“We’re definitely not sleeping, we’ve got far too many people to support.”

I N T R O -DUCTION2018 was a turbulent year for Myanmar, with the Rakhine conflict understandably taking centre stage. That’s not to say progress has stalled however; there have been plenty of positive developments, especially within the country’s travel and tourism sector. From increased employment and hospitality training provided by hotels and restaurants, to community based tourism projects that are helping with the preservation, promotion and discovery of beautiful ancient cultures, the role of the tourist is now more important than ever. If you’re keen for your money to make a difference, we can help you with that. One thing’s for sure and that’s that we’re definitely not sleeping, we’ve got far too many people to support.

Alex Shaw, Tour Mandalay’s General Manager

Ma Aye Aye Thant, one of the m

any local partners we work closely with

“With the likes of Rosewood, Excelsior and Wa Ale all set to make their mark, believe us when we say that, 2019’s going to have plenty of excitement in store.”

ACCOMMO-D A T I O NWith the projection of 7.5 million annual tourist arrivals by 2020 (including border crossings), it’s no wonder Myanmar received a surge of interest from international and local investors looking to capitalise off this dream-like growth. Many have opened up the doors to their establishments already, only to find occupancy hindered by the inevitable downturn brought about by the Rakhine crisis and other industry-related factors. That’s not to say it was a bad time to invest however, we are starting to see signs of recovery and we predict it won’t be long until the best properties are once again in the fortunate position of being able to turn business away. From the tourist’s perspective, it’s also better than ever, seeing as there’s more variety and hotel prices have come down as a result of increased competition. With the likes of Rosewood, Excelsior and Wa Ale all set to make their mark, believe us when we say that, 2019’s going to have plenty of excitement in store.

The lobby of Yangon Excelsior, a themed colonial option in downtown

ARAKAN NATURE LODGE (GWA)

For a truly authentic eco-tourism experience,a stay the Arakan Nature Lodge in SouthernRakhine State is an environment-loving,culturally sensitive way to appreciate one ofMyanmar’s most beautiful, peaceful yet deprivedregions. The traditional Rakhine style housingwere planned and built individually with variouscarpenter teams from villages around. Thishas helped to ensure they’re all characterful,unique in-style and constructed using locallysourced, sustainable materials. The propertyis also powered 24/7 by solar power (no dieselgenerators here!) and in keeping with true ecolodge practise, guests will be required to useluxury self-composting toilets. The meals, allof which are included, are based on traditionalrecipes consisting of seafood and vegetables.They even have a clay oven in which to cook bread;eager bakers can of course lend a hand with this.

A LITTLE ECO LODGE (INLE LAKE)

Half a kilometre west of Nyaung Shwe town, you’llfind A Little Eco Lodge, one of Myanmar’s best boutique, family-run and genuinely responsible eco lodges. Set up by husband and wife team U Kyaw Swar and Ma Mee Mee, every bamboo pole, wooden plank and brick used for the construction of this property has been laid with purpose. Actively recruiting and training staff from the surrounding communities, A Little Eco Lodge does more than just cater for tourists. It’s effectively a hospitality training centre, providing myriad developmental opportunities to those employed. Alongside the accommodation it operates ‘A Little Loom’ weaving centre, the Tree House Restaurant, a well-equipped spa, cooking classes, trekking activities and a spacious organic vegetable garden. Needless to say, this makes spending two or three nights here easy to justify.

SALAY RIVER VIEW INN(SALAY)

Managed by passionate husband and wife team, Ma Khine and Dr. Tun, this boutique inn boasts 14 small, yet characterfully appointed guestrooms spread over two levels. Every one opens out onto a communal seating area, with views of the luscious green riverfront garden and the mighty meandering Irrawaddy. Salay River View Inn shares its space with Salay House, a lovingly restored colonial trader’s mansion, which currently serves as a restaurant, museum and gift shop; this is also owned by Ma Khine and Dr. Tun, so it’s technically the same property. The home-cooked al fresco breakfast here’s hard to beat, especially when the garden’s papaya and mango trees are bearing fruit. Most people visiting Salay do so as part of a day trip from Bagan, however, believe us when we say that, you will not experience the best of what this sleepy town has to offer unless you stay for one night or two.

