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Transcript of Across the Antarctic Circle - auroraexpeditions.com.au
Across the Antarctic Circle10 - 19 February 2014 | Polar Pioneer
ABOUT USOur small group voyages carry a maximum of 54 passengers,
allowing you to have a truly intimate experience with nature.
Proudly Australian owned with over 20 years’ experience, our
voyages embody the spirit of adventure, travelling to some
of the most wild and remote areas in the world.
Our highly experienced expedition staff are passionate and
knowledgeable – they are the secret to our success.
We are deeply committed to education and preservation of
the environment and our aim is to travel respectfully, creating
lifelong ambassadors for the protection of our destinations.
We push the boundaries with flexible and innovative itineraries,
numerous daily Zodiac landings, a 24 hour open bridge policy
and fascinating lectures. You’ll share your adventure with like
minded souls in a relaxed, casual atmosphere while making
the most of every opportunity for adventure and discovery.
We are dedicated to providing a ‘trip of a lifetime’ whilst
ensuring the safety and well-being of our passengers, crew
and expedition staff.
Most importantly . . . we love what we do!
3
Position: 19:30 hours
Latitude: 54° 53’ S
Speed: 11.8 knots
Longitude: 67° 52’ W
Course: 96°
Wind Speed: 6 knots
Wind Direction: S
Barometer: 994.6 hPa rising
Air Temp: 11°C
Sea Temp: 8°C
After months of preparing for this trip, then long-haul flights from
all quadrants of the world, we arrived at the southerly outpost of
Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, for the launch of our Antarctic adventure.
We boarded Polar Pioneer on a sunny Ushuaia afternoon, just as
our fresh provisions were being heaved aboard by a chain gang of
staff and crew. Together we total 52 passengers—an international
gathering from Australia, Austria, UK, USA, Germany, Switzerland,
Sweden and New Zealand, along with 12 Aurora and Waterproof
Expeditions’ staff and 23 Russian crew.
Once we were all onboard we made our way to the bar for a
briefing where Expedition Leader Howard spoke about plans
for our voyage and introduced us to the expedition team. Our
mandatory safety briefing followed. The sound of seven-short-
one-long from the ship’s horn was our signal to don bulky orange
lifejackets and gather at the muster station on Deck 4 behind the
bar, to sample the ambience of a Polar Class life vessel. Even without
a full complement of Russian crew, the seating arrangements in the
lifeboats proved cosy.
With a brilliant blue sky patterned with a few streaks of clouds,
the outside decks were the spots to enjoy our departure as we
slipped our moorings and eased away from the wharf. Ushuaia
soon diminished as we nosed eastward along the glorious Beagle
Channel. We passed rolling green banks forested with Antarctic
beech, while Chilean skuas, king cormorants, kelp gulls and South
American terns were in view from the ship.
Then it was inside for a quick pre-dinner drink in Anna’s bar, before
locating the dining rooms to enjoy the first of Chefs Gray and Tim’s
delicious dinners.
In soft evening light we passed Puerto Williams, Ushuaia’s rival for
el fin del mundo, the end of the world, located 50 kilometres east
along the Beagle Channel on the southern Chilean bank.
DAY 1 | Monday 10 February 2014
USHUAIA, BEAGLE CHANNEL
5
A healthy complement of adventurers showed their faces at our
first breakfast, despite the Drake having thrown a few of its lumps
and bumps at us overnight. Numbers decreased throughout
breakfast, and unfortunately by mid-morning the companionways
were becoming more like the deserted streets in an old Hollywood
Western - one could almost see the tumbleweed being blown
along. And so our brave syringe-clad hero, Doctor Jamin, galloped
in on his trusty horse, Phenergen-onimo, to rescue those of us
suffering from the evil mal de mer.
The “Great Gumboot Giveaway” proved a popular affair with happy
customers climbing up from the lecture room shod in black, green
or blue rubber boots. It has been reported however that a few
customers were disappointed at Peter’s inability to provide them
with boots to match the colours of their jackets. Alas! It seems the
couture of Antarctica shall suffer greatly (although we are sure that
the penguins will not mind).
Our planned briefings were postponed for the day, with numbers of
upright passengers too low. And so it was “Naturalist Michael” who
took the earlier-than-planned slot to teach us all about seabirds.
Some of us even managed to spend significant portions of our
day on the bridge and keep an eye out for these feathered friends.
And certainly there was the delight of at least a dozen wandering
albatrosses, as well as black-browed, Royal and grey-headed
albatrosses for those up on the bridge early in the morning.
By lunch, it seems some of us had managed to get up and about.
And so discussions turned to coping mechanisms on a rolling ship:
1) Although the dramatically changing angle of the curtains
above your bunk may be fascinating, fight the urge to focus on
them for any length of time if you are feeling at all queasy;
2) Should your body continue to slide up, then down your bunk
ad infinitum, consider sewing yourself a pair of “elephant skin”
or Velcro pyjamas (with matching sheets);
3) Embrace the Polar Pioneer Waltz–often spied at the junctions
of companionways and stairways. Always wait for the ship to
roll one way before attempting to move in the same direction.
A few short side steps may assist in avoiding collision with
fellow passengers.
After an afternoon of napping, the seas calmed down enough for
us to enjoy Captain’s Welcome Drinks in the bar. Anna plied us with
her sangria, and our Chefs delighted our taste buds with canapés.
Howard introduced us to our lovely Captain Yury Gorodnik, and we
were able to toast him, his officers and crew. NA ZDAROVYA!
