A Toast to the Good 'Ol Days
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Transcript of A Toast to the Good 'Ol Days
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The citys current Golden Ageof cocktails continues to be
inspired by the past. Drinkingby todays standards requiresa high tolerance and a localhistory lesson. It also providesa great excuse to play dress-up.By Camper EnglishPhotography by Erin Kunkel
Good
OlDays
AToast,tothe
GET THE LOOKFor Comstock Saloon owner Jonny
Raglin, every days an excuse to get
into costume. He doesnt just mix
Barbary Coast cocktails; he looks
every inch the part.
Vintage wea:Mission Thrift, 2330
Mission St., 415-821-9560
Feda papeby hat: I feel
naked without it. Goorin Bros., 111
Geary St., 415-362-0036, goorin.com
Custm-made vests: Cayson
Culinary Designs, 415-695-9596,
caysondesigns.com
Ties anything Bitish: Cable Car
Clothiers,200 Bush St., 415-397-4740, cablecarclothiers.com
eat+drink
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Like a Saturday night in the Castro,
men outnumbered women in San
Francisco 70-to-1 during the Gold
Rush years. The watering holes were
a mix o simple saloons and opulent hotels. Many
o these establishments burned in the 1906
earthquake and fre and were rebuiltjust in
time or Prohibition.
Look For: Sailing ships, gold miners, bordellos,
elaborate carved wood bars, brick walls, signage using
the word saloon, waxed mustaches
SF CLSSCS: Hotel Utah Saloon, The Saloon,
Savoy-Tivoli
Mor rMxS: Comstock Saloon, Wayfare Tavern,
Taverna Aventine
T BBL:The Bartenders Guide, or How to Mix
Drinks by Jerry Thomas (1862)
WT To rk: pisco punch, Anchor Steam beer,
shot of whiskey
Barbary Coast(18481858)
Pisco Punch2 ounces pisco
1 ounce fresh lemon juice
1 ounce Small Hand Foods
pineapple gum syrupCombine everything in a shaker.
Shake. Strain into a chilled glass.
Taverna Aventine, 582 Washington St., 415-981-1500, aventinesf
.comComstock Saloon, 155 Columbus Ave., 415-617-0071,
comstocksaloon.comWayfare Tavern, 558 Sacramento St., 415-
772-9060, wayfaretavern.comThe Saloon, 1232 Grant Ave.,
415-989-7666Savoy-Tivoli , 1434 Grant Ave., 415-362-7023Hotel
Utah Saloon, 500 4th St., 415-546-6300, thehotelutahsaloon.com
We can thank Prohibition or spreading
American cocktails around the world
(see: eeing bartenders), not to men-
tion necessitating speakeasy bars where
the sexes fnally were allowed to commingle. But it wasnt
all good news: You had to do it illegally. Then, as now, the
Tenderloin was the best place to look or underground
drinking establishments. One ormer SF speakeasy, trap-
door and all, is now occupied by Bourbon & Branch.
Look For: hidden entryways, secret rooms, the mob, gambling,
flappers, bathtubs
SF CLSSCS: Tosca Caf, Caf du Nord
Mor rMxS: Bourbon & Branch, Rickhouse, The Ambassador
T BBL: The Savoy Cocktail Bookby Harry Craddock (1930)
WT To rk oW: White Lady, Sidecar, Tequila Sunrise
The Ambassador, 673 Geary St., 415-563-8192, ambassador415.comBourbon &
Branch, 501 Jones St ., 415-931-7292, bourbonandbranch.comCaf du Nord, 2174
Market St., 415-861-5016, cafedunord.comRickhouse, 246 Kearny St., 415-398-2827,
rickhousebar.comTosca Caf, 242 Columbus Ave., 415-986-9651, toscacafesf.com
Speakeasy(19201933)
White Lady2 ounces gin
1 ounce lemon juice
1 ounce Cointreau
Combine everything in a
shaker. Shake. Strain into
a chilled glass.
