97 7b 8. Beppe il fisico esoterico 6c+3. Livio 6c 9. Ischiatutto 7a4. Mani di burro 7c+ 10. Folle idea 6c5. La bruschettata 7a 11. Il testamento di mio zio 6b+6. Esto es el primero 7a

5.2. Salt de la Cavra

25 m.East

Take me to 5.1.


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LagodiGarda

Arco

P

Restaurant

4

5.2.

5.1.

P6

7

Maramao

Spit

Tornado

Nessuno

nasceimparato

Liberty

Lelune

diPaola

6a+

6a

6c+

6b+

7a

6c

5c

6b

6c

7a

7b

7a+

7c

6b

6b

6a+

6b+

5c

6c

6a+

7a +

7a

6a



just by a small Chapel, turn left in the direction of 408, Mandre, S.Giovanni. The small road changes from asphalt to cement, then it willbecome a gravelled road. Locate the crags, park at a lay bay by theroad and walk to the crag.You will need a double rope to be able to abseil down.


6. Mandrea, I Pilastri Povero and Afgano

Double rope necessary for abseil



25/77

Lago diGarda

Arco

P

Restaurant

4

5.2.

5.1.

P6

7

1. Dietro o davanti 6b+ 8. I suini ?

2. Il riposo ? 9. Piccola peste 7b+3. ? ? 10. Signorina 7b4. ? ? 11. Spirito nero 7b5. ? ? 12. Un coccodrillo 6c+6. Red point trip 7b+ 13. Pippistrello 7b7. Contre di Cavour 7b 14. Felix 7a

15. Riai ?16. lo, tu e Epifanio 7b+17. Gino pilotino 7a18. Bambina 7a

19. La bistecca 7a20. Luomo falso e... 6b+

1

6

2

37

910

4 5

8

11

2019

181716

1514

1312



just by a small Chapel, continue straight forward. 1,5 km after you havepassed the Chapel the road turns to the left, a smaller road leads straightforward and you will find a car park in this T-junction. Park and followthe smaller road 20 - 30 metres. Just before a house a track turns offto the right. Follow this track and when you first meet a crag, in a hairpin,take to the left on a small track and follow that 50 metres to reach thecrag.


7. Red Point Wall

32 m.West


26/77

Arco

P

Restaurant

4

5.2.

5.1.

P6

7

L agodiGarda

1

6

23

7

910,11

4

5

8

1817

1615

141312

19 20

11

1. ? ? 8. Linfaticabile uomo 4c

2. La macc. nera 3c 9. Collezione di ... 5b3. Questione di ... 6a 10. Il manico 4c4. Prima erede 6b 11. Prime esperienze 4b5. Walter lasa 6b 12. La thermos 5a6. Alice nel paese 6b+ 13. Servi della gleba 3c7. Randa de vista 6a+ 14. Boulder con ... 3c

15. Calcio dAngolo 4a16. Corso 97 5a17. Spazzacamino 4a18. ? ?

19. Il dicembre 6a20. Giovanna 5c



just by a small Chapel, park your car and follow the track. After a longwalk, just before you reach the crest, a small track leads straight forwardin a hairpin. Follow that and after about 100 metres you will stand bythe right part of this crag.If you continue the main track you will reach the top of Colodri Est, witha beautiful view.The crag aint one of the best, but together with a nice walk and a niceview it could do.


8. Muro dell Asino

30 m.West


27/77

Lago diGarda

DirectionTrento

ZooCamping

Restaurant

P

P

1

6

2,3

7 9 104 5 8

161514131211

3

1. Pipistrello 7b2. Indiana Jones 7c, 7c3. Super swing 7b+4. La gnogna 7b+

5. Nisida 7c6. Balle bollenti 7c7. La pista 8a8. La gita 7b9. Porca vacca 7c+10. Armando Diaz 7a11. Greppo Greppo 6a, 5a12. Karl Dalle 6c+, 6b+13. Sirac en rut 6b+, 6b14. Topolino 6b+15. Karl Knopf 7a16. Tin tin 6c

9.1. Swing area

35 m. Multi pitch 50 m.East


Take me to 9.2.


Drive from Arco in the direction of Trento but insteadof the main road you take the smaller road on theWest side of the river F. Sarca. You will pass theCamping, after some 100 metres you also pass theZoo Camping. Continue in the direction of Ceniga.

After you have passed a restaurant, La Laterna, you

will be able to locate the crags to your left. Park andfollow the track to the crag.


28/77

L agodiGarda

1. Not only Apple 7a2. Parassiti doltralpe 6c3. Copacabana 7a, 7b+4. ? ?5. Letica del Ba. Ro. 8a+6. Tibbia silinziosa 7c, 7c+7. Dune 7c+8. Spirito libero 8a

1, 2 745, 6

83

2

6

9.2. Diamante

35 m. Multi pitch 55 m.East


Take me to 9.1.