The evening carried on with a return to our full complement at
dinner, and in full voice to sing Kate a “Happy Birthday”. The cake
was shared around, and happily consumed by those of us with the
‘intel’ that it was indeed a cake of rich chocolate brownie. Delicious!
Late in the evening, we crossed the Antarctic Convergence, or Polar
Front–the natural boundary between the relatively warm sub-
Antarctic surface water and the cold Antarctic surface water–you
may have noticed a respective drop in temperature. This area is
one of great biological significance. It is nutrient-rich and influences
the distribution of plankton, fish, and birds. It also marked the
beginning of our journey into Antarctic waters.
DAY 2 | Tuesday 11 February 2014
DRAKE PASSAGE
Position: 21:10 hours
Latitude: 58° 24’ S
Speed: 11 knots
Longitude: 63° 27’ W
Course: 155°
Wind Speed: calm
Wind Direction: N/A
Barometer: 993.3 hPa steady
Air Temp: 3.5°C
Sea Temp: 5°C
7
Position: 23:00 hours
Latitude: 62° 23’ S
Speed: 7.6 knots
Longitude: 59° 44’ W
Course: 99°
Wind Speed: 6 knots
Wind Direction: SSW
Barometer: 1006.6 hPa rising
Air Temp: 0°C
Sea Temp: 0°C
The fair sailing continued through the night and into the morning.
The dulcet tones of Howard awoke us gently in the morning to
announce the presence of fin whales to starboard.
After breakfast we assembled in the lecture and dining rooms
for important environmental and safety briefings from Michael,
Howard and Liz, ably assisted by Bob.
As the day progressed the wildlife sightings gathered momentum.
Fin whales were particularly numerous, with 20 or more animals
sighted. A number of sea birds, were sighted, including cape petrels,
wandering albatross, and black-browed petrels. We interrupted
the snoozing of an Antarctic fur seal, causing some alarm from
those observing from the bridge!
Shortly after a delicious pasta and salad lunch there was an exciting
announcement from the bridge-first iceberg sighted!
Then it was time for some vacuuming! Everyone gathered to
ensure that all of our gear was spick and span in keeping with
bio-security requirements. Never mind that one of us accidentally
vacuumed a USB stick (not mentioning any names)….
As the afternoon progressed the weather continued to improve
and first land since our departure was sighted –the South Shetland
Islands (and what a magnificent sight)! Snow capped peaks, volcanic
formations and low cloud combined to make a memorable sight.
Following the announcement that an evening landing was
imminent, excitement was heightened amongst all on-board the
Polar Pioneer.
When the ship finally anchored in the presence of whales and
penguins, we piled into Zodiacs and headed to Barrientos Island.
The conditions were fantastic, calm, sunny and relatively warm,
and we got good glimpses of the gentoo and chinstrap penguin
colonies as we motored past.
Once upon the island, the kayakers braved the elements and took
to the seas, whilst the rest of us climbed the ridge to enjoy the
views and the rising (almost) full moon above us. Thousands of
penguins greeted us, and we were graced with not one but three
species of seal on the beach: Weddell, Antarctic fur, and Southern
elephant seals.
What a great first encounter! I think it is safe to say that no one on
board will forget their first Antarctic landing.
DAY 3 | Wednesday 12 February 2014
DRAKE PASSAGE, BARRIENTOS ISLAND
9
It was a cool, crisp air that greeted us in the morning, and a thick
blanket of grey cloud lay low over our heads. The towering ice
cliffs of Trinity Island provided a spectacular backdrop to Mikkelsen
Harbour, and dwarfed our tiny island destination of D’Hainaut. By
0800, the stern was buzzing with activity. Groups of dark, rubber-
clad divers mingled with ease among the candy coloured kayakers
(does anyone else think of “The Wiggles”?).
On the water, close-up views of the cracked and almost-toppling
icy towers delighted, as did the Antarctic terns that hovered above
our heads. Two leopard seals popped their heads above the water
to investigate those in Liz’s Zodiac, but quickly slipped back under
again. Kelp gulls called their familiar calls as we neared their rocky
nests where large brown fluffy chicks looked on. The kayakers were
accompanied by porpoising gentoo penguins as they first floated,
then paddled across the harbour.
The snorkellers had a successful morning, with delighted faces later
providing a summary of their discoveries. Big fish chasing little fish,
and giant limpets starred in an underwater miniature world. The
limpets were also reported to be a star in the diver’s “check-out”
dive.
Back on land, D’Hainaut island proved to be full of surprises for those
less fond of dry suits and numb cheeks. The skeletal remains of a
large whaler’s boat lay stranded on the cobbled beach, surrounded
by piles of whale bones and moulting gentoo penguins. At least
four Weddell seals lay snoozing in the snow displaying their mottled
and spotted grey bellies, and the long whiskers that graced their
content-looking faces. A few fur seals joined them, although they
were more inclined to treat us to some feisty barks before settling
down again for a nap. Naturalist Michael was gracious enough
to show us the way not to go back to the landing site, when he
plunged thigh deep through some ice and into a (reportedly) very,
very cold pond.
A feast was provided at lunchtime–warming soup, fresh bread,
chicken and salad were all consumed with gusto. And so with
bodies warmed and bellies filled, many of us then moved on to a
quick siesta.
