Mt hermon. mt carmel mt horeb mt hermon mt gerizim mt hebron.
Apparelthreadesimtation Menschinopant Mt
12
New! A NE CALC H elp G uide ANECALC isa tool developed byAm erican& Efird (A&E) to assist inestimatingthe am ount of thread consum ed in a sewn product. Thisinformationcanthenbe usedtocalculatethe Thread Cost perGarm ent andthe estim ated num berofcones you will needfor a quantityof sewnproductsyouareplanning on producing. You do not need to have anyspecial software on your com puter because ANECALC wasdeveloped using Microsoft ® Excel ® spreadsheets. The ANECALC workbookhasSheetsshown asTabsat the bottom used for thefollowing: INSTRUCTIONS tabonhow to use theprogram . New! ISO STITCHES foridentifyingthe correct stitchtype. New! W ORKSHEET taband THREAD COST Tabshave been combinedsoyoucan seeeverything on one spreadsheet. This alsoallowsyou to copythe entire worksheet to com pare thread cost using otherthread combinations. m m to Inches tab that helpsyou convert fractionsof an inch to m illimeters. STARTING A NEW ANECALC SPREAD SHEET - Tobegin anew ANECALC spreadsheet, you can either use an existingApparel Guidelines ANECALC spreadsheet fora sim ilar garment and modifyit forthegarment youaredoing theanalysis on; oryoucan decide tobegin from scratch witha new Spreadsheet. W HEN STARTING FROM SCRATCH - W hen you arestarting from scratch with a new Spreadsheet, iIt is im portant that you select the correct spreadsheet for the weight of the fabricbeing usedinthegarm ent. There are threebasic ANECALC spreadsheets: Light W eight 2 to 4 ozweight fabrics M edium W eight 5–8 ozweight fabrics HeavyW eight 9 – 15 ozweight fabrics The W eight of fabricdeterm inestheratio of NeedletoBottom threadonthe Thread ConsumptionTable that isusedtoestimate the am ount of threadconsumed. - For eachsewing operationonthe garm ent, list thenameof the sewing operation, what ISO Stitch Type isbeing used, how m any rowsof ISO Stitch there are, theStitchesPer Inch (SPI), and the length of the seam. AVERAGE SEAM THICKNESS - At the top of each ANECALC spreadsheet isa cell for the average thicknessof the seam in millim eters. Thisisbased on the average seam thicknessin the entire garm ent. In m ost cases, you will not have to change thisif you are using the correct spreadsheet for Light, M edium orHeavyweight fabric. SELECTING THE ISO STITCH TYPE - If you are not fam ilywith theISO 4915 stitch num bers, can lookthem up on theISO4915 Tab below. - Form anystitchesyou m ust first m easure theneedle s or seam width before selection the stitch. (Ex. 504 -1/8”–3 Thd Overedge). - It isim portant to select the correct ISO 4915 stitch bec thiswill determinetheam ount of thread consum ed in m the seam . NUM BER OF ROW S OF STITCH - Refersto the num ber of rowsof ISO stitch used tom ak seam. ThisdoesNOT refer to the num ber of needleso num ber of pieces(i.e., pockets, etc.) being sewn, BUT num ber of rowsof the ISO stitchyou selected in the pr colum nto m ake the seam . - Forexam ple, a 406 stitch isa two needle bottom cover Thistwo needle stitch type m akesonlyone row of stitc Rule: wheneverthe needlesare connectedwiththread either the top or bottom side of the seam , one row of st beingproduced. - On the other hand, when you twin needle topstitch a po with a 301 Lockstitch, thentwo independent rowsof loc are beingused. SPI - SPI refersto StitchesPerInch and isthe m easurem ent number of linksof thread betweenneedle holesinonein - For exam ple, a typical num ber of stitchesper inch on de would be 8 spi. See A&E’stechnical bulletin on Selectin Proper Stitches Per Inch can be found on A&E’swebsite LENGTH OF SEAM - The length of seam isthe m easurem ent of the seam len including seam m arginsbut doesnot include chain-off. - A&E has ANECALC spreadsheetsavailablein either inc yardsorcentim eters& m etres. The selection of the prop sheet isnormallydependent upontheinternational locat and what m easurem ent system isused for the cone put To convert from m etersto yardsm ultiplytim es.91. To c from m etersto yardsdivide by.91. - In the Am ericas., a typical cone of thread iswound on a yard put-up. In Europe or Asia, a typical cone iswound o 5,000 metreput-up. M any sewing operations have m irrorcom ponents on e side of the garm ent. A right and left cuff, a right and le pocket, etc.
