All About Iguanas by John Davis

"Don't be ridiculous!" several of my friends said to me months ago when I told them that, based on the odd behavior of my iguana and three of my snakes, we were going to have an earthquake. Which we did, two days later on Wednesday afternoon and early on the following Friday morning. The following weekend I brought my iguana along on a trip to Northern California. His behavior was again abnormal and, yes, there was an earthquake early Sunday morning.

Behavior observation has been used by man for thousands of years to learn and track changes in the weather and the seasons. Some scientists are also tracking animal behavior data as another variable in the difficult task of predicting quakes. Long-term primate observations by Goodall, Fossey and Galdikas (to name but a few) ha e added to our body of knowledge and revised our thinking about how our remote ancestors may have acted, and interacted, with each other and their environment.

Observing behavior is an integral part of our life when we have children or animals. Consciously or not, you see your child is unusually cranky or quiet, subdued or hyperactive. Observing the behavior of animals is no different. Through careful observation over an extended time, we notice physical changes: a subtle color change, change in appetite, in sleeping patterns, the amount of water drunk or frequency of drinking or soaking, excessive grooming or lack of it; apathy, dull eyes, skin or coat; wheezing, thin clear mucous in the mouth and around the nostrils. Interactive behavior may also change, with the animal seeking more or less contact with you or other animals, restlessness, roaming, hiding, searching, abnormal mild or severe aggression towards you or others in your family - these changes tell us that something is wrong.

As animals cannot communicate verbally, we must determine if the cause is external, such as change inthe home or other physical environment, or a physiological disease or illness manifesting itself. Havingspent more time interacting with mammals, most people see nothing but a blank stare when faced with a reptile, especially with snakes, and so do not recognize signs of illness or unease, of contentment or boredom.

The very idea of snakes and lizards having distinct personalities--of being individuals--strikes many people as completely crazy. Those of us who recognize such distinctions in our reptiles are not stuck in some Disneyized version of Rudyard Kipling's stories. I have found that when someone considers reptiles as "things," they are unable to see any differences in the animals. Many people are unable to see anything but some generic frightening creature from a horror show. Those of us who interact with our reptiles as others do with a bird or mammal see reptiles as individuals with specific preferences andattitudes.

People who buy relatively inexpensive reptiles and amphibians are unlikely to buy the equipment and supplies required to keep that animal healthy and alive. An iguana may have cost only $30, but the tankwill cost $75 to $100, a Vitalite bulb and hood $50, a light bulb for additional heat and a reflector housing another $18. Since most people won't even spend the $30 or so needed to set up a $5 lizard properly, it is no wonder that the majority of reptiles sold in this country die within their first 12 monthsin captivity.

I presently have 49 reptiles (including 20 iguanas), five birds and a couple of invertebrate feeder colonies. Most of these animals are rescue animals, coming from an environment in which they were

abused or neglected, or no longer wanted because they were no longer "cute." Except for the crickets, beetles and worms, each of my animals is recognizable by his or her appearance and behavior - how each responds to being handled, when meeting strangers, in noisy, active crowds and in how they explore their world.

Most of us who work with rescued reptiles and amphibians would really rather not have all of these animals. But as long as people indiscriminately buy them, we will end up taking care of their mistakes, animals disposed of with little more thought than they give to putting out the garbage.

Unfortunately, most people spend more time thinking about buying inanimate things such as cars, televisions and toys than they spend thinking about buying a living being. The viewing of reptiles and amphibians as "things" has led the public and, sadly, many people in the pet trade, to treat these animalsas disposable items. "Things" do not feel, have needs, or think. When "things" break (or die), they can be thrown out and replaced. Being cold-blooded, reptiles and amphibians can take a very long time to die. With so many dying within a couple of years of purchase, most people assume that the "thing" has lived out its life, not realizing that lack of care was responsible.

To my mind, impulse buys should be saved for things like bittersweet chocolate, not animals. Caring for an animal is an investment in the future, a path to personal growth. I feel privileged to share my home, and a significant portion of my time and limited financial resources, with reptiles and amphibians, no less than I did when I was owned by cats and dogs and a variety of other mammals.

So, your folks won't let you have a reptile...

