AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

MAY & JUNE 2016 EU PRESIDENCY EDITION

The card that offers morethan you can visit

(but you can try)

iamsterdam.com/citycard

P.04 YOU ARE HEREThe heart of the EU Presidency: the Marineterrein

P.08 MARINETERREIN AREAExplore the neighbourhood's best restaurants, museums, bars, cafes and unique spots

P.12 100 YEARS OF AMSTERDAM SCHOOL Dive into the inspiring history of this stunning architectural movement as the city celebrates a century of Amsterdam School design

P.17 A CITY OF OPENNESSDiscover the people who make Amsterdam uniquely open and diverse with the 180 Amsterdammers project

P.20 WHAT'S ONA treasure trove of top tips: exhibitions, events, festivals and hotspots to explore during your stay in Amsterdam

CONTENTS

published for the City of Amsterdam by Amsterdam Marketing editor-in-chief & writer Angel Trinidad project manager Sebas van der Sangen designer Zlatka Siljdedic coordinator Bart van Oosterhout cover photo Eddo Hartmann

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

EU PRESIDENCY

LETTER FROM THE MAYOR

The Netherlands holds the presidency of the Council of the European Union (EU) for the fi rst six months of 2016.Amsterdam is serving as the host for many of activities this role brings. It's a terrifi c honour and responsibility, certainly in view of the topics demanding attention, which must not only be discussed at national and international levels of government, but are equally important at the local level.That is why we don’t wish to limit ourselves as a host to just creating a welcoming atmosphere in Amsterdam for policymakers and government offi cials. We are a city of individual citizens, whose voices also need to be heard during the Council of the EU Presidency. On 21 April, for instance, residents engaged in conversation with the mayors of European capitals during a public debate. And those mayors were here for a reason. I’m very proud to have hosted the fi fth EU Capitals Mayors’ Meeting in the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam. During this event, I was able to speak with my fellow mayors about the signifi cance of cities for Europe. Amsterdam already has a fantastic working relationship with Paris, Berlin and Athens, built on respect and reciprocity. I hope that all the mayors can look back at their visit with satisfaction, and that you’ll have a similar feeling about our city when it’s time to go home. This magazine will hopefully inspire you to enjoy Amsterdam’s welcoming atmosphere.

Mr. E.E. van der LaanMayor of Amsterdam

The card that offers morethan you can visit

(but you can try)

iamsterdam.com/citycard

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE DUTCH EU PRESIDENCY:iamsterdam.com/europe, europebypeople.nl (offi cial cultural programme), eu2016.amsterdam

EU PRESIDENCY4 MINI marineterrein

� e Marineterrein in Amsterdam is the sparkling centre of the Dutch presidency of the Council of the EU for the � rst half of 2016. Located close to Central Station, this former naval dockyard is now a dynamic social and technological hub.

HISTORY

The historical naval dock on Katten-burg Island has existed for over 350 years. In 1655, during the height of the Dutch Golden Age, the site was a large shipyard. Many ships were built there for the naval protection of the Dutch East India Company’s fl eet. One of the few surviving 17th-century buildings in the area is the historic archway; hundreds of labourers, carpenters, mast-makers and painters walked underneath it daily to or from their work. A bell hung above the gate, there to signal the beginning of the workday. This bell can now be found in the Maritime Museum.Meanwhile, the Maritime Museum used to be a central storage warehouse for the admiralty’s fl eet; cannons, sails, fl ags and ship equipment were stored here. The imposing building was designed by Daniel Stalpaert, the same architect who designed the City Hall at Dam Square, now the Royal Palace.

A COMMUNICATIONS,SUSTAINABILITY ANDTECHNOLOGY HUBLocated right next to the beautiful Maritime Museum, the area is now home to several innovative compa-nies and organisations in the fi elds of media, sustainability, technology and social development, amongst others. marineterrein.nl

YOU ARE HERE

SMART CITY EXPERIENCE LAB

Learn more about Amsterdam Smart City’s projects and innovations, aimed at creating greener, more intelligent cities. A Smart ID Card offers information on the projects and answers key questions. There will also be a series of lectures and workshops.

Open on Tuesdays 12 pm – 5 pm & Fridays 9 am – 4 pmamsterdamsmartcity.com

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Q&AWe had a quick chat with Liesbeth Jansen, project director of Marineterrein Amsterdam, about what makes this innovative corner of the city special: TELL US ABOUT THEMARINETERREINThe Marineterrein was established more than 350 years ago on Kattenburg island, which was created in 1655. It was here that the Admiralty of Amsterdam, the precursor to the navy, constructed warships to protect the fleet of the Dutch East India Company. When the shipyard was closed in 1915, the area was used by the Royal Netherlands Navy and the Ministry of Defence for recruitment and selection procedures, training programmes and logistics operations. Over the coming years, the Ministry of Defence will gradually vacate large parts of the area, allowing more businesses and puclic functions to take over this part of the city centre.

WHAT MAKES THE AREA SO SPECIAL?The area has always been separate from the city, but is slowly being opened up to the public. The quay offers a unique view of the city centre. It is quiet, peaceful and green – seem-ingly far removed from the hustle and bustle of the inner city. It is the perfect place to work on solutions for a more sustainable city that also embraces its past. Nowhere else will you find 14 hectares of land with impressive development opportunities just a stone's throw from Amsterdam Central railway station. Luckily, the state and municipal authorities chose to work together to slowly develop this unique area based on the values of innovation, connection and focus. HOW DOES IT FEEL HAVING THE EU PRESIDENCY HERE?During the informal meetings, we noticed heightened security measures, such as

checkpoints, passes and a strict no-visitors policy. We worked with the local tenants to make the necessary preparations. We are also excited about FabCity on Java-eiland, a neighbourhood close to Marineterrein.

ANY FAVOURITE ADDRESSES?Pension Homeland hotel is one of our favourites, and we're looking forward to De Scheepskameel restaurant, operated by the managers of Rijsel restaurant, which opens in May near the bridge over the Dijksgracht canal. During the summer months, NEMO's rooftop terrace offers beautiful views of the city and the IJ. And it doesn't get more traditional than Café Scharrebier on Kadijksplein square. Mediamatic, on the other side of the bridge, has a lovely greenhouse terrace and serves exciting beers and fish caught in the canals. We also recommend Restaurant Choux on De Ruyterkade 128. WHAT FUTURE DEVELOPMENTS CAN WE LOOK FORWARD TO?The Ministry of Defence will have completed its relocation by July 2018, at which time the area will be largely open to the public. There will be room for lots of new tenants and new activities. There will be a dynamic redevelopment of this area during this period of transition. This spring, we invited local residents, researchers, artists and pioneers to brainstorm with us about how the Marineterrein can contribute to enhancing the development and international allure of Amsterdam.

marineterrein.nl

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EU PRESIDENCYMINI6 what's new

All the latest cultural news plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.

