Copyright©2014byMarcoCanoraPhotographscopyright©2014byMichaelHarlanTurkell

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LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataCanora,Marco.Agoodfoodday:rebootyourhealthwithfoodthattastesgreat/MarcoCanora,withTammyWalker;photographsbyMichaelHarlanTurkell.—Firstedition.

Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex.1.Cooking,American.2.Naturalfoods.3.Diettherapy.4.Nutrition.I.Walker,TammyII.Title.TX715.C2192014641.5973—dc232013050632

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v3.1

TOMYWIFE,AMANDA,ANDOURTWOBEAUTIFULDAUGHTERS,

STELLAANDZADIE

CONTENTS

ForewordbyTimFerrissIntroduction:MyDailyBread10PrinciplesforaGoodFoodDayPantryStaplesforaGoodFoodDay

BREAKFASTSALADSVEGETABLESBEANS&LENTILSGREATGRAINSFISHMEAT&POULTRYSNACKSSWEETS

ReadingandResourcesAcknowledgmentsIndex

FOREWORDIvividlyremembermyfirstvisitto403East12Street.AssoonasIsteppedinthedoor,Iwasmetwithcuriousquestions.

Thefirstwas:“It’sreallyassy,right?”

“Grassy?”Iasked.

“No…assy,”Marcorepeatedloudly,overthebustleofthebar.

Itwastrue.TheredwinethatMarcohadhandedmesmelledjustlikeabarn.Thehintsofwet horse asswere unmistakable. This excitedme because (a) the Chinon (BernardBaudry,2010,LoireValley)wasthebestcabernetfrancI’deverhad,and(b)I’dfinallyfoundawinedescriptorIcouldunderstand.

MarcoCanora,ofcourse, isco-ownerandexecutivechefof theJamesBeardAward–nominatedHearth,wherewenowstood,justinsidetheentrance.Priortostrikingoutonhisown,heheldvariouspositionsatGramercyTavernandthefamedCibreoinFlorence,Italy. Hewas TomColicchio’s right-handman as the original chef of Craft restaurant,whichwonaJamesBeardAwardforBestNewRestaurantduringhistenure.

By the end of the evening, I concluded what many others had: Hearth is the mostunderratedrestaurantinallofNewYorkCity.

“Cookingisnothard.Cookingisnothard.”Marcorepeatedthisfivetimesduringourevening together.“I feel like I’vepulled thewoolovereveryone’seyesasa ‘successfulchefinNewYorkCity.’Anyonecoulddothis.”

“C’mon,”IsaidasIpointedtomyvegetablesalad,whichwasetherealandjuicy(notanadjectiveIuseforsalads),easilyoneofthebestsaladsofmylife.

He laughed and waved a hand dismissively. “People say, ‘Oh my God! This isamazing!’Justdressitwhilethevegetablesarewarm—itallsoaksin.Pourtheoilonaftertheredwinevinegar,andaddsaltandpepper.Anyonecoulddothis.”

And that’s the beauty of Marco. He can show you how to “pull the wool overeveryone’seyes”inwonderful,ethicalways.Cansimplefoodbeelegant?Candeliciousfoodbefast?Canathree-ingredientdish—slappedtogetherinfiveminutes—tastelikeittookhourstomake?Yes,and,believeitornot,itcanallbegoodforyou,evenifittasteslikesin.

I was introduced toMarco in 2009 because he’d lost 25-plus pounds experimentingwiththeSlow-CarbDiet®asdescribedinThe4-HourBody.He’dtweakedandfine-tunedthe guidelines to complement his incredible culinary skills. It was a formidablecombination… and a delicious one. He went from a size 40 waist to a size 35 waistwithouteverbeinghungryorbored.

ButMarco’snotrigidlydedicatedtoone“diet,”perse.

Marcohascherry-pickedhisfavoriteaspectsofmanybooksovertheyears,testingitallinhiskitchenand—more important—withhis stomach.He’s addedhisown inventions,turneda fewthingsupsidedown,puta twiston theclassics,andcreatedwhatyounow

holdinyourhands:aguidetomakingmasterpieceswithoutbeingamaster.

Marco is a pioneer, and I’ll recommend that you follow in his footsteps. In thewisewordsofBruceLee: “Absorbwhat is useful, discardwhat is not, addwhat is uniquelyyourown.”

Youareingreathands.Enjoytheride.

Puravida,

TIMFERRISS

authorofThe4-HourWorkweek,The4-HourBody,andThe4-HourChef

INTRODUCTIONMyDailyBreadI’vebeenaprofessionalchefandcookfortwentyyears,thelastsixteenoftheminNewYorkCity.I’malifer,andIloveit.Butbeingachefmeanscrazyhoursandevencraziereatinghabits.There’snosuchthingas“listeningtoyourbody”whenyou’reachef inaprofessional kitchen in New York. Awareness of my health and eating habits did notpossessaniotaofmybrainspace.

This iswhata typicaldayforme,aworkingchef,used to look like: Iwakeupat10a.m.andhitthecoffee.Idon’tfeelhungryforbreakfastbecauseIwasoutlastnight,afterdinnerservice,eatinganddrinkingwithchefbuddiesuntil2a.m.CoffeeismysustenanceuntilIgettotherestaurantintheafternoon—andthat’swhenIstartinonthebread.Loadsoffreshbreadarrivedaily,soIswipeaheelofbreadandcontinuepickingatitforafewhours. Now it’s time for a cigarette. I started smoking at age nineteen, but neverconsidered myself a hardcore smoker. As long as my first cigarette isn’t until the lateafternoon,I’mdoingallright.So,it’snow4:30p.m.and,ifyou’veaddeditup,theonlythingI’veputinmybodyisthequestionabletrinityofcoffee,bread,andcigarettes.

Staff gathers for familymeal at 4:30 p.m.,my firstmeal of the day. Familymeal ismeanttobecost-effectiveandfitforacrowd.It’sdelicious,butnotexactlythestuffDr.Ozispreachingabout.We’retalkingalotofmeat—andnotthelocalgrass-fedvariety,butthecheapercutsloadedwithfat,growthhormones,andantibiotics—orstarch-heavyfoodlikepastaandgarlicbread.Vegetables?Maybeasmallpileoflettuceasanafterthought,butnotmuchbeyondthat.

Ampedupbyanothercigaretteandafinallargecupofcoffee,Iheadintoservice.Sixhours of bright lights, heat, speed, and constant stimulation whiz by. Though I tasteddozensofbitesandingestedafulldinner’sworthofcalories,itneverfeelsliketheyaddup toameal.Servicewindsdown,andI’mthinkingabout relaxingwithasmokeandadrink.Afterafewofeach,Istarttogethungry.Iatelunchat4:30p.m.,sonowthatit’s1a.m., I’m ready for dinner. It’s howplentyof people feelwhen they finish their dayofwork,butformostit’s6p.m.,andformeandtherestoftheworkingchefsit’s1a.m.

Atthishour,I’mnotgoinghomeandwhippingupasalad.IheadtoCornerBistroforafewbeerstoppedoffbyacheeseburger,orgotoGreatNewYorkNoodletownforalate-nightChinesefeastofroastbabypig.OnthenightsIdon’tgoout,Istopbythe24-hourbodega,orderhamandcheeseonahardrollwithmustardandwaterylettuce,smashsomepotatochipsinit,andnailthatformy1:30a.m.dinnerjustbeforebed.Ialsomakeupforskippingthemorningcigarettesbysmokingteninthelastthreehoursofmynight.

Remarkably, this was my routine for nearly twenty years. I was overcaffeinated,dehydrated, overstimulated, and full of starch, sugar, fatty meat, alcohol, and nicotine.Untilmybodystartedtostagearevolt.

Quitetheglowingsetupforabookonhealthyeating,isn’tit?Asweallknow,lifehasawayofkickingyou in the ass.Being forced tomakea significant shift inmyowndietforcedmetorethinkwhatitmeanstocookandeathealthy.You’llbehappytoknowthatitsure as hell doesn’t mean deprivation or bland, pathetic-looking steamed vegetables.

Eatingnutritiousfoodsthatsupportfeelinggoodisn’tenough—thesefoodsshouldsatiateyou and taste so good that you look forward to eating them.With the right arsenal ofrecipes,ahealthydietcancoexistwithdeliciousfood.That’sagoodfoodday.Mywife,Amanda,cameupwiththenameforthisconcept,andithassteeredmyeverydayeatinghabitsforthepastthreeyears.

Nowatforty-five,post-brink-of-disasterrealization,I’mthehealthiestI’veeverbeen.Ihaveloadsofenergy,Iworkoutandpracticeyogaregularly,andIcookfoodthatactuallymakesmeexcitedtoeatthewayweknowwe’resupposedtobeeating.It’sacompleteU-turnfromjustfouryearsago,whenIwasachampattreatingmybodylikeapieceofshit.

AnExerciseinFutility

Here’sabitofironyforyou:Igrewupeatinghealthywholefoods.Myafter-schoolsnackwasabasketofmixednuts,leftintheirshellswithanutcrackerontheside.Nosodas,noHo Hos, no processed crap. My mom was far ahead of the curve in recognizing theimportance of natural food. She was born and raised in Tuscany, where good food iscentral to everyday life, and much of it comes from the land just outside the kitchenwindow.So,whileeveryoneelsewasgroovingonbreakfastcerealsandbolognaonwhitebread,mysisterandIwereeatingfrittataswithzucchiniandbasil,orwarmstringbeanandpotatosalad,allmadewithfreshvegetablesfromthegardenanddressedwithgoodoliveoilandredwinevinegar.Icarrythiswithmeinmyownrestaurant,Hearth,whereI’mfanaticalaboutpreparingtheabsolutebest-qualityingredientsforourguests.Whenitcametofeedingmyself,though,myonlyrequirementwasthatitbedelicious.Andforme,likemany people in this country, “delicious” too often equates with sugar-laden, fatty,processedgut-bombfood.

TherealkickerisIneverthoughtabouthowwhatIatemightaffectmeinthefuture.Ifigured the physical requirements of my seventy-hour-a-week job made up for anyexcesses inmydiet. Itwasmylife.Youweren’tgoingtofindmesweatingitoutat thegymorontheballfield—Iwashunchedoveracuttingboard.

WhenIhitmyearly thirties, Iwasdiagnosedwithsleepapneaand told that itwouldlikelyimproveifIdroppedsomeweight.Thismotivatedmetostartexercising,butitwasonly a half-assed effort until Iwas about thirty-seven.By then,Amanda and I had ourdaughterStella,so Iwasover the late-nightpartying,but Iwasstill smoking.Mypantssizehadcreptupfroma32toa38.Ifeltflabbyandsluggish,butIthoughtexercisewasthe root of my weight issues. So I got a gymmembership and, eventually, a personaltrainer.Thattrainerwasthefirstpersontofillmyheadwithsolidnutritionadvice—eatingbreakfast, switching to leanmeats, putting vegetables back inmy diet, etc.—but I stilldidn’tchangewhatIate.Ithoughtbyworkingmyassoffatthegymthreedaysaweekrackinguphoursofcardio,andcuttingdownonthelate-nightfoodfests,thattheslimandtrimMarcowouldappear.

Buthedidn’t.Ihadmoremuscledefinition,butIwasstillbustingoutofmypantsandfeelingbone-crushingly tired in theafternoon.Andyeah, Iwasforty,andIknewthingsslowdownasyougetolder,butIthoughtIhadmadeeveryefforttoseerealresults.Whatthehell?

Immensely frustratedandgameforanyhelp, Ivisitedanutritionistwhocamehighly

recommendedbyacoupleoffriends.IexplainedtohimhowI’dbecomealoyalgymratbutI’mnotlosinganyweight,andhowIfeelcompletelysappedofenergy,eventhoughI’m sleeping through thenight. I’m thinking theguy is going to giveme a fewhelpfultweakstomyeatinghabits,andI’llbeonmyway.

Instead,hescaredtheshitoutofmewithcold,hardnumbers:theresultsofmybloodworkandhisevaluation.Theverdict:Iwasprediabeticwithbloodglucoselevelsthroughthe roof, Ihadseriouslyhighcholesterol,and Iwas in the throesof full-blowngout—apainfulformofinflammatoryarthritis.Iwasalsothirtypoundsoverweightandlivingoncarbs, andmy thyroidwasn’t functioning properly.Not pretty.My nutritionist gavemelistsoffoodstoavoid—oneformyheightenedcholesterol,oneformyhighbloodsugar,andoneforgout.

ThishumblingmomentgavewaytoaholeofdespairthatIwallowedinfordays.Thenewswasterrifying.Don’tgetmewrong;Irealizemyconditioncouldhavebeenmuch,much worse. But the most alarming part wasn’t my condition; it was the paralyzingthought that I couldn’t enjoy food anymore. At the time, it seemed like I would besubjectedtoalifeofcaloriecountingandeatingcelerysticksandunsaltedalmonds.

Food is the center of everything for me: my heritage, family, social life, and entirecareer. In short, it’s a key player in my overall happiness. For just about anyone, thethought of overhauling yourwhole diet is a tough blow, but forme it fell just short ofcruel.Mydiagnosislitafireundermyasstomakesomechanges,butIknewIwouldbeamiserablepersonandunabletosticktoahealthydietifIhadtoeatrabbitfoodfortherestofmylife.

Mylovelywife,AmandaFilley.Withouther,I’dstillbeanunhealthywreck.

ThePleasureFactor

OnceIgotovermypityparty,Ilaunchedintoanall-outexaminationofwhatitmeanstohave a healthy diet. Lucky for me, Amanda is incredibly well-read on nutrition andbecame my source of day-to-day guidance, introducing me to things like chia seeds,quinoa, and bee pollen and inspiringme to dig further into the nuts and bolts of howcertainfoodsaffectedmybody.Tothisday,sheisahugepartofthereasonI’vebecome

so interested in what it means to eat well. I dove into books on health and nutrition,absorbing everything I could fromGary Taubes,Dr.Alejandro Junger,Michael Pollan,Tim Ferriss, Robert Lustig, and Dr. Mark Hyman, among many others. It becamesomewhatofanobsession.

Everybookhas itsownspecific theories,but theircollectiveadviceallboilsdowntothe same core messages about cutting down on sugar and processed foods, eatingbreakfast,andgettinginmorevegetables.Thebummeris thatwithoutgoodrecipes thatdeliver nutrition and delicious flavor, most of these books aren’t exactly motivatinganyone to step away from the bag of potato chips. Doctors, nutritionists, and foodieintellectualsofferabountyofindispensableinformation,butknowingthetechniquesformakingleanmeatsinsanelyflavorfulorhowtotreatkalesoit’scrave-worthyisn’t theirforte. Judging bymany of the recipes I came across, healthy cooking and eatingweresimplyactsofnecessity,notpleasure.Foodasfuel,notjoy.It’samessageIcouldneverwrapmyheadaround.

Thankfully,Ididn’thavetorelyonthemforguidanceinthekitchen.Asachef,Iknowaboutproperseasoningandwhichingredientsdeliverthebestpossibleflavorstomakeadishwortheatingagainandagain.Ialsohaveawell-tunedpalateandasenseofcreativityandknow-howinthekitchen.So,Igotbusyusingmyskillstocreateastableofhealthyingredient–focusedrecipesthatnotonlytastedamngoodbutalsoembodymydeep-rootedloveandappreciationforgreatfood.

Mytwoamazingdaughters,Stella,8,andZadie,2.

Withthese125recipes,I’vetranslatedtheadviceonhowyoushouldeatintowhatyoucan cook: dishes that are delicious and satisfying, and that actually inspire you towanthealthyfoodsateverymeal. I’llhelpyou take thebasic tenetsofahealthydietandputthemintoactioninyourkitchen,soyou’remakinggood-for-youfoodyouactuallywanttoeat. I’mnot adietician, adoctor,oryourmom. I’mnothere topromoteweight lossorlow-carb,grain-free,low-fat,orno-meatdietsortoaskyoutoplaysomenumbersgamewith calories. My recipes are focused on whole, real foods that are nutritional

powerhouses.Thiscan includewholemilkfroma localdairyfarm,ororganicgrass-fedbeef,becausebothfoodsarenaturalandpackedwithnutrients.Theideaoflow-fatstringcheeseand100-caloriecookiepacksashealthyfoodsistotalbullshit—thoseareprocessedfoods,notrealfoods.Throughoutthebook,I’llsharebasicinformationaboutthenutritiontopicsthatnowinfluencemyfoodchoices,andyou’llseehowmyrecipesgibewiththeprinciplesofagoodfoodday.

Likemyfirstbook,SalttoTaste,thiscollectionofrecipesisforeverydaycooking.Youwon’tfindalaundrylistofstuffyou’veneverheardof,andyoudon’tneedtospendfivehoursinthekitchen.Itakeonthesimplestofingredients,theworkhorsesofhealthydiets,and give you luscious flavor combinations and easy techniques that are designed forconvenienceandflexibility.Onceyougetintoagroove,Ihopeyou’llkeepexperimenting.Thinkofmyrecipesasabasicformula:Learnthem,andthenpluginthefoodsandflavorsthatspeaktoyou.I’mnotheretoshowyouwhatachef-geniusIam—Iwanttosharethemost importantandbasicknowledge thatwillempoweryou tobegincookingdelicious,nutritiousfoodforyourself.

There’sanevolutionthathappenswhenyoudecidetogodownthisroad.Yourwilltolive a healthier lifestyle starts to feed on itself. It becomes reflex. I was jazzed by thepositiveeffects,likehavingmoreenergy,sheddingweight,andbecomingahealthierrolemodelformydaughters.WhenIeatanavocadosalad,IgetthesameburstofpleasureandsenseofindulgencethatIusedtogetfrominhalingabaconcheeseburger.I’mnotkiddingorexaggerating.That’snottosayIdon’tgofortheoccasionalburgerorsliceofpizza—Ido,andIgoatitwithgusto.Butthechangehitshomewhenyouhavethatlate-nightpieceofcheesecakeandrealizethatyounolongerfeelguiltyaboutitbecauseit’strulyatreat,notadailyhabitanymore.

Ifyourecentlydecided tocleanupyourdietandyou’reafraid thatanyenjoymentoffood isnowout thewindow,or ifyou’realreadyahealthy foodproand feel stuck inacookingrut,youpickeduptherightbook.Withmyrecipes,you’llfindthathealthyeatingdoesn’tmeanbeingbanished to a lifeofuninspired,blandchickenbreasts and steamedbroccoli.Asachefandhealthyeaterwhoknowsand lovesfoodandcooking, I’ll showyouthatwithahealthydiet,thereisstilljoyineating.Agoodfooddayisn’taboutpattingyourself begrudgingly on the back for eating the way you’re “supposed to,” it’s abouteatingsuperdeliciousfoodwithacleardirectiontowardbetterhealth.Myjoyisderivedfirstandforemostfromfoodthattastesgood,butthebonusisthatnow,itmakesmefeelgoodtoo.

10PRINCIPLESFORAGOODFOODDAYIt’seasytogetboggeddownintheconstantlyevolving,sometimesconfusingdetailsofhealthyeatingadvice.Thefollowingsetofprinciplesismystripped-downversionofallthenutritionnoise,anditfunctionsasmyday-to-dayguide.There’snoone-size-fits-allapproachtoagoodfoodday,andyourowndefinitionofitmaychangeovertime.Myhopeisthatthisroadmapisflexibleenoughtohelpguideyou,nomatterwhatyourinterpretation.

1Eatingmust be enjoyable. On a good food day, eating is still a primary source ofpleasure.Withqualityingredients,afewbasiccookingskills,andtherecipesinthisbook,youcancreatemealsthataresodeliciousandsatisfying,theyfeelindulgent.Deprivationisn’tthesolution—satisfactionis.

2Cookingempowersyoutoeatbetter.Bycookingyourownfood,you’reincontrolofwhat goes in your body, and youwon’t eat nearly asmuch sugar, salt, and fat aswhatyou’llgetwithprocessedfoods.AsMichaelPollansaid,“Cooking,transformingtherawstuffofnature intonutritiousandappealing things forus toeatanddrink, isoneof theinterestingandworthwhilethingswehumansdo.”

3 Proper prior planning prevents piss-poor performance. Feeding yourself (andothers) the right foods requires thought and planning. You don’t want to have to cookeverytimeyouneedtoeat,soplantomakelargerbatchesofleftover-friendlyfoodsthatcanberepurposedintonewmeals.Manyoftherecipesinthisbookarescaledupforgreatleftovers—thesewillsaveyoufroma lotofpoor impulsechoices. Itmightseemoverlytime-consuming at first, but once you establish a system—planning meals, choosing ashoppingday,andmakingascheduleforcookingdays—itbecomesareflex.

4Get in syncwithMotherNature. In-season ingredientscheckevery importantbox:Theyarebetter tasting,morenutritious,higherquality,andmoreaffordable.Asseasonsand ingredients shift, so should your cookingmethods. You don’t want a slow-cookedstewonahotsummerdayoracoldtomatosaladinthedeadofwinter,right?

5Qualityingredientsareeverything.Thecloserafoodistoitswholeform,thebetter.The surest path to finding quality ingredients is your local farmers’ market, whereeverythingisfreshandinseason.Atasupermarket,organicbecomesmoreofaprioritybecause certified organic foods are held to a higher standardof production.Choose thehighest-qualityoptionyoucanafford.

6Eatrealfood.Manyprocessedfoodshaveartificialingredients,chemicals,additives,andexcess salt, sugar,andpotentiallyharmful typesof fat.Thiscanbe trueeven if thefoodisorganicorfromahealthfoodstore,orscreamsbuzzwordslike“wholegrain!”onthepackage. Ifyoubuyprocessed foods, ignore the labels and let the ingredient listbeyourguide.Lookforrealingredientsthatyouknowaregoodforyou.

7Be a conscious eater. The act of eating should be a restorative interlude in yourstressful, chaotic day, not a time for multitasking. By giving meals the attention theydeserve, you eat at a slower pace and give your body a chance to register taste andsatisfaction.Youwind up feeling satiatedwith smaller portion sizes and enjoying yourfoodmore.Slowdown.Chew.Savoryourfood.

8Atwingeofhunger isn’t theendof theworld.Mostofus shovel fooddownwithsuch frequency thatwe don’t knowwhat hungry feels like. Familiarizing yourselfwithhunger signals is a key part of learning to feed yourself well. Not shaky, lightheaded,desperationhunger,but the twingeof tightening inyour stomach that first alertsyou tohunger.Whenyoustartfromthispoint,you’lldiscoverwhichfoodsandquantitiestrulysatisfyyou.Youmayneedalotlessfoodthanyouthink.

9Diversify.Foodboredomisfrustratingandleadsbacktooldhabitsandcrappychoices.Eatingwellforthelongtermrequireschoosingfoodswithawiderangeofflavors,colors,andtextures.Thisnotonlykeepsmealsinterestingandsatisfying,buteatingavarietyoffoodsalsoincreasesyourchancesofgettingallthenutrientsyouneed.

10Makeindulgencesaguilt-freepartoftheprogram.Callitacheatday,the90/10rule(eatwell90percentofthetime,splurgetheother10percent),orwhateverresonateswithyou.Grantingyourselfpermissiontosay“tohellwithit”onceinawhileincreasesyourchancesofsuccessfullystickingtogoodeatinghabits.

PANTRYSTAPLESFORAGOODFOODDAYTostacktheodds infavorofhavingagoodfoodday, it’sessential tosurroundyourselfwiththerightfoods—thosethatreallyampuptheflavorandthenutritionofyourmeals.This list isawindowintomykitchenonanaverageweek.It’sbynomeansexhaustive,sincemuch ofmy cooking is driven by seasonal produce and fresh fish andmeat.Butyou’llfindmostoftheingredientsyouneedtopreparetherecipesinthisbook,plusafewotherbasicsthatlendthemselvestoeasy,deliciousimpromptumealsandkeepyououtofthe fast-food drive-thru line. The good-for-you benefits of many of the items here arecoveredwithin the chapters where I put them into action, so this list is an at-a-glanceshopping reference.Also, Idon’tcallout localororganic in frontofevery foodhere—theseareagivenforme(seePrinciple#5),andapersonalchoicebasedonyourbudget.

Youmightraiseaneyebrowatafewitemshere,buteachhasitsplaceinahealthydiet.Rightoffthebat,youcanseeIdon’tshyawayfromfat.Goodfats,evensomesaturatedfats likewholemilkandgrass-fedbutter,are foundation ingredients ineveryoneofmyrecipes for flavor,mouthfeel, and,yes, theirnutritionbenefits. I alsodon’t think there’sanything inherentlywrongwith eatingmeat, as long as it’s properly sourced. So, eventhoughthey’reoftenassociatedwithhealthyeating,Idon’tusemeatsubstitutesliketofu,tempeh, or seitan. It boils down to this—taking a whole food in its natural form andprocessing it (to remove its fat, reduce its carbs, or turn it into something that acts likemeat)denaturesittosomedegree.Processedfoodsareneverasgoodastherealdeal.

FRESHANDINTHEFRIDGEDairy

•Wholemilk•Unsweetenedalmondmilk,ricemilk,andhempmilk•Full-fatplainyogurt—Greekandregular•Grass-fedbutter• Cheese, glorious cheese—Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, cheddar, andgoatcheeseorGouda

Animalproteins

•Eggs•Grass-fedgroundbeef•Poultry—thighs,bonelessskinlessbreasts,andwhole•Fish—wildAlaskansalmon,localwhitefish,oliveoil–packedbrownanchoviesinajarforcooking,andmarinatedwhiteanchoviesforusingwhole

Produce

•Freshlemons,limes,bananas,andwhateverfruitisinseason• For everyday cooking—red and yellow onions, garlic, carrots, celery, avocado,freshginger,andanyin-seasonvegetables•Hardycookinggreens—Tuscankale,Swisschard,escarole,spinach,cabbage,andbokchoy•Saladgreens—arugula,dandelion,redleaflettuce,andBibblettuce

Rawnutsandseeds

(yes,theseshouldberefrigerated,sotheystayfreshlonger)

•Seeds—chia,flax,pumpkin,andsunflower•Nuts—almonds,walnuts,pistachios,hazelnuts,pinenuts,andpecans•Almondbutter,rawandunsalted•Peanutbutter,unsweetened

Stocks

•Chicken,vegetable,andmushroom

Floursandnutmeals

(refrigerate;otherwisethey’llgorancid)

•Flours—wholewheat,spelt,rye,buckwheat,*corn(flour,notmeal),coconut,oat,*millet,andchickpea•Nutmeals*—almondandhazelnut

*These floursandnutmeals canbemadebygrinding thewholegrainornut ina food

processor.

Condiments

•Dijonmustardandwhole-grainmustard•Lacto-fermentedvegetables•Soysauce,tamari,fishsauce•Olives—niçoiseandCastelvetrano•Capersinbrine

INTHEFREEZER

•Vegetables—carrots,broccoli,spinach,peas,andstringbeans• Fruit—blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and bananas (peeled and frozen forsmoothies)•Breads—FoodforLifeEzekiel4:9SproutedWholeGrainBreadandNordicBreadsFinnishRuis

INTHEPANTRYOilsandvinegars

•Extravirginoliveoil•Virgincoconutoil•Nutandseedoils—walnutoil,hazelnutoil,andsesameoil(cold-pressed)•Vinegars—redwine,whitewine,balsamic,applecider,sherry,rice,brownrice

Cannedgoods

•Tomatopaste•Wholepeeledtomatoes•Unsweetenedcoconutmilk

Driedbeansandlentils

•Beans—cannellini,cranberry,pinto,black,kidney,andchickpeas•Lentils—Puyandbrown

Driedfruits

•Cranberries,raisins,dates,figs,andmango

Seasoningsandspices

•Seasalt—fine-grainandlargeflake•Wholeblackpeppercorns—pregroundpepperdoesnotcomeclosetotheflavorofwholepeppercornsfreshlygroundinapeppermill• Whole spices—cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise, fennel seeds, dried chilepeppers,nutmeg• Ground spices—cinnamon, ginger, coriander, cardamom, chili powder, za’atar,Chinesefive-spicepowder,currypowder,cayennepepper,smokedpaprika•Wholevanillabeansandpurevanillaextract•Driedrosemaryanddriedoregano•Driedporcinianddriedshiitakemushrooms•Tea—green,ginger,andblack•Coffee

Wholegrains

•Oats—rolled,steel-cut•Buckwheatgroats•Rice—brownsweetandbrownbasmati•Farro•Freekeh•Quinoa•Amaranth

•Millet•Barley•Bulgurwheat

Sweeteners

•Maplesyrup•Honey—rawhoney,clover(light)andbuckwheatorchestnut(dark)•Coconutpalmsugar•Unsulfuredblackstrapmolasses•Lightbrownsugar

Chocolate

•Unsweetenedrawcacaopowder•Darkchocolate(70%cacaoorhigher)

THEBIGFATMYTHMore than a few questionable trendswere born in the ’80s (acid-wash jeans, sun-driedtomatoes, my smoking habit), and one of the more notorious still lives on today—fatphobia.Foryears,theU.S.DepartmentofAgriculture(USDA)hashandedusthelinethatfatisevil,especiallysaturatedfat,andthatitturnsyouintoablimpwithhighcholesterolandcloggedarteries.Peoplehavetradedfat-containingfoodslikesteak,butter,andeggsforchemical-ladenmutantfoods.Thefactisthatwhileeveryonewasbusystressingoverfat grams, we all got fatter.What gives?Well, we replaced fat with sugar and refinedcarbohydrates—the real culprits behind weight gain, diabetes, and heart disease. Fatbrings flavor, somanufacturersmade up for it by loading “healthy” fat-free foodswithsugar.Likeallrefinedcarbs,sugaronlyincreasesyourappetite,settingthestageforyoutopolishoffaboxofreduced-fatSnackwellcookies inonesitting(seemoreonsugar’seffectsonthebody).

We need fat, and the quality of fat is as important as the quantity. Naturalmonounsaturatedandpolyunsaturatedfatsfoundinextravirginoliveoil,walnuts,salmon,flaxseeds,andavocadoscanimprovebloodcholesterollevelsandreducetheriskforheartdisease. I’m sure you’ve heard of omega-3 fatty acids, a class of polyunsaturated fatsknown for fighting inflammation, with such huge benefits that they get their ownspotlight.Goodfatsmakefoodmoresatisfying,sohavingareasonableamountateverymealcankeepyoufrompackingonweight.Eatingapieceoftoastwithmashedavocadocurbsyourhungerlongerthantoastwithjelly,becausethefatinavocadoslowsdowntheabsorptionofcarbohydratesinthebread.Yourbloodsugarstayssteadier,andyou’relesslikelytobeelbow-deepinabagofsnacksbeforeyournextmeal.Youalsoneedgoodfatssoyourbodycanabsorbmoreofthefat-solublevitaminsinvegetables,includingvitaminsDandE(yetanotherreasonfat-freedressingsareabadidea—theydonothingtohelpyouabsorballthegoodyoursaladscando).

The bad fats, so we’ve been told for decades, are the saturated fats in meat, butter,cheese,darkchocolate,andcoconut.These fatsare supposedly responsible forourhighcholesterol,heartattacks,andstrokes—butthisisjustplainwrong.Thedemonizationofsaturated fat can be traced back to one scientist, Ancel Keys, and his flawed SevenCountries Study that began in the 1950s. Keys’s study compared fat intake and heartdisease insevencountriesand found those thatate themost fathad thehighest ratesofheart disease. The sketchy part? Keys gathered statistics for twenty-two countries, butfocusedonlyontheseventhatsupportedhistheorythatsaturatedfatcontributestoheart

disease.Ifeverycountrystudiedhadbeenincluded,theresultswouldshowthattherewasno link.Unfortunately,Keys’s version of the results took hold, themedical communityandourgovernmentstartedrecommendingalow-fatdiet,andpeopleloadeduponfat-freefrozenwafflesandICan’tBelieveIt’sNotButter.

AsIwritethis,there’sstillnolarge-scalestudyshowingsaturatedfatleadstoahigherriskofheartdisease.Thisdoesn’tmeanit’sasbeneficialasunsaturatedfat,butweknowsometypesofsaturatedfatsareharmless,andothershaveproventobehelpful.Wenowknowthatstearicacid,oneofthesaturatedfatsinbeefandthemainoneindarkchocolate,raisesHDL (good) cholesterol andhasnoeffectonLDL (bad) cholesterol, and that thelauric acid in virgin coconut oil improves overall cholesterol levels.Keep this inmindwhenyouseebutter,wholemilk,andbeefinahandfulofmyrecipes—youmaybalkatthesesaturatedfatsaspartofahealthydiet,buttheydo,infact,havearightfulplacewhentheycomefromaqualitysource.

The undisputed villains are artificial trans fats, used to increase the shelf life ofprocessedfoodslikecakemixes,soups,frosting,pastries,andchips.They’realsoin thepartiallyhydrogenatedoilusedforfryingatmostfast-foodjoints.TransfatsraiselevelsofLDLcholesteroland lower thoseofHDLcholesterol,andhavebeen linked to theextrarolls of belly fat people carry around. Foodmanufacturers are now required to list theamountof trans fats, somanyof themchanged their formulas tocutdown.But they’restill lurking,thankstoaloopholethatallowsfoodswithupto0.5gramsoftransfatperserving to be listed as zero.Even though theFood andDrugAdministration ismakingmovestoeliminateartificialtransfatsentirely,theeasiestwaytoavoidthemistolayoffprocessed foods entirely. Check ingredient lists for “partially hydrogenated oil” or“hydrogenatedoil”—thegiveawaythattransfatsarepresent.

I also stay away from vegetable oils like canola, corn, and soybean. Sure, they’reunsaturated and have some omega-3s, but unlike extra virgin olive oil, they can’t beextracted through pressing naturally. They’re heavily processed, overheated, anddeodorized,allofwhichinvolvespotentiallyharmfulchemicals.It’smind-bogglingtomethat these are recommendedashealthywhen their processing requires the same solvent(hexane)that’susedinshoeglue.

GoodfatshavetobekeyplayersineverythingIeat.Extravirginoliveoilhasalwaysbeen a given in my cooking, but I’ve branched out, adding full-fat Greek yogurt andalmond butter to breakfast shakes, coconut milk to soups and desserts, chia seeds tooatmeal and snacks. They make food delicious and satisfying—and replacing a lot ofrefined carbs and sugar with good fats is ultimately how I lost and nowmaintain myweight.Repeatafterme:Goodfatdoesnotmakeyoufat!

BREAKFAST

I’VESPENTMYENTIRELIFENOTbeinghungryinthemorning.Ihearthesametunefromotherpeopletoo:“WhyshouldIeatbreakfastifI’mnothungry?”Thebetterquestiontoaskis“WhyamInothungry?”Theanswerisprobablybecauseyouatetoomuchortoolatethenightbefore.ThatwascertainlythecaseformeduringallthoseyearswhenIlulledmyselfintoafoodcomawithaplateofporkandahalfdozenbeersat1a.m.Adviceonhealthyeatingcanbeconflictingashell,butthereisonekey

nuggetthatisnearlyundisputed:theimportanceofeatingbreakfast.Takethewordbreakfastatfacevalue:Themealismeantto“breakthefast”you’vebeeninwhilesleeping.Itkicksyourmetabolismintogear,lesseningyourlikelihoodofturningintoaravenouspiglaterintheday.Aslewofstudiesalsoshowthateatingbreakfastincreasesmentalclarityandtheoverallabilitytogetshitdone.Giventheloadofevidencethateatingbreakfastisacornerstoneofahealthy

diet,Itrainedmyselftobehungryinthemorningbynoteatingafter9p.m.Thiscutsoutallthemindlessmunchingandlate-nightmealsthatgetinthewayofrestorativesleepandthedesiretoeatafterwakingup.Itmaymeanthatyouoccasionallygotobedwithatwingeofhunger—that’sokay.Ourancestorsdidn’thaveround-the-clockaccesstofoodlikewedo.Wearebuilttogetbywithoutmidnightsnacks.The“kitchen-closed”timemaybedifferentforyoubasedonyourschedule,butifyoustopeating12hoursbeforeyouplantowakeup—andyoudothisdiligently—you’llgettoknowmorninghunger.Allbreakfastsarenotcreatedequal,sochoosingtherightfoodsintheright

quantityiscrucial.InthetypicalAmericandiet,thedaystartswithabigbowlofcerealorasugarypastrythesizeofyourhead.Lowinproteinandfiber,thesebreakfastsarenothingbutsimplecarbohydratesthatleaveyoufeelinglimpandhungrytwohourslater.I’mwillingtobetthatifyouneedasnacktomakeittolunchtime,you’vegotasimplecarbsituationgoingonatbreakfast.Youneedfoodswithstayingpower,sotherecipesinthischapterfavorprotein,fiber,andqualityfats,usingeggs,nuts,fruits,andwholegrains,foodscontainingnutrientsthattakemoretimeforyourbodytodigest.Theyhangoutinyourstomachforawhile,makingyoufeelfullerlongerandgivingyouamoresteadysupplyofenergy.Besidesnotfeelinghungryinthemorning,thebiggestrantIhearabout

breakfastisthatthere’snotimeforit.Igetthat—I’monautopilotinthemorning,andonaweekdayIdon’twanttothinkaboutwhattomakewhilerubbingthesleepoutofmyeyes.Breakfastshouldbeano-brainer,andspeedisthenameofthegame,sokeepingpantrystaplesstockedandhavingon-the-flybreakfastideaslikethosehereareofmajorimportance.Mostofusarecreaturesofhabitwhenitcomestobreakfast.Igethookedona

particularkindofbreakfastandtryamillionandonevarieties.Ididthatwithshakes(agreatstartingpointifyou’renotusedtoeatingbreakfast),thencycledintoaneggkick,andnowI’minabreakfastsandwichphase.Thischapterholds

allmyfavorites—theonesthatconsistentlyluremeoutofbed.Afewaremake-aheadrecipesthatIkeeparoundforespeciallycomatoseorrushedmornings.Otherscometogetherquicklythankstostapleslikefrozenfruit,eggs,oats,andwhole-grainbread.I’vealsoincludedoptionsforthosedayswhenyouhavetheluxuryoftimeandwantsomethingspecial.Whateveryoudo,don’tskipbreakfast.It’snotagoodfooddaywithoutit.

DarkBerryShake

DARKBERRYSHAKEMAKES1SHAKEInthesummer,Iusefreshberriesfromthegreenmarket,buttherestofthetimeIusefrozenorganicberries.Ilovehowthefrozenberriesmaketheshakeextrafrothy.Groundgingerisoneofmygo-tobreakfastspices,alongwithcinnamon.Thegingerworksespeciallywellinfruitshakeswhereit’sanice,subtlekickalongsidethefruit’snaturalsugars.Berrieshavethehighestantioxidantlevelsofanyothercommonlyavailablefruit.Antioxidantsaredisease-fightingpowerhousesthatprotectthebodyagainsttheeffectsofagingandmayhelppreventheartdiseaseandcertaintypesofcancer.BerriesarealsohighinfiberandvitaminsCandE.Whenthesegemsaren’tinseason,hitthefreezersection—frozenberrieshavethesamenutritionaljackpotasfresh.

½cupblueberries½cupblackberries¼cupfull-fatplainGreekyogurt¾cupunsweetenedalmondmilk1tablespoonvirgincoconutoil½teaspoongroundginger1tablespoonchiaseeds

Addeverythingtoablenderandbuzzuntilsmooth,about1minute.