HSITHE GUESTHOUSE(HSITHE VILLAGE)

A guesthouse is being built in Hsithe village as part of the Irrawaddy dolphin conservation project set up by the UK-based Harrison Institute. All being well, we will see its doors open as early as January 2019. On their Facebook page, Harrison Institute stated that, “It is a great opportunity to grow the scope and opportunities of carefully managed tourism to the village. It will however involve considerable training / education of the community to ensure that they can maximise the benefits in a sustainable manner whilst minimising any social or cultural risk. “As long-term supporters of the project, Tour Mandalay will be one of the first companies to test this and we look forward to writing a comprehensive review in due course.

ROSEWOOD(YANGON)

In what is arguably one of their most ambitious projects yet, Rosewood has transformed Rangoon’s colonial-era, former Police Commissioner’s Office into a 209 room five-star hotel with no expense spared. Think the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Raffles Singapore and Peninsula Hong Kong and you’ll quickly get an idea of the style and standard of hotel we’re talking. The Heritage Hotel Kempinski Yangon, with itsmajestic building, has been carefully restoredfrom the inside out, to preserve the spiritand grandeur of its origin. It will play host toglorious events, fascinating conversationsand global travellers’ dreams. It will pave theway to the revival of the city harbour, which isdestined to become a promenade lined withother reawakened architectural landmarks.

YANGON EXCELSIOR(YANGON)

Originally the headquarters of the Steel Brothers Company, the Yangon Excelsior is a themed heritage property with generous sprinkles of contemporary flair; think a combination of the Strand Hotel Yangon, Hotel G Yangon and COMO Metropolitan Bangkok. Being only a short walk from Sule Pagoda and Maha Bandula Park, the location is extremely central making it an ideal option for downtown exploration and dining out. With 74 rooms and suites, it’s a fairly sizeable property, but one that feels a lot smaller than it is thanks to excellent ergonomics, clever design, lots of personalisation and wonderfully attentive service. One thing we particularly like about the Yangon Excelsior is that they’re aiming to be plastic free (as much as they can in Yangon). This is a great initiative, which we hope more hotels in Myanmar will start to sign up to. It’s also a great example of what can be done to revitalise Yangon’s fading colonial heritage.

SOFITEL MYAT MIN(INLE LAKE)

Perched on the eastern bank of Inle Lake, and flanked by the low-lying mountain range behind, this 101-suite property is testament to the AccorHotels group’s growing influence and success in Myanmar. Granted, the style’s contemporary and won’t appeal to everyone’s taste, but that’s not to say it feels out of place. If Indonesia can have its Alila Uluwatu, Thailand can have its COMO Point Yamu and Vietnam can have its Banyan Tree Lang Co, why shouldn’t Myanmar have its Sofitel Myat Min? For us, this property is an embodiment of up-and-coming Myanmar, a Myanmar in which modernity and one of the world’s richest traditional cultures combine.

WA ALE(MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO)

This intimate and luxurious island retreat sits in a beautiful protected cove, overlooking a pristine beach and majestic rock formations. Here guests are invited to experience the natural beauty of the Myeik Archipelago and Lampi Island (Myanmar’s only marine national park) in a luxury resort that encourages responsible and sustainable care for the environment. Rates include, full board, non-alcoholic beverages, house wine, beer, internet and activities including paddle boarding, kayaking, snorkelling, jungle hikes and cultural visits. On Tuesdays and Saturdays transfers to the island will be provided on a complimentary basis. If you’re keen to recommend a resort that’s fresh, luxurious (in a barefoot luxury kind of way), responsible and has the potential to rival the likes of Soneva Kiri and Six Senses, why not give Wa Ale a try?

AWEI PILA(MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO)

As interest to explore the Mergui Archipelago increases, we are seeing the first land-based accommodation options open up here. Awei Pila is one of these, located on a 600-metre long beachfront in the north of Pila Island. Describing itself as ‘eco-chic’, Awei Pila is the latest venture of the Memories Group offering 26 tented yurt-style suites with light interiors, outdoor showers and either forest or sea views. The design of the pre-fabricated structures specifically allows for minimal impact on the environment. At the centre of the property is the airy restaurant, bar and swimming pool all with stunning views of the sea. For the adventurous, snorkelling, kayaking, hiking and village tours are available, otherwise, a spa is onsite for those who prefer to relax. Rates include breakfast, lunch, dinner and boat transfers from Kawthaung – a 1.5-hour journey.