By the time we had reached Hydrurga Rocks–our “Plan A” for
the afternoon, the northerly wind was blowing hard through a
thick fog. Horizontal snow completed the picture for a summer’s
afternoon in Antarctica! And so Expedition Leader Howard made
the call to continue south with “Plans B and C” in mind…
The fog and wind lifted throughout the afternoon, and so we
arrived in Wilhemina Bay in time to view massive glaciers, snow-
dusted mountains and several humpback whales. Mothers and
calves thrilled us with flipper slapping and fluke displays as they fed
on swarms of krill below the surface. Beautifully sculpted icebergs
completed the scene. The snow-covered bow and outer decks
were packed with cameras, binoculars and excited adventurers
until the light started to fade and dinner was called.
DAY 4 | Thursday 13 February 2014
MIKKELSEN HARBOUR; WILHEMINA BAY
Position: 21:30 hours
Latitude: 64° 34’S
Speed: 9.6 knots
Longitude: 62° 16’W
Course: 328°
Wind Speed: 10 knots
Wind Direction: SE
Barometer: 999.9.6 hPa fallng
Air Temp: 2°C
Sea Temp: 0°C
11
DAY 5 | Friday 14 February 2014
PETERMANN ISLAND; ARGENTINE ISLANDS (VERNADSKY)
Position: 21:26 hours
Latitude: 65° 32’S
Speed: 9.2 knots
Longitude: 64° 39’W
Course: 213°
Wind Speed: calm
Wind Direction: N/A
Barometer: 986.9.6 hPa rising
Air Temp: 1°C
Sea Temp: 0°C
Waking to see the beauty of the Lemaire Channel outside one’s
porthole makes one wonder whether they have really woken at all,
and whether they are in fact floating in snowy dream. The morning
fog lifted like a stage curtain to reveal a narrow channel lined with
towering peaks standing like a snow-clad guard of honour.
It was an unforgettable morning, with views of soaring summits,
gigantic glaciers and ice floes inhabited by crabeater seals enjoyed
by all. If there was ever a picturesque spot on the Antarctic
Peninsula, this was it!
Shortly after breakfast, our Zodiacs “zoomed” and kayaks glided to
Petermann Island. While the divers enjoyed close encounters with
leopard seals, the kayakers cruised the coastline. Meanwhile the
landlubbers strolled amongst gentoo and Adélie colonies, and
admired historic sites. Some of us even enjoyed sliding down a
steep icy slope on our bums!
A quick stop for tasty pizzas was had, and the high octane action
continued with an afternoon anchorage in the Argentine Islands
amidst some light snow.
We boarded Zodiacs, or in some cases kayaks, and headed over
to the Ukrainian Research Station Vernadsky. We were taken on
an informative tour of facilities and given the opportunity to try
some home-distilled vodka. Originally the British “Faraday” station,
Vernadsky station was sold to the Ukrainians in 1996 for one pound
sterling. It is the oldest operational station in the Antarctic Peninsula
region, with continuous meteorological records, which have been
collected since 1947 until now.
Afterwards, the divers and snorkellers enjoyed the conditions at
the north channel of Winter Island. Colourful sponges, starfish,
and other interesting invertebrates were some of the benthic
inhabitants.
The kayakers headed out to check out some of the more interesting
‘bergs’, even spotting a mermaid amongst them! They were also
witness to a curious fur seal, and a cheeky crabeater seal that
wouldn’t allow his compadré to come up onto his ice floe!
Meanwhile, those who stayed ashore explored Wordie Hut, an
historic British hut previously known as “Base F”. Two handy “people”
(Michael and Liesel) working for the United Kingdom Antarctic
Heritage Trust (UKAHT) were to be found there, undertaking some
repair and restoration work on the hut.
In dimming evening light, some enjoyed a final iceberg cruise
around the islands before we all returned to our cosy ship. It was
not long before Anna’s convivial bar was pumping, with many a
passenger reflecting on what may have been our best day yet!
A perfect day was completed with a perfect sunset over the
Grandidier Channel.
13
Position: 21:45 hours
Latitude: 66° 31’S
Speed: 7.2 knots
Longitude: 67° 04’W
Course: 45°
Wind Speed: 32 knots
Wind Direction: NE
Barometer: 977.3 hPa falling
Air Temp: 0°C
Sea Temp: 0°C
Mother Nature hurled her force at us today in the form of strong
winds and horizontal snow and sleet. The early morning visit to the
Fish Islands was postponed before most of us had even gotten out
of bed.
Never one to be easily defeated, Expedition Leader Howard later
threw his ‘gauntlet’ down and challenged Mother Nature. And
so, in brave expeditionary style 34 hardy souls ventured out for a
Zodiac cruise in the blustery weather. Ice needles pierced exposed
skin, and extremities chilled quickly. It seems however, that there is
a “fine line between pleasure and pain”, and this group saw naught
but the thrill and adventure in their morning excursion.
The Minnows, a group of small islands within the Fish Island
archipelago proved to be a sanctuary for groups of Adélie penguin
chicks, who huddled together in crèches. Almost fledged, these
chicks will soon be trying out their swimming and fishing ability as
they graduate to become the true seabirds they are.
Ice floes amongst the islands proved popular spots for both
expeditioners and crabeater seals alike. It was difficult to tell who
was looking at who, but it is certain that this close encounter with
these krill-loving marine mammals was a highlight of the day. So
too, the flocks of pure white snow petrels–described as the “fairies
of the south”-that flitted among the bergs and rocks.