WHAT’S NEW? (in town)

text Angel Trinidad

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1 MOCO MUSEUMAmsterdam’s newest museum, the Modern Contemporary (Moco) Museum, presents the 'rock stars of art' smack in the middle of Museum-plein. Moco exhibits proven pioneers in modern and contemporary art, starting with Banksy and Warhol.Warhol: Royal Until 3 JulyBanksy: Laugh Now Until 4 SeptMoco Museum mocomuseum.com

2 OPEN GARDENDAYSA wonderful opportunity to discover Amsterdam’s pri-vate gardens, stroll along the city’s green oases and remarkable garden houses. Peek inside the luxurious canal houses, enjoy some fine art and pretend to be a nobleman for the weekend. 17-19 JuneVarious locationsopengardendays.nl 3 FABCITY CAMPUSThis self-suffi cient and hy-per-connected look at the city foretells our future way of living. The green campus will present about 50 pavilions, installations and prototypes.Until 26 JuneKop van Java-eiland europebypeople.nl

4 EASY VIRTUE ATVAN GOGH MUSEUMDiscover the world of prostitution through the eyes of Vincent Van Gogh and many other well-known 19th-century artists, inclu-ding Edgar Degas, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and Pablo Picasso. Until 19 JuneVan Gogh Museum vangoghmuseum.nl

5 AMSTERDAMSCHOOL AT STEDELIJKIn celebration of 100 years of the Amsterdam School architecture and design movement, the Stedelijk museum’s exhibition ’Living in the Amsterdam School' showcases its stunning furni-ture collection from the era.Until 28 AugustStedelijk Museum stedelijk.nl

‘IT WAS AWFUL AND WONDERFUL.’BREAKING BAD STAR BRYAN CRANSTONRECALLS A FORMATIVE EXPERIENCE INAMSTERDAM’S RED LIGHT DISTRICT

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If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibi-tions, museums, music and more!

TOP 5 to do >

THE AMSTERDAM

An interactive experience with archaeological fi nds from the intriguing Dutch East India Company ship The Amsterdam (1749) brings stories about the European trade network during this period of history to life. There are objects originating from all over Europe and historical documents reveal-ing the names and addresses of the Amsterdam merchants who supplied these items to the Company. Poortgebouw Marineterrein, Gebouw F, Kattenburgerstraat 5 (Voorwerf)amsterdamdok.com

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‘AMSTERDAM. EMOTIONAL CHOCOLATE. #RIDERWATCH.’ BASSIST MAT OSMAN DISCOVERS AMSTERDAM-BORN BRAND TONY’SCHOCOLONELY ON SUEDE’S RECENT TOUR

HOLLAND FESTIVAL

The Holland Festival is the leading international performing-arts festival in the Netherlands since 1947, offering an exciting mix of performances from all corners of the world. In line with the EU Presidency, international artists present a series of per-formances focusing on current European issues. The festival’s opening performance by Estonian directors Ene-Liis Semper and Tiit Ojasoo, Die Stunde da wir nichts voneinander wußten, shows the diversity and tensions of modern Europe, while the fi lm Ash and Money focuses on the phenomenon of political populism. 4-26 Junehollandfestival.nl

REDERIJ LAMPEDUSA

Rederij Lampedusa has been sailing two refugee boats in Dutch waters since summer 2015. These boats were given to them by the Italian authorities, and now serve as a striking reminder of the refugee situation. A joyful yet poignant look at sailing – for fun and for survival. MediamaticDijksgracht 6rederijlampedusa.nl

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FORUM ON EUROPEANCULTURE

What are the cultural values that unite us? How can art and culture offer creative solutions to problems that seem to be splitting us apart? This biannual forum explores the strength, impact and value of art and culture in Europe. This year’s edition, entitled “Re:Creating Europe”, is curated by Yoeri Albrecht (De Balie) and Cees de Graaff (DutchCulture), with contributions by architect Rem Koolhaas (the Netherlands), fi lm director Céline Sciamma (France), theatre director Johan Simons (the Netherlands), historian Philipp Blom (Germany) and political scientist Chantal Mouffe (Belgium), among many others. 1-3 JuneDe Balie (and other locations)Kleine-Gartmanplantsoen 10 cultureforum.eu

EU PRESIDENCY8 MINI marineterrein area

Marineterrein and surroundingstext Angel Trinidad map Gemma Pauwels/SaltyStock

HET SCHEEPVAART MUSEUM The National Maritime Museum presents a series of small exhibitions exploring various elements of maritime life. Moored outside is The Amsterdam, an exact replica of a famous Dutch East India Company ship. Closed during onsite meetingshetscheepvaartmuseum.nl

FABCITY CAMPUS FabCity functions as a living lab for alternative design, development and production – fi nding ecological and innovative solutions for cities and everyday life. Participants create new social, economical and logistical services, products and systems in this temporary, self-sustaining city.europebypeople.nl/fabcity-2/

PENSION HOMELAND AND EU VISITORS’CENTRE The former offi cers’ quarters has a beautiful living room, billiards room and restaurant that is open to the public. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner in the stunning mid-20th-century-designed restaurant. Plus, they serve specialty beer, made at Home-land’s own brewery. The newly opened Visitors’ Centre for the Dutch EU Presidency, also at Pension Homeland, showcases the history and operation of the EU via photography and video exhibits and interactive applications. pensionhomeland.com

AMSTERDAM LIBRARY The top fl oor of the multilevel public library houses the charming La Place, a restaurant and cafe with fantastic views of the city. oba.nl

CAFE ORLOFF A cosy cafe and bar located at Kadijksplein 11 – really close to the Maritime Museum and Europe building – serving delicious coffee and snacks. facebook.com/CafeOrloffAmsterdam

MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN `T IJ & BIMHUIS Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ is Holland’s most important concert hall for contemporary and

classical music (with a twist). The main auditorium has wonderful acoustics fi t for intimate chamber music as well as large orchestras. The Bimhuis is housed in a striking black box, part of the Muziekgebouw complex, and a veteran venue for jazz and improvisational music concerts.muziekgebouw.nl & bimhuis.com

LLOYD HOTEL AND CULTURAL EMBASSY With interiors designed by Dutch architects MDRDV and internationally renowned Dutch designers Richard Hutten, Claudy Jongstra and Joep Van Lieshout, Lloyd Hotel offers unique rooms ranging from 1 to 5 stars. Set in a beautiful 1920s building, this hip hotel and cultural embassy offers an airy cafe/restaurant with a bar and terrace, plus an art library and regular cultural events. lloydhotel.com

NEMO A science center and museum housed in an imposing Renzo Piano building, the museum presents fi ve fl oors of fun hands-on science exhibitions. Don’t forget to spend some time on the fi fth fl oor, with its wide open space offering amazing views of the city! e-nemo.nl

ARTIS ZOO & MICROPIA Natura Artis Magistra is the oldest zoo in the Netherlands and one of the oldest in mainland Europe. Admire tropical fi sh in the aquarium, travel through time at the planetarium or get up close and personal with the free-roaming lemurs. Also located in the complex is Micropia, the world’s fi rst museum dedicated to microbes and microorga-nisms. artis.nl, micropia.nl

BROUWERIJ 'T IJ Located in an old bathhouse, and right next to the ultimate landmark – a huge windmill! – Brouwerij 't IJ is the best-known brewery in Amsterdam. Offering high-quality beers since 1985, the bar is open every day of the year (including holidays), and offers tours on weekends. brouwerijhetij.nl

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CAFE RESTAURANT DE PLANTAGE The stunning Plantage restaurant, just next to the zoo, is housed in a breathtaking 19th-century converted conservatory, which was a former meeting facility for the members of the Artis Zoo. And of course, the dishes are impressive, too. caferestaurantdeplantage.nl

RESTAURANT FIFTEEN Top chef Jamie Oliver’s industrial-style restaurant offers delicious Modern European food, served and prepared by disadvantaged youngsters, trained by Oliver. fifteen.nl

HANNEKES BOOM This shack-style, waterfront cafe is a cosy and alterna-tive place to enjoy drinks and listen to live music. Hang back, relax and watch the boats through the Oosterdok waters. hannekesboom.nl

EU PRESIDENCYMINI on stage

‘Europe by People’ is the official arts and culture programme of the EU Presidency 2016, commissioned by the Dutch Ministry of Foreign Affairs. One of its projects is ‘On Stage’, an exciting programme of performances, projects and exhibitions with a (new) European focus.