LOTTE HOTEL(YANGON)

When you consider the build quality, price, lakeside location, view of Shwedagon (from the Premier Lake rooms) and its wealth of leisure and F&B facilities, Lotte Yangon literally towers over the modern-style four to five-star alternatives. Although it’s located outside of downtown on the western edge of Inya Lake, we believe this should also be viewed as a positive. First is that it’s quiet, second is that you get to experience a different side of the city, third is that it’s closer to Yangon’s best fine dining restaurants (SEEDS, Le Planteur and Shwe Sa Bwe), and last but not least, it’s much easier to get to and from the airport, making it an especially good option for anyone looking to overnight in Yangon at the end.

“In Yangon alone, approximately 20 million bags are used every day.”

SAY NO TO P L A S T I CWith an estimated 200 tonnes of plastic ending up in Myanmar’s rivers every day, and a lot more in landfill, Tour Mandalay feel it’s important to: 1) raise awareness of this and 2) look at ways we can curb our own plastic consumption.

If you would like to help out with this too, we would like to suggest purchasing our plastic reduction kit, which will be provided at cost. This will include the following:

A HANDWOVEN SHAN BAGIn Yangon alone, approximately 20 million bags are used every day.

A PALÜ BAMBOO STRAWIt takes up to 200 years for a plastic straw to decompose and there’s a good chance one will sneak its way into every cold beverage you order.

A REFILLABLE ALUMINIUM BOTTLEOne million plastic bottles are purchased around the world every minute and that number is expected to jump another 20% by 2021.

Curb plastic use w

ith Tour Mandalay’s plastic reduction pack

“We’ve made some exciting historical, cultural, culinary and responsible discoveries this year, which we hope will add

some extra spice to your Myanmar exploration.”

E X P L O -R A T I O NWe’ve made some exciting historical, cultural, responsible and culinary-related discoveries this year, which we hope will add some extra spice to your Myanmar exploration. In Yangon, follow in the footsteps of General Aung San’s assassins at The Secretariat, or as part of an extended tour, which incorporates the lives of other famous politicians including U Nu and U Thant. If history’s not your thing, how about helping to empower Yangon by visiting social enterprises such as Three Good Spoons, Flame Tree and the Yuwaddy Centre? In Mandalay, glamp on the banks of the Irrawaddy whilst searching for dolphins with co-operative fisherman. In Inle Lake, communicate using any means possible to source the ingredients required for a Little Eco Lodge’s cooking class. In Bagan, cycle along the rarely-visited western bank of the Irrawaddy, stay overnight at Salay River View Inn and return to the ancient capital via the eastern bank. Brief details of this and more can be found on the following pages.

Cooking up a storm

at ‘The Village’ cooking class in Pindaya

TANINTHARYI CBT DEVELOPMENT(TANINTHARYI)

Following extensive surveys in Tanintharyi, the ITC team and partners have now begun creative tourism and CBT product development in Dawei. Their plan is to i) complement the current image of the Tanintharyi region as a coastal tourism destination by developing ‘fishers’ life’ local community visits in the scenic village of Tizit; ii) expand the perception of Tanintharyi as a high quality ecotourism destination, by developing CBT in Kalontha, an inland community with spectacular, forested mountains and rivers, and iii) develop and promote historic Dawei towns’ rich potential for hands-on, cultural tourism activities.

LIVING IRRAWADDY DOLPHIN PROJECT

(MANDALAY)Living Irrawaddy is one of the fantastic projects currently underway on the rivers north of Mandalay and the only one offering overnight accommodation right on the river. Through education and an increased income, the social business works with seven cooperative fishing communities, helping to improve their livelihoods and conserve this fragile species. As well as day trips from Mandalay, Living Irrawaddy operates one and two night trips with the option to sleep overnight on the boat or on the riverbank in a yurt. Food, transport and all activities are provided by the local communities. Giving you the opportunity to support such a great cause and wake up on the banks of the Irrawaddy at the same time, Living Irrawaddy is one of the most exciting experiences currently on offer in Myanmar.