Shortly before lunch, Naturalist Michael regaled us with the life
stories of elephant seals (affectionately known as “blubber slugs”),
crabeater, fur and leopard seals, as well as mind-boggling facts
about the larger mammals in these parts–the whales. Whoever
knew that a male Southern Right whale’s nether regions could
weight up to 500 kilograms!
After lunch, we all gathered on the bow to mark our crossing of the
Antarctic Circle at 66°33’S. Rugged up and huddled together like
penguins against the biting wind (and rolling ship), we celebrated
our crossing with champagne and merriment. Howard read
Captain’s Cook Oath, and Liz ceremoniously marked our foreheads
with the official Antarctic Circle stamp (aka the plug from her sink).
By the time we had reached our most southerly position for this
expedition, Mother Nature had turned up the wind dial even more,
and we were being belted with gusts up to 40 knots. A landing at
Detaille Island appeared unlikely, so we admired the island, it’s hut,
and surrounding bergs from the safety of the ship.
Our pre-dinner entertainment featured Howard, who described his
exciting involvement in the making of the film, “Happy Feet”. As
timely post-dinner entertainment, we danced and sang with the
very same Mumbles, Gloria, Lovelace and their Adélie amigos.
Outside, and as the sky darkened, Mother Nature continued
to prove her strength, and we all headed to bed with not only
increased respect for her, but hopes that she might show us some
grace on the ‘morrow.
DAY 6 | Saturday 15 February 2014
FISH ISLANDS; ANTARCTIC CIRCLE; DETAILLE ISLAND
15
Position: 20:55 hours
Latitude: 65° 04’S
Speed: at anchor
Longitude: 64° 02’W
Course: at anchor
Wind Speed: 6 knots
Wind Direction: SE
Barometer: 986.6 hPa steady
Air Temp: 4°C
Sea Temp: 0°C
After a welcome sleep in, a relaxed breakfast beckoned. By 1000
however, the leisurely pace of the morning had been replaced by
a frenzy of activity.
The kayakers got ready to roll (literally), the divers donned their dry
suits, and the rest began the lengthy process of adding layer upon
layer. Finally we were all out on the water and enjoying a morning
excursion to the Yalour Islands. The islands were named after an
Argentine officer of the ship Uruguay which rescued a party from
the Swedish Antarctic Expedition in November 1903.
Wind and rain didn’t deter our intrepid adventurers, and rather
added to the moody mystique of the islands. Whilst visitors on
land roamed the extensive ice cap, enjoying the antics of the
Adélie penguins and Antarctic terns, the divers were enjoying the
underwater scenery including fish, limpets and isopods.
The kayakers meanwhile were enjoying the somewhat challenging
conditions, deftly dodging icebergs and rocks through narrow
passes. Even a leopard seal popped up to witness the slick skills of
the kayak team! Fantastic!
A quick stop to re-fuel with a delicious seafood lunch and off we
were again to the most favoured playground of Pléneau Island.
Divers, snorkellers kayakers and Zodiac cruisers alike enjoyed the
calm conditions and memorable sights around Pléneau. Without
a doubt, the amazing iceberg formations were the star attractions.
Several sightings of crabeater seals, gentoo penguins fishing the
frigid waters, and a monumental calving of a giant iceberg added
to the afternoon’s delights.
Even after all of that activity, the day’s fun was far from over! The
call for ‘Polar Plungers’ was put out by Liz, and what a fantastic
response we had! A total of 22 guests braved the cold–equating
to almost half of you and perhaps the highest number of guest
yet- Bravo! Hardy plungers were greeted with warm towels, a shot
of vodka, and sent to the sauna to recuperate!
Once everyone had warmed up the good times continued out
on the bow. Our esteemed Chefs Gray and Tim had prepared
a fantastic BBQ spread of seal, penguin, and other fine Antarctic
game meats, accompanied by a delicious Glühwein prepared by
the effervescent Anna.
To honour their efforts, we all put on some silly hats and made
merry in the drizzle. Eventually though the rain forced us into the
bar, where we enjoyed an ice cream cone and perhaps another
drink or two, happily recounting the events of the day.
DAY 7 | Sunday 16 February 2014
YALOUR ISLANDS; PLéNEAU ISLAND
17
Position: 22:58 hours
Latitude: 64° 28’S
Speed: 10.3 knots
Longitude: 62° 14’W
Course: 48°
Wind Speed: 14 knots
Wind Direction: ENE
Barometer: 993.3 hPa steady
Air Temp: 2°C
Sea Temp: 0°C
We woke to another of Howard’s enigmatic announcements over
the PA system… “Good morn..(crackle crackle). (Crackle crackle)
landing at (crackle) o’clock. (Crackle) sure to look out (crackle) the
(crackle) on the (crackle) side of the ship”. And, we woke to another
day of indescribable experiences in Antarctica.
The bright colours of the Union Jack beckoned us across the grey
waters of Port Lockroy to Goudier Island, and the home of the old
British “Base A” or Bransfield House. The base was built in 1944
during ‘Operation Tabarin’, a World War II expedition (named after
a Parisian nightclub) of which the purpose was to monitor potential
enemy activities on the Peninsula. The base is now a museum
run by the non-profit United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust
(UKAHT). Fat and fluffy gentoo penguin chicks greeted us with
nonchalance, as they huddled in crèche groups of various sizes.
A hungry skua paced along the outer edges of these potential-
penguin-prey-packs.
Inside Bransfield House, the museum shop and post office appeared
more like a Boxing Day sale with hoodies, badges, postcards, toy
penguins and books disappearing with lightening speed off the
shelves. The lounge accommodated those determined to send a
post card home to family and friends (and often, to themselves),
although cries of frustration were heard more than once as
addresses and postcodes were forgotten.