‘On Stage’ is a dazzling programme of theme-based performances, projects and exhibitions on several stages throughout the city. Through poetic words, images, dance and music, contemporary and future views of Europe come alive in inspiring and thought-provoking performances, reaching a peak in May and June. We highlight the events we're most looking forward to:

8-12 May The Europe Now international theatre festival brings fi ve European capital cities together to tell the stories of the ‘new Europe’, refl ecting on its changing demography and polycultural reality. 20 May Theatre-maker Lucas De Man embarked on a meaningful journey trying to 'fi nd' Europe. He traveled to seven different coun-tries and interviewed creators and

experts on the contemporaries of Hieronymus Bosch.

2-5 June 'Nobody Home' is a touching, humorous and critical portrait of a young generation of theatre makers from Iran, Syria and Bosnia who fl ed to the stage in search of a home.

4 June 'Majnun & Leyla' is an enthralling, world-famous love story in which longing drives the protagonist insane. The story is known and loved from New Delhi to Rabat and has inspired thousands of writers, musicians and artists through the centuries. World Opera Lab created a new interpretation, performed in the open air by artists and musicians from different backgrounds, showcasing a dazzling mix of Turkish traditional music, European baroque opera and mystic Arabic and Andalusian songs.

For the complete programme: europebypeople.nl/on-stage

EUROPE BY PEOPLEOn Stage

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Q&AFrans de Vries is the director of cultural events agency De Vries Producties and is the steward of ‘Europe by People: On Stage’. What can we expect from this programme, and what inspires him? WHAT IS THE MAIN MESSAGE OF ‘ON STAGE’?European society is changing rapidly. To many artists and thinkers, this time of transition we are living in is an important source of inspira-tion. ‘Europe by People: On Stage’ will present a selection of artists, dancers, designers, theatre writers, choreographers and curators who actively respond to current social issues in their work. Explicitly or implicitly, they present their vision of Europe in their performances, projects and exhibitions. They give us a better understanding of Europe as well as new insights into the role of art in defining the European identity. ‘On Stage’ lets us discover how the new generation of artists deal with social issues such as migration, priva-cy, sustainability, urban development, social innovation and international conflicts. CAN YOU TELL US MORE ABOUT THE PROGRAMMES?‘On Stage’ has been set up as a multi-tiered programme. There are performances, projects, exhibitions and debates in Amsterdam as well as further afield. The programme inclu-des performances and projects that have emerged from the bootcamp as

well as programmes proposed by external arts organisations, selected because of their connection with the themes explored by Europe by People. Some of these projects and programmes will receive financial backing from Europe by People, others will receive support in terms of complementary programming. WHAT INSPIRES YOU ABOUT EUROPE? Europe has an infinite set of languages, colours, sounds, religions, art, rituals and habits, but for the average person from Asia, for example, we are all the same. The shared feeling for European history and art forms touches me deeply, but mostly I get inspired by young European makers and creatives who co-create, giving a whole new meaning to ‘Europe’.

HOW DOES THE PERFORMING ARTS AFFECT TODAY’S SOCIETY?The arts, especially performing arts, take you into a world of imagination and are able to give a broader view of the 'reality' around you. They require you to recreate this reality. For the full programme, please check:

europebypeople.nl

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EU PRESIDENCY12 MINI amsterdam school

100 years of Amsterdam School text Catalina Iorga

� e Amsterdam School of architecture and design celebrates its 100th birthday with a major exhibition at the Stedelijk Museum.

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Sixteen years ago, on a rare sunny day, Alice Roegholt, Director of Museum Het Schip (The Ship), was cycling

through the Spaarndammerbuurt when she suddenly came across a massive ship-shaped building, its unusually wavy red bricks perfectly framed by clear blue skies. One side of the building harboured a post-office sign, and Roegholt immediately went in. ‘It was the most unexpected room; my jaw dropped,’ she recalls. She had been exploring the city to find a location for a bottom-up initiative, a small museum dedicated to illuminating the bond between the architectural style called Amsterdam School and beautiful social housing for the city’s working-class residents. Luckily, the Dutch post office had already decided to abandon this location masterminded by Michel de Klerk, the Amsterdam School’s most prominent architect and creator of ‘working-class palaces’, as Roegholt likes to put it. The room could thus be restored to its full 1920s glory, and in 2001, marking the centenary of the 1901 Dutch Housing Act (that had enabled better housing conditions and affordable prices for poorer citizens), the old post office reopened as Museum Het Schip.

ART WITH A SOCIAL MISSION Aesthetically, Roegholt describes the Amsterdam School as ‘an expressionist style full of humour and small details just waiting to be discovered’. And socially aware to boot. ‘Back then, the Socialist city authorities were looking to craft a better way of living for workers, who should also see art on a daily basis, not just factories. These architects were going all-out to help solve a pressing societal problem,’ she explains. It wasn’t just buildings that De Klerk and his contemporaries were responsible for, but a complete artistic

experience also comprised of furniture and decorative objects. ‘You can think of Amsterdam School furniture as miniature buildings, and the buildings as scaled-up furniture, as both these types of structures contain similar elements,’ Roegholt adds. Unlike Art Deco, a style recognisable the world over, Amsterdam School objects are deeply rooted in the culture of their time and have a stronger sense of place, reflecting Amsterdam’s multicultural society by featuring motifs ranging from Indonesian through Japanese to Swedish.

100TH ANNIVERSARY EXHIBITION You can admire such furniture at the 'Living in the Amsterdam School' exhibition, which will be on display until August in the Stedelijk Museum. The show features more than 300 dressers, cabinets, lampshades, ceramics, clocks and everything in between from architects and designers such as De Klerk and Piet Kramer, Amsterdam School’s figurehead after De Klerk passed away. To Roegholt, these objects best embody the principle of ‘colour by form, with clever light and shadow effects that reveal new shades without the need to use paint’. And thanks to the research efforts of the Stedelijk Museum, which scoured both its own collection and those of enthusiastic amateurs for the most exciting pieces, the innovative Amsterdam School design may finally get the international exposure it deserves.

LIVING IN THE AMSTERDAM SCHOOLUntil 28 August Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl

MUSEUM HET SCHIP Spaarndammerplantsoen 140 www.hetschip.nl

‘AMSTERDAM SCHOOL OBJECTS ARE DEEPLY ROOTED IN THE CULTURE OF THEIR TIME AND HAVE A STRONG SENSE OF PLACE, REFLECTING AMSTERDAM’S MULTICULTURAL SOCIETY’

EU PRESIDENCY14 MINI eu in the classroom

BRINGING EUROPE CLOSEROne of projects of the city of Amsterdam during the Dutch Presidency is the ‘EU in the Classroom’ project, which aims to bring the EU closer to young people. By inviting EU offi cials to speak and give a guest lesson in secondary schools, the school project will literally put a face to the European Union, making it come alive for students and fostering a construc-tive dialogue.

The city invites professionals of the European Institutions who will be coming to Amsterdam to take an extra hour or two to visit a school and meet the young students of the city. More than 20 schools in Amsterdam and neighbouring municipalities are look-ing forward to welcoming EU offi cials as guest speakers to share and discuss their experience with the EU.