BIKES, BOATS, TRAINS AND CRAFT BEER

(YANGON)Waking at the crack of dawn whilst the temperature’s still cool, we’ll cycle from downtown to Dala, crossing the Yangon River using a public ferry. Proceed to explore the satellite township, whilst cycling through luscious green rice paddies, high-fiving excited locals and feasting on snacks at a social enterprise business that specialises in upcycling plastic waste. Pedal your way around an island village that sees few tourists, before embarking upon another boat journey back into downtown and the Uncharted Horizon office. After having recharged your batteries with a slap-up Burmese lunch, transfer to Yangon’s central station in time for the next train to Insein. Riding this short section will give you the opportunity to slow down the pace and travel shoulder to shoulder with the commercial capital’s everyday commuters. Conclude the day with a thirst-quenching pint of Myanmar produced craft beer at the Burbrit brewery in North Dagon.

EMPOWERING YANGON(YANGON)

With strained coffers and an urgent need to invest more into the country’s public services, healthcare and education systems, Myanmar’s government is unable to spend as much as it would ideally like on matters such as social welfare reform, recycling and gender inequality. Not wanting to rely on handouts and keen to grip the reins of their own future, we’re now witnessing the rise of some extraordinarily smart entrepreneurs, many of whom have chosen to invest their brains, time and money into establishing equally generous social enterprise projects. With the aim of giving you a small taste of this phenomenon, and to ensure your money goes towards a good cause, this leisurely full day tour focuses on visiting a small number of these social businesses and meeting with some of the fascinating individuals behind them.

A COLOURFUL WILDERNESS

(KAYAH STATE)Travel deep into the mountain ranges south of Loikaw to the remote village of Htay Ko. Predominantly inhabited by the Kayaw tribe, easily distinguishable thanks to their brightly coloured pink garments, a trip here will be sure to suit the real adventure enthusiast, or those simply looking to get off the beaten track. With the help of a community guide, we’ll aim to provide you with a non-intrusive insight into the Kayaw people’s age-old customs and traditional beliefs.

THREE GOOD SPOONS(YANGON)

Three Good Spoons is a social business that provides fee-based classes to help improve the kitchen skills, nutrition and hygiene awareness of housekeepers, domestic helpers and home cooks. Any profit made from this then goes towards funding the free and heavily subsidised hygiene, nutrition and cooking classes offered to disadvantaged and unemployed women. If this wasn’t already a good enough reason to get behind the brand, Three Good Spoons are now offering introductory Myanmar cooking classes to tourists and Yangon residents, with the aim of this being to generate an extra source of income that will help to further fund the social enterprise’s existing and future training initiatives. With a morning market visit and the chance to cook three typical Myanmar dishes, these classes will ensure you’re ready to impress both culinary and culturally at your next hosted dinner session.

HIDE AND SEEK(INLE LAKE)

Half a kilometre west of Nyaung Shwe town, you’ll find A Little Eco Lodge, one of Myanmar’s best boutique, family-run and genuinely responsible eco-lodges. Although it primarily functions as a guest house, it’s also home to one of the most culturally immersive Myanmar travel experiences out there, one that also doubles up as a cooking class. Without the help of a guide, explore a small settlement on the eastern side of Inle Lake with the aim of getting your hands on the key ingredients required to cook today’s lunch. Armed with a shopping list, some images and a few basic Myanmar phrases, will you be able to source everything you need before the time runs out?

THE SECRETARIAT(YANGON)

Yangon’s Secretariat, also known as the Ministers’ Building, was the home and former administrative capital of British Burma. Occupying a whole block, its formidable size and undeniable majestic beauty were surely a sign that the British were here to stay, or so they thought. General Aung San (Daw Aung San Suu Kyi’s father) and his Thirty Comrades effectively put an end to that when they sided with the Japanese midway through World War II. The independence hero’s success was short lived however; four assassins broke into the Secretariat on 19th July 1947, brutally gunning down General Aung San and eight other individuals in their wake. This then set off a chain of events, which the country’s still yet to recover from to this day. The Secretariat is a symbol of what was, what is and what’s yet to come; whilst exploring the compound on this shared public tour, we’ll get the opportunity to discuss this and much, much more.

WILD BURMA(NGAPALI)

When people think of hot air ballooning in Myanmar, it’s likely that the Bagan experience springs to mind. Although there’s no denying this is still one of the best classic experiences on offer, due to the large number of tourists it attracts, it may not appeal to those looking for something more personal and exclusive in nature. In late 2015, Oriental Ballooning expanded their services to include flights over Ngapali, a destination perhaps more famous for its seafood restaurants, white sand and emerald blue waters. Set up by the same pilots that helped the BBC capture overhead jungle footage for Wild Burma, a three-part documentary released in 2013, those lucky enough to do this will get access to a splendidly remote side of Myanmar fewer than 0.1% of travellers will ever lay eyes on. Thought Ngapali was just about sun, sea and sand? Think again.