Elsewhere in the museum we were treated to a true 1950s time
capsule. We imagined what life might have been like living in such
a remote place, with hard scientific work to complete and still
hard work to do in the kitchen (especially given the limited and
somewhat uninspiring ingredients with which to concoct a meal).
Seal brain omelette, anyone?
Superlatives leapt from our mouths throughout our afternoon at
Paradise Harbour. On arriving at the Argentinean base, Almirante
Brown, a thick blanket of snow fell from the sky like someone had
split open a giant feather duvet above our heads. Once emptied,
it stopped as quickly as it had begun, and the magic was revealed.
From the wide span of rocky, snow-dusted mountains and blue-
white glaciers surrounding the bay, to the leopard and crabeater
seal-inhabited ice floes, we were gobsmacked. From the burning
muscles and panting lungs as we climbed the peak above Brown
Station, to the squeals of delight as we bum-slid down again, we
rejoiced. From the icy cracking and crashing of the glacier fronts,
to the deafening sounds of silence as we sat still with our sleeping
Zodiac engines, we were awakened. Minke whales tantalised us
with fleeting views of their dorsal fins, while cormorants performed
“fly-overs” in formations of military precision.
DAY 8 | Monday 17 February 2014
PORT LOCKROY; PARADISE HARBOUR
19
Having sailed back to the South Shetland Islands, our morning
was spent inside a flooded (and active) volcanic caldera known as
Deception Island.
As Captain Yury and crew skilfully navigated through the narrow
passage known as Neptune’s Bellows, views of craggy cliffs, dark
ravines and multi-hued mountains were had.
After anchoring in Whalers Bay, we were soon (now expertly)
loading into the Zodiacs for a short shuttle to the steaming beach.
The “land lovers” took in the remarkable history, interesting geology
and moody atmosphere. Whilst the whale bones and buildings
are mostly relics of the Norwegian whaling operations in the early
1900’s, the site was also used by the British as a research station-
until volcanic eruptions in reasonably close succession forced its
closure.
Meanwhile, the divers and snorkellers entered the waters of the
protected eastern corner of the bay below Cathedral Crags. A
plethora of colourful benthic life was to be seen, including giant
sea spiders and anemones. A more disquieting sight was the
multitude of whale skeletons on the sea floor - reminders of an era
where these mighty mammals were hunted en masse for their oil
and economic value.
Our final landing was at Hannah Point, on Livingstone Island. This
landing would have impressed any budding “Doctor Doolittle”,
with various feathered and furry beasts seemingly piled upon one
another on the craggy cliffs.
Our final landing in Antarctica also prompted some reflection
on our voyage as a whole. We have all managed to create some
wonderful memories and make new friends. This was particularly
evident during our final evening in our “floating home away from
home”, as we gathered in the bar for ‘Captain’s Farewell Drinks’.
After a grand finalé dinner (complete with fancy, white table
cloths), the festivities continued in the bar. We chatted, laughed,
reminisced, and danced into the wee hours of the morning.
And so with our bags (reluctantly) packed, the Aurora staff and Polar
Pioneer crew wished us all a very safe onward journey. Perhaps we
will all meet again somewhere cold, sometime soon…
DAY 9 | Tuesday 18 February 2014
WHALER’S BAY (DECEPTION ISLAND); HANNAH POINT
Position: 22:58 hours
Latitude: 64° 28’S
Speed: 10.3 knots
Longitude: 62° 14’W
Course: 48°
Wind Speed: 14 knots
Wind Direction: ENE
Barometer: 993.3 hPa steady
Air Temp: 2°C
Sea Temp: 0°C
21
“Antarctica left a restless longing in my heart beckoning towards
an incomprehensible perfection forever beyond the reach of
mortal man. Its overwhelming beauty touches one so deeply that
it is like a wound.”
—Edwin Mickleburgh, Beyond the Frozen Sea
Position: 07:00 hours
Latitude: 62° 12’S
Speed: at anchor
Longitude: 58° 57’W
Course: at anchor
Wind Speed: 8 knots
Wind Direction: E
Barometer: 993.3 hPa steady
Air Temp: 4°C
Sea Temp: 0°C
DAY 10 | Tuesday 19 February 2014
FREI STATION, KING GEORGE ISLAND
Elephant Is Clarence Is
Gibbs Is
King George Is
Nelson Is
Greenwich Is
Livingston Is
Snow Is
D’Urville Is Joinville Is
Dundee Is
Seymore Is
Snowhill Is
Low Is
Deception Is
Trinity Is
Brabant Is
Anvers Is
James Ross Is
60ºW
55ºW
62ºS
64ºS
60ºW
1. Ushuaia 2. Aitcho Islands (Barrientos Is.) 3. Mikkelsen Harbour 4. Wilhemina Harbour 5. Lemaire Channel 6. Petermann Island 7. Vernadsky Station (Argentine Is.) 8. Fish Islands (ice floe) 9. Antarctic Circle 10. Detaille Island (no landing) 11. Yalour Islands 12. Pléneau Island (Plunge; BBQ) 13. Port Lockroy (Goudier Is.) 14. Paradise Harbour/Brown Station 15. Whaler’s Bay (Deception Is.) 16. Hannah Point 17. King George Island
to Cape Horn & Ushuaia
4
6
To Fish Islands (8), Antarctic Circle (9) & Detaille Island (10)
1
2
5
7
Robert Is
Across the Circle 10 - 19 February 2014
Total Distance Travelled: 1452.3 nm
Most Southerly Point: 66°52’ S’ 66°48’ W
3
15
11
12
13
14
17
16
23
DIVING AND SNORKELLING LOG BY STeve BoYD
DIVE MASTER: MARTIN MCGRATH
DIVE ASSISTANT: STEVE BOYD
DIVERS:
Thomas Bucher Michelle Buttfield
Tor Carlson Ross Coleman
Sheldon Coxon John Kelley
Darren Kirkbride Jeffrey Leach
Richard Murray Matti Ovaska
Michelle Smith Bernard Staehli
Leanne Van der Mewe
SNORKELLING GUIDE: PETER SZYSZKA
SNORKELLERS:
Paula Benz Rebekah Benz
Dale Byrne Marian Carroll
Peter Coxon Tracy Price
Ian Belcher Alex Newcombe
Kate Newcombe
DAY 1: DEPARTED USHUAIA AT 6PM.
