A TASTE OF GOOD LIVING DECEM BE

Wines of 2005 Restaurants for special occasions Places for everyday eating

s &

food! JUSTINE DRAKE: food writer and stylist, cookbook author

and food consultant; in the food-media industry for the past I 6 years. She worked at Fair Lady magazine from 198" to 1997, creating the hugely

popular Busy Cook column thai

was to be consolidated into ;: cookbook that enjoyed great success both in South Africa and in the UK. In 1997 she joined Men's Health as fooe editor and in 2000 producee

the Men's Health cookbook, eat.Today she is the food editor for both

Shape (with whom she recently produced her latest cookbook flavour) and the Discovery magazine, focusing on the importance of a balanced diet as part of a healthy lifestyle.

Justine is also the presenter of the BBC Food television series Just in Africa, a culinary travelogue currently being broadcast on SABC3

At the time of going to press with this issue, she was voted one of the top 20 in BBC Food's "My Favourite Chef'

competition! Only seven episodes of her programme had aired and already she's right up there with ce-

lebrity cooks like Nigella Lawson and Naked Chef Jamie Oliver.

J )

Appointed editor of WINE magazine's SA restaurant guide in 2005, Justine was integrally involved in the redesign and relaunch of Top 100 Restaurants under the new title, dine, now

with a "by the people, for the people" approach to eating out. "I eat and drink for a living, so how

bad can it be?! As long as you don't take yourself

or food too seriously you'll always have fun - and

that, I think, is what life is all about."

Superb cuisine, exceptional service and wonderful wines in a setting that tends to be more posh than casual, with prices to match the more serious dining experience.

Auberge Michel - Stuffed rabbit back with tomato tapenade, baby marrow pancakes and a rose mary jUl.

58 WINE DECEMBER 2005

AUBERGE MICHEL SANDOWN - FINE DINING

122 Pretoria Avenue, Sandown.

Johannesburg. Tel 0 I I 883 7013.

Open Tues-Fri for lunch & dinner.

Mon-Sat for dinner. No BYO.

FOOD: classic French

AMBIENCE: sophisticated and chic, yet homely, with a variety of dining areas SERVICE: warm, friendly and very efficient WINELIST' staggering selection of New and Old World wines; a stroll through

their cellar is a must.

VALUE: fair to good

Only one restaurant in South Africa can rightfully say it was the first to receive the very prestigious five stars granted by the South African Tourism Grading Council -

and Auberge Michel's grading is indicative of a restaurant on a par with international guidelines and practices in terms or a sys- tem designed and implemented to help the restaurant industry maintain a consist- ently high standard.

I n just over a year, Auberge Michel has become the restaurant of choice for the who's who of Joburg society Politicians and influential businessmen abound, but it's not all about business - forget the next big merger: it's what's on your plate that counts. And from arrival, you are greeted by staff who are proud, quick off the mark and sincerely helpful. Set in beautiful grounds with huge trees and an expertly crafted, contemporary garden, you can choose to sit on the terrace or opt for a variety of dining room options indoors. But no matter where you choose to sit, the calming pale hues of the decor and a clever overall design afford a feeling of tranquillity and privacy to the last.

The food here takes centre stage - dishes like the warm goats cheese with

a hazelnut-honey crust, confit tomatoes and parsley pesto, and an extraordinarily succulent pan-fried guinea fowl with truf- fles, are just two examples of the exquisite flavour combinations available on this In- spired menu. The importance of colour, texture and presentation is obvious in every dish created by chef Frederic Leloup and a mark of his rigorous training at the hands of a number of Michelin-star chefs. Ths same is evident in his sourcing of some European delicacies, most notably turbot. Its delicate flavour and his precise preparation more than justify its cost. Another fish dish worth highlighting is the aromatic Osso Bucco of kingklip and calamari, so delicious it would have you licking the bowl if only you could.

The same attention shines through on the winelist, a good balance between well-known and more exclusive wines.