MangoGreenShake

MANGOGREENSHAKEMAKES1SHAKEGreenjuicescontinuetobethedarlingsofthehealthyfoodworld,butthereareplentyouttherethatareprimarilyfruitjuicepackedwithsugarandonlyacoupleofgreenleaves.Hardlytheveggie-centrichealthtonicyouexpectittobe.Iprefergreenshakes,becauseusingwholefruitsandvegetablesslowsdownthebody’sbloodsugarresponse,andthefibermeansyoufeelfullsoonerandlonger.Inthisrevivingshake,creamy,sweetmangomeetsrefreshingcucumberandcoconutwater,alongwithanunexpectedgreen:cilantro.Thewordisthateatingcilantroisanaturalwaytocleanseyourbodyofheavymetalslikemercuryandlead.Asaformersmoker,Ishouldprobablybeeatingthestuffbythefistful.Cilantro:It’snotjustagarnishfortacos!

½cupfrozenmangochunks¼cuplightlypackedcilantroleaves½cucumber,sliced(about1cup)¾cupcoconutwaterJuiceof1smalllime

Addeverythingtoablenderandbuzzuntilsmoothandcreamy,about1minute.

CHOCOLATESHAKEMAKES1SHAKEChocolateforbreakfast.That’sbasicallywhat’sgoingonhere.Thankstoraw,unsweetenedorganiccacaopowder,youcanstartyourdayorfeedapost-dinnersweettoothwithadecadent,disease-fightingshake.Ifyouneedachocolatefix,thisshake’sdeep,richchocolateflavordoesthejob.Thesweetnesscomesfromtheripebanana,soifyourbananasstillhaveagreentintwhenyoufreezethem,youmaywanttoaddateaspoonofhoneytotheshake.Unsweetenedrawcacaopowderishighinflavonoids,whicharepowerfulantioxidantsfoundinplants.Whenrawcacaobeansaremadeintopackagedchocolateproducts,theflavonoidsandalltheirbenefitsarelost.So,yourhealthiestoptionisunsweetenedorganicrawcacaopowder.Useitinthisshake,stiritintooatmeal,bakewithit,ormakeakillerhotchocolate.

1ripebanana,peeledandfrozen1tablespoonrawalmondorcashewbutter2tablespoonsunsweetenedrawcacaopowder1cupunsweetenedalmondmilk½teaspoongroundcinnamon

Addeverythingtoablenderandbuzzuntilsmoothandcreamy,about1minute.

SHAKESTheonlyshakeIusedtodrinkwasonemadefromahalf-quartoficecream.Ofcourse,afewhourslaterIwasnursingamilkshakehangover(withsomeformofbread).WhenIstartedcreatingthebreakfasthabit,myfocusonhigh-proteinoptions

ledmetoproteinpowder,andashakewastheeasiestwaytouseit.I’vesincemovedawayfromproteinpowders,becauseI’mmoreintousingwholefoodstogetmynecessarynutrients.However,shakesstilldoitforme,especiallyinthespringandsummerwhensomethingcoldforbreakfastseemslikeagoodidea.Ialsoloveshakesbecauseofthemobilityfactor:I’musuallypouringthecontentsoftheblenderintoaglassjarandflyingoutthedoor.MymorningshakeistheonlytimeI’mokaywithdrinkingmycalories,

becauseIknowit’sfilledwithqualitywholefoods.Theproteincomesfromingredientslikealmondbutter,chiaseeds,Greekyogurt,andoats.Theliquidbasevaries,butit’stypicallyalmondmilk—it’sthinnerthancow’smilk,butitstillhasbody;anditsnuttyflavorandfaintsweetnessworkwellinallkindsofshakes.Thekeytothick,creamyshakesisn’tmilkoricecream—it’sfrozenbananas.Irecommendcuttingpeeledbananasintochunksbeforefreezingthem,especiallyifyou’renotworkingwithahigh-poweredblender.Frozenfruitingeneralisgreatforshakesbecauseitaddsflavor,fiber,andafrostyqualitythateliminatestheneedforice.

ODETOORANGEJULIUSSHAKEMAKES1SHAKEOrangeJuliusstoreswereahugepartofmallcultureinthe’80s,andmyteenageweekendsofcruisingthemallalwaysincludedtheirsweet,frothyorangedrinks.MyplayontheclassicJuliusisjustascold,creamy,andbright,butit’snaturallysweetenedandusesGreekyogurttoboosttheproteinfactor.Ialsousewholefreshfruit,notjustthejuice,toaddfiberandthickness.WesendoutacomplimentaryshotglassofthisshaketobrunchguestsatHearth.Mostcommercialhoney,likethekindinthesqueezybearbottles,istreatedwithahighheatprocessthatdestroyssomeofhoney’snaturalvitamins,minerals,andenzymes.Iprefertouseraw,unprocessedhoney.Ithasnotbeenheatedorfilteredsoitstillcontainsbeepollenandallofitsbeneficialnutrients.Rawhoneylooksdifferentthanprocessedversions—it’sopaqueandsolidatroomtemperature.Buyitatyourlocalfarmer’smarket,andsaveitforrecipeswhereitwon’tbeheated,likethisshake.

½grapefruit,peeled½orange,peeled½teaspoonpurevanillaextract1tablespoonrawhoney1cupice½cupfull-fatplainGreekyogurt

Addeverythingtoablenderandbuzzuntilsmoothandcreamy,about1minute.

GojiBerryandBananaShake

GOJIBERRYANDBANANASHAKEMAKES1SHAKEThisfillingshakeskewssweet,soifyou’retryingtoweanyourselfoffsugarycereals,givethisoneago.Gojiberries,thestarofthisbrightorange-redshake,getalotofbuzzfortheirantioxidantpowers.Here,theirtangysweetnessisbalancedbygroundflaxseed,whichaddsanuttyflavor,goodfat,andfiber.Don’tskipsoakingthegojiberries;thisplumpsandsoftensthem.Ifyoudon’thaveaminutetospareinthemorning,soakthemovernight.Gojiberriesarecommonlyfoundindriedformandlooklikeredraisins.SomeofthegojiberryhypeisoverblownandrelatedtoanancientChinesemyththattheycancureanythingandhelpyoudrasticallyextendyourlifespan_Buttheircrazy-highlevelsofbetacarotene(whichconvertstovitaminAinthebody)andvitaminC,andhighconcentrationofprotein(morethananyotherfruit),makethemworthaddingtoyourshakesormunchingonasasnack.

¼cupdriedgojiberries,soakedinwaterfor10minutesanddrained1ripebanana,peeledandfrozen½cupunsweetenedricemilk2tablespoonsgroundflaxseed½cupice

Addeverythingtoablenderandbuzzuntilsmoothandcreamy,about1minute.Giveitatasteandaddmorericemilkoriceifyoulikeathinnershake.

PEAR-MAPLEOATMEALSHAKEMAKES1SHAKEWhenyouthinkofoatmeal,abeverageprobablyisn’tamongthefirstthingsthatcometomind.Itwasn’tformeeitheruntilonesleepymorningwhenIwasdecidingbetweenmakingashakeandgrabbingsomeleftoversteel-cutoats.Iendedupwithamash-upofbreakfaststhat’sreminiscentofathick,creamymilkshake.Ithasallthefiberandstayingpowerofsteel-cutoatsintheconvenientlyportableformofashake.There’saslightchewtoit,whichhelpssignalasenseoffullness.Bartlettpearsaresweetandjuicy,thetwocharacteristicsyouneedtobalancetheheftoftheoatmeal.Thefallflavorsofpearandmaplearemadetogotogether.

¾cupcooked,cooledSteel-CutOats1Bartlettpear,chopped(about1cup)½cupunsweetenedalmondmilk1tablespoonmaplesyrup

Addeverythingtoablenderandbuzzuntilcompletelysmooth,about1minute.Ifyoufeelit’stoothick,addafewextratablespoonsofalmondmilktoreachtheconsistencyyoulike.

CHERRY-VANILLAOATMEALSHAKEMAKES1SHAKEThisshakewasinspiredbyBen&Jerry’sCherryGarcia,stilloneoftheworld’sgreatesticecreamflavors(andoneIhaven’thadmuchofsinceIchangedmyeatinghabits).Thecherriesandvanillaaregreatontheirown,butIoccasionallytossinalittlecacaopowderforaddedrichness.

¾cupcooked,cooledSteel-CutOats1cupfreshorfrozenpittedBingcherries¼teaspoonpurevanillaextract½cupunsweetenedalmondmilk2teaspoonsunsweetenedrawcacaopowder(optional)

Addeverythingtoablenderandbuzzuntilcompletelysmooth,about1minute.Ifyoufeelit’stoothick,addacoupletablespoonsofalmondmilktoreachtheconsistencyyoulike.

POTOFSTEEL-CUTOATSSERVES6TO8Inthecoldermonths,nootherbreakfastfeelsasheartyandfortifying,orkeepsmesatisfiedaslongasabowlofhotsteel-cutoats.There’sanincrediblenuttycreaminessthathappenswhenthestarchreleasesfromtheoatsandmingleswithalmondandcoconutmilks.Theircookingtimeisn’tconducivetothemorningrush,sowemakeabigbatchintheeveningandeatitforthenextthreeorfourdaysasaquickno-brainerbreakfast.Steel-cutoatsarechunkierthanrolledoatsandhaveasturdy,chewytexturethatholdsupwelltoreheating(unlikerolledoats,whichcangetgluey).Ifindthey’reevenbetterthenextday,afterhavingsometimetositwiththemilkandcinnamon.TherearemorningswhenIdiginasis,buttoppingshelpkeepitinterestingfromdaytoday.Mygo-tocombinationisdriedfruitwithchoppedhazelnutsandatablespoonofmaplesyrup,butyoucantakeitanydirectionyoulikewithfruit,nuts,spices,andnaturalsweeteners.Coconutmilkispressedfromthemeatofacoconut,whichisagoldmineofnutritionalvalue.It’shighinatypeofsaturatedfatthathasgerm-anddisease-fightingpowersandmayhelplowertotalcholesterollevels.Coconutmilk’sbountyalsoincludesvitaminsEandC,iron,calcium,potassium,andantioxidantsgalore.It’savailableincartonsandcans,andforcookingIpreferthethick,richtextureofcannedcoconutmilk:Whenyoupopopenacan,themilkmaylookseparated,butitjustneedstobestirred.Coconutmilkinacartonisthinnerandmoredrinkable,butitusuallycomessweetenedorflavoredwithahandfulofquestionableadditives.

Steel-cutoats,alsocalledIrishoats,arechunkypiecesofwholeoatkernels(oatgroats).Thesethickpiecestakelongertodigestandarelowerontheglycemicindexthanrolledoats,whichhavetogothroughmoreprocessingtogettheirflatshape.Steel-cutoatshavemoreproteinthanrolledoats,butbothvarietieshavethesamehighleveloffiberandarelight-yearsbetterthanthesugar-bombpacketsofinstantoats.

2cupssteel-cutoats½cupcannedwholeunsweetenedcoconutmilk½cupunsweetenedalmondmilk,plusmoreforserving1cinnamonstickLargepinchoffineseasalt

1Inalargepot,combinealltheingredientswith4cupswaterandbringtoaboil.Reducetheheattoasimmer,cover,andcookfor15minutes,stirringoccasionally,untiltheoatsarecookedthroughandcreamy.

2Transferthecookedoatsandcinnamonsticktoaglassstoragecontainerandletthemcoolbeforestoringinthefridge.

3Inthemorning,portionoutyouroatmeal(Idoabout¾cupperserving)andheatituponthestovewith¼cupalmondmilktothinitoutabit.

GLYCEMICINDEX&GLYCEMICLOADWhySlowandLowIsBestBreadismybiggestweakness,anditusedtobethefirstthingIateeveryday.Whetheritwasanartisanalloaforthecheap,slicedstuff,Iwasin.Mycravingforbreadwasmatchedonlybyafierceloveforpasta(heavendistilledintoafood).Iknewtheyweren’thealthyfoods,butIdidn’tknowtheyweremakingmeablood-sugartrainwreck.WhenIvisitedmydoctorcomplainingofslothlikefatigue,hepointedoutthatIwaseatingtoomuchwhiteflourandsugar—refinedcarbsthathavenofiberornutrients.Thiscausedmybloodsugartospikeandthendrasticallydip,cueingexhaustionandcravings.MybloodtestsconfirmedIwasprediabetic,basicallythelaststopontheroadtofull-blowntype2diabetes.

HadIlearnedabouttheGlycemicIndex(GI)andGlycemicLoad(GL)alotsooner,Icouldhavestartedchoosingbetter-qualitycarbs.Carbohydratesarebasicallylongchainsofglucose(sugar)molecules,whichyourdigestivesystembreaksdownandreleasesintoyourbloodstreamtobeusedforenergy.Byrankinghowhighandhowquicklycarbohydrate-containingfoodsraiseyourbloodsugarlevel,boththeGIandGLhelpyoufigureoutthebestcarbstoeatandmakeitmucheasiertocontrolyourbloodsugar,manageyourweight,andkeepyourbodyhummingalongwithasteady(ratherthanspiking)supplyofenergy.

TheGIscaleis0to100:Foodsunder55arelowGI,between56and69aremedium,andabove70arehigh.ThehighertheGIranking,thequickerthatfoodcansendyouintoawildsugarrushfollowedbyanexhaustingcrash.Youcaneasilypickthosefoodsoutofalineup—whitebread,whitepasta,Frenchfries,potatochips,soda,candy.Whenyouregularlyconsumetoomanyservingsofhigh-GIfoodslikeIdid,you’remorelikelytopackonpoundsandincreaseyourriskofdevelopinginsulinresistanceandtype2diabetes(seemoreonhowthisworks).Thelowerafood’sGIranking,thelongerittakestobreakdowninyourgut,resultinginaslow-and-steadydripofglucoseintoyourbloodstream.ChoosingcomplexcarbswithlowGI—almostallvegetables,mostfruits,andsomebeansandgrains—isespeciallycrucialatbreakfastsoyousetoffwithasteadysupplyofenergyfortheday.Thesefoodsalsotendtobehigherinfiber,keepingyoufullerlonger.

ByusingtheGIasageneralguide,Istartedswappinginlow-GIalternativesformyusualcrew.Ireplacedrefinedandwhiteflourbreadswithwhole-grainbreads,likethesourdoughryebreadIuseintheBreakfastSandwiches.Ichosenutsinsteadofpotatochips,wholewheatpastainsteadofwhiteflourpasta.Simplybychoosinglower-GIfoods,Ireversedmyprediabeticstateandcamebacktonormalbloodsugarlevelsinjustamatterofmonths.(SeethechartdetailingthewholescaleoftheGI/GLindex.)

Butofcoursetherearesomehead-scratcherswithintheindex.TheGIvaluesforwatermelonandcarrotsarehigh,andspaghettihasalowerGIthanbrownrice.Thisfliesinthefaceofallcommonsense.Thesolution?TheGlycemicLoad,arelativelynewmeasurementthatfactorsinakeypieceofinformationthattheGIdoesn’t:theamountofcarbohydratesinarealisticportionofthefood.Let’susewatermelonasanexample.Thecarbohydratesinwatermelonquicklyturnintosugar,soit’shighontheglycemicindexat

72.Butanaverageservingsizeofwatermelondoesn’thavemanycarbohydrates;youwouldhavetopracticallygorgeonthestufftogetarapidriseinbloodsugar.SothankstotheGL,foodslikewatermelon,carrots,andcantaloupeareclearedoftheirformerbad-for-blood-sugarreputation.AGLof10orlessislow,11to19ismedium,20ormoreishigh.Inareal-lifeportionsizeofwatermelon(½cup),theGLvalueis4,makingitlowglycemic.

Ultimately,bothindexesareuseful.TheGlycemicIndexhelpsyouchoosebetter-qualitycarbs,andtheGlycemicLoadguidesyoutoreasonableportionsizes.I’vefoundthebeststrategyistousethemtogether:familiarizeyourselfwithwherethingsfallonthescaleandtrytosticktomostlylow-andmedium-GIandGLfoods,onlydabblinginhigh.Atbreakfast,thismeansgoingforsteel-cutoatsinsteadofinstantoatmeal,muffinsorpancakesmadeofwhole-grainflourratherthanwhiteflour,andwholefruitinsteadofjustfruitjuice.AgreatreferenceformoreinformationontheglycemicindexandglycemicloadisTheNewGlucoseRevolutionbyJennieBrand-Miller.

Themostnoticeabledifferencefrommyhigh-GIcarbfrenzytonowismyenergylevel.I’mnolongerdraggingaroundinafogofexhaustion.Mytasteshavealsochanged—Inowcravethenuttierwhole-grainbreadsratherthanwhateverIcangetmyhandson.Before,Iwascaughtinaloopof“Ican’tgetnosatisfaction”whenitcametobread.Now,bykeepingmybloodsugarsteadywiththehelpoflow-GIeating,I’verealizedalevelofsatisfactionfromfoodthatIwascompletelymissingoutonbefore.

THEGLYCEMICINDEX&GLYCEMICLOADVALUES

GI:Lowis1–55,mediumis56–69,andhighis70–100GL:Lowis1–10,mediumis11–19,andhighis20andabove

FOOD GIVALUE GLVALUEGrapefruit 25 3Cashews 27 3Chickpeas 28 8Lentils 29 5Apple 38 6

Wholemilk 41 5Grapes 46 8Spaghetti 46 22Orange 48 5

Brownrice 50 16Banana 52 14Quinoa 53 13

Steel-cutoats 55 13Sweetcorn 60 20

Sweetpotato 61 17Whiterice 64 23

Instantoatmeal 66 17Cranberryjuice 68 24Watermelon 72 4Popcorn 72 7Cornflakes 81 21

Bakedrussetpotato 85 26

NO-COOKOVERNIGHTOATSSERVES1Ifyouneedinstantgratificationinthemorning,thisisyourbreakfast(sononeedtomakeabigbatchasyouwouldwiththesteel-cutoats).Beforegoingtobed,takeaminutetomixrolledoatswithmilk,chiaseeds,abitofcinnamonandginger,andsomemashedbananafornaturalsweetness.Overnight,theoatssoftenandabsorbthemilk,whilethechiaseedsworktheirgel-formingactiontothickenthewholemixture.Inthemorning,youhaveathick,voluminousbowloflightlyspicedandsweetenedoatsthatareespeciallygreatcoldorroomtemperature(thoughyoucanheatitupifcoldoatsaren’tyourthing).Ithinkofitasahigh-fiber,high-protein“summerporridge.”Berrieswithslicedalmondsorcoconutflakeswithalmondbutteraremyfavoritetoppingcombos,butwhateverfruit,nuts,ornutbutteryoulikewouldbegood.Chiaseedsareoneofthehealth-nutingredienttrendsthatreallyliveuptothehype.NativetoCentralAmericaandMexico,just1tablespoonofthesesmallwondersdeliversahealthydoseofcompleteprotein,fiber,andomega-3fattyacids.Chiaseedshaveaneutralflavor,soyoucanworktheminanywhere.

½cupold-fashionedrolledoats1tablespoonchiaseeds½teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoongroundgingerPinchoffineseasalt1cupunsweetenedalmondmilk,plusasplashforserving½ripebanana,mashedFruits,nuts,ornutbutterforserving

1Inabowl,stirtogethertheoats,chiaseeds,cinnamon,ginger,andsalt.Pourinthealmondmilk,andstirinthemashedbanana.Refrigerateovernight.

2Inthemorning,stirinasplashofalmondmilktoloosenthingsupandaddwhatevertoppingsyoulike.

HIGH-PROTEINOVERNIGHTOATSSERVES1Stirringplainfull-fatGreekyogurtintotheovernightmixturemakesforextracreamyoatswithanadditionaldoseofprotein.Togiveitachocolatepuddingvibe,I’lloccasionallystiratablespoonofcacaopowderintotheovernightmixture.BothGreekyogurtandregularyogurthaveprobiotics,thegoodbacteria(the“liveandactivecultures”referredtoonthepackage)thatcontributetoahealthydigestivesystem.ThankstothelongerstrainingandfilteringprocessGreekyogurtgoesthrough,ithaslesssugarandalmostdoubletheamountofprotein.NotallGreekyogurtsarecreatedequal,though.Chooseplaintoavoidtheadditionofevaporatedcanejuice,whichishardlybetterthanplainoldwhitesugar.

½cupold-fashionedrolledoats1tablespoonchiaseeds½teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoongroundgingerPinchoffineseasalt⅔cupunsweetenedalmondmilk,plusasplashforserving½cupfull-fatplainGreekyogurt1½teaspoonsmaplesyruporhoneyFruit,nuts,ornutbutter,forserving

1Inabowl,stirtogethertheoats,chiaseeds,cinnamon,ginger,andsalt.Addthealmondmilk,yogurt,andmaplesyrupandstiruntilthoroughlycombined.Refrigerateovernight.

2Inthemorning,stirinasplashofalmondmilktoloosenthingsupandaddwhatevertoppingsyoulike.

BUCKWHEATGROATSWITHAPRICOTSANDALMONDSSERVES1Ahot,velvetyporridgeofbuckwheatgroatsisagreatalternativetooatmeal.It’spreparedwiththesamebasicprocess,butbuckwheathasamorepronouncedearthy,nuttyflavor,andthetriangle-shapedgroatsgivetheporridgeaspectacular,chewytexture.Tossinginchiaseedsaddsaboostoffiberandhealthyfats.Freshapricotsarebest,butwhenthey’renotinseasonyoucansubstitutedriedapricots.Whenusingdried,addthemhalfwaythroughthegroatscooking,sotheyhavetimetosoften.Despiteitsgrainliketendencies,buckwheatisactuallytheseedofaplantsimilartorhubarb,notatypeofwheat.Atthestore,you’llfinditinitshulledformasbuckwheatgroats(calledkasha,ifthey’retoasted)orgroundintobuckwheatflour.It’sgluten-freeandhighinfiber.Comparedtorice,wheat,andcorn,buckwheathasmoreproteinandislowerontheglycemicscale,soyourbloodsugarlevelsdon’tgoonawildride.

⅓cupwhole,rawbuckwheatgroatsFineseasalt2freshapricots,quartered2tablespoonssliveredalmonds1tablespoonchiaseeds1tablespoonhoney

1Inasmallpot,combinethebuckwheat,⅔cupwater,andapinchofsaltandbringtoaboil.Reducetheheattoasimmer,cover,andcookuntilthegroatsaretender,about12minutes.Turnofftheheat.

2Addtheapricots,almonds,chiaseeds,andhoney.Foldeverythingtogether,cover,andletsituntiltheapricotssoften,3to5minutes.

Clockwisefrombottom:old-fashionedrolledoats,steel-cutoats,andwholebuckwheatgroats.

SPINACHSCRAMBLEDEGGSSERVES1Thisismyyear-round,easy,too-tired-to-think-but-I’m-in-a-rush-and-gotta-eat-somethingbreakfast.Evenwhenwe’redowntothelastdregsoffoodbeforeagrocerytrip,wealwayshavegarlic,frozenspinach,andeggsaround.It’snotthefastestbreakfastintheworldbyAmerica’scurrentstandards(ofgrabbingadonutordumpingmilkovercereal),butit’sprettydamnfastandabouttentimesashealthy.Inabout5minutes,you’vegotsomethinghot,delicious,andgoodforyou.

1tablespoonextravirginoliveoil1garlicclove,thinlysliced2extra-largeeggsFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper¾cupfrozenchoppedspinachAnycheeseyoulike,forserving(optional)

1Inacold10-inchskillet,combinetheoliveoilandgarlic,thenturntheheattomedium-high.Cookthegarlicjustlongenoughtoheatthrough,1to1½minutes.Whisktheeggsinabowlandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

2Whenthegarlicstartstosizzle,addthefrozenspinach.Tosswiththeoilandgarlicuntilthespinachisfullycoated.Coverthepanfor30secondstothawthespinach,thenseasonwithsaltandpepper.

3Pourtheeggsoverthespinachandcookforabout15seconds.Stirbymovingasiliconespatulaacrossthebottomofthepan,flippingtheeggsastheycook.Continuemovingandflippinguntiltheeggsaresoftwithoutanyrunnyparts,about2minutes(longerifyoulikefirmer,driereggs).

4Transfertoaplateandwhiletheeggsaresteaming,grateorcrumbleanycheeseyoulikeovertheeggs.

EGGSIntheworldofdietarymyths,theremaybenonebiggerthantheoneabouteggs,skyrocketingthecholesterolofanyonewhoeatstheoccasionalomelet.Maybeyou’veavoidedthem,orchosentoeatonlyeggwhitesoreggsubstitutes.Butthereisnothinginherentlybadabouteggs:They’reactuallyoneofthemostperfectfoods.Currentresearchsuggeststhereislittletonoconnectionbetweendietarycholesterolandhigherlevelsofbloodcholesterolinhumans.I’manadvocateofeatingwholeeggs:Theyolkhouseshalftheproteinand

almostallofthevitaminA,goodfat,andironandtheflavor.EggsarealsooneofthefewfoodsthatoffervitaminD,anessentialvitaminthatmostpeoplearedeficientin.Themostimportantfactortoconsiderwhenbuyingeggsisthesource,ideallyfrompasture-raisedchickens,notfactoryfarms(seethedifference).Ibuylocal,pasture-raisedeggsororganiceggswheneverpossiblesincethosechickenswereabletoroamfreelywithouttheneedforantibioticsbecausethey’reeatinganaturaldiet.Thedeep,darkyellowoftheyolksandstiffjelly-likewhitescarrysignificantlymoreflavorandnutritionalbenefitsthanregulareggs.

Hard-BoiledEggs

HARD-BOILEDEGGSIalwayskeephard-boiledeggsaround.Talkaboutaquick,portablebreakfastorsnack—justpeelandeat.Ialsoliketochopthemandtossthemintogreensalads,wherethecookedyolksaddasilkyrichness.Hard-boiledeggsareeasytoovercook.Thetelltalesignisthatgross,greenish-grayringaroundtheyolk:Whilethetasteisn’taffected,thetextureisshottohell.Avoidthatbybringingtheeggstoaboilgentlyandusingyourkitchentimer.Withthemethodhere,Igetperfecthard-boiledeggseverytime.

1Puttheeggsinasinglelayerinapotandfillitwithcoldwater,coveringtheeggsbyaninchorso.Bringthewatertoaboilovermedium-highheat.

2Whenthewaterstartsboiling,takethepotofftheheat,cover,andletitsitfor10minutes.

3Cooldowntheeggs.Youcanuseaspoontogetthemoutofthepotandintoabowlwithicewater,orpourthehotwateroutofthepotandfillwithcoldwater.

BRAISEDGREENSWITHSUNNYSIDE-UPEGGSSERVES1Thisisanothervariationononeofmyfavoritebreakfastsofgreensandeggs.It’saone-pandealandcanbereadyin5minutesifyoumakethegreensaheadoftimeinabigbatch.Justreheatthegreensinthepan,thenpickupwithstep3intherecipe.IusuallyhavecookedTuscankaleonhand(akalacinatokaleordinosaurkale),butanyvarietyofsturdygreensworkswellhere,includingcurlykale,Swisschard,mustardgreens,andcollardgreens.Idon’trecommendusingfreshspinach—itshighwatercontentleadstowateryeggs.

1tablespoonplus1teaspoonextravirginoliveoil½smallwhiteonion,thinlysliced1smallgarlicclove,thinlyslicedFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper2cupspackedTuscankaleleaves,stemsandcenterribsremoved2extra-largeeggs

1Ina10-inchskillet,heat1tablespoonoftheoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheonion,garlic,andapinchofsalt.Cookuntiltheonionsaresoftandtranslucent,about5minutes.

2Addthegreensandanotherpinchofsalt.Stirwelltocoatthegreenswiththeoilandonions.Reducetheheattomedium,coverthepan,andcookfor8minutes,stirringeverycoupleofminutes,untilthekaleisverytender.Ifyounoticethegreensstarttolookdry,addateaspoonofwater.

3Reducetheheattolowandmakeawellinthecenterofthepanbypushingthegreenstotheedges.Addtheremaining1teaspoonoiltothewellandcracktheeggsoverit.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,coverthepan,andcookuntilthewhitesoftheeggsareset,about3minutes.

MontecastelliEggs

MONTECASTELLIEGGSSERVES4ThisdishisinspiredbyanincrediblymemorablemomentfromMontecastelli,a1,000-year-oldrestoredvillainTuscanywhereIleadaweeklongcookingclasseveryJuly.Thevillaisafoodparadisewithsprawlingvegetableandherbgardens,apastureofpigsandchickens,andanolivegroveof3,000trees.Theowner,JensSchmidt,builtasmallbottlingplantsohe’sabletoharvest,press,andbottleoliveoilinlessthan48hours.It’sthefreshest,mostamazingoliveoil,withthenicegrassinessandintensepepperyheatthatTuscanoilsarefamousfor.ThefirsttimeIvisited,Jensmademeadishthatshowcasedhisoil:Hesautéedfreshkale,kohlrabi,andleeks,crackedaneggoverthem,batheditallintheoliveoil,andbakedit.Itwasasimple,beautiful,insanelyrichdishthatspoketoeverythingMontecastellihastooffer.NowImakeitasaweekendbreakfastorwhenwehavefriendsoverforbrunch.Ilikeusingkaleherebecauseitdoesn’treleaseliquidthewayspinachandSwisscharddo.Don’tletkohlrabi’salien-lookingexteriorputyouoff—ittasteslikeamild,sweetturnipandaddsalightcrunchtothisotherwisesoft,silkyeggdish.

¾cupplus2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil1garlicclove,thinlysliced2smallleeks,whiteandpalegreenpartsonly,thinlysliced,washed1bunchredRussiankale,stemsandcenterribsremoved,leaveschopped(about2packedcups)1largekohlrabibulb,peeled,halved,andthinlyslicedFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper4extra-largeeggs

1Preheattheovento300°F.

2Inacoldlargeskillet,combine2tablespoonsoftheoil,thegarlic,andleeks,thenturntheheattohigh.Cookfor2minutes,stirringtocoatthegarlicandleeksinoil,thenreducetheheattomedium.Continuecookingforanother3minutestosoftentheleeks.Stirinthekale,kohlrabi,apinchofsaltandseveralgrindsofpepper.Coverthepanandcookfor5minutes,stirringoccasionally.(Youwantthekaleandkohlrabitocookdown,buttheydon’thavetobecompletelysoft.Alittletextureisgoodhere.)

3Dividethevegetablesevenlyamongfour(12-ounce)ramekins.Topeachpileofvegetableswith2tablespoonsoliveoil.Crackaneggintoeachramekinandtopeacheggwith1tablespoonoliveoilandapinchofsaltandpepper.

4Settheramekinsinalarge,straight-sidedpan(aroastingpanorcasseroledishwillworkfine)andfillthepanwithwateruntilit’shalfwayupthesidesoftheramekins.Coverthepanlooselywithfoilandbakefor35minutes,oruntilthewhitesaresetandtheyolksarewarmandrunny.Servetheramekinsatthetable.

AppleWalnutSpiceMuffins

APPLEWALNUTSPICEMUFFINSMAKES12MUFFINSTomydaughterStella,thesemuffinsareworthyofthesameexcitementasasetofnewcoloredpencilsoranythingcoveredinglitter.(That’shighpraisefromaseven-year-oldgirl.)Allshecaresaboutisthatthey’refingerfoodandshapedlikeacupcake.Ilikethatthesemuffinsaretenderandmoistwithalightsweetnessthatsneaksthroughthedeeperflavorofthewarmspices.Also,thevaryingtextureyougetfromthewalnutsandthecombinationofgratedappleandchoppedapplekeepthemuffininterestinglongafterthefirstfewbites.Iuseryeandoatfloursbecausethey’relowerontheglycemicindexthanwhiteflour,andtheyaddaheartinessthatI’mlookingforinthemorning,especiallyinthefallandwinterwhenwehavetheseasgrab‘n’gobreakfasts.Eachonegetsasmearofalmondbutterandwe’reoutthedoor.

Allnutshavegoodfat,protein,andfiber,butwalnutsareconsideredthemostheart-healthybecausetheyhavemoreomega-3fattyacidsandahigherlevelofantioxidantsthanothercommonlyeatennuts.Itonlytakesahandfuladaytogetthebenefits,sohaveafewrawonesalongwithyourmuffin.

Unsaltedbutter,forgreasingthemuffintin1cupryeflour1cupoatflour⅓cupgroundflaxseed1tablespoongroundcinnamon1teaspoongroundginger½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg¼teaspoongroundcloves1teaspoonbakingsodaPinchoffineseasalt3mediumGalaapples1extra-largeegg,beaten½cupfull-fatplainGreekyogurt½cupchoppedwalnutsplus12walnuthalves¼cupextravirginoliveoil1tablespoonunsulfuredblackstrapmolasses½cuphoney

1Preheattheovento325°F.Butterastandard12-cupmuffintin.

2Inalargebowl,mixtheflours,flaxseed,cinnamon,ginger,nutmeg,cloves,bakingsoda,andsaltuntilthey’rewellcombined.

3Choponeoftheapplesintoasmalldice.Gratetheremaining2applesonaboxgrater

intoabowl.Addthedicedapples,egg,yogurt,choppedwalnuts,oliveoil,molasses,andhoneyandwhisktogether.

4Addthewetingredientstotheflourmixtureandstiruntilthey’rejustcombined.Dividethebatterevenlyamongthemuffincups;thefillingshouldbealmostlevelwiththetopofthetin.Lightlypressawalnuthalfintothemiddleofeachmuffin.

5Bakeuntiltheedgesaregoldenbrownandatoothpickinsertednearthewalnutcomesoutclean,28to30minutes.Letthemuffinscoolinthepanfor5minutes,thentakethemouttofinishcoolingonawirerack.

CORNANDBLUEBERRYMUFFINSMAKES12MUFFINSInthesummerwhenthemarketisburstingwithblueberries,setasidesomeofyourbountytomakethesemuffins.Theyhaveadistinctive,butnotoverwhelming,cornflavorthatplayswellwithsweetblueberriesandthepepoflemonzest.There’snoexactsciencebehindthecombinationofflourshere—wetendtokeepawidevarietyonhandandItoyaroundwithdifferentcombinations.Ifoundthatthethicker,high-fiberflourslikecoconutandwholewheatworkbestwiththelight,smoothtextureofcornflour(nottobeconfusedwithcornmealorcornstarch).Freshblueberriesarethepreferredwaytogowiththis,butfrozenberrieswillwork.

Unsaltedbutter,forgreasingthemuffintin1cupcornflour¼cupcoconutflour¾cupwholewheatflourGratedzestof1lemon2cupsblueberries1teaspoonbakingpowder½teaspoonbakingsodaPinchoffineseasalt2extra-largeeggs1¼cupsbuttermilk½teaspoonpurevanillaextract¼cupvirgincoconutoil½cupcoconutpalmsugar

1Preheattheovento325°F.Butterastandard12-cupmuffintin.

2Inalargebowl,combinetheflours,lemonzest,blueberries,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,andsalt.

3Inaseparatebowl,whisktogethertheeggs,buttermilk,vanilla,coconutoil,andcoconutsugar.Addthewetingredientstothedrymixture,andstiruntilthey’rejustcombined.Dividethebatterevenlyamongthemuffincups.

4Bake,untiltheedgesarelightbrownandatoothpickinsertedinthecenterofamuffincomesoutclean,for28to30minutes.Letthemuffinscoolinthepanfor5minutes,thentakethemouttofinishcoolingonawirerack.

AMANDA’SBREADMAKES1LOAFI’mnotfanaticalaboutavoidinggluten,butwetendtokeepittoaminimumathomebecausemywifefindsshefeelsbetterwithoutit.Thefrozen,gluten-freebricksatthestoreareasorryexcuseforbread,sothroughsometrialanderror(inevitablewhenbakingwithoutwheatflour),wecameupwithasimplerecipethatyieldsamoist,tenderloaf.It’sdense,butnotheavy,andthemildflavorofalmondsgivesthebreadversatilityforanysweetorsavorytoppingsyouwanttothrowonit.Iloveittoastedwithblueberryjam.Thebatterwillseemverywet.Resistthetemptationtogiveitmoreflour—thatwillputyourbreadindry,crumblyterritory.

Manypeopleseethegluten-freelabelonfoodsandassumethismeansthey’reinherentlyhealthy,butgluten-freeproductsareoftenheavilyprocessedandloadedwithaddedstarches(manyintheformofsimplecarbs),sugars,andchemicaladditives.Unlessyouhaveceliacdiseaseorglutensensitivity,you’rebetteroffstickingwithminimallyprocessedwhole-grainfoods.I’vefoundthatbyeatingmostlywhole,realfoods,Inaturallyeatlessgluten—theonlyplaceIgetitisviawholegrainsandflourslikefarro,rye,andspelt.

1½cupsalmondflour2tablespoonscoconutflour¼cupgroundflaxseedPinchoffineseasalt1½teaspoonsbakingsoda5largeeggs,atroomtemperature¼cupextravirginoliveoil,plusmoreforthepan1tablespoonchestnuthoney(oranydark-huedhoney)1tablespoonapplecidervinegar

1Preheattheovento350°F.Lightlycoata9×5-inchnonstickloafpanwitholiveoil.

2Inafoodprocessor,combinetheflours,groundflaxseed,salt,andbakingsoda.Pulseuntiltheingredientscometogether.Addtheeggs,oliveoil,honey,andvinegarandpulseuntilthewetingredientsarethoroughlycombinedwiththedry.

3Scrapethebatterintothepanandbakeuntilatoothpickinsertedintothecenteroftheloafcomesoutclean,35to40minutes.Letitcoolinthepan.

Soft-BoiledEggandWhiteAnchovyBreakfastSandwiches

SOFT-BOILEDEGGANDWHITEANCHOVYBREAKFASTSANDWICHESMAKES2SANDWICHESLikeanygoodNewYorker,Ihaveasoftspotfortheclassicbacon-egg-and-cheese-on-a-rollbreakfastsandwich.It’stheperfectlittlehandheldmealwhenyouwantsomethingfastandfilling.Theprocessedcheese,conventionalbacon,andwhitebreadtheyuseatthecornerdeliaren’taregularpartofmyprogramanymore,sobreakfastsandwichesaremoreofahomemadethingformenow.Arunny,soft-cookedeggsmashedontoastandtoppedwithsalty,tartwhiteanchoviestastesincredibleandfeelsprettyextravagant,althoughit’sjustahandfulofingredients—exactlywhatabreakfastsandwichshouldbe.

I’malwaysonthelookoutforwhole-grainbreadoptions,andmylatestfindisNordicBreads’FinnishRuis—ryeflatbreadsmadefrom100percentwhole-grainryeandasourdoughstarter.They’resoldinperfectsandwich-sizeroundsthatwekeepinthefreezerandpopinthetoaster.ChickpeaCrepesalsoworkwellforwrappingupafastbreakfast;sodoesAmanda’sBreadforlightweightfillingssuchasalmondbutterandjam.

2largeeggs1FinnishRuisbread,1Englishmuffin,or2slicesregularbread2tablespoonschoppedfreshparsley6whiteanchovyfilletsFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Fillapotabouthalfwaywithwaterandbringittoaboiloverhighheat.Usealargespoontolowertheeggsintheirshellsintothewateroneatatime.Reducetheheattomedium-highandcooktheeggsfor6to7minutes—6minutesforarunnieryolkand7minutesforatighter,thickeryolk.Whiletheeggsarecooking,toastthebread.

2Whentheeggsarecooked,removethemfromtheheatimmediatelyandgentlyruncoldtapwateroverthemuntilthey’recoolenoughtobehandled.Carefullycracktheeggswithalighttapandpeelthemlikehard-boiledeggs.

