Books by Author

Designer Birdhouses 20 Upscale Homes for Sophisticated Birds (2008)

Architectural Birdhouses

Richard T. Banks

If you can build a box, you can build a Great Birdhouse

Text, Photography, Illustrations, Book and Cover Design © 2012Richard T. Banks

All rights reserved The written instructions, photographs, designs, patterns, and projectsin this book are intended for the personal use of the reader and maybe reproduced for that purpose only. Any other use, especiallycommercial use, is forbidden under law without written permission ofthe copyright holder. Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in thisbook is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools, andindividual skills, the author and publisher cannot be responsible forany injuries, losses, and other damages that may result from the use ofthe information in this book. If you have any questions or comments about this book please contact:Richard T. Banks: rtbarch@centurylink.net. The designs illustrated in this book were made with power tools.Should you attempt to duplicate any of the techniques described youare encouraged to wear protective eyeglasses and take all necessarysafety precautions. We cannot accept liability for any damage orinjury the reader might incur.

Architectural EditionsPinehurst, North Carolina

Dedication

For my wife Marilyn, for her endurance, compassion, and patiencewhen all she could see was the back of my head.

Building a Birdhouse

Start with a box…add some enhancements…a dab of paint

…and you have a Beautiful Birdhouse!

Contents Introduction 91 Getting Started 122 Building the Basic Box 253 Beyond the Basic Box 394 The Projects 50

Pieces and Features 52Features and Patterns 56Features and Stripes 60Mix and Match 64Lattice House 68Lattice and Brackets 72Board and Batten Shingle House 76Your Choice 82Roosting Box 86Sticks and Blocks 92Paddle House 96Recycled Triangles 100Sponge and Stencil 104Pinstripes 108Three in One 112The Temple 118Swing Low, Swing Softly 124Acorn House 128Keyhole House 132Fish or Fowl 136

5 After You Build It 1406 Display 153Author's Biography 161Metric Equivalents 163

Introduction I am not a bird expert – I leave that to the ornithologists. I am an architect with a fondness for birdsand a love for woodworking. Considering my background, it is not much of a stretch to go frombuilding for people to building for birds. However, I am getting ahead of my story and to tell youhow it all began, I have to go back several years to a particular morning just before Christmas.Each year I make my wife a gift for Christmas and one for her birthday in January. With the twoevents so close together, it is a challenge to come up with new ideas each year. So there I was, aweek before Christmas without a clue as to what to make. One morning, while mindlessly gazingout the window at our garden, the idea hit me - “Why not a birdhouse?”

It seemed like the perfect gift. My wife is an avid gardener who loves to "play in the dirt", andwhat better way to show my appreciation than with a gift for her garden. She loved the new birdhouse, and so the story goes, the rest is history. Well, not quite . As her garden grew, so did thenumber of birdhouses. Before I knew it, I was asked to make more for my “adoring public”. Nowthe original houses were figments of my imagination; once made, difficult to duplicate. To keep upwith the unexpected demand, I had to find a way to simplify my design and building process, whilecreating nesting boxes that were attractive and well constructed. To that end, I came up with the concept of the basic box – a concept we will explore throughoutthis book. By varying this theme and adding simple embellishments, I was able to create a numberof distinctive designs that I could readily duplicate. The idea worked out so well that it led me inanother direction. With the help of my eldest son, a mom and pop commercial website businesswas born, featuring several nesting box editions to suit a variety of tastes.www.architecturaleditions.com As stories go, one chapter leads to another. In 2008, I wrote and illustrated a very successfulbirdhouse book, Designer Birdhouses: 20 upscale Homes for Sophisticated Birds, published bya well respected "How To" book publisher. Although the book was critically acclaimed for itsunique designs, detailed instructions, and informative photography, it is now out of print andconsidered a collectible. You still might find a copy on Amazon or some used book websites,however you may find price prohibitive. But, that's not the end of the story. After receiving manyemails, letters, and phone calls from birdhouse building enthusiasts inquiring whether the bookwould be reprinted, I decided to self-publish this current and expanded edition. This editioncontains much of the information presented in the original book with added sections on what to do

after you build your birdhouse and considerations for indoor and outdoor display. In addition, Ihave simplified the how-to instructions, allowing the reader to concentrate on the graphicillustrations. You know the theory – a picture says a thousand words. I have also de-emphasizedthe use of heavy-duty power tools so the novice builder will not be intimidated, and to this end, Iexplain how to do many tasks with just hand tools. Through the process of building birdhouses and writing about them, I learned more about birds andtheir quest for survival. However, I became aware of something else – something about myself.Most non-celebrity authors write to share what they know, and not for the meager financial returnsreceived for the time and effort it takes to produce a book. It is for that reason, and the wonderfulresponse I received from so many people, that I decided to reprint this edition and make itavailable to the public. As an architect, I continue to be acutely aware of the threat to our environment from poorly planneddevelopments and unrelenting urban sprawl, and with it, the desecration of natural breedinghabitats for cavity-nesting birds. I started my own personal crusade by encouraging others to buildbirdhouses, and in so doing, I took notice of what the marketplace had to offer. For the most partproducts were poorly designed, shoddily constructed, and would not last a season. I wasdetermined to show others how to design and build a better birdhouse - the premise for the originalbook, and the premise for this edition as well. The concept of this book, Architectural Birdhouses, is based on geometric relationships whereyou start with a basic box and add related components consistent with the geometry of the box toform new relationships. The parts make up the whole, and the whole becomes the some of the parts.In this book, you will see this concept unfold in a natural progression with each chapter building onthe one that precedes it. In Section 1, Getting Started we will start with the basic tools andmaterials you will need to accomplish five basic tasks – measuring, cutting, drilling, fastening, andfinishing. Emphasis is placed on basic hand tools and corded hand tools. Section 2, Building theBasic Box, is a how-to section that shows you how to accomplish the various tasks needed to buildthe basic box. It stresses how to use the tools and materials of Section 1 for layout, cutting, drilling,and making joints, with tips on assembly and finishing. Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box is what Irefer to as the fun section. It introduces you to the three variations of the basic box concept, the useof enhancements; purchased items, templates, and handmade items you can fashion for changingshapes and features.

In Section 4, The Projects I will show you how to use the information from all the previoussections to make a variety of projects – 20 in all, based on the three variations of the basic box.Some projects are more difficult than others, and some, kids can make, with a little help from momand dad. All the projects include detailed diagrams, instructions, and photographs of the completedproject to help you visualize how they are made. Section 5, After You Build It, is a new illustrated section that covers the subject of attractingbirds, their habitat, nest box placement and support, security, housekeeping, and maintenance. Thissection will help you keep your creation safe and healthy for birds, and serviceable for many yearsto come. In the book's final section, Section 6, Display we will explore ways to display yourbirdhouses for artistic effect both outdoors and indoors using photographs taken at our home andproperty in Pinehurst, North Carolina.From my perspective, the object of this book is not to overwhelm you with projects too difficult tobuild, but provide ones you can actually achieve based on your individual skill level. From there Ihope to inspire you to go on and explore the depths of your own imagination, using this book as astarting point. The object of my endeavor is quite simple,

… it is not he who has done the best; it is he who suggests themost, he, not all whose meaning is at first obvious, and who leavesyou much to desire , to explain, to study ;much to complete in your

turn…Charles Augustin Saint-Beuve (1804-1869)

B

1 Getting Started

uilding a birdhouse is not exactly rocket science, and you do not need a workshopequipped with expensive tools, and hard-to-find materials to be successful. However,some of the birdhouses in this book do require better than average skills, and are best

accomplished with power tools.

Nonetheless, even for the novice there are projects in this book that can be achieved withsurprising results, with just a little time, patience, and basic manual skills. The good news is, veryfew corded tools are required for getting started and those that you need, you probably have aroundthe house, or can be borrowed from a friend. With a decent set of hand tools and some usefulaccessories, you can be well on your way to building some creditable birdhouses. Tools and Materials The tools and materials for making the projects in this book fall into five basic categories –measuring, cutting, drilling, fastening, and finishing. They consist of two groups – hand tools andpower tools, with power tools further divided into hand held or stationary bench tools. For thenovice builder I recommend using basic handheld tools consistent with your skill level. For theseasoned builder, tool selection choice is a matter of judgment based on personal experience. Within each of the five basic categories I will describe some of the tools that will help you achieveeach of the five basic tasks. For instance, on some projects, you can cut wood with a standardhandsaw, powered circular saw, jigsaw or table saw. The choice is yours with safety being yourprimary concern. All the projects in this book can be built with hand tools. However, for the moredifficult projects some tasks would be labor intensive and are better accomplished withelectrically powered tools for speed and efficiently. In all cases, the handheld electric drill isalmost an essential. You will need it for drilling various birdhouse holes, making pilot holes forscrews, and driving screws with the proper accessory drill bit. I build birdhouses for sale and use a combination of hand held powered tools as well as benchtools for accuracy and expediency, but I still reach for a simple hand tool when the occasiondemands it. Nonetheless, I do not have a high-powered shop – just a few serviceable poweredbench tools; a drill press, table saw and scroll saw. For purposes of assembly, I use a pneumaticnail gun that drives and countersinks nails with a pull of the trigger. It is fast, accurate and a realtime saver. Whatever tools you decide to use, choose those that you are most comfortable with andthat can do the job efficiently. Above all, respect the tool you are using, and use it for its intendedpurpose. Do not expect a tool to accomplish a task it was not designed to perform.

Measuring

For measuring and layout work, a tape measure and a combination square are very useful. Thetypical combination square is 12 inches long and suitable for laying out cross cut lines and 45-degree angles. The body of the square slides along the blade and can be set at any point with athumbscrew for setting accurate measurements. The square's body usually incorporates a smallbubble level and a scratch awl that can be used for marking your work. The blade portion of thecombination square can be removed and used as a straightedge or ruler. A 25-foot tape measure ishandy for measuring and laying out longer stock. For angles of 30 and 60 degrees a simple 30/60drafting triangle will do. For drawing circles and circle segments, all you need is an inexpensiveadjustable pencil compass.CuttingFor straight cuts, a standard crosscut or ripsaw will do the job. A crosscut saw, as the nameimplies, is a hand tool used to cut across wood grain. It usually has five to ten teeth per inch toproduce a smooth cut. A jigsaw, also known as a saber saw, is a great portable power tool for abeginner. It will cut wood faster and more efficiently than a handsaw, and its adjustable guide canbe tilted for cutting miters and bevels. The jigsaw uses a 4-inch blade driven in an up-and-down orreciprocating motion. This tool accommodates a variety of blade designs for cutting wood, metal,plastic, and PVC. With the appropriate blade, you can cut curves, scrolls, circlesand make pocket cuts in wood with or without a pilot hole. You can also cut curves and circleswith a coping saw or fret saw; both saws use very thin blades for fine cutting which are securedwith pins at each end of the saw, making blade changing simple and fast.

DrillingIn the process of building birdhouses, drilling is one of the more important tasks you willundertake. You actually want to leave holes in your work to allow birds to get in and out, air toflow through for ventilation, and excess water to drain freely. The cordless or corded hand drill isprobably the one tool found in most households, and for good reason. With the proper accessories,you can use it to drill pilot holes for other tools, fasten screws, cut out circles with an accessorydevice, and bore holes of various sizes. The most convenient type to use is a 3/8 inch cordedvariable speed reversible drill with a keyless chuck for removal and tightening accessories.

Drill BitsFor building the projects in this book, you will need a couple of drill bits and a hole saw. Irecommend a 1-1/2 inch Spade Bit for drilling the most common birdhouse entry holes. A 1/2 inchspade bit is adequate for making air holes. Spade bits are so named for their flat, spade-like shape.They have a very sharp, pointed tip for easy centering, however the holes cut with a spade bit canbe rather rough, which is fine so don't worry about it, as it makes entry holes that are easier forbirds to grip. A 1/4 inch Brad Point Bit is handy for drilling drainage holes in the bottom of your

nesting box. A brad-point bit is really a modified twist drill with a sharp center point that keeps thebit from wandering and side spurs that cut wood fibers cleanly. For drilling smaller holes in wood,these bits are excellent. If you intend to use screws as a fastening device, choose a small diameterdrill bit – somewhat smaller than the screw you are using, for making pilot holes prior to drivingscrews. You will notice that the majority of projects in this book have two entry holes forming twoduplicate fronts. I decided upon this method for three reasons:

It allows a bird a means of escape from predators.It allows a birdhouse to be oriented in a direction best suited to the environment andmost pleasing to the viewer.It allows your creative effort to be viewed from any angle and to be placed in a varietyof settings, indoors or outdoors.

Hole-SawsHole- saws are a combination saw and drill bit. They are available in a wide range of diameters;sold singly or as multiples in sets. As the name implies, hole-saws have teeth like a saw and areuseful for cutting large diameter holes. With a multiple blade hole-saw set, you can combine twocutters around the plunging bit, and cut a donut-shaped wooden circle with an entry hole all in oneoperation. For our purposes, I call this wood cutout a predator guard. However, multiple bladehole-saws are not easy to come by. As an alternate to making a predator guard in one operation,you can use a 3-inch diameter hole-saw for the outer circle and a 1-1/2 inch spade bit to drill theinner circle. FasteningOnce you have measured, cut, and drilled the basic pieces for your birdhouse, now is the time toput it all together. In assembling your birdhouse, there is nothing more critical then getting all thepieces to line up properly for gluing and nailing. I use a bench hook to assemble most of thebirdhouses I make. It is a great little device for aligning and squaring up the four pieces of yourbasic box by just using hand pressure while the glue is setting up. I mention this device for those ofyou who will make more than one project; it is an effective aid for "getting it straight" and a realtime saver. It consists of a 12-inch square piece of medium density fiberboard (MDF) with two 1 x3 inch cleats glued and nailed to the top surface at a true 90-degree angle. A front cleat is attachedto the underside of the MDF and acts as a hook, overlapping the top of your counter or workbench.

ClampsWho could not use another set of hands? That is exactly what clamps are, additional help in holdingpieces steady while you are joining parts together, especially if you are only making a singleproject. A pair of medium size Quick-Grip throat clamps is about all you need for the smallprojects in this book. These clamps are capable of exerting a high concentrated force over a limitedsurface by squeezing the handle with just one hand while your free hand is used to steady yourwork. What could be simpler?

Nails, Hammer and Nail SetNails, together with waterproof glue, make an excellent choice for fastening the pieces of your nestbox together. There are over 100 varieties of nails you can purchase, but for birdhouse building, Isuggest the 1-1/2-inch long casing nail. These nails are a heavier version of the standard finishingnail, and have a small indented head for countersinking with a nail set. You do not have tocountersink driven nails, but if you are like me, doing so makes a neater job and avoids rust stains.Of course, filling the holes left behind is an added task but it sure makes for better workmanship.For attaching small moldings and trim you can select small, thin nails called brads, however thewaterproof glue I recommend usually does the trick without nailing and it avoids splitting thinner,delicate wood pieces. Whatever type of nail you use, your choice will depend on its application.Left exposed, galvanized and other coated nails can be compromised by hammering. On the otherhand, if you are using redwood or western red cedar, you will want to use stainless steel nails, asthe tannic acid in these wood species will cause unsightly staining if you use galvanized nails. Amedium sized hammer will work just fine. For delicate work just use less force when driving

smaller nails.

ScrewsIf you live in a climate subject to extreme weather conditions and heavy snows, you cannot beatscrews for fastening reliability. And if you are using redwood or cedar, stainless steel screwsshould be your screw of choice. Above all, do not use drywall screws. These “bugle” flared-headed screws are designed for bearing against paper-faced drywall. They do not have the strengthor capability of screws intended for fastening other materials.

gIf you want to use screws for birdhouse building, I recommend the trim head screw. It resembles afinishing nail, but comes with a square slot in the top. The screw has a trumpet-shaped head andextremely sharp point that allows the screw to countersink itself as it is being driven; it is a realtime saver with strong holding power. The head of the screw requires a square driver bit that seatsfirmly in the screw head to avoid stripping and “spin out," and a lot of unnecessary aggravation.Another type of screw you will require is a standard 1-1/2-inch, #8 pan head Phillips wood screwfor securing the wood base to your nesting box to allow for easy removal for maintenance. For bestresults in driving screws, you can obtain the appropriate driver bits for your electric drill. Glues, Adhesive and Wood FillerOf the many types of glue on the market, I have found Titebond III Ultimate wood glue yields thebest results when used with nails or screws. It is waterproof, extremely strong and cleans up withwater. It can be sanded and painted and offers a longer assembly time than its predecessorTitebond II. Although I prefer the number three version, Titebond II is also a very good product. It

cost less than Titebond III; remains strong over gaps less than 1/32nd of an inch, and is waterresistant but not waterproof. Both glues are non-toxic, and for my money, you cannot go wrong with

either choice, but for the best exterior performance, I suggest you try Titebond III. Liquid Nails is aname brand construction adhesive used to join dissimilar materials like metal to wood. It is alsovery useful for adhering small trim pieces and moldings. It can be purchased in a handy squeezetube for small projects. The adhesive is fast bonding, permanent, weather resistant, sandable, andpaintable. Liquid nails works in areas where a hammer and nails cannot. Elmer's Carpenter'sInterior/Exterior Wood Filler is a very good product for repairing dents, scratches, and gouges inwood surfaces and for filling countersunk nail and screw holes. When dry it can be sanded to asmooth, flat surface for painting. It can be purchased in a squeezable tube or various sizedcontainers.

Sandpaper and Sanding BlocksSandpaper is useful, but birdhouses do not really need a lot of sanding. A couple of grades ofgarnet sandpaper are about all you need – fine (180-150), medium (120-80) and coarse (60-50).You can wrap a piece of sandpaper around a dowel for circular sanding, or around a wood blockfor straight, flatwork. I assure you, birds will not love you any more for a finely sanded box or onethat is just a little rough – they will never know the difference. FinishingAs a final finish, to protect and help preserve your birdhouse, you can apply paint or stain to suityour personal taste, or just leave your project natural, coated with a couple of coats of wood sealeror clear polyurethane. If you decide on color, there are several prevailing opinions regarding itsuse. Some purists advocate leaving the wood in its natural state. I do not. Other folks favor muted

colors. They claim that birds shy away from bright colors. I disagree. According to the NationalBird Feeding Society, “The color of the house probably has little influence on birds choosing it.Proper entrance dimensions are more important.” We have bright colored birdhouses on ourproperty and every season they are occupied by cavity nesters. The choice to paint, stain, or leaveyour birdhouse natural is up to you. The sheer number of surface finishes available is staggering,and where a special finish or technique is suggested for a project in this book, I will explain thetechnique for that specific project. Paint, Brushes and Masking TapeAs far as finishes go, paint is still the most popular choice. Paint is user friendly and an excellentchoice for exterior exposure. Latex paints are more flexible and breathable than oil-based paints,allowing moisture to escape and withstand the inevitable shrinking and swelling of wood. If youdecide to work with stains, I have found that solid stains are more penetrating than transparent orsemi-transparent varieties. In the original edition of this book, I suggested using a primer undercoatwith artist's acrylic paint as a finish coat. At the recommendation of one of my readers, I tried oneof the combination primer and paint in one-application varieties. To my surprise, I was verypleased with the results. I now use BEHR Premium Plus Ultra interior/exterior paint in one.Instead of buying more paint than you need, you can purchase the 7-ounce sample size, ormismatched rejects for less than a dollar. You have your choice of a full range of colors availablethrough BEHR's computerized color matching system. The paint is 100% acrylic latex; resistspeeling, blistering, fading, and mildew growth, providing a washable finish which can be easilycleaned to remove stains and dirt. Clean up is simple with soap and water. Applying paint to rawwood is very hard on the bristles of a brush. I suggest you use synthetic nylon/ polyester brushes inthree sizes -1-inch flat for large surfaces, a medium size pointed brush for details, and an" edger"brush for painting those hard to get at surface transitions. Scotch Blue Painters Tape is veryhelpful for masking colors and it will speed up your painting time. Regular masking tape or inferiorbrands of painter's tape are not as effective.