29/77

L agodiGarda

12

13

Nago

Torbole

11

10

11

10

P

P

1, 2

6

7

910

45

8

161514

3

201918

17

21

131211

2

2322

1. Piccola chimera 5c 10. Loro del Reno 6c+2. Via del Biscotto 6a+ 11. Bastiamola li 7a3. Patatina Fritta 6b 12. Worm up 6b4. Renato butta 6b+ 13. Pea Brain 7a

5. Zucchina trafelata 6a 14. Apotecher 7a+6. Fini Flambee 7a+ 15. Cave Cannam 7b+7. Zorro in condotta 6c 16. Last train home 7b+8. Si badrone 7a 17. Povero gatto 7b+9. Naquimo Forti 7a+ 18. Urlo del vento 7a

19. Val di Non 6c+20. Il dolce 6c21. Caff espresso 6b+22. ? ?23. ? ?

10.1. Belvedere

25 m.Southwest



Drive from Arco in the direction of Nago.About 150 metres before you reach the T-junction (Arco, Nago, Torbole) you will finda big car park on your right. The car park

is a sight seeing point with benches andtable.To reach the main crag (10.1.) cross theroad from the car park. Follow a track thatsometimes is a stone waterfall. It is easyto get lost, but the crag is just about 100metres from the car park.This crag offers nice climbing with abeautiful view over Lago di Garda.To reach the small crag (10.2.). Follow theroad in the direction of Nago, cross theroad after 50 metres and you will find atrack. Follow the track into the thicket, nearthe crag, and after 20 metres you will findthe routes.

Take me to 10.2.


30/77

L agodiGarda

1

45

321. ? 5b2. Lurky 6a+3. ? 5c

4. ? 5b5. Storch 6a

10.2. Belvedere

N 45 52.829EO 10 53.227

8 m.Southwest


Take me to 10.1.


31/77

L agodiGarda

12

13

Nago

Torbole

11

10

11

10

P

P1

10

4, 5,6, 7

93

11to 19

from left to right

2

4

7

6

5

1. Marmitta catalittica 6c, 5c 10. Un attimo 6a+2. I due giganti 6a, 5c 11. Ulisse 6a3. Piove governo 6b+, 5c 12. ? 4c4. ? 6b 13. ? 4c

5. Orecchietta 6a+ 14. ? 4c6. A tutta birra 7a 15. ? 4c7. Faro freak 6c 16. ? 4c8. Dora 5c, 5c 17. ? 4c9. Galattica 6b 18. Il ciclope 5c

19. ? 6a+

9

11. Marmitte dei Giganti

25 m. Multi pitch 60 m.Southeast



Drive from Arco in the direction of Nago.In the T-junction (Arco, Nago, Torbole),turn right in the direction of Torbole. After200 metres, after a hairpin, you will find abig car park on your right. Walk down theroad 40 metres and turn right, on to a tracksignposted Marmite del Gigante. When youreach a cross, take right to reach the bigpothole, take left and walk down to abeautiful meadow where you will find therest of the routes.

The bar at the opposite side of the roadfrom the car park has nice sandwiches.


32/77

Lago diGarda

12

13

Nago

Torbole

11

10

P

P

P

DirectionArco



Drive from Arco to Nago. In the T-junction(Arco, Torbole, Mori), drive straight overthe main road and into the village Nago.turn left and soon you pass a car park.Turn right and find your way through thevillage.Look out for a signpost, Strada del monteBaldo. Depending on wich part you wantto go to, drive to the car park on the southside of the crag and park on a big car parkby a Ranch or drive. Alternative, drive onthe road signposted chiesetta alpini Casina

and park by the road in a hairpin whereyou see the upper part of this magnificentcrag. In both cases, take the track about100 metres to reach the crag.This is one of the crags in the area thatoffers very good climbing.

Keymap, Approach, Nago

N 45 52.243 (Car Park South)EO 10 53.585


33/77

1

6 7 9

10

4

5 8

161514

3

20191817 21

2

2322

11 1312

2524

1. ? ? 16. Ramba 6a2. ? ? 17. Phantom 6b+3. ? ? 18. Chiedi a Beppo 6b

4. ? ? 19. Panorama 6b+5. ? ? 20. Kira 6c6. Vogue 6a 21. Il panettiere 6c+7. Nuvola rossa 6a 22. Good Morning 7c+8. Giochi dombra 5c 23. Mario la sa 7b9. Take it easy 5c 24. Ruggero lo perfido 6a+10. ? ? 25. Fuori orario 6c11. ? ?12. ? ?13. ? ?14. ? ?

15. Il calabrone 5bLago d

iGarda

12.1. Nago

25 m.South


Take me to12.2./12.3./12.4./12.5./12.6./12.7./12.8.


34/77

1

4

5

3

2

1

4

32

6

TOPOS 12.1.

1. Flash 7c2. ? 8c3. ? 7a+4. Via Nicole ?5. Buon anno 5b6. Un bar per Rita 5c

LagodiG

arda

12.2. Nago

15 m.North, East


Take me to12.1./12.3./ 12.4./ 12.5./12.6./ 12.7./ 12.8.


35/77

1. Bali 6a 10. Il Capriccio 7c2. Visigoti 6a 11. Supermario 7b+3. Unni 4c 12. Gobazio 6a+4. Zuppa zuppa 3, 6a 13. La mandria 6a5. Parampampoli 3, 6b 14. Mario Polenta 6a6. Alcor 5b 15. Lillila 6a+7. Winkinbongo 5b8. Asd 5c9. Enzo Molinari 5c

1

67

9

10

4

5

8

15

14

3

2

11

1213

L agodiGarda

12.3. Nago



Take me to 12.1./ 12.2./12.4./12.5./12.6./12.7./12.8.