3Useaforktomash1eggoneachpieceoftoastedbread.Topeacheggwithasprinkleofparsleyand3anchovyfillets,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Moreofmyfavoritebreakfastsandwichcombinationstotry:

•Sunny-sideupegg,sliceofcheddar,sliceoftomato,flakyseasalt

•Crushedhard-boiledeggwitholiveoilandaspoonfulofleftovercookedgreens•SlicedCuredSalmonwithredonionandcapers

•Salt-curedanchoviesandbutter

•Slicedavocado,balsamicvinegar,flakyseasalt•Almondbutterandappleorpearslices

•Crunchypeanutbutterwithfork-smashedberries

•Slicedbananasandrawhoney•Grass-fedbutterandanytypeofjam

•LeftoverpiecesofHerb-RoastedSpatchcockChickenwithasmearofavocadoandsliceoftomato

BlueberryandBuckwheatButtermilkPancakes

BLUEBERRYANDBUCKWHEATBUTTERMILKPANCAKESMAKES10TO12PANCAKESSundaymorningsareallaboutpancakesinmyhouse.Wedon’tstrayfromblueberryoften,butweexperimentwithallkindsofflourcombinations.Thismixofwholewheat,corn,andbuckwheatfloursdeliversexactlywhatIwantinapancake:hearty,slightlynuttyflavorandalight,airytexture.Withmorefiberfromwholegrains,thesearesignificantlybetterforyouandmoresatisfyingthanthepatheticallythin,processedwhiteflour,nutritionallyvoidpancakes.Thebattershouldbethickandonthelumpyside:smoothbattermakestoughpancakes.Cornmealisnotthesamethingascornflourandwillgiveyourpancakesagrittytexturealongthelinesofcornbread.

1cupwholewheatflour½cupbuckwheatflour½cupcornflour1teaspoonbakingsoda1teaspoonbakingpowder½teaspoonfineseasalt2cupsbuttermilk¼cupwholemilk1extra-largeegg¼cupvirgincoconutoilUnsaltedbutter,forthepan¾cupfrozenwildblueberries,thawedMaplesyrup,forserving

1Inalargebowl,stirtogethertheflours,bakingsoda,bakingpowder,andsalt.Inaseparatebowl,whisktogetherthebuttermilk,wholemilk,andegg.Thenwhiskinthecoconutoil.Addthewetingredientstothedryandmixuntiljustcombined.(Thebatterwillbeverythick,sodon’tworryaboutsmalllumps.)

2Heatalargeskilletorgriddleoverhighheatandaddasmallpatofbutter.Whenthebuttermeltsandgoesbrown,pourin⅓cupofthepancakebatter.Sprinkle1tablespoonfrozenblueberriesontopandpressthemintothebatter.Cookuntilbubblesformonthesurfaceandtheedgesharden,1to2minutes.Flipandcookuntilthebottomisgolden,about1½minutes.Transferthepancaketoaplateandcoverittokeepwarm.

3Repeatwiththeremainingbatter,addingmorebuttertothepanwhenneeded.Servethepancakeswarmwithmaplesyrup.

SALADS

THERE’SNOBETTERVEHICLETHANasaladforpackingarangeofflavors,textures,proteins,goodfats,andavarietyofvegetablesintoonemeal.So,whydosomanypeoplethinksaladsareabore,orasidedishtobeeatenoutofobligation?Forstarters,thedietfoodconnotationisaturnoff.Itbringsupimagesofpathetic“gardensalads,”wilted,brownishiceberglettucegarnishedwithaslabofunder-ripetomatoandlimpcucumberslices.Whenyoustarttorethinkwhatasaladcanbe,thingsgetexciting—youstarttocravethem.Tomakesaladsappealinginthelongrun,youhavetoventurebeyondthe

standardbowloflettuceleaves.Asaladcanbejustaboutanycombinationofvegetables,meat,fish,beans,orgrainsboundtogetherbyacidity(citrus,vinegar,picklingliquid)andgoodfat(usuallyextravirginoliveoil,occasionallybaconfatorduckfat).Givethetried-and-truefoundationofleafygreensafewgoodsidekicks,andyougetawidervarietyofnutrientsthatalsokeepyourhungerpangsquietlonger.IpreferhardygreenslikeTuscankale,escarole,dandeliongreens,andspinachasabasebecausetheystanduptodressing.Besideshavingaho-humnutritionalprofile,icebergandromainelettucehavehighwatercontentandoftenleadtothetragedythatissoggysalads.Inevitably,you’llneedabreakfromleafygreens.AsIeatsaladsalotmore

frequentlynow,thishappenstometoo.That’swhenIbreakoutmysimplemandolineslicerandbuildasaladwithpaper-thincoinsandribbonsoffirmrawvegetables.Oneofmyfavoritesisthebright,massivelycrunchyShavedFennel,Celery,RedOnion,andParsleySalad.Thismethodworksequallywellwithrawasparagus,beets,turnips,onions,carrots,kohlrabi,radishes,artichokes,zucchini,cucumbers,andcauliflower.Anotherwaytokeepthingsinterestingistoplaywithtemperature.TheWarm

VegetableSaladshowsthebeautyofoneofmysimplego-totechniquesforrampingupflavorinsalads:dressingthingswhilethey’rehot.Vegetables’poresopenupasyoucookthem,allowingthemtotakeonmoreflavorbydrinkinginoliveoil,vinegar,andsalt.Temperaturecontrastkeepsmecomingbacktosalads:thejuicypopoforangesegmentsintheRoastedBeetSaladandthehotcaramelizedfennelintheSpinachSaladwithRoastedFennelgivetheseotherwisesimpledishesmorecharacteranddepthofflavor.Everyforkfulisadifferentexperience.Withouttherightcombinationofoilandvinegarandproperseasoningto

punctuatetheflavors,evenasaladofthefreshestseasonalingredientsandrock-solidcombinationoftexturesandtemperatureswillfallflat.Theperky,well-balancedvinaigrettesherewilldoyoursaladjustice:Eachoneisversatileenoughtobecomeyourhousedressing.I’mpartialtosimplydressingasaladinthebowlit’sservedin.IgiveitaglugofwhatevervinegarI’minthemoodfor(usuallyredwinevinegar),adrizzleofextravirginoliveoil,andasprinklingofsaltandpepper,andhand-tossitall.Ican’ttellyouhowmanypeopleI’vemadesaladsforovertheyearscommented,“Wow,thisissodelicious!Howdidyou

makethevinaigrette?”Justvinegar,salt,pepper,andoil—nowhiskingnecessary.Ifyouusethisapproach,alwaysaddthevinegarandsaltbeforetheoil.Otherwise,theoilcoatseverythingandactsasabarrier,preventingthesaltfromdissolvingandthevinegarfromminglingwiththeotherflavors.Awordonprocessedsaladdressings:don’t.Mostofthemaredullglopfilled

withpreservatives,high-fructosecornsyrup,salt,andbadfatfromcanolaorsoybeanoil.There’snowaytojustifybuyingthemwhenit’ssoeasy(andmoreaffordable)toshakeupafewqualityingredientsinajarorusemyon-the-flymethodofdressing.

VINAIGRETTESAgoodvinaigretteseasons,addsmoisture,brightensflavors,andbringsalltheelementsofasaladintunewitheachother.Theratioofoiltoacidisthemainconsideration.Idon’tknowwhat

vinaigretteoverlordcameupwiththestandardratioof3:1,butIfindittobecompletenonsense.Thetasteforacidity(fromthingslikevinegarandcitrus)islikethetasteforsalt—there’snoformula,it’swhattastesrighttoyou.So,theratioisreallyapersonalpreference.Also,aciditylevelsvarywidelyamongdifferenttypesofvinegar.Somesherryvinegarsareintenselyacidic,whilesomemildbalsamicvinegarsouttherebarelyhaveanyacidity.Asuccessfulratioofoiltoacidalsodependsontheingredientsinthesaladyou’redressing.Forexample,inasaladwithstarcheslikepotatoesorbeans,youwilllikelywantahigherproportionofvinegartobrightentheirheavierflavor.Ilikesaladswithabiteofacidfromlotsoflemonjuiceandvinegar.Ifyoufindanyofthevinaigrettesinthissectiontobetootart,feelfreetoaddmoreoil—followyourtastebuds,notaformula.I’mallforaslittlecleanupaspossible,soImakesaladdressingsinleftover

glassjars.Thatway,Icanjustscrewthelidonandshakeitup,ratherthanpulloutabowlandwhisk.Vinaigrettescanbestoredintherefrigeratorforabout5days,soIrecommendmakingabatchortwoeachweek.Iftheoliveoilhardensinthefridge,bringittoroomtemperaturebyrunningsomewarmwaterovertheoutsideofthejar,andgiveitafewgoodshakesbeforeusing.

THEPOWEROFALKALINEFOODS(akaWhatILearnedfromMyBigToe)“Gout?Seriously?”Iwascompletelythrownbymydoctor’sdiagnosis.I’dheardgoutridiculedasthe“diseaseofkings,”somethingonlygluttonousfatdudes(likeHenryVIII)got.Sure,Ihadrecurringfootpain,mostlyinmyheelsandbigtoe,butIchalkedituptolonghoursattherestaurant.AndIknewmydietwasafarcryfromthepictureofhealth,but…gout?!It’sanotherlessononthelistofthingsI’velearnedthehardway.

Goutisaninflammatoryconditioncausedbyacrazy-highlevelofuricacidinthebody.Theexcessuricacidformscrystalsthatcollectinjointsandcausepainfulswelling.Burgersanddelimeats,aswellasyeast-filledbreadandbeer,arehighinacompoundcalledpurine,andpurinebreaksdownintouricacidinthebody.It’snormaltohaveasupplyofuricacid,butwhenthere’stoomuch,yourkidneyscan’teliminateitfastenough,anditstartsbuildingupinplacesitshouldn’t.Themoreofthosepurine-richfoodsIate,themoreuricacidaccumulatedinmyjoints,andthemoremybigtoehurt.Tothrowitinreverse,Ihadtostarteatingfoodsthatwouldreducemyinflammation.

Diggingintowhatthismeantformyday-to-dayeatinghabits,Icameacrossthetheoryofthealkalinediet.Thetheoryisthatloadinguponalkaline-formingfoodsandlimitingacid-formingfoodshelpsyourbodyreduceinflammationbymaintainingtheidealpHbalanceforpeakhealth.Whymorealkalinefoods?ThetypicalAmericandiet,withallitsmeat,refinedsugar,caffeine,andprocessedfoods,dumpsasteadystreamofacidintoyourblood,soyouneedmorefoodsthatarealkaline,theoppositeofacidic,tobalancethingsout.Otherwise,youroverlyacidicbodymayresorttomaintainingpHbalancebypilferingitsownstoreofminerals,makingyoumorevulnerabletochronicinflammationanddisease.

Takingcontrolofmyinflammation-inducedgoutledmetocurbmyhabitofbeerandmeat-filleddelisandwiches,andtofillinthoseholeswiththealkalinesuperstars,namelygreenvegetableslikekale,spinach,lettuces,anddandeliongreens,whichIuseinthesaladshere.Wheatgrassisthekingofalkalinefoods,butthealkaline-friendlyfoodsinregularrotationinmykitchenaretomatoes,squash,avocado,rootveggies,mostfruit—especiallycitrus—seeds,andsomenutsandlegumes.Thoughmeatandfishcanbeacidic,afewtimesaweekI’llhavegrass-fedbeefandwildsalmon,whicharehighinanti-inflammatoryomega-3fattyacids.

Thebeautyofthealkalineapproachisthatit’saboutbalance,soeatingamoderateamountofunrefinedacidicfoodsisstillokay.Mostoftherecommendationsyou’llfindsuggestthatatleast60percentofyourfoodsbealkaline-formingandnomorethan40percentbeacid-forming.Butsomefoodsdon’thavetotasteacidictoleadtoanacidpartyinyourbody.Forexample,asugar-ladenpastryisacid-forming,whileacidictastingfoodslikelemonsandvinegararealkaline-forming.Andthereareafewfoodsthatfitintoanalkalinediet,butdon’tworkforgout-sufferersbecausethey’rehighinpurines(lentils,forexample).Thismaysoundtricky,buttrustme,it’snot.Unlessyouhaveathrobbingbigtoerightnow,focusoncuttingbackonrefinedsugar,meat,andpackagedfoods,andmakeupforthemwithmoregreensandfruit,especiallycitrus.

Myexperiencewithinflammationandgoutmademeabelieverinthealkalineapproach.Ifeltnoticeablereliefwithinfourmonthsofchangingmydiet,andnowI’mgout-free.WhileIdon’tthinkthere’sonehealthydiettheorythat’sahomerunforeveryone,it’shardtopokeholesinastyleofeatingthatemphasizesfresh,plant-based,unprocessedfood.Evenifyoudon’tbuyintothepHaspect,eatingmorealkalinefoodswilldoyouright.

HONEY-CIDERVINAIGRETTEMAKESABOUT1⅓CUPSAnotherworkhorsevinaigrette,thisonelendsitselftosturdierlettuceslikeromaine,kale,redoak,andescarolethatcanholduptothehigherproportionofvinegarusedhere.

¼cupplus2tablespoonsapplecidervinegarSeveralpinchesoffineseasalt3tablespoonshoney¾cupextravirginoliveoil

Addalltheingredientstoascrew-topjar.Screwthelidontightlyandshakewelltocombine.

MAPLESYRUPVINAIGRETTEMAKESABOUT1CUPMaplesyrupbringsarichnesstothevinaigrettewhilemellowingoutthesharperflavorsoffreshgingerandvinegar.Thisplayswellwithwintrygreenslikeredoakleaflettuce,frisée,orwatercressmixedwiththinlyslicedappleorpear.It’salsoagreatpairingforheartyfallvegetableslikesweetpotatoes,carrots,turnips,andthoseintheMapleandSpice–RoastedAutumnSquash.

3tablespoonsapplecidervinegarPinchoffineseasalt3tablespoonsmaplesyrup1½teaspoonsgratedfreshginger⅔cupextravirginoliveoil

Addalltheingredientstoascrew-topjar.Screwthelidontightlyandshakewelltocombine.

SOY-GINGERVINAIGRETTEMAKESABOUT1CUPWhenIneedachangeofpacefromstandardvinaigrettes,thebig,boldAsianflavorsofsoy,ginger,andsesamecalltome.Thesaltinessofsoysaucecombinedwiththepungent,brightheatfromthegingeractslikeasparkplug,addingakicktoanythingyoudresswiththis.It’sagreatmatchforsturdygreenssuchasbokchoy(seeSteamedBlackBasswithBokChoy),escarole,romaine,andspinach,andcanbeusedasamarinadeforchicken,pork,orshrimp.Ialsoliketoaddaglugtoahotbowlofsweetbrownrice.

2tablespoonsricevinegar(limejuiceworksnicelytoo)2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice2teaspoonsgratedfreshginger¼cupsoysauce2teaspoonstoastedsesameoil½cupextravirginoliveoil

Addalltheingredientstoascrew-topjar.Screwthelidontightlyandshakewelltocombine.

HONEY-TANGERINEDRESSINGMAKESABOUT1CUPTangerinejuicereplacesvinegarinthisgreatsweet-tartdressing.Thejuicefromtangerinesandothercitrusfruitsissmootherandlessacidicthanmostvinegars,soIuseanequalproportionofjuicetooil.Tokeepthislightandbright,useafruityorfloralhoneyhere.Itpairsnicelywithsofter,butterylettuceslikeBibb,redleaf,andgreenleafvarieties.

½cupfreshtangerinejuicePinchoffineseasalt1tablespoonhoney½cupextravirginoliveoil

Addalltheingredientstoascrew-topjar.Screwthelidontightlyandshakewelltocombine.

FERMENTEDCARROTANDGINGERVINAIGRETTEMAKESABOUT1CUPFermentedcarrotsandgingerpulldoubledutyhere,addingalivelytartnesstothevinaigrette,alongwithahighlevelofdigestion-friendlynaturalprobiotics(seemoreonthese).Ifyoudon’thaveabatchoffermentedcarrotsandgingeronhand,use1cupshreddedregularcarrotsand1tablespoongratedfreshginger.

¾cupLacto-FermentedCarrotsandGinger1tablespoonmisopaste1tablespoontoastedsesameoil2tablespoonsbrownricevinegar1tablespoonsoysauceortamari½cupextravirginoliveoil

Inablender,combinethecarrotsandginger,miso,sesameoil,vinegar,andsoysauce.Whilepureeing,addtheoliveoilinasteadystreamuntilthevinaigretteissmooth.

TUSCANKALESALADWITHWHITEBEANSANDTUNASERVES4Iwasactuallyeatingkalelongbeforeitwasanointedthe“it”vegetable,mostlyintheItaliansoupsandstewsIgrewupon.ButIaddedrawTuscankaletotheclassiccombinationofcannellinibeans,tuna,andredonions.Ineverthoughtasaladcouldapproachcomfortfoodstatus,butthisoneissosatisfyingthatIcraveitregularly.Ipreferthedark,bumpyleavesofTuscankaletocurlyleafkaleforsaladsbecausetheyhaveamoredelicateflavorandtendertexture.It’sworthsplurgingfortheimportedItalianorSpanishtunapackedinextravirginoliveoil.They’reinfinitelymoreflavorfulthenregulartunapackedinwater.Homemadebeans’firmertextureisidealinthissalad,butyoucansubstitutecannedbeans;justrinseanddrainthemwell.

1(6-ounce)canoliveoil–packedtuna,drained1bunchTuscankale,stemsandcenterribsremoved,leaveschoppedintobite-sizepieces(about4cups)2cupscookedcannellinibeansor1(15-ounce)cancannellinibeans,rincedanddrained½mediumredonion,thinlysliced2tablespoonsredwinevinegar¼cupextravirginoliveoilFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Inalargebowl,flakethetunaintobite-sizepieceswithafork.Addthekale,beans,onion,vinegar,andoilandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Tossgentlytocombine.

LEMONVINAIGRETTEWITHGARLICANDANCHOVYMAKESABOUT1CUPAcidityfromfreshlemon,agoodfatlikeoliveoil,somegarlic,andthesaltyflavorofanchoviesadduptoadressingthatbrightensallkindsofdishes.Tossitwithleafygreensorshavedvegetablesalads,drizzleoversteamedpiecesoffish,orpouratablespoonoverHerb-RoastedSpatchcockChickenorRosemary-LemonMinuteSteak.

Juiceof1lemon1garlicclove,peeled2oliveoil–packedanchovyfilletsFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper¾cupextravirginoliveoil

1Squeezethelemonjuiceintoascrew-topglassjar.Cutthegarliccloveinhalfacrossitsequator;smasheachhalfwiththeflatsideofalargeknife.Mincethegarlicandanchoviestogether,addapinchofsalt,andmashintoasmoothpastewithaknife.Addittothejar.

2Addtheoliveoilandapinchofsaltandpepper.Screwthelidonthejarandshaketocombine.Tasteandaddmorelemonjuiceorseasoning,ifneeded.

DandelionSaladwithHard-BoiledEggs

DANDELIONSALADWITHHARD-BOILEDEGGSSERVES4TO6Thisisoneofmyfavoritesalads.Italsohappenstobeoneoftheeasiest,quickestsaladstothrowtogether.Afewbunchesofnicelybitterdandeliongreensaresimplydressedwithredwinevinegar,oliveoil,andhard-boiledeggs.Asyoucombineeverything,thevinegarbreaksdownsomeoftheegg,creatingathin,richcoatingthatmutesthebitternessofthegreens.WhenIwasgrowingup,mymomcookeddandeliongreensalot,sayingfreshdandelionscleanyourblood.Sheknowsherstuff—thatnaturallybitterflavorisactuallyasignofdandelion’sdetoxpower.Soifyoueatabunchofheavy,fatty,orprocessedfoods,doyourliverafavoranddiginonthissaladforsomecleansingaction.Manyofthenutrientsinleafygreenvegetablesarefat-soluble,whichmeanstheyneedtobeeatenwithsomefatsothatyourbodycanadequatelyabsorbthenutrients.Eggsandoliveoilprovidethefatinthissalad,butnuts,avocado,andcheesedothejobtoo.

2bunchesdandeliongreens,thickstemsremoved,cutinto2-inchpieces(about6cups)4Hard-BoiledEggs,chopped½mediumredonion,thinlysliced2tablespoonsredwinevinegar¼cupextravirginoliveoilFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperCrumbledcroutonsortoastedbreadcrumbs(optional)

Putalltheingredients(exceptthecroutons,ifusing)inalargesaladbowlandreallygetintherewithyourhandstothoroughlymixeverythingsotheeggyolksbreakdownandcoatthegreens.Sprinklewithcroutonsortoastedbreadcrumbs,ifyoulike.

TomatoandPeachSalad

TOMATOANDPEACHSALADSERVES4TO6Thisrefreshingsaladisonetomakeinthesummer,whenthefarmers’marketsareblowingupwithbig,fat,juicytomatoes,andpeachesareattheirheightofsweetness.Thetwoareperfecttogether,withthepeachesbalancingtheacidityofthetomatoes.Thaibasilisabitspicierthanregularsweetbasil,andthepurpletingeontheleavesaddsmorecolortothemix.Nobiggieifyoucan’tfindit—sweetbasilisgreatheretoo.Myfarmers’marketoccasionallycarriessmallyellowcucumbersthatI’llsnatchupforthis,alongwithacoupleofcolorsofheirloomtomatoes.Don’tresisttheurgetoaddcheese,ifthatsoundsgoodtoyou.Useadry,crumblygoatcheese,feta,orricottasalata.Thissaladdoesn’tstickaroundlong,soifit’sbeenadayandyoustillhavesomeleft,dumpitinablenderandturnitintoagazpachobyaddingabitmorevinegarandadjustingthesalttotaste.

2largeripetomatoes,cutintolargechunks2peaches,cutintowedges1smallcucumber,thinlysliced¼cupThaibasilleaves1tablespoonbalsamicvinegarFineseasalt2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil

1Onaplatterorinalarge,shallowservingbowl,combinethetomatoes,peaches,andcucumber.Tearthebasilleavesandscatterthemoverthetop.

2Drizzlethevinegaroverthesalad,addsalttotaste,andpourontheoliveoil.Tossgently.

EscaroleSaladwithPearandPecorino

ESCAROLESALADWITHPEARANDPECORINOSERVES4TO6WeservethisclassicwintersaladatHearth,butIoftenmakeitathometoobecauseitcomestogetherfast.Escaroleisasturdy,leafylettucethat’shighinfiberandbetacarotene,whichthebodyconvertsintovitaminAandvitaminK.Slightlybitterescaroleandsweetpeararegreatmates,butwhatmakesthisheartysaladreallysingisusingthewalnutsandcheeseintwodifferentforms.Finelygratedcheeseandgroundwalnutscoattheleaves,sotheirflavorspermeatethewholesalad.Shavingsofcheeseandchoppedwalnutsallowyoutohavebiggerburstsofthoseflavorswithsomecrunch.Don’tbeshywiththepepperhere—itgoesgreatwithpecorinocheese.

1headescarole,washed,cored,leavestornintobite-sizepieces½redonion,thinlysliced1Boscpear,thinlyslicedorshavedonamandoline½cuptoastedwalnuts—¼cupchoppedand¼cupground(dothiswithacoffeegrinder)¼cupfinelygratedPecorinoRomanocheese,plusasmallchunkforshavingontopHoney-CiderVinaigretteFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Inalargebowl,combinetheescarole,onion,pear,groundwalnuts,andgratedPecorino.Addasmuchvinaigretteasyoulike,alongwithsaltandagenerousamountofpepper.Tosstocombine.ScatterthechoppedwalnutsandPecorinoshavingsoverthetopandserve.

MYPOST-WORKOUTSALADSERVES1Onthosecrazydayswhentimeandenergyareinshortsupply,it’swaytooeasyformetofallintooldfoodhabits.I’vefoundthatthewaytoaceagoodfooddaywhenI’minsanelybusyistoplanaheadforleftoversthatcanbequicklycombinedinanenergizingmealthat’sasexcitingandcrave-worthyasanytrashyconveniencefood.Thissaladisallaboutusingwhatyouhaveonhand—leftoversplusafewpantryandrefrigeratormainstays,choppedupandtossedwitholiveoilandvinegar.

Istartedmakingthesesaladsaftermydailyworkoutandrealizedthere’sasimpleformulathatboostsmyenergy,fillsmeupwithoutweighingmedown,offerstonsofnutrients,andhasenoughflavorandtexturetokeepitinteresting.Thissaladisendlesslyadaptable,sousethisrecipeasatemplatetogiveyouinspiration.Ifyouswitchitupwithdifferentgreens,proteins,vegetables,anddressings,you’llnevergetsickofthis.Thinkaboutacouplesimplethingsthatyoucankeeponhand:Whiteanchovies?Marinatedartichokes?Oil-curedolives?Havingyourspecialsomethingaroundwillhelppullyoutowardthesalad.

1cupchoppeddandeliongreens1cupshreddedorcubedcookedchicken¼cupcookedlentils1celerystalk,chopped¼redonion,slicedthinly1smallgarlicclove,grated1tablespoonpumpkinseeds1tablespoonsunflowerseeds¼cuplooselypackedflat-leafparsleyleaves,chopped½avocado,cutintochunks1tablespoonplus1½teaspoonsredwinevinegar1tablespoonplus1½teaspoonsextravirginoliveoilFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Inasaladbowl,combinethegreens,chicken,lentils,celery,redonion,garlic,bothseeds,parsley,avocado,vinegar,andoliveoil.Addacouplepinchesofsaltandseveralgrindsofpeppertotaste.Tosswellanddigin.

MYPOST-WORKOUTSALADBLUEPRINT1LEAFYGREEN—dandeliongreens,spinach,Tuscankale,Swisschard,arugula1ANIMAL-SOURCEDPROTEIN—chicken,salmon,sardines,hard-boiledegg,whiteorbrownanchovies1TENDERBEANORGRAIN—lentils,cannellinibeans,quinoa,milletCRUNCHYVEGETABLES—celery,carrots,redbellpeppers,cucumbers1TO2ONIONS—redonions,scallions,shallots,garlicAHANDFULOFHERBS—flat-leafparsley,cilantro,basilSLICESOFAVOCADO

1OR2TYPESOFSEEDSORNUTS—pumpkinseeds,sunflowerseeds,slicedalmonds,choppedwalnutsEXTRAVIRGINOLIVEOILANDVINEGARORCITRUS—redwinevinegar,applecidervinegar,freshlemonjuiceFINESEASALTANDFRESHLYGROUNDBLACKPEPPER

BibbLettuceSaladwithBeePollen

BIBBLETTUCESALADWITHBEEPOLLENSERVES4Mywife,Amanda,broughthomeajarofrawbeepollenafterreadingaboutitsspectacularnutritionalbenefits,andit’sbeenastapleinourfridgeeversince.Thesoft,spongyyellowgranuleshaveasweetandsurprisinglycomplex,earthyflavor.Ilikeitinoatmeal,smoothies,yogurt,andsalads,andsprinkledovernutbutterontoast.It’sbestasafinishingtouch,sinceallthegoodstuffinbeepollenisdestroyedbyheat.Here,itplayswellwiththefruitytangoftangerinesandgivesapopoftexturetothesalad.Ajarofbeepollenisalittlepotofgold.Itcontainsupto35percentproteinandishighinBvitamins,soit’sgreatforanaturalboostofenergy.Aregulardoseoffresh,localpollengivessomepeoplerelieffromseasonalallergiesbecauseithelpsbuildupresistancetothepollenfloatingaroundintheair.Ideally,youcanbuylocalbeepollenfromavendoratyourfarmers’market,butyoucanalsofinditinmosthealthfoodstores.

2headsBibblettuce,separatedintoleaves2tangerines,dividedintosegments2tablespoonsbeepollen¼cupHoney-TangerineDressingFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Inalargesaladbowl,combinethelettuceleaves,tangerinesegments,beepollen,anddressing.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotasteandgentlytosstocombine.

SpinachSaladwithRoastedFennel,Oil-CuredOlives,andGrapefruit

SPINACHSALADWITHROASTEDFENNEL,OIL-CUREDOLIVES,ANDGRAPEFRUITSERVES4Ichampiontheuseoffennelinanyform,butit’shardtotoproastedfennel.Roastingbringsoutitsnaturalsweetnesswhileconcentratingitsaniseflavor.Youcanroastthefennelaslongoraslittleasyoulike;it’llbejustasgoodslightlyroastedorcookedtobrowncrispiness.WhileIcouldeasilyeatroastedfennellikecandy,tossingthewarmwedgeswithrawspinachmakesacompellingsaladwithacontrastoftemperatureandtextureineverybite.Theoil-curedblackolivesareakeyelement:They’rereallyfull-flavoredandaddanicehitofsalinitytothezingofgrapefruitandthesweet,mellowlicoriceflavoroftheroastedfennel.Iliketocutthegrapefruitintosuprêmes,wholesegmentswithoutthemembrane.Ifyouwanttogoasimplerroute,cutthegrapefruitinhalfacrosstheequator,runyourknifearoundtheentireperimeterbetweenthepeelandthefruit,andthenscoopoutthegrapefruitsegmentswithaspoonorknife.

1largefennelbulb,halvedlengthwise,andeachhalfcutlengthwiseinto8to10thinwedgesFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil1pinkgrapefruit8ouncesbabyspinach(about6looselypackedcups)½cuphalvedandpittedoil-curedblackolives

1Preheattheovento350°F.Lineabakingsheetwithfoil.

2Tossthefennelwedgeswith1tablespoonoftheoliveoilandsaltandpeppertotaste.Roastuntilthey’vesoftenedandtheedgesarebrownedandcrispy,about30minutes.

3Meanwhile,useaMicroplaneorfinegratertogratethegrapefruitzestintoabowl.Usingasharpknife,sliceathinpieceofpeeloffthetopandbottomendsofthegrapefruitsoitsitsflatonthecuttingboard.Peelthegrapefruit,followingthecurveofthefruit,toremoveallthewhitepithandthemembranecoveringthefruit.Workingoveranotherbowl,cutinbetweenthemembranestoreleasethesegments.Juicewhat’sleftofthegrapefruitintothebowlwiththesegments.

4Inalargeservingbowl,combinethespinach,olives,grapefruitsegments(notthejuiceyet),andzest.Assoonasthefennelisfinishedroasting,addittothebowlalongwithabout2tablespoonsofthereservedgrapefruitjuiceandtheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoil.Addsaltandpeppertotasteandtosstocombine.

WarmVegetableSalad

WARMVEGETABLESALADSERVES4Thisisareallytastysaladthatyoucanadapttowhatevervegetablesareinseason.AtHearth,ImakethisinJulywheneveryvarietyofsummersquashishappening,andIcanfindaboatloadofvarietiesofpolebeans,likegreenandyellowRomanobeans(theylooklikelarge,flatgreenbeans)andgreen,yellow,andpurplestringbeans.Ifyouwanttogofancywiththis,addmorevarietiesandcolorsofzucchini,yellowsquash,andstringbeans.Youcanalsorelyonatrioofstandbyvegetables,likegreenbeans,onion,andpotatoorbroccoli,cauliflower,andpotato.Thoughyoudon’tneedmuchofit,thepotatoiskeybecauseitcoatsthevegetables,providingasubtlerichness.Whatevercombinationofvegetablesyougowith,youwanttocookthemuntilthey’resoft,anddrainthemwellbeforedressingthem;otherwise,thesaladiswatereddownandblah-tasting.Whenbuyingzucchini,thesmallerandheavier,thebetter.Thehugeoneswithspongy,soggyinteriorssoakuptoomuchoil.Aimforzucchinithat’snomorethan1inchindiameter.

½cupthinlyslicedredonion(about1small)1smallgarlicclove2tablespoonsredwinevinegarFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1mediumYukonGoldpotato,unpeeledandcutinto1-inchchunks2cupstrimmedandhalvedstringbeans1mediumgreenzucchini,halvedlengthwiseandcutcrosswiseinto½-inchslices(about1cup)1mediumyellowsquash,halvedlengthwiseandcutcrosswiseinto½-inchslices(about1cup)3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil¼cupchoppedfreshbasil

1Addtheoniontoalargesaladbowlandfinelygratethegarliccloveoverit.Pourtheredwinevinegarovertheonionandgarlicandseasonwithapinchofsalt.

2Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoboiloverhighheat.Addthepotatoandcookfor6minutes.Dropthestringbeansintothepotandcover.Cookfor3minutes,thenaddthezucchiniandsquash.Coverandcookfor4minutes,untilallthevegetablesaresoft.

3Drainthevegetables,lettingthemsitinthecolandertocoolforacoupleofminutes.Fishoutthepotatoesandaddthemtothebowlwiththeonionandgarlic.Lightlycrushthepotatoeswiththetinesofafork,butdon’tmashthemtooblivion.Transferthedrainedvegetablestothebowl.

4Addtheoliveoilandbasilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Tosstocombine.

ShavedFennel,Celery,RedOnion,andParsleySalad

SHAVEDFENNEL,CELERY,REDONION,ANDPARSLEYSALADSERVES4Amidstalltheheavydishesofwinter,Ilovetodigintothisrefreshing,crunchy,totallyrawvegetablesalad.Ifyou’venevertriedfennelinitsrawstate,thissaladisagreatwaytogetintoitscrisptextureandmildlysweet,licorice-likeflavor,matchedupwithcelery,flashesofredonion,andthebrightnessofparsley.It’saneasyonetothrowtogether,butyouneedamandoline(orinfinitepatienceandgoodknifeskills)inordertogetthepaper-thinslicesofvegetablesyouwantforthissalad.MyfavoritetoolforthejobisaBenriner,acommonlyavailableJapanesevegetableslicer.It’sinexpensiveandreallybroadensyourrepertoirebyallowingyoutomakeaquicksaladoutofanyshavedsturdyvegetablesandfruitsyoulike.Anyonewhodislikesthetediousnessofchoppingwillbecomeabigfanofthemandoline—andthissalad.Ifyoucangetyourhandsonone,shavingafreshrawartichokeheartintothissaladisagreatidea.

IftheLemonVinaigrettewithGarlicandAnchovyisn’tyourthing,youcandressthesaladwiththejuiceof1lemonand2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil.

½largefennelbulb,stalksdiscarded½redonion4celeryheartstalks(theinner,palegreenstalks)¼cuppackedceleryheartleaves⅓cuppackedflat-leafparsleyleaves3tablespoonsLemonVinaigrettewithGarlicandAnchovyFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperParmigiano-Reggianocheeseshavings(optional)

1Cutthefennelbulbinquarterslengthwisethroughthecore.Sliceeachquarterthinlyonamandoline(tomakeabout1packedcup).Halvetheredonionhalfthroughthecoreandthinlyslice.Thinlyslicetheceleryheartstalks(forabout½cuppacked).

2Inalargebowl,combinethefennel,onion,celeryslicesandleaves,parsley,vinaigrette,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Tosstocombineandadjusttheseasoning,ifneeded.TopwithagooddoseofParmesanshavings,ifyoulike.

Thai-StyleEggplantSalad

THAI-STYLEEGGPLANTSALADSERVES4Eggplant’sspongeliketendencyisitsgreatestassetanditsmostcommonroadtoruin.Alittletoomuchoilanditturnsintoasoggymush.Bydry-roastingit,eggplantcomesoutsoft,butstillmaintainsitsmeatytexture.Peelingawayalternatingstripsofskinhelpstoholdthetendereggplantslicestogetherafterthey’reroastedandaddsaflashofdeeppurplecolortothesalad,alongwithmorefiberandantioxidants.Japaneseeggplantsareoneofmyfavoritetreasuresatthesummergreenmarket.ComparedtoglobeandItalianvarieties,Japaneseeggplantshavenarrower,longerbodieswithfirm,sweetfleshandthinnerskin.Ifyoucan’tgetthem,substituteItalianeggplants.BothvarietiestakewelltoanAsiandressingthathasadeliciousintensityofsaltyandtartflavorscombinedwithmildheatfromaserranopepperandfresh,greenbrightnessfromloadsofcilantro,basil,andmint.

Extravirginoliveoil,forthebakingsheet1½poundsJapaneseeggplant2tablespoonswarmwater1tablespooncoconutpalmsugar1tablespoonfreshlimejuice2tablespoonssoysauce1teaspoonfishsauce1bunchscallions,whiteandpalegreenpartsonly,thinlysliced1largegarlicclove,finelygrated½serranochile,thinlysliced(leaveitoutoraddmoreifyoudigheat)¼cuplooselypackedfreshmintleaves,torn¼cuplooselypackedcilantroleaves,torn¼cuplooselypackedfreshbasilleaves,torn

1Preheattheovento350°F.Lineabakingsheetwithfoilandlightlycoatitwitholiveoil.

2Peelawayalternatingstripsofskinlengthwiseoneacheggplant,leavingstripsofunpeeledskininbetween,soyougetaracingstripelook.Cuttheeggplantcrosswiseinto½-inch-thickrounds(1-inchcubes,ifyou’reusingregulareggplant)andarrangetheminasinglelayeronthebakingsheet.Roastuntiltheeggplantslicesaretenderallthewaytothecenter,about30minutes.

3Inalargebowl,whiskthewaterandcoconutsugartogetheruntilthesugardissolves.Addthelimejuice,soysauce,andfishsauceandwhisktocombine.Whileit’sstillwarm,addtheroastedeggplanttothebowlofdressing.Dropinthescallions,garlic,serranochile,mint,cilantro,andbasilandtosstocombine.

RoastedBeetSaladwithBeetGreens,Oranges,andPistachios

ROASTEDBEETSALADWITHBEETGREENS,ORANGES,ANDPISTACHIOSSERVES4Insteadofthestandardapproachofroastingbeetswholeandthenpeelingforasalad,Isliceandroastthemskin-onatalowtemperature.Areallycoolthinghappenstexturally—theyshrivelupabitandtheoutsidesbecomeslightlydehydrated,givinganicecontrasttothestillsweetandjuicyinside.It’slikebitingintoabeet-flavoredgummybear.Beetgreens,theleafytopsthatyouusuallycutoffanddiscard,areblanchedandchoppedtoformthebaseofthesalad.TheytastesimilartoSwisschardandareanutritionalforceintheirownright.Ifyoucan,useamixofdifferentcoloredbeets:combineredandgolden,orseeifyourlocalmarkethasthecandy-stripedorwhitevarieties.Thisisabeautyofadish,brightinflavorandcolor.Sincethebeetskinsaren’tpeeledoff,besuretoscrubtheoutsidestocleanthemwell.

5mediumbeetswithgreens,trimmedandcutinto½-inch-thickslices,greensreserved4tablespoonsextravirginoliveoilFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper2oranges¼cuppistachios,choppedorcrackedwithbottomofapot

1Preheattheovento300°F.Lineabakingsheetwithfoil.

2Inabowl,tosstheslicedbeetswith2tablespoonsoftheoliveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangethebeetsinasinglelayeronthebakingsheet.Bakefor30minutes.Flipeachsliceandbakeuntilthebeetshaveshrunkinsizeabitandtheskinslookdehydrated,another30minutes.(It’sreallyuptoyourpreferenceintexture,sogiveoneataste.Ifyouwantchewierbeets,bakethemalittlelonger.)

3Whilethebeetsarebaking,bringapotofsaltedwatertoboil.Removethecenterribfromthebeetgreens.Thoroughlywashthegreens,thenaddthemtotheboilingwaterandblanchuntiltender,about2minutes.Drainintoacolanderandruncoldwateroverthemtostopthecooking.Squeezethegreensintoaballinyourhand,wringingoutasmuchliquidaspossible.Puttheballonacuttingboardandsliceitlikethegridofatic-tac-toeboard.Addthegreenstoalargebowl.