In partnership with the University of Amsterdam and the organisation of Amsterdam secondary schools, the municipality aims to match school teachers with EU offi cials accord-ing to their interests, specialties and language requests.

During the programme, each EU offi -cial is assisted by a third-year European Studies student from the University of Amsterdam. These students have put together a special ‘EU in the Class-room’ lesson programme and developed lesson materials with school teachers on various EU themes such as security, the market, European multilingualism and the origin and function of the euro. The students act as ambassadors between the schools and the EU offi cials as they develop the themes under the supervision of the teachers.amsterdam.nl/schoolproject

EU IN THE CLASSROOMtext Angel Trinidad

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Do you wish to take part of the programme as a guest lecturer?

To learn more about the EU in the Classroom programme, visit:amsterdam.nl/schoolproject

WHAT IS YOUR ROLE IN THE'EU IN THE CLASSROOM'PROJECT?I am a mentor and teacher of 4th-year students (VWO) at Open Schoolgemeenschap Bijlmer (OSB). I wanted to teach my students something more about the Europe-an Union. Therefore, I was very happy to join the project.

DID YOU, AS A TEACHER,LEARN SOMETHINGNEW?I realised again how important it is to sometimes leave the classroom with the students to visit new places and meet interesting people. It’s also true the other way around; by inviting interesting people to our school, the students feel respected. It is a nice experience for the visitor as well. The project inspired me to develop a related project concern-ing the politics of the European Union and the wave of refugees coming from the Middle East.

WHAT WAS THE MOSTINTERESTING THING THATHAPPENED DURING THELECTURES?If I remember well, the lecturer asked all the students who have at least one parent or grandparent born outside of the Netherlands to stand up. An amazing amount of people got up – I would say the vast

majority. It shows how diverse and multicultural the population of Amsterdam has become.

DO YOU THINK THELESSONS MADE AN IMPACTON THE STUDENTS?In my opinion, the European Union is quite abstract to young people, even though some things are taken for granted – like the euro and open borders within the EU – because the newer generation has almost no memory of paying in the national currencies or of being stopped at the border within the EU. The institutions of the European Union are very complex and not many students would know anyone working there. It's the complexity and the distance that makes the EU abstract. It can be made less abstract by teaching young people not about the EU in general, but about practical themes that occupy the headlines of the newspapers, like the economic crisis and the refugees.

Q&AWe asked Joost Ploeger, teacher of economics at Open Schoolgemeen-schap Bijlmer (OSB), about his thoughts on ‘EU in the Classroom’:

'THE PROJECT INSPIRED ME TO DEVELOP

A RELATED PROJECT

CONCERNING THE POLITICS

OF THE EU AND THE WAVE OF

REFUGEES COMING FROM

THE MIDDLE EAST'

EU PRESIDENCY16 MINI 180 amsterdammers

A city of opennessAmsterdam celebrates its unique history of openness and diversity with the 180 Amsterdammers project. Russell Shorto looks back on the city’s special history of embracing di� erences – the key to Amsterdam’s success in the Golden Age. text Angel Trinidad

A BEWILDERING MIX

‘In 1580, Amsterdam had 30,000 inhabitants. Fifty years later there were close to 140,000, plus swarms of undocumented aliens, which a scholar recently estimated would have numbered in the hundreds of thousands, fl ooding into the city to work on the expansion or looking for places on VOC ships. And the inhabitants were a bewildering mix. At least a third were foreign born. Most immigrants were from Germany and Scandinavia, but one could have also seen and heard Africans, Turks, Inuits, Laplanders and others. The city was a cacophony of languages.’ *

Jumping ahead another 400 years, Amsterdam now counts exactly 180 nationalities according to the Bureau of Statistics. Brits, Germans, French, Italians, Ghanese and Americans are among the largest groups, as are Moroccans, Surinamese and Turks, but you will also fi nd Bolivians, Moldavians and Nepalese among the ranks of those who call Amsterdam home.

*From Amsterdam: a History of the World’s Most Liberal City by Russell Shorto.

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180 AMSTERDAMMERS

Amsterdam is a city with freedom in its heart. Whatever their origin, people here feel free: to be who they want to be, to write what they want to write, to say what they want to say. This freedom and tolerance has been part of the city’s DNA since the 17th century. This year, the city is celebrating this diversity by collecting 180 stories by 180 Amsterdam-mers. These Amsterdammers come from 180 different countries, and each having forged their own personal Amsterdam.

Each nationality is photographed and inter-viewed. Het Parool publishes one portrait every weekday; this is complemented by 180 stories through various video and written in-terviews. Later in 2016, there will be a large-scale campaign consisting of outdoor ads, social-media campaigns, an exhibition, a book and a dinner with all 180 Amsterdammers.

180 Amsterdam is an initiative of Amsterdam Marketing, AmsterdamFM, Bridgizz, Nieuw-wij, Story Supply, Het Parool, OBA, Amster-dam Museum and the City of Amsterdam. All 180 portraits are photographed by Michiel van Nieuwkerk.www.180amsterdammmers.nl

A history of diversitytext Russell Shorto

Amsterdam became the melting pot of Europe in the 1500s and 1600s, setting the template for modern urban life. Amsterdam circa 1584 was the goal for refugees: when Spain attacked the provinces of what is now Belgium, bankers and textile manufacturers, cartographers and spice dealers, Jews and Christians fl ed northward. In the midst of an intolerant world, Amsterdam, as it took in hordes from all over Europe and as far away as Africa and the Middle East, discovered that there was gold to be mined in the reverse concept. Tolerance of differences –not just on the part of the government, but in the eyes of ordinary citizens, neigh-bours and people on the street – meant connections to far-fl ung lands, business deals, access to new ideas. Amsterdam’s printers capitalised on the city’s reputation as an entrepôt for new ideas by announcing their availability to print texts on a wide variety of topics, virtually free of censorship. Soon the city became the world capital of publishing. Political and scientifi c tracts – both of which were banned in many other places for impugning ruling regimes – churned from the city’s presses. Galileo and Descartes had their works published by Dutch printers. And those works contained not only new ideas, but the seeds of new industries. You’re an enterprising business-man and you read about the wondrous possibilities of the telescope, or the micro-scope. What do you do? You open a factory that produces lenses, eyepieces, metal tubes, focusing knobs. The city’s surgeons held public anatomy lessons by dissecting the corpses of executed murderers, causing a fl urry of interest in the subject. The presses got to work producing exquisite full-colour texts showing the intricacies of the human body. A skipper from Norway or Iceland would pull into the IJ, Amsterdam’s harbour, in a vessel sporting an innovative hull design. The city’s shipyards would get to work. That is how Amsterdam became the cen-trepiece of the Golden Age, and, in time, the model that other cities strove to copy. ‘Diversity’– in the sense of a target num-ber of different nationalities – is not neces-sarily the point. Openness is the point.

EU PRESIDENCY18 MINI 5 questions

5 QUESTIONS

One of the cultural initiatives organised by the Dutch Chairmanship of the EU and the City Council of Amsterdam, the Rona Mathlener Projects share artistic and poetic visions of and hopes for Europe.

We posed five questions to cultural entrepreneur Rona Mathlener and discovered a treasure trove of inspiration.

1. PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR PROJECT.

Our project is called ‘In European Poetry, I Want to Live’ in which we invite 56 poets – 28 young emerging poets and 28 older ones – to refl ect on three of the European Union's big challenges: Europe and the Refugee, Europe and Democracy, and Europe and Peace. The poems will be spoken and displayed in both English and Dutch from 2 to 8 May on Amsterdam’s electronic billboards in the subway stations, Central Station and Schiphol, as well as on The Wall at the Marineterrein.