36/77

1

6

7

9

10

4

5

8 14

2, 3

11

12

13

16

15

17

3

1. la placca 5c, 6a+ 10. Esuli lontani 7a

2. Cato-Zul 6b+ 11. La nonna va 6c+3. Lo sconosciuto 6b+ 12. Tasmania 7a4. Peach-Pitt 6c 13. Crisalide 6b+5. Torpedo 7a+ 14. ? ?6. Mammalucco 7a 15. Facile 4c7. Genesi 7a 16. Asdo da Melch 7c8. ? 6b+ 17. Gris 7a+9. Astuzio 6b+

L agodiGarda

12.4. Nago



Take me to12.1./12.2./12.3./ 12.5./ 12.6./12.7./12.8.


37/77

1, 2 56

8, 93 4 7

1413

15

10

1112

1716

9

2

1. Lucacappiotti 7b+2. Dago 7b+3. Eh Merch 7b4. Culo dritto 7b5. Uligane Dangereux 7a+6. Passeggeri del vento 7b+7. Lunatica 7b8. Boulevard 7c9. Per sempre Mary 7b+10. I soliti Ignoti 7a11. Sbargek 6b+12. lupo Alberto 6c+, 7a+13. Titanic 7a+14. Iceberg 7a+15. Gandalf 6c

16. Esodo 6b17. Cohelet 6b+18. Swami il bullo 5c19. Nillo il bello 5c

19

18

Lago diGarda

12.5. Nago



Take me to12.1./12.2./12.3./12.4./12.6./12.7./12.8.


38/77

1

56

8

34

7

14

15

10

1716

9

2

1312

11 10. Ragioner Filini 5c11. Mega Direttore 5c

12. Alvarez 6b+13. Aquilante 6b1. Troppo buoni con le donne 5b 14. Il generale 6c2. Nevermore 6c+ 15. Firminik 6a+3. Spleen 6b 16. Il fachiro 6b+4. Equinox 6a 17. Patti Sassi 5b5. gerico 6a6. Nightfly 5c7. Super Tramp 5c8. Good buy stranger 6a9. Cif 5b

Lago diGarda

12.6. Nago

20 m.South


Take me to12.1./12.2./ 12.3./12.4./12.5./12.7./12.8.


39/77

1

5

6

3 4

7

211

1098

1. King Lear 7a 7. Agave 7b2. Cassio 6c+ 8. Elena 6b+3. Lago 6c 9. Gonnerilla 7a4. Rosencrantz 7a+ 10. Regana 6b5. Guildenstern 6b+ 11. Cordelia 6a6. Medea 6a+

L agodiGarda

12.7. Nago

30 m.South


Take me to12.1./12.2./12.3./12.4./12.5./12.6./12.8.

12 8 N T k t 12 1 / 12 2 / 12 3 / 12 4 / 12 5 / 12 6 / 12 7


40/77

1

5

6

3

4

7

2

15

10,11

981413

12

1716

1. Albatros 7a 7. Odyssey 7b+ 13. Mac Becht 7c2. Little crack 5c 8. Nausica 7b 14. Marino 4b3. franz und Andrea 7a 9. Prometeus 7a+, 7a 15. Ugo il Paciugo 4b4. Das Glassperlenspiegel 6c 10. La tana dei ciclopi 7a+ 16. Pio albergo 6c5. Patience dans lazur 6c+ 11. Lotus 7b+, 8a 17. C qualcosa 6a+6. Cyclops 7a 12. Heracles 7c, 7c+

11

LagodiGarda

12.8. Nago

N 45 51.957EO 10 53.849



Take me to 12.1./12.2./12.3./12.4./12.5./ 12.6./12.7.

13 1 P S Gi i T k t 13 2 / 13 3


41/77

LagodiGarda

12

13

Nago

Torbole

11

10Direction

Arco

PP

Pic nicarea

Hotel

DirectionMori

15 4 3 2

6

1211

10

98

7

13.2.

13.3.

very easy

easy

difficult

very difficult

extremely difficult

1. Super Nova 5c2. Saphir 5c3. Bochiada 6c+4. Hot dream 5c5. Fil de fer 6c6. E.T. 5c7. Nomesis 6b+8. Sogni di robot 6b+9. Hari sheldon 6a10. Io noi Gaia 6a+11. Il mule 4c12. Seconda 5c

13.1. Passo S. GiovanniKeymap, boulder


Take me to 13.2./13.3.


Drive from Arco to Nago. Turn left in theT-junction in the direction of Mori and

Roverto. When you reach Passo S.Giovanni you will find a car park in front ofthe Hotel and also one at the opposite sideof the road.

About 50 metres to the right from the Hotela cycle and walk road leads down in thevalley. Follow that and then turn left on atrack to reach this area.This is a perfect place for families, and youwill find more than 100 boulder problemsand rock climbing in a beautiful surrondings.

13 2 Passo S Giovanni Take me to 13 1 / 13 3


42/77

L agodiGarda

1 53 42

1. Venezia ?2. Macho man ?3. Moonraket ?4. Fafifurni 8a5. Bol de Ri 7b

13.2. Passo S. Giovanni

13 m.North


Take me to13.1./13.3.

13 3 Passo S Giovanni Take me to 13 1 / 13 2


43/77

Lago diGarda

1

5

3 42

109876 11

1. Nuovi eroi 6c2. S.D.A.P. 7a+

3. T.N.T. 7a, 7a4. Sniff-sniff 7b+5. Vampiria 7a6. Doppio malto 6c7. Lucky Strucca 6c+8. Boys dont cry 6c9. Controll 6b10. Bucefalomania 6a+11. Cri cri 6a+

13.3 Passo S. Giovanni

25 m.South


Take me to 13.1./13.2.