Heavy- Duty Power ToolsI have purposely played down the use of heavy-duty power tools to encourage people of variousskills to try their hand at some of the projects in this book, and to explore their own creativity. Forthe more seasoned woodworker I do not have to tell you about the speed, precision, and versatilityof heavy-duty power tools. As a commercial birdhouse builder, I would not be in business verylong without them. In my shop, I rely on three bench-type tools: table saw, drill press and scrollsaw. For fastening, I use a pneumatic nail gun that drives interchangeable sized nails with speedand precision. However, even with some "shop mates" I still depend on many of the hand tools andaccessories I recommend. Telling people what to do and what tools to use is always difficultbecause you have no way of knowing the skills and tool availability of your audience. I am wellaware, of the very talented people out there who do not need my advice on the safe use of powertools. They realize the damage they can cause if used improperly.

A Safe WorkspacePeople who see my workshop are surprised at how meager it is. It is really quite simple but veryserviceable. My shop measures 10 feet wide by 14 feet long with a center aisle and counters oneach side. With the exception of my base-mounted table saw, my bench power tools sit on thecounter, mounted on 3/4-inch wood bases for mobility. When needed, I just slide the selected

power tool down the counter and clamp it in place at a convenient location. When not in use, I slideall the power tools to one side, freeing precious counter space for other tasks. My hand tools andaccessories are hung on the wall or stored on shelves, with my portable powered tools tuckedaway below the counter. Do you need a shop to build a few birdhouses – certainly not? You will require a place to work.The place you choose should be clean and uncluttered, preferably away from other activities,especially food preparation areas. You should have grounded power outlets at your disposal forany corded electrical tools you may use, and adequate counter space for layout, measuring andassembly. All your tools and equipment should be thought out ahead of time, placed well at handand within easy reach. Above all, make sure you have excellent lighting conditions, whether it isoverhead, or task lighting. Wherever you work, and whatever tools you use, safety should alwaysbe a first and foremost consideration.

Dress properly: do not wear loose clothing or jewelry that can be caught up in movingparts.Wear safety goggles and a dust mask whenever you are cutting or drilling pieces ofwood that could create chips, splinters, and considerable sawdust.If you use loud power tools, like a table saw, use ear protection.Keep your work area clean and well swept, with no loose cords to slip on.Have a first aid kit handy and a phone nearby for emergencies.

It all comes down to a combination of common sense and alertness. If it looks and feels wrong, itprobably is. Woodworking is a hobby that involves sharp objects, often spinning at high speeds.The possible cost of making a mistake is so great that taking undue risks is not worth the injury youcould sustain. WoodNesting boxes can be made from a variety of materials, but wood is still king. It is a good insulator,readily available, easily worked with hand or power tools, and is akin to a bird’s natural habitat.However, wood has its shortcomings. Being a natural material, it absorbs and releases moisturethat leads to distortion. The art of working with wood is to anticipate moisture problems tominimize dimensional changes. Surface coatings are one defense, but no coating is entirelymoisture proof. To get the best service from wood you must take care in selecting, storing, and

working with it. Selecting WoodHow a board is fabricated has a bearing on its stability. Boards purchased from your locallumberyard or home improvement store are generally plain-sawn, with grain lines runninghorizontally to the width of the board. Even though the boards are kiln-dried, they still have atendency to swell, shrink, cup, and twist. Just hold a board up to your eye, look down its length,and you will see what I mean. If possible, try to purchase quarter-sawn boards, with the grain linesrunning vertical to the end of the board. Quarter-sawn boards offer better resistance to warping andare dimensionally more stable. If available, seek out tight-grained boards instead of the wide graintype, they are less prone to cupping and warping. Lumber is graded according to its surfaceappearance and thickness. For birdhouse construction, you will be using boards that are less than 2inches thick, graded on a diminishing scale based on surface imperfections. The scale is quitebroad but your selection should range from Select C grade to No.1 Common, or even as low as aNo.3 Common. Do not always buy the most expensive board. Consider what your finish will beand what will show. If you intend to finish your birdhouse with paint or a solid stain, imperfectionsin the wood will be less apparent. Your geographical location, relative to where a wood is grownand milled, will have a bearing on its availability and cost. For durability, I suggest you choosewood with an actual thickness of no less than 3/4-inch – nominally referred to as 1-inch thick atyour point of purchase. Wood SizesWhen selecting a specific board size, remember that boards are sold according to their nominaldimension. The actual size is the dimension it comes from the mill after it is surfaced. For example,a standard 2 x 4 is actually 1-1/2 inches x 3-1/2 inches. The following chart is a handy referencefor selecting the right board size. In the Projects Section of this book, I have included cutting listsindicating the board sizes you will need to complete a project and to help you make the fewest cutswith the least waste. The list, Standard Dimensions of Softwood Boards will aid you in selectingthe right board size. The nominal dimension is the way boards are listed at your place of purchase.The surfaced size is the actual thickness of the board. Although not listed, another handy lumberdimension to remember is the standard 4 x 4 with an actual dimension of 3-1/2 inches square. A 4 x4 is actually a post and ideal for mounting all the birdhouses in this book.

Wood SpeciesIn North America the principal softwoods used for making nesting boxes are cedar, cypress,Douglas fir, pine, redwood and poplar; althoughpoplar is technically a hardwood. Each species has different characteristics. Some aredimensionally more stable and better at resisting rot and insect damage.CedarThere are six common species of cedar. Western Red Cedar is the most popular for birdhouses. Itis native to the northwestern United States, strong, lightweight, and easy to work, with very lowshrinkage. It also holds paint well and is highly resistant to decay, but it can be expensive and has atendency to split and splinter. Like Redwood, cedar bleeds tannins, an acid within the wood thatmakes painting and fasteners problematic. Tannins can appear as dark stains around fasteners andcan even show through paint.

Dimensions of Softwood Boards(All dimensions are in inches)

Nominal Size Surfaced Size (actual)

1 x 1 3/4 x 3/4 1 x 2 3/4 x 1-1/2 1 x 4 3/4 x 3-1/2 1 x 6 3/4 x 5-1/2 1 x 8 3/4 x 7-1/2 1 x 10 3/4 x 9-1/4 1 x 12 3/4 x 11-1/4

CypressCypress is primarily found in the southeast region of the United States. It is not an easy wood tocome by, and one that is distinguished by decay pockets known as pecks. However, it is highlyresistant to decay, exhibits moderate shrinkage, and holds paint well. On the down side, it isexpensive and resists nailing. Douglas fir

Grown in the Pacific Northwest, Douglas fir is a strong, hard, heavy wood that holds paintextremely well; is moderately priced, but not readily available outside of the region where it isgrown. PinePine is readily available, economical and has many applications. It is grown in various parts ofNorth America in seven different species. Southern Pine usually includes long leaf, short leaf, andloblolly, all of which are amply available in the southeast. Pine is easy to work, lightweight, andsoft. It holds paint well; is relatively inexpensive and a good choice for nesting boxes, even thoughit is prone to warping. Pine and cedar, are the two woods commonly available at your local homeimprovement store. RedwoodLike Douglas fir, redwood is primarily grown in the Pacific coast region. It is a straight grainwood, easily worked that holds paint well, shrinks very little, and is highly resistant to decay. It isexpensive compared to other soft woods and it has a tendency to split and crack. Redwood also exhibits the same tannins problemassociated with Western Red Cedar. PoplarPoplar is sometimes referred to as the “soft hardwood”. It is light to medium in weight, strong, soft,and easily worked. It is moderately priced and grown primarily from New England to Michiganand from the Appalachians to the Gulf of Mexico. With its very close grain, it is an excellentchoice for detail work and moldings. Treated WoodChemically treated arsenical wood, labeled CCA, ACA, ACZA, should not be used in birdhouseconstruction. These wood products can be hazardous to your health and that of our featheredfriends. As early as 2004, the most common chemical treatment CCA (chromate copper arsenate)was replaced with ACQ (alkaline copper quat). ACQ is much safer to use, holds up well underoutdoor conditions, and will not make a tasty lunch for insects. Other Flat Materials

Plywood is a manufactured product, universal in its use for a variety of applications. Due to itsmany layers, joints are difficult to make and fasten, and edges need special attention to preventthem from delaminating. If you use plywood, make sure it is for exterior use or marine grade.Trim Board is a pre-primed product used in residential construction and sold in homeimprovement stores. It is a hardboard wood product made from 100% wood fiber coated withprotective resins and finished with an oven-cured primer. I use it as a supporting layer for lattice-type roofs and exposed finished roofs for its weather resistant quality. However, any visibleunderside of the material must be sealed, and the top surface finished with two coats of durablepaint. The material is thinner than wood, usually measuring 1/2-inch in thickness. It tends to bebrittle and not suitable for basic box construction but as a roof material, it is very durable.

Project under construction, using trim board as a base for applying lattice strips.

2 Building the Basic Box

Build a box, and you can build a great Birdhouse

If you build it, will they come?

Not necessarily, if you build for the wrong species in the wrong environment, they will not come.In North America, of the 920 known birds, only 85 are classified as primary or secondary cavity-nesters. Primary nesters make their own nesting holes, and do so with each new breeding season.Secondary cavity-nesters are not so lucky, they depend on hollows made by other birds, andcrevices found in decaying trees called "snags" or fabricated nest boxes. Of this group,approximately 50 species will regularly inhabit birdhouses. But do not be fooled by what appearsto be a small number, it’s the sheer volume of these birds, and the steady decline of suitable nestingplaces that make building birdhouses so essential to their survival. Studies indicate that the rate ofsurvival for birds bred in nesting boxes is 60 to 80%, as opposed to open nests where a newnestling only has a 20 to 40% chance for survival. So what makes a good birdhouse? The answer is quite simple:

Adequate box and entry-hole size for the intended speciesProper ventilation and provision for drainageEasy access for cleaning and maintenanceStructural stability and quality workmanship

Cavity-nesting birds depend on hollows made by other birds, and crevices found in decayingtrees called snags. Birdhouse Dimensions Birdhouses do not have to be mathematically precise. As indicated in the Birdhouse Data andDimensions Chart, most small cavity-nesters can be accommodated in boxes of similardimensions. The same holds true for larger birds. It is also generally accepted that entry holes of 1-1/2 inches in diameter will suffice for all small birds and still keep aggressive starlings at bay. Forlarger birds, entry holes tend to be more species-specific. Birdhouse dimensions are usefulguidelines, but more important is knowledge of a bird’s dominant habitat. Common sense dictatesthat you would not build a nest box to attract a particular bird without knowing where that bird ismost likely to live and breed. This is where the alphabetical Chart Key comes in handy to giveyou an idea of the dominant habitats associated with a particular species. Each habitat isdesignated with a letter from A to K shown on the Chart Key and the Birdhouse Data andDimension Chart. This information helps you locate where a particular bird may be found. It alsoserves as a guideline for making your personal property more conducive for attracting birds

Chart Key A = Forest edges, meadows, open woods, groves, golf courses, and parks.B = Wooded open forests, farmlands, mixed coniferous and deciduous trees.C = Pastures, fields, meadows, parks and woodlots.D = Open fields with scattered trees.E = Open fields near water, pastures and marshes.F = Dry plains spotted with trees or cacti; semi desert.G = Forest edges, shallow water, mixed deciduous or coniferous trees.H = Open forests, fresh water, marshes and swamps.I = Lakes, rivers, ponds and mudflats.J = Areas of scrub vegetation, frequently with thorn bushes. Habitat Quality: Good habitat quality provides adequate nesting sites, abundant food to supportadults and young, and many places to escape predators. Without these essentials, birds will goelsewhere.

Birdhouse Data and Dimensions Chart

Bird Floor Entry Hole Hole Height Interior HeightAbove Dominant Size Diameter Above Floor Height Ground (feet) Habitat Downey Woodpecker 4 x4 1-1/4-1-1/2 8 – 12 8 -10 5 -20 GBlack-cap Chickadee 4 x 4 1-1/8-1-1/2 6 – 8 8 - 12 5 –15 ACarolina Chickadee 4 x 4 1-1/8-1-1/2 6 – 8 8 – 12 5 –15 AMountain Chickadee 4 x 4 1-1/8-1-1/2 6 – 8 8 – 12 5 –15 ABrown-Head Nuthatch 4 x 4 1-1/8-1-1/2 6 – 7 9 – 12 5– 15 BWhite-breast Nuthatch 4 x 4 1- /8-1-1/2 6 – 8 8 – 12 5– 20 AHouse Finch 5 x 5 1-1/2 5 – 7 9 – 12 5 – 15 JBewick's Wren 5 x 5 1-1/4-1-1/2 6 – 7 9 – 12 5 –10 BCarolina Wren 5 x 5 1-1-1/2 6 – 7 6 – 12 5 – 10 BHouse Wren 5 x 5 1-1-1/2 6 – 7 6 – 12 5 – 10 CPlain Titmouse 5 x 5 1-3/8-1-1/2 6 – 7 9 – 12 5 –15 BTufted Titmouse 5-x-5 1-3/8-1-1/2 6 – 7 8 – 12 5 –15 BTree Swallow 5 x 5 1-1/4-1-1/2 1 – 7 9 – 12 5 –15 EViolet Green Swallow 5 x 5 1-1/4-1-1/2 1 – 7 6 – 12 5 –15 EProthonotary Warbler 5 x 5 1-1/4-1-1/2 5 – 7 8 – 12 4 –

12 EEastern Bluebird 5 x 5 1-1/2 6 – 7 8 – 12 5 – 10 AWestern Bluebird 5 x 5 1-1/2 6 – 7 8 – 12 5 –10 BMountain Bluebird 5 x 5 1-1/2 6 – 7 8 – 12 5 –10 BAsh-throat Flycatcher 6 x 6 1-1/2 6 – 7 8 – 12 3 –20 FGreat-crest Flycatcher 6 x 6 1-1/2 6 – 8 8 – 12 6 –50 BGold-front Woodpecker 6 x 6 2 10 – 14 14 – 16 3 –25 BRedhead Woodpecker 6 x 6 2 10 – 14 14 – 16 8 – 80 APurple Martin 6 x 6 2-1/4 1 6 5 – 20 EBufflehead Duck 7 x 7 2 – 3 17 – 19 17 – 24 16 –24 INorthern Flicker 8 x 8 2-1/2 10 – 20 16 – 24 6 –20 BScreech Owls 8 x 8 3 10 – 12 12 – 18 10 – 30 DAmerican Kestrel 9 x 9 3 10 – 12 16 – 18 10 –30 ACommon Goldeneye 12 x 12 4 16 – 18 24 – 25 15 –20 IHooded Merganser 12 x 12 4 16 – 18 24 – 25 15 –20 JWood Duck 12 x 12 4 16 – 18 24 – 25 6 – 30 HCommon Merganser 12 x 12 4 16 – 18 24 – 25 15 –20 A

All dimensions are in inches unless noted in feet. House sparrows and starlings are not listed, as they are an imported,

aggressive species and competitors with native nesting-box birds. These two species,

introduced from Europe, are not protected by U.S law and may be removed from nests. The Basic BoxGiven the similarity in nest box size, does one size fit all birds? Well, not exactly. The BirdhouseData & Dimensions Chart, which I have arranged by box size, suggests that a basic box,constructed within certain parameters, will accommodate all small birds. It is a bit different forlarger species, but even there, dimensional similarities do exist. Keep in mind, that althoughbirdhouse dimensions are significant, birds are creatures in the wild, and they do not go aboutmeasuring holes or potential nesting boxes. It has been known for small birds to use larger housesor for woodpeckers to enlarge entry holes to suit their needs. Nonetheless, all the projects in thisbook do list specific dimensions for building purposes and continuity. Guidelines are helpful, butwhen circumstances arise where a few dimensions may have to be altered, that is okay. With theemphasis on small birds, the majority of projects in this book are based on what I call the BasicBox.

Dimensions of the Basic Box Woodworking BasicsWoodworking basics are methods and tips to aide you in building a durable, watertight nest box. Inone way or another, these basics apply to all projects featured in this book, but no matter whattools, tips, or methods you use, they are no excuse for poor workmanship. Proper layout, cutting,drilling, assemblage, and finishing are tasks only you can perform in accordance with your level ofskill. LayoutLayout requires accurate measuring and the maximum use of raw material. T he Standard

Dimensions of Softwood chart will help you to select the board size that best suits your needs. Inthe project section, each project is illustrated with the proper dimensions for each piece you willrequire. Pieces to be cut from the same size board can be laid out with a standard tape measure orcombination square.

If you layout your pieces along the length of the board, marking your various cross cut lines as yougo, make sure you make allowance for each saw cut. If you use a combination square, here is howto get the most use out of it. Set the combination square to the exact width and length dimensionrequired. Hold the square against the board, and mark the dimensions with a pencil. For all yourstraight cuts, continue the same process, adjusting the length of the square, as the need requires. For laying out 45 degree angled-cuts, just set the 45-degree side of the square against your board tomark the required cut.

Additional angles of 30 and 60 degrees can be drawn using a standard 30/60 degree draftingtriangle in conjunction with the carpenter’s square, which serves as a T-square.

If the need arises, you can loosen the setscrew on the square and use the ruler portion as a straightedge. On the other hand, instead of marking with a pencil you can scribe a line with the handy awlthat is part of the tool, or use it to make a starter hole to keep a drill bit from drifting. In addition,the combination square can be used as a level to make sure your nesting box is squared- up forassembly. It is easy to see why this user-friendly tool is called a combination square. CuttingIf you only want to build a few basic birdhouses, you can do so with basic cutting tools. Whencutting by hand, make sure the piece you are cutting is properly clamped to your work surfacebefore you start.For cross cuts, cutting across the width of a board, a standard crosscut saw will do the job. Tosteady your hand while cutting, set a block of wood against the blade to keep it from wobbling.

Rip cuts, cutting along the length of a board, can also be made with a crosscut saw if the length ofthe cut is not too long. A saber saw is a better choice for longer lengths. For cutting smaller pieces

you can use a saber saw with a piece of scrap wood or your combination square clamped to yourwork surface to act as a guide. Saber saws can accommodate several types of blade. For finecutting, use a 3/16 inch hollow ground blade, but be careful, the thinner the blade the easier it is tobreak. Most saber saws are equipped with an adjustable base guide that can be set for cuttingmiters and bevels, but always clamp a straight edge guide to keep your saw in line.