2. HOW AND WHY DID YOU COME UP WITHTHIS PROJECT?

As the European Union is currently stumbling from crisis to crisis, we asked ourselves whether Europe is more than just problems and issues... Can the European Union still inspire us as it did earlier generations? Is there a Europe beyond crisis? To us, poetry seemed the perfect artform to refl ect on these questions; not to provide straightforward answers, but to put these questions in a different perspective.

3. WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON EUROPE?

Although far from perfect, Europe is a political miracle. After centuries of war and confl ict, the European Union has provided Europeans 70 years of liberty, peace and prosperity. Quite a feat if you consider Europe's history.

4. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUTAMSTERDAM?

Amsterdam is a great city to live in if you love culture and if you’re working in the cultural sector. The large national and international cultural supply is of such a high quality that inspiration for new ideas and projects

is always within reach. Amsterdam is a true world city with a special cultural infrastructure. Because Amsterdam is, compared to other world cities, not large in terms of population and area, the various cultural disciplines can easily fi nd each other and create special collaborative projects found nowhere else in the world.

5. WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES IN THECITY, IN TERMS OF ART, DESIGN, CULTURE ANDLITERATURE?

We are proud to live in a city like Amsterdam, where we have such great cultural venues such as the Concertgebouw, and wonderful museums, like the Stedelijk Museum. We also love the buzzing art and music scenes, and often go to the Bimhuis and Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ.

ronamathlenerprojecten.nl

LIVING POETRY

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BACK THEN4 MAY 2015

Every year on 4 May, the Nether-lands commemorates the victims of war, and on 5 May, the country celebrates the fact that it was liberated. On 4 May 2015, King Willem-Alexander and Queen Máxima were present during the 70th national commemoration of Remembrance Day in Amsterdam. They laid the first wreath at the National Monument on the Dam Square that evening, just before the two minutes of silence at eight o'clock, observed in commemora-tion of all Dutch victims of war. WHO DO WE COMMEMORATE?People experienced the second world war in very different ways, depending on who they were, what they stood for, what they did or where they lived. All those different experiences are reflected in the different commemoration ceremonies throughout the years. During the national commemora-tion of Remembrance Day on 4 May, those various experiences come together and the dead are jointly remembered. Indeed, the memorandum that sets out who we commemorate on 4 May was deliberately formulated in general terms to ensure the inclusion of all the different (groups of) Dutch victims of war. Indeed, all those who remained behind experienced great personal grief for the loved ones they lost. 4en5mei.nl/english

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EU PRESIDENCY20 MINI what's on

WHAT’S ON EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMSMIGRANTS & THELLOYD FESTIVAL

The Lloyd Hotel & Cultural Embassy presents a beauti-ful exhibition on the migrant history of Amsterdam’s Eastern Docklands area, where the hotel itself is located. Between 1921 and 1935, the hotel served as an emigrant hotel for the shipping company Royal Dutch Lloyd. Thousands of Eastern Europeans emigrated via Lloyd Hotel to Brazil to work on coffee plantations. The project shows that migration has always been a part of human life and is thus related to the current (European) reality. The exhibition runs until 31 December.On 29 May, Relate Events, a group of students with a focus on cultural entrepre-neurship, presents the Lloyd Festival, exploring this history even further. Through art installations, tours, food events, lectures, music and storytelling, the festival will tell the stories of migrants then and now: the doubt before leaving, the fear of the journey, going into the unknown and the hope for a better future. Lloyd Hotel & Cultural EmbassyFestival 29 May, 2-9 pmExhibition until 31 Decemberlloydhotel.com

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BERLAGE, GODFATHER OF DUTCH DESIGN

Berlage could be considered the most important designer

in Dutch history. He not only designed the Beurs van Berlage in Amsterdam, but also the many exceptional objects and pieces of fur-niture inside the building. This exhibition showcases

authentic pieces of furniture from Berlage's hand while also looking at contempor-

ary Dutch Design.Beurs van Berlage, until

15 May

REMBRANDT’S NAKED TRUTH

Based on the latest research, 'Rembrandt’s Naked Truth' features 17th-century nude studies that have never be-fore been brought together in such large numbers. It will be the first time that

Rembrandt’s frank approach to drawing nudes will be examined in depth and

brought to the attention of a wide audience. Expect more

than 50 objects collected from around the world,

alongside pieces from the museum's own collection.

Rembrandt House Museum, until 16 May

BREITNER: GIRL IN KIMONO

Breitner created this much-loved series between 1893 and 1896, immortalising

young model Geesje Kwak through in his art. Here you can see the entire series of

14 paintings, including an unfinished

portrait and the largely un-known 'Girl in a Red Kimo-no', telling the story of how these works were created

through the many prepara-tory drawings, sketches and photographs that the artist

produced.Rijksmuseum, until 22

May

CLOSE-UP: A NEW GENERATION OF FILM AND VIDEO ARTISTS IN

THE NETHERLANDSAs the title suggests, this

exhibition is an opportunity for the EYE Filmmuseum to offer up space to recent film graduates and other fresh

talents. Presented as a group exhibition of film/video

works and installations, the exhibition offers a chance to discover a variety of inter-

esting artworks.EYE Film Museum, until

22 May

SPANISH MASTERS FROM THE HERMITAGE

Subtitled 'The World of El Greco, Ribera, Zurbarán,

Velázquez, Murillo & Goya', this grand exhibition of

Spanish art and artefacts includes more than 60 supe-rior paintings and a rich col-lection of graphic works and applied-arts masterpieces.

In addition to the grand masters, it features paint-

ings by their pupils and later painters, up to and includ-

ing Picasso.Hermitage Amsterdam,

until 29 May

WORLD PRESS PHOTOThe winning images from

the world's largest and most prestigious annual press

photography contest begin their world tour in Amster-dam each year, presenting a reflection of trends and

developments in photojour-nalism. This collection of

images not only presents the (at times gruesome) real-ity of events on the world

stage, but also the beauty of life, sports, art, science and

nature.De Nieuwe Kerk, until

10 Jul

MASTER OF LIGHT: ROBBY MÜLLER

Robby Müller, the most renowned cinematographer

from the Netherlands, makes his personal archive available to the public and gives intimate access to his life in self-shot videos. Be-sides moving images, there are Polaroid photos, letters

and notes that capture what it is like to work in the world

of cinema. EYE Film Museum,

4 Jun-28 Aug

AMY WINEHOUSE: A FAMILY PORTRAIT

Looking beyond the hype, this exhibition presents an

intimate portrayal of the life of songstress Amy Wine-

house, emphasising her pas-sion for music and fashion,

as well as the history of her Jewish family and her

school days. The Winehouse family has offered access to

many of Amy's personal be-longings for this collection,

while the accompanying stories by her brother Alex make the experience even

more personal.Jewish Historical Museum,

until 4 Sep

WORLD WAR II TODAY

The exhibition gives young generations a new way to

remember the second world war. World Press Photo-winning photographer

Roger Cremers captures the manner in which people

commemorate the war, 70 years after its end. Since 2008, Cremers has been

collecting images through-out Europe of re-enact-ments, group tourism to

former concentration camps and excavations of victims from the attack on Stalin-

grad. Verzetsmuseum, until

25 Sep

ARITA PORCELAINTODAY

The centuries-old tradition of porcelain manufactur-ing in the Japanese town

of Arita has entered a new era. Under the supervision

of the Dutch design duo Scholten & Baijings and the Japanese designer Teruhiro

Yanagihara, an elite group of international designers have produced a number of new ceramic creations that can be seen in this exhibition.