THE VILLAGE COOKING EXPERIENCE

(PINDAYA)Located on the outskirts of Pindaya you’ll find Thit Ael Pin, a sleepy farming village, which is now home to one of the best all round cooking classes in the country. Set up by a local entrepreneur and self-confessed foodie, the three-hour course will see you cook traditional Myanmar or Danu dishes before pairing them with a glass of locally produced wine.

ANAWRAHTA’S FAVOURITE FOUR

(BAGAN)Legend has it that, Anawrahta Minsaw, the founder of the Pagan Empire and the so-called father of the Burmese nation, received one of Lord Buddha’s tooth relics from the King of Ceylon (Sri Lanka). Eager to encourage the spread of Theravada Buddhism across the country, the most ancient branch of the religion, Anawrahta prayed for three more tooth relics, which he would later arrange to have enshrined in four pagodas. In order to determine the location of these, King Anawrahta ordered a white elephant to roam Bagan’s plains; wherever it stopped to rest would be the site of the monument. This superstition then led to the creation of Tant Kyi Taung, Shwezigon, Lawka Nandar and Tu Yin Taung. Looking to follow in the footsteps of Anawrahta’s white elephant and the much smaller ones made by local pilgrims, we’ll aim to visit all four of the pagodas in one day; by doing so, you’ll also be granted a wish. Superstition aside, there’s no denying the cultural, historical and religious significance of King Anawrahta and the featured sites; we’ll seek to learn about this and more during the course of this full day tour.

BAGAN TO SALAY IN 100K(BAGAN AND SALAY)

A two-day bike tour from Myanmar’s iconic Bagan plain, a trip full of adventure and discovery which explores this fascinating and little-visited region between Bagan and Salay, travelling the best way possible, by bike and boat, far from the tourist trail. You’ll even get the chance to stay overnight at one of our favourite properties, Salay River View Inn.

PEGU CLUB(YANGON)

The Pegu Club, a Victorian-style gentleman’s club, which was once arguably the most famous of its kind in South East Asia, will re-open this month. Having snuck inside this morning, making us the first DMC to do so, we were delighted to see how sensitively the venue’s being restored. At present we are not able to provide you with any exact details about how the space will be utilised, but we do know there will be a bar, restaurant and there were even talks of invite-only tours and high tea. In the meantime, hopefully the following images will help to whet the appetite.

“73% of children in Myanmar’s orphanages actually have living family members”

ORPHANAGE T O U R I S MVisiting an orphanage has become a popular practise for well-intentioned travellers looking to give a bit of their time and money to a seemingly worthwhile cause. Unfortunately, studies show that it has the potential to cause more harm than good however and we would like to request our travellers to avoid. 73% of children in Myanmar’s orphanages actually have living family members, but myriad factors ranging from extreme poverty to disability have caused them to be admitted. A staggering amount of research confirms that living with a poor family is infinitely better than not having one at all, which is why we believe fuelling the demand for more orphanages and orphans is not the solution. As Cambodia’s witnessed, this is inevitably what happens when money’s involved and there’s limited, if any, regulation in place. UNICEF and Hanns Seidel Foundation Myanmar have published some excellent work on this, which we would be more than happy to forward.

Let’s work together to stamp orphanage tourism out

“There are many advantages this regional and international diversity brings when

it comes to cuisine.”

WINING AND D I N I N GPutting the inevitable complications of uniting myriad ethnic groups and peacefully sharing borders with five countries aside, there are many advantages this regional and international diversity brings when it comes to cuisine. Nowhere is this more evident than in Myanmar’s commercial capital, Yangon. In the last few years alone, we’ve seen regionally inspired restaurants such as Jana Mon (Mon), Root (Wa) and Mu Ai (Kachin) spring up, alongside internationally inspired ones such as Green Gallery (Thai), Indian Thadka (Indian) and Toh Lim (Chinese). On top of that, we’ve also seen an emergence of restaurants serving polished Myanmar dishes, such as Rangoon Tea House and Burma Bistro; traditionalists may claim these are not authentic, but we admire their attempt to create visually stunning dishes whilst reducing oil content. We’ve also seen a small handful of professional chefs return to the country with the aim of showcasing their new-found culinary skills and spearheading a food revolution.