Although a saber saw with a fine blade can be used for making curved cuts with a small radius, acoping saw can do likewise, and it is safer and far less expensive for the beginner. The coping sawis also very handy for cutting small trim pieces. Like the saber saw, it can accommodate a varietyof blades for fine or coarse cutting.

There several tips I use when cutting with a power bench saw that could be applied to hand cutting.

Tape pieces together, like gables, fronts, and sides, and cut both pieces in oneoperation.For small repetitive pieces, gang-tape strips together and cut several at one time.If you need special duplicate pieces, cut one exactly to size and use it as a template-tracing guide for any additional pieces.After you cut all your required pieces, label them by writing on a piece of masking tapeand sticking it on the work piece. It also helps to include an arrow showing the properdirection for assembly. Do not write on the wood, you are just making extra work foryourself when it comes time to remove the marks.If you are using all miter or bevel cuts, cut them when you do your basic box cutting, itsaves time and effort later on.

DrillingI know of no other woodworking task than building birdhouses where holes are what you want inyour finish project. You will need several holes, and it is best to drill them right after you cut yourbox pieces.

Before you start drilling, always place a piece of scrap wood under the piece you are working onand securely clamp your work to your work surface. Small entry holes, 1-1/2 inches in diameter

are best made with a spade bit by simply drilling partway through the wood until the point exits theopposite side. Turn the piece over and drill from the opposite side to complete the hole. Beforeyou start drilling, you will find this method makes drilling entry holes a lot easier, and prevents thewood from ripping out. To avoid drowning newly hatched nestlings, use a pilot bit to drill 1/4- inch drain holes in bottompiece of the box, preferably one in each corner. As an option, when using a recessed bottom, cut allfour corners on a slight angle for the same purpose. A 1/2- inch spade bit can also be used fordrilling ventilation holes; located preferably higher rather than lower, and across from one another,to release the upward flow of heat. When the box design allows it, another ventilation method thatI find useful, is to cut the sides lower than the front and back to create an air slot for crossventilation.

If you plan to assemble your birdhouse with the trim head screws, pilot holes are necessary toavoid cracking the wood. Remember, when using screws in softwood, the pilot hole should alwaysbe slightly smaller than the screw shank for a good fit without splitting the wood. For attachingbases to your birdhouse, you will need to drill holes for Phillips screws. These holes should alsobe smaller than the screw size to allow for attaching and reattaching the base before and aftermaintenance. JointsFor durability and water-tightness, solid joints are your first line of defense. In nest box buildingthe three most basic joints are the plain miter, butt joint, and shoulder joint.

For right angle connections, an accurately cut glued and nailed butt joint will work just fine. Roofjoints are a bit trickier. The miter joint is generally used for sloped roofs because it does notexpose vulnerable end grain. The butt joint is easier to make and still the most popular for 45-degree slopes, but to survive harsh weather conditions it requires some form of end grain treatmentfor the one side of the joint that is left exposed. A more difficult joint to make is the 60-degreegable miter. Even a bench saw is not much help, without some kind of a jig, since most saw bladescannot be titled to a 60-degree angle. However, if you do not mind dealing with end grain, acompromised 60-degree joint can be made by cutting two boards at a 30-degree bevel and joiningthem in what might be termed a butt-miter joint. Since I do not consider a 60-degree roof joint asbasic, I will show you how to cut this joint on one of the projects where it is used. In woodworking, wood joints have their pros and cons, and it comes down to choices andcompromises that you must make. Nonetheless, any joint that exposes the end grain is a problemjoint and needs to be properly sealed using one of the following methods:

Prior to painting, coat the exposed grain with a mixture of two parts waterproof glueto one part water.Spread a thin coat of paintable caulking adhesive over the grain.Paint two coats of clear acrylic medium over the exposed joint – one coat beforepainting and one coat after.You should pay close attention to all joints located in horizontal surfaces; caulk them

or use one of the suggested sealing methods. An old construction rule of thumb says ifa water-suspect joint points its nose to the sky – caulk it!

AssemblyBefore you assemble the four sides of your basic birdhouse, spend a little time in worthwhilepreparation.

Sand any rough edges that might impede assembly and finishing.

Clean all impediments from the surfaces to be joined, sawdust, wood chips, andsplinters.

Make sure all exposed surfaces have been properly sealed.

For good measure, temporarily tape your pieces together to check for proper fit,accurate joints, or any uneven surfaces that you may regret later.

There are several ways to assemble the basic box. In the preceding Tools and Materials section, Imentioned that I use a handmade bench hook for assembly for most of the birdhouses I build. It is agreat little device for squaring up and aligning the various parts of your project. Now I realize ifyou are making a single birdhouse, you do not want to go to the trouble of making a bench hook.Nevertheless, you will need a substantial surface that is level to maintain accuracy; preferably, onethat has a vertical side that acts like a bench hook. There are several ways you can assemble the Basic Box. You can hold the pieces together withclamps or tape while you drive your fasteners, or you can use a simple bench hook for alignmentand support, or some similar such method that allows for easy assembly. For illustration purposes,I will show you how to assemble the Basic Box using screws or nails with the help of a bench hookor with the use of clamps. Whatever method you use to assemble the Basic Box your first order ofbusiness should be gluing for a long-lasting strong joint. First apply a bead of Titebond III

Ultimate wood glue to the inside edges of the first front piece where it will meet the sides. Applythe glue in a zigzag bead; a thinner coat is better than a thick one. Then rub the two pieces to beconnected together to evenly transfer the glue from one surface to the other.

If you are using nails with a bench hook or similar method of alignment, as the glue is setting up,tape the pieces together prior to nailing to keep them aligned. Drive the casing nails at a slightangle (varying the angles from nail to nail) and they will be less likely to pull out over time. If youdo not have a method for keeping your pieces aligned and level, use your combination square tosquare up your box. You do not want a crooked box because that leads to a crooked roof. After youhave nailed on the first front, flip the box over and repeat this step for the second front. This is theeasiest way to assemble the Basic Box for beginners.

If you are using screws with a bench hook or similar means of support, first apply glue as noted inthe previous step. While applying pressure to the front of the box, use your corded hand drill withthe proper drill bit to drive trim screws into the predrilled pilot holes. After you have attached thefirst front, turn the box around and repeat the process for the second front.

If you are using clamps with hand-driven trim screws, after applying the glue, clamp the fourpieces of the box together in the correct alignment. Drive the screws into the predrilled pilot holeswith a screwdriver containing the proper driver head.

TIP: Dipping your nail or screw into a bar of soap before you drive it helps it go in easier. FinishingSome of the projects require intricate painting and I am often asked how I achieve successfulresults. My answer is, "Very carefully". Of course, this reply hardly suffices as an answer to alegitimate question. What I usually do is paint the main body of the birdhouse before I add theintricate trim. I paint the trim pieces separately, then glue, and nail these pieces on to the main bodyof the box. On the main body of a project, where pieces overlap or different colored surfaces meet,I either use Scotch Blue Painters Tape to mask off one piece from another, or I freehand paint theadjoining edge with an artist's "edger" brush – once again, very carefully. An "edger" brush isessentially a flat brush with the end cut at an angle. These brushes can be purchased from just aboutany art or craft store. This handy brush is excellent for painting precise lines and curves as well asedges. To properly "cut in" edges, use the narrow edge of the brush, pressing just hard enough toflex the bristles. Keep your eye on the paint edge, and paint with long, slow strokes.

Before I start painting, I countersink all my nails with a nail set, fill the holes with Elmer'sCarpenter's Interior/Exterior Wood Filler, and then lightly sand the surface to get a smoothfinish.

This added little step keeps the fasteners from rusting and staining the finish and it makes for goodworkmanship. Is it necessary? Not really, if you are only making a single birdhouse or two, butwhen you are in the business of making birdhouses, as I am, it is a sign of a quality product.When adding the final paint finish, I offer the following tips:

In selecting colors, keep in mind paint dries darker so choose colors accordingly.Paint light-colored areas first followed by dark over light for better coverage.Paint the edges of wood surfaces before painting flat surfaces.Always paint in the direction of the wood grain.In general, smooth out your initial strokes as you paint, always starting from a wetedge.

BasesI usually consider the base, or bottom of the box, as separate from the box itself. With the basebeing separate, it allows for attachment to a post or other support independent of the house itself.Once the base is in place the house can be attached or removed from the underside. When attachedto the box the base then serves as the nesting platform, a means of access, and a mounting device all

in one. Regardless of how a base is cut, they all share common features – concealed rust resistantfasteners, protection from water intrusion, and for the most part, four blocks, balls or thread spoolsfor interior display. The following bases are ones I typically use:

The Chamfer, with a four-side beveled edge and 1/4-inch recess.Square cut, featuring a 1/4-inch setback.Semi-recessed, with one surface concealed and the other set back.The Flat Plate; a basic block attached to the underside of a pocket hole.

Basic Box VariationsThe Basic Box can be tall, short, narrow, or wide and still be a captivating nesting place for birds.I have developed four variations of the basic box that serve as the underlying structure for thedesigns in this book. Each project begins with one of the variations to help you visualize aparticular design and to comprehend its simple origin. Variation 1 is a rectilinear box.Variation 2 is the integral gable box.Variation 3 Is a basic box crowned with a special top.Variation 4 is what I refer to as the "three-sided" box.The best is yet to come!Up to this point, we have explored the Basic Box concept, so where do you go from here? Well, ifyou were to take any of these Basic Box variations, with an adequately sized entry hole, then attach

a top and bottom you might attract a bird or two. However, the result might not be a fascinatingfeast for the human eye, which is why the Basic Box is just the beginning. From this point on thereal fun begins. Starting with any one of the four variations, you can progress from Building theBasic Box to going Beyond the Basic Box by adding some well-chosen enhancements that I willshow you, or by exercising some of that stored-up creative ingenuity.

3 Beyond the Basic Box

From Basic to Beyond Basic If variety is the spice of life, birdhouses have to be one of the seasonings. They can be found in avast array of shapes, sizes, and colors, made from every imaginable material you can think of, andsome you may have never thought possible. Birdhouses can be purely functional, fanciful ordownright bizarre, but one thing is for sure, they offer the greatest opportunity for artisticexpression and personal gratification. Building birdhouses can be fun for the whole family - a greatway to teach the little ones about art and design while showing them how to handle and respecttools. So where do you start? Like the projects in this book, you start with the basics and go beyond,trying your hand at the projects that interest you and are best suited to your skill level. Regardlessof where you start, it all begins with one of the Basic Boxes. Change a few shapes, alter a fewfeatures, embellish a surface or two, add some of your own creative juices, and you will have arecipe for success. In this section, I will show you how to change a simple box into a fascinating birdhouse bychanging gables; altering roof slopes, adding special tops and creating free form designs. I willintroduce you to the concept of surface embellishment, using products purchased off the shelf, andones you can make. This section, together with the previous two, will serve as your primer forbuilding the projects in Section 4. They are intended to serve as a reference that you can return toduring the building process to refresh your memory, recall a tip, or find a particular part requiredfor the project you are working on. Changing Shapes and Features In Section 2, I mentioned that all the birdhouses in this book derive from one of the four Basic Boxvariations. However, I encourage you to improvise and challenge your own creative skills bystarting with one of the basic variations and using your own ingenuity. Variation 1 is a simple box composed of two equal sides attached perpendicular to two equalfronts. The two sides are cut-down for ventilation purposes. By using a dominant design element,like a prominent gable to support the roof, you can change a Basic Box so it no longer resembles itshumble beginnings. You can also alter the gable feature by cutting it in half, adding columns, or

extending legs – all using the design theme of the enlarged gable. By alternating how the sides arethe attached to the fronts, you can change the look of the Basic Box making the front wider and thegable smaller. The smaller gable can then be transformed by cutting different geometric shapeswithin the same feature – a circle, triangle, or square. In addition, by changing colors and addingpatterns to the sides of a Basic Box, what started as a common feature can become something quitedistinctive. Four Variations of the Basic Box

Variation 2, a Basic Box with an integral gable offers many opportunities for changing featuresand shapes. I use 30, 45, and 60- degree slopes because of their architectural reference andbecause they are the easiest to cut and simplest to reproduce. To add variety, I change the height orexpand the width of the box, cut some gable boxes with legs, or re-use pieces that are oftendiscarded to create a new shape.Variation 3, the special top, extends the concept of the Basic Box by employing different tops totransform a rectangular or square box into an artistic statement. One topping device I use is astandard 6-inch square copper post cap, purchased from a home improvement store. An extendedwood platform supporting a gable is another useful feature that adds a different dimension to aBasic Box. On the other hand, you can cap a box with a shape of your own choice to add varietyand interest. Variation 4 the freeform, offers endless opportunity for design. Your only limitation is yourimagination. I have developed four projects in this book to illustrate the potential of adding freeform shapes to a simple three-sided box – a bottom with two sides. You can easily duplicate theseshapes by enlarging the small-scale templates that I have provided for each specific project. TemplatesFor some of the projects, specific templates are not only useful but also necessary. I do notadvocate enlarging a template with a grid of measured squares, they are not only time consuming,but often not very accurate. The best way to have the templates enlarged is at your local copycenter. It saves the trouble and aggravation for a very small cost. Even if the enlarged template ison paper, you can carefully tape it down in just a few places, and trace it with a soft pencil. If youare so inclined, you can also cut out the paper template and glue it to a piece of cardboard. Boxes with identical fronts are best laid out by taping two pieces of wood together, drawing theproper slope or shape on the surface of one piece, and then cutting the two pieces in one operation.This method is more precise for matching shapes because one shape acts as a template for itsduplicate. For the retail market, I replicate designs; therefore, I make durable plastic templates for the mainfeatures of every birdhouse I reproduce. If you are only making one or two birdhouses, paper orcard stock templates will work just fine. However, for stencil designs, you will need standard

stenciling material or Mylar for cutting your stencils. Enhancements Enhancements are anything you add to a Basic Box. It can be functional like a predator guard orpurely decorative like a handmade molding. For purposes of this section, I have dividedenhancements into two categories – purchased and handmade. You can also modify a purchaseditem, like a piece of chair rail molding, by cutting it into special profiles. Other fabricated itemscan be used directly without modification. Handmade items are pieces you can make with the basictools as illustrated in the Tools and Materials Section. Purchased itemsPurchased items are considered standard stock items. Some stock items like wood dowels andcraft-sized pieces of poplar come in small lengths of 3 to 4 feet. Wood balls, half balls, and threadspools are best found in craft stores. Moldings, and lattice, are usually sold in 8-foot lengthshowever some stores have an "odds and ends" bin where you can purchased inexpensive cut-offs. For attaching small pieces, I recommend a construction adhesive like Liquid Nails or waterproofglue like Titebond III. For best adhesion, I suggest taping the pieces to the surface while the gluesets up. If you use thin brad-type nails, you should be able to attach small trim pieces withoutpredrilling pilot holes. You can cleanly cut moldings, small shapes, and fine pieces with a copingsaw. As part of the enhancement group of items, I have illustrated, sized, and named the variousfabricated pieces that I have used for the projects in this book. Where a specific item is used on aproject, it is so noted in the Projects Section Purchased Items Chart

Chair Rail MoldingChair rail molding is in a class by itself. As the illustrations indicate, you can cut a wide variety ofsizes and shapes from a standard chair rail molding that can be purchased in any homeimprovement store. I have indicated seven specific profiles that can be made from a typical 3-inchchair rail profile. Each of these pieces is used in one way or another on several projects depictedin this book. However, there is a downside. Chair rail molding comes in long lengths and that canget expensive, so I advise you to head back to the store's "odds and ends" bin. Another option is tostop by a construction site and ask the millwork contractor for a scrap piece. I am sure they will bevery happy to oblige. Most experienced wood workers are handy with a router and can fabricatetheir own intricate pieces, but for the novice, a router usually exceeds their skill level. The variouschair rail pieces you can cut, go a long way in enhancing a design, and they offer you a lot offreedom of choice. I have numbered several chair rail profiles from # 1 through # 7 that correspond

to their specific use on projects illustrated in this book.

This diagram illustrates various chair rail segments – 1 thru 7 –cut from a standard ChairRail Molding. Where a specific segment is used on a particular project, it is listed with one of

the above numbers in the Projects Section of this book

PVC TubingPolyvinyl chloride, abbreviated PVC, is a thermoplastic polymer widely used in the constructionindustry; it is inexpensive, durable, and easily worked. PVC tubes come in a variety of sizespurchased from your local home improvement store. I prefer the 3-1/2-inch diameter by 1/4-inchthick size for use in birdhouses because the scale is more appropriate. You can cut PVC with a finetooth handsaw, hacksaw or coping saw and any number of power tools. Regardless of the tool youuse, make sure it is fitted with the correct blade for cutting PVC. When cutting by hand, the PVCtube should be securely clamped to your work surface. Half pieces are useful for roof shapes,while 3/4-inch wide segments make an excellent choice for entry-hole predator guards. If the edgesare rough, after cutting, a little sand paper will easily smooth them out. To attach PVC to just aboutany surface, construction adhesive is your best bet. Finishing nails and glue work just as well,although I suggest you predrill small pilot holes prior to nailing.

PVC tubing cut into half-rounds and segments. Post CapsLike many of the fabricated products I recommend, post caps are readily available from your homeimprovement store in a wide range of finishes and sizes. I find the nominal 6-inch square

Nominal 6-inch copper-topped post cap copper-topped variety to be ideal for the tall and narrow Basic Box. The cap is easily fastenedwithout the use of nails. You simply squirt a bead of caulk or construction adhesive around theinner rim and push the post cap over your pre-prepared box.

Handmade Items In addition to items you can purchase, you can make severalitems. You can make predator guards for entry holes,moldings and brackets for enhancements, and a variety offinials to top off your handy work. All of these items are usedin one way or another for the projects in this book. Predator Guards for Entry HolesPredator guards are both functional and decorative. They can be made in almost any shape to addcharacter and color to a design. Based on simple blocks, all you really need is a saw, an electricdrill with a hole-saw accessory, and a 1-1/2 -inch spade bitl. Many of the projects in this bookinclude a special type of predator guard consisting of a circular wood ring with a cutoutcenter that I call the predator donut. The cut out center portion matches the standard 1-1/2-inchentry hole. What is unique about the predator donut is that it can be cut in one operation using amulti-blade hole-saw accessory attached to your hand drill. However, a multi-blade hole-saw, with interchangeable blades, is not easy to come by, and youmay have to ask your home improvement store to order one for you. The good news is they are notvery expensive. To use the hole-saw, I set one blade to the widest width, 2-1/2-inches, and thecenter blade to 1-1/2-inches to make the proper size predator donut. You can also cut the predatordonut in half and it becomes an arch. As with any handmade item, safety always comes first. It isvery important to clamp your work piece to a bench or sturdy table before starting. Drills and hole-saws have a tendency to spin a piece of wood beyond your ability to hold it, so be careful!

Making a wooden Predator Donut by cutting the inner and outer circle in one operation usinga handheld electric drill with a hole saw attachment.

