Apresentação do PowerPoint - Tied Shoe · This is an interesting design by made vegetable fibers...

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MATERIALS New Polymers in the Footwear Industry

With the support of the Lifelong

Learning Programme of the European

Union

MATERIALS New Polymers in the Footwear Industry Ana Marija Grancaric, Anita Tarbuk

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History of footwear materials

Footwear materials

• First material evidence of the existence of shoes dates back to the

Paleolithic (pre-historic era). But it is generally assumed that the usage

of shoes began much earlier.

• From hemp and leather to plastics:

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Footwear materials

Natural materials

Wool

Cotton

Jute

Wood

Horn

Ivory

Leather

Natural caoutchouc

Color and varnishes: Shellac Resin Linseed oil

Adhesives: wax (paraffin, beeswax, carnauba)

Synthetic materials

Nylon

Polypropylene

Polystyrene

Polyethylene

Polyvinylchloride

Bakelite

Epoxy resins

Organic glass

Polyurethane

Synthetic rubber

Biopolymers

EVA

(…)

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Footwear materials… Today!

Footwear materials

• Due to its properties, Leather is considered indispensable in the

footwear industry.

• Skin leather is the type of leather most commonly used thanks to its low

price and good visual appearance.

• It should be noted that the artificial leather industry is so technically

advanced that it is often difficult to assess whether the shoe is made of

real or artificial leather.

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Footwear materials

• Another important material used in footwear industry are the Textiles.

• Both natural and man-made fibers can be found in almost every shoe,

used either as reinforcement, pads or linings.

Other commonly used materials are:

• Metal (used for additional reinforcement or as accessory)

• Rubber and Plastics (used mainly in soles and heels, and sometimes

can be found in the shoe itself)

• Glue (used for joining the different parts)

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Footwear materials

Natural fibers

Vegetable fiber

Seed

Cotton

Kapok

Akon

From husks

Coconut

From leaves

Sisal

Manila

Raffia

Stalk

Flax

Hemp

Jute

Ramie

Kenaf

Animal fiber

Keratin

Wool

Hair

Mohair

Cashmere

Angora wool

Camel coat

Llama hair

Fiber from other animals

Silk

Wild silk:

Tussah

Anafi

Mineral fiber

Asbestos

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New application of vegetable fibres – cotton, flax, jute, ramie

Cotton fibers’ usage in the footwear industry: such us fabrics for lining or for the upper part of a pair of shoes.

Flax fibers’

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New application of vegetable fibres – cotton, flax, jute, hemp, ramie

The sole is of jute or ramie, upper part is made of cotton, flax or ramie, as well as sews.

This is an interesting design by made vegetable fibers - bamboo

Hemp

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Footwear materials

Man-made fibers

From natural polymers

Cellulose

Viscose

Copper

Modal

Liocelna

Acetic

Triacetate

Protein Regenerated Protein PROT

Alginate ALG

Natural rubber fibres

From inorganic material

Carbonic CF

Glass GF

Metal MF

Ceramic

…

From synthetic polymers

Organic

Polyester

Polyamide

Aramid

Polyacrylonitrile

Modacrylic

Polypropylene

Polyester

Chloric

Fluorine

Vinyl

Elastane

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New application of synthetic fibres

Fibers from inorganic material

Carbon fiber (CF) - It has high stiffness, high tensile strength, low weight, high chemical resistance,

high temperature tolerance and low thermal expansion, what make them very

popular in aerospace, civil engineering, military, and sports. Even highly

expencive, they are usually combined with other materials to form a composite.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Kohlenstofffasermatte.jpg

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Footwear materials

• In the Footwear industry, plastics

are used for making shoe soles,

heels, miser, belt ornaments,

and as replacement

of natural leather

Most commonly used plastics are:

• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

• Polyvinyl acetate (PVAC)

• Polyethylene (PE)

• Polypropylene (PP)

• Polystyrene (PS)

• Polyamide (PA)

• Polycarbonate (PC)

• Ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA)

• Polyurethane (PUR)

Bio-plastics:

• Polylactic Acid (PLA)

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Footwear materials

PVC

Polyvinyl chloride is obtained by polymerization of the vinyl chloride

In shoemaking industry is used soft PVC (with

20 - 50% softener), mainly for producing

soles, heels and all injected shoe

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Footwear materials

PVAC

Polyvinyl acetate is obtained by polymerization of vinyl acetate

• Single PVAC is unsuitable for forming, so it

is mostly used as a copolymer with PVC

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Footwear materials

PE

Polyethylene

• In shoemaking industry it is used for

producing fillings, heels and insoles

is obtained by polymerization of the

ethylene (ethene) under various conditions

(pressure, temperature, catalyst)