DAY 2: DRAKE PASSAGE.
DAY 3: DRAKE PASSAGE & LATE ARRIVAL AT BARRIENTOS ISLAND.
DAY 4: MIKKELSEN HARBOUR
AM: Mikkelsen Harbour. Rocky inlet on southern side of Trinity Island.
Check-out dive for divers and snorkellers at D’Hainaut Island at Mikkelsen
Harbour. A beautiful dive site surrounded by towering ice cliffs. The dive
was a shallow dive and all divers completed their dives after overcoming
the shock of the very cold water. Several of the diver’s regulators also free
flowed.
PM: Afternoon heavy snow and fog unable to do second dive/snorkel at
Hydrurga Rocks so travelled to Wilhemina Bay. Conditions improved and
fantastic two hours cruising in bay, many massive glaciers, icebergs and
whales. Fantastic sunset. A great end to the day.
DAY 5: PETERMANN ISLAND; VERNADSKY STATION
AM: Fantastic sunrise again. Early morning cruise through Lemaire Channel
in great weather. Then travelled to Petermann Island where divers dived
near an iceberg with three leopard seals nearby. Snorkellers were some
distance away in a bay with Peter. Divers commented on the colorful
sponges and kelp they saw.
PM: Vernadsky Station. Four divers and two snorkellers entered water in
the north channel off Winter Island which is one of the Argentine Islands.
Divers reported a nice dive with big, colourful sponges. Then visit to
Vernadsky station and Wordie House, a historic British hut. After returning
to the ship we continued our journey south and experienced an amazing
amount of small icebergs. Around 01:30 the ship was forced to stop due to
‘fast ice’, and remain at this location until sunrise.
DAY 6: FISH ISLANDS; DETAILLE ISLAND
AM: The plan was an early start, 04:30 to dive/snorkel at the Fish Islands,
but due to the earlier ice conditions the ship was delayed. We eventually
reached the Fish Islands where we had hoped to dive/snorkel, but strong
winds and blizzards forced a change of plans, resulting in a Zodiac cruise
around the islands in blizzard conditions.
PM: The ship then continued, crossing the Antarctic Circle around 15:00
hours. We then continued to the most southerly landing, Detaille Island.
However due to 40-knot gusts, blizzards and a falling barometer, the
landing was again aborted. The ship then headed north to the Yalour
Islands.
DAY 7: YALOUR ISLANDS; PLéNEAU ISLAND
AM: The morning dive was at Yalour Islands where conditions were
challenging due to the choppy water. The divers saw fish, limpets and
isopods. Later that morning the ship then headed up the Penola Strait to
Pléneau Island and its nearby iceberg graveyard. After cruising through
the icebergs and seeing many seals on bergs, a dive site with two close
icebergs was chosen. All of the divers stated that the diving was tricky due
to the very strong current which also resulted in some of the divers being
forced to end their dive early. The divers observed the unique structure of
the icebergs below water. The divers also enjoyed snorkeling in the blue
water beside one of the icebergs.
DAY 8: PORT LOCKROY, GOUDIER ISLAND; SHAG WALL, PARADISE
HARBOUR
AM: Overnight the ship travelled to Port Lockroy where seven divers dived
along the side of Goudier Island. Soon after entering the water, a large
inquisitive leopard seal made its way to the divers. Some of the divers
photographed and videoed the seal with some choosing to snorkel
near the leopard seal at the end of the dive. The divers saw a variety of
sponges and fish. The second dive of the day was at Shag Wall in Paradise
Harbour. This dive was a wall dive with the wall covered in kelp with many
different coloured star fish attached. All divers enjoyed this dive and they
commented on the improved visibility. During the dive three crabeater
seals also swam along the dive site.
DAY 9: WHALERS BAY, DECEPTION ISLAND
AM: In the morning the divers and snorkellers enjoyed diving and
snorkeling in Whalers Bay, Deception Island. Both divers and snorkellers
saw an abundance of brittle starfish, sea urchins, colourful starfish and
whale bones with growth on them. Most of the divers stayed in the water
for between thirty to forty minutes.