©1997 Melissa Kaplan

Even when armed with all the information, including understanding that not all reptiles are dangerous, many parents are still unwilling to get a reptile for their kids, or allow their children to get a reptile. There may be many reasons for this, including knowing their kids well enough to know that a reptile may all too likely be a passing fad and being unwilling to take on the care of the reptile themselves (you may not think your folks have much of a life, but their days are probably overfilled with things to do as it is!). They may understand the financial commitments--and uncertainty--that a pet (or another pet) means, and may not feel they are able or are willing to make that commitment at this time.

So, what can you do besides whine, wheedle, beg and just generally make a pest of yourself?

Be responsibleStart showing responsibility and commitment by paying greater attention to schoolwork and household chores, etc. If you already have assigned chores, do them enthusiastically and without complaint. Get your homework done on time; don't wait till the last minute to get to the library or hit the 'net to do your research, leave your homework at home, or run the thermometer under hot water to get out of going to school because you didn't study for that big test.

If you have been telling your parents that you will be conscientious about caring for a reptile, they will want to see you demonstrate that commitment by seeing you do the things you already need to do, and

doing them when they need to be done. When your reptile's cage needs to be cleaned, or it needs to be fed or watered or have the heat light replaced, it can't wait - you need to get right on it. If you typically procrastinate and find other things to do, putting off what needs to be done, there is no reason for your parents to expect that you will be any different when it comes to caring for an animal of any type.

Do some researchStart researching different species, including their care, availability in the pet trade, their good points and weak points as a pet, common health problems, temperament, the cost of an individual animal plus the costs associated with proper housing, feeding, vet care, and anticipated future expenses as the reptile outgrows its first enclosure.

While the total cost of any reptile far exceeds the reptile's sticker price, what it costs to set up a reptile in New York city may be very different than what it costs in Redding, California. What you need to do to research out housing expenses is to go to several local pet stores, pad of paper in hand, and start making some notes. Even the most easy-to-care-for reptile has some very specific requirements. Depending on what type you decide to get, basic equipment and furnishings include:

Suitably sized enclosure (depending on the species, may need to start with anything from a 10-60 gallon tank)

Securely fitted and lockable top if the tank isn't already furnished with one

Proper substrate, including what you need to replace it after cleaning the tank

Hide boxes or caves

Climbing branches, bark slabs, logs

Undertank heating device

Overhead radiant heating device, one for day and one for night

UVB-producing fluorescent light and fixture (for lizards and chelonians requiring UVB for calcium metabolism)

Lamp timer to automate the day lights

Power switch or outlet extender to provide enough outlets for the electrical equipment (need 2-4 outlets)

Water bowl

Feeding bowl or plate

Food (if you have an insect eater, you may also need to set up housing and provide proper food and water for a couple of colonies of feeder insects); calculate monthly expenses, including anticipated increased based on your reptile's increased intake as it grows

Multivitamin and calcium supplements

Cleaning and disinfecting supplies (no, they are not the same thing...!)

Many people figure they can skimp on the enclosure size or delay in getting the equipment their animalneeds. The problem is, the reptile needs the proper heating, lighting, substrate, food, etc., now ! All too often, owners find that they end up with a dead reptile. Or they may end up having to spend hundreds of dollars in veterinary expenses and the cost of the equipment they should have bought to begin with...and still their reptile may be too far gone to make it.

For veterinary expenses, check with the local herpetological society or wildlife rescue group to see whothe good reptile vets are in your area, then call their offices. You don't need to actually talk to the vet as the office staff can tell you how much an initial exam for a new patient, a fecal flotation and worming medicine is (which is what you can expect to pay for any new reptile who is basically healthy but needsto be wormed).

If you can't save enough from your allowance, birthday gifts and after school jobs to not only get everything your reptile needs to start with, and to get all the replacements it is going to need (replacing burned out bulbs, vitamins, food supplies, substrate, cleaning/disinfecting supplies, annual replacement of the UVB tubes, etc.) in addition to what you are going to have to pay for the animal itself, and your parents are not willing to chip in or carry the full cost themselves, don't get it. It is not fair to the reptile to subject it to inadequate housing, food and care just because you desperately want to have it.