Myanm

ar Beer, probably one of the best beers in South East Asia

MU AI(YANGON)

One of a string of ethnic restaurants to open recently, Mu Ai is certainly the best at showcasing the diverse cuisine of Myanmar’s most northern state, Kachin. Don’t be fooled by first impressions, the restaurant’s simple appearance and local feel ensures that the food is the star of the show here. Cleverly featuring spicy, sour, herby and tangy flavours, some seriously well-cooked meat and of course, the staple shat jam (Kachin vegetable rice), there isn’t a bad dish on the menu. Best of all, it comes at an extremely reasonable price. Mu Ai is located north of downtown in the bustling township of Hledan.

TREEHOUSE RESTAURANT(INLE LAKE)

Certainly one of the most striking creations we’ve seen in Myanmar, the Treehouse Restaurant is not only beautifully designed but also completely sustainable. At the heart of A Little Eco Lodge just outside Nyaung Shwe, the architecturally-designed building is made entirely of bamboo and handmade by local craftsmen. Climb up the steep stairs to the open top level of the restaurant and enjoy views over the farm and simple food that is just as inspiring, all coming from either the family garden onsite or from the surrounding area. The warm unfussy service provided by U Kyaw Swar, Ma Mee Mee or their friendly staff make the Treehouse Restaurant a must-do whether you are staying at a Little Eco Lodge or elsewhere in Inle Lake.

NEW SIMPLE LIFE(KALAW)

Sleepy Kalaw has seen some great little restaurants popping up recently and New Simple Life is one of the standouts. In a quaint, green setting you’ll find an Italian-inspired menu featuring plentiful salads, pastas and pizzas cooked in an outdoor wood-fired oven, made with fresh, local ingredients. New Simple Life is the creation of Ma Sandar, who regularly had travellers arriving from other parts of the country craving fresh, healthy cuisine; nearly everything is handmade on site. She is also passionate about job creation and skills development which are at the heart of the restaurant. By taking in and training juniors, her business has become almost a social enterprise in the community. Located on a narrow, hilly road on the outskirts of town it can be a little tricky to find but it is definitely worth the effort.

SPROUTING SEEDS(KALAW)

This casual vegetarian café perfectly reflects Kalaw’s laid back feel. Their focus is on homemade bread, ice cream, yoghurt and cakes but they also serve healthy salads, sandwiches, light Asian dishes, herbal teas, juices and good coffee. This is one of a handful of restaurants in the country that caters to vegans. Enjoy the outdoor garden space or lounge on the couches inside, the café has a small selection of books and board games, and an eco-store featuring local produce and handicrafts for sale. The café is only part of what Sprouting Seeds do – all profits support their youth and community training programmes, empowering local communities to preserve their customs and traditions and live sustainably. They also offer yoga and cooking classes.

HOSTEL PICASSO(KALAW)

Hostel Picasso is an unassuming restaurant, located opposite the railway station, which serves some excellent, no-frills, Mexican cuisine. There is nothing particularly special about the simple setting and the menu is limited but Chef Min, classically trained with experience in high-end hotels in Abu Dhabi and Myanmar, crafts a quality selection of tasty tacos, quesadillas and nachos. The portions are very good value for their size, but they are on the small side, so we’d suggest hungry guests order a little more than usual. In addition, the friendly, relaxed staff are attentive without being overbearing and are happy to chat – as is the very hospitable Chef Min if he is around – so with a glass of cold beer, Hostel Picasso is a nice spot to while away an hour or two.

BLIND TIGER(YANGON)

The closest thing to a modern-day speakeasy, the Blind Tiger is securing a reputation for its characterful interior, cool music and excellent cocktails. Behind the door with the paw, the building’s high ceiling is taken advantage of with restaurant-style seating on the lower level and narrow stairs leading to a more private, balcony-type area above. Although the tapas menu is worth trying, the highlight is the cocktails which are unique and can also be tailor-made; just let the bar tender know your preferences and they can create something specifically to your liking. Decorating the space is a selection of interesting art work which not only looks great but is also for sale. Perfectly suited to pre-dinner drinks or a nightcap, the Blind Tiger is on Seik Kan Thar road (on the corner of Merchant Street) in downtown.