Average price for two courses: R I 70. By Rewald Drinkwater

GINJA CAPE TOWN - CONTEMPORARY CLASSIC

121 Castle Street, Cape Town.Tel 021426

2368. Open Man-Sat for dinner. BYO R30.

FOOD: modern global AMBIENCE: sophisticated and intimate SERVICE: good WlNELlST: designed to suit every pocket; including some special choices from

boutique estates VALUE: very good, given the standard

A restaurant that wouldn't go amiss in any of the cosmopolitan capitals of the world, Ginja does little to disappoint. Situ-

ated behind a charming, rather derelict facade, the industrial-chic restaurant fea- tures exposed brick walls, large linen- bedecked tables and moody lighting. The long sliver of a space is jam-packed with tables of slick urbanites who know a good thing when they see it.

Chef Mike Basset conjures up an unashamedly fusion menu and, though this global approach may be out of favour with some food cognoscenti, he gets it spot on. The menu is priced by course, which takes the pressure off wallet-

watchers and makes the experience of eating here more carefree.

Signature starters include the foie gras parfait on an oversized platter with slices of marbled chocolate brioche and a "shot" of toasted pistachio nut soup. The unusual presentation is clever, if a little

overly dramatic, but it works brilliantly.

jam-smoked oysters is another example of Basset's boundary-pushing methods.

The veal sweetbread "salad" with chilli

The main menu favours seafood and meat, with plenty of "east meets west" flavours for good measure. The duck

~ "done two ways" is a perennial favourite,

gratin and crispy breast with oodles of baby spinach is finger-licking good. Game fans will love the Shaoxing springbok loin served on wasabi mash - though these intense flavours coupled with the accom-

panying chocolate-glazed figs may be a bit much for some.

The winelist - like the menu - IS divided according to price. You'll find some lesser- seen gems including a selection ofWarwick re-releases and Kanonkop vintages.

Attentive, knowledgeable service com-

pletes the experience. Ideal for an intimate dinner or special celebration, Ginja hits the mark as far as quality-dining experiences go.

Average price for two courses: R 165. By Vicki Sleet

HAIKU CAPE TOWN - CONTEMPORARY FUNKY

33 Church Street, Wale Street Chambers,

Cape Town.Tel 021 4247000.

Open Mon-Fri for lunch & dinner, Sat for dinner. No BYO.

FOOD: authentic Chinese and Japanese AMBIENCE: exciting slick city chic

SERVICE: excellent WlNELlST: extensive, with a wide choice ranging from top-drawer to a selection of easy drinkers, and Asian beers as well VALUE: good

Exquisite attention to detail is evident in

absolutely everything at this "Asian Tapas" establishment - from the custom-made furniture and Asian-styled panga-panga room dividers, the dark granite walls, floors and unadorned, bare tables that

allow the food to play the starring role, to the state-of-the-art kitchen, complete with imported Peking duck roaster, dim

Ginja - Foie gras parfait with slices of marbled chocolate brioche and a "shot" of toasted pistachio nut soup.

WINE mag a zin e

Diners Club lruemational:

ABOVE: Haiku - Japanese Robata. Fillet Shiitake. Beef fillet grilled on an open flame with mustard dipping sauce and

ponzu. BELOW: Mushroom Hargau, three types of Chinese mushrooms steamed in a rice starch pastry.

high-pressure woks, robata grills and all manner of exotic fresh and dried pro- duce.

Haiku bears the same complex sim- plicity as the japanese poetry after which it was named. Treat the menu like a jour- ney and delve into as many areas as you can manage (or afford). There are four kitchens - two japanese and two Chinese. The latter includes dim sum and

wok dishes and the former tempura, sushi, sashimi, tepanyaki and robata items.

Begin with anyone of the numerous dim sum dumplings - steamed, open, closed, fried or rolled - with wonderful seafood, vegetable or chicken fillings (unlike in China, where almost every dish you eat is pork, there's none of that in this restaurant, as a courtesy to its many lew-

ish and Muslim diners). These are presented in small bamboo baskets and served with your choice of up to seven homemade sauces.

Move on to the wok items - anything from a stir-fry with noodles to curries or deep-fried dishes. This menu is so exten- sive it's difficult to know where to begin - thankfully the staff are incredibly know- ledgeable and will happily fill in the gaps and even make up a menu for you.There's salt and pepper calamari with five spice powder that's crispy, light and aromatic, a twice-cooked chilli chicken that's a taste and texture delight, and water beef - beef

poached in oil and then cooked in a mouth-numbing chilli sauce.