By the way, "do some research" doesn't mean posting on a newsgroup or message board or emailing someone demanding "tell me everything you know about [species] so my mom will let me have one" or"how much does a corn snake cost?" While the information and resources available through the Internetshould be a part of your research, it should not, and cannot, if you are doing a thorough job, be the onlyresource you tackle in finding out everything you can about the care and keeping of the reptiles you areinterested in.

Get your parents involvedAsk your folks to attend herp society meetings with you. This will give both of you some time together to focus on other aspects of herpetology/herpetoculture, including finding and making use of local resources and meeting other herpers. This latter can be most effective as your folks will be able to meetother parents of kids your age and will be able to pick their brains - just as you will be able to pick the kids' brains. And, just in case your parents think all herpers are a buncha tattooed biker dope fiends, they will be pleasantly surprised to find that herpers come in all persuasions, representing both genders,all ages, backgrounds, and walks of life. The herp society can also be great place to find locally bred reptiles.

Be adult: prepare to compromiseEspecially if it is your folks who will be providing the money for your reptile and its care! While all of your hard work and stick-to-it-iveness and research skills and powers of assimilation (putting all the facts and information you got together into a form that allowed you to start making some comparisons

and decisions - see? and you didn't think you were learning anything important in school!) may have convinced your parents that you were mature and responsible enough for a reptile, the fact that they aregoing to be paying for some or all of it means that your decision on what to get is going to have to be tempered by what they will allow in the house.

As above, don't whine, wheedle, beg, or complain. Do it enough, and your folks just may change their minds! Instead, roll with their decision. Start off nice and slow. You may be one of the lucky ones whose reptiles grow on their parents, leading to more reptiles, like the ones you wanted to get to begin with, a year or more down the line.

Dealing with realityA big problem comes up when you go away for the weekend or longer. If your parents aren't willing to care for your animal of choice, don't get it. Unless, of course, you never plan on going to camp, off on aschool trip, spend the night at a friend's house, or college! Even snakes need to be looked in on regularly and their enclosures cleaned. Just telling your folks to leave it till you get home isn't very practical, especially since many reptiles like to poop in their water bowl or on their food...

Remember that, even with all the research you did, and no matter how prepared you were for that reptile, it is still going to be a learning experience for you. You are going to need to learn how to adjust your own schedule and responsibilities to fit in the care your reptile needs, the handling sessions, cage cleaning days, getting food for it, monitoring the equipment to make sure it is working all right, etc.

Many reptiles should be handled regularly. Not only does it give them exercise they wouldn't ordinarilyget in their enclosure, but it provides mental stimulation for them, too. Just think about how crazy you'dget if you had to stay in your room all day (with most of the fun stuff taken out, including radio, television, your computer and hand-held video games), day after day after day, week after week, monthafter month. That, unfortunately, is what happens to too many reptiles that kids get. Football or soccer or whatever season starts, practice starts taking up what time isn't spent eating, studying and kicking back with your friends, and pretty soon your reptile starts getting snappy or hissy when you finally think to go take it out for awhile, so you put it away again. Just as it isn't fair to the reptile to start out with anything less than the enclosure and equipment it needs, so too isn't it fair to leave many of them completely alone except for when you remember to feed, water and clean.

Plan for the futureIf you agree to be responsible for your reptile, including getting to the store to get food, and taking it to the vet, keep in mind that your choice of reptile needs to be limited to its eventual size. You can't exactly take a 10 ft boa or 5 ft lizard on the bus or bicycle to get to the vet, and bag of dead rats or rabbits slung over your book rack on the back of your bike may get a bit messy and smelly on your wayhome, and the live ones may eat their way out of the bag or box before you get there.

Planning on going away to college and living away from home? If you are planning on living in studenthousing with your reptile, you may need to think again. Most college and university dorms and student housing prohibit the keeping of any pets; some specifically prohibit reptiles, or certain reptiles. Think you can just sneak yours in? Read the fine print and think again. Housing facilities staff generally have the right to enter student rooms without the student present or any advance notification given. If you

are renting a house or an apartment, landlords can do the same thing if there is something like leaky plumbing to be fixed. Think your friends won't rat you out? Think again...it just takes one ticked off friend or acquaintance to tell the wrong person that you have been hiding a 15 ft python in your closet. Too many students end up with very sick animals because they aren't able to provide the right environment, diet, or veterinary care for it, or are faced with finding a home for themselves or their reptile within 24 hours once the facilities staff finds out and gives notice of eviction.