4Workingoverthebowlofgreens,gratethezestofoneoftheoranges.Juicehalfofthezestedorangeintothebowl.Usingasharpparingknife,cutallthepeel,pith,andoutermembranesfromthesecondorange,andsliceitcrosswiseintothinrounds.

5Whilethebeetsarestillwarm,addthemtothebowlofgreens.Addtheorangeslices,theremaining2tablespoonsoliveoil,andthepistachiosandtosstocombine.Addsaltandpeppertotaste.

VEGETABLES

EVENBACKINMYDAYSOFEATINGtrashyfoods,I’vealwaysbeenavegetablefan.Mymomandmyauntmaintainedelaborategardens,soourmealsrevolvedaroundwhateverbeautifulveggieswerepoppingupatthemoment.Meatmighthavebeenontheplate,buttheproteindidn’tdefinethemeal.Sometimesdinnerwasaneggdishfullofvegetables,likemyJapaneseSweetPotatoandCauliflowerFrittata,oravegetable-basedpastasimilartoWholeWheatRigatoniwithPorciniMushroomsandBabySpinach.Ifullysupportthegrowingtrendtowardvegetable-focusedmealslikethese,sotheygetalotofloveinthisbook,especiallyhereandinthesaladsandgrainschapters.(There’sareasonIput’emwayearlierthanthemeatandfishsections.)Vegetablesarethefoodkingdom’sholygrailforavarietyofvitamins,

minerals,andantioxidants.Youcouldgiveupcarbs,meat,ordairyandstilllivealong,healthylife,butifyouskipoutonvegetables,allbetsareoff.Theproblemwiththe“eatyourvegetables”messageisthatfortoomanypeople,itmakeseatingvegetablesfeellikeachore.Weshouldfocusonwhat’strulyexcitingaboutthem—themind-blowingdiversityofcolors,shapes,sizes,andtextures,andtheincrediblepotentialforflavor.Considerthecolorspectrumaloneandyou’llseewhyIfindmoreinspirationinvegetablesthananyotherfoods.Vegetablesalsogiveyoutheabilitytorunthegamutofcookingtechniques—

braising,roasting,boiling,sautéing,dehydrating,pickling,fermenting,andeverythinginbetween.Theopportunitiesyouhaveareendless—andexcitingtomebothasacookandassomeonetryingtoeatmostlyhealthyfoodseveryday.It’simpossibletofallintoahealthyeatingrutifyou’rereallytakingadvantageofthevarietyofvegetablesandcookingmethodsavailabletoyou.Anotherpointforvegetablesisthevolumeyoucanconsume—forthosetimeswhenIcanonlybesatisfiedbyagiantbowloffood(oldhabitsdiehard),vegetablesallowmetochowdowninawaythatisn’tdisastroustomybody.Theideaofveggie-focusedmealsistoughifyou’rehauntedbythememory

ofboiled-to-deathBrusselssprouts;limp,cannedvegetables;orbitter,soggyeggplant.Givenwhathappenswhenvegetablesarepoorlycookedandseasoned,it’snosurprisetherearealotofhaters.Butifyoumaximizetheirnaturalflavorsthroughafewsimpletechniqueslikethosehere,vegetablescantransformfrombeinganunfortunatenecessityoflifeintosomethingundeniablydelicious.Roastingbringsoutthebestinjustaboutallvegetables,intensifyingtheirflavorandreleasingtheirnaturalsweetnesstocreateacaramelizedexterior.Braisinggivesyouperfectlytender,richlysatisfyingvegetables,andsautéingwitharomaticherbsisagreatwaytoaddlayersofflavortoapureedvegetablesoup.Aquicknoteonshopping:Forcostandconveniencereasons,I’mallfor

frozenvegetables.Wekeepbroccoli,peas,stringbeans,spinach,andcarrotsinthefreezerandtossthemintoquickmeals.They’reusuallyflash-frozenwithinadayortwoofharvesting,soflavorandnutritionarestillneartheirpeak.There’s

definitelyadifferenceintexture,though,soIopttostickwithwhateverisinseasonandusefrozenvegetablesasabackup.Tryshoppingforproduceatmarketsdrivenbylocalfarms:Vegetablesinvariablytastebetterandhavemorenutrientswhentheyarelocallygrown,becausetheyhaven’tspentdaysorweekstravelingtoyourstore.Thenaturallyoccurringsugarsareattheirhighestlevelswhenservedupfresh—abonusifyou’retryingtogetkidsonthevegetablebandwagon.Mydaughtergoesnutsforthesuper-sweetcrunchoflocalstringbeansandchompsonthemthewholewayhomefromthefarmers’market.

GARLICKYBRUSSELSSPROUTSSERVES4Thismethodofmakingcrispy,goldenbrown–crustedsproutsrevealsalevelofdeep,nuttyflavorthatscoresalotofpointswithBrusselssproutlovers(andanyonescarredbyencounterswithmushy,boiledversions).CookBrusselssprouthalvescut-sidedowninasuperhotpantoworkupthoseirresistiblecrusts,thenflipthemonebyone.Thisseemsfussy,butittakesallofabout40secondstohelpensuretheevenbrowningyouwant.Inthelastminuteofcooking,driedoregano,redpepperflakes,andvinegarjoininforaneasy-to-master,high-fiberdish.Thegarlicistheretoinfusetheoil,soIusuallydiscardtheclovesaftercooking.However,ifgarlicisyourthing,andyou’resleepingalonetonight,byallmeansleaveitin.Addinggarlictoacoldpanpreventsitfromburningandallowsitsflavortofullyinfusetheoil.

4tablespoonsextravirginoliveoilFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1poundBrusselssprouts,trimmedandhalvedlengthwise(about2cups)3garliccloves,peeledandsmashedwiththeflatsideofaknife1teaspoondriedoreganoPinchofredpepperflakes3tablespoonsredwinevinegar

1Pour3tablespoonsoftheoliveoilintoacold12-inchskillet,addapinchofsalt,andswirltheoilaroundtocoatthepan.Arrangethesproutscut-sidedowninonetightlypackedlayer,andnestlethegarlicclovesinbetweenthesprouts.(Ifeverythingdoesn’tfitinonelayer,cookthesproutsinbatches.)

2Turntheheattohigh,sprinklewithsaltandblackpepper,andcookfor7minutes,untouched.They’rereadytoflipwhenthecutsidestouchingthepanhaveadarkbrowncrust.Checkacoupleofsproutsand,ifready,flipeachsproutandgarliccloveonebyone.Ifthey’renotthereyet,continuecookingfor2minutesmore.

3Addtheremaining1tablespoonoliveoiltothepan,reducetheheattomedium,andcookfor3minutes.Addtheoreganoandpepperflakesandtosswiththesproutsandgarlic.Addthevinegarandtossagain.Cookuntilthesizzlediesdown,about30seconds.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.Servewarm.

PLANTPOWERWhyVegetablesareVitalIt’shardtogoaweekwithouthearingaboutthelatestandgreatestsuperfooddiscovery—someenergy-boosting,weight-loss-friendlyseedorberryfromafarawaymountaintop.WhileI’mnotdenyingthatthey’renutritious,there’snothingmagicalaboutfoodslikeaçaiberriesandpomegranates.Theyhavemoremarketingdollarsworkingforthem,butthey’renothealthierthantheasparagusorapplesatyourlocalfarmers’market.

Thetruthisthateverywholeplantfoodisasuperfood,andnotanyoneofthemcanbesingledoutasthegoldentickettogoodhealth.It’stheircollectivepowers,thetried-and-truepracticeof“eatingtherainbow”ofbrightlycoloredvegetablesandfruits,thatcansteeryouawayfromhighbloodpressure,heartdisease,cancer,andprematureaging.Bymixingitupintheproducesection,you’llnotonlyhavefarmoreexcitingmeals,you’llalsobenefitfromawidervarietyofvitamins,minerals,andphytonutrients,thecompoundsthatgiveplantfoodstheircharacteristiccolors.

Don’tthinkyoucantakeaone-a-daypill,gorightoneatingcrappyfood,andstillbefine.Supplementscan’tcaptureallthegoodnessofvitaminsandantioxidantsinwholefoods.Thephytonutrientsineachfruitandvegetableworkasateam,soextractingjustonecomponentdoesn’tcutit.

Manyphytochemicalsfunctionasantioxidants,includingthecarotenoidsinsweetpotatoes,carrots,andbutternutsquashandtheflavonoidsinblueberries,grapes,andredwine.Antioxidantsaresuperheroesthatwipeoutfreeradicals—unstableoxygenmoleculesthatdamagehealthycellsthroughaprocesscalledoxidativestress.Someoxidativestressisnormal,butwedrasticallyaccelerateitthroughsmokingcigarettes,livinginastateofconstantstress,andeatingshittyacid-formingprocessedfoods.Antioxidantsandtheplantfoodsthatcarrythemarecrucialbecausetheyneutralizefreeradicalsandstopthedownwardspiralofoxidativestress,ultimatelyslowingtheagingprocessandreducingtheriskofwindingupwithcancerorachronicdiseaselikeAlzheimer’s.Sowhileeatingyourvegetablesdoesn’tmakeamiraclecure,itsureashellmakesitalotlesslikelythatyou’llbediagnosedwithsomethingtrulydestructive.

Abigsourceoffreeradicalsisexposuretopesticidesandtoxins.Someexposureisinevitable,sinceweliveinthemodernworld,butyoucanreduceitbybuyinglocalororganicproducewheneverpossible.Buyingorganicisn’taboutgettingmorenutrients,it’saboutwhatyou’renotgetting:pesticides,fertilizers,fungicides,andotherfreakychemicals.Organicoptionscanbepricey,butIconsideritaworthwhileinvestment.CheckouttheEnvironmentalWorkingGroup’sDirtyDozenlistonline.Ifanythingonthelistisregularlyinyourshoppingcart,youcantrytobuytheorganicversionofthose.Sometimes,smallproducersatlocalfarmers’marketsuseorganicpracticesbuthaven’tgonethroughthe(pricey)officialcertification.Producefromthosefarmsmaybemoreaffordable.

SweetPepperPeperonata

SWEETPEPPERPEPERONATASERVES4TO6Thisexemplifiesthesimple,deliciousTuscanfoodIgrewupeating.Imakeityear-round,butit’sespeciallygoodfromlatesummertoearlyfall,whenantioxidant-richpeppersareprimetime.Thecolorfulmixofstewedsweetpeppersandonionsisgreatasacondimentwithcheeseandcharcuterie,afillingforanomelet,oratoppingheapedonapieceofroastedfishorFlavor-PoundedChicken.Italsoholdsitsownasasidedish,whetherhotoutofthepanorservedroomtemperature.Peperonataisevenbetterafewdaysaftermakingit,sothisoneisago-toofminewhenI’mcookingforagroupandwantafewmake-aheaddishes.Ifyouliketoflipfoodaroundalotwhileitcooks,thisrecipeisanexerciseinself-restraint.Withtoomuchfiddlingthatdeepbrowningwon’thappen,sogoeasyonit—nurturethebrowning.

2garliccloves,peeled¼cupplus1tablespoonextravirginoliveoil1oliveoil–packedbrownanchovyfillet,minced2largeredbellpeppers,cutinto1-inchsquares2largeyellowbellpeppers,cutinto1-inchsquares1mediumredonion,cutinto½-inchdiceFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1cuplooselypackedfreshbasilleaves,roughlytorn1tablespoonbalsamicvinegar

1Crackthegarlicclovesbygivingeachoneatapwiththeflatsideofaknifeuntiltheysplitopen.Inalarge,coldhigh-sidedpan,combine¼cupoftheoliveoil,thegarlic,andanchovy,thencranktheheattohigh.Whentheoilishotandyouseethefirstwispsofsmokecomingoffthepan,addthebellpeppers(sotheygetthemostheat),thentheonion,andseasonwithsaltandblackpepper.Letthevegetablesdotheirthingintheoilwithoutstirringforabout4minutes.

2Stirbrieflyandletcookfor2minutesbeforestirringagain.Afteranotherminute,orwhenthepanstartstolookdry,addtheremaining1tablespoonoliveoilandstirtocoat.Cookuntilthepeppersandonionshowbrowningaroundtheedgesandhaveshrunkdownsome,about3minutes.

3Reducetheheattomedium-high.Tasteandaddmoresaltandpepper,ifneeded.Cookfor5minutes,tossingoccasionally.Addthebasilandcontinuecookingfor10minutes,tossingeverycoupleofminutes.

4Removethepanfromtheheatandstirinthevinegar.Serveimmediately,orletitcometoroomtemperatureandstoreintherefrigerator.

RoastedAsparagusandLemonwithChunkyPesto

ROASTEDASPARAGUSANDLEMONWITHCHUNKYPESTOSERVES4Freshlyroastedasparagusdoesn’tneedmuchmorethangood-qualityoliveoilandsalt,butI’mafirmbelieverthatpestomakeseverythingbetter.Byhand-choppingpestoratherthanwhizzingitupinafoodprocessor,yougetmoresubstantialbitsofcheeseandpinenutsineverybite.Forattractivenessandbrightness,IoftenthrowinthinlemonsliceswithwhateverI’mroasting.Theheatmellowstheiracidityandsoftensthepeelsoyoucaneatthesliceswhole.Avoidusingskinnyasparaguswhenroasting,sincethosecangetstringyandburnquickly.

1bunchmediumasparagus1tablespoonextravirginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzling1lemon—½cutintothinslices,½reservedforservingFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1(3-inch)chunkParmigiano-Reggianocheese2tablespoonspinenuts½cuplooselypackedfreshbasilleaves,coarselychopped

1Preheattheovento450°F.Lineabakingsheetwithfoil.

2Trimtheasparagusbyholdingeachstalkhorizontallyandbendinguntilthetough,woodyendsnapsoff.Onthebakingsheet,tosstheasparaguswiththeoliveoil,lemonslices,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Roastuntiltheasparagusistenderandthelemonslicesarelightlybrowned,about20minutes.

3Whiletheasparagusisroasting,usethetinesofaforktocrumbletheParmesanintosmallnuggets,about2tablespoonstotal.Pilethecheese,pinenuts,andbasiltogetheronacuttingboardandchopuntilthey’rewellcombinedbutstillchunky.

4Transfertheroastedasparagusandlemonslicestoaservingplatter,addthechunkypesto,andtosstogether.Squeezethejuiceoftheremaininglemonhalfandtopwithadrizzleofoliveoil.

RomescoSauce

ROMESCOSAUCEMAKESABOUT2CUPSUnbelievablyrichandvibrant,ajarofthisSpanishpestolikesaucedoesn’tstandachanceoflastingmorethan48hourswhenI’maround.Itsrichnesscomesfromthequalityfatsinalmonds,hazelnuts,andoliveoil,soIdon’tfeelbadaboutmyhabitofhoveringoverajarofitwithaspoon.Romescoistraditionallymadewithgrilledorroastedredpeppers,butIprefertheeaseofthisstovetopvariation.I’vescaledthistoabigbatch,souseitanytimeyouwanttoaddapunchofpiquantflavortosteamedorgrilledvegetablesorfish.It’sdynamiteasadip,acondimentforsandwiches,orstirredintoabowlofquinoaorrice.IalsoscoopitontoHerb-RoastedSpatchcockChicken.

5tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil3redbellpeppers,cutintolargepiecesFineseasalt3largegarliccloves,sliced1teaspoonsmokedpaprika½cupMarconaalmonds½cuphazelnuts1cupcannedstewedtomatoes,drained2tablespoonssherryvinegar

1Inalargehigh-sidedskillet,heat3tablespoonsoftheoliveoiloverhighheat.Whenwispsofsmokestartcomingoffthepan,addthebellpeppersandapinchofsalt.Cookfor5minutes,stirringoccasionally.Addthegarlicandsmokedpaprikaandcookfor2minutes.Addthealmondsandhazelnuts,reducetheheattomedium-high,andcookfor5minutes,stirringoccasionally.Stirinthetomatoesalongwithanotherpinchofsaltandreducetheheattomedium.Cookforanother5minutessoalltheflavorscometogether.

2Transferthemixturetoafoodprocessorandaddthevinegarandremaining2tablespoonsoliveoil.Pulseuntilthoroughlycombined,butstillcoarse.Tasteandadjustseasoning,ifneeded.

BRAISEDSTRINGBEANSSERVES6It’sararethingwhenalittleeffortisrewardedwithanimpressiveresult.Forthisreason,braisingisoneofmyfavoritecookingtechniques.Bydoingnexttonothing,yougetahugeamountofrichflavor.Theseslow-cookedstringbeanscomeouttenderandaddictivelytastyeverytime(andthey’reevenbetterthenextday,sothisisscaleduptogiveyousomeleftovers).Thiswilltakeabout45minutestocook,butit’smostlyhandsoff.Ifyoumakethisduringthesummer,andIrecommendyoudo,seeifyoucanfindRomanobeanstosubinforthestringbeans.They’rebroaderinshapeandstandupwelltolongercookinglikethis.Ifit’sthedeadofwinterandyourfreshtomatoselectionisiffy,feelfreetosubstitutea28-ouncecanofchoppedtomatoes.Justbesuretodraintheliquidoutbeforeaddingthetomatoestothepot.

¼cupextravirginoliveoil2smallyellowonions,thinlysliced1largegarlicclove,peeledandsmashedwiththeflatsideofaknife2poundsstringbeans,trimmedandhalvedcrosswise(8to9cups)6plumtomatoes,roughlychopped(about4cups)Fineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1cuplooselypackedfreshbasilleaves,chopped

1PourtheoliveoilintoalargecoldpotorDutchoven.Layerinthevegetables—theonionsandgarliconthebottom,followedbythestringbeansandthenthetomatoesontop.Addacouplegenerouspinchesofsaltandpepper.Coverandturntheheattohigh.Cookfor12minutes,thenstirthevegetablestocoatthemintheliquidthey’vereleased.Coverandcookfor3minutesbeforestirringagain.

2Reducetheheattomediumandcookforanother5minutes,thenstirandtaste.Adjusttheseasoningwithsaltandpepper,ifneeded.Coverandcookforanother10minutes.Stirandcookuncoveredfor15minutes,soanyremainingliquidevaporatesandtheflavorsconcentrate.

3Addthebasilandtosswiththestringbeans.Tasteandadjustseasoning.

ROASTEDBROCCOLIWITHHAZELNUTSANDPECORINOSERVES4Mostpeopletypicallythinkofboilingorsteamingbroccoli,ortheyhavevisionsoftragic,overcookedbroccolithat’slimpandawful,andtheyavoiditaltogether.ButIthinkyoudon’tknowjusthowgreatbroccolicanbeuntilyouroastit.Itbecomestender,whileretainingsomecrispness,andcaramelizestothepointwheretheflorets’edgesaretoastedandcrunchy.Tossinhazelnuts,shavingsofPecorinoRomano,andasqueezeoflemon,androastedbroccolibecomesaddictive.NotetoAmerica’sparentsandschoolcafeterias:Roastthebroccoliandthekidswilleatit!Thestemsareeverybitasflavorfulandnutritiousastheflorets,soIliketocutbroccoliintospearswithacoupleofinchesofstemoneach.

1bunchbroccoli4tablespoonsextravirginoliveoilFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper¼cupchoppedhazelnutsJuiceof½lemonChunkofPecorinoRomanocheese,forserving

1Preheattheovento400°F.Lineabakingsheetwithfoil.

2Cutthebroccoliintochunkyfloretswithafewinchesofstalkattached.

3Inalargebowl,tossthebroccoliwith3tablespoonsoftheoliveoilandsaltandpeppertotaste.Spreadthebroccoliinasinglelayeronthebakingsheetandroastuntiltheedgesofthefloretsarebeginningtobrown,20to25minutes.Sprinklethehazelnutsoverthetopandroastfor5minutesmore.

4Whilethefloretsarestillhot,transferthebroccoliandhazelnutstoaservingbowlandtosswiththelemonjuice,theremaining1tablespoonoliveoil,andshavedPecorino.

LACTO-FERMENTEDCARROTSANDGINGERMAKESABOUT6CUPSTartandsaltywithazingfromginger,Ican’tgetenoughofthisasacondimentforsandwiches,burgers,andanythingspicy.WhenIstopmyselffromeatingitstraightoutofthejar,Iuseacupofittomakeatangyvinaigretteforsalads.Thestepsseemlong,buttheprocessisprettystraightforward,andnaturallyoccurringgoodbacteriadomostofthework.Thekeytofermentingsuccessiskeepingoxygenexposuretoaminimum:Thegoodbacteriahateair,sothecarrotsandgingershouldbefullycoveredwithbrinethroughouttheentireprocess.Otherwise,moldcandevelopandspoiltheferment.Fainthissingandpoppingnoisesarecompletelynormal,asisthethin,whitefilmthatmayformonthesurface—that’sjustthefriendlyprobioticsatwork.

2poundscarrots,scrubbedandtopendstrimmed¼poundfreshginger,peeled2tablespoonsfineseasalt

1Inafoodprocessororonaboxgrater,shredthecarrotsandginger.Combinetheshreddedvegetablesandsaltinalargebowl.Kneadthemixturelikedough,pressingandsqueezingitforabout3minutestoreleasethenaturaljuicesfromthecarrotsandcreatethebrine.

2Transferthevegetablesandjuicetoa2-quartwide-mouthglassjar.Packthecarrotsandgingerdownintothejarastightlyaspossible,usingameattenderizeroryourfist,untiltheliquidisatleast¼inchabovethecarrots.Ifneeded,addabitofsaltedwatertomakesurethevegetablesarecovered.(Thereshouldalsobeatleast1inchofspacebetweenthetopoftheliquidandthetopofthejar,incasethere’sspilloverduringtheferment.)Usingarubberspatula,brushdownanybitsofcarrotorgingerthatarestucktothesidesofthejar.

3Weightdowntheshreddedvegetablesinthebrinebyplacingasmallcircularplasticliddirectlyontopofthem.Placeasmallsauceroverthemouthofthejar.(Usingasaucerinsteadofscrewingonthejar’slidallowsthegassesproducedbythefermentationprocesstohaveawayout.)

4Setasideatroomtemperatureawayfromdirectsunlighttoferment.Keepaneyeonitforthefirstday,checkingtomakesurethevegetablesarestillfullysubmerged.Ifthey’repeekingabovetheliquid,addsaltedwaterbythetablespoonuntilthevegetablesaresubmergedagain(avoidstirringupthebrinesincethiscouldintroduceair).Fermentfor5to10days—startyourdailytastingonday5.Oncethecarrotsandgingerreachaleveloftangysournessyoulike,removetheweightfrominsidethejar,screwonalid,andstoreintherefrigerator.Itwillkeepformonthsinthefridge.

THEPROBIOTICPOWEROFFERMENTEDFOODSYou’veheardofprobiotics—youcan’twatchTV,groceryshop,orotherwiseliveadayinAmericawithoutseeingafood,pill,orbeveragethatpromisesthebenefitsofprobiotics.Probioticsaidahealthydigestivesystembyrestoringandmaintainingahealthybalanceofgutflora—thehundredsofdifferentsickness-curingandsickness-causingbacteriathatconstantlybattleitoutinyourgastrointestinaltract.Whenprobiotics,aformof“good”bacteria,areabundantinyourbody,it’sharderforharmfulbacteriatotakeoverandmakeyousick.Thosegoodguyscanpreventdigestiveupset(burps,bloating,andworse)andsupportyouroverallimmunesystem.Themostnaturalwaytogetthebenefitsofprobioticsisthroughavarietyof

lacto-fermentedfoods.Yogurt,theprobioticposterchild,isafermentedmilkproduct,andhealthfoodjointsarepushingafizzy,fermentedteacalledkombucha.Ihappentolovefermentedvegetables.IgoforsauerkrautanditsAsiancousin,kimchi—botharefermentedcabbage—andI’mwildaboutthelacto-fermentedgingercarrotsfromHawthorneValleyFarminNewYork,whichinspiredmyversionhere.Lacto-fermentingvegetablessoundslikeitwouldbeacomplicatedprocess,

andonethatinvolvesmilk—neitheristrue.It’sbasicallyvegetablesinasaltybrinelefttositoutatroomtemperaturesothatbeneficiallacticacidbacteriadevelop(“lacto”referstoLactobacillus,theofficialnameofthebacteria).Lacticacidisanaturalpreservativethatpreventsbadbacteriafrominvadingfood.Beforerefrigeration,traditionalculturesreliedonfermentingbecauseitwasthemostpracticalwaytoextendtheirfoodsupply.Wenowknowthatthisprocessleadstothejackpotofprobioticbenefits,sotheincrediblysimpleandgratifyingold-schoolpreparationisgaininginpopularityagain.

LACTO-FERMENTEDNAPACABBAGEANDONIONSMAKESABOUT6CUPSIftheterm“lacto-fermented”isthrowingyouoff,restassuredyou’refamiliarwiththisone:It’ssauerkraut.Cabbageisthemostcommonfermentedvegetableandmakesagreatsidedishforcookedmeatsoracondimentforrichstews.Carawayseedsarethetraditionalchoiceforsauerkraut,butyoucouldalsousecuminseeds,dillseeds,orceleryseeds.

1largeheadNapacabbage(about3pounds),thinlysliced1largeyellowonion,thinlysliced2tablespoonsfineseasalt1tablespooncarawayseeds

1Discardanywiltedouterleavesofthecabbage.Coreandslicethecabbageintoquarters,thenthinlyslicethecabbageandcombineitwiththeonions,salt,andcarawayseedsinalargebowl.Massagethemixture,pressingandsqueezingitforabout3minutes,sothesaltpullswateroutofthecabbageandcreatesthebrine.

2Packthevegetablesandanyliquidreleasedfromthecabbageintoa2-quartwide-mouthglassjar.Pressthecabbageintothejarwithyourfistuntilit’ssubmergedbyabout¼inchofliquid.(Ifneeded,addabitofsaltedwatertomakesurethevegetablesarecovered.)Weightthevegetablesdowninthebrinebyplacingasmallplateorcircularplasticliddirectlyontopofthecabbageinsidethejar.Coverthemouthofthejarwithasmallsaucer.Setasideatroomtemperatureawayfromdirectsunlighttoferment.

3Onthefirstday,checkthefermentperiodicallytomakesurethevegetablesarestillfullysubmerged.Ifthey’repokingoutofthebrine,pressdownontheplateorliduntilthecabbageissubmergedagain.Addsaltedwaterbythetablespoon,ifadditionalliquidisneeded.

4Starttastingthecabbagedailyonday5.Onceittastessufficientlytangytoyou,removetheweightfrominsidethejar,screwonalid,andrefrigerate.Itwillkeepformonthsinthefridge.

CREAM-FREECREAMEDCORNSERVES6Whenit’sinseason,locallygrownsweetcornisasgoodasgoldstraightoffthecob.Butforcorn-basedcomfortfood,creamedcornisunbeatable.Tomaxoutthecornflavor,skiptheheavycreamandusethecornitselftoprovidecreaminess.Ipureehalfthekernelstoreleasetheirnaturalsweetstarchesandusethiscorn“cream”tothickenamixtureofonionsandwholecornkernels.It’sincrediblygood.Here’showIremovecornkernelsfromthecobwithoutthemflyingaroundandendinguponthefloor:Laythecobonacuttingboardandcuthorizontallyfromthetiptotheend,removingaboutthreerows.Rotatethecobsoitrestsontheflatside,andremovethreemorerows.Continuerotatingandcuttinguntilallthekernelsareremoved.

10earswhitecorn,shucked2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil1smallyellowonion,dicedFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper2teaspoonsroughlychoppedfreshbasil

1Cutthecornkernelsfromthecobs.

2Inalargehigh-sidedskillet,heattheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addtheonionandsaltandpeppertotaste.Cookuntiltheonionbeginstosoften,about10minutes.Addthecornkernels,anotherpinchofsalt,and½cupwater.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilthecornisalmosttender,about7minutes.

3Transferhalfofthecornandonionmixturetoablenderandprocessuntilsmooth.Removetheskilletfromtheheatandstirinthecornpuree.Addthebasilandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

RosemarySweetPotatoFries

ROSEMARYSWEETPOTATOFRIESSERVES4Momentsafterthesefriescomeoutoftheoven,we’repluckingthemoffthepanbythehandful.Ihonestlythinkthey’venevermadeittoaplateinourhouse,evenwhenwedoubletherecipe.Beforeyoujumpintothisone,banishallnotionsofclassiccrispydeep-friedpotatoes.Sweetpotatoeshaveahigherwatercontent,sotheydon’tcrispupthewayregularpotatoesdo,butthat’sexactlywhyIlovethemasbakedfries.Someturnoutsupercrispyallover,somearesoftandabitfloppy,andothershavetheperfectcrunchy,darkbrownedgeswithtendercenters.It’sthecombinationofallthoseirregulartexturesthatmakesthesesogood.Sweetpotatoesarehigherinfiberandlowerontheglycemicindexthanregularpotatoes,andtheirbrightorangefleshsignalsatonoftheantioxidantbeta-carotene,whichconvertstovitaminAinthebody.Theantioxidantactivityinsweetpotatoesishighestintheskin,soIdon’tpeelthem.

1poundsweetpotatoes3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil2tablespoonsfreshrosemaryleavesFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Preheattheovento400°F.Lineabakingsheetwithfoil.

2Scrubthepotatoesandpatthemdry.Halveeachsweetpotatocrosswise,thenlengthwiseintosticksabout¼inchwide(don’tbeaslavetoperfectionhere;roughlythesamesizeisfine).Onthebakingsheet,tossthesweetpotatoeswiththeoliveoil.Addtherosemaryandseveralpinchesofsaltandpepperandtossagaintocoatthefries.

3Bakefor20minutes,thengentlyflipthefrieswithaspatula.(Theywillbesoftandsoggy,sobecarefulnottomanglethemasyouflipthemover.)Rotatethepanandbakefor15minutes.Stironcethenbakeforanother10minutesoruntilthefriesarenicelybrownedontheedgesandtenderinthemiddle.Loosenthemcarefullyfromthepansoyoudon’tripthefoilorthefries.

MapleandSpice–RoastedAutumnSquash

MAPLEANDSPICE–ROASTEDAUTUMNSQUASHSERVES4TO6ThisisaversionofapopularsaladweserveatHearth.Cubesoftenderroastedbutternut,redkuri,andkabochasquasharesweetenedwithjustenoughmaplesyruptobalancethespicywarmthofginger,cinnamon,andnutmeg.Ilikebutteryredkurisquashwiththesweeterbutternutandcreamykabocha,butanycombinationoffallsquashworks.Ileavetheskinsonthekabochaandredkurisquashbecausethey’recompletelyedibleandaddmorefiberandacontrastingtexture.Besuretocleantheskinwellwithavegetablebrushorthecoarsesideofacleansponge,andthoroughlyscrapeoutthesquashgutsandseedswiththeedgeofaspoonuntiltherearenoloosebits.Cutandroasttheremaininghalvesofthekabochaandbutternutsquashtokeeparoundassnacksortothrowinwhateversaladorsoupyoulike.You’vegottogetkabochainyourrepertoire;itsfleshisasilkier,slightlysweeterversionofbutternutsquash.Youshouldbeabletofinditinyourlocalgrocerystoreduringfallandwinter,butifnot,useacornsquashorjustdoubleuponthebutternutorredkuri.

½kabochasquash,1redkurisquash,½peeledbutternutsquash,allcutinto1½-inchcubes(about8cupscubedsquashtotal)1½tablespoonsmaplesyrup1teaspoongroundginger¾teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoongroundcloves¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg1teaspoonfineseasalt1½tablespoonsMapleSyrupVinaigretteSpicedPumpkinSeeds,forgarnish

1Preheattheovento325°F.

2Inalargebowl,combinetheassortedsquashcubesandmaplesyrup.Seasonwiththeginger,cinnamon,cloves,nutmeg,andsaltandtosstoevenlycoat.Arrangethesquashonarimmedbakingsheetinasinglelayer.Coverthepanwithfoiltohelpthesquashtocookinitsownsteamandbecomemoreinfusedwiththespices.Bakeuntilthesquashissoft,about35minutes.

3Removethesquashfromtheoven,andsetasidetocoolfor10minutes,stillcoveredwiththefoil.

4Whilethesquashisstillwarm,transferittoalargebowl.Addthevinaigretteandlightlytoss;don’troughituptoomuchandbreakdownthesquash.Addsalttotasteandtopeach

servingwithasprinklingofspicedpumpkinseeds.

Clockwisefromtopright:kabochasquash,Delicatasquash,butternutsquash,redkurisquash

HOWTOCUTWHOLESQUASHInstincttellsyoutouseagiantcleaverandbruteforcetohackawayatit.Don’t.There’saneasy,effectivewaythat’slesslikelytoinvolvea911call.Startbyusingasmall,sharpknife,ratherthanabigone;you’llhavefarmorecontrol.Laythesquashonitssideonastablecuttingboard.You’regoingtocutitthroughtheequator,rotatingasyougo.

Kabocha,redkuri,orDelicata(Carnival)squash:Pierceaknifeinthecenterattheequatorsothewholebladeisin,pushdown,androtatethesquash.Pushdownagainandrotate.Continuepushingtheknifedownandrotatingthesquashuntilit’sfullycutinhalf.Cutthehalveslengthwiseintostripsofthewidthyouwant(forthissalad,1½inches),thencrosswiseintocubes.

Butternutsquash:Cutthesquashinhalfwheretheroundbulbouspartmeetsthelongsection.Carefullypeeltheskinoffthelongsectionusingaknifefirst.Thenuseavegetablepeelertoremoveanyoftheremainingbitsofskinandpaleyellowflesh.Youshouldseeonlyorangeflesh.Halvethelongsectionlengthwise.Laythehalvesflatsidedownandcutlengthwiseintostrips,thencrosswiseintocubes.Forthebulb,peelitandhalveitlengthwise.Scoopoutthegutsandseeds,placeeachbulbflat-sidedown,andcutlengthwiseintostrips,thencrosswiseintocubes.

STRAWBERRYANDTOMATOGAZPACHOSERVES4Inthemiddleofthesummer,rightwhenNewYorkstartstogetsticky-hotandcoldsoupsoundsespeciallygood,latestrawberryseasonandearlytomatoseasoncollideatthemarket.Inevitably,thetwofruits(yep,tomatoesarefruits)enduptogetherinmyblendertomakethisdeliciousgazpacho.Strawberriesseemliketheoddmanouthere,buttheirsweetnessandbitofaciditybringbalancetothesoup.

3cupscherrytomatoes1poundstrawberries,hulledandquartered(about2cups);reserve8quartersforserving1cuppeeled,choppedcucumber1cupchoppedredbellpepper2garliccloves,peeledandsmashedwiththeflatsideofaknife¾cupextravirginoliveoil,plusmoreforserving1tablespoonplus1teaspoonsherryvinegarFineseasaltFreshbasilleaves,torn,forserving

1Inablender,combinethetomatoes,strawberries,cucumber,bellpepper,garlic,oliveoil,vinegar,andacouplepinchesofsaltandpureeuntilsmooth.Tasteandadjustseasoning,ifneeded.

2Pourthegazpachointoalargebowlor,forasupersmoothgazpacho,strainitthroughafine-meshsievesetoveralargebowl.Refrigerateuntilchilled.

3Toserve,ladlethegazpachointobowls.Chopthereservedstrawberriesandtopeachservingofsoupwiththeberries,tornbasil,andadrizzleofoliveoil.

CARAMELIZEDCAULIFLOWERANDAPPLESOUPSERVES6TO8I’vekickedoffseveralThanksgivingmealswiththissoupandcanconfirmthatitwinsoverawideaudience,eventhepickypeople.Pan-roastingthecauliflowerinahotpanbringsoutitsnaturalsugarsandgivesitamuchdeeperflavor.Tonailthis,besurethattheoilisreallyhotbeforeaddingthevegetablesandthatyoumaintaintheheatbyaddingthecauliflowerandonionstothepotinseveralstages,ratherthanallatonce.Withoutadequateheat,thevegetableswillstarttoreleaseliquidandsteaminsteadofbrown.Iprocessthesoupinaregularblender,butyoucoulduseanimmersionblenderifyoupreferachunkierconsistency.Orifyouwantsuper-refinedsmoothness,youcouldruntheprocessedsoupthroughafine-meshsieve.Subbinginslicedfennelforthecauliflowermakesanequallyflavorfulsoup.Eitherway,thissoupisfreezer-friendly.

¼cupextravirginoliveoil1largeonion,roughlychopped(about2cups)1largeheadcauliflower,cutintobite-sizepieces,stemsincluded(about5cups)Fineseasalt2apples,quarteredandcutinto1-inchchunks2(4-inch)sprigsoffreshrosemary,foldedinhalfandtiedwithkitchentwine½cupnonalcoholicappleciderDehydratedapplechipsandchoppedwalnuts(optional)

1Inalargeheavy-bottomedpotorDutchoven,heattheoiloverhighheat.Whenwispsofsmokecomeoffthesurface,addone-thirdoftheonionandcaulifloweratatime,waiting1minutebetweeneachaddition,thenadd2generouspinchesofsalt.Thereshouldbesomeserioussizzlingsounds,butdon’tstirjustyet—letthefloretsbrownandstarttocaramelize.After3minutes,giveitastir.Cookfor5minutes,untilthevegetableshavecookeddownbyathird.Reducetheheattomedium-highandstir.Cookfor5minutes,stirringeveryminute.

2Addtheapplesandtiedrosemarysprigs.Coverthepot,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor15minutes,stirringoccasionally.

3Addtheappleciderand2½cupswater.Coverandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheatandletitsimmerfor15minutes.

4Workinginbatches,processthemixtureinablenderuntilsmooth.Aseachbatchisblended,pourintoanotherpotovermediumheat.Onceit’sallin,adjusttheconsistency

byaddingmorewater,ifyoulike.Salttotaste.Ladleintobowlsandtopeachservingwithasprinklingofcrumbledapplechipsandchoppedwalnuts,ifdesired.

Moroccan-SpicedEggplantSoup

MOROCCAN-SPICEDEGGPLANTSOUPSERVES6TO8Thissoupfeelsdecadentbecauseofhowsilkyandluxuriouslycreamyitis.You’dthinkit’dbeenbombedwithatonofoilorcream,buttherichnessisallinthetextureoftheeggplantandtheadditionofalmondmilkandalittleGreekyogurt.ItypicallyusetheItalianorglobevarietieswhenIroast,fry,orbreadeggplant.Here,IgoforthesmallerJapaneseeggplants,whichhavefewer,smallerseedsandasweeter,moredelicateflavor.Servingthesoupwithaspoonfulofvinegar-soakedraisinsprovidessomeacidityandapopoftexture.

¼cupextravirginoliveoil2smallyellowonions,chopped1½teaspoonsgroundcinnamon2½teaspoonsgroundcumin2teaspoonsgroundginger1teaspoonturmeric5largeJapaneseeggplants,peeledandchopped(about8cups)Fineseasalt2cupsunsweetenedalmondmilk½cupgoldenraisins1tablespoonwhitewinevinegar¼cupfull-fatplainGreekyogurtplus2tablespoons,forserving½cupslicedalmonds,toasted

1Inalargepot,combinetheoliveoilandonions,thenturntheheattomedium-high.Whentheonionsstarttosizzle,reducetheheattomedium-low.Addthecinnamon,cumin,ginger,andturmericandstirtocoattheonionswiththespices.Coverandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionsaretranslucent,about15minutes.

2Addtheeggplantsandacouplepinchesofsalttothepotandstirtothoroughlycombinewiththeonions.Coverandincreasetheheattomedium.Cook,stirringeveryfewminutes,untiltheeggplantissoftenedanditsvolumehasshrunkinhalf,about15minutes.