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KAYAKING LOG BY BoB PoWeLL
PADDLERS:
George Young Ray McKinnon
Judy Coyle Raelene Bowtell
Laraine Cook Christie Taylor
Jo Kinghorn Richard Mark
John Allen Donna Beckley
Ian Belcher
DAY 1: BEAGLE CHANNEL, NO PADDLES
DAY 2: DRAKE PASSAGE
DAY 3: SOUTH SHETLAND ISLANDS: BARRIENTOS ISLAND
PM: South Shetland Islands: Barrientos Island (10 Kayakers) After a relatively
calm day at sea the Polar Pioneer arrived at 6pm in the South Shetland
Islands in calm and sunny conditions. The kayak team, after going ashore
via zodiac, adjusted their kayaks and discussed safety issues on shore.
Ready to practice their paddling techniques, the team shoved into the
bay and explored the coastline for 1.5 hours. The dramatic sunset over the
jagged rocks and coastline was our backdrop for our first paddle and we
were led back to the Polar Pioneer by the rising moon. 5kms
DAY 4: TRINITY ISLAND
AM: Mikkelsen Harbour on Trinity Island: (10 Kayakers) We began our paddle
in cloudy conditions with a light 5-8 knot wind, which was ideal for our first
time entering the kayaks from the back deck. Once the team was safely in
our kayaks, we toured the coastline of the bay taking in the fur seals, gentoo
penguin colonies, and glacial fronts. We then circumnavigated D’Hainaut
Island, which had a small Argentinian Base, several blue whale skeletons,
and the remains of an old whaler’s boat. We then paddled outside of the
bay to explore a nearby rocky islet where we landed to take in the fur seals,
whale skeletons, and more glacial fronts. 12kms
PM: Hydrurga Rocks: Landing and kayaking cancelled due to high winds.
DAY 5: PETERMANN ISLAND ; ARGENTINE ISLANDS (VERNADSKY)
AM: Petermann Island: (10 Kayakers) Starting on the south end of the
island, we explored the coves of the eastern side of the island on our way
north. Once rounding the cape, the wind and 5 foot swell pushed our
boats south around icebergs and sea cliffs. After a strong paddle down
the coast we entered the narrow passage between Petermann Island, a
large grounded iceberg and several small islets. 8kms (sunny and 5-8
knots wind)
PM: Argentine Islands (Vernadsky): (5 Kayakers) In snowy and windy
conditions, our team paddled directly south to Vernadsky Station. After
surviving the Zodiac “tsunami” (Peter’s Zodiac) our team arrived 20
minutes later and toured the base. After completing the tour, we set out
to circumnavigate Winter Island via the narrow Skua Channel and Cornice
Channel. We then explored the “Three Little Pigs” and the “Buttons” along
with several magical grounded ice bergs. We also had the joy of watching
two “crabbies” play king of the ice floe before heading back to the ship
via a short visit with Pelagic Australis and an exploration of nearby Grotto
Island. 12kms
DAY 6: FISH ISLANDS; DETAILLE ISLAND.
AM: Fish Islands: Zodiac cruise due to high winds.
PM: Detaille Island: Cancelled due to high winds and stormy conditions.
DAY 7: YALOUR ISLANDS; PLENEAU ISLAND; BOOTH ISLAND
AM: Yalour Islands: We entered our kayaks from the ship in bumpy and
windy/rainy conditions (10-14 knots) and paddled into the lee of the
nearest grounded iceberg. From there we hopped between grounded
icebergs on our way to the Yalour Islands. Once in the lee of the main
island we explored the small islets and grounded icebergs to the south.
Picking our way through the narrow slots and using the islands to shield
us from the wind we had a remarkably rewarding paddle and enjoyed
visiting the many small Adelie penguin colonies, the countless Antarctic
terns, and even the elusive leopard seal. 8kms; 6 kayakers
PM: Pleneau and Booth Island and the Iceberg graveyard: (9 kayakers) In
the lee of Booth Island, the kayak team travelled downwind in snowy and
cloudy conditions along the coastline exploring several large Icebergs that
were grounded near shore. We then paddled west toward Pléneau Island
where we explored the rocky coastline, gentoo penguin colonies and
several curious Weddell seals. After an extensive poke-around, we pointed
our kayaks into the Iceberg graveyard where we found many surprising
azure blue bays and “beaches.” Our 3.5-hour paddle went by in a flash as
we were awed and amazed by the endless shapes, colors, and textures.
Active Weddell seals also surprised us around many turns by porpoising
along side our kayaks. 14kms
DAY 8: PORT LOCKROY; PARADISE BAY
AM: Port Lockroy: (2 Kayakers). Most of the kayak team elected to take the
morning off in preparation for the afternoon paddle (and also to recover
from the evening’s festivities!). George and Bob pushed off from the ship
in cloudy and wet conditions to explore Port Lockroy (and the two yachts)
before journeying down the Peltier Channel and passing Thunder Glacier!