Your folks still say no...Accept it. For now, at least. You can always try again next year, using the year in between to work on anything that needs to be worked on (proclaiming your maturity to your folks while whining, stamping your foot, and slamming the door probably isn't going to convince them that you are as mature as you say you are...!) In the meantime, you can still keep up with the reptile world, attending herp society meetings, reading herp magazines, participating in herp forums online. It is a good time to start putting aside some money regularly, saving up for when you will need it for your herp.

And, if worse comes to terrible, and your parents can't be swayed while you are living under their roof, don't despair. The time will come when you will be on your own, with all the joys and not-so-joys of maintaining your own household and vehicle, and earning your own money to pay for it all. Then you can indulge yourself and get that reptile you've always wanted. And, who knows? Having one then maybe a great way to keep your folks from dropping in unexpectedly!

After fielding literally hundreds of "iguana calls" on the NOAH [Northern Ohio Association of Herpetologists] Information Line, I have developed the following guidelines that would be useful if you wish to kill an iguana.

First of all, you must purchase a hatchling from your local pet shop that deals mostly with fish, birds and small mammals. You may even want to buy from a dealer at a swap meet that has many wild-caught animals. Be sure to choose the very smallest iguana at the bottom of the pile of 50 to 100 hatchlings, one that is real tame and just lays in your hand. Don't buy an iguana that tries to jump out ofyour hand, bite you or whip you with its tail. Better yet, why not buy two iguanas (they're cheap) so they can keep each other company? Remember, don't buy one of those bright eyed "wild" iguanas.

Don't buy a book on iguana care. You don't want to waste those few extra bucks. Your friends have had several iguanas and they can tell you how to take care of one. Of course, none of those iguanas lasted more than a few months. Never talk to an experienced herpetologist! They often tell you more than youwant to know.

Buy a small plastic cage or a ten gallon aquarium. Your friends told you that if you keep the iguana in asmall cage it won't get too big. You've seen iguanas that were two years old and only about ten inches long.

Now you need a heat source. A hot rock sounds like a good idea. The guy from the pet shop said that you had to have a hot rock. Your friend said that his iguana loved his hot rock so much that he stayed on it all the time. He did notice one day that the iguana's belly was burned, though. Certainly the iguana

would get off the hot rock if it were hot enough to burn him. Never use a thermometer in the cage - justguess whether it's warm enough. After all, digestion of food in reptiles has nothing to do with cage temperature.

What about a light? You remember hearing that iguanas need a light. Don't but a Vitalite®, with proper UV rays; they're too expensive and you'll have to replace it every six months or so. Get one of those inexpensive plant lights. If they help plants grow, why wouldn't they be good for an iguana?

A substrate is the next best thing. Maybe some cedar chips. That will keep the smell of stool down. Gravel or sand might even work. Then you won't be able to see the stool...it will just sink to the bottom.Never use newspaper or astroturf. They have to be changed too frequently. And speaking about cleanliness, never disinfect the cage with a bleach solution.

Don't provide any climbing areas, such as branches. Don't even try to find out what type of natural habitat the animal originates from. After all, it's in captivity now.

When you get the iguana home, be sure to handle it a lot right away. Carry it around on your shoulder and show it to all your friends. They'll be impressed with how tame it is, since it just sits there. They'll probably remark how cute it is and go get one themselves. After all, everybody has one and they're easyto take care of. Why even the five-year-old down the street has one. He even kisses his iguana. Why not? They're clean. Only turtles carry salmonella, right?

Feeding is a simple matter. Just go to the grocery store and get the food the iguana will eat. Offer him lots of iceberg lettuce, bananas, and dog or cat food. Lots of spinach and broccoli is good, too. It's not agood idea to supplement the iguana's diet with vitamins and minerals, but if you must, don't pay any attention to whether the iguana actually eats the food the supplement is sprinkled on. If the iguana doesn't eat, don't worry; he must just not be hungry. Or maybe he's eating food when you're gone. You really never have seen him eat, though. That's okay; you've always heard that reptiles don't eat much food anyways.

If you do give your iguana water (even though you've heard that they get all the water they need from their food), don't change the water very often. It's okay to leave the stool in the water bowl until you getaround to cleaning it.