-
Upload
arvind-singh -
Category
Documents
-
view
213 -
download
0
description
thread consumption in mens' chino pant
Transcript of Apparelthreadesimtation Menschinopant Mt
Help GuideANECALC Instructions (continued)ANECALC Instructions (continued)
ISOStitchesISO 4915 STITCH MATRIX
Worksheet & Thread Price CalcAmerican & Efird Thread Consumption Calculator - Medium Wt. FabricsANECALCAvg. Seam ThicknessFill in the information highlighted in "yellow"OK to change below (i.e., Topstitching #1Thread Description (ex. Tex Size / Brand)Copy & Paste from column "M" to Column "O"1.9mmCompany Name:Needle & BobbinsT-40 Perma Core=T-40 Perma CoreABC Mfg. CompanyLooper ThreadsT-27 Perma Spun=T-27 Perma Spun=0.00Garment Description:=0.00Men's Chino Pant=0.00Size: 36 X 32=0.00Photo=0.00=0.00Cost Per Garment =0.0000=0.00US$=0.00RowsSeamNeedleNeedleBobbinBobbinLooperLooper / CoverTotalOperISOofLengthThreadThreadThreadThreadThreadThreadMetres /B73B74B75B76B77B78B79B80B81B82#Name of OperationStitchStitchSPICMMetresTex / Type / ColorMetresTex / Type / ColorMetresTex / Type / ColorOper.T-40 Perma CoreT-27 Perma Spun00000000FRONTS DEPT.1Serge Left Fly Facing3011813.4118200.220.000.780.59T-40 Perma Core0.002.10T-27 Perma Spun2.690.590.000.000.000.002.100.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.002Attach Zipper Tape to Lft Fly74.7928200.550.000.451.06T-40 Perma Core0.000.86T-27 Perma Spun1.921.060.000.000.000.000.860.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.003Serge bottom of Lft Fly1812.361760.220.000.780.15T-40 Perma Core0.000.54T-27 Perma Spun0.690.150.000.000.000.000.540.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.004Face Front Pockets33.20181170.510.490.001.91T-40 Perma Core1.83T-40 Perma Core0.003.741.911.830.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.005Bag Front Pockets1813.4118350.220.000.781.03T-40 Perma Core0.003.64T-27 Perma Spun4.671.030.000.000.000.003.640.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.006Topstitch Bag Pkt33.2018350.510.490.000.57T-40 Perma Core0.55T-40 Perma Core0.001.110.570.550.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.007Serge Left Front at Fly1812.3617300.220.000.780.82T-40 Perma Core0.002.91T-27 Perma Spun3.740.820.000.000.000.002.910.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.008Form Front Pleats33.2018150.510.490.000.25T-40 Perma Core0.24T-40 Perma Core0.000.500.250.240.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.009Set & Topstitch Front Pockets33.2018700.510.490.001.13T-40 Perma Core1.09T-40 Perma Core0.002.221.131.090.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0010Bartack Front Pockets3117.004110.770.230.000.52T-40 Perma Core0.16T-40 Perma Core0.000.680.520.160.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0011Set Left Fly to Front33.2018230.510.490.000.37T-40 Perma Core0.36T-40 Perma Core0.000.730.370.360.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0012"J" Stitch Left Fly33.3519260.510.490.000.44T-40 Perma Core0.42T-40 Perma Core0.000.860.440.420.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0013Serge on Right Fly1813.4118200.220.000.780.59T-40 Perma Core0.002.10T-27 Perma Spun2.690.590.000.000.000.002.100.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0014Topstitch Right Fly33.3519200.510.490.000.34T-40 Perma Core0.33T-40 Perma Core0.000.670.340.330.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0015Crotch Seam33.3519260.510.490.000.44T-40 Perma Core0.42T-40 Perma Core0.000.860.440.420.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0016Bartack Fly (2)3117.002110.770.230.000.26T-40 Perma Core0.08T-40 Perma Core0.000.340.260.080.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.00BACKS DEPT.T-40 Perma Core17Sew Back Darts33.3519160.510.490.000.27T-40 Perma Core0.25T-40 Perma Core0.000.520.270.250.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0018Face Back Pockets33.2018760.510.490.001.24T-40 Perma Core1.19T-40 Perma Core0.002.431.241.190.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0019Set & Topstitch Pkt Welts33.3529610.510.490.002.09T-40 Perma Core2.01T-40 Perma Core0.004.102.092.010.