3Addthealmondmilkand2cupswater.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor30minutes.

4Whilethesoupsimmers,reconstitutetheraisins.Inasmallbowl,combinetheraisinsandvinegar.Addenoughwarmwatertocoverbyabout¼inch.Setaside.

5Workinginbatchesifnecessary,pourthesoupintoablender.Addtheyogurtandprocessuntilsmooth.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.Ladleintobowlsandgarnishwiththeslicedalmonds,vinegar-soakedraisins,anddollopsofGreekyogurt.

JapaneseSweetPotatoandCauliflowerFrittata

JAPANESESWEETPOTATOANDCAULIFLOWERFRITTATASERVES6TO8Frittatasallowyoutoturnapileofvegetablesintoareallyfillingmeal,sothisisagreatdishtohaveinyourbagoftricks.(Thisisanextra-largefrittata,buttrustme—youwantleftovers.Frittatacoldoutofthefridgeisjustasgoodashotoutofthepan.)Ilikethevegetablestodominatemorethantheegg,andthisparticularlyheartyversiongetsitsflavorfrompan-roastingcauliflowerandJapanesesweetpotatoesuntilthey’resoftandcaramelized.Asfarastechnique,Ifindthattheconventionalrouteofstartingafrittataonthestovetopandfinishingitintheovenisatotalsham.Eitheritcomesoutovercookedanddense,orthetopdoesn’tbrown.Icookafrittatastart-to-finishonthestove,soitgetsnicelybrownedonbothsides.It’salittletrickier(andsomewouldsaymorestressful)becauseyouhavetoflipitandslipitbackintothepan,butthatextraeffortisrewardedwithamoreflavorful,lighterfrittata.Ifyou’renervousaboutit,dotheflipoverthesink.Onceyouacethistechnique,youcanimprovisethefillingbasedonthevegetablesyouhavearound.Japanesesweetpotatoesareburgundy-skinnedbeautieswithoff-whitefleshthattastesmorelikeachestnutthanasweetpotato.IpreferthedrierfleshoftheJapanesevarietyhere,butyoucanswapinregularsweetpotatoes.

7tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil,plusmoreifneeded1smallheadcauliflower,cutintosmallflorets(about3cups)2Japanesesweetpotatoes,halvedlengthwiseandcutinto¼-inch-thickslices(about3cups)1mediumwhiteonion,sliced(about1½cups)Fineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper8largeeggs¼cupwholemilk¼cupfreshlygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese½cupcoarselychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley

1Ina12-inchnonstickskillet,heat3tablespoonsoftheoliveoiloverhighheatuntilitstartstosmoke.Combinethecauliflowerandsweetpotatoesinatightlypackedlayertofillthebottomofthepan.Scattertheonionontopandcookfor1minutewithoutstirring.

2Reducetheheattomedium-high.Add2bigpinchesofsaltandafewgrindsofpepperandcookfor3minutes.Stirthevegetablesandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheyarenicelybrowned,about7minutes.Ifthepanseemsdry,add1teaspoonoliveoil.Reducetheheattomedium,cover,andcook,stirringacoupleoftimes,untilthevegetableshavesoftened,about15minutes.

3Whilethefillingcooks,makethebase.Inabowl,whisktheeggs,milk,3tablespoonsof

theoliveoil,Parmesan,andparsley.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

4Uncovertheskilletandaddsaltandpeppertotaste.Movethevegetablesaroundsotheyfillthepaninanevenlayer.Drizzletheremaining1tablespoonoliveoilaroundtheperimeterofthepan.Cranktheheattohigh.

5Pourtheeggmixtureoverthevegetables.After1minute,reducetheheattomedium.Astheeggstartstoset,useaspatulatopulltheedgesawayfromtherimofthepanandpokeholesacrossthecenter,lettingraweggfillinaroundthecookedvegetables.Adjusttheheat,ifneeded,sotheeggsarelightlybubbling.Continuetogentlylifttheedgesofthefrittataandtiltthepan,souncookedeggseepsunderneath.Cookuntilthere’salmostnorunnyegg,5to6minutes.

6Preparetoflipbyrunningaspatulaaroundtheedges,looseningtheeggfromthepan.Tomakesureitisnotsticking,givethepanashake.Thefrittatashouldmoveasawhole.(Ifitsticks,removethepanfromtheheatandletitsetfor3minutes,thenusethespatulatoloosenthefrittatafromthepan.)

7Putalargeplateovertheskilletandturnthefrittataoverontotheplate.Slidethefrittatabackintothepanandcooktheothersideovermediumheatfor2minutes.Runthespatulaaroundtheedgeagainandflipthefrittataontoaservingplate.Letitrestfor5minutes.Cutandservewarmoratroomtemperature.

BEANS&LENTILS

MYMOMISFROMTUSCANY,LANDofthe“bean-eaters”inItaly,soIgrewupeatingloadsofbeans.Cannellini,chickpeas,andborlotti(cranberrybeans)arekeyplayersinjustabouteveryclassicTuscanmeal,soInaturallyleantowardthese.Goodthingtoo,sinceeatingtheoccasionalbowlofwarm,just-cookedbeansorribollitawasoneofthefewthingsIactuallydidrightinmyolddiet.Beanspackapunchoffiber,andthey’reagreatnonmeatsourceofprotein.Factorinthatthey’reaffordable,readilyavailable,andversatile,andyou’vegotoneofthemostperfectfoods.They’vegonefrommakinganoccasionalappearancetobeingafull-time

kitchenstaple.Mywife,Amanda,makesapotofbeansmostSundays,changingupthebeanofchoiceeachtime,andweturnthemintovariousdishes—salads,soups,dips,younameit.Itreatthemasmorethansimplefillers—theircreamytexture,robustflavor,andrichnessareoftenthefocusofmymeals.Apotoflentilsleadstoasoul-warmingLentilSoupwithTomatoandTuscanKale,chickpeasbecomeamain-coursesaladpunchedupwithwhiteanchoviesandpickledonions,andvelvetycannellinibeansgetanuccelettotreatmentoftomatoesandTuscanherbs.Manyoftherecipesheremakealargequantity.Mythinkingonbeansand

beansoupsisthatifyou’regoingtomakethem,makeabigbatch.Unlikemeatorfish,verylittleextraeffortisneededtomakeabeanrecipethatserves8insteadof4.Also,beansaregreatfreezerfood.Generally,Ifindthatthesimpleprocessofcookingdriedbeansresultsinfarbetterflavoranddensertexturethancannedbeansbecauseyoucontrolthesaltandcookingtime.Cannedbeansaretypicallyovercookedtothepointoffallingapart,andthatthick,goopycannedbeanslimeisnasty.Anytimeyouusestore-boughtbeans,buythelow-sodiumorno-salt-addedvarieties,drain,andthoroughlyrinsethebeansbeforecooking.Gettingonthedriedbeanbandwagoncallsforconqueringanyintimidationorconfusion,soherearemytipstoturningoutakillerpotofbeans:

1Startwithfresh,good-qualitydriedbeans.Thefreshertheyare,thefasterandmoreevenlytheycook.It’salmostimpossibletoidentifyafreshdriedbean,soit’shelpfultolookintothehabitsofthebrandorsupplierofbeansyoubuy.IlikeRanchoGordobecausetheygrowanddrytheirbeansinsmallquantitiesandincludeanexpirationdate.

2Whensoakingbeansovernight,besuretocoverthebeanswithwatersothereareseveralinchesofliquidabovethebeans.Ifsomebeansarestickingoutabovethewaterlinethenextday,it’sasignthatnotenoughwaterwasadded,andthere’snowaythebeansaregoingtocookevenly.

3Cookbeansinaheavypotcoveredbyaninchorsoofwater.Heavypotsdiffuseheatbettersoyourbeanswillcookmoreevenly.

4Thinkoftheliquidyoucookbeansinasablankcanvas.Waterandstockworkequallywell.Ifyouwanttoflavortheliquid,throwinhalfanonionorsomegarliccloves,choppedcarrotorcelery.

5Thebigdebateiswhentosaltthebeans.Iusedtodoitwhenthebeanswerealmostdonecooking,butnowIsoakthedriedbeansinsaltedwater.Asthebeansabsorbtheliquid,theytakeinthesalt.Thismethodgivesyouasuperiorpotofevenlysalted,flavorfulbeanswithsoftskins.

6Storecookedleftoverbeansinsomeoftheircookingliquid—enoughtobarelycoverthem.Thispreventstheskinsfromdryingoutandcracking.Also,severalrecipesherecallforsomeofthebeancookingliquid,whichactsasaflavorfulthickener.WheneverIcookapotofbeans,Ialwayshaveabowlassoonasthey’re

done.There’snothinglikeabowlofjust-cookedchickpeasdressedwhilethey’rehotwithreallygoodoliveoil,seasalt,andfreshlycrackedblackpepper.Ihighlyrecommendtryingthiswithanybeanorlentilyoumake.Beannirvana.

POTOFBEANSMAKES6CUPSMakinghomemadebeansishardlylaborious;itjustrequiresalittleforesight.Somesayit’sunnecessary,butIfindsoakingdriedbeansbeforecookingthemisessentialtoashortercookingtime(nottomentioneasingbeans’notoriouslynoisysideeffect).Anovernightsoakisideal,butthequick-soakmethodnotedhereisgoodinapinch.Thetimeittakestocookapotofbeanscantakeanywherefrom45minutestoupwardsof2hoursdependingonthetype,size,andageofthebeanyou’recooking(chickpeasinparticulartakeawhile).Themethodwillalwaysbethesame,though,soyoucanusethisrecipeforanyvarietyofdriedbean.Ijusthappentousecannellinibeansthemost,innosmallpartbecauseofUccelettoBeansandRibollita.Myquick-soakmethod:Addthebeanstoalargepotandcoverthemwithwaterby4inches.Saltthewater,coverthepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Assoonasitreachesaboil,removefromtheheatandletsitfor1hourcovered.Drainandrinse.

1pounddriedcannellinibeans(oranydriedbean)Fineseasalt1headgarlic1bunchfreshsageExtravirginoliveoil(optional)Freshlycrackedblackpepper(optional)

1Addthebeanstoalargebowlandcoverthemwithwaterbyatleast4inches.Addenoughsaltsothewatertasteslikethesea.Letsitovernight(atleast12hours)atroomtemperature.

2Thenextday,drainthebeans,puttheminaverylargepot,andaddenoughwatertocoverthembyabout2inches.Removeanyloose,paperyouterlayersfromtheheadofgarlicandcutoffabout¼inchofthestemendtoexposethecloves.Addtheheadofgarlicandthesagetothepot.

3Cookthebeansgentlyovermediumheat,adjustingthetemperaturesothewaterbubblesjustoccasionally.Whenthebeanssoften,butarenotquitetender,givethemataste.Ifmoresaltisneeded,additnowsothebeanswillfinishcookinginproperlyseasonedliquid.Continuecookinguntiltheyaresoftandcreamy.Thetimewillvary,butIstartcheckingthemafter30minutesandgenerallyfindthatthey’redonesomewherebetween45minutesand1hour30minutes.

4Servethebeanswarmwitholiveoilandblackpepper.Orcoolthebeans,puttheminaglassstoragecontainer,andaddenoughoftheircookingliquidtofullysubmergethem.Storethemintherefrigeratorforuptoaweek.

FIBERTheBenefitsofRoughingItUntilafewyearsago,theonlytimefiberevercrossedmymindwascatchingarerunoftheclassicSaturdayNightLivecommercialfor“ColonBlow,”ahilariousspoofofhigh-fiber,sticks-and-twigs-stylecereals(ifyou’veneverseenthisgem,taketwominutestowatchitonline).Mostofusassociatefiberwithgooddigestion,buthavenocluewhyit’susefulbeyondthat.IassumedfiberwouldonlybeaconcernwhenIwasanoldmaninneedofColonBlowcereal,prunes,andMetamucil.

Butfiber’simportancebecamecleartomewhenIrealizedthatfillinguponsuperdelicious,high-fiberfoodswasamucheasierapproachtochangingmydietthancaloriecountingandconstanthunger.Foodswithfiberstabilizebloodsugar,digestmoreslowly,andtakeupmorespaceinyourstomach,soyoufeelfullerlonger.It’stoughtogorgeonfiber-richfoods(evenforpeoplelikemewhosuckatself-restraint),sofiberbecamemyinsuranceagainstovereating.Tofeelsatisfiedeatinglow-fiberwhitebread,sliceddelimeat,andcookies,Ihadtorelyonheftyquantities,butIrarelyfeeltheneedtodouble-downonbowlsofWarmLentilSaladorCranberryBeanSoupwithFarrobecausetheircombinationofgreatflavorandhighfiberissogratifying.

Beansarethemostnaturallyrichsourcesoffiber,butallplantfoodshaveit:vegetables,fruits,wholegrains,nuts,andseeds.Fiberisanindigestiblecarbohydratethatcomesintwoforms—solubleandinsoluble.Insolublefiberhelpstohauloutthetrashandtoxins.Itabsorbsliquidinyourstomach,soitexpandsandkeepsthingsmovingthroughyourdigestivetract.Withoutenoughofit,you’dhaveaseriouslyuncomfortablepile-uphappening.Wholegrains,especiallyintactgrains,leafygreens,andtheouterskinsoffruitsandvegetablesaregoodsourcesofinsolublefiber(Ineverpeelfoodslikesweetpotatoesorapplesforthisreason).

Solublefiberattractswaterinyourstomach,formingagelthatbindswithfood,slowingthespeedwithwhichitemptiesfromyourstomach—thisfillsyouupanddelaystheabsorptionofsugar,keepingbloodsugarlevelssteady.You’veheardthateatingawholeappleisbetterthandrinkingthejuice?It’sbecausethesolublefiberintheapple’spulppreventsthebloodsugarspikeandcrashthathappensifyoujusthavethesugaryjuiceonitsown.Foodswithsolublefiber—includingbeans,lentils,oatmeal,andcitrusfruits—arealsoknownforreducingLDL(bad)cholesterollevelsandloweringchancesofaheartattack.

Don’tworryaboutchoosingaspecifictypeoffiber—mostfoodsthatnaturallycontainithavebothinsolubleandsoluble.Justbesureyou’regettingfiberfromreal,wholefoods.Don’trelyonpackagedfoodsthatadvertise“fiberenriched”—thistypeofaddedfiberwon’tsquashhungerorcravings,andtheprocessedstuffinevitablycomeswithquestionableingredientsandfewernutrientsthanwholefoods.

Awordtothewise—ifbeansandotherhigh-fiberfoodsaren’taregularpartofyourmeals,don’timmediatelystartwithbigservingsofthem(unlessyou’repreparedforcrampsandfrequenttripstothebathroom).Startsmall,addtheminslowly,anddrinkatonofwatersoyourbodycangetusedtotheincreaseinfiber.Iworkedmywayup,addingchiaseedstoshakes,choosingintactwholegrainslikequinoaandsweetbrownriceinsteadofwhiterice,andworkingmoreofmyfavoriteclassicbeandisheslikeRibollitaandUccelettoBeansintomyrepertoire.Eatingwithhigh-fiberfoodsinmindtakesawaytheneedtothinkaboutwhatfoodsare“good”or“bad”—anythingnaturallyhighinfibergetsagreenlight.It’sthatsimple.

UccelettoBeans

UCCELETTOBEANSSERVES6MyannualcookingclassatMontecastelliinItalyalwayskicksoffwithaquintessentialTuscanfeast,andwithoutfail,theknockoutdishisuccelettobeanswithporksausage.Tocookbeansucceletto-styleistocookthem“inthemanneroflittlebirds.”It’sareferencetosage,rosemary,tomato,andgarlic—theingredientstraditionallyusedtocooksquabandquailinItaly.Thesebeansaresimple,homey,andprettyglorious.Youcaneasilymakethisintoaone-panmealbybrowningafewlinksofsausageandaddingtheuccelettobeans(cookedwithallthejuicefromthecanoftomatoes)tothepantostewwiththesausages.

3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil,plusmoreforserving4garliccloves,halvedlengthwiseandthinlysliced(about1packedtablespoon)1(28-ounce)canwholepeeledtomatoes,roughlychopped,halfthejuicefromthecanreservedFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshsage2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshrosemary4cupscookedcannellinibeans,or2½(15-ounce)canscannellinibeans,rinsedanddrained¼cupofbeancookingliquidorwater

1Inacold,largehigh-sidedskillet,combinetheoliveoilandgarlic,thenturntheheattohigh.Assoonasthegarlicshowstheslightesttingeofbrown,about2minutesin,stirinthetomatoesandthereservedjuice.Addapinchofsaltandcookfor5minutestoconcentratetheflavorsandreducetheliquid.Addthesage,rosemary,andagenerousamountofpepperandcookfor1minute.

2Addthebeansandtheircookingliquid(or¼cupwater,ifusingcannedbeans).Cookuntilthere’snoliquidpoolingonthebottomofthepanandthesaucecoatsandstickstothebeans,about5minutes.Servewarm,dressedwithpepperandadrizzleofoliveoil.

BEANSANDGREENSSERVES4TO6Duetothedish’ssimplicity,value,andheartygoodness,virtuallyeverycultureIcanthinkofhasitsownversionofbeansandgreens.TheversionIknowbestisItalian-styleescaroleandcannellinibeans,thoughIoftenuseredkidneybeansfortheirabilitytoholdtheirshapeandabsorbflavorsreallywell.Thekeyingredientsherearetheonesyoubarelynotice:Anchoviesaddtheundeniabletastinessofumamiandthestarchybeanliquidhelpstobringthebeansandtendergreenstogether.Asidefrombeingaspeedydishtoputtogether,iteasilyadaptstowhateverbeansandhardygreensyouhaveonhand.Cannellinibeans,chickpeas,kale,mustardgreens,anddandeliongreenshaveallfoundtheirwayintothis—withgreatresults.

2oliveoil–packedanchovyfillets3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil,plusmoreforserving3largegarliccloves,thinlysliced¼teaspoonredpepperflakes1largeheadescarole,corediscarded,leaveswashedandcoarselychoppedFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper2cupscookedredkidneybeans,or1½(15-ounce)cansredkidneybeans,rinsedanddrained¼cupofbeancookingliquidorwaterFreshlygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,forserving

1Mincetheanchoviesandmashintoasmoothpastewiththeflatsideofalargeheavyknife.Addittoalargeskilletwiththeoliveoil,garlic,andpepperflakes.Turntheheattomediumandcookuntiltheanchovymeltsintotheoilandthegarlicjustbeginstobrown,about3minutes.Addtheescarole,apinchofsalt,andafewgrindsofpepper.Increasetheheattomedium-high.Usingtongs,tossthegreenstocoatthemintheoil.Cookuntiltheescaroleiswiltedandhasreleasedabitofliquidinthebottomofthepan,about5minutes.

2Addthekidneybeansandtheircookingliquid(orwater,ifusingcannedbeans)andtoss.Reducetheheattomediumandsimmeruntilthegreensaretenderandtheliquidisabsorbed,about15minutes.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.TopeachservingwithblackpepperandfreshlygratedParmesan.

RIBOLLITASERVES8AnotherofHearth’sgreatesthitsandmyall-timefavoritesoup,ribollitaisamongthefirstrecipesIearmarkedforthisbook.I’vewaxedpoeticaboutthisTuscansoupforyears,butI’verecentlycometoappreciateitasanidealgoodfooddaymeal.Ribollitaisdelicious,heartyperfection—awell-balancedmealoftendervegetablesandplumpcannellinibeansinathick,heartysoup.It’straditionallymadewithalotofbread,butIswapinextracannellinibeansformoreheft.Iwanttotakeaswandiveintoiteverytimeitsaromafillsthekitchen.Youdon’twanttohurrythissoupalong.Stewingthecabbageandkaleintheirownjuicesfor20minutesisacrucialsteptodevelopingthedeepflavorofgoodribollita.You’llbegratefultohaveleftovers,somakeabigpot—it’sevenbetterthenextday.TogettheTuscankaletodispersethroughoutthesoup,itneedstobechoppedintoverysmallpieces.Youcanchopitbyhand,butIgoaneasierroutebyfreezingthebunchesofkaleovernight.Anightinthefreezermakesthekalebrittle,soyoucancrumbletheleavesintoamillionpieces.Thenjustdiscardthethickcenterribs.

2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil3cupsdicedyellowonions3cupsdicedcarrots3cupsdicedceleryFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1headsavoycabbage,chopped(about4cups)⅓cupplus1tablespoontomatopaste4bunchesTuscankale,finelychoppedorcrumbled(about8cups;seenote)10cupsChickenBrothorwater5cupscookedcannellinibeans,or3½(15-ounce)canscannellinibeans,rinsedanddrainedFreshlygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,forservingFreshthymeleaves,forserving

1Inaverylargesouppot,heattheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addtheonions,carrots,celery,andapinchofsalt,andstirtocoatthevegetableswiththeoil.Coverandcookthevegetables,stirringoccasionally,untiltheybegintosoftenbuthavenotdevelopedanybrowning,about10minutes.

2Stirinthesavoycabbage,cover,andcookuntilitbeginstowilt,about3minutes.Addthetomatopaste,stirringtocombineitwiththevegetables.Reducetheheattolow,addthekale,andstirwell.Coverthepotandstewthevegetablesuntilthey’retender,about20minutes.Addthebrothorwater,increasetheheat,andbringthesouptoaboil.

3Whilethesoupiscomingtoaboil,puree3cupsofthebeansinablenderorfood

processor,addingalittlewaterifnecessary.Whiskthepureedbeansintotheboilingsoup.Addtheremaining2cupsofwholebeansandbringthesoupbacktoaboil.Reducetheheatandgentlysimmeruncoveredforabout30minutestoallowtheflavorstocometogether.

4Tasteandseasonwithsaltandlotsofpepper.ServeimmediatelywithfreshlygratedParmesanandthyme.Coolandrefrigerateorfreezeanyleftovers.

CranberryBeanSoupwithFarro

CRANBERRYBEANSOUPWITHFARROSERVES8TowelcomedinnerguestsatHearth,everyoneisgivenashotofsoupbeforetheirmeal,andthisamazinglycreamy,classicTuscanbeansoupisourlatefallandwinteroffering.Thesilkytextureanddeeplysatisfyingflavorgiveitadisguiseofdecadence,thoughit’sreallyawholesome,fiber-richsoupofbasicingredients.I’mcrazyforvaryingtexturesinadish,sowhenImakethisathomeIaddcookedgrainsforabitofchewiness.Ilikefarrobest,butbrownriceandbarleyaregoodalternatives.Aswithanypureedsoup,thisfreezeswellwithnolossoftasteortexture.Ratherthancuttherecipeinhalf,bekindtoyourfutureselfandfreezeanyleftoversinsingle-ordouble-servingcontainers.

3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil,plusmoreforserving2mediumonions,chopped(about2cups)3smallcarrots,chopped(about1cup)3celerystalks,chopped(about1cup)8garliccloves,peeledandsmashedwiththeflatsideofaknife3oliveoil–packedanchovyfilletsFineseasalt1tablespoontomatopaste1pounddriedcranberrybeans,soaked(usingovernightorquick-soakmethod)anddrainedBouquetgarni(afewsprigseachoffreshthyme,rosemary,andsage,tiedtogetherwithkitchentwine),plusextrathymeforgarnish1½cupscookedfarroFreshlygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,forserving

1Inalargesouppot,heattheoliveoiloverhighheat.Whentheoilishotandslideseasilyacrossthepan,addtheonions,carrots,celery,garlic,anchovies,andacoupleofpinchesofsalt.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilthevegetablesaresoftandlightlybrowned,about10minutes.

2Addthetomatopaste,stirringwelltocoatthevegetables.Reducetheheattomedium-lowandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthemixturehasthickenedanddarkened,about10minutes.

3Stirinthebeans,10cupswater,thebouquetgarni,andacoupleofpinchesofsalt.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat,thenreducetoagentlesimmer(thereshouldonlybealittlemovementintheliquid).Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilthebeansaresoftandcreamy,anywherefrom1to2hours.(Thisisaforgivingsoup,sodon’tworryaboutovercookingit.)

4Removethebouquetgarni.Workinginbatches,pureethesoupinablenderandaddtoanotherlargepotovermediumheat.Addsaltandpeppertotasteandadjusttheconsistencywithmorewaterorbroth,ifneeded.

5Toserve,put2generoustablespoonsoffarroineachservingbowl,ladleacupofsoupoverit,andgarnishwithfreshthyme,freshlygratedParmesan,andafewdotsofoliveoil.

LentilSoupwithTomatoandTuscanKale

LENTILSOUPWITHTOMATOANDTUSCANKALESERVES8TO10Thisisanunbelievablyheartyvegetariansoupforwhenyougointohibernationmodeinthechillymonths(andwithleftoversthatfreezewell,youcangooutevenless).Thedeeprichnessofsoffritoinfusessomuchflavor,there’snoneedforbrothormeattomakethissoupshine.Youwantalentilthatbreaksdownabit,sogowithbrownlentilsratherthanFrenchgreenPuylentils.Thethicknessofthesoupisamatterofpersonalpreference.Ilikeitthick,soIpureeaportionofthelentilsandsticktoonly2cupsofwateraddedintheend.Ifabrothyconsistencyisyourthing,skippureeingthelentilsandaddmorewater.CountlessclassicItaliansoups,stews,andsaucesstartwiththeknock-your-socks-offflavorofsoffrito,mincedvegetablessoftlyfriedinagenerousamountofoliveoil.ThiscornerstoneofItaliancookingisusuallymadeofonions,carrots,andeitherceleryorfennel,alongwithotheraromatics(likeherbs,tomatoes,anddriedpeperoncini)thatvarydependingonwhatyou’remaking.Makesurethevegetablesaremincedandthattheyarefriedinsizzlingoliveoil.Thelongersoffritocooks,themorecolorandcomplexityitdevelops.It’sanincredibleflavorbooster.

LENTILS

1headgarlic1poundbrownlentils½yellowonion1carrot,peeledandhalvedlengthwise1celerystalk,cutintolargepieces1bayleafFineseasalt

SOFFRITOANDVEGETABLES

1mediumredonion,coarselychopped(about2cups)2smallcarrots,coarselychopped(about1cup)2celerystalks,coarselychopped(about1cup)1tablespoonfreshrosemaryleaves1tablespoonfreshthymeleaves½cupextravirginoliveoil,plusmoreforserving1tablespoontomatopaste1(14.5-ounce)canwholepeeledtomatoeswiththeirjuicesFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1bunchTuscankale,stemsandcenterribsremoved,leaveswashedand

coarselychoppedFreshlygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,forserving

1Forthelentils:Removetheouterlayersfromtheheadofgarlicandcutoffabout¼inchofthestemendtoexposethecloves.Addthelentilstoalargepotandcoverthemby2incheswithwater.Addtheonion,carrot,celery,bayleaf,theheadofgarlic,andacoupleofpinchesofsalt.Bringthelentilstoaboiloverhighheat,reducetheheattoasimmer,andcookuntilthelentilsarecreamyandtender,about40minutes.

2Removeanddiscardtheonion,carrot,celery,bayleaf,andgarlic.Usinganimmersionblender,pureeaboutone-thirdofthelentils.(Orscoopone-thirdofthelentilsintoastandardblenderandpuree,thenaddbacktothepot.)

3Forthesoffrito:Inafoodprocessor,combinetheredonion,carrots,celery,rosemary,andthymeandpulseuntilthevegetablesareminced.Addthemixturetoaseparatelargesouppotalongwiththeoliveoil.Turntheheattohighandfrythevegetables,stirringoccasionally,untiltheysoftenandcolorslightly,10to12minutes.

4Addthetomatopaste,cannedtomatoeswiththeirjuice,andacouplepinchesofsalttothesoffritoandstir.Reducetheheattomedium-highandcookfor10minutes.Addthekaleandanotherpinchofsalt,stirringtocoattheleaves.Reducetheheattomediumandcookfor10minutes,untilthekaleissoft.

5Pourthelentilsintothepotofvegetablesandstir.Addabout2cupswater,alittleatatime,tothinthesoup(itcanbemoreorlesswater,dependingonthelevelofthicknessyouprefer).Increasetheheattohighandbringtoaboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerforabout30minutestoallowtheflavorstocometogether.Tasteandaddsalt,ifneeded.Servewithblackpepper,Parmesan,andadrizzleofoliveoil.

ChickpeaCrepeSandwicheswithZucchini,Tomato,andMozzarella

CHICKPEACREPESANDWICHESWITHZUCCHINI,TOMATO,ANDMOZZARELLAMAKES4SANDWICHESMywife,Amanda,startedmakinggluten-freecrepes(recipefollows)asabreadalternative,andI’mnutsforthem.They’reverysimilartocecina,apopularItalianstreetfoodmadeofchickpeaflour,oliveoil,salt,andwater.Thesesturdycrepesaretheperfectportablesandwichpocketsforlunchorsnackswhenyou’retraveling.I’vegivenyoumyfavoritesandwichversionhere:acombinationofsautéedzucchiniwithtomatoesandmozzarella.

4ChickpeaCrepes(recipefollows)2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil3mediumzucchini,slicedinto¼-inchroundsFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1mediumonion,sliced¼cupcoarselychoppedfreshbasil8slicesfreshmozzarella(6to8ounces)12cherrytomatoes,halved

1Makethechickpeacrepes.

2Inalargeskillet,heattheoiloverhighheat.Whenthefirstwispsofsmokecomeoffthepan,addthezucchiniandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Piletheonionontopandcookthevegetableswithoutstirringuntilyoubegintoseecolorontheedgesofthezucchini,about2minutes.Stirandcontinuecookinguntilthevegetablesaresoftandnicelybrowned,about10minutes.Foldinthechoppedbasil.

3Topeachchickpeacrepewithone-fourthofthezucchinimixture,2slicesofcheese,andahandfuloftomatoes.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,thenfoldthecrepearoundthefillingandeatitlikeataco.

CHICKPEACREPESMAKESABOUT5CREPES

Weaddarrowrootpowdertothecrepebattertocreateindividual6-inchcrepessturdyenoughtoholdacomboofveggies,cheese,orscrambledeggsforsandwiches.Occasionally,wepunchupthebatterwithspicesandfinelychoppedherbs(seeVariations,below)andeatthecrepesontheirown.Makeabatchaheadandwraptheminfoiluntilyou’rereadytoreheatthem.Or,makethebatterandkeepinthefridgeforuptoaweek,cookingcrepesasneeded.

2cupschickpeaflour

1cuparrowrootflour

1teaspoonfineseasalt

½teaspoonbakingsoda

Extravirginoliveoil

1Inalargebowl,whisktogetherthechickpeaflour,arrowrootflour,salt,andbakingsoda.Whiskin¾cupwater.Thencontinueaddingwater,¼cupatatime,whiskingbetweenadditions,untilthebatter’sconsistencyissmoothandvelvetywithnolumps,thinnerthanpancakebatter,butstillthickenoughtocoataspoon.

2Ina10-inchskillet,heat1teaspoonoliveoiloverhighheat.Whentheoilmovesquicklyacrossthepan,pour½cupofbatterinthecenterofthepan.Quicklyspreadthebatterintoathincirclebytiltingthepanaroundinacircularmotionorusingthebackofaspoon.Reducetheheattomedium-high.Cookforabout2minutes,oruntilyoustarttoseeairbubblesandholesinthecrepe.Flipitandcookforanotherminute.Removeitfromthepan.Repeatwithmoreoilandtheremainingbatter,stackingthefinishedcrepesonaplateasyougo.

Variations•1tablespoonfinelychoppedrosemaryandgratedzestof1smalllemon

•Add1½teaspoonsgarammasalatothebatter;cookthecrepesinvirgincoconutoilinsteadofoliveoil•1tablespoonsmokedpaprika

•1tablespooncurrypowder

•2tablespoonschoppedscallions

ChickpeaandWhiteAnchovySalad

CHICKPEAANDWHITEANCHOVYSALADSERVES6Here’soneforyournextparty.Thiseasy,inexpensivebeansaladlooksawesomepiledontoaplatterandservedfamily-stylewithafewwholewhiteanchovyfilletsontop.Thebrightflavors,creamy-crunchytexture,andheartinessfullydeliveronitsvisualpromise.Thisisalargeamount,soifyou’reafterasimplelunchtohavearoundforafewdays,youcanhalvetherecipewithnoissues.Lookformarinatedwhiteanchoviesintherefrigeratedcases,oftennearthecheeseandolives.Whiteanchoviesarecuredinvinegarandtastelessintensethanthesaltyoil-packedbrownanchoviesinatin.There’snosubstitutingonefortheother.Theceleryheartisthegroupofpalegreen,tender,mildlyflavoredstalksatthecenterofthebunch.Theleavesonthesestalkshaveatonofgreatflavor,sothinkofthemasanherbtochopupandaddtosaladsandsoups.

½redonion,thinlyslicedFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperRedwinevinegar3cupscookedchickpeasor2(15-ounce)canschickpeas,rinsedanddrained¼poundmarinatedwhiteanchovyfillets,drainedandcutinto¼-inchchunks(about½cup)1cupslicedceleryheartstalksandleaves½cuppackedchoppedfreshflat-leafparsley½cupthinlyslicedradishes(about5medium)¼cupextravirginoliveoil

1Topickletheonion,addtheslicestoasmallbowlwithasprinkleofsaltandjustenoughredwinevinegartocover(about3tablespoons).Setasidetopickleforatleast15minutes.

2Inalargebowl,combinethechickpeas,anchovies,celery,parsley,radishes,andacoupleofbigpinchesofsaltandpepper.Addtheoliveoilandthepickledonionsalongwiththeirpicklingliquid.Tosseverythingtogether.Tasteandadjustthesaltandpepper,ifnecessary.

WarmLentilSalad

WARMLENTILSALADSERVES8Thisisanidealmake-aheadsalad,andprobablytheoneImakethemost.Ithasnoseasonalboundariesandcomestogetherwithlittleeffort,anditsrich,earthyflavorissatisfyingoneverylevel.Ialwaysmakeabigportionbecauseitholdswellinthefridge,butyoucaneasilyhalveitifyou’recookingforoneortwo.Puylentils,asmall,greenFrenchvariety,arethemostsalad-friendlybecausetheyretaintheirshapeandfirmtexturethroughthecookingprocess.Brownlentilsalsowork,butyellowandredlentilsaren’tdurableenoughandtendtogetmushy.Thissaladisplentysubstantialonitsown,butthatshouldn’tstopyoufromoccasionallytossinginacupofbocconcini,smallballsofmozzarellacheese.Ialsolikeabowlofthistoppedwithapieceofsearedsalmonordrapedwithafriedegg.Unlikedriedbeans,lentilsdon’tneedpresoaking,andtheycookquickly—idealforquickweeknightmeals.Youcancertainlyskipthesaladingredientshereandkeepthesimplepotoflentilsaroundfortossinginsoupsandgreensalads.

1poundFrenchgreenlentils,rinsed½whiteonion,peeledbutcoreintact3bayleaves2garliccloves,peeled1carrot,peeledandquarteredlengthwise1tablespoonfineseasalt2bunchesscallions,whiteandpalegreenpartsonly,thinlysliced½cuppackedchoppedfreshflat-leafparsley¼cupredwinevinegar¼cupextravirginoliveoilFreshlygroundblackpepper

1Inalargepot,combinethelentils,onion,bayleaves,garlic,carrot,andsalt.Coverby2incheswithcoldwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattoasimmerandcookuntilthelentilsaretender,butnotfallingapart,17to20minutes.Setthepotasideuntilthelentilsarecoolenoughtohandle.

2Drainthelentils,allowingthemtositinthestrainerforacoupleofminutes.Removeandtossoutthebayleaves,garlic,andonion.Removethepiecesofcarrot,slicethem,andaddtoalargebowlalongwiththescallions,parsley,anddrainedlentils.Dresswiththevinegarandoliveoilandtosstocombine.Addsaltandpeppertotaste.

BLACKBEANDIPMAKES4CUPSBeandipsarecreamybynature,butaddingoliveoilandavocadoresultsinsupremesmoothnessandfull-bodiedflavor.Theyalsolightentheconsistencyofthedip,makingitlessgrainyandmorepliable—nobreakingyourcornchipsinthick,sludgybeandip.I’mnotwildaboutspicyfood,butifyoulikein-your-faceheat,byallmeansaddhalfachoppedjalapeño,orafewdashesofhotsauceorcayennepepper.Foralittletexturecontrast,youcouldgarnishthiswithmincedredonionorslicedscallions.Servewithcornchipsorslicedradishes,carrots,andcelerysticks.

3cupscookedblackbeansor2(15-ounce)cansblackbeans,rinsedanddrained1teaspoonchoppedgarlic2tablespoonsfreshlimejuice½cuplooselypackedcilantroleaves½avocado,peeledFineseasalt½cupextravirginoliveoil

Inafoodprocessor,combinethebeans,garlic,limejuice,cilantro,avocado,andabigpinchofsalt.Withtheprocessorrunning,addtheoliveoilinaslow,steadystreamuntilthedipissmooth.Tasteandaddmoresalt,ifneeded.

SUNFLOWERSEEDHUMMUSMAKES4CUPSThiswillhangoutinthefridgeallweeklong,readyforspreadingonsandwiches,vegetabledipping,or—myfavoriteuse—slatheringontoastedryebreadforbreakfast.Swappingaportionofchickpeasforsunflowerseedsgivesthishummusanuttierflavorandairytexture.Toboostthecreaminessofyourhummus,alwaysusewarmbeans(andseeds,inthiscase).They’resofterandbreakdowntoavelvetyconsistency.Ifyou’reusingleftoverorcannedchickpeas,heatthemthroughwiththeircookingliquid(orwater—don’tusetheliquidinthecan)beforeaddingtothefoodprocessor.Mashingthemincedgarlicwithaknifefirstwillhelpitdistributeevenlythroughoutthehummus.ServeonapieceoftoastedAmanda’sBreadorwithslicedrawvegetables.Ifsettingthisoutasadipforguests,sprinklecumin,paprika,andafewsunflowerseedsontop,andgiveitadrizzleofoliveoil.

1cupunsaltedrawsunflowerseeds3cupswarm,cookedchickpeasor2(15-ounce)canschickpeas,rinsedanddrained2tablespoonsbeancookingliquidorwater1teaspoonmincedgarlic,mashedwithaknife¼cupfreshlemonjuice½cuplooselypackedflat-leafparsleyleavesFineseasalt1cupextravirginoliveoil

1Inasmallsaucepan,combinethesunflowerseedsand1cupwater.Bringtoaboil,thenremovethepanfromtheheat.Drainthesunflowerseeds.

2Inafoodprocessor,combinethesoftenedsunflowerseeds,chickpeas,beanliquid(orwater,ifusingcannedbeans),garlic,lemonjuice,parsley,andagenerouspinchofsalt.Withtheprocessorrunning,addtheoliveoilinaslow,steadystreamuntilthedipissmooth.Tasteandaddmoresaltorlemonjuice,ifneeded.