Handmade Moldings It is not too difficult to make your own moldings. I have included four that you can fabricate withouttoo much trouble, using a 1/4-inch thick by 3/4-inch to 1-inch wide wood strip. With an accuratelayout and some patience, the moldings can be cut with a handsaw or the power tool of yourchoice. Moldings are somewhat delicate and require a finer grade of wood like select pine or finegrain poplar. Lattice, cut to proper width, can also be used. You will need an adequate means ofsupport when cutting moldings by hand. In addition, remember to clamp your work before you startcutting, even a hand tool can cause a serious injury. The four moldings I have illustrated, M1 through M4, are 1/4-inch thick stock, M3 is 1/2-inchthick. M1: a 1/8-inch wide saw cut is made on the top edge of the molding strip every 1/2-inch to a depthof 1/4-inch.

M2: 45-degree notches are cut every 3/4-inch, 3/8-inch deep.

M3: 45-degree notches are cut every 1/2-inch to 1/4-inch deep.

M4: a 1-inch wide strip with 1/8-inch–wide saw cuts every 3/4-inch to a depth of 1/8-inch.

Roofing MaterialsThe basic building material for roofs is 3/4-inch pine. I also use cedar lattice that I cut from cedarstock, but that requires a table saw to maintain a consistent thickness. As a substitute, you canpurchase pine lattice and paint or stain it to suit your taste. Some projects make use of metal for a roof. Contrary to what some believe, metal roofs will not"roast" young nestlings. Actually, shiny metals reflect the rays of the sun in much the same way asreflective glass in high-rise office buildings. The metals I use are 30-gauge rolled copper sheetand commercial aluminum flashing. Both materials are light gauge, can be cut with ordinaryhousehold scissors, and adhered with Liquid Nails construction adhesive. To smooth rough-cutedges medium weight sandpaper will do the job nicely. Roof materials, use singly or incombination with other materials, are listed with the specific project. Lightweight metals can bepurchased in sheets from local metal craft stores or online. HardwareOther than nails and screws, birdhouses do not require a lot of hardware. If you use hooks, hangersor hinges make sure they are suitable for exterior application. Your best bet are metals that arecorrosion resistant like stainless steel, aluminum, brass, and bronze. A less expensive substitute isthe plated variety but you are sacrificing durability. Miscellaneous ItemsTo the novice woodworker, some of the items used on the projects may seem out of theirwoodworking comfort zone. By applying the following methods, you should be able to accomplishmost of the Beyond Basic tasks using basic tools. As with all hand cutting and drilling, I cannotover emphasize that you securely clamp your work to a solid work surface before you start anycutting or drilling task. When you drill holes in a piece of wood, always place a sacrifice pieceunder the one you are drilling. Cutting a Predator Guard: If you do not own a multi blade hole-saw, you can make the predatordonut using a single blade hole-saw. First, drill the center hole with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit until

the point pierces the underside of the wood block. Do not drill all the way through. Then drill theoutside circular shape all the way through with a single 2-1/2-inch hole-saw. Then turn the circularcut out shape upside down and drill out the rest of the center portion with the spade drill.

Cutting a Predator Donut Cutting a Circular Archway: Draw a circle for the archway to the required dimension using apencil compass. With a hole saw and electric drill, cut out the circular shape. Use a coping saw tocut the two vertical lines, and then carefully cut the two horizontal lines to join the circular cutout.

Cutting a circular archway Cutting Equal Brackets: Find the center of a 3-inch square by crisscrossing two equally spacedlines. At the center, drill a hole with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit. Saw the drilled block along theoriginal equally spaced lines with a coping saw to make four equal brackets.

Cutting equal brackets Cutting an Air Hole Slot: Drill two equal holes the required distance apart with a 1/2-inch spadebit. Cut horizontal lines between the drilled holes with a jigsaw or coping saw to complete the slot.The coping saw blade can be loosened and reset within the drilled hole for cutting in a horizontaldirection.

Cutting a Pilot Hole: Layout the portion to be cut out with pencil guidelines. In one corner of yourlayout, drill a hole with a 1/2-inch spade bit. With a jigsaw or coping saw cut out the requiredspace.

Finials; See Projects for Location

4 The Projects

T

he best way to learn and improve is to challenge yourself. If something does not work outas I say it should, use your intuitive sense and devise your own solution. If you make amistake, do not be discouraged, we often learn more from our mistakes than we do from

our successes.Choose a project.Study the project that interests you, and is within your comfort zone. Reviewillustrations carefully to determine what tools and materials you will need and whatyou may have to purchase or borrow from friends. Checking the Getting Startedsection is also recommended.Assemble all your tools and materials in an orderly manner according to the sequencein which they will be used and be mindful of safety.Measure, cut, drill, and label all your major pieces prior to assembly. Remember theenhancements are considered "add-ons".

The choice is up to you

With all the projects in this book, I want to encourage you to explore and experiment.Many of the parts and pieces used as enhancements can be interchanged from one

project to another – including moldings, predator guards, and finials. I leave colorselections up to you, as I know some of you have your personal favorites, so far be itfrom me to impose my favorites.I also suggest that if something does not quite work out the way I say it should, use yourintuitive sense and devise your own unique solution. If you come up with a better wayto do something, how about letting me know about it?

Now let's build some fantastic birdhouses!

PIECES and FEATURES Like two other projects in the Variation 1 series, simple geometry plays a key role in alteringcommon features to change a design. A linear theme is chosen for this project using a squarepredator guard with a rectangular-cut gable. The linear design is complemented with a vertical rowof 1/4-inch square pieces of poplar stock attached to each side for additional contrast and texture.The box can be painted in vivid colors accented with brightly colored wood buttons and topped off

with an eye-catching finial. Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut From Gable 2 3/4 x 6-1/2 x 6-1/2 1 x 8 pineRoof 2 3/4 x 7-1/4 x 9 1 x 8 pineFront 2 3/4 x 6-1/2 x 8 1 x 8 pineBase 1 3/4 x 7-1/2 x 7-1/2 1 x 10 pineSide 2 3/4 x 5 x 6 1 x 6 pineBlocks 4 3/4 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 scrap pineTrim 2 1/4 x 1/4 x 48” stock poplarOther Items: 3-inch square predator guard cut from scrap (2), Finial # 6 (See Section 3, Beyondthe Basic Box – P.49) Instructions

To begin, layout the gables, fronts, sides, and base on the requiredsized board. Layout the finial and predator guards on scrap wood as indicated in thecutting list.

Figure 1

Cut the basic box pieces with your choice of cutting tools. Roofmiters and the base chamfers are best cut with a power tool. Cut the finial pieces,predator guards and four wood blocks from scrap.

Next, drill the entry holes as indicated with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit.Note the sides of the box are cut down for purposes of ventilation.

Figure 2

Assemble the basic box by applying glue to the edge of each sideand attaching the fronts as shown with 1-1/2-inch casing nails or trim screws. Spreadglue on the backside of the gable and attach it to the basic box. Make sure the gablealigns with the top of the box exactly as shown in the figure 2 or the roof will not fit.Repeat for the second gable.

Attach one roof section at a time with glue and 1-1/2-inch casingnails. Align each roof section with the top of the gable one section at a time. Whenadding the second section spread a bead of glue the full length of the miter and on theadjoining gable section. Press the second roof section firmly in place and fasten with1-1/2-inch casing nails.

Attach the four blocks to the underside of the base withconstruction adhesive. Now set the base under the box so the sides and front alignallowing for the drip edge on the chamfer. Drill two pilot holes through the base toengage the sides of the box and insert two 1-1/2-inch # 8 Phillips screws that can beremoved for easy maintenance. Locate the midpoint of the roof and attach the finial

with construction adhesive. Attach the predator guards with glue and 1-1/2-inch casingnails.

Cut twelve1/4-inch square pieces of poplar stock 6-inches long -six for each side. Glue and nail the pieces in place with 3/4-inch brads as indicated inthe diagram, spaced 1-inch on center starting from the seam where the front meets theside.

Countersink all visible nails and screws. Fill the holes withexterior wood filler and sand the holes smooth. Paint or stain the project according toyour personal choice.

FEATURESandPATTERNS This nest boxfollows thecommon themeof Variation 1 -change featuresand you changea design.Triangulargables, withpredator guardsto match,distinguish thisproject from theother two in theseries. Themain feature ofthis nest box isthe stenciledpattern thatappears on eachside. I suggestyou paint thepattern in

contrasting colors for variety and interest. Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut From Gable 2 3/4 x 6-1/2 x 6-1/2 1 x 8 pineFront 2 3/4 x 6-1/2 x 8 1 x 8 pineBase 1 3/4 x 7-1/2 x 7-1/2 1 x 10 pine

Side 2 3/4 x 5 x 6 1 x 6 pineBlocks 4 3/4 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 scrap pineOther Items: 2-1/2-inch square predator guard cut from scrap (2), Finial # 7; (See Section 3,Beyond the Basic Box –P49)Instructions

Layout the gables, fronts, sides, and base on the required sizedboard. Layout the finial and predator guards on scrap wood.

Cut the basic box pieces and two identical gables with your choice ofcutting tools.

.

Figure 1 Chamfers and miters are best cut with a power tool. Cut the finial pieces, predator guards and four wood blocks from

scrap. Next drill the entry holes as indicated with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit.

Note the sides of this box are cut down for ventilation. Before you assemble the box, I suggest that you divide each side

into four equal parts and paint the contrasting backgrounds as shown in the photo inpreparation for the stencil pattern that will be overlaid on the four sections.

Figure 2 Assemble the basic box by applying glue to the edge of each side

and attaching the fronts as shown with 1-1/2-inch casing nails or trim screws. Spreadglue on the backside of the gable and attach it to the basic box. Make sure the gablealigns with the top of the box exactly as shown in the diagram or the roof will not fit.Repeat for the second gable.

Attach one roof section at a time with glue and 1-1/2-inch casingnails. Align each roof section with the top of the gable, one section at a time. Whenadding the second section spread a bead of glue the full length of the miter and on theadjoining gable. Press the second roof section firmly in place and fasten with 1-1/2-inch casing nails.

Attach the four blocks to the underside of the base withconstruction adhesive. Now set the base under the box so the sides and front alignallowing for the drip edge on the chamfer. Drill two pilot holes through the base toengage the sides of the box and insert two 1-1/2-inch # 8 Phillips screws that can beremoved for easy maintenance. Locate the midpoint of the roof and attach the finialwith construction adhesive. Attach the predator guards with glue and 1-1/2-inch casingnails.

If you have not already done so, paint each 5-inch side panel. Youcan paint each square a different color, or alternate the colors in the four spaces.Whatever you decide, it is desirable that the side sections should differ in color fromthe main body of the box for variety and interest.

While the paint is drying, enlarge the panel design to the sizeindicated. Tape the design down on a flat surface and tape a piece of clear adhesivestencil material over it. (Do not remove the backing that covers the adhesive portion atthis time). With a craft knife only cut out the elliptical shapes within the squares.Carefully remove the adhesive backing from your tracing and press the cut out stencilonto the 5-inch panel surface. Smooth out the design so it adheres flush to the surface.Mask out the portions that are to receive a different contrasting color. With a 4-inchsponge roller, cover the cut out portion with paint. Make sure the roller is not overlyloaded with paint or it could run or smear. Repeat for each side panel.

Figure 3

.

FEATURESand STRIPES Circular arches,predator guardscut from circles,and a whimsicalfinial are just afew featuresthat separatethis projectfrom two othersin the series onchangingfeatures. Thebox is paintedin a richbackgroundcolor, and thenwrapped withbrightcontrastingcolor bands. Cutting List

Description Qty Size Cut From Gable 2 3/4 x 6-1/2 x 6-1/2 1 x 8 pineFront 2 3/4 x 6-1/2 x 8 1 x 8 pineBase 1 3/4 x 7-1/2 x 7-1/2 1 x 10 pineSide 2 3/4 x 5 x 6 1 x 6 pine

Blocks 4 3/4 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 scrap pineOther Items: Two 3-inch round predator guards cut from scrap, Finial # 8 (See Section 3,Beyond the Basic Box –P49) Make sure you have a good quality painter's masking tape for thisproject as recommended in (Section 1, Getting Started)Instructions

First layout the gables, fronts, sides, and base on the requiredsized board, then layout the finial and predator guards on scrap wood.

Cut the basic box pieces with your choice of cutting tools. Roofmiters and the base chamfers are best cut with a power tool. Cut the finial pieces,predator guards and four wood blocks from scrap.

Next drill the entry holes as indicated with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit.Note the sides of this box are cut down for ventilation

Figure 1 Assemble the basic box by applying glue to the edge of each side

and attaching the fronts as shown with 1-1/2-inch casing nails or trim screws. Spreadglue on the backside of the gable and attach it to the basic box. Make sure the gablealigns with the top of the box exactly as shown in the diagram or the roof will not fit.Repeat for the second gable.

Figure 2

Attach one roof section at a time with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing

nails. Align each roof section with the top of the gable one section at a time. Whenadding the second section spread a bead of glue the full length of the miter and on theadjoining gable. Press the second roof section firmly in place and fasten with 1-1/2-inch casing nails.

Attach the four blocks to the underside of the base withconstruction adhesive. Now set the base under the box so the sides and front alignallowing for the drip edge on the chamfer. Drill two pilot holes through the base toengage the sides of the box and insert two 1-1/2-inch # 8 screws that can be removedfor easy maintenance. Locate the midpoint of the roof and attach the finial withconstruction adhesive. Attach the predator guards with glue and 1-1/2-inch casingnails.

Apply paint in the colors of your choice. Let the paint dry, andthen mark off the color stripe arrangement as shown. Keep your colors bright with a lotof contrast. For the overlaid stripe pattern, tape off the segments as indicated in thediagram and apply two coats of paint in the colors of your choice.

Remember to paint dark colors over light ones for the best resultsand use painter's masking tape to achieve straight lines.

MIX andMATCH This projectmixes profilepieces cut fromchair railmolding withparts hand cutfrom standardstock. Togetherthey make amatch, onecomplementingthe other, toenrich thesurface of anordinary basicbox with anattached gable.The specialgable designorganizes theensemble,setting aframework forthe placement ofenhancements.

Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut FromRoof 2 3/4 x 10 x 10 1 x 12 pine Base 1 3/4 x 7-3/4 x 7-1/4 1 x 8 pineFront 2 3/4 x 7 x 7 1 x 8 pine

Gable 2 3/4 x 6-1/2 x 8 1 x 8 pineTrim 4 1/4 x 1/4 x 48 stock poplarTriangles 14 1/4 x 1 x 1 stock poplarDowels 8 1/2 diameter x 2-1/2 stock poplarFlat Trim (front) 2 1/4 x 5/8 x 8-1/4 stock poplarFlat Trim (side) 2 1/4 x 5/8 x 5 stock poplar Other Items: 3/4-inch PVC section cut from 3-1/2-inch diameter tube; Chair rail pieces #2, 3, and6 and Finial # 11 (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box –P49) Instructions

Lay out the basic box pieces, gables, roof sections and base using acarpenter’s combination square or a metal ruler and 45-degree drafting triangle.

Cut all the basic box pieces with the cutting tools of your choice.Miters and chamfers are best cut with power tools; however, you could use a butt jointfor the roof in lieu of a miter.

Figure 1 Assemble the box. Spread glue on the edges of the sides, and attach

the fronts as shown with 1-1/2-inch casing nails. In the illustration, note the specificalignment of the gable to the box. This alignment is critical to the placement of theenhancement pieces. Spread glue on the backside of the gable and attach it to the boxwith 1-1/2-inch casing nails, respecting the exact location indicated. Repeat for thesecond gable.

Figure 2

Now set the roof in two sections. Apply glue to the gable slopes and

make sure the roof overhangs the front face of the gable by 1- inch. Attach each sectionwith 1-1/2-inch casing nails making a tight butt or miter joint at the peak. At this pointyou can add the four 1-1/4-inch blocks to the base with construction adhesive and setthe base aside for now.

Cut two triangles (A) 1-inch by 2-inches wide from 1/4-inch poplar forthe gable peak. Cut twelve 1-inch-by-1-inch triangles (B), six to a gable from 1/4-inchpoplar. Following the pattern shown, align and glue the triangles in place withconstruction adhesive. Add the 1-1/4-inch half ball (C) directly under triangle (A),also with construction adhesive

Refer to Section 3, and cut all your chair rail pieces (D, E and H) as

indicated and glue in place. Cut the 3/4-inch PVC section as explained in Section 3and attach it with construction adhesive. Finish the other front exactly the same waybefore proceeding further.

Cut 1/4-inch flat trim (G) to the size indicated in the cutting list and gluein place. Cut 1/2-inch dowels (F), four for each front to the size indicated in the cuttinglist and glue in place as shown with a 1/8-inch space between each set of twodowels.

Align the base with the sides and drill a pilot hole in each edge of theaccess base to engage it with the sides. These holes are for the 1-1/2-inch #8 Phillips-head screws that are easily removed for maintenance. Do not glue the access base tothe sides. Add the 1/4-inch square trim to the ends of the roof as indicated. Refer toSection 3 for finial #11.

Countersink all exposed nails and fill the holes with exterior wood filler.Sand the holes smooth. Paint all exposed surfaces with your choice of colors

Lattice House In this project, the main design element is the gable; however, the roof can take on a personality ofits own by adding lattice strips. This design is one in a series of three cedar box birdhouses basedon Variation 1, the simple box. For the beginner, it is not too difficult and a good one to start with.

Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut FromGable 2 1 x 10-1/2 x14 1 x12 pineRoof 2 1/2 x 10-1/2 x 12 1/2 x 12 trim boardSide 2 1 x 6 x 6-1/2 1 x 8 cedarFront 2 1 x 5 x 8 1 x 6 cedarLattice Strips 22 1/4 x 1-1/2 x 12 purchasedBase 1 1 x 6-1/2 x 6-1/2 1 x8 cedarBlocks 4 1 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 scrap cedarOther Items: Predator Guard: 3/4-inch segment cut from 3-1/2-inch diameter PVC tube, Finial #9 (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box –P49) Instructions

Cut the basic cedar box pieces, with the saw of your choice, to the size indicated inFigure 1 and the cutting list. After the fronts are cut it is best to drill the 1-1/2-inchentry holes with a spade bit prior assembly.

Figure 1To assemble the box, use exterior waterproof glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails or trimscrews. Make sure the sides are fastened to the fronts as shown in the illustration or thegables will not fit properly. Fasten the gables to the cedar box with casing nails andglue.Now cut the roof pieces. If you purchased 12-inch wide trim board just cut two 9-3/4-inch by 12-inch pieces. The illustration indicates a mitered roof joint, but if you preferthe easier butt joint, cut one roof section 1/2-inch less, which is the trim boardthickness.Attach the roof one section at a time. Center one of the roof pieces over box- gable

assembly and fasten it to the gable with glue and 1-1/2-inch, casing nails. Align thesecond roof section with the first one then glue and nail it in place. The 12-inch pieceis measured from front to back.Over the gable archway, just above the entry hole, attach a 3/4"-inch segment of PVCas a predator guard. Attach the PVC using construction adhesive.Cut the access base to the size shown. Cut four 1-1/4-inch square base blocks andattach them to the bottom of the base with construction adhesive.Drill a pilot hole at each edge of the access base to correspond with the cedar boxabove. The holes are for the screw attachment of the base to the box that may beremoved for routine maintenance. Temporarily attach the base with the two #8, 1-1/2-inch long zinc-coated Phillips-head screws.Attach the precut lattice strips with glue and 3/4-inch brads starting at the lower end ofthe roof overlapping each lat 1/2-inch as you progress upward to the peak. If you haveaccess to a table saw, you can cut your own lattice out of cedar stock.