14 1 Besagno


44/77

13. Urla infinite 6c14. Gabrys caffe 7a+15. ? ?

1. I paesani 5c 16. ? ?

2. I frichettoni 6a+ 17. Spatacash 6c+3. Ghost 7a+ 18. Tango e cash 5c4. Engi 7a+ 19. Lasciami volare 6a+5. Luigia 6b+ 20. Il disguido 7a6. francesca 6b 21. Manaslu 6b7. ? ? 22. ? ?8. Carlo non farlo 6b+ 23. ? ?9. Eroica 6b+ 24. Topo 5b10. La suocera 7a+ 25. Gigio 4c11. Philip Lorris 7b+

12. Sar quel che 6b+

14

Mori

Besagno

Tierno

15

L agodiGarda

DirectionCastione

1

53 42

9,10

876

11

19181716151413

12

20

10

21

2524

2322

14.1. Besagno

35 m.Northwest



Drive from Arco to Mori. In the village, turn rightin the direction of Besagno. Pass Besagno andpark by the side of the road 70 metres afteryou have passed the cross where a road turnsright to Castione.Take the track that leads into the wood wherea signpost declare that climbers climb without

any responsibilities for the land owner.To the right you will find 14.2.

Take me to 14.2.

14 2 Besagno


45/77

Lago diGarda

1

5

3

42

6

1. Tempi lontani 6b2. Diretta allinfinito 6b+3. The callieer 6b4. Cerro Pipel 5c5. Senza Sugo 6b6. Ocio al travers 6a+7. Var 5c

7

14.2. Besagno

30 m.Northwest


Take me to 14.1.

15. Mori


46/77

Mori

15

Lago diGarda

DirectionArco

DirectionTierno

P

P

Boulderarea

1 53

42

987

6

11

18

16,

171514131210

17

1. Linsensibile 7b+ 10. Poche idee 6c+2. Max-minimum 7b+ 11. Scorpio 6b+3. Larte delle 7a+ 12. Enigma 6a+4. Lignoranza 6c 13. Pippo che 7a+5. Menti e molecole 7b+ 14. Mani di fata 7a6. Atto di forza 7c 15. Kibbutz 6b7. Il non senso 6b 16. Tira buta 6c+8. Overdose 6c+ 17. African 7a9. Parny dura 6b 18. Meteora 7b

25 m.South



Drive from Arco in the direction ofMori. You will reach this two small

crags if you take left in the directionof the old part of Mori.The climbing isnt the best and youcould put off this crag if you arevisiting Arco for a short period.From friends we have informationabout a very nice boulder areanorth of Santuario di Monte Albano,marked on the map.

16.1. Spiaggia delle Lucertole


47/77

11

Nago

16

Torbole

L agodiGarda

10

12

16.1.

16.2.

P1 53 42

987

11

15

14

1210

613

16

18

17

1. Daffy-Daffy 6a+ 11. Albatros 6b, 7c2. Ventofobia 6b 12. Luisa violenta 6b+, 5a, 7a3. ? 7a 13. Tom tom club 6b, 7b4. Funky ma chic 7b 14. Sentierissimo 7a5. Bepi nero 7a 15. La signora degli appigli 7c6. Piccola dose 7a+ 16. Non seguitemi 7b7. Honky-Tonky 6b+ 17. Laury 7a8. Cicala clack 7c 18. ? 6c9. Peyote al rabarbaro 7c 19. Tom e jerry 7c

10. Pat end patachon 6b+

19

gg




Drive from Arco in the direction of Nago. In theT-junction, turn right in the direction of Torbole,continue trough the village in the direction of

Malcesine. After about 2 km you will pass thesecond tunnel. Park at a car park just as youleave the tunnel. By the sea side is Spiaggiadelle Lucertole. To reach Corna di Bo, walkback trough the tunnel and turn left as you leaveit.Nice climbing by the sea.

Take me to 16.2.

16.2. Punta Corno di Bo


48/77

LagodiGarda

15

3

42

1. Pritt 4b, 4b2. Kuki 4c, 4c3. ? ?

4. Tony il telefonista 3a, 5a, 5a, 3a5. Cesira 3a, 5c6. Norex 5a, 5a, 4a

6

Multi pitch, 50 to 110 m.West


Take me to 16.1.

17.1. Transatlantico Take me to 17.2./17.3./17.4./17.5.How to find the crag:


49/77

Lago diGarda

17Pietramurata

Lago di Cavedine

18

P

17.1.

17.2.

17.3.

17.4.

1 53 42987

11

16

1412106

15

1. Arbeit macht frei 6c 10. Il delta di Venere 6b+, 6b, 6c2. Ultima tule 7a+ 6b, 6b+3. Aquila della notte 6b 11. Volo felice 7b+, 6b, 7b+4. Al tonno 7b 12. La fattoria degli animali 6c, 6b5. Preludio 7a+ 7a, 6c6. Potiomkin 7a 13. Land Art 7a, 7c7. Fruit e vegetabilt 7a, 6b, 3a 7b, 7b

7a, 6c, 6b 14. Controvento 7c, 7c+, 7a+8. Perigeo 6c 15. Quarto potere 6b+, 6c9. Mururoa 6b, 6b, 7b 16. Panghea 6b, 6a+

7a, 6b

13

17.5.