GREATGRAINS

INMYYEARSASACOOKATGramercyTaverninNewYorkCity,ifsomeonetoldmeI’dlaterdedicateanentirechapterofacookbooktothevirtuesofwholegrains,Iwouldhavelaughedattheabsurdityofthesuggestion.Grainswereinnowaycompellingtome—itwouldhaveseemedaslikelyasmewritingabookoncakedecorating.Butevenbackthen,GramercyTavernhadastrangedishonthemenuwitha

tinygraincalledamaranth.Partofwhatmadeitstrangewasmyunfamiliaritywithamaranth,whichseemedlikenothingmorethanbirdseedtome.Inthecategoryoffrumpy,uninspiringhealthfood,Igenerallyconsideredmostwholegrainstorankonlymarginallyhigherthancottagecheese.Igrewuphavingpastatwoorthreenightsaweek,sotheextentofmyexposuretograinswasfarro(stilloneofmyfavorites)andrice,eitherinrisottoorasabowlofregularCarolinawhitericewithbutter.Butbuildinganewhealthydietmeantembracinggrains.They’restellar

sourcesoffiberandcomplexcarbohydrates,thetypeofcarbsthattakelongertodigest.Gettingintowholegrainsheldpracticalappeal,andthecookinmewaspsychedbecauseIcouldgeekoutexperimentingwiththemassivevarietyoutthere,fromthemildnessofmillettonuttybarleyandsmokyfreekeh.Now,I’mhooked.Mycurrentobsessionisbrownsweetrice:Asitcooks,it

letsoutsomestickinessanddevelopsacreamytextureunlikeanyotherbrownriceI’vetried.Ihaveitalongwithamountainofroastedvegetables,orItreatitlikeArborioriceandmakerisottooutofit.AnothergrainIpracticallyface-diveintoisredquinoa—Ifindredquinoahasmorestructureandanuttiertastethanthewhitequinoa,thoughthey’reequallynutritious.Lessbuzzed-aboutbutjustasgoodisthatfamousamaranth,oneofthegrainsthatstartedmywholebirdseednonsense.Iwassurprisedtolearnthatwhencooked,it’ssimilartopolentainthewayitreleasesalotofstarchandbecomesinsanelycreamy.There’sadecadentvibetoit.Ifindgrainsfascinating.Ilovehowtheyaddtexture,chew,andcomplexityto

dishes.Everytypeactsandtastesdifferently,givingyouendlessoptionstoexploreinyourcooking.Andthereareaslewofapproachestomakinggrainsexciting,ifyoucookthemproperlyandthrowintherightcompanions.

BASICQUINOAMAKES3CUPSIfyouhaveanyskepticismabouttheappealofgrains,quinoashouldbeyourgatewaygrain.Quinoa’ssubtle,nuttyflavorandspringy,chewytextureareincrediblyversatile,anditcooksin15minutesflat.Likerice,quinoaisgluten-free,butit’smoregenerousinthefiberdepartmentandisprotein-rich,makingitago-tograinformeatlessmeals.Whitequinoaisthemostcommonvariety,butyou’llfindredandblacktoo.Wemakeabatchacoupleoftimesaweekanduseitasabaseforsalads,tossitwithleafygreensforaddedtexture,andsprinkleitoverroastedvegetableslikeBrusselssproutsorcarrots.Iespeciallyloveafewspoonfulsofquinoastirredinabroth-basedsoupbecauseitremindsmeofpastina,thosetinystar-shapedpastas.Initsnaturalstate,quinoaiscoatedinbitter-tastingcompoundscalledsaponinsthatareusuallywashedoffbeforeyoubuyit.Notallpackagingtellsyouifquinoahasbeenprewashed,though(andyouwon’tknowifyoubuyquinoafromabulkbin),soit’sagoodideatogiveitanextrarinse.

1cupquinoa2cupsbroth(forricher-tastingquinoa)orwater¼teaspoonfineseasalt

1Putthequinoainafine-meshstrainerandrinseitundercoldwater,swishingthequinoaaroundwithyourhand.Drainthoroughly.

2Inasaucepan,combinethequinoa,broth,andsaltandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmeruntilalltheliquidisabsorbed,about15minutes.Thequinoashouldlooktranslucentandhavetinywhitespirals(theoutergerm)aroundeachseed.

3Removethepotfromtheheatandletitsitfor5minutes,covered.Fluffthequinoawithaforkandserve.Storeleftoverquinoaintherefrigeratorforupto5days.

QuinoaPanzanella

QUINOAPANZANELLASERVES4Igrewupeatingloadsofpanzanellaeverysummer.WhileIlovetheclassicTuscanbread-and-tomatosalad,I’vefoundwhitequinoamakesadamngoodversion.What’scoolaboutthequinoahereisitsabsorptionpower:Justlikebread,itsoaksupalltheflavorfuljuicesfromthemixtureofripetomatoes,oliveoil,cucumber,basil,redonion,andcapers.Tomakeitmoreofameal,mymomoccasionallyaddedacanofoliveoil–poachedtunatoherpanzanellasalad.Inmyversion,freshwildsalmonstepsin.Theflavorspopalittlemorewhenthisisservedsoonafterassembly,whilethesalmonisstillwarm.Butyoucanstillexpectatastyresultifyoumakeitacoupleofhoursaheadoftime,refrigerateit,andservelateratroomtemperature.Ifyoudothis,leaveoutthetomatoesandtossthoseinjustbeforeserving,sotheydon’tmakethesaladsoggyintherefrigerator.Don’tpressonorfiddlewiththesalmon.Fishwantstobeleftaloneasitcooks.

Withoutthesalmon,thissaladisstilldeliciousandfillingenoughforalightmealbecausethequinoaprovidesprotein.Italsoworkswellasasidedishtoanyroastedfish.

SALMON

1(8-ounce)skin-onwildsalmonfilletFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoonextravirginoliveoil

SALAD

½mediumredonion,diced½pintcherrytomatoes,quartered½cucumber,quarteredlengthwiseandthinlyslicedcrosswise½cupfreshbasilleaves,chopped2tablespoonscapers(inbrineorsalt-packed),rinsed1½cupscooked,roomtemperaturewhitequinoa¼cupredwinevinegar¼cupextravirginoliveoilFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Forthesalmon:Seasonthesalmononbothsideswithsaltandpepper.

2Ina10-inchskillet,heattheoliveoiloverhighheat.Asthefirstwispsofsmokecomeofftheoil,addthefishtothepanskin-sidedownandcookfor2minutes.Reducetheheattomedium-highandcookuntiltheskinbeginstobrown,4to5minutes.Usingaspatula,flipthefishandcookuntilitfeelsslightlyfirmwhenyoupressonit,about2minutes.

3Transferthefillettoacuttingboardskin-sideup.Peelofftheskinanduseaknifeto

gentlyscrapeawaythegraybloodline.Withafork,flakethefilletintolittlepieces.

4Forthesalad:Inalargebowl,combinetheonion,tomatoes,cucumber,basil,andcapers.Addthecooledquinoa,flakedsalmon,vinegar,andoliveoilandtosswell.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

THEWHOLETRUTHABOUTWHOLEGRAINSYouknowtheterm“wholegrain”isflawedwhenyoucruisethecerealaisleatyourgrocerystoreandseerowsofboxesfeaturingcartoonleprechaunsandtoucansboasting“madewithwholegrains!”nexttoingredientlistsfilledwithsugarsandartificialcoloring.Ifthiskindoffluffcansportawhole-grainlabel,howarewesupposedtoknowwhatwholegrainsarethegenuinearticle?

Thiscallsforalookinsideakernelofgrain.First,there’sthehull—thetoughandusuallyinedibleoutermostlayer.Thencometheintegralbranandgermlayers,hometoflavor,fiber,protein,essentialfattyacids,vitamins,andminerals.Finally,there’sthestarchyendosperm.Whengrainsarerefined,thenutrient-packedgermandbranarestrippedawayandonlytheendospermisused.TherefinedresultisthesimplecarbohydratejunkthatIusedtoeatinmountainousportions:starchy,fiber-deprivedfoodslikewhiteflour,bagels,andwhitebreadthathavethesamenegativeeffectsaseatingapileofsugar.

Awholegraincontainstheentiregrainkernel—thebran,germ,andendosperm.ButaccordingtotheU.S.FoodandDrugAdministration,afoodcanbelabeledwholegrainevenifthesethreecomponentsarenolongerintact.Thismeansmanufacturerscanblastthemapartandpulverizethembeforeincorporatingthemintofoodslike“wholegrain”cerealwithrainbowmarshmallows.Processingextendsshelflife,butreducesgrains’vitamin,fiber,andantioxidantcontentandraisestheirglycemicindex.Also,whengrainsareground,theinsidesofthekernelsareexposedtoairandstarttooxidize,becomingabreedinggroundforfreeradicals.Toomuchexposuretofreeradicalsandyouraisethestakesonage-relateddisease(seemoreonthis).

Understandingthatgrainprocessingtakesatolldoesn’tmeanyouhavetothrowinthetowelonthementirely.Eventhoughthey’reprocessed,thewholewheatpastasinthischapterandtheryebreadIuseforbreakfastsandwichesareundoubtedlymorenutritionallylegitandflavorfulthananyrefinedgrainoptions.Justmakesurethatwholegrainislistedasthefirstingredientandthattherearenoaddedsugars.

Fortheabsolutebestwhole-grainsourcesoffiber,naturallyoccurringvitamins,anddiabetesandheartdiseasedefense,chooseintactwholegrains.Unliketheirground-upcounterparts,intactgrainshavegonethroughrelativelylittleprocessing—youcanstillseethegrainkernel—andtheytakelongertodigest,delayinghungerandgivingyoulastingenergy.Intactgrainslikequinoa,brownrice,farro,freekeh,andmilletmakeupmostofthischapter,andthesteel-cutoatsandbuckwheatgroatsinthebreakfastchapterfitthebilltoo.Whileit’ssmarttochoosewholewheatbreadoverwhitebread,therealslamdunkistradingbreakfasttoastforabowlofsteel-cutoatsandreplacingafewsandwicheswithgrainsalads.

ShavedAsparagus,Avocado,andQuinoaSalad

SHAVEDASPARAGUS,AVOCADO,ANDQUINOASALADSERVES4TheinspirationforthissaladcamefrommyfriendJimLahey,whohasakillerpizzarestaurantcalledCo.aroundthecornerfromwhereIlive.Theymakeagreensaladofshavedrawasparagusandchunksofcreamyavocadothatluresmeinasmuchasthepizzadoes.Myriffonthesaladhasredquinoaforproteinandanotherlayeroftexture,plusahandfuloffreshmint,scallions,andasqueezeoflimejuice.Anyvarietyofquinoaworks,butIpreferredforitsdeeper,nuttierflavorandthecolorcontrastitadds.

1bunchasparagus(mediumorfatstalksarebest)1avocado,cutinto½-inchchunks1bunchscallions,whiteandpalegreenpartsonly,thinlysliced½cupfreshmintleaves,tornwithyourfingers1½cupscooked,roomtemperatureredquinoaJuiceof1lime¼cupextravirginoliveoilFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Workingoveracuttingboard,shavetheasparagusintothinribbonsbyholdingthetoughendofthespearandusingavegetablepeelertopeeltowardthetip.Throwawaythetoughendsafterpeeling.

2Piletheasparagusribbonsinalargesaladbowlandaddtheavocado,scallions,mint,andquinoa.Dresswiththelimejuiceandoliveoilandaddsaltandpeppertotaste.Tossgentlytoavoidmashinguptheavocadochunks.

FreekehwithSugarSnapPeas,SpringOnions,andFreshHerbs

FREEKEHWITHSUGARSNAPPEAS,SPRINGONIONS,ANDFRESHHERBSSERVES4TO6I’mtotallyenamoredwiththesmokyflavoroffreekeh.It’satypeofwheatharvestedwhileit’sstillyoung,thensun-driedinpiles,setonfiretoroast,andrubbedtoremovethecharredhusks.Freekeh’sdistinctivetoasty,grassynotespairbestwithbrightflavorslikethecrunchy,freshspringvegetablesandfreshherbsinthissalad.Thoughittakeslongertocook,Ipreferthechewiertextureofwholefreekehtothesmallpiecesofcrackedfreekeh.Bothvarietieshavedoublethefiberofquinoa,andmorenutrientsthanothertypesofwheat.FreekehishardertofindthanothergrainsIuse,butnaturalfoodsstoresandonlinefoodretailersaresafebets.I’malwayspsychedtoseespringonionsshowupatthefarmers’marketinMay.Theylooklikescallionswithabiggerwhitebulb.Ilovetheslightlysharper,brighterflavorofspringonionsandusethemwhereverpossiblefortheshorttimethey’reinseason.

Boilingthesugarsnappeasfor30secondstakestherawedgeoffwhilemaintainingtheircrunch.Italsobringsoutamorevibrantgreencolor.

1cupwholefreekehFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper2cupssugarsnappeas,stemendsandstringsremoved4smallspringonions(or2bunchesscallions),whiteandpalegreenpartsonly,thinlysliced(about¾cup)5radishes,diced2tablespoonschoppedfreshbasilleaves2tablespoonschoppedfreshmint2tablespoonsredwinevinegar3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil

1Inapot,combinethefreekeh,5cupswater,andacoupleheftypinchesofsaltandbringthemixturetoaboil.Reducetheheat,cover,andsimmeruntilthegrainsaretenderbutstillhavesomebite,about45minutes.Drainthefreekeh,lettingitsitinthecolanderforafewminutestoremovealltheliquid.(Otherwisethedressingwon’tadheretothegrains.)Transferthefreekehtoalargebowlandsetasidetocool.

2Bringapotofwatertoaboil.Dropinthesugarsnappeasandboiluntilthey’rebrightgreen,about30seconds.Strainthepeasintoacolanderandruncoldwateroverthem.Drainthepeasuntiltheyarecompletelydry,thencutcrosswiseinto¼-inchpieces.

3Addthechoppedpeas,onions,radishes,basil,mint,vinegar,andoliveoiltothebowloffreekeh.Tosstocombineandseasontotastewithsaltandpepper.

BASICFARROMAKES5CUPSImayspendqualitytimewithquinoa,sweetbrownrice,andtheothergrainsI’vecometoloveinrecentyears,butfarrowillbeinregularrotationinmykitchenforever.It’sanintegralwheatgraininItaliancooking,andforaslongasIcanrememberI’veloveditsearthy,nutty,slightlysweetflavor.Whenit’scookedwell,farroistenderandchewywithabitoffirmnessatitscenter.Packingmoreproteinandfiberthanbrownrice,farromakesafillingsaladandaddstextureandheartinesstosoups.Youcanfinditinmostgourmetgroceries,Italianspecialtyshops,andnaturalfoodsstores.Farroisnotgluten-free,butithasalowglutencontentthatpeoplewithamildsensitivitytowheatmaybeabletotolerate.

2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil1smallyellowonion,quarteredthroughthecore1smallcarrot,quarteredlengthwise1smallcelerystalk,halvedlengthwiseandcrosswiseFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper2cupsfarro

1Inalargepot,heattheoliveoilovermedium-lowheat.Addtheonion,carrot,celery,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Stirthevegetablestothoroughlycoatthemwiththeoil.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andcookuntilthevegetablessoften,about10minutes.

2Addthefarroandstirtocoatitwiththeoilandvegetables.Addenoughwatertocoverthefarrobyabout½inch.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowandsimmeruntilthefarroistender,about20minutes.Ifthepotlooksdry,addacoupletablespoonsofwater.Removeanddiscardthevegetables.Servethefarrowarm,orletitcoolcompletelybeforestoringintherefrigeratorforupto4days.

CRUNCHYSPRINGFARROSALADSERVES4TO6Withapremadebatchoffarroattheready,thissimultaneouslylightandsubstantialsaladisreadyinlessthan10minutes.ItisexactlythewayIenjoyedfarrogrowingup—tossedwithcrunchyvegetablesfromthegarden,afreshherb,andgood-qualityoliveoilandvinegar.Don’tletitssimplicityfoolyou—there’sagreatcontrastofbrightandearthy,coolandpepperyflavorsworkingtogether.ThisisgreatalongsideHerb-RoastedSpatchcockChicken.Incoldermonths,tradethesummervegetablesandbasilfordicedandroastedwintersquashandthyme,anddressitwithHoney-CiderVinaigrette.

4cupscooked,roomtemperaturefarro½pintcherrytomatoes,halved½cupthinlyslicedradishes½cucumber,quarteredlengthwiseandthinlyslicedcrosswise1bunchscallions,whiteandpalegreenpartsonly,thinlysliced¼cupchoppedfreshbasil3tablespoonsredwinevinegar¼cupextravirginoliveoilFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Inalargebowl,combinethefarro,tomatoes,radishes,cucumber,scallions,andbasilandtosswiththevinegarandoliveoil.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

Mushroom,Barley,andKaleSoup

MUSHROOM,BARLEY,ANDKALESOUPSERVES6TO8Thismeat-freeumami-bombsoupisimmenselysatisfyingandfull-flavored.Theliquidusedtorehydratedriedshiitakeandporcinimushroomscreatesarichbroththat’sboostedbyearthy,freshcreminimushroomsandthesavorydepthoftomatopasteandanchovies(thesetwomeltawayintothebackgroundofthesoup,soyouwon’tbeabletoidentifythem).Theheadylayersofumamiaregroundedbythenuttinessandchewy,pastaliketextureofbarley.Itshighfibercontentmakessoupsespeciallyfilling.Ittakestimetodevelopthedeepflavorshere,sothisisn’tafastone.Makeitovertheweekend,letitcool,andthenrefrigerateorfreezeitforquickmealsduringtheweek.Mostgrainshavefiberonlyintheirouterbranlayer,butthefiberinbarleyisdistributedthroughoutthewholekernel.So,eventhoughthebranlayerisremovedfrompearlbarley,itstillhassignificantamountsoffiber.Youcouldusehulledbarleyhere,thetypethatstillhasthebranlayer,butittakesatleastanhourlongertocookthanpearlbarley.

I’mpartialtoTuscankale,butanytypeofkaleworkswell.

½ouncedriedporcinimushrooms½ouncedriedshiitakemushrooms¾cuppearlbarley2bayleaves3sprigsoffreshthymetiedwithkitchenstring,plus1tablespoonchoppedthymeleaves½mediumyellowonion,quarteredthroughthecoreFineseasalt3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil1teaspoonanchovypaste(orwholeanchovieschoppedandmashedintoapaste)1largecarrot,cutintomediumdice(about1cup)1largeyellowonion,diced(about1cup)4largegarliccloves,finelychopped1½tablespoonstomatopaste10ouncesfreshcreminimushrooms,halvedlengthwiseandslicedcrosswise(about3cups)1bunchkale,stemsandcenterribsremoved,leaveschoppedintobite-sizepiecesFreshlygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,forservingFreshlycrackedblackpepper

1Inalargebowl,combinethedriedporciniandshiitakemushroomswith4cupsveryhotwaterandletsoakfor10minutes.Squeezethemushroomsoverthebowltoreleaseexcesswater,andreservethesoakingliquid.Roughlychoptheporcinisandslicetheshiitakes.

2Inasouppot,combinethebarley,reservedmushroomliquid,6cupswater,thebayleaves,thymebundle,onion,and2largepinchesofsalt.Bringtoaboil,thenreducetheheattoasimmer,andcookuntilthebarleyistenderbutnotmushy,about20minutes.Discardtheonionquarters,thymebundle,andbayleaves.

3Inanotherlargesouppot,combinetheoliveoil,anchovypaste,carrot,onion,garlic,andapinchofsalt.Cookoverhighheatfor2minutes,stirringfrequently.Reducetheheattomedium,thencover,andcookthevegetablesfor10minutes,stirringoncehalfwaythrough.Addthechoppedthyme,tomatopaste,porcinis,shiitakes,andcreminimushrooms.Stirwelltocombine.Coverandcookfor10minutes,stirringoncehalfwaythrough.Addthekaleandanotherpinchofsalt,stirringtocoatthekalewiththewarmvegetables.Coverandcookforanother10minutes,stirringoccasionally.

4Addthebarleyanditscookingliquidtothesouppot,alongwith3cupswater.Bringthesouptoaboil,thenreducetheheattoasimmer,partiallycover,andcookfor30minutes.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.ServehotwithParmesanandcrackedblackpepper.

UMAMIToradicallyenhancetheflavorofyourcookingwithoutpilingonsalt,sugar,fat,orartificialcrap,you’vegottogetintoumami-richfoods.UmamiistheJapanesewordfor“pleasant,savorytaste”andiswidelyrecognizedasthefifthtastesense,joiningsweet,salty,sour,andbitter.Umamiaddsthedeep,rich,intenselysavoryflavortoalotoffoodsyoufindaddictivelysatisfying—ifyou’veevercrumbledbluecheeseoverabeetsalad,slurpedhomemadechickensoup,orsimmeredbeanswithahamhock,you’veexperiencedthealmostindescribabledeliciousnessofumami.Thesourceofitsflavor-enhancingmagicisanaminoacidcalledglutamate.Itexistsinabundanceinmanyfoodsyou’realreadyfamiliarwith,includingmeat,agedcheeses,tomatoes,mushrooms,nuts,shellfish,andafewthatmaynotberegularsinyourkitchen,likemiso,nori,kelp,andfishsauce.Umami-richingredientsarethesecrettoaddingdepthanddeeplysatisfying,

robustflavortomeatlessdishes.Bypackingvegetariandisheswiththepowerhouseumami-richflavorsofdriedandfreshmushrooms,Parmigiano-Reggianocheese,andtomatopaste,Iskipthemeatwithoutsacrificingflavor.Certaincookingtechniquescanfurtherampuptheflavorofumamifoods:Toastingnutsandseeds,pan-roastingmushrooms,curingfish,picklingvegetables,andbraisingandslow-cookingallbringoutadish’sinnerumami,asdoesbrowningandcaramelizationonawell-cookedpieceofmeat(seehereforadeeperdiveintothis).

BrownRiceRisottowithMushrooms,Cabbage,andThyme

BROWNRICERISOTTOWITHMUSHROOMS,CABBAGE,ANDTHYMESERVES6TO8WhenIhadtoslowdowntheparadeofhigh-GI,simplecarbohydratesIwaseating,risottoisoneofthedisheswhereIhadtotakealong,hardlook.Risotto,alongwithpasta,ismysoulfood.IdedicatedabigchunkofSalttoTastetorisotto,andthere’snowayit’severcomingoutofmyplaybook.Afterapplyingtherisottotechniquetoseveralwholegrains,Ifoundsweetbrownricehadthebestresults.IthasastickytexturethatgivesyouthesamemagicalcreaminessasArboriorice,soyoudon’tfeellikeyou’resettlingforasecond-rateversion—you’llbepsychedtohaveleftovers.Otherwholegrainsthattakewelltoarisotto-stylepreparationareblackrice,farro,andbarley.

Youcoulduseregulargreencabbagehere,butIlikehowwellthetender,crinklyridgesofsavoycabbagecapturethecreamysauceoftherisotto.

Risottodoesnotrequireconstantstirringthroughouttheentireprocess.It’snotuntilthemomentwhenyou’readdingsmallincrementsofbroththatitrequiresfrequentstirring.

4tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil,plusmoreforgarnish1(10-ounce)packagecreminimushrooms,sliced(about3cups)Fineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1headsavoycabbage,cutinto½-inchpieces(about3cups)2½cupsmushroombroth2½cupsvegetablebroth2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1yellowonion,diced2cupssweetbrownrice1cupdrywhitewine½cupfreshlygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,plusmoreforgarnish1tablespoonchoppedfreshthyme

1Inalargehigh-sidedskilletheat1tablespoonoftheoliveoiloverhighheat.Addthemushroomsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookuntiltheliquidreleasedfromthemushroomsisgone,5to7minutes.Usingasiliconespatula,transferthemushroomstoabowlandscrapethebottomofthepantoremoveandsavealltheflavorfulbits.

2Whilethepanisstillhot,returnittotheburnerandadd1tablespoonoftheoliveoil.Addthechoppedcabbageandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Reducetheheattomedium-highandcookuntilthecabbageiswiltedandslightlybrowned,about10minutes.Removethepanfromtheheat.

3Pourthemushroomandvegetablebrothsintoasaucepan.Bringittoaboiloverhigh

heat,thenreducetheheattoasimmer.

4Inalargehigh-sidedskillet,heat1tablespoonofthebutterandtheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoilovermediumheat.Addtheonionandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionssoften,about5minutes.

5Turntheheattohighandaddtherice.Stirwithawoodenspoon,coatingthericethoroughlywiththeonion,butter,andoiluntilthericeiscrackling,2to3minutes.Addthewine.Letitbubble,stirringfrequently,untilthericeabsorbsthewine,about1minute.

6Addjustenoughofthewarmbrothtocovertherice,about2cups.Reducetheheattomedium-highandstiroccasionallyuntilthericeisalmostdry,about10minutes.Addjustenoughbrothtocoverthericeandstireverycoupleofminutes,untilthebrothisincorporatedandthericeisalmostdry,about10minutes.

7Stirringmorefrequentlynow,continueaddingwarmbrothtocovertherice,about½cupatatime,untilitsabsorbed,every4to5minutesfor10minutes.

8Reducetheheatandaddthecabbage,mushrooms,andabout¼cupbroth.Simmer,stirringconstantly,adding¼-cupincrementsofbrothasneededuntilthericeisjusttenderandtherisottoisalittlerunny(sincethericewillcontinuetoabsorbmoisture).Takethepanofftheheat.

9AddtheParmesan,theremaining1tablespoonbutter,thethyme,andsaltandpeppertotaste,stirringtoincorporate.Tasteandadjustseasoning,ifneeded.Toserve,ladletherisottointobowlsandtopeachservingwithmorefreshlygratedParmesanandadrizzleofoliveoil.

WholeWheatRigatoniwithPorciniMushroomsandBabySpinach

WHOLEWHEATRIGATONIWITHPORCINIMUSHROOMSANDBABYSPINACHSERVES4TO6Mypastahabitwasamajorinfluenceinmyhealthgoingofftherails.Whileit’sstilloneofmybiggestindulgences,I’mamoreconsciouseaternow,somyportionsizeissmaller,andIoccasionallyswapoutthesimplecarbsofregularwhitepastaforthecomplexcarbsinwholewheatpasta.Thisdishisadaptedfrompizzoccheri,aNorthernItalianvegetarianpastathatImakeinthewinteratHearth.Readilyavailablewholewheatpastaisanexcellentsubstitutionforthebuckwheatpastaofthetraditionalversion,anditcomplementstheheartyflavorofmushrooms.Foragluten-freepasta,trythosemadeofablendofquinoaandcornflours.Iwassurprisedbyhowsimilartheyaretoregularsemolinapastaintaste,color,andtexture.Gluten-freepastacooksquickly,sostarttastingitbeforeyouthinkit’sdone.

Thekeystepinanypastadishismovingthepastafromitscookingwatertothepanofsaucebeforethepastaisaldente,soitfinishescookinginthesauce.Thepastaabsorbsmoreflavorandthestarchitreleaseshelpsthesaucetoclingtothepasta.

1ouncedriedporcinimushrooms¼cupextravirginoliveoil1whiteonion,minced(about1cup)3clovesgarlic,slicedpaper-thin1½tablespoonschoppedfreshthymeleaves1½tablespoonschoppedfreshsage3cupsbabyspinachFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1poundwholewheatrigatonipasta1tablespoonunsaltedbutter3tablespoonsfreshlygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese¼cupfreshlyshreddedFontinacheese

1Inabowl,soakthedriedporcinisin1½cupsveryhotwaterfor10minutes.Strainthem,reservingthesoakingliquid,andfinelychopthem.

2Inalargehigh-sidedskillet,combinetheoliveoil,onion,garlic,thyme,andsage,thenturntheheattohigh.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionistranslucent,about5minutes.Addthechoppedporcinis,spinach,andacouplepinchesofsaltandpepperandstirwelltocoatthevegetableswiththeoil.Reducetheheattomediumandcookfor5minutes,stirringoccasionally.Pourinthereservedporcinisoakingliquidandstir.Whenit

comestoaboil,turnofftheheat.

3Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil.Addthepastaandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilit’stender,butnotquitealdente.Meanwhile,bringtheskilletofvegetablesbackuptomediumheat.

4Usingaspiderskimmerorslottedspoon,transferthepastafromtheboilingwatertothesauceintheskillet.Tosswellandcookuntilthepastaabsorbsalltheliquid.Ifthemixturelooksdry,add2tablespoonsofthepastacookingwater.Thepastashouldglisten,butwatershouldn’tbeaccumulatingonthebottomofthepan.

5Addthebutterand2tablespoonsoftheParmesanandtoss.Ifneeded,addanothertablespoonofpastawater.Removethepanfromtheheat.Tofinish,sprinklewiththeFontinaandtheremaining1tablespoonParmesan.

WholeWheatOrecchiettewithPeasandOnions

WHOLEWHEATORECCHIETTEWITHPEASANDONIONSSERVES4TO6Youcanneverhavetoomanyquick-fixpantrymealsinyourarsenal,andthispastaprovesthatsimplecanbestellar.Inafewways,thisiscacioepepe,theclassicRomanpastawithcheeseandpepper,withtheadditionofpeasandonions.Thecheeses,good-qualitybutter,agenerousamountofblackpepper,andstarchypastawatermeetuptoformacreamysaucethatcoatsthevegetablesandpasta.(Asweknownow,it’stherefinedgrainsinregularpastathatcauseproblems,notthesaturatedfat,sodon’tgetanxiousaboutthecheeseandbutterhere!)Shortpastaslikeorecchiette,smalltubes,shells,andbowtiesworkbest—somethingthepeasandsaucecangetlodgedinto.

2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1mediumyellowonion,halvedfromroottotipandthinlysliced2garliccloves,thinlyslicedFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1½cupsfrozenpeas,thawed1poundwholewheatorecchiettepasta¼cupfreshlygratedPecorinoRomanocheese,plusmoreforserving¼cupfreshlygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese

1Inalargehigh-sidedskillet,combinetheoliveoil,2tablespoonsofthebutter,theonion,andgarlic.Throwinacoupleofpinchesofsaltandpepperandcookoverhighheatfor3minutes.Iftheonionbeginstobrown,bringdowntheheatabit.Addthepeasandtosstothoroughlycoattheminthefat.Reducetheheattomediumandcookfor3minutes.Reducetheheattolowtostewthepeasandonionsfor5minutes,thenturnofftheheat.

2Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil.Addthepastaandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilit’stender,butnotquitealdente.Meanwhile,turntheheatunderthepeasandonionstohigh.

3Usingaspiderskimmerorslottedspoon,liftthepastaoutoftheboilingwaterandaddittotheskilletwiththesauce.Add¼cupofthepastawaterandtoss.AddthePecorino,Parmesan,theremaining2tablespoonsbutter,andagenerousamountofblackpepper.Add½cupplus2tablespoonsmoreofthepastawaterandsalttotaste.Continuecooking,tossingfrequently,untilthere’snoliquidpoolingatthebottomandthepastahasalightcoatingofcheeseandbutter.TopeachservingwithmorefreshlygratedPecorinoandblackpepper.

RoastedCarrotswithMilletandMint-PistachioPesto

ROASTEDCARROTSWITHMILLETANDMINT-PISTACHIOPESTOSERVES4Milletdrawsablankwithmostpeopleeventhoughit’sbeenaroundforcenturiesandhasanimpressivenutritionprofile.Yetafterdiscoveringhowversatileandquick-cookingitis,Iincorporatemilletintoalotofdishesinmyhouse.Thesmallyellowgrainsaregluten-freeandpairwellwithallkindsoffoods.Iliketoampupitsslightlynuttycornflavorbytoastingitbeforecooking.Here,thetoastycookedmilletcoatsroastedcarrotsandgetsahitofmintypesto.Thisseemslikealongtimetocookcarrots,butroastingthemlowandslowwiththeirpeelonbringsoutadeepersweetflavorandamorecomplex,dehydratedtexture.Andthisbright,zingypestoisoneofthosethingsthatyou’llfindamillionusesforonceyouhaveitaround.Itossitwithpastaandroastedvegetables,useitasaspreadonsandwichesorChickpeaCrepes,andstiraspoonfulintoleftovergrainstogivethemnewlife.Leftoverpestocanberefrigeratedforuptoaweek,orfrozenforacoupleofmonths.Youcancreateapolenta-stylecreamyporridgeusingagrain-to-liquidratioof1:3andstirringthemilletfrequentlywhileitcooks.

Ifyouhavetroubledigestinggrains,givegluten-freemilletawhirl.Asoneofthefewalkaline-forminggrains,it’seasiertodigestthanmost.Lookforitinthebulkfoodsectionatyournaturalfoodsstore.Bob’sRedMillpackagesitinseedformaswellasinflourform,whichIusetocoatfriedfish.

12carrots,scrubbed,withtopstrimmed½cupplus2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoilFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1cupmillet1cuplooselypackedfreshmintleaves3tablespoonsunsaltedpistachios,pluschoppedpistachiosforserving

1Preheattheovento300°F.Lineabakingsheetwithfoil.

2Ifthecarrotsarethickerthan½inch,halvethemlengthwise;otherwise,leavethemwhole.Onthebakingsheet,tossthecarrotswith2tablespoonsoftheoliveoilandsaltandpeppertotaste.Roast,shakingthepanoccasionally,untilthey’relightlybrownedandtheskinlooksshriveled,about1hour30minutes.

3Whilethecarrotsroast,toastthemilletinadrypotoverhighheat,stirringoftenuntilthegrainsturngoldenbrownandgiveoffatoastyfragrance,4to5minutes.Add2¼cupswaterandapinchofsalttothepotandbringtoaboil.Reducetheheattolow,cover,andsimmeruntilmostoftheliquidisabsorbedandthegrainsarefluffy,15to20minutes.Takethepotofftheheatandletitsit,covered,for10minutes.

4Inafoodprocessor,combinethemint,pistachios,andapinchofsaltandprocessuntilthenutsarecoarselyground.Whiletheprocessorisrunning,addtheremaining½cup

oliveoilinaslow,steadystreamuntilthepestoissmooth.

5Onaplatterorinalargebowl,tosstheroastedcarrotswith1cupofthecookedmillet,3tablespoonsofthepesto,andsomechoppedpistachios.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

Mint-PistachioPesto

Amaranth“Polenta”withTuscanKale

AMARANTH“POLENTA”WITHTUSCANKALESERVES6TO8Ifquinoaistheblockbusteramonggluten-freegrains,amaranthisthesleeperhit.WhenIdiscovereditspolenta-likequalities,amaranthimmediatelyshotupthelisttobecomeoneofmyfavoritegrains.Likecornmeal,itexpandsandthickenstobecomealusciousporridge,andamaranthbringsproteinpower—1cupcookedamaranthhasmoreproteinthanahard-boiledegg.Youhavetofreezethebunchofkaleovernight,sothisonetakesalittleplanningahead.It’smuchlesstimeconsumingtocrumblefrozenkaleintotinypiecesthantomincetheentirebunch.SometimesImakethiswithchickenbrothinsteadofwaterforaricherflavor,orIstirinacoupleoftablespoonsoffinelychoppedfreshrosemaryorparsley.

1bunchTuscankale(akalacinatoordinosaurkale),frozenFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper2cupsamaranth¼cupfreshlygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil

1Workingoverabowl,crumblethefrozenkaleleaveswithyourhandsuntilyouhaveabout1½cupsoffinecrumbles.Discardthestemsandthickcenterribs.

2Inalargepot,bring6cupswaterand3bigpinchesofsalttoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattoasimmerandpourtheamaranthintothewaterinaslow,steadystream,whiskingconstantly.Stirinthekaleandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilitreachesapuddinglikeconsistency,about30minutes.Theamaranthbeadsshouldbetenderbutretainenoughshapetoofferalittlepop.

3RemovethepotfromtheheatandstirintheParmesan,oliveoil,andagooddoseofblackpepper.Tasteandadjustseasoning,ifneeded.

BulgurWheatSaladwithAsparagus,SpringOnions,andParsley

BULGURWHEATSALADWITHASPARAGUS,SPRINGONIONS,ANDPARSLEYSERVES4TO6Ilikethissaladtobemoreaboutthecrispfreshnessofasparagusthanthegrain,sobulgur(aformofwholewheatthat’sbeensteamed,dried,andcrushed)isagreatbase.Itssmallsize,lighttexture,andsubtle,earthyflavorallowthevegetablestoshine,whileaddingheartinessandmorefibertothesalad.Italsohastheadvantageofbeingoneofthefastest-cookinggrains.Ifyouwantmorerichnessinthesalad,tossincrumbly,drygoatcheeseorricottasalata.Spreadingthebulgurinathinlayeraroundthesidesofthebowlallowsittosteamandreleasemoremoisturethanifitsitsinapileinthecenterofthebowl.Theresultisdrier,fluffierbulgur.

1cupbulgurwheatFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1bunchasparagus5tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil2mediumspringonions,whiteandpalegreenpartsonly,thinlysliced(about1cup)3tablespoonschoppedfreshparsley2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice

1Inapot,combinethebulgurwheat,acouplepinchesofsalt,and3cupswaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheat,cover,andsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilthebulguristenderbutstillhasalittlebitofabite,10to12minutes.Thoroughlydraintheexcessliquid.Inalargebowl,pressthebulgurinathinlayeragainstthesides.Setasidetocool.

2Trimtheasparagusbyholdingeachstalkhorizontallyandbendinggentlyuntilthetough,woodyendsnapsoff.Cutthetipsfromtheasparagusspearsandsliceeachtipinhalflengthwise.Cutthespearscrosswiseinto¼-inchrounds.

3Inalargeskillet,heat2tablespoonsoftheoliveoiloverhighheat.Whenthefirstwispsofsmokecomeoffthepan,addtheasparagustipsandroundsandsaltandpeppertotaste.Cookfor6minutes,tossingeverycoupleofminutes.

4Transfertheasparagustothebowlwiththebulgur.Addtheonions,parsley,lemonjuice,andremaining3tablespoonsoliveoilandtosstocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

FISH

LIKEMANYITALIANS,MYFAMILYcelebratesChristmasEvewiththecustomaryFeastoftheSevenFishes.Themenuchangesslightlyfromyeartoyear,butourmulticourseseafoodextravaganzacoversthespectrumofseafood,fromboiledcalamaridressedwithchile,garlic,parsley,lemon,andoliveoiltolightlybatteredflounderpan-friedandservedwithlemon(afavoriteIincludehere).And,ofcourse,pasta—usuallyspaghettiorlinguinewithshrimpthat’sbeensautéedwithloadsofparsley,garlic,andwhitewine.Withoutquestion,thistraditiondeeplyrootedaloveofseafoodinmethatcontinuestoinfluencemycookingatHearthtoday.Here’sthekicker:DespitehowmuchIenjoyit,Irarelycookedseafoodat

home.Ledbymyimpulsesatthegrocerystore,I’dsoonerreachformeatorpoultrythanfish.Isuspectthisistrueforalotofpeople,sinceonlyaboutone-thirdofAmericanseatfishevenonceaweek.Givenallthatfishhasgoingforit,it’salittlebafflingwhyitendsupinthegrocerycartsoinfrequently.Fishisagreatsourceofleanproteinandagodsendforthebusyhomecook;mostfishcookinamatterofminutes.Allbutonerecipeinthischaptercallforunder30minutesofactivecookingtime—mostarecloserto15minutes.Fishalsoofferunbeatablehealthbenefits,namelytheircontentofomega-3fattyacids.Maybeit’sbecausepeoplefindcookingfishtoochallengingtomesswithat

home.Thisperceptioncouldn’tbefurtherfromthetruth.Fishisgenerallyeasiertocookthanmeat;it’ssimplyamatterofbecomingcomfortablewithafewbasictechniques.Roastingandgrillingmaybethetwomostpopularmethods,butifyou’reafish-warycook,Isuggeststartingwithsteamingandpoaching.ThegentleheatandmoistureinvolvedintheduoofpoachedfishandclamrecipesandSteamedBlackBasswithBokChoyreducethelikelihoodofovercooking,sotheresultissucculent,flavor-infusedfish.Anotherfoolproofwaytoprotectdelicatefishfromdryingoutistobakeitinparchmentpaper,whichholdsinmoistureandconcentratestheflavoroftheWildSalmoninParchmentwithOlives,Fennel,andLemon.Regardlessoftechnique,choosinghigh-qualityfishandcookingittheday

youbuyitisparamount.Thetasteandtextureoffreshlycaughtlocalfishisalwaysgoingtobesuperiortodays-old(orolder)frozenfishfromadifferentcontinent.Andwhilethere’snotauniversalanswertothequestionofwildorfarmed,thebetteroptionisusuallywildfishcaughtusingsustainablemethods(likehookandlinefishing).Thediscussionoffactory-farmedbeefandpoultryisnowmainstream,butthere’srelativelylittleawarenessaboutthepracticesataveragefishfarms.Pennedinclosequarters,fedanartificialdiet,andtreatedwithantibioticsanddyes,mostfarmedfish,especiallyfarmedAtlanticsalmon,aredamagingtothesurroundingecosystemsandhavelessomega-3sandproteinthanwildfish.Allfarmedfisharenotcreatedequal,sothebestthingtodoistapintotheknowledgeofyourlocalmarket’sfishmonger.Askifthefishislocalorshippedin,wild-caught,orfarmed.YoucanalsorefertotheMontereyBay

Aquarium’sSeafoodWatch(seafoodwatch.org)asaguide.Amongthemostsustainablesourceswildfishareoily,deliciouslittlefishlike

sardinesandanchovies.I’macrusaderfortheselittleguysnotonlybecausethey’reinexpensiveandwidelyavailable,butbecausethey’refullofumami-richflavorandcomplexity.They’realsolowonthefoodchain,sotheydon’tcontaintoxinsfoundinothertypesofseafood.MyotherfishobsessionwasconfirmedwithmyrecentpurchaseofanentiresideofwildAlaskansalmon.Icutitinto6-ounceportions,whichnowfillourfreezerathome.Pan-roasted,cured,poached,orbaked,thebutterytextureandrichnessofsalmoniskingformelately.