After a month or two you may notice that your little iguana is moving around less than he ever did. He seems to drag his rear legs and his spine is a little crooked. Don't be concerned, though; his arms and legs look real chubby and they're rock solid, so he must be okay. Oh, and those tiny red specks that you see moving around on him...don't give them a second thought.

And for heaven's sake, don't ever take an iguana to a veterinarian who is familiar with reptiles. That would cost much more than you ever paid for the animal. Besides, dogs and cats are the only animal one ever takes to a vet. Can reptiles really suffer and feel pain anyhow?

And last but not least, if you finally succeed in killing your iguana, then just go out and get another oneand try again. The first one may have been sick when you got it.

Melissa Kaplan writes:The above article was reprinted in the August 1994 issue of News from the North Bay, newsletter of theNorth Bay Herpetological Society, with some commentary by me:

I received the NOAH newsletter in mid-July, read this article, and promptly got hysterical--and not just with laughter. Unbeknownst to me, July apparently was National Dump Your Iguana Month and peoplewere doing just that. In a very short span of time I was given 6 iguanas: all very small for their age withcalcium deficiencies, mouth rot, and respiratory infections -- and not one of them was tame, not even remotely so.

Most people spend more time (and put more money into) picking out an inanimate object with built-in obsolescence than they do when buying an animal of any sort. Animals, like much of the rest of our culture, have become disposable items, cool to have around until they get in the way, don't do anything interesting, get sick or are replaced by the latest exotic "thing" that comes along.

We are all only to happy to talk to people about how wonderful our animals are, the neat and interestingthings we see them do. It is important, however, to talk about the not-so-fun things - setting up a properenvironment and constantly monitoring it, the cleaning up, the buying and preparing of proper foods, the vet visits and how, with the many shortcuts that can be taken, there are so many things which cannot be skimped upon. It is important to be honest with our friends, acquaintances and even strangerswhen we see that, for whatever reason, they would not be able to provide what the animal requires. Some people are much too young, others are too peripatetic, students or young adults in transition who frequently move from place to place (which includes from home to school and back again). An uncomfortably large number of people get pets for the summer and dump them when it is time to leave for school or new jobs. Others get pets for the kids during the school year and dump the pet when the family leaves for summer vacation.

Still others get animals with no intention of keeping them beyond a certain point: iguanas over five feet, Burmese pythons over twelve feet, Nile monitors over five feet... And all are surprised and hurt when the zoos and wild animal parks don't want their precious pets or when people aren't clamoring to buy their animals when the time comes for them to get rid of the animals that have outgrown their cuteness.

Animals, like children, should be a lifelong commitment. Unlike children, however, animals will never become self-sufficient. You can't send them to camp, they will never go away to school, they will neverhead out on their own (unless or or someone else is careless securing their enclosure or the house), theywill never be able to take themselves to the vet or procure their own food. About the only thanks you will get is an animal who poops and sheds properly and regularly, who consumes its food with gusto, and who becomes comfortable enough with you--through hard work on your part--to not bite, scratch, thrash or try to get away every time you go to pick it up.

For a Happier Holiday...

A note to Santa's Helpers

Last updated 08/26/02

Are you a parent or doting grandparent, aunt or uncle considering giving a child that reptile she or he has been begging you for? Do you know someone considering buying a reptile for their child or niece or nephew, godchild, grandchild or cousin? Encourage them to talk to the parents first...and to encourage the parent to do some research into the suitability and care requirements before they approveof such a gift.

The holidays are a time of giving, but please, don't make a present of a living animal, especially to children. Instead, why not make a gift of a book about an animal they are interested in, the latest iguanacare video, give them a gift subscription to a herp magazine, or a gift certificate for books or equipmentand supplies?

Every year, unsuitable mammals, birds, reptiles and amphibians are given to people as gifts without those people knowing the first thing about them. These animals either die or languish in inappropriate environments for months or years before they are finally given to someone else, often someone equally unprepared to care for them properly. Worst, thousands are dumped every year on shelters, herpetological societies, and reptile rescue groups, especially green iguanas, Burmese pythons, red-tailed boas, and box and aquatic turtles.