Rijksmuseum, until 31 Oct

CATHERINE THE GREATA collection of more than 300 paintings, sculptures

and personal objects of Catherine the Great make

their way from St. Petersburg to Amsterdam, inviting spectators into her world. This exhibition of-fers a unique glimpse into

the life of Europe’s longest-reigning empress. Many of

her possessions, such as jew-ellery, dresses and other fine artefacts, help to unravel her

decadent life. Hermitage Amsterdam, 18 Jun 2016-15 Jan 2017

For the complete listing: iamsterdam.com

Choice exhibition

HELMUT NEWTON: A RETROSPECTIVEAdmire the work of Helmut Newton (1920-2004), a legendary photographer best known for his collabora-tions with French Vogue and the fashion industry. The retrospective features more than 200 photographs ranging from his rare to well-known works, and is a testament to the complexity and multi-faceted nature of his craft. Newton’s oeuvre is considered by some to be one of the most iconic of the last quarter of the 20th century 17 June-4 Sep, Foam Photography Museum

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS

EU PRESIDENCY22 MINI what's on

DOEK FESTIVALdOeK is an Amsterdam-

based collective of renowned jazz musicians with a par-

ticular penchant for improvi-sation. And because improvi-sation is best done together, they regularly get together to perform – most importantly at the annual dOeK Festival centred on the Bimhuis, plus independent venues like Zaal

100 and De Ruimte.29 Apr-4 May, various

locations, doek.org

ROLLING KITCHENSDuring the long holiday

weekend, hordes of mobile kitchens descend upon the park at the Westergasfab-riek to create an enormous

open-air restaurant. Food to suit every appetite is on the menu, with everything from fresh Italian pizza to sophis-ticated seafood dishes. Hunt

around for your favourite dish(es), pick up your order and relax in the sunshine (or later in the evening, under the stars) as you enjoy your

food.12-16 May, Westergas-

fabriek, rollendekeukens.amsterdam

YUMMYA AMSTERDAMNormally reserved for ice

skaters, Amsterdam's premi-um ice rink is turning over its grounds to a wide variety of food trucks offering culinary

delights from crêpes and wraps to Moroccan bastillas. The festival is organised by

themes alluding to paradise, including 'Garden of Eden'

and 'Adam and Eve'.5-8 May,

Jaap EdenIJsbaan, yummya.nl

OPEN ATELIERS IN THEJORDAAN

Every spring, some 60 art-ists working in the Jordaan

neighbourhood invite visitors to take a peek behind the

scenes as they throw open the doors to their studios. Meet

the artists and view their work, ranging from paintings and sculptures to jewellery,

photographs and mixed media.

14-16 May, variouslocations, openateliers-

jordaan.nl

PARK AM SEEBerlin-based club Watergate, Amsterdam electro event col-lective Chasing the Hihat and music magazine Deep House Amsterdam present an enor-mous dance music festival in a serene setting. DJ stars in-clude Tom Trago, Prosumer and Jeremy Underground.21 May, De Oeverlanden,

parkamsee.com

DIYNAMIC FESTIVALThe Hamburg-based record label Diynamic heads west to pack the park south of Amsterdam full of pulse-

pounding dance beats. The line-up includes Solomun, Adriatique and Kollektiv

Turmstrasse.27 May, Amsterdamse Bos,

diynamic-festival.com

909 FESTIVALThe 909 Festival is all about sun and beats, promising a full day of the world’s best

techno in this forested park in Amstelveen, at the south-ern end of the capital. DJs

Jeff Mills and Speedy J head-line in 2016.

28 May, Amsterdamse Bos, 909.nl

KUNSTRAI 2015The longest-running art fair in the Netherlands offers art

lovers the chance to get their hands on the latest and

greatest in the scene. Along-side the regular gallery-

centred stands, booths are devoted to individual artists,

allowing visitors to delve deeper into their work.

Amsterdam RAI, Wed 1-Sun 5 Jun, various times,

kunstrai.nl

TASTE OF AMSTERDAMFour days of summer eating, drinking and entertainment as top chefs from the city's leading restaurants present

special menus of starter-sized dishes in an unbeatable al

fresco gourmet feast. While eating is a fi ne way to pass

the time, don’t forget to drop in on a live cook-off (guests

judge the winner), lecture or wine tasting between dishes. And there's a farmers' market

so that you can take plenty home, too.

Amstelpark, Thur 2-Sun 5 Jun, various times, €12tasteofamsterdam.com

HOLLAND FESTIVALThis leading international performance-arts festival provides Dutch and inter-

national theatregoers with a survey of the best and most

widely acclaimed perfor-mance pieces from around the world – plus a bunch of

world premieres. The festival offers a heady mix of theatre,

music, dance, opera, fi lm and visual arts, as well as

Western and non-Western performance pieces in a vari-ety of languages. Highlights

from the festival can be found throughout our A-list.

Various locations, 4-26 Jun, various times & prices

hollandfestival.nl

LIVE AT AMSTERDAMSEBOS

As well as its sport and rec-reation facilities, the dazzling nature of the Amsterdamse

Bos is home to a picturesque open-air theatre that reopens for the summer season. Be-sides theatrical performanc-es, look out for the diverse singer-songwriter and pop acts popping up there over

the coming months. In June, it’s Candi Staton (7 June) and Maaike Ouboter

(12 June).Amsterdamse Bos, from

Sun 5 Jun, various times & prices

liveatamsterdamsebos.nl

THE BACCHUS WINEFESTIVAL

A festival in honour of the Roman god of wine! The

Bacchus Wijnfestival is set to present more than 250

wines from all corners of the world, in combination with plenty of mobile catering,

DJs and live music. The 2016 edition takes place over two

weekends.10-12, 17-19 Jun,

Amsterdamse Bos,bacchuswijnfestival.nl

ITS FESTIVALThe International Theatre School Festival brings the

best new theatrical talent to stages at theatres across Am-sterdam every year, giving the latest batch of home-grown

and international theatre graduates a chance to show-case their talents in front of a wide audience of theatre

fans, casting agencies, artistic directors and the press.

22-30 Jun, various locations,

itsfestivalamsterdam.com

For the complete listing: iamsterdam.com

Choice event

SPRINGSNOW FESTIVALEvery year, Amsterdam’s elm trees scatter a blanket of blossoms over the city’s streets – a phenomenon that has come to be known as ‘spring snow’. This celebration of spring includes a walking route past the city’s elm highlights, exhibitions and side programmes.Until 21 May, various locations, springsnow.nl

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

23

ANDREW BIRDAndrew Bird never settles. The multi-instrumentalist

keeps busy both in the studio, with records

regularly dropping, and on stage, where he can be found

switching instruments, looping sounds and

constructing great walls of baroque pop and indie rock.