WildSalmoninParchmentwithOlives,Fennel,andLemon

WILDSALMONINPARCHMENTWITHOLIVES,FENNEL,ANDLEMONSERVES4Cookinginparchmentpaper(orfoil)packetsisaquick,low-effortwaytogetjuicy,deliciousfisheverytime.Eventhoughyoucan’tseeortouchthefish,youcantrustit’llturnoutgreat.Thesealedpacketlocksmoisturein,sothefishsteamsperfectlyalongwithanyflavoringsyouadd.Iliketheclassiccombooffennelandlemonwiththeadditionofafewbrinyolives,butdon’tfeelboxedinbythissuggestion—whateverfloatsyourboatwillwork.Keepinmindthateverythinginthepackethas12minutestocook,sobesuretothinlysliceyourrawvegetables.Youcanmakethisforoneandcookitinatoasteroven,oreasilyscalethisuptocreatepacketsforalargergroup.You’llfeellikeachampaseveryoneeagerlytearsopentheirindividualpacketand“ooohs”and“ahhs”asthesteampuffsout.

4teaspoonsextravirginoliveoil,plus3tablespoonsfordrizzling16thinlemonslices(about2lemons)Fineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper4(6-to8-ounce)skinlesswildsalmonfillets1largefennelbulb,thinlysliced20olives,pittedandroughlychopped(Ilikeusingassortedolives—anyvarietyworks)2teaspoonsfreshthymeleaves

1Preheattheovento400°F.Fold4largepiecesofparchmentpaperinhalf,thencutahalfovalineachpieceoffoldedpaper,soyougetroundedcutoutsthatarefoldedinthemiddlelikeaclamshell.

2Unfoldtheparchmentandbrush1teaspoonofoliveoilinthecenterofonehalfofeachpaper.Lay3lemonslicessidebysideontheoiledareaofeachone,sprinklewithsaltandpepper,andtopwithasalmonfillet.Placetheremainingsliceoflemonontopofeachfish,thenthefennelslicesandolivesontopofeach.Scatterthethymeleavesanddrizzletheremaining3tablespoonsoliveoiloverall.Addagenerouspinchofsalttoeachpacket.

3Toseal,foldtheotherhalfofparchmentoverthefish,sothetwoedgeslineup.Workingfromonesidetotheother,foldtheedgesoveraninchorsoandtightlycrimpthemclosed.

4Putthepacketsonabakingsheetandsteamthefishintheovenfor12minutes.Removefromtheovenandtransfereachparchmentpackagetoaplate.

PasseraFrita(Pan-FriedFlounder)

PASSERAFRITA(PAN-FRIEDFLOUNDER)SERVES4Aridiculouslysimpleandtastyfriedflounderisoneofmyfavoritethingswedoinourevening-longparadeoffishdishesonChristmasEve.Becauseit’snotdeep-friedincopiousamountsofvegetableoil,beer-battered,orsmotheredintartarsauce,it’safriedfishthatIhavenoproblemdigginginto.Thefloundertakesadipinflour,thenbeatenegg,andgetspan-friedinoliveoil.Afterasqueezeoflemonjuiceandasprinkleofparsley,it’soutrageouslygood.Inowtradeall-purposewhiteflourforwhole-grainmilletflourwithnolovelost—ithasmorefiberandprotein,andisgluten-free.Milletflouralsogivesyouanicecrispycoating,anditsyellowhueenhancesthegoldenbrownexterior.

4(4-to5-ounce)skinlessflounderfilletsFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper¼cupmilletflour2largeeggs2tablespoonswholemilk4tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil1lemon,cutintowedges2teaspoonschoppedfreshflat-leafparsley

1Lightlyseasonthefishonbothsideswithsaltandpepper.Pourthemilletflourontoaplate.Beattheeggswiththemilkinawideshallowbowlandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

2Heat2tablespoonsofoliveoilinaskilletoverhighheat.Workinginbatches,dredgethefishintheflour,thenshakeofftheexcessanddipthefilletsintotheegg.Addtwocoatedfilletstothepanandcookuntilgoldenbrownonthebottom,1to2minutes.Turneachfilletandcookuntilthesecondsideisgoldenandcrispy,about1minutemore.Transferthefishtoaplate.Addtheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoiltothepanandrepeatthedredgingandfryingprocesswiththe2remainingfillets.

3Servethefishwiththelemonwedgesandchoppedparsley.

OMEGA-3FATTYACIDSTheAnti-InflammatorySuperstarsThere’susuallysometruthtoold-schoolwisdom,andtheoneaboutfishas“brainfood”isnoexception.Ithastodowithomega-3fattyacids,thehealthyfatfoundinabundanceincertainkindsofcold-waterfishand,toalesserdegree,foodslikeflaxseedsandgrass-fedmeats.Assumingyou’veembracedthefactthatnotallfatisdangerousforyourheartandthesizeofyourbelly,youknowthathealthyeatingisn’taboutcuttingoutfat,butratheraddinginthegoodfats.Amongthese,omega-3fattyacidshavebecometheMVP.Evenifyou’veonlyhalf-heartedlyglancedatnutritionalrecommendations,you’velikelyheardaboutthembecauseexpertsofeveryapproachtohealthyeating—fromgrain-freeandlow-carbdietstovegetarianandvegan—agreethatomega-3sareundeniablygoodforyou.

Rattlingoffthelistoftheirhealthbenefitssoundsalittlelikealate-nightinfomercial.Ifyouconsistentlygetenoughomega-3s,overtimeyoucouldhavebettermemory,brightermoods,protectionagainstthesymptomsofdepression,improvedasthma,andgoodskin,hair,andeyesight.Rememberingwhereyouputyourkeysandbeingabletoreadthemenuinadarkrestaurantmaybereasonenoughtomakesureyou’regettingyouromega-3s,butit’stheiranti-inflammatorypowersthatmakethemacriticalnutrient.Inflammationinthebodyisnormalwhenit’sinresponsetoaninjurylikeasprainedankleorcutonyourfinger,butchronicinflammationcausedbyyearsoftoomuchstressandashittydietofprocessedfoodcankillya.Youcan’tseethistypeofinflammation,butit’sthedrivingforcebehindmostdiseases,rangingfromcancerandheartdiseasetoAlzheimer’s,Crohn’s,andarthritis.

Omega-3sareanessentialfatforhumanhealth,butourbodiescan’tproducethem—wehavetogetthemfromfood.Themaintypesofomega-3sareALA,EPA,andDHA.ALAsareinplantfoodslikechiaseeds,flaxseeds,walnuts,andallcookingoilsmadefromvegetables,nuts,orseeds.Themorepotentandmostbeneficialtypesofomega-3sareEPAandDHA,foundinfattycold-waterfish,includingsalmon,anchovies,sardines,mackerel,herring,andtuna.BothEPAandDHAcanhelplowerbloodpressure,slowtherateofgunkbuild-upinarteries,andincreasegoodcholesterol.EPAinparticularworksasananti-inflammatoryinthebrainwhereitshelpwithbloodflowmayfightdepressionandpreventAlzheimer’s(brainfood!).

Youcan’ttalkaboutomega-3swithoutconsideringtheirclosecousins,omega-6s—youneedbothtypesoffatsoyourbodyhumsalonglikeitshould.Omega-6sarepro-inflammatory,butthisisn’tabigdealifyou’regettingenoughomega-3fatstobalancethem.Theproblemcomesinwhenyourarelyeatomega-3–richfoodsandoverloadonomega-6sintheformofcheap,grain-fedmeatsandhighlyprocessedvegetableoilslikesoybean,corn,andsunfloweroils(hydrogenatingtheseoilsturnsthemintotransfat—anotherdamagingfatthatprovokesinflammation).Whenthebalanceofthesefatsisoutofwhack,theomega-6scrowdouttheomega-3sandcausechronicinflammation.Therecommendedratioofomega-6toomega-3is2:1;thesedays,thetypicalAmericanhasanout-of-controlratiosomewherebetween10:1and20:1,mostlybecauseoftheglutofvegetableoilsinprocessedfood.

WhenIwasdiagnosedwithgout,aformofarthritis,Ishiftedmydiettofocusonfoodspackedwithomega-3s(alongwithalkaline-formingfoods).Themoreomega-3fatIate,thelessomega-6wasavailabletostirupinflammationinmyjoints.Extravirginoliveoilhasalwaysbeenmygo-tocookingoil,butalltheprocessedfoodIate—thebagsofchips,late-nightburgers,anddelimeats—areomega-6bombs.Tofixtheimbalance,Istartedeatingomega-3–richfishacoupletimesaweek,specificallysalmon,anchovies,andsardines.WhenIbuymeat,eggs,andbutter,Iseekoutgrass-fedandpasture-raisedoptions,whicharemuchhigherinomega-3fattyacids.Ialsoworkinchiaseeds,flaxseeds,andwalnuts.Omega-3supplementscanbeakindofinsurance,but,asalways,Iprefertogetnutrientsfrommydietfirst.Plus,chokingdownfishoilisn’tnearlyasenjoyableaseatingsilkyCuredSalmon,WholeWheatSpaghetti“ConSarde”,Grass-FedBeefMeatloaf,orPecanPowerBalls.Eatingomega-3–richfoodsisprobablythemostdeliciousnutritionrecommendationoutthere.

CuredSalmon

CUREDSALMONSERVES4TO6I’mahugefanofthesilky-smooth,sliceablefleshofcuredsalmon,andsurprisinglylittleisrequiredtomakeitathome:aqualitypieceoffish,herb-and-citrus-spikedsalt,andalittlepatienceforthe24hoursittakestocure.Amajoradvantageofcuringisthatitremovesmoisturefromthefish,therebypreservingitandallowingyoutoeatfromitallweek.Sliceituptohavewitheggs,pileitontoastedbreadwithcapersandredonion,orhaveafewshavingsasasnack.Youcanalsosetoutabighunkofitasapartyappetizerorforbreakfastwhenyouhavecompany.Askthepersonatthefishcounterforthetop,thickendofthesalmon,notthetailend;usingathickercutoffishwithmorefleshgivesyouatastierresult.Onceyou’vegotthemethoddown,youcancustomizethecuretoincludeyourfavoriteherbsandspices.Tonameafew—dill,fennelseeds,groundcoriander,andorangeorgrapefruitzestwouldallbegreathere.

1cupfineseasalt2tablespoonscoarselygroundblackpepperFinelygratedzestof2lemons2tablespoonschoppedfreshrosemary2tablespoonschoppedfreshsage2tablespoonschoppedfreshthyme1poundwildskin-onsalmonfillet(about6incheslongand1½inchesthick)

1Inabowl,combinethesalt,pepper,lemonzest,andherbs.

2Patthesalmondryonbothsideswithapapertowelandlayitskin-sideuponacuttingboard.Withasharpknife,scoretheskindiagonallyin3places,beingcarefulnottosliceintotheflesh.(Thisallowsthesalmonfleshtodrawinthesaltandcurefaster.)

3Putseverallongpiecesofplasticwrapoverabakingsheet.Inthecenter,arrangehalfthesaltmixtureinamoundthesamelengthasthesalmonfillet.Placethefishskin-sidedownoverthemound,thenspreadtheremainingsaltmixtureevenlyoverthefleshsideofthesalmon.Wrapthesalmontightlyintheplasticwrap.Putanotherbakingsheetontopandweightitwithseveralheavyjarsorcans,sandwichingthewrappedsalmoninbetweenthepans.Refrigeratefor24hours.Afterthistime,thesalmonfleshshouldfeelfirm,butnothard.(Ifit’ssquishy,wrapitbackupandrefrigerateforanotherday.)

4Unwrapthesalmonandrinseoffthecureundercoldwater.Patitdrywithpapertowels.Useasharp,nonserratedknifetoslicethefleshintopaper-thinpieces.Storeintherefrigeratorforuptoaweek.

SalmonandArugulaSaladwithPomegranate

SALMONANDARUGULASALADWITHPOMEGRANATESERVES4Thisisoneofmygo-tomealswhenI’mtakingiteasyonhigh-carbohydratefoods.EspeciallywhenI’mattherestaurant,wherebreadandpastaarestaringmeinthefaceallday,Ineedasupersimplelunchthat’sfast,filling,andjammedwithflavor.ThissaladiseverythingIwant.Thereareafewwaystodressit—aswithmostsalads,I’mabigfanoftheon-the-flymethod—justasqueezeoflemon,drizzleofoliveoil,salt,andpepper.Ofcourse,youcouldalsomakeavinaigrette,suchasmyLemonVinaigrettewithGarlicandAnchovyandusethathere.Twoimportantpointsforsautéingandpan-roastingfish:(1)makesureyourpanisveryhotand(2)onceyouaddthefishtothepan,leaveitalone!Thefishwilldevelopanicecrustandreleaseperfectlywhenyougotoflipthepieces.

10ouncesarugula2(8-ounce)skinlesswildsalmonfilletsFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper5tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil1cuppomegranateseeds2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice1smallredonion,thinlysliced

1Addthearugulatoalargesaladbowl.Seasonthefishonbothsideswithsaltandpepperandcuteachfilletinto5evenslices.

2Inalargeskillet,heat2tablespoonsoftheoliveoiloverhighheat.Whentheoilslideseasilyacrossthepanandwispsofsmokecomeoffthesurface,addthesalmonandcook,untouched,for2minutes.Flipthepiecesandcookfor30secondsontheotherside.

3Putthehotsalmonpiecesontopofthegreens,coverthebowlwithaplateorbakingsheet,andsetasidefor5minutestowiltthearugula.

4Dropthepomegranateseedsintothebowl,alongwiththeremaining3tablespoonsoliveoil,salttotaste,agooddoseofblackpepper,thelemonjuice,andredonion.Usingafork,lightlybreakupthepiecesofsalmonintolargeflakes.Tosswelltocombine.

ShrimpandChickpeaTrifolati

SHRIMPANDCHICKPEATRIFOLATISERVES4TO6TrifolatireferstotheclassicItalianmethodofsautéingwithgarlic,parsley,andoliveoil.Mylovefortheflavor-packedsimplicityoftrifolatirunsdeep.There’saversionwithmushroomsinSalttoTaste,butIloveitappliedtoshrimpandchickpeasforafast,protein-loadedmeal.Youcangetatonofmileageoutofthisrecipe:Itworksgreatwithonions,carrots,cauliflower,zucchini,scallops,andthinpiecesofbeeforchicken.Thekeytotrifolatiisfinelychoppingtheparsley,garlic,andlemonzesttogetheronthecuttingboarduntiltheybecomeone.Theresultingmixtureissomuchgreaterthanthesumofitsparts.Thereareafewvariationsonthebasictrifolatimixturethatareworthtrying.Instep2,tryaddingredpepperflakesormincedpeperoncinialongwiththeparsleyandgarlic.

1pound(21/25)shrimp,peeledanddeveined(leavethetailson)1cuplooselypackedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves2largegarlicclovesFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1lemon,plusasqueezemoreforserving3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil,plusmoreforserving2cupscookedchickpeasor1(15-ounce)canchickpeas,rinsedanddrained

1Rinsetheshrimpandpatdrywithpapertowels.

2Balltheparsleyinyourfistandpressitontoacuttingboard.Runyourknifeseveraltimesthroughtheballtoroughlychoptheleaves.Cutthegarlicclovesinhalfacrosstheequator,smasheachhalfwiththeflatsideofyourknife,androughlychopthem.Putthegarlicandlemonzestontopofthepileofparsleyandfinelychopthemtogether.Themixtureshouldyieldabout½cupoftrifolati.

3Inalargeskillet,heattheoliveoiloverhighheat.Oncewispsofsmokecomeoffthepan,addtheshrimpinasinglelayer.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andcookwithouttouchingtheshrimpfor2minutes.Addthetrifolatiandtosstocoattheshrimp.Addthechickpeasandlemonjuiceandtosstocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Cookfor3minutesmore,allowingtheflavorstocombineandeverythingtobecomeevenlycoatedwiththetrifolati.Pourintoaservingbowlandtopwithasqueezeoflemonjuiceandadrizzleofoliveoil.

HalibutLivornese

HALIBUTLIVORNESESERVES4ForItalianseafoodinspiration,IoftenlooktothecityofLivornoontheTuscancoastwherefishdishespreparedallaLivornesecontaintomatoes,olives,andcapers.Oneofthemostdeliciousandeasiestofthesepreparationsismadewithfreshwhitefish—usuallywhateverthecatchofthedayis.Bakingthefishwhileembeddedintherichsauceinfusesitwithflavorandkeepsitmoist.Anyfresh,firm-fleshedwhitefishtakeswelltothisapproach,includingstripedbass,monkfish,tilapia,andcod.Keepinmindthatthebakingtimemayvarydependingonthetypeandthicknessoffishyouuse.

4tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil⅓cupmincedyellowonion⅓cupmincedfennel2garliccloves,thinlysliced3tablespoonschoppedfreshbasilFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1(28-ounce)canwholepeeledtomatoes,drainedandchopped⅓cuppittedblackolives(IlikeTaggiascaorniçoise)2tablespoonscapers,rinsed4(5-to6-ounce)halibutfillets

1Preheattheovento350°F.

2Inalargeovenproofskilletcombinetheoliveoil,onion,fennel,garlic,1tablespoonofthebasil,andapinchofsalt,thenturntheheattomedium-high.Cookfor5minutes,reducetheheattomedium,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthevegetableshavesoftenedandbecometranslucent,about3minutes.

3Addthetomatoes,olives,andcapersandincreasetheheattohigh.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.(Theolivesandcapersaddagoodamountofsalt,sostartwithalittleandtasteasyougo.)Cookfor3minutes,breakingupthetomatoeswithawoodenspoon.Reducetheheattomedium-highandcontinuetolightlycookuntilthesaucehasslightlythickened,about5minutes.

4Stirintheremaining2tablespoonsbasil.Lightlyseasonthehalibutfilletsonbothsideswithsaltandpepper.Nestlethemintothesauce,spooningsomesauceoverthetopofeachoneuntilthey’remostlysubmerged.After1minute,transferthepantotheovenandbakeuntilthefishflakesapartwithaforkorgiveseasilywhenlightlysqueezed,about10minutes.Platethefilletsandspoonthesauceovereachone.

POACHEDBLACKBASSANDCLAMSWITHSPRINGVEGETABLESANDMINTSERVES4Inthislow-hassle,single-panmeal,blackbassfilletsgentlycookinashallowpoolofclam-and-wine-infusedbroththat’ssoaromatic,you’recompelledtostickyourfaceinthebowl,eyesclosed,andbreatheitin.Asparagus,scallions,andthreekindsofpeasbringcrunchandvibrantfreshness,andgingeraddsasubtlekick.Eventhoughpoachinggivesyoumoreleewaythanroastingorgrilling,youcanstillovercookthefishifthepoachingliquidisboiling,sokeepitatalowsimmerforgentlecooking.

1bunchasparagus4(6-ounce)skin-onblackseabassfillets1dozenlittleneckclams3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil,plusmoreforserving1garlicclove,thinlysliced½-inchpiecefreshginger,peeledandthinlysliced1bunchscallions,whiteandpalegreenpartsonly,thinlysliced½cuphalvedsnowpeas,stemendsandstringsremoved½cuphalvedsugarsnappeas,stemendsandstringsremoved½cupfrozenpeasFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper½cupdrywhitewine3tablespoonswhitewinevinegar¼cuptornfreshmintleaves

1Trimtheasparagusbysnippingoffthetough,woodyends.

2Withasharpknife,scoretheskinofeachfillet,makingthreediagonalslashesabout1inchapart.Scrubanysandandgritofftheclams,thensoaktheminabowlofcoldwaterfor20minutes.

3Inalarge,shallowpan,combinetheoliveoil,garlic,ginger,andscallions,thenturntheheattohigh.Oncetheoilsizzles,addtheasparagus,snowpeas,sugarsnaps,frozenpeas,andabigpinchofsaltandstirtocoatwiththeoil.Reducetheheattomedium,cover,andcook,stirringevery3minutes,untilthevegetablesaresoft,butnotbrowned,about9minutes.

4Drainandrinsetheclamsandaddthemtothepan.Addthewine,vinegar,and¼cupwater.Cover,increasetheheattomedium-high,andcookuntiltheclamsopen,about5minutes.Reducetheheattolow.

5Lightlyseasonbothsidesofthefilletswithsaltandpepperandnestletheminasinglelayeramongthevegetablesandclams.Theliquidshouldbejustbelowanactivesimmer.Coverandpoachthefishfor5minutes.Thefishisdonewhenit’sopaqueandtenderwhenyoupierceinthethickestpart.Stirinthemintleavesandtastethebroth,addingsaltorpepper,ifneeded.

6Toserve,placeafilletand3clamsineachbowlandladlethevegetablesandbrothover.

POACHEDREDSNAPPERANDCLAMSWITHWINTERVEGETABLESSERVES4Whenyoueatwiththeseasons,usingingredientswhenthey’reattheirbest,foodsimplytastesbetter.It’sinstinctualtobedrawntoheartierflavorsinthewinterandlighterflavorsinthewarmmonths—itjustfeelsright.Butthisdoesn’tmeanyouhavetosaygoodbyetosomeofyourfavoritedishesforhalftheyear.Inthiscase,I’vewinterizedaspringdishthatIlovebyusingheartyvegetablesthatareinseasoninthecoldermonths.Whilethetechniqueisbasicallythesame,yougetacompletelydifferentflavorthat’smoreinlinewithacoldnightbythefire.Thisversionofpoachedfishandclamshasacurativeeffect,inthewaythatchickensoupdoes.WhenIneedarestfromheavierstewsandmeatybraises,Iturntothis.

4(6-ounce)skin-onredsnapperfillets1dozenlittleneckclams3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil,plusmoreforserving1mediumcarrot,thinlysliced1smallcelerystalk,thinlysliced1smallfennelbulb,thinlysliced½leek,whiteandpalegreenpartsonly,halvedlengthwiseandslicedcrosswise,washed½smallwhiteonion,sliced2smallgarliccloves,sliced1bayleaf1sprigoffreshrosemaryFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper½cupdrywhitewine3tablespoonswhitewinevinegar¼cupchoppedfreshflat-leafparsley

1Withasharpknife,scoretheskinofeachfillet,makingthreediagonalslashesabout1inchapart.Scrubanysandandgritofftheclams,thensoaktheminabowlofcoldwaterfor20minutes.

2Inalargeshallowpan,heattheoliveoiloverhighheat.Oncetheoilstartstoshimmer,addthecarrot,celery,fennel,leek,onion,garlic,bayleaf,rosemary,andabigpinchofsaltandstirtocoatwiththeoil.Reducetheheattomedium,cover,andcook,stirringevery3minutes,untilthevegetablesaresoft,butnotbrowned,about9minutes.

3Drainandrinsetheclamsandaddthemtothepan.Addthewine,vinegar,and¼cupwater.Cover,nudgetheheatuptomedium-high,andcookuntiltheclamsopen,about5minutes.Reducetheheattolow.

4Lightlyseasonbothsidesofthefilletswithsaltandpepperandnestletheminasinglelayeramongthevegetablesandclams.Theliquidshouldhavethetiniestamountofmovement—notanactivesimmer.Coverandpoachthefishfor5minutes.Thefishisdonewhenit’sopaqueandthere’slittleresistancewhenyouinsertaknifeinthethickestpart.Tastethebrothandadjusttheseasoningwithsaltandpepperifneeded.

5Placeafilletand3clamsineachbowlandladlethevegetablesandbrothovereach.Servewithadrizzleofoliveoilandtheparsley.

BlackRiceSeafoodRisotto

BLACKRICESEAFOODRISOTTOSERVES4TO6Thisexoticrisottotastesasimpressiveasitlooks,earningyouHostingHallofFamestatuswithanyguestsatyourdinnertable.Itbalancesthedeep,nuttyrichnessofblackricewiththetendersweetnessofcalamariandshrimpandnoticeableheatfromthepeperoncini.Theseafoodcooksinabout2minutes,sothemajorityofyoureffortisfocusedontheblackrice.Alsocalledforbiddenrice,blackriceisatrip:Oncecooked,itturnsdarkpurple,andthekernelsareverychewy,retainingaslightbiteevenafterthey’refullycooked(unlikethecreamierArboriorice).It’sinsanelydelicious.Blackricehasallthebenefitsofbrownrice,withtheaddedperkofsomeseriousanthocyaninantioxidants,thesameonesthatgiveblueberriesandblackberriestheirdeep,inkycolor.Thehardoutershellofblackriceholdsallthisgoodness,butalsomakesitscookingtimelongerthanwhiterice,andevenabitlongerthanbrownrice.

SometimesIboilthewaterinateapot,makingiteasiertopoureachadditionofwaterintothepanofrice.

Finelygratedzestof2lemons1bunchfreshflat-leafparsley,chopped(about1cup)3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil3driedpeperoncini(or¼teaspoonredpepperflakes),minced1mediumyellowonion,minced(about1½cups)5garliccloves,minced(about1tablespoon)2cupsblackrice(likeLundbergBlackJaponicaorForbiddenRice)Fineseasalt¾cupdrywhitewine1poundcleanedsquidrinsedincoolwaterandcutintothinrings(about⅛inchthick),largetentacleshalved½pound(21/25)shrimp,peeled,deveined,andchoppedintosmallpieces1cuphalvedgrapetomatoes2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice

1Inapot(orkettle),bring10cupsofwatertoaboil,thenreducetheheattoasimmer.

2Pilethelemonzestontopofthechoppedparsleyandfinelychopthemtogether.

3Inalargehigh-sidedskillet,heattheoliveoiloverhighheat.Whentheoilishotandslideseasilyacrossthepan,addthepeperoncini,onion,andgarlic,stirringtocoatwiththeoil.Fryfor1minute,thenreducetheheattomedium-highandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionsaretranslucent,about5minutes.Addthericeandapinchofsalt,stirringtocoatthericewiththeoilandonions.Toastthericefor3minutes,stirringfrequently.

4Addthewine.Letitbubble,stirringoccasionally,untilit’sabsorbed,about3minutes.

Addjustenoughhotwatertocovertherice,about2cups,andcook,stirringandscrapingriceawayfromthesidesoccasionallyuntiltheliquidismostlyabsorbed,about12minutes.Again,addjustenoughhotwatertocoverthericeandstireverycoupleofminutes,untilthebrothisincorporatedandthericeisalmostdry,10to12minutes.Continueaddinghotwaterjusttocovertherice,stirringoccasionallyandwaitinguntilthewaterisabsorbedtoaddmore,about30minutes.

5Stirringmorefrequentlynow,continueaddingtheremaininghotwatertocovertherice,about½cupatatime,untilit’sabsorbed,aboutevery5minutes,for10to15minutes.Whenit’sfullycooked,thericewillbefirm,buttenderandsomewhatchewy.

6Addthesquid,shrimp,tomatoes,andabigpinchofsalt.Cookfor2minutes,stirringfrequently.Removethepanfromtheheatandaddthelemon-parsleymixtureandthelemonjuice.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningwithsalt.Ifthericehasstartedtogodryandsticky(itcontinuestoabsorbwaterevenofftheheat),addalittlemorewatertoloosenitbeforeserving.

STEAMEDBLACKBASSWITHBOKCHOYSERVES4There’snobetterwaytobringouttheclean,pureflavorsoffreshfishthanbysteamingit.Inasimple,two-tieredChinesebamboosteamer,thefishissurroundedwithmoistheat,sothere’slittledangerofitdryingout,andyoucansubtlyinfuseitwithanyherbs,citrus,orseasoningsyoulike.There’snotalottothisprocess,soseekingthebest-quality,freshestfishisespeciallyimportant.Ilikethemildsweetnessofblackseabass,butanyfirm-fleshedwhitefish,includinghalibutandredsnapper,willworkjustaswell.Servethiswithabowlofsteamedsweetbrownrice.

4(5-to6-ounce)skin-onblackbassfillets2headsbokchoy,halvedthroughthecoreFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper6teaspoonsextravirginoliveoil2lemons,sliced1-inchpiecefreshginger,peeledandthinlyslicedSoy-GingerVinaigrette,totaste

1Seasonthefilletsandthebokchoyonbothsideswithsaltandpepper.Brusheachfilletwith1teaspoonoftheoliveoilandtossthebokchoywiththeremaining2teaspoonsoliveoil.

2Pour3inchesofwaterintoapot.Makesurethebamboosteamercansitontopofthepotwithabout1inchofspacebetweenthewaterandthebottomofthesteamer.Bringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat,thenreducetoasimmer.

3Linethebottomoftwosteamerbasketswiththelemonslicesandevenlydistributethegingerontopofthelemon.Ineachbasket,arrange2filletsskin-sideupand2halvesofbokchoyinasinglelayer.Stackthebasketsandcoverwiththebambootop.Placetheentiresteamerbasketontopofthepotofsimmeringwaterandsteamuntilthebokchoyistender,thefishisopaque,andathinknifepokedinaseaminthefleshmeetslittleresistance,5to7minutes.

4SeasonthefishandbokchoywithasprinkleofsaltandaddSoy-GingerVinaigrette.

SalmonTacoswithGuacamole,Salsa,andCabbage-RadishSlaw

SALMONTACOSWITHGUACAMOLE,SALSA,ANDCABBAGE-RADISHSLAWSERVES4TO6Everybody’shappywithfishtacos.Somethingaboutthismealfeelscelebratory,evenifit’sarandomMondaynight.AtleastonceayearImakefishtacoswithmyfamilyonMartha’sVineyard,usingfreshlocalstripedbass.It’sperfectsummertimeeating—clean,freshMexicanflavors,ratherthantheheavyfriedstuff.Athome,Iusuallyusesalmon,butyoucansubstituteanyfirmwhitefish.

12corntortillas2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil1¼poundsskinlesswildsalmonfillet,cutinto12piecesFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperTomatoSalsa(recipefollows)Guacamole(recipefollows)Cabbage-RadishSlaw(recipefollows)Sourcream,slicedjalapeños,andlimewedges,forserving

1Preheattheovento200˚F.Linethebottomofabakingpanwithadamppapertowelandaddastackoftortillas.Coverwithanotherdamppapertowelandsealthepanwithfoil.Warmintheovenwhilethefishcooks.

2Inalargeskillet,heattheoliveoiloverhighheat.Seasonthesalmonpiecesonbothsideswithsaltandpepper.Whenyouseewispsofsmokecomingoffthepan,addthesalmonandsearfor1½minutesonbothsides.

3Fillthewarmedtortillaswithsalmonandtopwithsalsa,guacamole,andslaw.Garnishwithsourcream,jalapeños,andasqueezeoffreshlime.

TOMATOSALSAMAKESABOUT3CUPS

Ilikeamildsalsathathighlightsthefreshnessoftomatoes,butyoucanfireitupwiththeadditionoffinelychoppedjalapeñoandserranopeppers.Thissalsadependsentirelyonhavinggood-qualitytomatoes—don’tevenattemptthiswithmealyorblah,out-of-seasonones.

3tomatoes,diced(about2cups)

1bunchscallions,thinlysliced(about½cup)

2tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro

2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil

Juiceof1lime

Fineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Inabowl,combinethetomatoes,scallions,cilantro,oliveoil,limejuice,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Stirtocombine.

GUACAMOLEMAKESABOUT2CUPS

Avocadosmaybetheclosestyoucangettoaperfectfood.Theyhavegoodmonounsaturatedfat,fiber,andantioxidants,butwhatdrivesmyuncontrollableobsessionistheircreamy,luscioustexture.I’malwayslookingfornewwaystoeatavocados,butguacamolenevergetsold.Ifyouravocadosareslightlyunder-ripe,chopthemandaddtoabowlwiththelimejuiceandasprinkleofsalttosoftenupfor5minutesbeforeaddingtherestoftheingredients.

2avocados,roughlychopped

½cupquarteredgrapetomatoes

½redonion,diced(about½cup)

1smallfreshjalapeñopepper,seeded,ribbed,andminced(about1½teaspoons)

2tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro

2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil

Juiceof1lime

Fineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Inalargebowl,combinetheavocados,tomatoes,onion,jalapeño,cilantro,oliveoil,limejuice,andsaltandblackpeppertotaste.Tosstheingredientstogetherandroughlymashtheavocadowithaforkuntilyoureachthelevelofsmoothnessyoulike.

CABBAGE-RADISHSLAWMAKESABOUT3½CUPS

Ikeeptheslawbrightandtangy,soit’sacrunchy,lightcounterpointtotherichnessofthesalmonandguacamole,andtheoliveoilinthesalsa.

3cupsshreddedgreencabbage(about1mediumhead)

3radishes,thinlysliced

2tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro

Juiceof2limes

1½teaspoonsfineseasalt

Inalargebowl,tosstogetherthecabbage,radishes,cilantro,limejuice,andsalt.Lettheslawmarinatefor15minutes.

WholeWheatSpaghetti“ConSarde”

WHOLEWHEATSPAGHETTI“CONSARDE”SERVES4TO6Thebriny,saltyflavorofsardinesplaysabigroleinalotofMediterraneanandItaliandishes,butit’sthisclassicSicilianpastathatIgobacktoagainandagain.Primarilymadewithinexpensivepantrystaples,thereisaperfectbalanceoftexturesandflavorsinthisdish.Theintensityofsardinesmellowsoutinasauceoffennel,raisins,oliveoil,andthesaltyumamiofanchovies,andthewholethinggetsashoweroftoastedpinenutsandfennelfrondsforasatisfyingcrunch.Ifyou’vepreviouslyshiedawayfromsardines,thisisagreatplacetostartbringingoutthebestoftheselittlebeauties.Sardinesarehighinomega-3sandcontainalmostnomercury.They’reusuallyfoundincannedform,butifyouhavethegoodfortuneoffindingfresh,plumpsardines,apoundofthosewouldbeoutstandinghere.Askyourfishmongertoremovetheheads,tails,andbackbones.

Don’tdrainthepastainacolander—thestarchypastawaterisusedtomoistenthepastaonceitgoesintothepanwiththesauce.

¼cupgoldenraisins¼cuptoastedpinenuts½fennelbulb,minced,frondsreserved2oliveoil–packedanchovyfillets1largegarlicclove1poundwholewheatspaghetti6tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil½whiteonion,mincedFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1teaspoontomatopaste2(4-ounce)tinsoliveoil–packedsardines,drainedandrinsed¼cupchoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyJuiceof½lemon

1Placetheraisinsinasmallbowlandaddjustenoughwarmwatertocover.Setasidetosoakforatleast10minutes.

2Finelychopthepinenutsandfennelfrondstogetherandsetaside.Mincetheanchovyfilletsandgarlictogether,thenmashthemintoapaste.

3Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboiloverhighheat.Addthepastaandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilit’stender,butnotquitealdente,1to2minuteslessthanthepackagesays.

4Whilethepastacooks,inalargeskillet,combine4tablespoonsoftheoliveoil,themincedfennelbulb,onion,andapinchofsaltoverhighheat.Cookuntilthevegetablesbegintosoften,about5minutes.Stirinthegarlic-anchovypasteandcookfor1minute.Addthetomatopasteandstirtocoatthevegetables.Cookfor1minute,thenadd3tablespoonswaterandtoss.Draintheraisinsandaddthemtothepanalongwiththesardinesandapinchofsalt.Cookfor2minutesmore.Ifwaitingonyourpasta,turntheheatoffuntiljustbeforeyou’rereadytoaddthecookedpasta.

5Whenthepastaisready,usetongstoliftitoutofthewaterandintothepan.Add¼cupofthepastawaterandtheparsleytothepanandcook,tossingfrequently,forabout3minutes.Ifneeded,addanotherlittlebitofpastawatersothepastaisjustwet.Addthelemonjuice,theremaining2tablespoonsoliveoil,andsaltandpeppertotasteandtosswell.Platethepastaandsprinklegenerouslywiththepinenutandfennelfrondmixture.

Toastedpinenutsandfennelfronds

MEAT&POULTRY

WHENYOUCUTDOWNONTHEpoor-qualitymeatsandFlintstone-sizeportions,meatcanplayavaluableroleinahealthydiet.Thisisespeciallytruewhenitcomesfrompasture-raisedanimalsonsustainablefarms.Meatisagreatsourceofprotein,iron,zinc,andBvitamins.Butyounegatethosebenefitsifyoueatonlyconventionallyraisedmeat,orgonutsonenormousquantitieslikeIdid.That’sthefasttracktoincreasedriskfortype2diabetesandheartdisease.Istillhaveaweaknessforslow-cookedpork,meatballs,andpilesofprosciutto,butnowmeatisacomplement,notthedominatingelement,inmostofmymeals.Besidespayingattentiontoquantity,thekeystogettingusefulnutrientsandvitaminsandlessoftheartery-clogging,inflammation-inducingcraparetochooseleancutsmoreoftenandtosourcewisely.Overall,meatfrompasture-raisedanimalsisleanerthanthatfromgrain-fed

animalsonfactoryfarms,sothebetterqualitythemeat,themorelikelyitistobebetterforyou.Leanerbeefoptionsincludeflanksteak,hangersteak,topsirloin,andtopround.Whenshoppingforporkorlamb,trytenderloin,loinchops,andleg.Thismaysurpriseyouaboutpoultry—whitemeatisonlyasmidgeleanerthandark.It’scertainlynotenoughtobanchickenthighsfromyourplate.There’snodenyingthatfattymeatisfreakin’tasty,butyou’llfindthatlessfatdoesn’thavetomeanlesstaste.Youjusthavetoapproachleanmeatsdifferently.Forgetthethicksteak,the2-inch-tallburgerpatty,thewholeroastedprimeribthat’sallinteriormeatandlittlesear.Thetricktomaximizingtheflavorofleanmeatsisinsurfacearea,notthickness.Myfavoritewaytocookapieceofmeatistodevelopanincrediblyflavorful

caramelizedcrustbysearingitwithalittlesaltandoliveoilinahotpan.Whenyouincreasethesurfaceareaofmeatthattouchesthepan,yougetevenmorecaramelizing,whichequalsmoreflavor.Thekeyistosliceorpoundthemeatthin,increasingtheratioofexteriormeattointeriormeat—thisapproachisusefulwithmanycutsofmeat,butit’sespeciallysuitedtoleanercuts,likethoseintheRosemary-LemonMinuteSteakandtheFlavor-PoundedChicken,whereyoucan’trelyonhighfatcontentforflavor.Yetevenwithoutalotoffatonthemeat,cookingwiththismethodresultsinsometastypandrippings.Thatmeatynectargivesyouanopportunitytomakealight,richpansaucetodrizzleoverwhateveryou’remaking.Andyetanotherbonusisthatslicingorpoundingmeatthinmakesitcookfaster.Goodnewsallaround.Usingthisapproach,I’llshowyouacrazy-simple,versatiletechniquefor

cookingboneless,skinlesschickenbreasts.Mostchefsdon’tbotherwiththese;theconsensusisthey’reforpeoplewhodon’tmindchewingonathick,drycottonball.I’mnotafraidtoadmitIlikechickenbreasts,andit’sbecauseoftheflavorpoundingtechnique.Ifyou’reboredoutofyourskullwithdry,tastelessbird,Flavor-PoundedChickenisarevelation.Thebreastsarejuicy,packedwithbrightflavor,andtakeabout4minutestocook—adinnersavioronabusyweeknight.