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Footwear materials

PP

Polypropylene is obtained by polymerization of the propylene


producing all height of heels, shoe molds

and filling

Propylen Polypropylen

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Footwear materials

PS

Polystyrene is obtained by polymerization of styrene


producing shoe soles and low heels

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Footwear materials

PA

Polyamide


producing shoe soles, sports shoes,

high heels and thin heelpiece

is usually obtained by condensation and

polymerization of diamine and dicarboxylic acid

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Footwear materials

PC

Polycarbonate


producing soles and heels

is saturated polyesters of carbonic acid

of the general formula

(-ORCO-) n

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Footwear materials

Nitributadien Rubber (NBR)

It is resistant to oil, fuel and other chemicals. It contains more nitrile within the polymer, so it has higher resistance to oils but lower flexibility as a material. NBR is used in the preparation of specialized shoes, like coating from oil and chemicals. The shoe above has a pre-molded Rubber Nitrile Sole.

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Footwear materials

Thermoplastic rubber (TR or TPR), one of the most common materials for

making footwear outsoles, has been in use in the footwear industry since the

1960s.

Although it is not suited to every type of footwear, outsole material TR is widely

used in a variety of different types from everyday fashion/casual shoes to

slippers (as it is flexible) and sneakers (as it is slip resistant). In the latter,

application it is often seen in the form of a thin outsole bonded to a

lightweight EVA midsole for cushioning.

Thermoplastic Rubber (TR)

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Thermoplastic PUR

Footwear materials

• Constructed of linear

macromolecules that are related

with physical connections.

• At high temperature physical

connections are torn and

polyurethane can be shaped by

casting.

• Can be formed up to 8 times.

• The molecules are linked by

chemical bonds.

• Grid-like structure occurs at a

temperature higher than 100oC.

• Can not be reformatted.

Thermoset PUR

PUR

Polyurethanes • Has properties similar to rubber

• Excellent material for getting plastics and synthetic fibers

• Can be both, thermoplastic and thermoset

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Footwear materials

Pressing

• The plastic is melted in the injection

molding machine and then injected

into the mold, where it cools and

solidifies.

Molded

Part Molten

Plastic Raw

Plastic

Injection Molding

Machine

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Processing of Plastics is simple and short…

Footwear materials

…and the product

immediately gets

its final shape and

appearance.

Advantages

of using Plastic

• Resistant to: air, water,

bacteria

• Little density, low

electrical and thermal

conductivity, watertight

• Strength and toughness

• Smooth and flat surfaces

(doesn't require further

processing)

• Easy to maintain

Disadvantages

of using Plastic

• Not resistant to high-

temperature

• Low permeability

to air and water vapor

• Not degradable

pollutant

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New polymers

EVA

Ethylenvinylacetat

• Can be used alone or in combination with

other polymers. (Commonly) is produced

as expanded material in plates sole

cropping (soles for lightweight summer

shoes, middle soles)

is obtained by polymerization of ethylene

and vinyl acetate

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New polymers

Designed with an energy-returning boost™

midsole, these running shoes feature a

techfit™ upper and the TORSION®

SYSTEM for support.

Energy-returning boost™ midsole keeps

every step charged with an endless supply

of light, fast energy; TORSION® SYSTEM

for midfoot integrity techfit™ technology for

lightweight and flexible upper support

Flexible textile upper with welded synthetic

overlays for support and stability

External heel counter for maximal heel fit and

running comfort; miCoach® compatible

ADIWEAR™ outsole offers the ultimate in

high-wear durability

Energy BOOST™

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New polymers

Boost is a combination of EVA foam and

TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane).

Thousands of unique energy storing capsules

are blown together to provide an energy

return and performance comfort to the

runner. We're confident runners have never

before felt this level of comfort. Boost is soft,

bouncy and provides the ultimate in

performance; it's lightweight, durable,

comfortable and springy.

Energy BOOST™

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New polymers

How does the technology work?

It's a proprietary, non-EVA foam that is

made up of individual energy storing

capsules that are then blown together in a

unique molding process. During the

development process, each capsule forms

a skin on the outside which, when blown

together forms the technology called Boost.

There are more than 2,000 individual

capsules in a size 9 Energy Boost shoe.