30 m. Multi pitch, 120 m.East



Drive from Arco in the direction of Sarche. A couple of hundredmetres after you have reached Pietramurata you will see a baron your left, Snack Bar New Entry. Park at the big car parkoutside the bar. From the car park you can see and locate the

crags. Follow a small track from the car park, after about 100metres you will meet a new track, follow that 100 metres to theleft and then turn right just where a stone is marked 426 on asmall track if you are going to visit 17.3., 17.4. or 17.5. Continuestraight forward for 17.1. and 17.2.

17.2.1. Camerete Take me to17.1./17.3./17.4./17.5.


50/77

LagodiGarda

1 53

42

9

87

6

11

181615141310

17

12

2423222120

19

25

1. Initiator 6a 10. Benny 6a 19. ? 7c+2. La Tambata 6b+ 11. Austria 5c 20. Pin e Puk 8a3. Spazio 1999 6c 12. Shhit 7c+ 21. El Nino 7c4. Nutella 6b+ 13. Una Manzana 7c+ 22. Mani di Fata 7a5. Tutti i giorni 6c+ 14. La Bamba 7c+ 23. Rampados 7b6. Il topo 7a 15. La Classica 7c 24. Scorpion 7a7. Ficcanaso 6a 16. Ikebana 8a 25. Ocio che slimpego 7b8. Tantum 7a+ 17. Libia 7c+9. Jack 6c 18. Dx Sx 7c

30 m.Southeast

Take me to 17.2.2.


17.2.2. Camerete Take me to17.1./17.3./17.4./17.5.


51/77

LagodiGarda

1

5

3 42

9876 1110

1. La Rivincita ?2. Sogno ?3. Tutti Pazzi ?4. Tornatene ?5. Ovviamente 6b+6. Diedricamente 6b7. ? ?8. Nido di Falco 5c, 6a+, 6b, 6a

9. Sorella Luna 7a10. Fratello Sole 7b11. Doveri 7a+

30 m. One Multi pitch 100 m.Southeast

Take me to 17.2.1.


17.3. Muro di Chitarra Take me to17.1./17.2./17.4./17.5.


52/77

Lago diGarda

1

5

3

4

2

98

7

6

111013

12

1. Prete lesso 7b+2. ? ?3. ? ?4. ? 7c

5. ? ?6. ? 7c7. ? ?8. ? 7b9. ? 7a+10. ? 7c11. ? 7b12. ? 7c+13. ? 6b

15 m.Northeast, East


17.4. Baule Take me to17.1./17.2./17.3./ 17.5.


53/77

L agodiGarda

1

54

2, 3

3

76

1. ? ?2. ? 7a+3. ? 7b+4. ? 7a5. ? 7a+6. ? 7b+7. Gratta e vinci 7b

N 46 01.341EO 10 55.975

25 m.Southeast


17.5. Giardini di nato Take me to17.1./ 17.2./17.3./17.4.


54/77

Lago diGarda

9 10

10. ? ?11. Non seici 7b12. Il celvino 7b13. Scontrino 6a14. La sfesura 5c15. Giro daria ?

16. Gipelosa 5c1. Gerry 6a 17. Mr. Castagna 6c+2. Struccaluca 6b 18. Minicuz e .. 6b+3. Mammaluca 6c 19. Il giardino di ... 6a+4. Don Pedro 7a 20. Killer Sisters 6b+5. Polverom 7b 21. Sgeve dautore 7a+6. Craxi crack 6b 22. Ehi fratello 7b7. Mr. Obaloba 7a 23. B.B. 7b8. Zio e la Tibia 6c+ 24. Lo slancio 7b9. Bertoli 7b+ 25. Diesel 6b

15

3

42

87

6

11

1816

15

14

13 17

12

2221

20

19

23

25

24

25 m.East


18.1. Sisyphos Take me to 18.2. How to find the crag:

Drive from Arco in the direction of Sarche. Park on a small road


55/77

LagodiGarda

9 10

1

5

3

4

2

876

17Pietramurata

Lago di Cavedine

18

P

16151413

2120191817

1112

1. Solero 6a+ 12. ? ?2. Cookie Snack 6b 13. Bikini 7b3. Ice tea 6b+ 14. Blob 7b+

4. Liuk 6b+ 15. Winner 7b5. Calippo 6a 16. Croccante 5c6. Freddolone 6b+ 17. Coppa del nonno 7a7. Cremino 6b 18. Eldorado 6c8. Camillino 6b+ 19. Il profeta 7b+9. Cornetto 6b+ 20. Timoty Leary 7b10. Magnum 7a 21. Boom 7a11. Cucciolone 7b 22. Estremi rimedi 6c+

N 46 01.788 (car park)EO 10 56.641

25 m.East


that turns left at the outskirts of Pietramurata in a industy block.The small road is located 500 metres before the bridge. Walkto the house placed just before the bridge and follow the smallroad that turns in on the left side of the house (straight forward

though). You will pass an old industy, C. MUSSI, and 500metres after you have passed the house you will find a trackto the left. Follow that to reach the crag.

18.2. Sisyphos

25

Take me to 18.1.


56/77

LagodiGarda

910

1 53, 42

876

161514

13

1711

12

3

See route 21,18.1.