From the japanese robata grill, try the sublime fillet and shiitake mushroom as well as the chicken and leek yakitori offer-

ings. There are also a few Western items, like seared tuna and pepper garlic fillet, both served on rocket with salsa.

The winelist is extensive, ranging from a R66 Backsberg Sauvignon Blanc under the title of "easy drinking" to a R300 Thelema Cabernet. Oddly, though, no

vintages are given. No matter. whichever way you look at it, Haiku is a memorable dining experience and a culinary journey that doesn't require the expense of a plane ticket.

Two-course lunch: R90; two-course

dinner: R 180. By Justine Drake

LA COLOMBE CONSTANTIA - FINE DINING

Constantia Uitsig, Spaanschemat River Road,

Constantia. Tel 021 794 2390. Open daily

for lunch & dinner (closed for Sun dinner

in off-season). BYO R30.

FOOD: French Country AMBIENCE: sun-filled, laid-back style with lovely outdoor dining area SERVICE: excellent WlNELlST: Diners Club International Winelist of the Year Award of Excellence

in 2005, with Uitsig and favourites from surrounding farms featuring strongly VALUE: good, considering the standards

Two out of three Capetonian gourmands will attest to having La Colombe on their

"favourite restaurant" list, with its light,

contemporary space the perfect foil for the beautifully dressed plates and intri- cate dishes that fly out of award-winning chef Franck Dangereaux's kitchen.Though an open-plan space with the kitchen in view, there is nary a raised voice, just the quiet buzz of customers chatting, skilled staff translating the French chalkboard menu, and the clink of plates being scraped clean.

Start your meal with fresh crudites stacked in a terracotta pot and served

with homemade herb mayo. Take your pick from the enormous winelist that's an

EAT BEAT

.It\r,lctive:y p,"e$e:ltcc'. rhe restaurant's bestseller; , .... hi<;, rri&~t Ch,)~ge now that w.ntcr IS over is t:,C slow'ro~<1 t'Osc:nary·in;us<!:d I,vn;, shank

by P,)f,'1(.>san mashed potatoes.

.d\ Ice (ream seeln !~e most ins:l,red cessert out of rve opt 0':$,

F3i'w')T'~ Lc:Jge guests arc '.vell looked after by reS\" .. "/I~l manager Vickus Gerber or Carmen G,'eilthMd, the hotel m;:n~gCI:who 'ends her c,"'in~ tc.ich wilen:v!!1' she can,

Three course c'inner: R. ),0, BY r-",EC~TH lLD rollKE.HlTCI-{ELl

horw"r~ P.~~d), E!t~l" 1, Mou nt Edsecombc CQ"" try

Clut>. Uml'lbnz). T~' D3 r $38 2.900. Ope" .even da/5 ~

wc,,~ rOf br,'31«ut I.m~" J.nd cI,I\ner, btr,,!ri.nl[ ~s.~nI,~1

6"(0 R10 Hotel P,",It,nl.

CAPETOWN

HYPERACTIVE TASTE BUDS are obhgillo- ry for iI mea a: t'1is SCI)S(l.t:c·:'l~1 new C;JpC 'Town r'eStlll/I',\nt, And a yen fo:' adventu-e in the dining dqJ'''"tl'll!;!~.t a-id dexterity with chopsticks is <,-dvis· abte: Ic..rn to use tr-cm coco-chop. and l'oJ'1I be on yoUr' ' .... at to c -ie:ml ilCc'len,

There's ;: core •• ~l bol" [0'- <; coda.:t I Of three . ",.In tne re'><.2Uf'.!.Ot. a wnery

I,Sl;.~: UTEGOI:Y

Arr~~iencc

of ~11'\lc·cr.t.:'e·;)rt !C:i:(h~.'l gadgets end fricge-; (each md 'JiduJ 11' chi.l-conlr'OI.'ed) and a t:CV'1 of tJroJdly bCarf'inZ ofiem.ll (ilefs are a s·ght to be 1'10' iV - ccoks IIIC~ - ,"C'Je been lI1\;::lor:ed at r.ug c'9'-?~s~.1nC1uc ~~ S<Y-ne ohhe in~s..,'r.:~h o:ll'C

l.ned vp IOJ' MPCC:jc.(1 ~~ncf a glass $(ree.n. Remind~ me of sho"ping al the "wet rr~I" in Singa,:>orel