Energy BOOST™

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New polymers

What's the difference between regular EVA foam and Energy Boost?

Since 1981, compression molded EVA has become the standard running shoe

midsole. Even it is great because of the nature of EVA expansion, it starts

breaking down after the first few months. In other words, the shoe you buy

today will have significantly different performance after 100, 200, 300 miles of

use.

In the heat, in the cold, and after countless

miles, Boost cushioning performs more

consistently and doesn’t lose its cushioning

properties like standard EVA.

Energy BOOST™

http://www.google.hr/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=ilnlmiFPAtJNXM&tbnid=f2-ZlSKZXLuZ2M:&ved=0CAgQjRwwAA&url=http://sneakernews.com/2013/02/27/adidas-energy-boost-available/&ei=FtlcUqeBJMOr0QWdlYHIBQ&psig=AFQjCNHr0Y8jYctBmL90BKSjDByaBUTnuA&ust=1381902998657571

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New Polymers

Bioplastics

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New Polymers

Why bioplastics?

• Safer & more friendly for our planet

• Polymers made from renewable, biobased resources and has

a considerably lower carbon footprint than other plastics.

• Biodegradable, leaving behind no harmful substances.

• Positive business impact

• Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of their impact

on our planet and are starting to appreciate and seek out

more environmentally friendly alternatives.

• Bioplastics also alleviate our reliance on increasingly

expensive oil-based sources.

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New Polymers

BioPlastics

• Can be made from natural or synthetic polymers

• Natural: cellulose, stark

• Synthetic: BIO-PE, PLA-polylactic acid, PGA-polyglycol,

PHB-polyhydroxybutyrate, PHA-polyhydroxyalcanoate

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New Polymers

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New Polymers

Thermoplastic stark

Usage:

• Packing

• Fiber mixture

• Composites

Amilose Amilopectine

Stark (patatoe, corn)

glycerol

Thermoplastic stark

http://theconvertingcurmudgeon.files.wordpress.com/2010/05/compostablefilm.jpg

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New Polymers

Polylactid acid (PLA)

• Made from sugar cane, sugar beet or corn

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New Polymers

PLA bioplastic applications

• Molded plastic parts • Fibre • Foam • Film

Safety helmet

High heat resistance

Durable

Weavable

Boots

Low temperature impact

High strength

Consumer electronics


Excellent surfaceappearance

Durable

Sportswear


Good breathability

Soft and tactile feel

Washable and durable

Fresh fruit packaging

Transparent and compostable

100% biobased and recyclable

Automotive industry


Durable

Hydrolytic stability

Foamed inner shell

High impact

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Recycling leather

Recycling

• How to recycle tanned leather is still an open question (not as evident as

plastics which is simply melt and transformed into new products).

• Few solutions are offered:

• Repair the existing damaged product

• Find a new usage for existing product

• Transform leather waste into panels for various uses and products,

e.g. design

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Recycling

Suggested video: Repair Gucci Leather Sole/Busy Bee Newmarket http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9He6TkGOco

• Repair the existing damaged products

• various preparations and methods can give leather an old glow

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Recycling

• Find a new usage for existing products

• creative minds can give a whole new meaning to the old leather item

or to an useless leather waste

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• Design from leather waste panels

• Is composed of leather waste from different usages -

furniture, footwear, accesories and other factories. This

leather is then ground into shreds, combined with

water and then mixed with binding products, such as

natural rubber and acacia wood bark. The leather is

then shaped into a panel, sheet or a roll to be

mechanically processed according to the customer’s

requirements (specific size, color, and texture).

• Panel design can have different uses, such as reinforcements in

shoemaking, floors in construction industry, among others.

Recycling

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Virtual Campus, Lda.

(Portugal)

Sveučilište u Zagrebu,

Tekstilno-tehnološki

fakul

(Croatia)

ΠΟΛΥΤΕΧΝΕΙΟ ΚΡΗΤΗΣ

Technical University of Crete

(Greece)

Universitatea Tehnica

Gheorghe Asachi Iasi

(Romania)

Centro de Formação

Profissional da

Indústria do Calçado

(Portugal)

Instituto de Biomecánica

de València

(Spain)

This project has been funded with support from the

European Commission. This publication reflects the views

only of the author, and the Commission cannot be held

responsible for any use which may be made of the

information contained therein.

Thank you for your attention

Apresentação do PowerPoint - Tied Shoe · This is an interesting design by made vegetable fibers...

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