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0020Bartack Back Pockets3222.004110.770.230.000.68T-40 Perma Core0.20T-40 Perma Core0.000.880.680.200.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0021Close Back Pockets33.3519300.510.490.000.52T-40 Perma Core0.50T-40 Perma Core0.001.010.520.500.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0022Bag Back Pockets33.35191270.510.490.002.17T-40 Perma Core2.09T-40 Perma Core0.004.262.172.090.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0023Seat Seam224.7918490.550.000.451.28T-40 Perma Core0.001.05T-27 Perma Spun2.321.280.000.000.000.001.050.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0024Overedge2313.4118490.220.000.781.43T-40 Perma Core0.005.07T-27 Perma Spun6.511.430.000.000.000.005.070.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0025Topstitch Seat Seam74.7918490.550.000.451.28T-40 Perma Core0.001.05T-27 Perma Spun2.321.280.000.000.000.001.050.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.00ASSEMBLY DEPT.T-40 Perma Core26Safetystitch Sideseam224.79182390.550.000.456.29T-40 Perma Core0.005.14T-27 Perma Spun11.436.290.000.000.000.005.140.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0027Overedge2313.41182390.220.000.787.04T-40 Perma Core0.0024.97T-27 Perma Spun32.027.040.000.000.000.0024.970.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0028Topstitch Sideseam74.79182390.550.000.456.29T-40 Perma Core0.005.14T-27 Perma Spun11.436.290.000.000.000.005.140.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0029Safetystitch inseam224.79181800.550.000.454.74T-40 Perma Core0.003.88T-27 Perma Spun8.624.740.000.000.000.003.880.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0030Overedge2313.41181800.220.000.785.31T-40 Perma Core0.0018.84T-27 Perma Spun24.155.310.000.000.000.0018.840.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0031Pipe Waistband33.05171020.510.490.001.58T-40 Perma Core1.52T-40 Perma Core0.003.101.581.520.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0032Topstitch Waistband74.79182210.550.000.455.83T-40 Perma Core0.004.77T-27 Perma Spun10.595.830.000.000.000.004.770.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0033Finish Band Ends33.3519260.510.490.000.44T-40 Perma Core0.42T-40 Perma Core0.000.860.440.420.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0034Buttonsew Fly & Hip Pocket348.002110.750.250.000.12T-40 Perma Core0.04T-40 Perma Core0.000.160.120.040.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0035Buttonhole Fly & Hip Pocket3630.002110.770.230.000.46T-40 Perma Core0.14T-40 Perma Core0.000.600.460.140.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0036Make Belt Loops (7)1113.3918810.450.000.554.85T-40 Perma Core0.005.93T-27 Perma Spun10.784.850.000.000.000.005.930.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0037Bartack Belt Loops3117.0014110.770.230.001.83T-40 Perma Core0.55T-40 Perma Core0.002.381.830.550.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0038Hem Bottom33.2018970.510.490.001.58T-40 Perma Core1.52T-40 Perma Core0.003.091.581.520.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0039Spot Tack Hem33.5011030.510.490.000.05T-40 Perma Core0.04T-40 Perma Core0.000.090.050.040.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.004010.00NEEDLEBOBBINLOOPER0.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.004110.00NEEDLEBOBBINLOOPER0.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.00SUBTOTALS67.8315.9387.99TOTALS171.7667.8315.930.000.000.0087.990.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.0092.1496.790.000.000.000.000.000.000.000.00171.76Total Metres/Garment ConsumedPercent Waste10%17.18Metres/Garment - Waste188.93188.93Total Metres/Garment w WasteANECALC THREAD COST ANALYSISProgram Sz (units)Copy & Paste Thread SKU'sTOTALPut-UpPriceThread PriceThread Price10,000From AboveMETRES(5000M)Per MetrePer Garment# of Cones needed1T-40 Perma Core92.142T-27 Perma Spun96.7930.000.0040.000.0050.000.0060.000.0070.000.0080.000.0090.000.00100.000.00Currency188.93Total Metres/Garment w Waste0.0US$Per GarmentPrices are for comparative purpose only. Contact your A&E Representative for you exact prices.