Fri 6 May, Paradiso, 20:00, €25

NETHERLANDS PHILHAR-MONIC ORCHESTRA –

FINAL FANTASYGaming culture hits the

concert halls as the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra performs tunes

from Final Fantasy, composed by Nobuo

Uematsu and Jonne Val-tonen, in orchestral arrange-

ments. Game soundtracks have come a long way since

the 8-bit Tetris theme. Sat 7 May, Concertgebouw,

20:15, €20-€34

GREAT LAKE SWIMMERSBefitting their pleasantly twee name, Great Lake

Swimmers are Canadian folk rockers with lush inter-play between guitars, violins

and soft vocals by singer-songwriter Tony Dekker. In the vein of Neil Young

and Nick Drake, their song titles include 'A Jukebox in a Desert of Snow', 'Something Like A Storm' and 'Ballad of a Fisherman’s Wife'. You get

the idea. Sat 7 May, Sugar Factory,

20:00, €15

BASIA BULATBasia Bulat is a Canadian

folk singer with a penchant for the autoharp, as well as

the piano and guitar. Basia’s strong yet warbling voice

filled the Theatre Carre last year when she supported Sufjan Stevens. This year she comes to the Paradiso with a brand new album,

Good Advice. Sun 8 May, Paradiso,

20:00, €13

ROD STEWARTRock and soul legend Rod Stewart will bring all his

classic hits as well as his new record, Another Country,

his 29th studio album, not to mention plenty of

hair gel, to the Ziggo Dome. Ladies, don’t forget your

spare undies to throw. Sat 14 May, Ziggo Dome,

€60

SUUNSMontreal art rockers Suuns

make effect-laden indie that's alternately

crackling and jagged, light and atmospheric and

drenched in distortion. Last year they teamed with the

Canadian-Lebanese project Jerusalem in My Heart and

this year released third album 'Hold/Still'.

Fri 20 May, Melkweg, 19:30, €15

BRYAN ADAMSBryan Adams shows no

signs of slowing down. The Canadian tours Europe to

promote his 2015 album Get Up!, which leans

heavily on upbeat old-timey rock 'n' roll and follows just a year after previous effort,

Tracks of My Years, a record of covers.

Tues 24 May, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €39

THE HOUSE OF LOVEComing out of the

indie-shoegaze scene of 1980s London and inspired

by Jesus & Mary Chain, House of Love recorded four albums before their break-

up in 1993. They reunited 10 years later, putting out Days

Run Away in 2005 and, more recently, She Paints

Words in Red in 2013. Thurs 26 May, Paradiso,

20:30, €20

LONDON CALLING <SUMMER SPECIAL>

The summer edition of this mini music festival has wid-ened its coverage with four acts from Australia. Royal

Headache is reminiscent of Aussie pub punk. Methyl Ethel makes psych-rock

comparable to Tame Impala, while Slum Sociable mixes lo-fi indie and soulful RnB.

Finally, Ben Forbes, aka Banff, creates spacious gui-

tar pop.Sat 28 May, Paradiso,

18:00, €20

NELLYGo and take a ride ‘wit’ Nelly

at the Melkweg. Blending hip hop and pop perfect for the club dancefloor, Nelly has been making it ‘Hot in Herre’ since the turn of the

century. When he’s not singing, or getting caught

with drugs and guns on his tour bus, he’s starring in his

own reality TV show, Nellyville.

Thur 2 June, Melkweg, 19:30, €32

For the complete listing: iamsterdam.com

Choice music

NDT IN AMSTERDAMThe prestigious Nederlands Dans Theater comes to Amsterdam for a series of performances titled ‘Separa-te Ways’ – an exciting programme consisting entirely of new pieces by Hofesh Shechter plus Sol León and Paul Lightfoot. The British-Israeli Shechter is regarded as one of Britain's most acclaimed choreographers. León and Lightfoot have been a creative duo since 1989 and are NDT’s in-house choreographers since 2002. 11-14 May, National Opera & Ballet, ndt.nl

MUSIC & STAGE

PORCHESSlacker pop from New York, Porches is Aaron Maine and band. His first record, 2013’s Slow Dance in the Cosmos was scuzzy, lackadaisical indie. Howe-ver, this year’s Pool has a cleaner sound with synths to the fore – a new addition to Maine’s DIY studio, it seems.Tues 17 May, De School Amsterdam, 20:00, €12

RIHANNAOne of the biggest names in the pop world today, the Barba-dian mixes RnB, pop and dancehall across all her records. She returns to theNetherlands to promote new album Anti, featuring sweaty, Patwa-tinged single 'Work'. Fri 17 June, Amsterdam Arena, 19:00, €39

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EU PRESIDENCY24 MINI

design paradise

X BANK

Located in a former Art Deco bank, just a few steps away from the Dam Square, X Bank is a 700 m2 hybrid store fi l-led to the brink with today’s most inspiring Dutch fashion, art and design. This ‘bank of wonders’ presents a compre-hensive collection of works by over 180 premium, upco-ming and infl uential Dutch designers, including Avelon, Bas Kosters, Driessens & Van der Baar, Droog, Schuller De Waal and many others. With prices ranging from 8 euros (a tin of Dutch apple syrup) to 80,000 euros (a pistol artwork by Ted Noten), every small and big treasure can be found here: from jewellery, men’s suits and bags to design ob-jects, magazines and artwork. The product curation is me-ticulously executed with the concept of collaboration in mind. You can easily get in touch with the designers – who often live closeby – should you wish to know more about the designs or want a custom-made outfi t. Downstairs is X Bank Art, a contemporary art gallery featuring exhibitions small and large. Spend hours wandering and discovering your next favourite brands in this eclectic design paradise. Spuistraat 172xbank.amsterdam

pretty things

Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card.

PRETTY THINGS

ta ke-awa y a m s te rda m

THE NEW I AMSTERDAMSTORE IN CENTRAL STATIONThose craving local treats with a con-science should look no further than the brand new I amsterdam store, housed under the mirrored roof of Central Station’s shiny IJ hall. A sprawling 300 m2 affair, the shop wants locals to feel proud of the city’s vibrant cultural scene and innovative artisans.Among the socially minded products are chocolate bars from Tony’s Choc-olonely; organic brews from the city’s original microbrewery, Brouwerij ’t IJ; and natural, paraben-free skincare goodies made by Marie-Stella-Maris, a social enterprise keen on making clean drinking water the global norm.One of the store’s highlights is a wall showcasing 27 home-grown products and brands.The store also offers per-sonalised advice for your trip: ask one of the enthusiastic insiders, who will be walking around the store, ready to tell you where the city’s finest coffee or most cutting-edge exhibitions are to be found. Central Station IJ Halliamsterdam.com

text Angel Trinidad & Catalina Iorga

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TRIP AROUND EUROPECosmopolitan shopping & dining in Amsterdamtext Angel Trinidad

Italy SPAGHETTERIAThis beautiful spaghetti bar offers fresh, homemade pasta made accor-ding to ancient Italian traditions. The menu consists of three permanent classics and three other traditional dishes, which change on a daily basis – all made from organic fl our from Emilia Romagna.Jan Hanzenstraat 32 spaghetteria-pastabar.nl

SpainPUERTO PATA NEGRAKnown for their delectable tapas, Pata Negra offers authentic Spanish cuisine made with fresh ingredients from Spain. Grab a pitcher of sangria and enjoy the restaurant’s mouthwatering pata-tas bravas, chorizo and paella. Oostelijke Handelskade 999 pata-negra.nl

FrancePETIT GÂTEAUPetit Gâteau is a delightful French pastry shop located in the lively Haarlemmerstraat. Enjoy their heavenly selection of miniminis (6 cm cakes in different fl avours), macarons, madeleines, quiches and eclairs. Ooh la la!Haarlemmerstraat 80 petitgateau.nl

FinlandA PIECE OF FINLANDThis beautiful concept store offers food, objects, clothing and travel accessories by Finnish designers. There is also a coffee corner where visitors can relax and enjoy pastries and delicious coffee from a Finnish roastery. Haarlemmerdijk 66 apieceoffi nland.nl