If 11',),,;;1$ In Asia h(l\'e rrade YC'J al) expert n the j,1\I' :.xies of itS wide-:-anging c\.isines. rnaste .. :r.~ Hllrlcu's n~CI)U "''1c.''I·t be a coallel'ge, If not. ifs a 1'I.>lI~f:o hC,"\J' the waiter say, "I,Cl me expla n ... "

EX.:>C",c"cing Haiku is cot ur)li~e eatine In Hen Kon£, , .... here the ,win cornerstones of fr"(!shnen ar d flavour are a given. and which can be ;.nf1hi "I )'OU Io~c, ('om sracking a: a c:'"i pai dong (Op('I'I'(lIr

strec; slGll) or going the ' .... +c'e IO,course re. R~t<>na( In~ces are as <f!$t1OCt as Ihos, of

Fr,»rce 01' IUI'I 0..nIO"e~ is. lh~ ic.>..sl comp'tx. 'c.tlorong dt:I.G~lC n<.lICu'"!. end .nJc oil dna ~p!(e $hangrol rs nc.hcr. heavier and sweeter; Szechuan ~ ~1'le( with iocrbes of chi II. Whi~e no less fiery. Hl.l"liln t-as iI dr'er 'n~er,~<ty. whi'c substantial ~kll'l!' f,wl(' is chMcKle.-ised by peppers, garll:, 3in)!l.'r tid ccriandor; ct.,d reart>' Chiu Chow focuses oro :eafood and vegetables.

Ar. H(l.ik~1 you'l find a'i thiS ar.d more, includin& all the (,'.vcu'ites you'vc dreamed of or read about. D m WI':'! ere not to be missed, Me;)n r,g "to tecch [he heart", these mC-;;lhfuls of edb'c tx>,,"e'!'\ (slc:Kr.ed. boi'ed or fried dum~lings) Me b.: ptri

P~I' ng duck IS as goo-:! as you'll [,Cl a~whet he world.

You're encouragec to choose fro:1'l di

"',,¥ to stJl1 !he. lc~nel Ihat con~ ' .... " .. to WAds .. ,'.o'.t.;. .. es, st4!li or robi::'l t:CfOS .tnd gr ••

sections or the me "t), and dishes arrive when theyre readr. Prices are Indlc<!:eci by stllN, 01 being equal to !\30, with .1 minimum charge of R.60 for lunch and R 120 for d nncr. ~\;l only the most

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"BO'IE: " st!!«ioo of c'~li(a(~ - ~nd dtlf(utle - dim y;:n. HEWo'/: S~ Hl.!m

abstern CL.S would stop there, Even if you've had a surfeit of savcu ry stuff, seductive desserts will lead you astray Do 1t m iss the already legendary ccconu: Ice cream, banana crepes and chocolate spri ngroH s.

The word "tapas' usually conjures up mages of (t:nky portions of n;bbly bits, Do.'t be fooled! Helpings arc gCI)CmuS anc :he menu so appealing that only ibosc · ... ..ith the sternest resolve WJII man-

age :0 hold back. Go with a host of ftieO'lds, c: you rrlight be tempted ,0 n;sh into the street to find <l

couple of hungrl passers-by to help you out.. The 'Ninel ist has been given ?S :'T'ltJeh attcotlon

as the menu, ' .... ith the p:imary rO(~S on the f1~- yours of the dishes (chilli and spices arc notori- ously challenging for wine), ],'s ac;\Jisable to ma:ch the intensity of both food and wine: Spi(y disi'.es enjoy crisp, well-chjled whi:es or 1ignt:y (hil!ed reds. Gemly flavoured fare goes better with un- wooded whites. while more profou-id items prefer

heavier ,.· .. hites and r\:lI-bcdied recs, The Ist kicks oii with access-ole easy-dnnkers

available b:; the bottle Or' glass (<111 under R I 00 a oottle) , with heaV'l.vcig:'1t labels and premh.m 'brands ap~eni.y if money's no object.As time goes 'by, less mainstream wines w!1I be introduced for more inq .. isitive guests.Aod a serious collectic'1 of whs'<ies will tempt if this is your t''1ing.