Figure 2

As a final touch, cut finial #9 and attach it to the roof at the center point with 1-1/2-inchnails or construction adhesive. Add three 1-inch painted wood buttons on each front asshown to complete the design, or an enhancement of your choice.

Figure 3

LATTICE and BRACKETS

Cedar or pine lattice and brackets distinguish this house from the other two in the Variation 1 cedarbox series. The bracket is an architectural feature that has witnessed a comeback in buildingdesign. The lattice is well suited to the rustic character and scale of a birdhouse. You can cut yourown lattice or purchase it from a home improvement store.

Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut From Gable 2 1 x 11-1/4 x 12 1 x 12 pineRoof 2 1/2 x 12 x 12-1/4 1 x 12 trim boardSide 2 1 x 6 x 6-1/2 1 x 8 cedarBase 1 1 x 6-1/2 x 6-1/2 1 x 8 cedarFront 2 1 x 6 x 8 1 x 6 cedarBlocks 4 1 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 scrap cedarBrackets 4 1 x 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 scrap pine or cedarOther Items: Trim, 1/2-inch wide by 1/4-inch thick cedar; predator donut, Finial # 10 andbrackets (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box –P49) Lattice, cut from cedar stock or purchased

Instructions

Layout and cut the basic cedar box pieces and gables according tothe illustrations shown below with the saw of your choice, and then drill the 1-1/2-inch entry holes with a spade bit.

To assemble the box, use exterior waterproof glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails or trimscrews. Make sure the sides are fastened to the fronts as shown in the illustration, orthe gables will not fit.Three inches up from the bottom of the cedar box is the line where the gable is to beattached. By setting the box and gable upright on a flat surface, the two pieces willself-align. Make sure the gable is centered over the entry hole. Add glue to the back ofthe gable and attach it to the cedar box with 1-1/2-inch casing nails.The roof consists of two parts, the support for the wood lattice and the lattice itself.For the support roof cut two pieces 12-1/4-inches by 12-inches from the12-inch widetrim board. On the 12-inch end cut a 45-degree miter on each board or use a butt joint.Attach one roof piece at a time. Center the first piece on the gable /box assembly. Glueand nail the roof piece to the pine gable using 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Align the secondpiece with the first and attach it to the gable. You now have a solid base for attachingthe wood lattice.You can purchase readymade wood lattice in 8-foot lengths at your local homeimprovement store and stain it with a semi-transparent cedar stain. If you own a tablesaw you can fabricate your own lattice from cedar stock.The trim shown on the front is cut from cedar scrap. Cut a few lengths 1/2-inch wide by1/4-inch thick and least 9-inches long. Measure the strips to fit and cut the requiredangle cuts with a coping saw. Attach the cedar trim strips to the gable with glue and3/4-inch brads.To complete the assembly, cut the access base to the dimensions shown in theillustration. Cut four 1-1/4-inch square blocks and fasten them to the base with

construction adhesive. Drill two pilot holes in the base for the screw connection forfastening the base to the nest box. For the screw attachment use the two #8, 1-1/2-inchzinc-coated Phillips-head screws. The screws can easily be removed for routinemaintenance.At the center point of the roof, attach finial # 10 with construction adhesive. Paint orstain the finished birdhouse to suit your taste. I suggest you coat all the exposed cedar,with an exterior clear sealer to accentuate the wood's natural color.

Assembly Diagram

BoardandBattenShingleHouse Thename ofthishousederivesfrom theroofdesign,madefromcrude,cedarshinglesnormallyused aslevelingshims. Itis theonlyprojectin this

book that has a roosting shelf and the last in a series of three that uses same basic cedar box.However, this design is not as simple as the other two designs and relies on accurate measurementsand a good deal of patience.Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut FromGable 2 1 x 7-1/2 x 15 1 x 10 pineRoof (base) 2 1/2 x 11-1/4 x 12 1/2 x 12 trim board

Roosting Shelf 1 1 x 7-3/4 x 15-1/2 1 x 10 cedarSide 2 1 x 6 x 6-1/2 1 x 8 cedarBase 1 1 x 6-1/2 x 6-1/2 1 x 8 cedarFront 2 1 x 5 x 8 1 x 6 cedarBlocks 4 1 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 scrap cedarOther Items: purchased cedar shims for roof shingles, 4 feet of 1/2-inch wood dowel, PVC predator guard and Finial # 9 (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box –P49) . Instructions

Layout and cut the basic cedar box pieces and gables according to the illustrationsshown below with the saw of your choice and drill the 1-1/2-inch entry holes with aspade bit.

Figure 1

To assemble the box, use exterior waterproof glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails or trimscrews. Make sure the sides are fastened to the fronts as shown in the illustration or thegables will not fit.Three inches up from the bottom of the cedar box is the line where the gable is to beattached. It is critical that the gable be attached at this line and the top of the box andnot protrude beyond the slope of the gable, if it does the roof will not fit properly.Fasten the gables to the cedar box with glue and casing nails.The next step is to cut the required piece for the roosting shelf. There cannot be anymistakes, so if you have a table saw now would be the time to use it. If not, use a jigsaw with a properly clamped guide.

Refer to the roosting shelf diagram below for the proper location of the 1/2-inchdowel holes, center cutout, and dimensions.

Figure 2

To attach the gable/box assembly to the roosting shelf, spread glue on the underside ofthe cedar box and place it directly over the 5-inch square hole. From the underside ofthe roosting shelf, permanently screw the cedar box to the shelf with 1-1/2-inch trimscrews.Now here is a neat trick. Instead of trying to cut each dowel to the exact length, it iseasier to insert the dowels from the bottom through the 1/2-inch pre-drilled holes andcut off any excess. Remember to allow for the thickness of the roosting shelf. I alsosuggest you paint the dowels before you insert them and when they are half way up, adda bead of glue to each top. Push the dowel up firmly against the underside of the gableand make sure it is straight.Now turn your attention to the roof. The roof consists of two parts; the support for theshingles, made with 12-inch trim board, and the shingles themselves. Start by cuttingtwo pieces 11-1/4-inches by 12-inches from the 12-inch wide trim board. Cut a 45-degree miter on the short end of each roof piece for joining the boards at the top of thegable. Attach one trim board at a time to the pine gable using glue and 1-1/2-inchcasing nails.

Completed Board and Batten Shingle House mounted on a 4" x 4" post.

With the support roof in place, you are ready to add the shingles. From the bundle ofrough shingles, select those that have a similar profile with approximately the sametapered thickness. You will need eight equal sections to cover the two roof surfaces.Cut the shingles into 3-inch wide by 11-1/2-inch long sections. The thickest part of thetaper should align with the peak of the gable. Cut the thicker tapered end of the shingleat a 45-degree angle for a snug fit at the peak.Glue and nail each 3-inch shingle section, side by side, across the 12-inch width of theroof using 5/8-inch brads. From your shingle bundle select one good piece, and cut itinto 1/2-inch wide strips 12-inches long. You will need six strips. Miter the thinnerend of the 1/2-inch strip at a 45-degree angle where it meets the gable peak. Glue andnail the strips over the seams of the shingles to create a board and batten effect.

Trim out the front edge of the gable with shingle strips 1/2-inch wide by 1/4-inch thickand fasten them to the gable with glue and1/2-inch brads. Complete the roof byattaching the #9 finial over

the center batten strip with construction adhesive. To complete the assembly, cut the removable base to the dimensions

shown in the illustration. Add the four 1-1/4-inch square blocks to the base withconstruction adhesive. Drill two pilot holes in the base to correspond to the cedar boxabove for the #8, 1-1/2-inch zinc-coated Phillips -head screws for easy removal androutine maintenance. Referring to the project photo, attach the 3/4-inch PVCpredator guard segment over the entry hole with construction adhesive. Complete thetrim on the gable front by attaching 1/4-inch square wood stock from the predatorguard, around the perimeter of the archway and edge of the gable. Brush on two coatsof exterior clear sealer to accentuate the natural color of the cedar parts. Paint thecolumns and gable in a contrasting color, preferably white.

Assembly Diagram

YOURCHOICE I call thisproject yourchoice. You areencouraged tocreate your owndesign on thetwo fronts usingrepetitiveshapes.Browsing artand craft shops,you can find anarray of woodparts to createyour ownpersonal paneldesign, toyparts, gamepieces, stars,hearts, nauticalshapes, orchoose from avast array ofready-madewooden items.

Better yet, make your own unique shapes. Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut From Roof 2 3/4 x 7-1/2 x 9-1/4 1 x 10 pineBase 1 3/4 x 7-3/4 x 7-3/4 1 x 10 pine

Front 2 3/4 x 6-1/2 x 10-1/2 1 x 8 pineSide 2 3/4 x 5 x 7-1/4 1 x 8 pineTrim Bar 2 1/2 x 5/8 x 9 scrap pineBlocks 4 3/4 x1-1/4 square scrap pineL-shape Trim 16 1/2 x 1-3/4 square 16” long strip poplarPredator Guard 2 3/4 x 3 x 4 scrap pineOther Items: Finial # 12 (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box –P49) Instructions

Layout the project with a carpenter's square. Cut all pieces with the saw of yourchoice. If you use a jigsaw, the cutting will be easier. Drill entry holes in each frontwith a 1-1/2-inch spade bit, and the air holes in the side pieces with a 1/2-inch bradpoint bit as shown below.

Assemble the box by fastening the fronts to the sides as indicated using glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.Now assemble the roof, one section at a time with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.The roof is 9-1/4-inches long, which allows for a 1-3/8" overhang on each front.Repeat for the second roof section using glue at the peak joint and glue on the slopedgables; attach with 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Make a tight joint at the peak using a mitercut or a butt joint.Over each entry hole, attach the predator guard with glue, and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.Directly below the predator guard, fasten the trim bar so it touches the sloped roof onboth sides. Use glue and 1-inch brads.The panel left beneath the trim bar is for the illustrated one-shape pattern or one of

your choice. From scrap wood, cut the four 1-1/4-inch blocks and attach them to thebottom of the 7-3/4-inch square base with construction adhesive.Position the base beneath the box so it corresponds to the sides. Turn the box upsidedown and drill pilot holes through the base to engage the sides. Temporarily attach thebase with the two 1-1/2-inch #8 Phillips-head screws. The base should remainremovable for maintenance. Do not glue it to the sides.Now it is “Your Choice” . You can fabricate the L-shaped pieces as illustratedfrom1/2-inch thick poplar – 8 pieces for each front. On the other hand, you can browseart and craft stores and purchase pieces to suit your taste.If you decide on ready-made pieces, keep it simple, the challenge is to create a designwith just one shape.Whatever you decide, I suggest that you paint the blank space first and then add thepieces with construction adhesive. It would be too difficult to paint around severalsmall pieces unless you have a "well-trained" hand that can accomplish the task. Addthe finial and paint the birdhouse in contrasting colors using paint like BEHR PremiumPlus Ultra interior/exterior paint and primer.

Assembly Diagram

ROOSTINGBOX Roosting boxesare as crucial tobird’s survivalin inclementweather, as anest box isduring themating season.A birdhouseoffers someprotection, butdue to itslimited size,lack of interiorperches, andholes forventilation, theyare unsuitable.A roosting boxonly requiresone entry hole,located at floorlevel, to allowheat to rise andstay within the

box. Equipped with staggered interior perches more birds can be accommodated, allowing them tocling together to share body heat. Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut From Front 1 3/4 x 11 x 11-1/4 1 x 12 pine

Back 1 3/4 x 11 x 11-1/4 1 x 12 pineSide 2 3/4 x 6-3/4 x 10-1/2 1 x 8 pineBase/Floor 1 3/4 x 7-3/4 x 11 1 x 8 pineRoof 2 3/4 x 9-1/2 x 11-1/4 1 x 12 pineMounting Brackets 2 3/4 x 2 x 3-1/2 scrap pineDowel Rod 1 1/2 x 12 stock poplarDowels 5 1/4 x 4-3/4 stock poplarTrim Block 1 3/4 x 2-1/2 square scrap pineTrim Block 1 3/4 x 3 square scrap pineOther Items: Finial # 5 (Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box – P49) ; two 11-1/4-inch stainlesssteel "piano" hinges. Instruction

Using a carpenter’s combination square, layout the front, back,base/floor and sides as indicated.

Figure 1 You can cut all the basic box pieces with a handsaw or jigsaw

including the 45-degree cuts. The small curve shown at the front end of the sidepiecescan be sanded or cut to shape. For the roof sections cut a 45-degree miter in each, andthen strike a line, lengthwise 4-inches down from the miter, and cut roof sections intotwo pieces along the 4-inch line. This is where the hinged flap occurs.

Referring to figure 3, drill the entry hole as indicated 1-1/2-inchesfrom the bottom of the front piece. Cut out the crosshatched portion with a jig saw tocomplete the entry hole.

Finish cutting the larger trim pieces - the 2-12-inch and 3-inchsquare trim blocks, the mounting brackets and the hole guard. For the hole guard youwill need a pencil compass for the layout. Drill and cut the entry hole as you did in the

front piece. The two openings should match exactly. Before you assemble the roosting box, pay attention to laying out the

interior wall with the roosting perches. Drill 1/4-inch holes at the locations indicatedfor the perches. Drill the holes about 3/8 of an inch deep. Insert glue in each hole andfirmly seat the five 1/4-inch round x 4-3/4-inch long dowels. From a 6-inch squarepiece of window screen, cut a 45-degree triangle to fit between the perches for thebirds to climb on. Attach the screen with ordinary metal staples.

Refer back to the basic box diagram below and note how the sidesare to be flush with the back piece, which allows the sides to extend beyond the frontface. Also, note that the roofline extends 3/4-inch beyond the back. You can drill the3/8-inch holes in the sides for the dowel bar now or after assembly.

Figure 2 Now attach the sides by aligning their miter edge with the slope of

the gables so they form a continuous slope. Remember, the sides are to be flush withthe back and will extend beyond the base at the front. This alignment will allow thesides to extend beyond the base/floor. Apply glue to the vertical edge of the gables andtwo sides of the base. With 1-1/2-inch trim screws attach the pieces together. Thatshould complete the basic box as illustrated in the basic box diagram.

Cut the continuous hinges to fit the length of the roof flap with ametal cutting blade and jigsaw. Attach the hinge to the flap making sure the knuckle ofthe hinge is above the edge of the wood flap or it will bind. Screws are provided withthe hinge when purchased. Now attach the other side of the hinge to the fixed section ofroof. Check the spacing of the knuckle. Repeat for the second flap.

Drill a pilot hole in each movable flap so it engages the side. Thisis for the # 8 screw that temporarily closes the flap. Now widen the hole in the flaps toreceive the 3/8-inch screw button cap to prevent rust. With the roof assembled, attachthe 3-inch square block directly under the peak with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.Attach the 2-1/2-inch block over the 3-inch one as indicated, and complete theassembly by fastening the 1-1/4-inch half ball with glue and a 1-inch brad.

Over the entry hole, attach the hole guard with glue and 1-1/2-inchcasing nails. If you did not drill the 3/8-inch holes in each end of the sides for the 3/8-inch perch dowel do it now. Tap the dowel all the way through both holes until itreaches the outer end of the opposite side. Cut off any excess.Attach the brackets to the underside of the floor with glue and screws drilled at anangle to the floor. Make sure you leave at least 3-1/2-inches between the brackets formounting on a 4-inch square post

Construct finial #5 and attach it at the midpoint of the roof withconstruction adhesive.

Paint the roosting box in contrasting colors of your choice,preferably more muted with colorful accents to blend with the natural environment.

Figure 3

Assembled roosting box prior to final painting

STICKSand

BLOCKS Sticks and blocks are used to create a design theme that embellishes a basic 30-degree gabled box.The sticks are 1/4-inch square ready-made poplar strips purchased from a home improvementstore. The feet, added to the legs, are 1-inch wooden thread spools. Cutting List

Description Qty Size Cut FromFront 2 3/4 x 6-1/2 x 15-1/2 1 x 8 pineSide 2 3/4 x 6-1/2 x 11 1 x 8 pineBase 1 3/4 x 6 x 6-1/2 1 x 8 pineRoof 2 3/4 x 4 x 8 1 x 6 pineAir Hole Covers 6 1/4 x 1-1/4 Sq. 1/4 thick poplar (A)Trim 3 1/4 x 1/4 x 36 1/4-inch poplar strips (C)Other Items: Finial #2 –P49; Two, 2-1/2-inch square entry hole predator guards (B). Instructions

For your layout, follow the dimensions given in the cutting list andthose indicated below.

Figure 1 You will note from the previous illustration that the two fronts have

identical dimensions but the entry hole and trim are reversed so both holes line up.This is intended, so the front trim bands continue around one side only. There are nobands on the opposite side but the air holes and covers are identical

Layout the required pieces with a carpenter’s combination squareand 30-degree drafting triangle. Do not layout the 1/4-inch trim at this time. Layout theair hole covers in a row on one piece of 1/4-inch poplar and drill the air holes with a1/2-inch bit before you cut the squares to size. Cut the fronts and sides with your toolof choice. Cut, and drill the predator guards at this time. Use a 1-1/2-inch spade bit to

drill your entry hole. Leave the finial for later. Also do not cut the bands of 1/4-inchsquare trim until later; it is best to custom cut these pieces as you fit them

Assemble the box by gluing one front to the two sides. Nail thepieces together with 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Glue and nail the second front, makingsure the two entry holes are directly opposite one another. With your carpenter'ssquare, make sure the corners are square; otherwise, the roof will be out of line.

Refer to the roof-cutting diagram for the four 30-degree miter cutsrequired to join roof to the gabled box. If you own a table saw I suggest you use it. Youcan make these cuts with a jigsaw from a piece of wood larger than required if you canclamp it to a solid work surface. Attach the roof pieces to the gable and sides with glueand 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Attach one section at a time. After the box is assembled,center the base under the sides and drill two pilot holes for temporarily attaching thebase to the sides with 1-1/2-inch #8 Phillips-head screws. This screw connectionallows for removal of the base for maintenance

Fasten the air hole covers over the 1/2-inch holes with glue and3/4-inch brads. Attach the entry hole guards with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.With your carpenter’s combination square, make sure the guards are straight and level,then pencil in the location of the 1/4-inch square trim pieces. Note the trimdimensions work off the square predator block.

Paint the surface in contrasting colors before adding the 1/4-inchtrim and let your pencil layout show through for attaching the trim. Glue the trim inplace and carefully fasten with thin 3/4-inch brads. Center finial # 2 at the midpoint ofthe roof and attach with construction adhesive. Attach the wooden thread spools to thelegs with glue and countersunk screws.

