Antiquing SAA Revolver

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Antiquing a SAA Revolver In this tutorial I have taken a Great Western II Californian 45 Colt and applied antiquing with two methods. In the first part you can get a clean blue free gun that has the appearance of being old. The advantage to this first method it the amount of time spent on the project (about two-three hours) and being able to keep the gun rust free. The disadvantages are the gun still really is shiny and has no age character. The second method is more involved but results in a gun that really has an antique look. I don't beat the metal or let it pit so in reality it could be re-blued at a later time and would look new again. This project is fairly simple, as you really can’t mess up. If you antique too much, work off the rust with 0000 Steel wool and WD-40. Be sure to try and keep the cylinder and bore clean during this operation. Also take care to keep the inside areas of the frame free from rust. In this tutorial be aware that the chemicals used can cause injury if you aren’t careful. Follow all the directions on the labels.

Transcript of Antiquing SAA Revolver

Page 1: Antiquing SAA Revolver

Antiquing a SAA Revolver

In this tutorial I have taken a Great Western II Californian 45 Colt and applied antiquing with two

methods. In the first part you can get a clean blue free gun that has the appearance of being old. The

advantage to this first method it the amount of time spent on the project (about two-three hours) and

being able to keep the gun rust free. The disadvantages are the gun still really is shiny and has no age

character.

The second method is more involved but results in a gun that really has an antique look. I don't beat the

metal or let it pit so in reality it could be re-blued at a later time and would look new again.

This project is fairly simple, as you really can’t mess up. If you antique too much, work off the rust with

0000 Steel wool and WD-40. Be sure to try and keep the cylinder and bore clean during this operation.

Also take care to keep the inside areas of the frame free from rust.

In this tutorial be aware that the chemicals used can cause injury if you aren’t careful. Follow all the

directions on the labels.

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I use Vinegar as a blue remover for the following reasons. It does a relatively quick job of removing the

blue for a tiny fraction of Blue and rust remover costs and is safe to use. You can supplement ingredients

I have listed if you like. You just need to get the end goal.

The items I used in this project are as follows.

First Method:

1 Gallon of common cheap white vinegar.

WD-40

Birchwood Casey Degreaser

0000 Steel Wool

Plastic or Glass Tray

Second Method:

1 Gallon of common cheap white vinegar.

WD-40

Birchwood Casey Degreaser

Birchwood Casey Perma Blue

Birchwood Casey Plum Browning

0000 Steel Wool

Plastic or Glass Tray

Small bristle brush

Let’s get started. Please forgive me for totally and utterly desecrating this brand new EMF Great

Western II Single Action. I wanted to use this gun as it was a perfect example and had no wear or

damage (until I got my hands on it).

Disassemble the revolver and use the degreaser on all the parts to be antiqued. This can be done with

paper towels.

Set the hand, bolt and internal springs, trigger, center pin, and cylinder bushing aside. These parts will

NOT get antiqued. Get the plastic or glass tray and place the frame and barrel, backstrap, trigger guard,

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ejector rod and housing, and all exposed screws in the container. Now completely cover the parts with the

vinegar and forget about it.

It will take anywhere from ½ hour to 2 hours to dissolve the bluing, just check from time to time on the

progress.

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As you can see in the photograph the blue comes off pretty quick. If you want anything less than the

finish removed you should use a paper towel or rag and wipe the parts until you get the desired results.

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If you use Birtchwood Casey Blue and rust remover it is INSTANT! As soon as the solution contacts the

gun it blue is gone.

The Vinegar is slower, more controllable and takes nearly all the case colors but leaves a trace, which is

desired.

(Stop before next step if you are using method two and scroll down for those instructions)

When you are satisfied with the results rinse in hot water, reassemble without the innards and place in a

glass tray in a heated oven (200 degrees) to dry the gun. After cooling disassemble and reassemble lubing

all the parts as you go. Finish with Steel wool and oil or WD-40.

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This completes method one. If you want to see the pictures of the finished gun go to photos at the end.

Method 2:

Lets back up to when you are satisfied with the results, rinse in hot water, use the Birtchwood Casey

Perma Blue all over the gun, especially in all the protected areas. Place the parts in a glass tray in a

heated oven (300 degrees) to get the metal to the point water will sizzle on the surface of the gun.

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Be sure to try and keep the cylinder and bore clean during this operation. Also take care to keep the

inside areas of the frame free from rust.

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Be prepared with the Plum brown solution and a small bristle brush to apply it.

It is very important to take the gun from the oven and move it to a well ventilated (Outside is good) area

before appling the browning because some real bad fumes result when the solution hits the metal. THIS

IS REAL IMPORTANT if you want to continue Cowboy Action Shooting without a ventilator.

Apply the browning liberally and cover every area, Let the solution sit for 1-2 minutes and spray with

WD-40. The metal will still be too hot so let it cool. Next take a wad of 0000 Steel wool and scrub the gun

taking the surface rust off and leaving the brown in the protected areas. I can’t tell you what to take off.

It is up to your creative instincts now. Degreasing again and heating the metal with a propane torch and

applying more brown and taking it off will accomplish the desired results.

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Be sure to keep cylinders and base pin hole clean

Photos of finished gun below:

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RIP, pard!