18

1. Goo 7b 10. Maestro tappo 7a2. Corriera barallina 7b+ 11. Vita da corridoio 6c+3. Ogni limite ha una pazienza 6c+ 12. Spavaldo 6b+4. Lampo di fulmine 6b+ 13. Piume di struzzo 6a5. Uccidi i tuoi idoli 7c 14. Vaselina 6a6. By Pass 7b 15. Il terzo sesso 6b7. Ci Isoffio 7a+ 16. La commedia umana 6c+8. Severance 7a 17. Tu mi pungi 5c9. Non mi conta il torno 7a+ 18. Il ruggito del leone 7a

25 m.East


Keymap, Approach, San Siro


57/77

L agodiGarda

17P

P

18

19

20

Pietramurata

Sarche

Lasino

Stravino

Cavedine

Lago

diCavedine



Drive from Dro to Lasino. In Lasino, turn left on one of the smallroads in the direction of Pergolese, Sarche and the ChapelSan Siro. In the second hairpin after you have passed theChapel you will find a big car park.Walk down some steps to find the right track, turn right in theT-junction and after 150 metres you will reach the right part ofSan Siro crag.You can also continue with the car to a car park further down,easy to find because of a big notice board covering tracks andclimbing in the area.

A superb crag, a lot of nice climbing and easy access also forfamilies.

19.1. San Siro

N 46 01 682

Take me to 19.2./19.3.


58/77

9 10

1

532

87

6

16151413 1711

12

18

4

21

2019

24

2322

1. Chaira ma indecisa 7a+ 13. Quivi il tempo 7b2. ? ? 14. ? ?

3. Charlot 7b+ 15. Atlantic city 7c+4. Luisiana 7b 16. ? 7b+5. ? 6a 17. Regan boia 6b+6. Aleph 6a 18. ? ?7. Scansati 7a+ 19. Haiku ?8. Salay 7a+ 20. Zagor 7c9. Jeron 7b 21. Iatifah 7b10. E inutile sognare 8a 22. Vendetta 7b+11. Miss Lolita 7b+ 23. ? ?12. Melarinfanfunfinfla 8a+ 24. Mafia bianca 7a

Lago diGarda

N 46 01.682EO 10 58.198

25 m.South


19.2. San Siro

30 m.

Take me to 19.1./19.3.


59/77

101

5

32

876

1615

14

13

17

1112

18

4

2019

9

232221

1. La monella 6c+ 13. Magic Biest 5c

2. Meninblak 8a 14. Mir 7b+3. Memboraccio 6b 15. Lessenziale 8a+4. Blow 7b+ 16. Tempesta nel deserto 8a5. Xanadu 8a+ 17. ? ?6. Eletric Budda 8a 18. ? ?7. Piani molteplici 7c 19. Aria 6c8. Letreno presente 7b 20. ? ?9. Il vergine 7a+ 21. Tuxedo 6a10. Nuvole 7a 22. Gedeone 5c11. Dedi 6c 23. The kid 5a

12. Bush del cul 6a+

Lago diGarda

South


19.3. San Siro

30 m. Multi pitch up to 65 m.

Take me to19.1./19.2.


60/77

10

1

5

32

876

1615

17

49 131211

14

1. Pic-Nic 6b+ 13. Rock Story 6b+, 6a, 6b

2. Nuovi giorni 6b 14. Una foolta 6a3. Il risveglio degli eroi 6b 15. Castaglia 6a4. Houdini 6c+ 16. Magico Alberman 6b+5. Nazka 7b+ 17. Thyco B. 6b6. Sederini Parlanti 7b 18. Fiesta 7a7. Fred fallo 7a+ 19. W Messico 6c8. Zio ulcera 7c 20. Il fagiano 6a+9. Mad professor 7b+10. Flipper 6c+, 6a+11. Alexander Plaz 7b, 6a12. Zizomat 6b+, 6b+, 6a+

20

19

18

L agodiGarda

p pSouth


20. Cavedine

N 45 59.913 (car park)


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Lago diGarda

17

18

19

20

Pietramurata

Sarche

Lasino

Stravino

Cavedine

LagodiCavedine

P

10

1 532

8

7

6

184 9 1611

232221

26

2524

1920

15

17

12 1413

1. Latte Pi ? 14. Tot dArabia 7b2. Sbarbie e Prepuzio 6c 15. Ingenue Utopie 6c3. Popolo bue 6c+ 16. Placebo 6c+4. Oro nero 6c 17. Polvere 7b5. Oib 6b+ 18. Misery 7b6. Oib plus 7c 19. Ganja 7b7. Alta tensione 6a+ 20. Magma 6c8. Alta tensione plus 7b+ 21. Sesso e nutella 6b+9. Gioia Rivoluzione 7a+ 22. Vox Populi 7a

10. Gioia Rivoluzione plus 7c 23. Diaframma 6c+11. Alibi 7a 24. ? ?12. Orgasmatic 7b+ 25. ? ?13. Palpito tenue 7b+ 26. ? ?

N 45 59.913 (car park)EO 10 57.624

25 m.West



Drive from Trebi in the direction of Cavadine.With a nice view over the lake this crag offersome nice routes.Park at the right side of the road on a big laybay. Continue about 300 metres and turn right

just after a stone wall. It could be hard to see atrack but you will see the crag behind the woodfrom the road.