Page &P of &N
Formulas MedFabric Weight0.075Inchor1.9mmISO Stitch Type12345678910111213141516171819202324251Stitch #?SPISPISPISPISPISPISPISPISPISPISPISPISPISPISPISPISPISPISPISPINEEDLEBOBBINLOOPERTOTAL2103 Blindstitch3.423.563.703.843.98100%0%0%100%3301 Lockstitch2.752.903.053.203.353.503.653.803.944.094.244.394.544.694.844.9951%49%0%100%4304 1/8" ZigZag2.202.653.093.533.974.414.855.295.736.176.617.067.507.948.388.8251%49%0%100%5304 3/16"m ZigZag2.773.333.884.434.995.546.106.657.217.768.318.879.429.9810.5311.0951%49%0%100%6304 1/4" ZigZag3.364.034.705.376.046.727.398.068.739.4010.0710.7411.4212.0912.7613.4351%49%0%100%7401 Chainstitch2.993.594.194.795.395.986.587.187.788.388.989.5710.1710.7711.3711.9755%0%45%100%8404 ZigZag Chain6.216.807.418.058.719.4010.0910.8011.5212.2512.9913.7314.4815.2315.9916.7555%0%45%100%9406 1/8"m Btm Cover8.759.109.449.7910.1410.4910.8411.1911.5411.8912.2412.5912.9413.2913.6413.9855%0%45%100%10406 3/16" Btm Cover10.3811.0511.7312.4013.0813.7514.4315.1015.7816.4517.1317.8018.4819.1519.8320.5050%0%50%100%11406 1/4" Btm Cover11.0011.8012.5913.3914.1914.9915.7916.5917.3918.1918.9919.7920.5921.3922.1922.9845%0%55%100%12407 3Ndl Btm Cover13.7414.6915.6416.5917.5418.4919.4420.3921.3322.2823.2324.1825.1326.0827.0327.9855%0%45%100%13408 Pkt Facings15.3516.8218.2919.7621.2322.7024.1725.6427.1128.5830.0531.5232.9934.4635.9337.4030%0%70%100%14503 1/8" 2Thd Serge6.006.807.598.399.199.9910.7911.5912.3913.1913.9914.7915.5916.3917.1917.9860%0%40%100%15503 3/16" 2 Thd Serge7.268.319.3610.4111.4612.5113.5614.6115.6716.7217.7718.8219.8720.9221.9723.0260%0%40%100%16503 1/4" 2 Thd Serge8.509.8011.0912.3913.6914.9916.2917.5918.8920.1921.4922.7924.0925.3926.6927.9860%0%40%100%17504 1/8" 1 Ndl Overedge9.009.8010.5911.3912.1912.9913.7914.5915.3916.1916.9917.7918.5919.3920.1920.9825%0%75%100%18504 3/16" 1 Ndl Overedge10.2611.3112.3613.4114.4615.5116.5617.6118.6719.7220.7721.8222.8723.9224.9726.0222%0%78%100%19504 1/4" 1 Ndl Overedge11.5012.8014.0915.3916.6917.9919.2920.5921.8923.1924.4925.7927.0928.3929.6930.9820%0%80%100%20514 2 Ndl Overedge12.5414.0515.5617.0718.5820.0921.6023.1124.6126.1227.6329.1430.6532.1633.6735.1825%0%75%100%21515 /Both Safetystitch10.2511.9013.5515.2016.8518.5020.1521.8023.4525.0926.7428.3930.0431.6933.3434.9938%0%62%100%22516 / 401 SafetyS Chain2.993.594.194.795.395.986.587.187.788.388.989.5710.1710.7711.3711.9755%0%45%100%23516 / 504 SafetyS Overedge10.2611.3112.3613.4114.4615.5116.5617.6118.6719.7220.7721.8222.8723.9224.9726.0222%0%78%100%24516 /Both Safetystitch13.2514.9016.5518.2019.8521.5023.1524.8026.4528.0929.7431.3933.0434.6936.3437.9931%0%69%100%25602 1/8" 2 Ndl Coverstitch11.4212.0512.6713.3013.9214.5515.1715.8016.4217.0517.6718.3018.9219.5520.1720.8040%0%60%100%26602 3/16"m 2 Ndl Coverstitch13.0013.9414.8815.8216.7617.7018.6419.5820.5221.4622.4023.3424.2825.2226.1627.1035%0%65%100%27602 1/4" 2 Ndl Coverstitch14.5515.8017.0518.3019.5520.8022.0523.3024.5525.8027.0528.3029.5530.8032.0533.3030%0%70%100%28605 3 Ndl Coverstitch17.2418.6920.1421.5923.0424.4925.9427.3928.8330.2831.7333.1834.6336.0837.5338.9840%0%60%100%29607 4 Ndl Coverstitch19.9921.5923.1924.7926.3927.9829.5831.1832.7834.3835.9837.5739.1740.7742.3743.9745%0%55%100%30Bartack 5/8"1477%23%0%100%31Bartack 1/2"1777%23%0%100%32Bartack 3/4"2277%23%0%100%33BS 2 hole475%25%0%100%34BS 4 hole875%25%0%100%35BH 5/8"2570%30%0%100%36BH 3/4"3077%23%0%100%37BH 1"3975%25%0%100%38Embroidery = 35028478%22%0%100%39Embroidery = 50040678%22%0%100%40Embrodiery = 100081278%22%0%100%41Embroidery = 1500121778%22%0%100%42Embrodiery = 2000162378%22%0%100%43Embroidery = 2500202978%22%0%100%44Embrodiery = 3000243578%22%0%100%