CoMSToCk SLoo
rCkoS
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S
F bars Henry Aricas (1970) and Perrys (1969) are both
credited with starting the ern-bar trend that wound up
in a starring role as the Regal Beagle in Threes Company
and launched a thousand T.G.I. Fridays. Still, while
the new ormula Galliano isnt hal bad (welcome back, HarveyWallbanger), were not sure that, cocktail-wise, a ern bar revival is
an entirely good idea. Plant-wise, bring it on.
Look For: faux Tiffany lamps, brass accents, knick-knacks, overstuffed
furniture, indoor plants, occasional wicker
SF CLSSCS: Perrys Union Street, Royal Oak, The Lion Pub
Mor rMxS: Eddie Rickenbackers (from the founder of Henry
Africas), The Residence
T BBL:Jones Complete Bar Guide by Stan Jones (1977)
WT To rk: Lemon Drop, Harvey Wallbanger, wine spritzer
Eddie Rickenbackers, 133 2nd St., 415-543-3498Perrys Union Street, 1944 Union St., 415-
922-9022, perryssf.comThe Residence, 718 14th St., 415-797-8866Royal Oak, 2201 Polk St.,
415-928-2303The Lion Pub, 2062 Divisadero St., 415-567-6565
Fern Bar(19701980s)
Lemon Drop2 ounces citrus flavored
vodka
1 ounce lemon juice
ounce simple syrup
(equal parts sugar and
water, shaken until
sugar dissolves)
Rub lemon wedge
around outside rim of
a cocktail glass and dip
glass in sugar to coat.
Combine ingredientsinto a shaker. Shake.
Strain into a chilled
glass. Garnish with
lemon wedge.
You know the drill: Nick
and Nora, Dorothy Parker,
Dean Martin, James Bond.
Between the supper clubs,
three-drink lunches and neighborhood
bars, SFs long loved this simple drink. In
act, some say the Martinez, which origi-
nated here, was the martini precursor.
Martini Bar(1930s1960s)
The Martini3 ounces gin or vodka
2 dashes dry vermouth
Stir all ingredients over ice
and strain into cocktail glass.
Garnish with cocktail olive.
Aub Zam Zam, 1633 Haight St., 415-861-2545 Bix, 56 Gold
St., 415-433-6300, bixrestaurantcom Martunis, 4 Valencia
St., 415-241-0205 Top of the Mark, 1 Nob Hill, 415-616-6916,
topofthemark.comLone Palm, 3394 22nd St., 415-648-0109,
lonepalmbar.com
eat+drink
Look For: white tablecloths, jazz bands, Rat
Pack wannabes, cocktail servers
SF CLSSCS: Persian Aub Zam Zam, Top of
the Mark
Mor rMxS: Bix, Lone Palm, Martunis
T BBL: The Hour: A Cocktail Manifesto by
Bernard DeVoto (1948)
WT To rk: dry martini, gimlet,
whisky highball
T rSC
Bx
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The tiki trend began in Hollywood in 1934 at
Don the Beachcomber and was soon copied in
Oakland by Trader Vics. Ater WWII, these
South Pacifc theme bars spread around the coun-
try, but cocktail quality declined as the quantity o imitators
increased. Now local revivalists are bringing back better drinks.
Tiki
19341980s
Bamboo Hut, 479 Broadway, 415-989-8555, maximumproductions.comSmugglers Cove,
650 Gough St., 415-869-1900, smugglerscovesf.comTonga Room, The Fairmont Hotel, 950
Mason St., 415-772-5278, tongaroom.comTradr Sam, 6150 Geary Blvd., 415-221-0733
Mai Tai2 ounces aged Jamaican rum
ounce lime juice
ounce orange curaao
1 teaspoon orgeat syrup
Combine everything in a shaker with
ice. Shake. Pour contents into an Old
Fashioned glass. Garnish with lime
wheel and mint sprig.
Look For: indoor waterfalls, coconut bowls, rum, drinks on fire,
flower garnishes
SF CLSSCS: Tradr Sam, Tonga Room (while it lasts)
Mor rMxS: Smugglers Cove, Bamboo Hut
T BBL: Beachbum Berry Remixedby Jeff Berry (SLG, 2010)
WT To rk: Mai Tai, Zombie, Scorpion Bowl
SMLrS CoV