CHICKPEA MAGAZINE fall 2014 1

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I’ve recently devel-oped a slight fas-

cination with the magic of mushrooms. No, I’m not referring to those magic mushrooms, I’m talking about enokitake and hen-of-the-woods and oyster—the kind of mushrooms that offer the body a major nutritional boost while tasting pretty dang good in the process.

It all started back in April when I first embarked on a four month backpacking stint throughout Asia. Be-fore I even booked my flight from New York to Tokyo or purchased my backpack, I remember researching all of my anticipated travel destinations and being over-joyed by the abundance of new foods that each coun-try had to offer. Exotic fruits, spicy sambals, healing teas—Asia seemed like a utopia of vegan goodness. I was already envisioning the moment I would experi-ence the notorious natto in a Japanese sushi restaurant and sink my teeth into a juicy Thai mango and sip a fresh coconut on the beaches of Bali. What I was not expecting was to discover a completely uncharted zone of mushrooms.

Like many plant-based eaters, I’ve grown pretty famil-iar with mushrooms: portobellos on the grill during summer BBQs, raw white button mushrooms in gar-den salads, porcinis and cherry tomatoes over zucchini

pasta. Although I could appreciate their nutritional contribution to a dish, mushrooms always just seemed somewhat tired and uninspired to me. Boy, did that change.

Four months and five countries later, I’ve grown to see mushrooms in a whole new light. Regarded as a symbol of longevity in much of Asia, mushrooms are respected for their health and wellness properties, as well as their versatility in the kitchen. Although com-monly referred to as a vegetable, mushrooms are ac-tually a unique type of fungi. They are chock-full of antioxidants, which help to ward off serious illnesses such as heart disease and cancer, high in potassium, which lowers blood pressure and metabolizes carbohy-drates, and regarded as one of the leading plant-based sources of calcium. Need more? Mushrooms are full of B vitamins, which assist the nervous system. They are basically the perfect supplement to a plant-based diet.

From Japan to Thailand to Malaysia, Asian chefs have honed their skills for centuries to create nutritious and delicious dishes from various species of local fungi. Whether they are highlighted as a side dish or com-bined with soy in vegan meats, mushrooms complete almost every vegan meal.

I’m no stranger to shiitake mushrooms, but I’ve never expe-rienced them as I did in Japan. There I was taught by a friend to use these immune-boosters to create shiitake dashi stock, a vegetarian alternative to miso soup and noodle broth, both which are often made with fish products. In order to create this warm and comforting broth, soak the mushrooms in water for several hours and then strain the liquid. High in selenium, which allows your muscles, nerves, and blood ves-sels to function properly, shiitake are said to be the perfect solution to both preventing and curing colds.

Malaysian cuisine also offers a wide variety of vegetarian dishes which feature shiitakes, particularly foods known as mock meat. During a visit to Tioman Island in Malaysia, I discovered a recipe that changed my view on mock meat forever. A local chef roasted shiitakes with tofu and herbs to create a hearty Chinese-inspired side that when paired with broccoli and a generous sprinkling of black pepper kept my belly nourished and my immune system strong.

Similar to shiitake, enokitake mushrooms are often used in many Asian soups and stews. However, they are particularly common in phở, a Vietnamese noodle soup consisting of savory broth, rice noodles, herbs, and meat. Luckily for those who practice a vegan lifestyle, many restaurants and street food carts are able to substitute in soy and extra vegetables.

While waiting for a vegan phở on the streets of Ho Chi Minh City, I watched a tal-ented chef chop an inch off of the end of the mushroom bundle, separate the bunch into individual strands, and add the mushrooms to the broth for just a minute or two until tender. Just like that, a nutritious dish was prepared for the equivalent of $2 USD.

Enokitakes’ mild taste and minimal required preparation also make these slender white mushrooms a leading choice for stir fries and salads. They are often found stir fried with bitter gourd, a common vegetable in Asian countries that is rich in vitamins A, C, iron, and B vitamins.

Due to their relatively short shelf life, when purchasing fresh it is important to select enokitake mushrooms that have a smooth texture and firm cap.

words by Alex Bachertillustrations by Sarah Ferone photos by Alicja Rokicka

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Also known as “hen-of-the-woods” or “dancing mush-room”, maitake are said to resemble a small cluster of but-terflies. In order to maintain their signature feathered look when preparing maitakes, it is best to use your hands to start with the stem and tear the mushrooms into clusters until the desired size is achieved.

Maitake have a strong, smoky flavor that make them a pop-ular choice for many dishes, sauces, and soups. Through-out much of Asia, they are often grilled or sautéed and

served as a main dish. One entrée that I particularly enjoyed was in Kyoto, Japan. My friend and I managed to score a seat in a small restaurant just before it closed and we invited the waiter to order us a vegan dish of his choice. What he brought out was a beautiful (and delicious) spread of maitake mushrooms sautéed with ginger, soy sauce, sesame seeds, and umami seasoning.

In addition to being versatile in the kitchen, maitake also offer various health benefits. They are renowned in Japan for their ability to boost the immune system.

First, allow me to clarify that oyster mushrooms do not come from oysters. Although oysters may have nothing to do with the popular sauce that coats many of the country’s dishes, they are still very much present in the cuisine.

Mild in flavor and firm in texture, oyster mushrooms are the star of tom yum soup, a hot and sour broth which boasts strong lemongrass and kaffir leaf flavors. Thai cuisine also highlights oyster mushrooms in veg-gie stir fries with tons of roasted garlic, as well as tossed with coconut milk rice and diced pumpkin, or com-bined with bok choy and tofu in a curry.

Aside from enhancing the taste and texture of Thai cuisine, oyster mushrooms offer the body antioxidants and antibacterial benefits.

One glance at wood ear mushrooms and you’ll know why they received their name. Medium in size and black-brown in color, these translucent clumps of tis-sue look remarkably similar to a human ear.

Known for their rubbery texture, which turns crisp and crunchy when cooked, wood ears are used as a protein in much of Malaysian vegetarian food. They are commonly stir-fried, braised, or added to

soup. In these cases, they are usually incorporated into the dish right before serving in order to help retain the elastic texture, as well the plethora of nutrients.

During a stay in a kampun, or village, in northern Malaysia, my host family served a Malay-sian Chinese dish with wood ears in a brown garlic sauce. Wood ear are also quite popular in Japanese cuisine, especially when combined with other mushrooms and tofu. One dish that was served in several vegan-friendly restaurants was tofu and vegetables with braised wood ears and shiitakes.

As is often the case when traveling and stepping out of one’s comfort zone, I discovered a great deal about a topic I thought I was well versed on. Thanks to their plethora of culinary uses and health properties, mushrooms are ubiquitous in much of vegan cuisine in Asia. Although many of these varieties are native to the region, they can be found both fresh and dried in local Asian markets and health food stores, making it easy to experience the magic wherever you call home.