Keymap, Approach, Marciaga


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Lago diGarda

Lagodi Garda

Garda

Costermano

Marciaga

Torri

DirectionArco

P

P

Madonna delSoccorso

Golfarea

Golfarea

DirectionAlbisano,Garda

DirectionAffi,Castion

Marciaga


Drive from Arco in the direction of Garda. Garda is a touristicvillage with a lot of shopping, restaurants and bars. The wholearea is crowded during the spring, summer and autumn.If you are flying from Milano it is a good crag to drive to at thelast day so that the highroad aint to far away.This area offers a lot of easy climbing on slab or vertical crag.Drive from Garda to Marciaga, continue and turn right in theT-junction. Park at the car park near the Madonna del Soccorsoand walk to the crag (10-15 minutes).


21.1. Marciaga

Zirichittalgia sector

Take me to21.2./21.3./21.4./21.5./21.6.


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1. Gnimo 5a2. Zirichiltagghia 5a3. Bamboline 6a4. Hoherman spitze 5a5. Police verde 5b6. Traccanamenti 6a+7. Aspettando Lul 5a8. Cactus 6a9. Scambiamoci le donne 6a+10. Super Ciuk 6b+11. Shalon 4b

1

5

6

3

4

7

2

10

9

8

11

Lago diGarda

25 m.South


21.2. Marciaga

Graspia sector

Take me to21.1./21.3./21.4./21.5./21.6.


64/77

1

5 63 4 72109

811

18

151413

12

2019

17

16

1. Bombaso 3c 12. Graspia 4c2. Petit pilier 4c 13. Che Stress 5c3. Angevenesi 4c 14. La pulce nellorecchio 5c4. Quelli del I C 3c 15. Gufo Triste 5b5. Sognando California 5b 16. Bolle di sapone 7b6. Bacche rosse 4b 17. Zucca mancante 5b7. Old love 4b 18. Ricordi 5a8. Tempesta 4c 19. Arbre magique 6a9. Gavina 3a 20. Il signor Bla Bla 6a+10. Ciao Efrem 4b11. Whisky 5b

L agodiGarda



21.3. Marciaga

Negus sector

Take me to21.1./21.2./21.4./21.5./21.6.


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1

5,63

4

7

2

8 11,12 151413

17

16

2120

19

18

6

109

12

1. Colori 6a 12. Mr. Verde 5b

2. Vaccadi 6c 13. Negus 4c3. Vecchia luganega ? 14. Niet Pezolsky 4c4. Biko 6a+ 15. Apparenza 5b5. Sfinission 5b 16. Tappi e rattoppi 5c+6. Il gobbo 6a 17. Incomprensioni 6a7. Pilastro giallo 6b+ 18. Puzza di Pesce 6b8. Mani di Fata 7a+ 19. Non Sparate sui Free 5a9. Rombo ? 20. Napo Orso Capo 6a10. W La Mamma ? 21. Do not disturb 6a11. Oasi 5a

LagodiGarda

30 m.South


21.4. Marciaga

Aerofagia sector

Take me to21.1./21.2./21.3./21.5./21.6.


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1. Lilliput 7a2. Piastine gialle 4b 14. Tanto per fare 6a

3. Cocco di Mamma 6a+ 15. Saluto al sole 5c4. Arlecchina 5b 16. La tana de rospo 5b5. Areofagia 6a+ 17. Babbo Natale 5c 26. Febbre gialla 6a+6. Miciona bella 7a+ 18. Crumiri Biondi 4c 27. Approccio lassativo 6b+7. Stato interessante 6c+ 19. Gabri 6c 28. ? ?8. Orizzonti fotografici 4a 20. Pollicino 5b 29. Di tutto un p 5a9. Lui e Cinzia 3a, 4b 21. ? ? 30. W le donne 4b10. Palestrina 4a 22. Che Bellezza 7a 31. Va Ben 5a11. Prima della nascita 4c 23. Bella Tonda 6c+ 32. Via Vai 4b12. Guai in vista 6a+ 24. I Veci Rimba 6a13. Magic moment 6a+ 25. Terry Violenta 6b+

1

53 4

7211

14

13

17

2019

6

1012

24,25,26

27,28

15

16188 9

30

3231

2122 23

28

24 25

26

29

LagodiGarda



21.5. Marciaga

Cavallino rosso sector

Take me to21.1./21.2./21.3./21.4./21.6.


67/77

1

5

3

4

7

2

11

1413

610

12

8

92120

1918

171615

1. Ginevra 4a 12. Pizzamiglio 4b

2. Annalisa 4b 13. Glasnost 5a3. Fata turchina 4c 14. Che Pica 5c4. Cavallo rosso 4b 15. Lupo Rolandino 6a+5. Il futuro ha 4c 16. Boulder problem 7a+6. Carolina 4c 17. Anchorage 6b7. Frenesia 5c 18. Barbara B. 5a8. Excalibur 6a 19. A-frodite 5b9. Nonna Belarda 6a+ 20. Lorelei 4a10. Bob Rock 4a 21. Marciagantropia 5b11. Willy 4a

Lago diGarda

25 m.South


21.6. Marciaga

Per Laura sector

Take me to21.1./21.2./21.3./21.4./21.5.