Parking is a prcbler» in th's part of town, which doeso 't seem 10 stop sister re s:aurant Bukh?r(l from bursting at the seams at e-.'er" sittin~. This appears 10 be the w<.y th'ngs are going at I-Iaik teo, so booking ahead is a good id~(%,

Average cost of a f.lll-on rr eal excluding grdt~l:ty and WIne: R I SO.

BY LAN NICE 5NYMAN

Wale Street Chambcr~.ll Church Stre(!t. C~P(! Town.

Tel 021 1H 7000, Open MQnd~y tD frid~y for lUllth. Monday to Saturd.1Y for dinner,

PG62 >

wine cellar

Searching for extraord inary

imported or local wines?

We are IPlll"Ol!ltll 0;:0

offer '~G1ese OUTSTANDING WINES

and many more 1(rom:

Please contact Thea at (021) 448 4105

or visit our website: www.winecellar.co.za

• )~j 'T"f!7T!7!t~·1.;.~~":.!..!7n-n"I"),,) "

CAPE TOWN AND ENVIRONS

~ Wel!7[~'csen elgnt-~2f~e w.nelist and excel rrt rl()use wrr es. \",'Itr some 50 dishes on the

n1enu. tne choice of 168 wines IS wel: bF:yofid

the norm and the reason given for the high curk.sge charge

Bukhara 33 CHURCH STREET, CAPE TOWN.

Lunch Mon-Sat, dinner Mon-Sun. Tel (021) 424-0000; fax (021) 424-0080; email: bukhara@iafrica.com

~ BYO at R20 corkage. Access from a pedestri- an mall, parking at near- by Riebeeck Square.

BIC 0"

FOOD **** WlNELlST **** AMBIENCE *** SERVICE *** VALUE ****

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72

'0 need for sensitive palates to crave an asbestos coating. Dishes are enticingly spicy, with flavours that delight without searing. Go in a party, for the menu offers a selection that begs to be shared, and the dish- es that stream out of the open-plan kitchen in indi- vidual copper-bright bowls, call for experimentation.

You'll find your cutlery on your side plate, wrapped in a practical bib-style napkin that allows executives to mop up their food with nan bread with- out splattering designer ties or blouses. Chat to your waiter about the menu options, for staff are fully con- versant with the range of dishes. Lamb vindaloo will take you to meltdown. Lamb regan. josh, redolent of cloves and cardamom, is milder, the spices cooled with yoghurt. Classic murgb maebani (butter chick-

en) with Basmati rice, fried with jeera and onions. Tandoori lamb chops, marinated with yoghurt and spices; sbeekb kabab (minced lamb with fresh coriander) or tandoor leg of lamb (allow 30 minutes). Soothing side dishes like home-

made yoghurt with cucumber, or garlic and mint. End the meal with a cooling kuifi a tall, conical-

ly shaped ice-cream subtly coloured with cardamom and saffron.

CHANCE TO WIN Lautrec Bordeaux

and a wine course

surroundings, and braising with excellent service and good wine), service is a little gauche, the winelist limited, and wine knowl- edge lacking.

Our waitress promised that the winelist - which includes well- priced Mystery labels - was about to be extended. Meanwhile, I sug- gest that a basic lesson in wine service should be implemented: don't kill the flavour of white wines by over-chilling, and on sweltering summer evenings, offer an ice bucket for reds. "Room tem- perature" does not mean luke- warm.

By Jos Baker

A venue to watch, which in my view has yet to reach its full potential, Take an open mind and adventurous palate and travel the world from your table.

60 Lower Main Road, Observatory, Dinner Man-Sat. Tel (021) 448-0851. BYO R5. Street po.rking (if you co.n find it). The parking area round the block appears to have been taken over by squatters,

RATING IN ETHNIC MIDDLE-EASTERN

CATEGORY FOOD *** WINELIST * AMBIENCE **'!';( SERVICE * VALUE **f':r

eat beat

providing a light, airy contrast to warm terra cotta decor and solid wooden tables and chairs, brought in from India.

You'll fmd your cutlery on your side plate, wrapped in a practical bib-style napkin that allows exec- utives to mop up their food with nan bread without splattering designer ties or blouses. The nan, freshly made to order, is a must, whether plain or with garlic and butter. I can recommend the pudi- Ita parantlia (RS), made with wholewheat bread, butter and dried mint, though I'd have pre- ferred the mint fresh and finely chopped.

