Accessories & Trims

Accessories

A range of products that are designed to accompany items of clothing to complete an overall look. Usually intended to be decorative, common examples are handbags, ties, belts, scarves, hats and jewellary.

FindingsConsist of all components of a garment except the body fabric; they include

• closures or fasteners• Trims• labels• threads• elastics• linings• shoulder pads• sewing threads

Trims

Trims are decorative additions to the garment and they could be either functional or decorative.

• Decorative trims are selected and applied to enhance the aesthetic appeal of a garment but are not essential to garment function or performance.

(Appliqués, embroidery, motifs) • Functional trims are an integral part of the garment

structure and use. They serve specific purpose in garment performance and their aesthetic contributions are optional.

(ribbons, braids, laces and other narrow fabric trims)

• Closures or fasteners(will be discussed in details)

• Trims

Embroidery

Is a decorative pattern superimposed on an existing fabric by machine stitching.

Appliqués

Decorative fabric patches applied to the garment generally die cut from fusible backed fabric ironed on and then permanently attached with zigzag stitches.

MotifsThe term motif is used to describe a decorative addition to a garment. The use of motifs carrying a company’s name, trademark or logo is a very common. They are available in wide variety of types, sizes and methods of applications.

BindingsThese are functional trims used to finish the outer edges of garments. They are used to finish necklines, armholes, hems, and front openings. Binding may be made of a variety of materials including bias cut wovens, knit strips and braids.

Bindings need flexibility to conform to garment curves. Knit and bias binding have more stretch and flexibility than woven bindings cut in straight grain.

Edgings (narrow fabric trims)These are used to emphasize the style lines, outline shapes. They may be applied to edges or included in seams of garment components. Common types of edgings are • Piping• Lace • Ribbon• Tapes• Elastics

Pipingis a covered cord that forms a raised edge along seams that often contrasts with the colour of the garment. Manufactures are use piping to decorate the inside of some lined jackets and coats as well as outside of garments.

Piping is best in straight seams. It is difficult to apply around sharp curves or corners, a skilled operator is required to avoid bulky or puckered results. . It is use to stabilize seams, and outline components.

LacesThese are another type of edgings often used to trim neck lines and sleeves, particularly in sleepwear and infants and toddlers clothing.

Ribbon

TapesThese are often used along the joining stitching in a superimposed seam if there is a risk that the seam may stretch in wear and either distort the garment or cause the stitching to crack.

Uses of tapes • Strengthening

Shoulder seams in knitted fabrics, Waist seams on dresses (where flared skirt is applied to the bodice)

• Fixing and hanginghanger loop

• Decoration

ElasticElastics may be used to create an expandable closure or opening in a garment.

Elastics has two functions:• To expand when stretched • To recover to its original dimension when released

Logos may be incorporated into elastics especially in undergarments. Trim elastics are applied to the outer part of the garment so they are readily visible.

Elastic expansions makes it easier to pull on garments and in many cases eliminates the need for plackets or other closures. Garments with elastic expansion requires fewer materials and operations, thus reducing production costs.

ApplicationsElastic applications may be exposed or enclosed.

ApplicationsElastic applications may be exposed or enclosed.

Exposed elastic applications are often used at the waistline of underwear and lingerie. Exposed elastic may be applied to the outside or inside of a garment and not covered by a casing or cover stitch. (sleeves of children's dresses, lingerie, underwear, swim wear)

Enclosed elastic applications are concealed by a fabric casing or cover stitching. Casings may be formed by folding fabric around elastic for stitching, or applying casing materials to the garment, double-stitching two adjacent garment pieces together, or using a cover stitch over the elastic. Enclosed elastic be more comfortable and aesthetically pleasing because the elastic is covered or concealed and they are also be more durable because the elastic is covered and protected but bulkier due to the double thickness of fabric used.

Labels

Most apparel contains several types of labels including brand, size, care and fibre identification.

Paper labels called hangtags and billboards are part of the apparel at the point of sale. These are temporary labels that are designed primarily for marker\ting purposes.

The labels with the highest standards of appearance are woven to a narrow width, with the necessary information woven into them. These types of labels are used in men’s and women’s tailored garments.

The least expensive labels are printed on a large area of woven, thermoplastic fabric and heat sealed to the narrow width required. They can be delivered to the garment manufactured as a roll of individual labels to be cut apart by hand or already cut and sealed to length.

Garments often carry labels in more than one position. Eg brand and size sewn to the neckline

Fibre content and care label side seam

Styles of labels and application methods

Double with a single fold open at one endFlat with no ends folded back yokes, pockets Flat with ends folded in collar bands, back neck facingFolded loops they have horizontal orientation

with diagonally folded ends that are inserted in a seams

Include more information about labels here

Lining

Lining is a unit assembled in the same or similar silhouette as the garment or a portion of the garment. It is applied to the inside of the garment to finish it and to hide the inner construction of the garment.

Lining is the material used to cover part or the entire inside part of a garment. These are generally functional part of a garment. Lining materials can be used for small garment sections such as pockets and for complete garments.

Uses of lining

• To obtain a quality finish• To give better shape retention• To reduce stretching and wrinkling• To give wearer comfort• To give wearer warmth• To mask transparency• Increase the life of the garment by covering the

inner construction details by protecting the fashion fabric from abrasion during wear.

Selection of lining fabrics

• Care requirement should be similar to that of the remainder of the garment

• Quality of the lining should be appropriate to the type of the garment in which it is used (coat lining should add warmth to the garment)

• Lining material should be sufficiently opaque to hide the inner construction of the garment

• Lining should be smooth enough to enable the wearer to easily slide the garment on and off

• Must be static free so that it does not cling to the garment fabric of to undergarment.

Types of linings• Partial lining• Full lining

Lining materials • Manmade fibres• Natural fibres• Blended fibres

Guidelines to follow when applying linings to garments

• The size of the lining• The grain line of the lining• The method of assembly

In most cases size of the lining will not be the same as that of the garment fabric. Therefore two different sets of patterns one set for the garment fabric and the other one for the lining should be prepared.

• The grain line of the lining should follow the grain line of the garment parts.

• Most linings are cut and assembled separately to the garment parts. They are stitched to the garment parts such as the neckline, armholes, sleeves and bodice hem.

Factors governing the selection of lining materials

• The garment fabric• The quality of the lining smooth and durable and easy

to handle and have good colour fastness properties

• The cost of the garment

Shoulder pads

• Shoulder pads are shaped pads used at the shoulder areas of a garment to give a raised shape or an extended shoulder line to the finished garment.

• Shoulder pads are also used to give firmness to the contour of armholes and shoulder areas. In some situations without shoulder pads the joining seam might collapse and loose its shape. The application of shoulder pads always gives a garment a quality finish. They can be either detachable or non detachable.