AustriaKLEIN TIROLA hidden gem in the busy Leidseplein area, this cosy restaurant serves juicy schnitzels, warm apfelstrudel and cold beers. The wood-panelled walls and decor reminiscent of ski chalets will take you back to the Austrian Alps.Leidsekruisstraat 19 kleintirol.com

BelgiumVLAAMS FRITESHUIS VLEMINCKX A long line snaking down the street can always be seen beside this small friet stand. Vleminckx sells delicious homemade Belgian fries and 25 diffe-rent types of sauces, and was voted 2nd-best snack corner in Holland by a Dutch newspaper. The best things in life are worth waiting for, as they say.Voetboogstraat 31-33 vleminckxdesausmeester.nl

AmsterdamLOCAL GOODS STOREWith every purchase at this beautiful concept store, you are funding the work of local Dutch designers, cre-ators and brands. The Local Goods store, located in the beautiful De Hallen, presents innovative and origi-nal products: books, T-shirts, art, jewellery, food and accessories, all made by local creatives.Hannie Dankbaarpassage 39 localgoodsstore.nl

GermanyCAFE BRECHTThis cosy Berlin-style living-room cafe is decorated with vintage mismatched sofas, chairs and lamp-shades, making for a relaxed and unpretentious hangout. Serving German beers, soft drinks and light bites, it is the perfect spot for an after-work drink.Weteringschans 157 cafebrecht.nl

DenmarkBOLIADanish furniture and lifestyle chain Bolia has recently opened its doors in Amsterdam. Discover an idyllic world of cosy, personal and innovative 'New Scandinavian Design' with their beautiful handmade furniture in minimal styles, luscious colours and inviting textiles. Utrechtsestraat 78 bolia.com

PortugalGIRASSOLThis small family restaurant is the old-est Portuguese restaurant in the Neth-erlands. Simple, friendly, and laid-back, Girassol serves delectable Portuguese dishes and organises melancholic fado evenings from time to time. Their ter-race – one of the most beautiful in Am-sterdam, facing the Amstel river – is now open for the summer.Weesperzijde 135 girassol.nl

VLAAMS FRITESHUIS VLEMINCKX

GermanyGermanyCAFE BRECHTGermanyCAFE BRECHTGermany

This beautiful spaghetti bar offers fresh, homemade pasta made accor-ding to ancient Italian traditions. The

LOCAL GOODS STORE

Denmark

A PIECE OF FINLANDThis beautiful concept store offers food,

Portugal

This small family restaurant is the old-

A hidden gem in the busy Leidseplein area,

EU PRESIDENCY26 MINI eating out

EATING OUTtext Angel Trinidad

Our top dining options, from sweet sensations to sky-high locations.

The Marineterrein has existed for 350 years, originally a huge shipyard, which closed its gates in 1915. In addition to

the historical buildings, including the lovely Gate House (now classifi ed a national monu-ment), new accommodations were constructed in the 1960s for marine offi cers during their Amsterdam stay. Pension Homeland, a hotel-restaurant that opened its doors last summer, is housed in the building that welcomed the of-fi cers. The common longroom, where the ma-rines used to relax, play billiards or throw swanky parties in their white uniforms, has been transformed into the hotel’s restaurant, which is open from breakfast to dinner and serves polished European fare such as Dutch oysters, deer Wellington and Mandarin trifl e. What’s really worth the detour is the authentic 1960s decor, from the pop artwork hanging on the wood-panelled walls to the colourful furni-ture. Kattenburgerstraat 5 pensionhomeland.nl

mid-century marvelPENSION HOMELAND

The stunning Plantage restaurant, just next to the Artis zoo, is housed in a breathtaking 19th-centu-ry converted conservatory. It was a former mee-ting facility for the members of the zoo. With its gorgeous steel and glass walls, romantic lighting and airy atmosphere, it is defi nitely one of the most beautiful restaurants in the city. Plantage Kerklaan 36caferestaurantdeplantage.nl

lush diningDE PLANTAGE

The newly renovated restaurant on the 5th fl oor of the marvelous NEMO museum is now open. DAK uses sustainable technology, one of the mu-seum architect’s original ideas fi nally coming to full fruition. Visitors can enjoy light snacks and lunch, from homemade lemonade to tasty sandwi-ches. During the summer, the restaurant and the rooftop square stay open later – perfect for sun-bathing and enjoying the long summer days.Oosterdok 2e-NEMO.nl

panoramic viewsDAK RESTAURANT

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IJSCUYPJEspeculaas ice creamThis chain of ice-cream shops offer the best homemade ice cream in the city in the most special fl avours. Our tip: the speculaas ice cream, made out of the traditional Dutch spiced cookie.Eerste van Helststraat 27Prinsengracht 292, and more

WINKEL 43 apple pieWinkel 43’s generous portions of crunchy baked apple pie are served with dollops of delicious whipped cream and heralded as the best appletaart in the city. Just go.Noordermarkt 43

DE LAATSTE KRUIMELcourgette cake‘The Last Crumb’ serves heavenly cakes, tarts, pies and cookies, all showcased beautifully in its whimsical window display. The homemade lemon poppyseed scone and the courgette cake are crowd favourites. Langebrugsteeg 4

PATISSERIE HOLTKAMPchampagne cakeThis beloved Amsterdam institution has been around since 1886, offering the best classical cakes in town. Local favourites

include fl avoured chocolates and the lemon meringue cake. Don’t miss out on the champagne cake; it tastes as lovely as it sounds.Vijzelgracht 15

NOORDERMARKTpoffertjesPoffertjes are like mini pancakes, but fl uffi er and puffi er. The most delicious and buttery ones are made fresh and sold on the streets. Check the stands at the Noorder-markt fl ea- and organic market for this traditional Dutch treat. Noordermarkt

BLOMMESTEINtompouceThis bakery produces the most delicious tompouces in Amster-dam. The tompouce is one of the most iconic (and diffi cult to eat) Dutch pastries: two layers of puff pastry with cream fi lling, topped with smooth pink icing. Churchilllaan 26

HET OUD-HOLLANDSCHSNOEPWINKELtraditional candyThe Old Dutch Candyshop, located in the heart of the Jordaan district, offers delightful candy made the way our grandparents used to enjoy it. Dare to try drop (licorice) – most Dutchies’ favourite candy.Egelantiersdwarsstraat 2

LANSKROONBANKETBAKKERIJstroopwafelsFamous for their giant-sized homemade stroopwafels, this confectionary tea room has been around since 1908, boasting four generations of master bakers. While traditional stroopwafels have caramel fi lling, Lanskroon offers two mouthwatering fl avours: hopjes (coffee and caramel toffee) and honing (honey).Singel 385

DRS KOEKKENBAKKERcustomised cakesThis lovely lady creates the most amazing customised birthday and wedding cakes. Arienne does not have a shop or bakery open to public yet, so requests are done via phone or e-mail. The chocolate cake with raspberry mousse is delicious!drskoekenbakker.nl

VAN STAPELEKOEKMAKERIJchocolate cookieHidden in a small alleyway close to the Spui Square lies a smallcookie store selling the best kind of chocolate cookie in the world: dark chocolate cookies with melt-in-your-mouth white chocolate inside.Heisteeg 4

THE SWEETEST SPOTSFrom traditional Dutch treats such as stroopwafels and po� ertjes to more classic cakes and pastries, these dessert addresses’ specialties will make your saccharine dreams come true. text Angel Trinidad

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