Chat to your waiter about the menu options: staff are fully con- versant with the range of dishes. If you like your curry hot, order the lamb uindaloo (R47) to take you to meltdown. The intensely flavoured lamb regan. josh, redo- lent of cloves and cardamom, is milder, the spices cooled with yoghurt (R47).

In tune with customer demand in Indian restaurants world-wide, the most popular dish is the clas- sic murgli mahhani (R42) (butter chicken), that originated at the Moti Mashal restaurant in Delhi, where the sauce was made by adding butter and tomato to the leftover chicken juices in the mari- nade trays. It's delicious with Basmati rice, fried with jeera and onions (R15).

Bukhara Cape Town

At Bukhara, sensitive palates have no need to crave an asbestos coating, for dishes

are enticingly spicy, with flavours that delight without searing. As a fan of milder North Indian food - at home we enjoy reproducing recipes from sources such as Gaylord's, New York, and Cam- ellia Panjabi, marketing director of India's Taj hotel group - it was a pleasure to find this traditional cuisine in the city centre.

Go in a party, for the menu offers a selection that begs to be ordered and shared. And the dish- es that stream out of the open- plan kitchen in individual copper- bright bowls, call for experimenta- tion. I was saddened to hear a table order their "usual" despite the waiter's plea to try something new. But it was certainly testimo- ny to on-going satisfaction.

Regulars can be assured of a personal welcome from host Sabi Sawahal, who has run restaurants in Delhi and Amsterdam. Fortunately for Cape Town patrons, he lost his heart to an Afrikaans girl he met in Italy and followed her home. His profession- alism is apparent in the smoothly flowing operation, even when Bukhara's popularity demands two sittings at night - and the restaurant seats ISO.

The upstairs location overlooks the trees lining the Church Street pedestrian mall, a wall of windows

eat beat

The tandoori secti:oo of the menu offers a rich variety of clas- sic chicken dishes at R28-R40: chicken tikka; mehr ul n isa (minced chicken breasts with cashew nuts and coriander); plus a mild and delicate chicken cheese habab. Tandoori lamb chops (cut- lets marinated with yoghurt and spices) are much in demand at R38; there's also sheehli habab (minced lamb with fresh corian- der) at R30; or tandoori leg of lamb (allow 30 minutes prepara- tion time) at R125.

Prawns in a tandoori or chick- pea marinade (R92 each) feature among the seafoods and the three tasty vegetarian dishes include paneer tikka (tandoori home-made cheese) at R29.

You will pay R15 for soothing

side dishes such as home-made yoghurt with cucumber, or garlic and mint, and huchumber salad (diced cucumber, tomato and onion with an Indian salad dress- ing).

End the meal with a cooling kulfi (R14) a tall, conical-shaped ice-cream subtly flavoured with cardamom and saffron.

We matched our chicken and lamb dishes to a bottle of Klein Constantia Rhine Riesling (R50), its fragrance and fruit perfectly partnering the spices. It's rare to find an eight-page winelist at an Indian restaurant, particularly one as well chosen. With some 50 dishes on the menu, the choice of 168 wines is well beyond the norm - and the reason given for the high corkage charge. Apart from a

few Nederburg wines, all are from smaller farms and even the house specials (from R7 a glass and R28 a bottle) include top labels.

Mark-ups are not shy, some obviously directed at executives out to impress their clients. Under Sauvignon Blancs, it's interesting to see that Springfield Special Cuvee is R8I, just Rl less than Thelema. Annoyingly, no vintages are given. When I'm asked to part with R210 for Stellenzicht Syrah I'd like to know the year. And I'm not sure just what I'd pair it with on the menu.

ByJosBaker

A professional, welcoming venue where authentic North Indian food and consistency draw the crouids. One visit is not enough to sample the range of traditional dishes on offer.

33 Church Street, Cape Town, Lunch Mon-Sat; Dinner Mon- Sun. Tel (021) 240-000. BYO R20. Access from a pedestrian mall; par-king at nearby Riebeeck Square.

RATING IN ETHNIC MIDDLE·EASTERN

CATEGORY FOOD ***0(;( WINE LIST ***~ AMBIENCE *** SERVICE *** VALUE ***

J