Assembly Diagram

PADDLE HOUSE Small but versatile; that pretty much describes the paddle house. With its paddle-type back it canbe attached to a tree, screwed to the side of the house, or surface- mounted to a wood post. It alsofeatures a removable base for mounting it to the top of a wood, metal, or PVC post. The paddlehouse is a variation of a 30-degree gable house, but in this case, it features two gables one in frontof the other. The inner gable is part of the basic box; the outer gable is an enhancement, adding a

nice design touch to the whole assembly. This nesting box is easy to build, but it does take a bit ofconcentration to make sure all the pieces are properly cut to fit. Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut FromRoof 2 3/4 x 7-1/4” x 7-3/8” 1 x 8 pine Front 1 3/4 x 5-1/2” x 12-1/4” 1 x 6 pine Back 1 3/4 x 5-1/2” x 12-3/4” 1 x 6 pine Side 2 3/4 x 4-1/2” x 7-1/2” 1 x 6 pine Base 1 3/4 x 5-1/4” x 4-1/2” 1 x 6 pine Gable 1 3/4 x 3-1/2” x 12” 1 x 4 pine Embellishment 1 1/4 square x 10-1/2” stock poplar InstructionsCarefully layout the basic box pieces according to the dimensions listed in Figure 1 and Figure 2.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Cut the required pieces with your tool of choice. Straight crosscuts can be made with ahandsaw; miters are best achieved with a jigsaw. Drill the entry hole as indicated witha 1-1/2-inch spade bit, and the air holes with a 1/2-inch spade bit. Attach the front tothe sides, with glue, and 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Make sure the bevel of the sides alignwith the slope of the front gable so the roof fits properly. To attach the back lay thefront face down on a flat surface. Spread glue on the ends of the two sides. Nail theback to each side with 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Refer to the photo to make sure youleave a 3/4-inch space for the base to fit under the box.Fasten the front outer gable to the box with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Make surethe two gables align as indicated in the Assembly Diagram. Attach the back to the sidesfrom behind with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.Attach one roof section at a time making sure the miter is directly in line with the peak.Fasten each roof section to the side, gables, and back with glue and 1-1/2-inch casingnails. For the gable trim, you will need a section of cove molding at least 15-incheslong. Miter two equal length pieces so they join at the peak. Glue and nail each piecewith 3/4-inch brads to the end of the gable, flush with the roof edge.Cut seven, 1-1/2-inch pieces of 1/4-inch square stock for the front. Attach the smallpieces starting 1/2-inch in from the front edge and1-1/8-inch down from the bottom ofthe outer gable. Glue each piece to the surface with construction adhesive; allowing a3/8-inch space between.Set the base under the box so it corresponds with the sides. Drill two pilot holes in thebase to engage the sides. These holes are for the 1-1/2-inch #8 Phillips-head screws toallow the base to be detached for maintenance. Paint the project in the colors of your

choice.

Assembly Diagram

RECYCLEDTRIANGLES This project isanother in theintegral gableseries.However, indesigning thisproject I wasinterested inrecycling theleft overtriangles cutfrom the gables,so I decided touse them as abasis for a newform, taking thebasic box toanother level.This projectappears morecomplex tobuild than it is;it just takes alittle more

patience and concentration. Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut FromFront 2 3/4 x 7-1/4 x 14-1/4 1 x 8 pineSide 2 3/4 x 5-3/4 x 6 1 x 8 pineRoof 2 3/4 x 7-1/4 x 14-1/2 1 x 8 pine

Base 1 3/4 x 5-3/4 x 7 1 x 8 pine Other Items: Refer to Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box.

(A) Half round molding 8-inches long (B) Cove molding 5 feet long (C) Trim 1/4 x 1/4 x 48-inches stock poplar (D) 4 pieces of screen molding 4-1/2–inches long(E) 2 pieces of half rounds 4-inches each (F) 4 pieces of # 4 chair rail(G) M3 handmade molding12-inches long (H) 4 pieces of #1 chair rail

Figure 1InstructionsLayout the required pieces for the 60-degree gable box according to the dimensions in the abovediagram using a carpenter's square and a 60-degree drafting triangle.

With your tool of choice carefully cut the gables to achieve clean straight edgesespecially on the triangular pieces that you want to recycle. Drill the entry holes asindicated, with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit and the side air holes with a 1/2-inch spade bit.This is a two-front box with both fronts identical. Assemble the basic box with glueand 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Cut 3/4-inch off the bottom of each recycled trianglemaking the lengths 5-1/2-inches, and then attach the recycled triangles - gable pieces -with glue as shown in Figure 2. Secure the triangles to each side with a 1-1/2-inch trimhead screw located 1-1/2-inches from the top of the triangle.The peak of the roof joint on this project is a bit tricky. It is a "flat miter" cut to receivethe flat side of a half-round piece as shown in the following illustration.

Cutting the Flat Miter

Cutone roof section with a 30-degree miter and attach it to the gable. Align the second roofsection with the first and cut off the excess to create a flat surface. To achieve the flatmiter, cut the left leg, shown in C above, straight across.

Make sure the roof sections fit properly before attaching them to the gables. Attach oneroof section at a time with glue and 1-1/2-ich casing nails. Glue and nail the secondsection. The roof should be flush with the front face of each gable.Position the base at the bottom of the box so it corresponds with the sides. Drill a pilothole in each edge of the base so it engages the sides. These holes are for the 1-1/2-inch# 8 Phillips screws that attach the removal base to the box for easy maintenance. Nowadd the finial.Add 1-inch wood balls to each leg with glue and 1-1/12-inch casing nails driventhrough predrilled holes. Now it is time to add the enhancements by following theexploded illustration, figure 2, and the letter key for the items to be added.

Figure 2

SPONGE andSTENCIL This designcombinessponge paintingwith stencilingas part of thespecial topseries inVariation 3.This is a verysimple projectwith all thebasic pieceslaid out on onesize board. Thebox is easy toassemble, andcrowned withan off-the-shelfcopper postcap. The funpart is addingtexture with asponge, andtrying your hand

at stenciling using the pattern provided. With a little help from mom or dad, this is a great projectfor kids on a rainy weekend. Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut From Front 2 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 13-1/2 1 x 6 pine

Side 2 3/4 x 4-1/8 x 9-1/2 1 x 6 pineBase 1 3/4 x 4 x 5-1/4 1 x 6 pineCopper Post Cap 1 8 x 8 outside dimension purchasedWooden Balls 4 1-inch round purchasedOther Items: Provided stencil pattern. Instructions

Layout the pieces for the basic box to the dimensions indicated in the illustration belowusing a carpenter's square. Cut the pieces with your tool of choice. Following thedimensions as shown, drill an entry hole in each front with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit. Thisbox is a two- front box with both fronts identical. Attach the two fronts to the sidesusing glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.

Figure 1

For the sponge painting technique, apply a base coat of BEHR Premium Plus Ultrainterior/exterior paint with a brush or 4-inch sponge roller in the color of your choice;a medium shade of blue/green works well. Let the base coat dry thoroughly.Pour about two ounces of metallic copper glaze onto a plastic plate - the glaze can bepurchased from a home improvement store in the paint department. Wet a sea spongewith water and squeeze it out so it is moist but not dripping. Dip the sponge into theglaze, loading it evenly. Then lightly dab it on a paper towel to remove any excesspaint.Apply the glaze by dabbing in a random fashion to avoid a static, repetitive look,turning the sponge from time to time. Dab some areas a bit more firmly. Cover theentire surface of the box and let it dry thoroughly before completing the remaining

steps. Stenciling

1. Enlarge the stencil pattern to the size indicated. Place the enlargement on a level

cutting mat and tape a piece of clear stenciling plastic securely over the design.2. Carefully cut the design with a craft-type knife with a sharp pointed blade.3. Spray the backside of the cut stencil with stencil adhesive for a flat, even contact

and adhere it to the box so it laps over the front as illustrated.4. Darken the paint used for the box and place a shallow amount in a bowl or on a

plate. Dip a small sponge paint roller in the paint, making sure to test the amountof paint on the roller to avoid spreading and smearing. Roll over the stencil in one,even, smooth stroke.

Figure 2When the stencil is completely dry, attach the copper post cap by squirting a bead ofcaulk, or construction adhesive, around the inner rim of the post cap. Position the capover the box and press down firmly until it stops. If pressed evenly, the cap shouldself-align.

Cut two, 2-1/2” predator donuts using the method illustrated inSection 3, Beyond the Basic Box. Paint the predator guards and attach to both frontswith construction adhesive.Cut the base to the size indicated. Position the base underneath the box to correspond

with the sides. Drill two pilot holes to engage the base and the box. Temporarily insertthe two 1-1/2-inch Phillips-head screws. Do not permanently attach the base. Thescrew connection allows for removal of the base for maintenance.

Assembly Diagram

/PINSTRIPES This project is similar to the Sponge and Stencil project. However, it uses more trim pieces andfeatures a paint combing technique with metallic glaze. The glaze and "paint comb" may bepurchased from a home improvement store or paint store. The paint comb has notched edges. Avariety of lines, cross hatching, swirls or other textures are possible, but for this project, we willuse traditional pinstripes.

Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut FromFront 2 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 13-1/2 1 x 6 pineSide 2 3/4 x 4-1/8 x 11-1/2 1 x 6 pineBase 1 3/4 x 4 x 5-1/4 1 x 6 pineCopper Post Cap 1 8 x 8 Square purchasedTrim 2 1/4 x 3/4 x 8 poplarWooden Balls 4 1-inch round purchased Other Items: Two, 3/4-inch sections of 3-1/2-inch diameter PVC tube cut in halves.Predator Guard: Two 2-1/2-inch predator donuts (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box) Instructions

Layout the pieces for the basic box to the dimensions indicated in the illustrationbelow using a carpenter's square. Cut the pieces with your tool of choice and drill anentry hole in each front with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit. Attach the two fronts to the sideswith glue and 1-1/2-inch nails.

Figure 1

Drill the air slots with a 1/2-inch spade bit at each end of the slot and cut the remainderof the slot with a jigsaw. For the pinstripe glaze, apply a base coat of bright blue BEHR Premium Plus Ultrainterior/exterior paint with a brush or a 4-inch sponge roller. Cover the four surfaces ofthe box and let the base coat dry thoroughly.Pour about two ounces of metallic copper glaze onto a plastic plate – the glaze can be

purchased from a home improvement store. Apply the metallic glaze over base coatwith a 4-inch roller or brush. Do not overload the brush or roller or the glaze will run.Do one side at a time. Using a paint comb, with medium sized notches, comb from topto bottom in one consistent stroke. To maintain an even pinstripe effect, start the nextdownward stroke using the last stripe line as your guide.When the glaze is completely dry, attach the copper post cap by squirting a bead ofcaulk, or construction adhesive, around the inner rim of the post cap. Position the capover the box and press down firmly until it stops. If pressed evenly, the cap shouldself-alignCut the two predator donuts and the 3/4-inch PVC sections. Cut two lengths of woodstock 1/4-inch thick x 3/4-inch deep x 9-inches long for the front vertical trim. Youwill need to cut these pieces exactly, for a custom fit prior to fastening.Drill pilot holes in all the wood balls and attach them to the legs with glue and 1-1/2"casing nails. Paint the predator donuts, wood balls, post cap rim, and PVC sections asshown in a color of your choice before attaching them to the surface with constructionadhesive. Do likewise with the vertical wood strips that are best placed just after youfasten the predator donut.

Cut the base to the size indicated. Position the base underneath the box to correspondwith the sides. Drill two pilot holes to engage the base and the box. Temporarily insertthe two 1-1/2-inch Phillips-head screws. Do not permanently attach the base. Thescrew connection allows for removal of the base for maintenance.

Assembly Diagram

THREE forOne This box issized for theEastern andWesternScreech Owl,the NorthernFlicker andAmericanKestrel.However, if youbuild solely toattract screechowls you maynever see one,because theirnocturnalactivity oftenstarts 20 to 30minutes aftersunset. Screechowls are petitecreatures thatdo not screechunless agitated,so they may be

living in your neighborhood unnoticed. When setting out an owl box, place 2 to 3 inches of driedleaves or pine wood shavings in the bottom of the box. Screech Owls do not gather nestingmaterials. This is a single-front box with a front drop down flap for cleaning and maintenance. Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut From

Side 2 3/4 x 11-1/4 x 19 1 x 12 pine Roof 2 3/4 x 7-1/8 x 11-1/4 1 x 12 pine Plateau Top 1 3/4 x 4 x 11-1/4 1 x 12 pine Front & Back 2 3/4 x 9-1/4 x 22-1/4 1 x 10 pine Base / Floor 1 3/4 x 9-1/4 x 10-1/2 1 x 10 pine Half Circle 1 1/4 x 5 x 9-1/4 1/4-inch flat stock poplarEntry Hole Guard 1 3/4 x 4-3/4 x 4-3/4 scrap pine Other Items: 2-1/4-inch half rounds and M1 molding (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box) Instructions

Layout sides, base/floor, front and back according to the figure 1 and the cutting list.For the front and back, you will require a 30-60-degree drafting triangle and carpenterssquare. Cut the pieces with the tool of your choice.

Figure 1

Continue laying out and cutting the roof, plateau top, entry holeguard and handmade molding – M1. (Do not assemble at this point). The M1 Trim isa handmade trim you can fabricate. See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box.

For the 3-inch entry hole in the front panel, drill a starter hole for

your jigsaw, and cut the circle following the outline made with a pencil compass. Cut amatching hole in the 4-3/4-inch square entry hole guard the same way you cut the entry

hole, only make sure the piece is clamped to a solid surface. Now draw a horizontalline across the front piece 9-1/4-inches up from its bottom. Cut the front piece into twoparts and lay the bottom half to the side for now.

Referring to exploded diagram figure 2, proceed to make thecutouts and radius cuts in the bottom portion of both sides as illustrated, as well as themiters for the two roof sections. These cuts are best accomplished with a jigsaw.However, the miters would be easier to make with a table saw if you have one. Drillthe air holes in the sides as indicated with a 1/2-inch spade bit and cut each slotvertically with a jigsaw.

Before you assemble the box, lay the sides on a flat surface withthe inside facing you. The sides are to be offset from the front and back by 3/8-inch.Therefore, draw a vertical line 3/8 of an inch in from the front and back edges onboth sidepieces to establish the location of the front and back offset.

To assemble the nesting box, spread a bead of glue along theedges of the back piece. Set the alignment before you drive a nail near the bottom ofthe side. Then continue nailing the upper portion of the front. Align the front, back withone side as indicated in the basic box diagram using your vertical 3/8-inch setback lineas your guide. Nail the three pieces together with 1-1/2-inch casing nails

Once you are sure your vertical alignment. Attach the second sidein like manner. Clamp the four pieces together.

Carefully slip the floor between the sides so it aligns as shown inthe diagram. The bottom of the floor should align with the top edge of the cut out side.Run a bead of glue on the edge of the sides and back of the floor and nail the floor inplace with 1-1/2-inch casing nails.

Figure 2

Glue and nail the roof sections in place. Add the two 2-1/4-inchhalf circles to the plateau top and then glue and nail the assembly to the roof sections.Round off the corners of the entry hole guard and attach it to the front with glue and 1-inch brads. Leave the M1 trim, half circle design and drop down flap until after thebox is complete.

To replicate the design of the half circle for the front flap, enlargethe graphic to the size indicated at your local copy shop or on your home inkjet printer.

Tape the half circle copy face down on a 1/4-inch board that islarger than what is required. Leave a 3/4-inch space at the top of the design formounting the M1 molding. With the backside of the design facing you, run a hot ironover the copy to reactivate the toner, transferring the design to your board. You shouldnow have an exact copy of the design on the board. Cut out the design with the 3/4-inchspace above it for the M1 trim.

Add the M1 molding to the half circle in the 3/4-inch space abovethe design. Paint the half-circle design in the colors of your choice before attaching itto the drop down flap.

Attach the drop down flap with a stainless steel 1-1/2 inch "pianohinge". Using the screws provided with the hinge, secure one edge to the bottom of theflap the other to the top of the floor so only the knuckle of the hinge is visible. Theentire front face should now align in one plane.

Add L-hooks to the edge of the box to engage the flap when itcloses. Paint the project in contrasting colors of your choice.

Did you know…?

Screech owls usually live at lower elevations, preferring open fields, clearings, andmeadows to hunt their prey. Although equipped with unusual enhancements for hunting, itis a myth that owls see in the dark. Their prominent facial disk acts like a parabolicreflector to concentrate sound, allowing them to locate their prey in dim light. Screech owlshave a single brood per season. They are faithful incubators, and often refuse to leave thenest even when disturbed. The Northern Flicker may also inhabit a box made for owls. The flicker is a largewoodpecker, often found in open areas foraging for insects at ground level. The flickerprefers ants and in one study, over 3,000 were found in the stomach of a single bird – donot ask me who counted them. They too usually produce one brood a year, and sometimestwo, in warm climates. The American Kestrel is the smallest, most common falcon found in North America. Thekestrel is often referred to as a sparrow hawk. This is a misnomer because its diet does notconsist entirely of sparrows, nor is the kestrel a hawk. Like the Screech Owl and NorthernFlicker, it too prefers open country and can often be spotted perched on wires along anopen road.

THETEMPLE Years ago,whileundertaking

architectural research on the Yucatan Peninsula, I had the good fortune to visit several ancientMayan sites. I was particularly fascinated with the temple structures – square in form, deep-setdoorways, and surfaces adorned with richly carved ornament. It is strange how memories linger,and in some respects, I link this design to my Mayan experience. Cutting List

Description Qty Size Cut FromPlatform 1 3/4 x 10-1/2 x 10-1/2 1 x 12 pineFront 2 3/4 x 8 x 8-3/8 1 x 10 pineBase 1 3/4 9-1/2 x 9-1/2 1 x 10 pineSide 2 3/4 x 6-1/2 x 8-3/8 1 x 10 pineRoof 2 3/4 x 7 x 11-1/4 1 x 8 pineSet Back Doorway 2 3/4 x 4 x 6-3/4 1 x 6 pineGable 2 3/4 x 3 x 10-1/2 1 x 4 pine Other Items: Finial # 13, P- 49, See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box and refer to the letterdesignation for the placement of the various surface enhancements listed in the text under Trim. ConceptThe Temple is a two front house, simple in form, essentially an 8-inch square box with a setback doorway containing a 1-1/2-inch entry hole. It is one of the special top projects composed of a10-1/2-inch platform with a 30-degree gable attached to each end. The square platform overhangsthe 8-inch square box 1-1/4-inch on all sides giving a basic box a different look. Once youunderstand the basic concept, adding all the enhancements is the fun part.

Figure 1 Instructions

Layout the basic pieces for the project referring to the illustration and the cutting listusing a carpenter's square and a 30-60-degree drafting triangle. Cut the various pieceswith the tool of your choice.For the archway on the two front surfaces, use the hole saw with a 2-1/2-inch blade tocut the circular portion. Complete the archway using a coping saw or jigsaw. Next,drill the air holes in the sidepieces as shown with a 1/2-inch spade bit. In each setbackdoorway piece, drill the entry hole with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit. Make sure the entry

hole is at the proper height and spacing before you start drilling or it will bemisaligned when you attach it to the front. Attach the setback doorways to the backsideof each front as shown with glue and 1-1/4-inch brads. Make sure the doorway isproperly centered in the archway opening.