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1. Perongi 4a2. Nuvola Bianci 4b

3. La Beffa del destino 5c4. Nero su bianco 6a5. Zio Billy 4a6. Tempo Duri 5a7. Paturnie 4b8. Orlando furioso 4b9. Criminal 4a10. Barbagianni 4b11. Gekki 4b12. Dedicata a Laura 4c

1

5

34

7

2

6

10

8

9

12

11

Lago diGarda

25 m.South


Keymap, Approach, Stallavena


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L agodiGarda

Lago di Garda

Verona

DirectionMilano

DirectionVenezia

DirectionTrento

Stallavena

Direction

BoscoChiesanuova

Stallavena

ChiesaAlcenago


Drive from Stallavena in the direction of Alcenago, Vigo. After about 1 km, in the T-junction, continue trough the hairpin in the direction of the Church. Park at the car parkoutside the cementery. Walk back to the first hairpin and continue straight forward onthe track by the power line. Walk down between the crags, turn right if you are goingto climb any of the routes 1 to 50, to the left for the rest.

A nice crag, a lot of easy climbing. During weekends, when Arco is crowded, a trip toStallvena could be an opportunity to experience a less touristic part of the area.


22.1. Stallavena

25 m.East

Take me to22.2./22.3./22.4./22.5./22.6./22.7./22.8.


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1 32

L agodiGarda

1. La prima 3+2. Spigoletto 3+3. Spigoletto di DX. 4-


22.2. Stallavena

30 m.East

Take me to22.1./22.3./22.4./22.5./22.6./22.7./22.8.


71/77

L agodiGarda

1. Ripper 5a 10. Lele 4-2. Via da Turri 6b 11. Sajanora extra 5a

3. Snackaplak 5a 12. Toffa Pungente 5b4. Pollicino 4+ 13. Panciolite 5b5. Indiani Metropolitan 5a 14. Non picchiatemi 6a6. Attenti a quei due 5b 15. Zanzi banzi 5c7. Broppa 6a8. Ada 49. Sperone 4-

1

76543

212111098

141315


22.3. Stallavena

30 m.East

Take me to22.1./22.2./22.4./22.5./22.6./22.7./ 22.8.


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L agodiGarda

1

765

432

121110

98

1413 151817

16

1. Corna e bicorna 5b 10. Spigolo Giallo 5b2. Mamy 5b 11. Felipe se Sudas 6a3. Tira e tasi 5c 12. Placca fredda 6a4. Mavvas 6a 13. Gran diedro 5a5.Dito del Diavolo 5c 14. Riflessi di settembre 5c6. Fiaba del mare 6a+ 15. My friend Socky 6b+7. Verona 6a 16. Placca della famiglia Felice 6b8. Perlotto ? 17. Via del Ciba 5c9. Gialla ? 18. Dulfer 5b


22.4. Stallavena

25 m.East

Take me to22.1./22.2./22.3./22.5./22.6./22.7./22.8.


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LagodiGarda

1765432 12111098 1413 15 16

19

1817

1. Dulfer 5b2. Alcazar 5c3. Anatomic 6a+4. Riccioli doro 5b5. Orzowall 5c6. Ferratina 5c7. Diamanti di Sara 5c8. Ciabatta pazza 5c9. Gianni e fafifurni 6a10. Obliqua 5a11. Mandrillomaniaque 5c12. Mamas gang 6a13. Rovereto 6a14. Messaggeri del teschio 6c+15. Gran strapiombo 6c16. Apprendisa stregone 6b17. Primi passi 6a+18. Rien ne va plus 6c+19. LSD 6a


22.5. Stallavena

30 m.East

Take me to22.1./22.2./22.3./22.4./22.6./ 22.7./ 22.8.


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Lago diGarda

1

54

3

2 1. Diedrino alto 3+2. Diedrino 4-3. Placca peuterey 5c4. Placca Arf 5c5. Uagamma 4


22.6. Stallavena

35 m.East

Take me to22.1./22.2./22.3./22.4./22.5./ 22.7./22.8.


75/77

LagodiGarda

1

7

4,5,632

119,10

1. Sette nani 5c 7. Venezia 5b2. Profumo di provenza 5c 8. ? 4+3. Delise Brut 6a+ 9. Pulpito 4+4. Alce nero 5c 10. Fessurone 5c5. Peruviana 4- 11. Arramak 6a6. Alcenago 5c

8

6


22.7. Stallavena

50 m.East

Take me to22.1./22.2./22.3./22.4./22.5./22.6./22.8.


76/77

Lago diGarda

1

7

3210986

4 5

1. Placca sgobbi 5b2. Stella 4+3. Longa 44. Attaco 4+5. Quando il cielo non pi blu 5a6. Meditate gente 5b7. Bufera 5b8. Bufera variant 5b9. Le voyage des Beppos 5c

10. Via degli alpini 5b


22.8. Stallavena

50 m.East

Take me to22.1./22.2./22.3./22.4./22.5./ 22.6./22.7.


77/77

L agodiGarda

8. Signori degli inganni 6b+9. Albero 5b

10. Via delle Grole 6b+1. Mickey Mouse 5c 11. Firenze 5/A22. Cest plus facile 6b+ 12. Diedro Giallo 5c3. Nonno zomp 6c 13. Danielona e belzeb 6a4. Brazil 6a 14. Squaqquaci 5b5. Nasok 5c 15. Isapepp 5b6. Sgriffalda Sgraffame 6a+ 16. Cynder track 5b7. SuperBilly 5c 17. Chiodi neri 5a

1 732

10

9864 5

17

16

15

1413

1211


Arco Climbing Guide

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