11kms
PM: Paradise Bay: (7 Kayakers). We had spectacular conditions (calm and
cloudy) as we paddled from the ship toward Waterboat Point. In the first
kilometer of our paddle the nearby glacier calved massive icebergs setting
the tone for the excursion. We wove our way amongst the icebergs, bergy
bits, and brash ice as large snowflakes floated by. Weddell seals provided
entertainment before we landed on a small islet. A lone lost elephant seal
welcomed us ashore before we climbed to the top to take in the view of
Paradise Bay. On our return paddle to Almirante Brown Station we had to
navigate through the thick brash ice before finally stepping foot on the
Antarctic continent. 14.3kms
DAY 9: DECEPTION ISLAND
AM: Deception Island: (8 Kayakers). On our last paddle we began our trip
in Whalers Bay. Calm conditions allowed our team to paddle through
Neptune’s Bellows and the outside of the island. After paddling between
a large tower and the cliff-lined coast we made our way to the bay below
Neptune’s Window. We enjoyed wonderful views of Bailey’s Head before
returning to Polar Pioneer. 6kms
27
polar plunge
29
BBQ ON THE BOW
BIRD SPECIES LOG
BIRD SPECIES FEBRUARY10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
Kelp Goose X
Gentoo Penguin X X X X X
Chinstrap Penguin X X X
Adelie Penguin X X X
Macaroni Penguin X
Magellanic Penguin X
Wandering Albatross X X
Royal Albatross X
Black-browed Albatross X X
Grey-headed Albatross X X
Light-mantled Albatross
Northern Giant Petrel X X
Southern Giant Petrel X X X X X X X X
Antarctic Petrel
Cape Petrel X X X X
Snow Petrel X
Southern Fulmar X
Antarctic Prion X X
White-chinned Petrel X X
Wilson's Storm-Petrel X X X X X X X
Black-bellied Storm-Petrel X X
Imperial Cormorant X
Rock Cormorant X
Antarctic Cormorant X X X X X X
Snowy Sheathbill X X X X
Chilean Skua X
Brown Skua X X X
South Polar Skua X X X X X
Kelp Gull X X X X X X X X
Dolphin Gull X
Antarctic Tern X X X X X X
South American Tern X
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MAMMAL SPECIES FEBRUARY10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
Antarctic Fur Seal X X X X X X
Southern Elephant Seal X X
Crabeater Seal X X X X
Weddell Seal X X X
Leopard Seal X X X X X
Minke Whale X X
Fin Whale X
Humpback Whale X X X X
Southern Bottlenose Whale X
MAMMAL SPECIES LOG
ExPEDITIONERSJohn Allen
Donna Beckley
Ian Belcher
Paula Benz
Rebekah Benz
Raelene Bowtell
Robyn Bradshaw
Janet Brooksbank
Thomas Bucher
Michelle Buttfield
Dale Byrne
Tor Carlson
Marian Carroll
Robin Carter
Rebecca Chin
Ross Coleman
Laraine Cook
Charles Copeland
Michelle Cossor
Helen Cowan
Sheldon Coxon
Peter Coxon
Judy Coyle
Heinz Francke
Glenys Greenwood
John & Jean Kelley
Jo Kinghorn
Darren Kirkbride
Alexandra Kotecki
Jeffery Leach
Beate Maassen-
Francke
Richard Mark
Ray McKinnon
Domenic Murabito
Richard Murray
Alex & Kate
Newcombe
Gayle Oddy
Matti Ovaska
Tracy Price
Bruce Reineker
Mark Seldon
Michelle Smith
Bernard Staehli
Christie Taylor
Terrell Taylor
Sue & David Thomas
Dana Trtica
Leanne Van der
Merwe
George Young
Arielle Zagury
33
Expedition Leader: Howard Whelan
Assistant Expedition Leader: Liz Pope
Hotel Manager: Anna Taylor
Naturalist & Lecturer: Michael Shepard
Doctor: Jamin Mulvey
Head Chef: Gray Kirkpatrick
Sous Chef: Tim Moore
Kayaking Master: Bob Powell
Dive Master: Martin McGrath
Dive Assistant: Steve Boyd
Snorkelling Guide: Peter Szyszka
General Hand: Tina Entwistle
Master: Yury Gorodnik
Chief Mate: Dmitry Chuvakov
Second Mate: Yury Matrosov
Third Mate: Vadim Markovskii
Radio Operator: Sergey Polyak
Chief Engineer: Evgeniy Pavlov
Second Engineer: Pavel Voronov
Third Engineer: Evgeny Petukhov
Fourth Engineer: Yurii Horobets
Electrical Engineer: Grigorii Surmin
Boatswain: Sergei Andronov
Able Seaman: Valerii Riabtcev
Sergey Ushakov
Eduard Skarina
Motorman Vladimir Zhukov
Igor Tikhonov
Head Stewardess: Elena Shtreit
Stewardess: Diana Babaeva
Elena Bezgodova
Irina Lurkina
Liubov Andronova
Laundry Stewardess: Alona Usatenko
Russian Crew Chef: Viktor Kolomeetc
Steve Boyd
Rebecca Chin
Jamin Mulvey
Kate Newcombe
Matti Ovaska
Liz Pope
Bob Powell
Michael Shepard
Peter Szyszka
Howard Whelan
ExPEDITION STAFF POLAR PIONEER CREW PHOTO CREDITS
Adventure with usIntimate, educational, small group voyages to some of the world’s wildest and most remote destinations, aboard quality expedition vessels.
Antarctica & South GeorgiaProtected waterways beneath spectacular, glacier-draped mountains, penguins, seals, whales, historic sites and scientific stations.
european ArcticPolar bears roam pack ice for seals, walrus and whales. Deep fjords and towering icebergs meet colourful tundra and fossil-rich plains.
Alaska’s Inside PassageWildlife-rich fjords, calving glaciers and humpback playgrounds. Majestic forests filled with black and brown bears, wolves and moose.
ecuador & GalapagosAmazon’s rainforest tribes and sacred cultures, Andean volcanoes and shorelines of marine iguanas, giant tortoises and sea lions.
Kimberley CoastAustralia’s wildest frontier boasts terracotta cliffs andancient rock paintings. Island hop in search of turtles,crocodiles and whales.
Our other destinations include: Russian Coast, Papua New Guinea, Patagonia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan.
www.auroraexpeditions.com.au