BYBLOS(YANGON)

Byblos’ take on Mediterranean cuisine and its laid-back setting have proved a huge hit with Yangonites. Situated in Yangon’s wealthy Golden Valley area, it is one of the few places where tourists, locals and expats all mingle together, something that is largely lacking in the city. The restaurant serves an extensive menu of dips, breads and assorted tapas, great salads, pasta, a selection of grilled and oven-baked dishes and excellent pizzas. Behind this is a sectioned-off bar with pool table, darts board with all-important sports shown on TV. One of the main drawcards is the interior which is entirely fitted-out with quality furniture and traditional pieces, mostly from reclaimed wood, by the well-known company Chindits who, conveniently, also have a showroom next door. Byblos is well-suited for a relaxed dinner or a few drinks but do expect it to become quite lively in the evenings.

SPOONS SUPPER(YANGON)

We’ve long been supporters of Three Good Spoons’ cooking classes – a great way to learn the secrets of Myanmar cuisine while supporting a fantastic cause at the same time – and we are just as excited about The Spoons Suppers. Run in the spirit of a monthly supper club for a maximum of 12 people, themes vary from vegetarian to Moroccan, to Mexican or satay. Sometimes they are also run in collaboration with pop up restaurants or special guest chefs. Besides the great food, the real highlight of these dinners is the interesting people you’ll have the opportunity to meet. Although the schedule is often released on short notice, if you are able to spare one of your evenings whilst in Yangon, a supper at Three Good Spoons is not to be missed.

GREEN GALLERY(YANGON)

In a narrow side street in the heart of downtown Yangon you’ll find a hidden gem serving up what is arguably the city’s best Thai cuisine. The vision of Bo, a repat who spent over 15 years living in Thailand, everything about Green Gallery exudes love and passion. The interior is small and simple, catering to a maximum of about 30 at a time, with simple wooden chairs and benches. The kitchen follows suit with a remarkable number of dishes created in a tiny space. Green Gallery is known for its convivial atmosphere with funky music playing in the background and friends old and new catching up over delicious, great value food. Green Gallery is our go-to Thai option in Yangon and we wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it to visitors.

BODHI NAVA(YANGON)

The second instalment from the team behind Yangon’s favourite Thai restaurant, Green Gallery, Bodhi Nava is one of the few simple, healthy and reasonably-priced options in the city. Located in a sleepy residential street, the restaurant is bright, minimalist and quite trendy, featuring upcycled furniture and quirky photography. The menu follows suit with fresh takes on traditional Thai dishes, some inventive Myanmar-Thai fusions and good coffee and cakes to finish. For a relaxed lunch or dinner, or just a stop for tea, Bodhi Nava is a great addition to Yangon’s food scene and can easily be incorporated into touring, being just a short walk from Shwedagon Pagoda.

ATLAS(YANGON)

Fast becoming one of Yangon’s most stylish hangouts, ATLAS wouldn’t look out of place in Bangkok, Singapore or even Hong Kong. Located on the 12th floor above the busy streets of Sanchaung township, and offering a 360-degree city panorama, it’s not just the views that have established its popularity. ATLAS is upmarket, with creative, well-prepared cocktails, friendly but professional service and most importantly, a laid back, unpretentious vibe. An extension of the German restaurant Malhzeit, located in the same building, traditional German fare is served here too along with a selection of finger food and snacks if you’re feeling peckish. Perfect for a special occasion or simply to take that all-important selfie, ATLAS is the best of rooftop in the city and an exciting sign of an up and coming, new Yangon.

“On average, Myanmar is losing one wild elephant every week.”

“On average, Myanmar is losing one wild elephant every week.”

VOICES FOR M O M O S In late 2017, the Voices for Momos campaign was launched in response to a sudden spike in elephant poaching. On average, Myanmar is losing one wild elephant every week. Having bee killed and skinned, their hide and tusks are reduced to parts, transported across borders and sold illegally at markets. Some of these products make their way back into Myanmar, especially ivory, and evidence of this can even be found at some of the most popular tourist attractions including Shwedagon, Bogyoke Market and the Golden Rock. According to a study carried out by WWF, accessories made of ivory and elephant bones were mostly being sold with jade in Bogyoke Market, while in Shwedagon, ivory statues and other wildlife items such as combs made of tortoise shells were found. With some big names including WWF, WCS, the Smithsonian Institution and hopefully yourselves backing this, it will be sure to drive awareness, increase education and call for the end of illegal wildlife trade in Myanmar.

A retired elephant at Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp in Kalaw

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