Don't assume that the parents of a child are willing or interested in caring for any pet, let alone whatever exotic species you decide to get for your favorite niece, nephew, or son or daughter living with your ex-spouse. No matter how well you think you know the parents or the child, always ask the parents first, and give them time - and species care information to read - to carefully consider it. If they say no, please respect their wishes. It really is a matter of life or death.

Animals are not disposable playthings. They are a lifelong commitment - both the life of the owner andthe animal.

Alternatives to Live Animal Gifts

Charitable DonationsIndividuals and organizations who do animal rescue, housing and rehoming of pet animals, as well as those involved strictly with domestic wildlife rescue and rehab, are always in need of funds, equipment,and supplies. If there is an organization your giftee is particularly supportive of, or you know of one in need (and there isn't one that isn't in need!), then consider making a donation of money or goods. Most such organizations have a "wish list" of items they desperately need, with entries ranging from food fortheir patients and residents, to enclosures, heating and lighting supplies, veterinary supplies, etc. You will find many herp rescues listed in my Societies and Rescues page. To find rescues and wildlife rehabilitation centers in your area (or your giftee's area) check with the humane society or SPCA shelters in your area, or with your local reference library at the public library. While some of these organization have a separate facility and so are listed in the phone book, many are completely volunteerrun organizations. Reference librarians and the local volunteer center (check the County listings in the phone book) usually keep comprehensive lists of all nonprofit organizations in the area.

Herp BooksEvery herper has a wish-list of books. Good herp books range from the relatively inexpensive to huge, lush, coffee-table book-size encyclopedias and atlases. For those with an interest in it and lots of species and numbers to care for, reptile veterinary books are generally included on their wish list. If you aren't certain of what book(s) they want or need, you can always get and wrap up a booklist from

one of the herp booksellers, and include a note or gift certificate with it, inviting them to have at it. For prospective herpers, if you know what types of species they are considering getting but aren't familiar yourself with good books on them, check with some knowledgeable herpers to get their recommendations on titles.

If you are buying a book for a child, be sure to check with the children's librarian at the public library for reptile and amphibian-related books suitable for the child's age and development.

Herp Magazine SubscriptionOne great thing about herps is that we have only just been scratching the surface of care, natural history, breeding and more. There are still new species being discovered, eco-trips to new places, new things being discovered about the behavior and care of species we thought we knew well. Giving a herpkeeper or prospective herper a year or two subscription to a good herp magazine is literally a gift that will keep on giving. Not only will they find the current issues interesting, and helpful in the keeping of their herps or aid in the proper selection of future ones, but the issues will be saves and referred to over the years.

Herp Society MembershipMany herpers feel isolated, not realizing that they are part of a larger community of fellow herpers. Here is a way to help them get connected with local folks and resources. For prospective herpers, belonging to a herp society is a way of not only getting connected but of meeting other herpers who keep the species they are interested in, which ultimately may help them make the best decision as to which one is best for them. Societies also provide a way in which people who are interested in doing socan get involved in educating the community at large about herps. While society memberships are not very expensive, for students and others on a limited budget, a gift membership is a gift that will bring interest, challenge and enjoyment for at least a year.

Pet Sitting and Go-feringSometimes our hearts exceed the depth of our bank accounts and so we must be more creative in our gifting. Consider giving a card entitling the bearer to a weekend, or even a week, of quality pet sitting (by you!) while they go on a much-needed vacation or business trip. Or, volunteer to make pet store runs for food and supplies, or to chauffeur herpers who do not have ready access to a car and who may have a problem lugging a sack full of rats or crickets on the bus or subway, especially during the icy, snowy winter months. Equally needful are rides to the vets for sick animals when the keeper doesn't have a car or can't take their 10 ft python or 4 ft iguana on the bus and taxis, for some reason, never seem to find their address on time...

There are many things herpers and prospective herpers will welcome. Just use your imagination - and common sense - and the holidays should prove to be happy and healthy for both the herper and their herps.

Pet Store Gift CertificateIf the store your gift recipient regularly goes to does not have gift certificates, you can easily create your own, by hand or on the computer. Tuck it into a holiday card, decorate the envelope, and voila! a safe and sane gift! The nice thing is that pet owners can use the certificate to buy something their pets need, or special treats for them they wouldn't otherwise buy, or they can apply it towards the purchase of a future pet or pet supply purchase.