Next, attach the fronts to thesides with glue and 1-1/2-inch, casing nails. Make sure the corners of the box aresquare, you can check them with your carpenter's square.Attach the gabled platform in two steps. First, spread a bead of glue along the topedges of the box, position the platform over the box allowing a 1-1/4-inch overhang onall four sides. Nail the platform in place with 1-1/2-inch, casing nails. Next, glue eachgable to front edge of the platform and secure with 1-1/2-inch, casing nails driven at anangle at the shallow end of the slope to engage the platform.Add the roof sections, one at a time. Spread a bead of glue on half the slope of the twogables. Fasten the first roof section to the gables allowing a 3/8-inch overhang on thefront of each gable; nail in place with 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Repeat for the secondroof section, only this time, also add a bead of glue along the edge of the roof sectionwhere the two pieces meet at the peak. With the roof sections secure, attach a piece of1/4-inch square trim to the front edge of each gable with glue and 1/2-inch brads.Cut the chamfer for the base at a 45-degree angle, preferably with a table saw foraccuracy. Now attach four, 3/4-inch thick by 1-1/4-inch square wood blocks to thebottom of the chamfered base with construction adhesive. Align the base with the box.Drill pilot holes through the base to engage the sides of the box. Insert 1-1/2-inch # 8zinc-coated Phillips-head screws for attaching the removable base for maintenance andcleaning.The trim pieces are designated by letters of the alphabet to indicate their location onthe surface of the project. For the individual pieces, see Section 3, Beyond the BasicBox.

Assembly Diagram Trim

A – 3/4-inch wooden ball half, attached to the center of each gable. B – Chair rail section # 6, 2 pieces 10-1/2-inch long attached to front edge of platform. C – Handmade M4 molding, 4 pieces, each 8-inches in length with 1/2-inch squares of 1/4-inch thick poplar attached as indicated making a continuous band around the box.

D – Half circle arch, one for each front. Using a pencil compass, draw a 3-1/2-inch-diameter circle on a scrap piece of wood and cut out the circle with a jigsaw. Use a hole-saw with a 2-1/2-inch blade to cut out center of the circle, leaving a 1/2-inch thick circularring. With a jigsaw, cut the circular ring in half, making two half-circle arches – one foreach front. E – Using a coping saw cut four # 7 sections of chair rail molding1/2-inch wide to fitdirectly below the arch. F – Cut two 2-5/8-inch pieces of shoe molding for the threshold at the bottom of eachsetback doorway. G - Starting at a point directly below the continuous handmade molding, measure, and cut tosize, 1/4-inch square strips of poplar forming a continuous band around the box. Proceed toadd all the remaining 1/4-inch square strips by following the dimensions shown on theillustration.

Trim Diagram Tip: You will note from the photo of the Temple that it is painted in contrasting colors. I suggestyou do likewise in the colors of your choice. However, I have found that it is best to paint yourcolors first before you attach the trim pieces, that goes for the M4 molding as well. When youattach the small, lightweight pieces use glue and thin brads of a proper length to avoid splitting thewood.

I know this project takes a good deal of time and patience, but it is well worth the trouble.After all, look at it this way

..."Accept that some days you are the pigeon, and some days you are the statue"Attributed to David Brent

SWING LOWSWINGSOFTLY This is the onlyhanging nest boxin the book.With theexception ofwrens, nestingbirds arecautious andstay away fromboxes that arenot stable.Wrens will usea hanging boxsince movementdoes not seemto bother them,and they do notmind thepresence ofhumans. Wrensare a favorite ofgardeners astheir diet

consists mainly of insects. Cutting ListDescription Qty Side Cut FromFront 2 3/4 x 12 x 14 1 x 14 pineSide 2 3/4 x 5 x 5 1 x6 pine

Base 1 3/4 x 5 x 6-1/4 1 x 6 pineGable Bar 1 3/4 x 1-1/4 x 5 scrap pineAluminum Flashing 1 8 x 21 12-inch wide purchasedEntry Hole Guard 1 1/4 x 3 x 8-1/2 1/4-inch thick poplarOther Items: Finial # 1, (Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box –P49)Instructions

Enlarge the shape below on heavy weight paper or cardstock atyour local copy store. Carefully cut out the shape and trace it twice – one for the front,one for the back. Mark the crosshairs by making a hole with a small nail at each mark –five for the front and four for the back. This is a one-front box, so you only need oneentry hole.

Figure 1 Next, layout and cut the base and two sides. Drill the air holes in the

sides with a 1/2-inch spade bit. Then temporarily attach the base to the sides bydrilling pilot holes through the base to engage the sides. Attach the pieces togetherusing two 1-1/2-inch # 8 Phillips-head screws. Do not glue the base to the sides.Draw the screws up tight so the "U-shape" is stable to help you align the front andback.

Return to the two traced free forms and carefully cut them with ajigsaw. On the front piece drill the entry hole with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit at the point ofthe crosshair you previously marked. Using a small 1/8-inch drill bit, drill holes all theway through the remaining cross hair locations on the front and back.

On the backside of each free form, measure 1-inch down from the

bottom pilot hole, on each side and mark a point. Draw a horizontal line connecting thetwo points representing the top edge of the base. Next, draw a vertical line connectingthe top and bottom pilot holes for the vertical alignment of the sides. These are youralignment lines for attaching the sides with its temporary base.

Do not spread glue on the edge of the base, only the two sides.Using the location lines drawn in the previous step, press the U-shape to the backsideof the front free form. As the glue takes hold, carefully turn the partial assembly overand drive1-1/2-inch trim screws through the pilot holes previously drilled. Make surethe trim screws countersink slightly below the surface so the holes can be filled. Addthe backside in like manner.

Refer to the Assembly Diagram. Attach the 5-inch gable bar to thefront and back free form, as indicated, with glue and a 1-1/2-inch trim head screw oneach end. At this point, make sure you can still unscrew the base for maintenance.

Cut a piece of aluminum flashing, with ordinary scissors, to the sizeindicated and locate the center point. Place the flashing over the gable bar and proceedto bend it over bar at the center point using just your hands. It will begin to form anatural crease matching the 3/4-inch width of the wood bar. When the crease is visible,remove the flashing, and continue forming the crease by using a 3/4-inch-inch piece ofscrap wood inserted inside the crease. You will find that the shape that results fromfolding the metal forms the flare required for attaching the flashing to the free form.

Now spread a thin bead of construction adhesive on the top of thegable bar and on the flared edges of the free form. Press the metal flashing over thefree form, leaving an equal overhang on the front and back. For stability, nail a 5/8-inch brass linoleum nail at each end of the flashing as indicated.

Cut the predator donut, entry hole guard, and assemble the finial.

Glue the predator donut to the entry hole guard and add the 1-1/4-inch half ball. Drill ahole for the finial, fill it with glue, and insert it. Glue and nail the entry hole assemblyto the front face. Paint the box in

contrasting colors of your choice but leave the flashing in its natural state.

Assembly Diagram

ACORN This shapereminds me ofan acorn. It didnot start out as apreconception,it just happenedthat way. It is afree-formdesign, basedon the three-sided box- twosides and aremoval base.The roof ismade from 30-gauge coppersheet that can beeasily cut with apair of scissors.The coppersheet is soft,subject to dentsand creases, andmust be handledgently. To offset

this downside, I added wood half rounds over the copper. It adds strength and texture, and makesthe design look even more like an acorn. Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut FromFront 2 3/4 x 8-1/2 x 12-3/4 1 x 10 pine

Side 2 3/4 x 5 x 5-3/4 1 x 6 pineBase 1 3/4 x 5 x 6-1/4 1 x 6 pineCopper Sheet 1 30-ga. 8-1/2-inch wide purchasedApplied Arch 2 3/4 x 4-3/4 x 7-1/2 1 x 6 pineOther Items: Predator Guard (2 required), 14, 8-1/2-inch half- round molding and cove molding(See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box) Instructions

Enlarge the acorn shape to the size indicated on heavyweight paper or cardstock. Cutout the shape with scissors and trace it twice. This is a two-front house. Mark the fivecrosshairs on each piece with a nail hole. Now trace two separate arch pieces twice ona board. Cut out the four shapes with a jigsaw.

On the backside of each front, strike a horizontal line 1-1/2-inches down from thelowest crosshair mark. This represents the top of the base. Measure up 5-3/4-inch andstrike another horizontal line marking the top of the U-shape assembly.On the two fronts, at the point marked, drill the entry hole with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit.At the other 4 points, drill holes all the way through using a 1/8-inch bit.Next layout and cut the base and two sidepieces. Temporarily attach the base to thesidepieces by drilling pilot holes through the base to engage the sides. Assemble thepieces with two 1-1/2-inch # 8 Phillips-head screws. Do not glue the base to thesides. Draw the screws up tight so the "U-shape" is stable.Now attach the U-shape to one of the fronts by spreading a thin bead of constructionadhesive to vertical edges of the sidepieces and set the U-shape in position accordingto your guidelines. Do not spread glue on the edge of the base. As the adhesive takes

hold, carefully turn the partial assembly over and drive 1-1/2-inch trim screws throughthe 4 pilot holes allowing the screws to countersink so later on you can fill the holes.Add the second front in like manner.Refer to the Assembly Diagram. Attach the arch gables with glue and 1-1/2-inchcasing nails. Cut the cove mold to size and attach it directly below the arch with glueand 3/4-inch brads. Next, attach the predator guard with glue and 1-1/2-inch nails.Cut an 8-1/2-inch wide strip of 30-guage copper sheet 14-inches long. Fold the sheet inhalf. At the midpoint, use your hands to make a 3/4-inch standing seam using a 3/4-inchpiece of scrap wood as a guide for height.Spread a thin bead of construction adhesive on the edges of the acorn and pull thecopper sheet firmly over it, to adhere the copper sheet to the wood. To hold the shape,nail 5/8-inch brass linoleum nails at each end of the copper sheet.Cut fourteen 1/2-inch half-round molding strips the exact width of the copper sheet.Paint the strips in a color of your choice and attach the pieces with constructionadhesive and 1-inch brads as illustrated. Space the half-rounds 1/2-inch apart.Unscrew the base to make sure it was not glued to the sides. It is intended to beremovable for cleaning and maintenance.Fill the screw holes with exterior wood filler and sand smooth. Paint the project incontrasting colors of your choice. Leave the copper sheet in its natural state.

Assembly Diagram

Birds live by reading the world in ways we cannot.

"...gifted with extensions of the senses we have lostOr never attained, living by voices we shall never hear"

Henry Beston, excerpt: The Outermost House

KEY HOLEHOUSE When I finishedmaking thishouse, itreminded me ofa key hole.Perhaps it isreminiscent of a“do not disturb”sign that bringsa key hole tomind. I assureyou the namehas nothing todo with how theproject isconstructed. Iguess it is justone of myquirks. Theproject isunique in onerespectinsomuch as itessentially has

two roofs - one on top and one on the side. Cutting List Description Qty Size Cut From Front 2 3/4 x 7-1/2 x 9-1/4 1 x 10 pine Base 1 3/4 x 6-1/2 x 7-1/2 1 x 10 pine

Roof 2 3/4 x 7-1/4 x 8 1 x 8 pine Side 2 3/4 x 1-3/4 x 5 scrap pine Blocks 4 3/4 x 1-1/4 square scrap pine Other Items: One-half of 3-1/2-inch diameter PVC tube 8-inches long, two 8-inch long 1/2-inchrounds and 21-inches of M2 molding (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box) InstructionsLayout the two fronts and two side roofs and base with a carpenter's square as illustrated in figure1. Use a pencil compass to layout the arch gable. Follow the dimensions very carefully to arrive atthe proper shape. Cut the pieces with the tool of your choice. (Tip: after you cut the first front,use it as a template for the second one.)

Figure 1

Next layout and cut the, two small sides, PVC roof, and two entryhole guards according to the illustration in figure 2. The two small sidepieces require a45-degree miter on each long edge to fit properly. Excluding the remaining trim, youshould have all the basic pieces cut. Now drill the two fronts and the two entry holeguards with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit.

Figure 2

Refer to the Assembly Diagram. If everything has been laid outand cut properly, the assembly is easy. Glue and nail the two small sidepieces to thefronts using 1-1/2-inch casing nails, aligning the sides with the bottom of the box andthe sloped front. Next, attach the side roof sections with glue and nails allowing for a3/4-inch extension beyond each front. Make sure the mitered end aligns with the frontas indicated.

Glue the PVC roof section in place with construction adhesiveallowing the roof to overhang 3/4-inch on each front. "Eyeball" it so it sits level.Attach the two pieces of 1/2-inch half round molding to the edge of the PVC withconstruction adhesive.

Complete the base by adding the four 1-1/4-inch corner blocks, cutfrom scrap, with construction adhesive. Set the base under the house and align it withthe fronts. Turn the house over and drill two pilot holes through the base to engageeach front. These holes are for the 1-1/2-inch #8 Phillips-head screws, allowing thebase to be easily removed for maintenance. Now add the entry hole guards and M2molding pieces where indicated. Paint the project in the contrasting colors of yourchoice.

Assembly Diagram

FISH orFOWL Some peoplethink thisproject lookslike a fish,others say it is abird. I can seethe similarities,but I assure youneither wasintended. It isjust how thecreative processoperates; younever knowwhat is floatingaround in thesubconsciousmind. Thisproject is easyto make. Theunique part isthe bendableplywood thatmakes the

imagined shape a reality. Cutting ListDescription Qty Size Cut FromSide 2 3/4 x 6-1/2 x 11 1 x 8 pineFree Form 2 3/4 x 6 x 6 x 17 1 x 8 pineBase 1 3/4 x 6 x 6-3/4 1 x 8 pine

Front 1 1 x 5-1/2 x 11 1 x 6 pineBack 1 3/8 x 9 x 24 bendable plywoodTrim 1 1/4 x 1/4 x 36 stock poplarInstructions

Enlarge the free form shape at your local photocopy shop on heavyweight paper orcard stock, figure 1. Cut out the template with scissors or a craft knife. Sparingly tapethe template to the board size indicated and carefully trace around it with a soft pencil.You may want to cut one shape first and then use it as a template for the second shape.With a nail, make a small hole in the center of the cross hair to locate the entry hole oneach shape. Cut both shapes with a jigsaw.

Figure 1

Next, layout the three box pieces using a carpenter’s combination square, figure 2. Cutthe box pieces with your tool of choice. Drill the air holes in the front piece with a 1/2-inch spade bit. Drill the entry holes in the free form shapes with a 1-1/2-inch spadedrill and the corresponding sides of the box marked with a cross hair. Assemble thebasic box observing the 3/8-inch front setback. Use glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.Now attach the two free form shapes observing the 1-1/4-inch setback on the side ofthe box. Attach the pieces with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.

Figure 2Now proceed to attach the bendable plywood. If your 24-inch length of plywood iswider than required now is the time to cut it to the proper width. Spread a bead of gluealong the edge of the free form shape for about 3 or 4 inches. Position the plywood 1-1/4-inches out from the front face of the box and drill two pilot holes for starter screwsindicated in the illustration. Insert a trim screw on one side. Make sure the plywood iscentered, and then place a trim screw on the other sideTo continue, run a bead of glue all the way down the remaining edge of the two sides.Firmly press the plywood to the curved surface and every two to three inches along itsentire length fasten it with 1-1/2-inch trim head screws.(Tip: to steady the projectwhile attaching the screws it helps to lay it face down on a flat surface.)Now add the 1/4-inch square trim pieces as shown in the photo. The exact location issomewhat arbitrary. Use the photo as your guide. I suggest you add the trim after youpaint the main surface.Cut the base and position it under the box so it corresponds to the sides. Drill a pilothole in each edge of the base for the two 1-1/2-inch #8 zinc coated Phillips- head screws that can be easily removed for maintenance and mounting.Countersink all exposed nails and screws. Fill the holes with exterior wood filler andsand smooth. Paint the project in the contrasting colors of your choice. Paint a circlearound the entry hole or add a 2-1/2-inch circular predator guard.

Assembly Diagram

5 After You Build It

After you build it, will they come? If you build a nesting box without considering a bird's habitat,chances are they will not come, and all your work may go for naught. Cavity-nesting birds needmore than shelter to survive and breed their offspring. Building a nest box is a step in the rightdirection, but without the proper habitat, you may end up with an empty box, or one inhabited bysparrows or starlings.So how do you know which birds you can attract? First, they must be secondary cavity nesters;birds known to inhabit nest boxes, like those listed in this book, with strong feet and a curiosity toexplore dark holes. Second, they must be birds that frequent the area where you live. To learnwhich birds are native to your area, I strongly suggest you obtain a bird identification book, and apair of binoculars.

A guide will indicate a range where a specific bird will generally be found. However, since arange is a geographical designation, it may vary, shift, or decrease due to environmental changes,climate, or human alteration of the landscape. Nonetheless, a good guide can lead you in the rightdirection and serve as an immediate reference. Another way to identify regional birds is by their specific behavioral patterns. You can learn toidentify a particular species by the way they forage for food, or from their distinctive bodylanguage – tail movement, walking patterns, or peculiar rituals that some birds exhibit during themating season. These are all telltale clues for identification. Attracting birds, enjoying their presence, and observing their antics are just a few of the many

benefits derived from building a birdhouse. However, once you erect a nest box you become a"landlord", with all the duties associated with the title. You also become accountable for the safetyof your inhabitants. In other words, you take on the duties of a custodian - cleaning, repairing, andmaintaining your nest box to keep it disease free and in good order. Most important is the matter ofhabitat, providing a nurturing environment akin to that found in nature. Indeed, setting out a nest boxwill entail some extra work on your part, but for the enjoyment you will derive, it is a small priceto pay. Habitat Habitat is the natural environment where a species lives and breeds. Although a createdenvironment cannot duplicate a natural habitat, you can produce enough diversity to satisfy the fouressential ingredients for survival – food, water, space, and cover. You may live in an area where all these ingredients exist, if not, you will have to create them inorderto attract the right birds to your nest box. The first step is take an inventory of your property todetermine what trees and plants you already have, and what needs to be added, removed, orimproved upon. It helps to make a simple sketch that identifies all the primary elements of yourlandscape, including the location of your house, decks, driveway, and other prominent features. Ifyou are planning to add landscape, remember, what you plant is as important as where you plant it.Birds tend to favor areas where different habitats come together, like open areas bordered by trees,or other such contrasting edges. Natural settings with loose edges, brambles and thickets, orgardens where leaves are left to mulch are also effective for attracting birds. All too often gardensare too pristine and manicured to serve as habitats for birds, and we are left to wonder why they goelsewhere to nest.

Food When providing food, natural sources yield the best results. It is a way of keeping a balance withnature. Native birds and plants evolved together so it is only sensible to respect that evolution withsources of natural food, like berries, fruits, and seeds. Flowers, both annuals and perennials attractinsects that form a main part of a cavity nester's diet. And when you plant, think variety. Include aseasonal supply of food as well as year-round sources. The food you provide depends on the bird you are trying to attract. In general, most wild birdsprefer oil-rich sunflower seeds. They are also fond of suet, fruits, jelly mealworms, and bakedgoods. During the winter, when food sources are less plentiful, feeders are a good substitute. Butbe mindful, birds are like people, they have specific preferences when it comes to food, and theywill be the first to let you know if it's not to their liking – they just won't eat it. There is a great deal of informative literature on bird feeding and their diets, the internet,

periodicals, books, and your own personal observations. You will find that well-chosen food willbring cavity nesters to your habitat and other birds you would not normally see. Chances are ifnesting birds find food in proximity of your nest box, they will nest in them during the breedingseason. One way of knowing what is natural to your environment, is to observe what grows in thefields, forests, and wetlands near your home. Learn what plants, bushes, and trees provide sources of food for birds that frequent your area. If you live in a climate with dramatic seasonal changes, it is a good idea to provide food for thosebirds that do not migrate. However, bear in mind, it is a myth that birds will become dependent onyour feeders and will starve without the food you provide. Birds are creatures of the wild and veryadept at finding natural sources of food.

