Tools needed for job (10 mm socket and swivel extension, flat-

tip screwdriver, 10 & 13 mm wrenches, needle nose pliers, 5

& 6 mm allen wrenches. Flat file may or may not be needed)

1) Shut fuel off at tank.

(lever swung AWAY from

fuel line fitting)

2) Remove fuel line from carburetor inlet and drain fuel line.

Parts for installation. Not shown (but included) is a piece of

new fuel line & clamp for connecting fuel tank to new carbure-

tor. (note that carb is pictured with new oil bath filter

assy...some carbs do not have this)

Existing components. Muffler has been removed for clarity.

You do not need to remove the muffler for installation, but

it sure is easier to do the work when it is not present.

3) Drain fuel from fuel bowl on Carburetor. Black plastic

bowl has spring loaded push button. Metal bowl has wing

nut/bolt.

ACME AL/ALN Series Engine Carburetor Replacement (points & condenser engines)

Carbure-

Valve

Cover

Intake Gaskets

Linkage &

Heat Dampening

Illustrated parts list

Feedcock ON

Feedcock OFF

Valve cover breather tube

Valve cover

NOTE: if your engine has Solid State ignition (and already has a new-style valve cover assy), DISREGARD figure 5 & 11 thru 13

5) Remove allen head bolt fastening breather tube to valve

cover assembly with 5mm allen wrench.

6) Remove nuts fastening carburetor to engine. 7) Remove wavy washers from studs with needle-nose pli-

ers, or, if you are good, your fingers. BE CAREFUL not to

drop washer into opening below on valve cover.

8) Loosen clamp screw holding throttle linkage rod to gover-

nor arm. Slide rod out of clamp to right.

9) Remove old carburetor from engine.

4) Remove air filter assembly (oil-bath assembly shown, or

you may have a rectangular, dry paper filter assembly in-

stead). Drain oil from cup of oil-bath assembly. (old oil bath

filter will NOT be re-used; the new carb will have a new oil

bath filter….if you have a dry filter, it will be re-used.)

Use a 10mm socket or

wrench for the upper nut

(a swivel extension

helps clear the air inlet

elbow if using a socket).

You are limited to the

wrench for the lower nut.

Throttle linkage rod

Governor arm

11) Remove bolts fastening valve cover assembly to engine

block with 10mm socket or wrench.

BE CAREFUL not to drop or allow anything to fall into the

valve chamber while the cover is off!

12) Assemble new valve cover assembly. Stack exterior cover

on top of interior cover with cork gasket between the two.

Slotted end of rubber tube fits into hole on exterior cover.

If the new valve cover assy. hits the upper edge of the governor

linkage cover, this is where a flat file is employed….you may

have to file a little material away from the governor cover.

10) Remove old intake gasket. (May have to scrape off with

razor.)

External view

of new valve

cover assembly

Internal view of

new valve cover

assembly

13) Install new cover assembly with “tab” at top and with

breather tube pointing away from the recoil starter.

15) Install throttle linkage to carb: Slide anti-chatter spring

over straight end of linkage rod. Insert curved end of linkage

rod into inner (larger) hole of throttle shaft arm on carburetor.

Hook spring to outer (smaller) hole.

16) Install the new carburetor: First, take the straight end of

the linkage rod and fit it into the hole in the governor arm

clamp. Slide the carburetor over the studs. Install upper nut on

carb mounting finger-tight for now. The linkage rod MAY be

in a bit of a bind due to the fact that the throttle shaft arm on

the new carburetor is further “out” from the engine, and may

not line up with the governor arm as well. If this is the case,

Remove the linkage rod from the governor arm. Take needle-

nose pliers and twist the top of the governor arm just a bit so

the hole in the clamp is pointing “in-line” with the direction the

throttle shaft arm. Reinsert the throttle rod in the governor arm

clamp and check for smooth movement. (NOTE: may have to

remove carb from mounting studs to get linkage rod out of /

back into the clamp) When satisfied with linkage, install wavy

washers and nuts, tighten with 10mm socket or wrench. DO

NOT tighten linkage clamp screw yet.

17) Adjust governor / throttle linkage: Move the governor arm

all the way to the “right” by lifting up on the engine throttle

lever (down at bottom...this is the lever that the throttle cable is

hooked up to...if the throttle cable is still attached, you can

achieve this by simply moving the throttle lever on the handle-

bars to the “full throttle” position). Then, rotate throttle shaft

arm to fully open position (rotating Counter-clockwise looking

at TOP of carb) With components in these positions, tighten

Governor arm clamp screw down on throttle rod. Hook the

loose end of anti-chatter spring to governor arm clamp screw,

on the threaded part visible below the head.

14) Install new intake gaskets: Sandwich the heat dampening

spacer (engine block-gasket-spacer-gasket) between the gas-

kets. If the studs are long enough, use the spacer included

with the kit. The tip of the stud can be flush with the face of

the nut when using the spacer. If the studs are too short (stud

recessed below face of nut when tightened), remove the spacer

and just use one gasket.

Throttle shaft arm

Throttle shaft arm

Linkage rod

Governor arm clamp

Throttle lever

19) Run new fuel line from fuel tank to intake on carburetor.

Secure with supplied clamps (the hose will fit loosely at the

carb and tight at the tank, but it will tighten up OK on the

carb with the clamp supplied).

20) Remove cover from NEW oil-bath air filter assembly (if

new carb equipped with one) and fill “cup” with engine oil

(any clean engine oil up to 15w40 is fine) to the fill line

marked near the bottom. Reinstall air filter assembly cover.

(this is a bit tricky...make sure to line up the “tab” on the one

side, or the cover won’t sit down right)

18) Remove governor linkage guard (if engine equipped with one)

with 6mm allen wrench & 13 mm wrench to access governor spring.

Using needle-nose pliers, move governor spring from the middle

hole on the governor arm to the outer hole. Reinstall linkage guard.

Fuel intake nipple

Hook spring in

Outermost hole

(furthest to Right)

NOTES: A. The Red “choke” control on this new carburetor works

BACKWARD from most push-pull chokes...on this one,

you PUSH IN to choke the engine for starting, and PULL

OUT for the “run” position.

B. After starting engine, adjust the idle mixture and idle stop

screws on the new carb for proper operation if needed.

Engine should idle smoothly, and accelerate without much

hesitation. (Idle mixture screw should run about 1.5 to 2

turns out from bottom.)

C. Make sure the nuts or bolts that attach the air filter assem-

bly to the carb are tight. (the factory pre-assembles the air

filter / filter mount to the carb, but they are not always

tightened properly)

Idle Mixture

screw

Idle stop

screw