A protected winter source for food Water

Regardless of the season, birds require water for drinking and bathing. In nature, they obtain waterfrom food, the ground, dew on vegetation, or natural sources like ponds and streams. To providewater, birdbaths are fine, but dripping or moving water is even better for attracting birds. Youmight even consider creating a small water garden by sinking a pool liner in the ground and addinga pump with a water-spraying nozzle. It can be as elaborate or simple as you care to make it. Forwinter use, you might want to add a small immersible heater A few tips for adding water for birds

Place your water source in an open area, but make sure shrubs and bushes are within 10-feet so birds can escape in the presence of danger.

When using a birdbath, elevate it so birds can watch out for predators.

Locate your birdbath in a shady location to minimize evaporation and the growth ofalgae.

Change the water in a birdbath at least once a week.Never use chemicals to control algae or prevent freezing.

When adding water to your birdbath, the maximum depth useful to birds, is 2 to 3-inches.For metal or smooth birdbaths and those with deeper pools, provide gravel and rocks toprovide proper grip and footing.

Clean your birdbath with soap or chlorine bleach, but make sure you rinse it thoroughlybefore refilling.

. A planned garden water source for birds

Space All birds require vertical and horizontal space, where horizontal space is translated to meanterritory. Most birds are territorial, some more than others. During the breeding season, all birdswill protect their space from other birds and humans, and defend areas where the elements ofsurvival and mates can be found. Bluebirds are especially territorial and require more space thanmost cavity nesting birds. Yet at night or during the winter, they will roost communally in naturalcavities, birdhouses, or roosting boxes. However, if you intend to attract this species, with morethan one bluebird box, place the boxes150-feet apart. Oddly enough, bluebirds will tolerate otherspecies close to their nest boxes, but not other bluebirds. The size of a territory varies with eachspecies, population, and the competition for suitable nesting places. In general, you will probablynot attract more than one pair of each cavity nesting species. However, you could have severalnesting pairs of different species on your property, all at the same time. When it comes to space, you can alter your landscape to provide horizontal space by providingopen areas adjacent to planted or forested edges. Vertical space may be shaped with well-selectedplants and trees and should consist of four, forest canopy layers – overstory, midstory, woody

understory, and herbaceous understory or shrubs.

Four, forest canopy covers Cover By nature, birds are cautious and constantly on the lookout for predators. They are extremely alertto movement and sounds, especially during the mating season when their senses are even moreattuned to danger. For these reasons, birds require cover – areas of immediate retreat when theyfeel threatened. Dense vegetation, like shrubs, bushes and trees all act as cover, including tallgrasses and bramble. Since cover can change with the seasons, it is important to consider whatgrows at different times of the year to provide cover year-round. Cover also serves as a roostingplace at night, and during spells of severe weather.

On the lookout for dangerous prey A proper habitat may already exist on your property, or it may take months or even years to create.In the end, your landscape will be better than when you started. It will represent a return to nature,only this time it will serve two purposes - a delight to your eye and a welcome refuge for birds Nest Box Placement In a proper habitat, nest box placement is important, but not as critical as you may think. Birds doadapt quite well. However, when you place your box is very important or you might miss the bestopportunity to attract the cavity-nesting birds you desire. In warm climates, place your box byFebruary, and no later than mid to late March for cooler climates. Be patient, birds may not findyour box immediately, and it may take a season or two until they feel it is safe to occupy it. For personal enjoyment, place birdhouses on your property where you can observe the coming and

going of birds during the breeding season. Other suitable locations are golf courses, open fields,and farms, but you must be careful to avoid areas where pesticides and herbicides may be present.Such agents are not only harmful to birds, but they destroy insects that are an essential part of abird’s diet. When placing your nest boxes, you might want to consider the following generalsuggestions:

For a given species, it is best not to place more than four nest boxes per acre.Avoid hanging birdhouses unless you want to attract wrens; the movement does notseem to bother them.Place your nest box at least 10-feet from jumping off places to thwart predators.Give your birdhouse a chance to weather and time for birds to find it and feel safeapproaching it.Do not place your nest box in areas with a lot of disturbance and noise.If you place a birdhouse near a street or road, face the entry hole away from traffic toprevent fledglings from meeting with disaster.

Regardless of where you place your birdhouse, be sure you provide an unobstructed flight patternto and from the entrance hole. Adult birds make countless journeys, back andforth to feed their nestlings. When you consider that nestlings consume theirweight in food each day that adds up to quite a few trips! As a word of caution regarding sparrows - do not place your birdhouse tooclose to human dwellings or you will attract sparrows. Sparrows have been known to enterbirdhouses and destroy its contents. In addition, Starlings are also an aggressive, obnoxious,species and a downright nuisance. Over a century ago, Sparrows and Starlings were imported toNorth America from Europe and now number in the millions spread across the entire United States. Nesting Materials Did you ever stop and think what effort it takes to build a nest? It has been estimated that a singlenest can take over one thousand or more individual pieces. That is a lot of "comings and goings".You can help by providing an accessible source of nest materials and have the joy of watchingthese avian architects busy at work by providing some of the following materials.

Small twigs

Strips of cloth, 1-inch by 6-inches long FeathersPine needles or long grassesYarn and thread, no longer than 4-inches in lengthCotton piecesDried leavesLint from your dryerStrips of cellophane, and a lot moreMake sure you place these materials in a very accessible place, like an onion baghanging from a tree or an open box resting on a windowsill. Empty suet feeders alsomake good container for storing nesting materials. Some birds will use just aboutanything to build their nest.

Windowsill supplies for our avian architects SecurityBirds are cautious and aware that dangers might befall them, but it is the danger they do not see thatposes a problem, and here is where you can help. With proper box placement, you can avoid themajority of threats from jumping predators. It is the threat from below that you need to be aware ofto thwart those climbing critters, and that depends on the kind of support you use- wood post, metalpoles or PVC tube.

Another security device I use is the identical two-front house with an entry hole in each front. Ifattacked from one side it gives the bird an opportunity to escape through the opposite side. Birdsseem to like the idea as I often observe them flitting in one hole and out the other. The double entryhole also allows you to place the birdhouse in many directions, indoors and outdoors, withouthaving to look at a blank end.

Poles, Posts and TubesPoles are usually sold in sections, varying in length from 18 to 24-inches per section and include amounting flange. They can be purchased in galvanized steel, aluminum, and coated steel, in smalldiameters. Plastic poles are also available but they are not very stable. The problem with smalldiameter poles is that they look out of scale and precarious when supporting a reasonably sizedbirdhouse. They are best suited to small nest boxes. If you want something special, severalcompanies sell decorative posts for birdhouses that resemble country-style porch posts. If this isyour choice, you will have to do a bit of searching because they are not easy to find. You could buya porch post, but that gets a bit expensive.

Of course, you can always make your own support. A four-inch square pressure treated wood postmakes a very sturdy long-lasting support. They are easy to find at your local home improvementstore, economical, and you can dress them up to suit your taste. You can also make your own ametal post from galvanized steel or black iron plumbing pipe, topped off with an inverted plumbersfloor flange.

A 3-inch PVC tube is another possibility. Its slick surface automatically dissuades predators fromclimbing, so a predator guard is rarely needed. You can buy an inexpensive PVC floor drain flangethat fits snugly inside the tube and serves as the underside mount for your birdhouse. Setting a SupportThe simplest way to set any support is to dig a hole with a post digger or spade-point shovel. Youwill need a hole 18 to 24-inches deep and about 4-inches wider than the support itself. After the

hole is dug, place about 4-inches of gravel in the bottom for drainage. Set your post, and pourconcrete all around the support to engage it. In climates prone to frost, it is good practice to extendthe post down 6-inches below the frost line to prevent heaving. If the soil in your area compactswell, you can set a wood post, or PVC tube, into the hole and tightly compact the removed soilaround it for a snug fit. If you use this method with a PVC tube, it is a good idea to pour about 18-inches of stone or gravel into the hollow tube to make the bottom more stable. Due to their smalldiameter, it is always advisable to set a metal post in concrete for stability. You can purchasequick-setting, dry mixed concrete in small bags with directions clearly printed on the bag; all youneed is water. When you set your support, always use a level to get it straight.

Baffles

Once you decide on your support, you need to turn your attention to baffles. It seems like every yearsomeone comes out with a new device, touting it as the perfect solution for thwarting climbing

predators. There may not be the perfect baffle, but believe me, some of these devices do work, andwork well Baffles fall into three general categories, loosely described as saucers, cones, and tubes. For 4-inch square wood post, the cone baffle is a very good choice, or the 16-inch long cylinder type.Both are constructed of heavy metal so predators cannot destroy them. For poles of variousdiameters, the polycarbonate plastic saucer type is fine, but a better more choice is the 6-inchdiameter steel tube. The latter is sold in 12 or 16-inch lengths with a sloped top called the“torpedo” top to dissuade intrusive creatures. When placing your baffle, the top of it should be atleast 4-feet above ground and securely fastened to the support. As previously mentioned, PVCsupports do not require baffles because PVC is smooth and difficult to grip. Mounting In this book, you have probably noticed that I favor supporting a nest box from below. The reasonis quite simple. With the exception of the roosting box, and owl house, all the projects in this bookare equipped with a removable base that provides easy access for cleaning, and serves a dualpurpose for mounting. The base can be attached to the top of a wood post with just one screw.Once in place, you can easily attach or remove your birdhouse from the underside while leaving thebase attached to the post. If you use a flange type support, you merely attach the flange to theunderside of the removable base and then screw the base to the birdhouse. For easy reattachment, Imark the underside of the nest box with an arrow that corresponds to an arrow on the top of theremovable base. When I move a birdhouse indoors for storage or repair, I leave the base on itssupport and cover it with a plastic bag. As shown elsewhere in the book, I use a couple variationsof the removable base; the principle is always the same, and the concept of avoiding waterintrusion always considered

Mounting, maintenance, storage, and repair. I do not recommend hanging birdhouses. Birds do not like movement when they are breeding andtend to avoid hanging boxes. Although the height to mount a nest box is not a precise science, Isuggest you refer to the Birdhouse Data and Dimensions Chart in Section 2, Building the BasicBox to establish a height within the range listed. I have mounted birdhouses anywhere from 5 to 15-feet above ground level, on wood posts and dead trees, and have yet to find a magic distance forattracting birds. MaintenanceTo encourage birds to keep coming back to your nest box you have to maintain it in much the sameway as you would with your own house. Birdhouses can last for many years and continue to beserviceable, if they are cleaned on a regular basis, repaired when needed, and refinishedperiodically to keep the wood from rotting. I know, some people like that worn out down to earthweathered look, but how would you like to occupy a house with a leaking roof? CleaningNest boxes should be cleaned after each breeding season, and no later than a few weeks before thenext one. In the case of wrens and bluebirds, the box needs be cleaned after each brood. Wrens andbluebirds breed more than once in the summer, and sometimes as many as two or three times in aseason. Bluebirds may build a new nest with each new brood; however, some studies have shownthat they may reuse an old nest. For your own health and safety, it is prudent to wear gloves whenremoving debris from a nest box. If you find parasites or insects inside, you can clean the interiorwith a biodegradable, soy-based spray that you can purchase, or you can use household bleach forcleaning – one part bleach to nine parts water.

Make sure you rinse the inside of your box and let it drythoroughly before you reassemble it. To stay healthy and avoid disease, always wear rubberized orleather gloves when removing debris. You will also need a stiff scrubbing brush to eliminatedifficult stains, tough grime, and bird droppings, and nothing works better than an old barbequebrush. If you find wasps have been making nests in the roof of your box, you can rub bar soap onthe inside top to prevent them from returning. RepairsFrom time to time, every birdhouse will require some form of repair. As part of your repairprogram check for open joints, leaks, rusted hardware, or peeling finishes. If you find any spongywood areas, replace them; they will only get worse with time. If nails have come loose, use screwsto strengthen joints and caulk any suspect seams. If you painted your house with good quality paint,the finish should last for a number of years and you may only need intermittent touchups.Regardless of how good your finish appears; always clean the outside of your nest box to avoid thebuildup of harmful mold and mildew. On our property, some of the birdhouses I built 10 to 15years ago are still going strong.

6 Display

Beyond Design The process of design extends beyond the parameters of function and sound building techniques. Itencompasses the need in all of us for beauty and contentment. You do not set out to createsomething of value devoid of artistic intent, or for the sole purpose of self-gratification, it just isnot done. The impulse to share and the need for giving is a part of what we are. With that in mind, itmatters little how or where an object is displayed, but rather the joy it imparts to the viewer.Outdoors, a birdhouse may serve as garden sculpture, a focal point, or part of a composition withother birdhouses or like objects. Indoors, it may become part of a treasured collection, an interiorenhancement, or a valued work of fine art. Regardless of how they are displayed, birdhouses havebecome one of those "feel good" things that never fail to capture our attention or prompt a smile.They are a delight to the eye, a product of the imagination, feeding our fascination for all thingssmall, earthy, and intimate – a sense of home within us all. Outdoor DisplayThe functional purpose of a birdhouse is to provide a nesting place for cavity-nesting birds and aplace of refuge during inclement weather for birds that stay year-round. However, birdhouses arefinding their way into gardens across the globe, used as enhancements and providing visual delight,even if they do not attract birds. On our property in Pinehurst, North Carolina, we displaybirdhouses for function and aesthetic effect, often changing locations and alternating settings forvariety. In our garden, or elsewhere on our property, these visual delights always attract attention andcomment. Garden size notwithstanding, I am sure you can personalize your garden by placingbirdhouses in unusual locations to suit your taste. You might decide to mount one on top of yourmailbox support as a welcoming entrance near your driveway. It makes an attractive addition to anotherwise common mailbox.

Or how about a pair of birdhouses of dissimilar design set on a wood deck or top of a log.

There are a number of ways to display birdhouses in your garden…

A

1 … on a "stick tower" 2 …in a secret garden 3 … on aShepherd's hook

4 …clustered in an outdoor Carolina Room 5…or partially hidden in anarbor of blossoms

nd who says you can't display a birdhouse in the city, high above the clamor of NewYork City traffic. On the other hand, you might choose one of my favorite means foroutdoor display, by grouping three together to make a composition. Mounted to a wall

of your house, birdhouses make a suitable nesting place for wrens; I can attest to that. For an eye-catching vertical display in your garden, you might try three birdhouses on equally spaced poles – agreat idea suggested by my wife Marilyn.

Indoor Display All of my birdhouses have four wood blocks attached to their base, except where a specific designdoes not accommodate them. Some projects have wood balls fastened to legs, and one even usesthread spools. I am often asked, what is the purpose of these various blocks, balls, and spools? Theanswer is simple. They provide a means of elevating the birdhouse when it is set on a flat surface,especially when displayed indoors. In my opinion, it gives the birdhouse a stately presence. It issomething I started with the first project I designed and I continue to use the method for indoor andoutdoor display. As the finial is a final addition to the roof, the blocks, balls, and spools are anartful beginning. Birdhouses used for decorative enhancements have found their way into homes of all styles fromcontemporary to country. Some have become a part of a personal art collection displayed alongside of other collectibles. Whether displayed with art or other earthy items, a birdhouse can add anatypical touch without looking out of place.

Birdhouses are a welcome addition in a window setting arranged with items of like and kind thatare reminiscent of nature. A birdhouse window display can occur in any room in the house and italways seems to fit. Cabinets with shelves, often found in kitchens, are a great place to display abirdhouse. Since kitchens have become a gathering place for family and friends, they make aninteresting conversation piece.

Living room Kitchen

Displayed as artifacts, birdhouses can be combined with avian wall hangings above a freestandingwardrobe in a bedroom. The unusual placement never fails to catch the eye and meet with aresponse.

In a simple setting, a birdhouse can share shelf space with a small vase of freshly cut flowers fromthe garden. For simplicity, you can display a single birdhouse, one rich in detail and design, againstthe contrasting background of a wall or cabinet.

Countertops and tabletops are always a favorite place to displayobjects of art. Combined with plants on a

glass top coffee table, a birdhouse feels right at home and the reflection of objects makes it even

more stunning.Credenzas set tight against a wall provide shelf space for objects, acountertop, and a background wall all in one. It makes a great place fora birdhouse and other ornate objects that you may also wish to display.

…combined withplants on a glass top coffee table …or set against a wall on a credenza Displaying birdhouses indoors or outdoors present an array of possibilities, possibilities thatreflect a pride in one's home and property, a testimony to a person's particular taste and aestheticvalues. What is especially satisfying about these displays is there is no right or wrong way – it isjust "your way".

The End

Biography

Richard T. Banks is an architect and artist with 30 years of professional

experience. He received his bachelor and masters' degree in architecture

from the University of Illinois, Champaign/Urbana, where he taught

architectural design for several years before relocating to New York City.

He joined a prestigious international design and planning firm and became a

lead design architect for many large-scale projects in the U.S. and abroad. His work has been

widely published and honored with numerous awards for excellence in building design and urban

planning. Richard later established his own architectural and real estate development firm in New

York prior to relocating to North Carolina. Throughout his career, he has participated in many

juried art exhibitions earning awards for his watercolor and acrylic paintings - an avocation he

continues to this day. He designs, builds, and sells unique birdhouses online, and several of his

designs have been featured in poplar publications including Southern Living, This Old House, and

Garden Design. With his wife, Marilyn, Richard resides in Pinehurst, NC. You can visit his

website at www.architecturaleditions.com.

Metric Equivalents Inches Centimeters

1/8 3 mm1/4 6mm3/8 9 mm1/2 1.3 cm5/8 1.6 cm3/4 1.9 cm7/8 2.2 cm1 2.5 cm1 3.1 cm1 3.8 cm1 4.4 cm2 5.0 cm2 6.25 cm3 7.5 cm3 8.8 cm4 10.0 cm4 11.3 cm5 12.5 cm5 13.8 cm6 15.0 cm7 17.5 cm8 20.0 cm9 22.5 cm10 25.0 cm11 27.5 cm Inches Centimeters 12 30.0 cm 13 32.5 cm

14 35.0 cm 15 37.5 cm 16 40.0 cm 17 42.5 cm 18 45.0cm 19 47.5 cm 20 50.0 cm 21 52.5 cm 22 55.0 cm 23 57.5 cm 24 60.0 cm 25 62.5 cm 26 65.0 cm 27 67.5 cm 28 70.0 cm 29 72.5 cm 30 75.0 cm 31 72.5 cm 32 80.0 cm 33 82.5 cm 34 85.0 cm 35 87.5 cm 36 90.0 cm Notes