Andonecriticalstepthatappliestoeveryrecipehere,whetherit’sredmeat,pork,orpoultry,leanorfat:Allowthemeattocometoroomtemperaturebeforecookingit.Thispromotesevenandefficientcooking.Justsetitonthecounter,coverit,andletitsitfor20to30minutes.

CHICKENBROTHMAKES2½QUARTSHomemadechickenbrothisonehellofapowerfulelixir.Itdrasticallyimprovestheflavorandnutritionofanythingyouuseitin.Ittakesseveralhourstocook,butit’smostlyhandsoffandrequireslittlemorethancombiningcoldwater,chickenbones/meat,andaromaticvegetablestoproduceahugebatchoffresh,nutrient-densechickenbroth.Ifyou’reusedtostore-boughtbroth,you’llbesurprisedattheenormousdifferenceinflavor.Packagedbroths,eventhewholesome-soundingorganic,free-rangestuff,literallypaleincomparisontohomemade.They’rethinanddullwherethisbrothisrichandfull-bodied(nottomentionmoreaffordable).

ThisbrothformsthefoundationfornearlyeverysoupImake.Itlastsabout1weekintherefrigeratoranduptoacoupleofmonthsinthefreezer.Foraneasywaytodevelopmoreflavorinanygraindish,usechickenbrothinsteadofwaterasthegrain’scookingliquid.

Freezesomeofthebrothinanicecubetrayandpopafewcubesintoahotpanforsautéingwithvegetables.

4poundschickenbones(anycombinationofbacks,necks,andfeet)2poundschickenwings2smallonions,peeledandquartered4smallcarrots,cutinto1-inchpieces4celerystalks,cutinto1-inchpieces½bunchflat-leafparsley1(12-ounce)canwholetomatoes,drained1teaspoonblackpeppercorns2bayleaves

1Inadeep8-quartpot,combinethebonesandwings.Runcoldwateroverthechickenpartstothoroughlyrinsethem,usingyourhandstogiveitsomedishwashingaction.Drainthewaterandlightlypackthechickeninthepot.Coverthechickenby4incheswithcoldwaterandbringittoaboilovermedium-highheat,45minutesto1hour.

2Assoonastheliquidboils,reducetheheattomediumandmovethepotsotheburnerisnotcentered,butofftooneside.(Thisencouragesthebrothtocirculateoverandaroundthemeat.)Simmer,occasionallyusingaladletoskimanddiscardanyfatandfoamyimpuritiesthatsettleonthesurface,untilthebrothlooksclear,about1hour.

3Whenthebrothlooksclear,addtheonions,carrots,celery,parsley,tomatoes,peppercorns,andbayleavesandsimmerforanother2hours.Useaspiderskimmertoremoveanddiscardanylargepiecesofmeat.Putafine-meshstraineroveranotherlargepotandpourthebroththroughit;discardthesolidsleftinthestrainer.Letthebrothcoolbeforestoring.

WHYYOUSHOULDN’TPASSONGRASSAComparisonofFactory-FarmandPasture-RaisedMeatsI’mafirmbelieverintheoldsaying“Youarewhatyoueat.”Ifyoueatanimals,youhavetotakethisonestepfurther.Youarenotonlywhatyoueat,youarewhatthatcowinyourcheeseburgerate,orwhatthechickeninyourboxoffriedwingsfeastedonforlunchlastweek.Thereisavastdifferencebetweenthenutritionalvalueofpasture-raised,humanelyraisedmeatandthetypeyou’remostlikelyeating—factory-farmmeatfromsicklyanimalsthatatecheapcornandgrainproductsandwerepumpedwithhormonesandantibiotics.That’swhyit’sincrediblyimportanttogetthehighestqualitymeatyourwalletallows.Muchofwhat’savailableatAmericansupermarketsismeatfromindustrial-scalefactoryfarmsthattreatanimalsasproductsratherthanlivingthings.Profitistheirbottomline,andlittlethoughtisgiventotheactualcareoftheanimalortheenvironment.Thebiggertheirprofits,themoreourmeatsupplyiscompromised.

Feedlotcattleandchickensarefedadietofmostlycheap,pesticide-lacedcornandothergrains—theyfattenupfast,similartopeopleshovelingdownhigh-carbfoods.Inaddition,cattleareoftengivenhormonestofurtherpromoteunnaturallyquickgrowth.Buttheissuewithcattleisthattheirstomachsaredesignedtodigestgrasses,notgrains.Thispracticewreakshavoconcows’health,sotheyhavetobeinjectedwithantibioticsregularly.Tomakemattersworse,thesecattle,pigs,andchickensspendmostoftheirstressfullivesstandinginpilesoffeceswhilepackedtogethertighterthanasubwaycarduringmorningrushhour.Thevarietyofenvironmental,economic,andmoralproblemsensuingfromthisbackwardprocessismind-boggling.

Nowconsiderwhatit’slikeforpasture-raisedanimals.Theyroamfreelywhilegrazingonanaturaldietofgrassandhay.They’renevergivengrowthhormonesandrarelygivenantibiotics.Theseanimalsareraisedmuchclosertothewaynatureintended,sothey’rehealthier.Ifthemeatyoueatcomesfromtheseanimals,you’rehealthiertoo.Pasture-raisedgrass-fedbeefislowerinoverallfatthangrain-fedbeef,buthigheringoodfatslikeomega-3fattyacidsandconjugatedlinoleicacid(CLA),whichhelpstrengthenyourheartandimmunesystem.Grain-fedbeefcontainsmoreomega-6fattyacids,thetypeoffatthatinlargequantitiescontributestochronicinflammationandcancer.It’snotjustaboutfat—meatanddairyfromgrass-fedcowshaveuptofourtimesmorevitaminE(anotherpowerfulheartdisease–andcancer-fighter),andmorevitaminA,thiamin,riboflavin,calcium,andmagnesium.Ontheflavorfront,yourtastebudsareprimedforwell-marbledcorn-fedmeatthatexplodeswithfatandsweetness.Butgrass-fedbeefiseverybitasflavorful—it’smoresavory,earthier,justplain“beefier.”Iloveit,andthequicktechniqueusedintheRosemary-LemonMinuteSteakismyfavoritewaytobringoutitsflavor.

You’refarbetteroffwithpasture-fedchickentoo.Withmoreomega-3sandvitaminE,andlessoverallsaturatedfat,itisheadsandshouldersabovethequalityofmeatfromgrain-fedchickensinfilthyfeedlots.Justlookatthedifferencebetweenpasturedchickens’brightyelloweggyolksandthemurky,palefeedlotchickenyolks.Pasture-raisedchickensalsohavemoreflavorthantheirfactory-raisedcounterpartsbecausetheywereabletomunchawayonarangeofdifferentnaturalfoods,ratherthansyntheticfood.

Unfortunately,it’snoteasytoknowwhatyou’regettingatthegrocerystore.Thelabelsonmeatpackagingarenotoriouslybaffling,andsomeofthemarejustsmoke-and-mirrorsmarketingtermsratherthanofficialcertifications.Hereareanumberofclarificationsonwhatthesedifferenttermsmean,soyouknowhowtoshopsmartformeatthatnotonlytastesgood,butisinfinitelybetterforyou:

Withbeef,knowthatevenifit’sUSDA-CertifiedOrganic,it’snotnecessarilygrass-fed.CertifiedOrganicbeefmeansthebeefcomesfromcattlethathaven’tbeenshotupwithantibioticsorhormonesandhavebeenfedcertifiedorganicfood.Butthatcowcouldhavebeenraisedoncornandothergrains,whichmeansitstillhasanunhealthyfatbalanceofmoreomega-6sthanomega-3s.Evenifcattlearefedorganicgrains,theirmeatisnotasnutritiousasgrass-fed.

Ideally,youcanpurchaseredmeat(beef,sheep,andlamb)that’scertifiedgrass-fedbytheAmericanGrassfedAssociation.Yourneighborhoodsupermarketmaynotcarryit,soagoodplacetostartisyourlocalfarmers’market.Askthesevendorsquestions.Doyouraiseyourlivestock?Isyourmeathormone-andantibiotic-free?Whatdoyoufeedyouranimals?Evenifitisn’tcertified100%grass-fed,meatfromatrustedlocalfarmerfeedingtheirlivestockgrassandhayisagoodchoice.YoucanalsotryretailstoresalongthelinesofWholeFoods.Whenbuyingpoultry,birdslabeledasUSDA-CertifiedOrganicandpasturedorpasture-raisedarethebestoption.Theseareeasiertofindinsupermarketsthesedays.GreatonlineresourceslikeEatWild.org,AmericanGrassFed.org,andLocalHarvest.orghavedirectoriesofpasture-basedfarmsinyourarea.Someofthemwillshipthemeatstraighttoyourdoor.

Formanypeople,thedownsideofbuyingpasturedmeatisitshighpricetag.Itcanbeshocking,ifyou’reusedtobuyingstandard-issue,grain-fedmeat.Myfamilygoesthe“paymoreandeatless”routesuggestedbyMichaelPollan.Thepricemaysting,butIknowI’mpayingthetruecostofwhatittakestoraiseandfeedanimalsinahealthy,ethical,environmentallysoundway.

DECODINGMEATLABELINGTERMS(an asterisk indicates that this label comes from the USDA [U.S. Department ofAgriculture])*NoAntibioticsAdded/*RaisedWithoutAntibiotics/Antibiotic-Free:Meatandpoultryproductscanbelabeled“noantibioticsadded,”“raisedwithoutantibiotics,”and“noantibiotics”iftheproducerdocumentsthattheanimalswereraisedwithoutantibiotics,andthatthemeatisnotfromasickanimaltreatedwithantibiotics.Note:Thelabel“antibiotic-free”isn’tUSDA-approved,andisnotallowedonmeatlabels.*Cage-Free:Onaneggcarton,thismeansthatthelayinghenswerenotraisedincages,butitdoesn’talwaysmeanthehenshaveaccesstotheoutdoors,nordoesittellyouwhatthehensarefed.Onapackageofchicken,thistermismeaningless—poultryraisedfortheirmeatarerarelycaged.Certifiedhumane:TheHumaneFarmAnimalCare,anonprofitorganization,regulatesthislabel,andcertifiesthatthefarmanimalsweretreatedhumanely—notraisedincagesorcrates,injectedwithgrowthhormones,orunnecessarilyadministeredantibiotics.*FreeRange:Thislabelonapackageofchickentellsyouthebirdshavebeenallowedaccesstotheoutdoors.Itisnotthesameaspastured,becausethere’snorequirementfortheamountoftimethechickenisoutside,northequalityorsizeoftheoutdoorspace.*Grass-Fed:ThegoldstandardforthiscertificationisfromtheAmericanGrassfedAssociation,whichsays“100%grass-fed”onmeatanddairyproductsfromanimalsraisedsolelyonnaturalgrassesandhay,notgrains.TheUSDAgrass-fedlabelisnotascomprehensive—thereisaloopholeallowinganimalstospendpartoftheirlivesinconfinedpens.Halal:MeatwiththehalallabelisacceptableaccordingtoIslamiclaw,andguaranteesthattheanimalwasfedanaturaldietandslaughteredinaspecificway.Butitdoesnothavestandardsforantibioticusageortheenvironmenttheanimalisraisedin.*NoHormonesAdministered/Hormone-Free:Thisisforbeefanddairyproducts,andcanbeusedonlyifproducersdocumentthatthecattlewereraisedwithouthormones.Itdoesn’tspecifyiftheanimalreceivedantibiotics.Kosher:KoshercertifiedmeatanddairyisacceptableaccordingtoJewishdietarylaws.Tobekosher,themeathastocomefromananimalslaughteredaccordingtospecificstandards,butdoesnotaddresstheuseofgrowthhormonesorantibiotics.*Natural:Thistermonlyclarifiesthatnoartificialcolors,flavors,orpreservativeswereaddedtothemeatduringprocessing.Naturallyraised:Thisstandardclarifies“livestockusedfortheproductionofmeatandmeatproductshavebeenraisedentirelywithoutgrowthpromotants,antibiotics,andhaveneverbeenfedanimalby-products.”Soyougetsomeassuranceabouthowtheanimalwasfed,butyoucan’ttellifitwasraisedoutdoorsorcrammedincages.*Organic/*CertifiedOrganic:Thismeansthatanimalshavebeenraisedwithout

antibioticsandhormonesandthat,iftheywerefedgrains,thosegrainsareorganic.Certifiedorganicmeatmustalsocomefromanimalsthathaveatleastsomeaccesstopasture.Allfoodlabeledasorganicisverifiedbyanindependentorganization.Pasture-Raised/Pastured:Thislabelimpliesthatcattlehadyear-roundaccesstoapasture.“Pasture-raised”and“100%grass-fed”aretheonlylabelsmeanttogiveyoutheassurancethattheanimalswerenotfedgrains,whichiswhymanypeopleconsidertheseevenbetterthan“organic.”However,pasture-raisedisnotaregulatedterm,soproducerscanuseithowevertheylike.

BONEBROTHSIlikeusingchickenwingsinadditiontochickenbonesbecausethatbitofmeatbooststheflavorofthebroth,andchickenwingsareinexpensiveandtypicallyeasiertofindthanchickenfeetandnecks.Ifyoudon’tseepackagesofchickenbonesinthemeatsectionofyourgrocerystore,askthebutcher—there’sagoodchancetheyhavesomeintheback.Ifnot,youcanincreasethechickenwingsto6pounds(justmakesureyouusealargerpot).Besidestheiramazingflavorandincomparableusefulnessincooking,bonebrothsarepowerfulhealthtonics.Youknowchickensoup’sreputationasaremedyforcoldsandtheflu?There’ssciencetobackthatup:Anybrothmadebyboilinganimalboneswithafewvegetablesandherbshasimmensebenefits.Bonebrothsarehighinmineralslikecalcium,magnesium,andphosphorous,whicharegoodforbonesandteeth.Thecollageninbonebrothssupportsthedevelopmentofhealthyjoints,ligamentsandtendons,hair,andskin.Gelatinmaximizestheeffectsofdigestivejuices,makingiteasiertodigestprotein,grains,andbeans.Andthereasonit’sparticularlygreatwhenyou’resickisthatallthegoodstuffinbonebrothsiseasilyprocessedandabsorbedbyyourbody.Sincebrothsareaconcentratedsourceofanimalbones,it’simportantthatyouusebonesonlyfrompasture-raisedchicken,grass-fedbeef,orwild-caughtfish.

ThaiChickenCoconutSoup

THAICHICKENCOCONUTSOUPSERVES4TO6Thishasthatcomforting,cure-alleffectthatIloveinachickensoup,andit’spackedwithrichflavor.You’llquestionitsvirtuebecauseit’ssocreamyandsatisfying—itjusttastestoodamngoodtobehealthy!Butthere’sactuallyabunchofbeneficialstuffinhere,includingthegreatfatincoconutmilkandthedigestion-enhancingpowersofgalangal.

Galangallooksalotlikeitscousinginger,butit’sdenserandhasasharperflavorthattastesmorelikepepper.Ifyoucan’tfinditatyourgrocery,youcanuseginger.Itdoesn’ttastethesamebutworksjustaswellwiththeotherflavorsinthesoup.Eitherway,besuretosliceitasthinaspossible.Whateverisleftoverofyourknobofgalangalorgingercanbefrozen,andyoucanjustgratethefrozenpieceasneeded.Theideaofsippinggingeraletosettleanupsetstomachcomesfromginger’spowerasadigestiveaid.Bothgingerandgalangalarenaturalremediesforindigestion,heartburn,nausea,andotherfunkystomachissues.Peoplewitharthritisbenefitfromeatingfreshgingerorgalangalregularlybecausebothhavepotentanti-inflammatoryproperties.

2(12-ounce)cansunsweetenedcoconutmilk3cupsChickenBroth1stalkfreshlemongrass,cutinto3piecesandsmashedwiththeflatsideofaknife1(1-inch)piecegalangal,peeledandcutintoabout20thinslicesGratedzestof1lime1poundboneless,skinlesschickenbreasts,cutinto1½-inch-longstrips½largeonion,diced(about1cup)1smallredbellpepper,diced(about1cup)1smallfreshThaichile,cutintoabout15thinslices8ounceswhitebuttonmushrooms,quartered(about2cups)½cupfreshlimejuice(4to5limes)3½tablespoonsfishsauce2tablespoonscoconutpalmsugar(optional)⅓cuppackedcilantroleaves,plusmoreforgarnish

1Inalargepot,combinethecoconutmilk,chickenbroth,lemongrass,galangalslices,andlimezestandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomedium-lowandsimmerfor15minutes.

2Addthechicken,onion,bellpepper,chile,mushrooms,limejuice,fishsauce,andcoconutsugar(ifusing),andgiveitallastir.Simmerfor15minutes.

3Stirinthecilantro,turnofftheheat,andcover.Letitsitfor10minutes,sothecilantro

cansteep.Scoopoutanddiscardthelemongrass.Toserve,ladleintobowlsandtopeachwithcilantroleaves.

JapaneseChickenandRiceSoup

JAPANESECHICKENANDRICESOUPSERVES4TO6IfIhaven’tharpedenoughonhowadvantageousitistohavehomemadechickenbrothonhand,thisrecipeshouldhitithomeforyou.Injust25minutes,you’rediggingintoabowlofwarming,deeplyflavorful,umami-filled,immunity-boostingsoup.Thinstripsofchickenquicklypoachinbrothswimmingwithbrownrice,toastednori,shiitakemushrooms,tamari,andabitoflemonjuice.Ifindthere’salotofsymmetrybetweenItalianandJapanesecuisines,notonlyfortheiremphasisonseasonalityandsimplicity,butalsofortheirheavyrelianceonumamiingredients.WhereItaliancooksusetomatoes,anchovies,Parmesancheese,anddriedporcinis,Japaneseusesoysauce,tamari,misopaste,seaweed,andbonitoflakes(dried,fermentedfish).

Noriisdriedseaweed,whichyouprobablyknowbestasthewrapperforsushirolls.Ilovehowitaddsahintofsaltyseaflavortotheearthinessofthemushroomsandtherichchickenbroth.LookfortoastednoristripsintheAsianfoodsectionofyourstore.IuseEdenFoodsNoriKrinkles.TamariisastapleinmostAsianpantries.Itlooksandtastesalotlikesoysauce,sincethey’rebothmadefromfermentedsoybeans.Thedifferenceisthatsoysauceisalmostalwaysmadewithwheatandtamariistraditionallymadewithlittleornowheat.Tamari’srichconcentrationofsoybeansgivesitadarkercoloranddeeper,smootherflavorthansoysauce.It’salsolesssalty,soIpreferittosoysauceforcooking.

7cupsChickenBroth1poundboneless,skinlesschickenbreasts,thinlyslicedinto1-inch-longpieces1teaspoonfinelygratedfreshginger3½ouncesfreshshiitakemushrooms,stemsdiscarded,capsthinlysliced(about1½cups)1cupcookedbrownrice½cupnoricrinkles(oryoucansliceupyourowntoastednorisheetsinto½-inchsquares)2tablespoonstamariJuiceof½lemon1bunchscallions,whiteandpalegreenpartsonly,thinlysliced(about½cup)

1Inalargepot,bringthechickenbrothtoaboiloverhighheat.Inasmallbowl,combinethechickenandgingerandmixwell.

2Whenthebrothreachesaboil,bringtheheatdowntomedium.Addtheginger-marinatedchickenandgiveitastir.Addtheshiitakes,rice,nori,tamari,andlemonjuiceandstir.Coverandcookfor5minutes.Stirinthescallions.Ladleintobowlsandserve.

MexicanChickenSoup

MEXICANCHICKENSOUPSERVES4TO6ThislivelychickensoupreliesontheessentialMexicanflavorsofcorn,lime,cilantro,avocado,andjalapeño.Theheatfromthejalapeñoisfairlymild,soifyoulikethingswithmoreassertiveheat,addanotherjalapeñoandleaveintheseeds.Thechickenherecomesfrompan-roasted,bone-in,skin-onchickenbreasts;theboneandskincontributeimmenselytotheflavorandmoistnessofthechicken.Cookingmeatonthebonehelpseventhedistributionofheatandtheskinprotectstheexteriorsoitdoesn’tdryoutbeforetheinsideiscooked.Youcanusethissimplemethodtoroastafewpoundsofbone-in,skin-onchickenbreastsandkeepthemeataroundforsoups,sandwiches,andquicksnacks.

2poundsbone-in,skin-onchickenbreasts,rinsedandpatteddryFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil1cupchoppedcarrots2cupschoppedcelery2cupschoppedonion1freshjalapeñopepper,seededandminced2tomatoes,halved,juiced,androughlychoppedor1(14.5-ounce)canwholetomatoes,drainedandchopped(about2cups)1cupfreshorfrozencornkernels7cupsChickenBroth¼cupchoppedfreshcilantro1tablespoonfreshlimejuice2avocadosThinlyslicedradishes,cilantroleaves,andlimewedges,forserving(optional)

1Letthechickencometoroomtemperatureabout20minutesbeforecooking.Preheattheovento425°F.Generouslyseasonthechickenonbothsides.

2Inanovenproofskillet,heat1tablespoonoftheoliveoiloverhighheat.Whentheoilslideseasilyacrossthepan,addthechickenskin-sidedownandcook,untouched,for1minute.Transfertheskillettotheovenandcookuntilthechickenshowsnosignofpinkwhenpiercednearthebone,about30minutes.Flipeachbreastandsettheskilletasideuntilthechickeniscoolenoughtohandle.Choporshredthemeatintobite-sizepieces,discardingtheskinandbones.

3Inalargepot,heattheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoiloverhighheat.Whentheoilishot,addthecarrots,celery,onions,andjalapeño.Stirandcookfor1minute.Reducethe

heattomedium,cover,andcookfor10minutes,stirringoccasionally.Addthetomatoes,corn,andafewpinchesofsalt.Coverandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthetomatoesstarttosoften,about5minutes.Addthebrothandbringittoaboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor15minutes.Addthechicken,cilantro,andlimejuiceandsimmerfor5minutes.

4Toserve,scoopone-quarterofanavocadointoeachbowlandchopitupintoafewchunks.Ladlethesoupoveritandaddanyofthetoppingsyoulike.

NewYorkCityJewish-StyleChickenSoup

NEWYORKCITYJEWISH-STYLECHICKENSOUPSERVES4TO6ClassicJewishchickensoupisagloriousthing.Forme,it’suptherewithribollita(myfavoriteTuscansoup)asoneofthebestwaystofullyappreciatethesimplicityandbeautyofbroth-basedsoup.MyversiontakescuesfromthemanybowlsIdugintoovertheyearsattheoriginal2ndAveDeli,oneofNewYorkCity’smostfamousJewishdelis.Iroastbone-in,skin-onchickenbreastsandaddthemeattoagoldenpoolofchickenbroth,alongwithdillandchunksofcarrots,celery,andonion.AfterconsultingmyHebrewhelper,anexpertonthematter,IalsoworkedintheJewish“goldencoins.”Traditionally,thesearedollopsofchickenfatthatrisetothetopofthesoupanddon’tgetskimmedoff.Mynodtothefattygoodnessofthegoldencoinsistotopeachservingwithgenerousdotsofextravirginoliveoil.

2poundsbone-in,skin-onchickenbreasts,rinsedandpatteddryFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil,plusmoreforgarnish2largecarrots,halvedlengthwiseandcutcrosswiseinto¼-inch-thickslices(about2cups)4celerystalks,chopped(about1½cups)1largeonion,cutintolargedice(about2cups)7cupsChickenBroth2tablespoonschoppedfreshdill

1Letthechickencometoroomtemperatureabout20minutesbeforecooking.Preheattheovento425°F.Generouslyseasonthechickenonbothsideswithsaltandpepper.

2Inalargeovenproofskillet,heat1tablespoonoftheoliveoiloverhighheat.Whentheoilslideseasilyacrossthepan,addthechickenskin-sidedownandcook,untouched,for1minute.Transfertheskillettotheovenandcookuntilthechickenshowsnosignofpinkwhenpiercednearthebone,about30minutes.Flipeachbreastandsettheskilletasideuntilthechickeniscoolenoughtohandle.Choporshredthemeatintobite-sizepieces(thesecangobackintotheskillet),discardingtheskinandbones.

3Inalargepot,heattheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoiloverhighheat.Whentheoilshimmers,addthecarrots,celery,onion,andapinchofsaltandcookfor1minute.Reducetheheattomedium,cover,andcookfor15minutes,stirringoccasionally.Pourinthechickenbrothandbringtoaboil.Reducetheheatandsimmeruntilthevegetablesaretenderabout15minutes.Addthechicken(includingthejuicesitreleasedintheskillet)anddillandsimmerfor5minutesmore.Addsalttotaste.

4Toserve,ladleintobowlsanddotthetopofeachservingwithacoupleof½-teaspoon

“goldencoins”ofoliveoil.

Flavor-PoundedChicken

FLAVOR-POUNDEDCHICKENSERVES4ForyearsIhadzerorespectforboneless,skinlesschickenbreastsandquestionedwhyanyonebotheredwithafoodsoblandandoppressivelydrythateatingitfeelslikechewingonatowel.ButasIsetoffonthepathtoeatbetter,Icouldn’thelpbutcomeface-to-facewithboneless,skinlesschickenbreasts.They’relean,fullofprotein,versatile,and,asitturnsout,capableofcarryingatonofflavorandjuicinessifyoucookthemright.Todothis,Ibutterflythebreastandpoundthemeatthin,soitcooksevenlyandquicklywithoutdryingout.Thisalsoincreasesthesurfaceareaofmeattouchingthepan,leadingtothatdeeplyflavorfulcrustIwant.ThenImakeamixtureofTuscanflavors—oliveoil,choppedsageandrosemary,lemon,andgarlic—andliterallypounditdirectlyintobothsidesofthebreast.Afterjust90secondsinahotpan,thepayoffisaninsanelytender,deliciouschickenbreastthathasallthesucculenceofdarkmeat.Anotherperktothismethodisthatthesizeofthethinned-outmeattricksyouintothinkingyou’regettingalotmorethanjustonebreast.(Whenyourplatelooksfull,youtendtobelieveyou’reeatingmoreandfeelfullasaresult.)

Thebestresultscomefromsmallerchickenbreasts—they’reeasiertopoundouttoauniformthickness.Youcaneasilypreparethebreastsaheadoftime—afterstep2,justcoverthechickeninplasticwrapandrefrigerate,andthey’llkeepforupto2days.Youcanalsocookmorethanoneatatime,butbesureyoudon’tovercrowdthepan,oryou’llhaveahardtimedevelopingacaramelizedcrust.

4(6-to8-ounce)boneless,skinlesschickenbreasts12largefreshsageleaves,roughlychoppedLeavesfrom2sprigsoffreshrosemary,roughlychoppedGratedzestof2smalllemons2smallgarliccloves,roughlychopped1tablespoonfineseasaltFreshlygroundblackpepper8teaspoonsextravirginoliveoil,plus4tablespoonsforcooking4lemonwedges

1Startingatthethickerside,makealengthwisecutintothetoptwo-thirdsofachickenbreast,stoppingbeforecuttingallthewaythrough.Folditopenlikeabook.(Thechickenbreastshouldstillbeinonepiece.)Putthebreastbetweentwopiecesofplasticwrapandpounditoutonbothsideswiththeflatsideofameattenderizer,workingfromtheinsideout,untilit’sspreadtodoubleitsoriginalsizeandabout¼inchthick.Repeatwiththeremainingbreasts.

2Pilethesage,rosemary,lemonzest,andgarliconacuttingboardandchoptogetheruntil

blended.Inabowl,combinetheherbmixture,salt,afewgrindsofblackpepper,and8teaspoonsoftheoliveoil.Dividehalfoftheherbpasteevenlyacrossonesideofthe4chickenbreastsandrubitin.Coverwithplasticwrapagainandlightlypoundintheseasoningwiththetoothysideofthemeattenderizer.Flipthebreasts,rubtheremainingherbpasteintotheothersideofthechickenbreasts.Coverwithplasticwrapandlightlypoundintheseasoning.

3Inalargeskilletheat1tablespoonoftheoliveoiloverhighheat.Wait2minutes,oruntilit’ssmokinghot,add1chickenbreast,putaweightonit(ateakettleorheavypan)andcookfor45seconds.Flip,addtheweight,andcookforanother45seconds.Transfertoaplate,andletitrestfor3minutes.Meanwhile,repeatwiththeremainingchickenbreasts.Squeezeawedgeoflemonovereachflavor-poundedchickenjustbeforeserving.

Butterflythebreast,makingalengthwisecutintothetoptwo-thirds.

Coverthemeatwithplasticwrapandpoundonbothsideswiththeflatsideofameattenderizer.

Unwrapandaddtheseasoning,thenrewrapandpoundwiththetoothysideofthemeattenderizer.

VariationsWhileTuscanflavorsaremynaturalinclination,IoftenmakeoneoftheFlavor-PoundedChickenvariationsbelow.Except for thecouple instances that I’venoted,steps1and3are the same for all.Onceyouget anunderstandingof theprocess, I encourageyou tofollowyourownpreferencesandstartpoundingwhateverflavoryoulikeintothechicken.

INDIAN

2teaspoonsgroundcumin2teaspoonsturmeric2teaspoonsonionpowder2teaspoonsgroundcoriander1tablespoonfineseasaltFreshlygroundblackpepper2teaspoonsextravirginoliveoil

Forstep2:Inabowl,combinethecumin,turmeric,onionpowder,coriander,salt,severalgrindsofpepper,andtheoliveoil.Seasonandpoundasdescribedinthemainrecipe.

Indian

MAPLESPICE

2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon2teaspoonsfreshlygratednutmeg2teaspoonsgroundginger1tablespoonfineseasaltFreshlygroundblackpepper4teaspoonsmaplesyrup

Forstep2:Inabowl,combinethecinnamon,nutmeg,ginger,salt,andseveralgrindsofpepper.Dividehalfthespicemixtureevenlyacrossonesideofthe4chickenbreastsanddrizzle½teaspoonmaplesyrupovereach.Rubintheseasoningandmaplesyrup.Coverwithplasticwrapandlightlypoundintheseasoningwiththetoothysideofthemeattenderizer.Flipandrubtherestofthespicemixtureintotheothersideofthechickenbreasts.Drizzleanother½teaspoonmaplesyrupovereachbreast.Coverwithplasticwrapandlightlypoundintheseasoning.

ITALIAN-AMERICAN

2teaspoonsgarlicpowder2teaspoonsdriedoregano1tablespoonfineseasalt4teaspoonsgratedParmigiano-ReggianocheeseFreshlygroundblackpepper4teaspoonsextravirginoliveoil2teaspoonstomatopaste

Forstep2:Inabowl,combinethegarlicpowder,oregano,salt,Parmesan,severalgrindsofpepper,andtheoliveoil.Dividehalftheoreganomixtureevenlyacrossonesideofthe4chickenbreastsandadd¼teaspoontomatopastetoeachbreast.Rubintheseasoningandtomatopaste.Coverwithplasticwrapandlightlypoundintheseasoningwiththetoothysideofthemeattenderizer.Flipanddividetherestoftheoreganomixtureevenlyacrosstheothersideofthechickenbreasts.Addanother¼teaspoonoftomatopastetoeachbreastandrubitin.Coverwithplasticwrapbeforelightlypoundingagain.

Italian-American

THAI

Gratedzestof4limes2teaspoonsgratedfreshginger4teaspoonschoppedfreshcilantro1teaspoongroundcardamom1tablespoonfineseasalt2teaspoonsfishsauce2teaspoonstamarindpaste(optional)4tablespoonsvirgincoconutoil4limewedges

Forstep2:Inabowl,combinethelimezest,ginger,cilantro,cardamom,salt,fishsauce,andtamarindpaste(ifusing).Dividehalfthemixtureevenlyacrossonesideofthe4chickenbreastsandrubitin.Coverwithplasticwrapandlightlypoundintheseasoningwiththetoothysideofthemeattenderizer.Flipandrubtherestofthemixtureintotheothersideofthechickenbreasts.Coverwithplasticwrapandlightlypoundintheseasoning.

Forstep3:Substitutecoconutoilforoliveoilandsqueezeawedgeoflimeovereachflavor-poundedchickenjustbeforeserving.

JAPANESE

Gratedzestof2lemons2teaspoonsgratedfreshginger2teaspoonsdriedseaweedgranules(dulse,kelp,nori,anykindworks)4teaspoonssoysauceortamari4teaspoonstoastedsesameoil1tablespoonfineseasalt

Forstep2:Inabowl,combinethelemonzest,ginger,seaweedgranules,soysauce,sesameoil,andsalt.Seasonandpoundasdescribedinthemainrecipe.

Japanese

Flavor-PoundedChickenisexcellentovergreens.Tossarugulaandslicedredonionswithbalsamicvinegarandextravirginoliveoil.MakeabedofsaladonaplateandtopitwithanFPC.Theresidualheatfromthechickenworksitswayintothegreensanddoessomethingmagical.

Herb-RoastedSpatchcockChicken

HERB-ROASTEDSPATCHCOCKCHICKENSERVES4I’mallaboutspatchcocking—itishandsdownmyfavoritetechniqueforroastingachicken.Inalotlesstimethanittakestocookawholebird,yougetevenlycooked,ridiculouslytender,moistchickenwithall-overbrowned,crispyskin.Byremovingthebackboneandthebreastbone(calledthekeelbone),thebirdliesflat,moreskinisexposedtotheheat,andit’seasiertocutintopiecesthanawhole,intactbird.Aquickpan-searbeforeroastinggivestheskinadeepbrowncolor,andasimplelemonandgarlicpansauceisanicefinishingtouch.Ilikecastironforthisbecauseitholdsheatwellandevenly,butyoucanusearegular12-inchpanifthat’swhatyouhave.

CHICKEN

1(3½-to4-pound)wholechicken1½tablespoonschoppedfreshrosemaryGratedzestof2lemons1garlicclove,finelygrated3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoilFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

PANSAUCE

3garliccloves,peeledandcracked1sprigoffreshrosemaryJuiceof1lemonRedpepperflakes(optional)

1Letthechickencometoroomtemperature30minutesbeforeyou’rereadytocook.Puta12-inchcastironskilletintheovenandheatitto425°F.

2Combinetherosemary,lemonzest,andgarliconacuttingboardandfinelychoptogether.Inasmallbowl,combinetheherbmixture,1tablespoonoliveoil,½teaspoonsalt,andabout10grindsofpepperintoapaste.

3Rinseandpatdrywithpapertowels.Putthechickenbreast-sidedownonacuttingboardwiththeneckendclosesttoyou.Trimanyexcessskinandfatfromtheopeningoftheneckcavity.Removethebackbonebycuttingalongeachsideofitfromthenecktothetail.

4Toremovethekeelbone(thebreastbone),pressthechickenopenwidertoexposethecavity.Attheneckend,usetheheelofasharpknifetomakea1-inchcutonbothsidesofthekeelbone.Bendthebirdback,splayingitopenlikeabook.Cutthemembranealongthecenterofthechickentoexposethekeelboneandcartilage.Runyourthumbsupand

underbothsidesofthecartilageuntilitseparatesfromthebreast.Graduallypulloutthecartilageandkeelbone.

5Flipthechickenoverbreast-sideupanduseyourindexfingertoloosentheskinofthedrumsticks,thighs,andbreasts.Tucktheherbpasteundertheskin,spreadingitintoanevenlayerbypressingandpushingitaroundfromthetopoftheskin.

6Takethehotskilletoutoftheovenandcontinuetoheatitonthestovetopoverhighheat.Generouslyseasonbothsidesofthechickenwithsaltandpepper.Addtheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoiltothepanandswirlitaroundtocoat.Putthechickeninskin-sidedown,cookfor3minutes,thentransferittotheoven.Roastfor30minutes.Tocheckfordoneness,pokethethickestpartofthethighwithafork.Ifthejuicesrunclear,it’sdone.Ifthey’repink,roastfor5moreminutes.Iftheskinhasn’tcrispedup,cookitonthestoveoverhighheatfor2minutes.Transferthechickentoalargeplatetorestfor10minutes.

7Forthepansauce:Addthegarlic,rosemary,andlemonjuicetothepanandputitoverhighheat(throwinredpepperflakesforalittlespice).Scrapethebottomtoloosenthecaramelizedbitsofchicken.Spoonanychickenjuicesthathavereleasedontheplateintothepan.Cookfor3minutes.Pourthesauceoverthechickenandserve.

Removethebackbone.

Makea1-inchcutonbothsidesofthekeelbone.

Runyourthumbsunderbothsidesofthecartilage.

BraisedChickenThighswithGarlic,Lemon,andGreekOlives

BRAISEDCHICKENTHIGHSWITHGARLIC,LEMON,ANDGREEKOLIVESSERVES4Thiseasyone-potdinnerisallaboutchickenthighs,theunderdogofthepoultryworld.Thethighs’dark,nutrient-densemeatisundeniablyricher,juicier,andmoretenderthanwhitemeat.Also,highdemandforboneless,skinlesschickenbreastsmeansthedeepflavorandjuicypotentialofthechickenthighscomesatanunbelievablevalue.Thighsontheboneareaforgivingcutthatcantaketheheatwithoutdryingout,sothemeatturnsoutmeltinglysoftandjuicy.Thelemonslicescookdownintheliquidgoldofthechickenfatandjuice,infusingthewholedishwithbrightflavorthatbalancestherichnessofthemeat.Thiscomestogetherinaboutanhourandissimpleenoughforaweeknightdinner,andfancyenoughtoservetoguests.Yes,darkmeathasmorefatthanwhitemeat,butthedifferenceisminimal—about1gramperounce.DarkmeatalsodeliversconsiderablymoreironandBvitaminsandtwicetheamountofzincaswhitemeat.

Theolivesprovidesaltinesshere,sogoeasyonthesaltinsteps1and3.

8bone-in,skin-onchickenthighsFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil12garliccloves,peeled2largeyellowonions,thinlysliced(about4cups)1lemon,thinlyslicedandseedsdiscarded2tablespoonsfreshoreganoleaves,plusmoreforgarnish1cupmixedGreekolivesJuiceof1lemon

1Letthechickencometoroomtemperatureabout20minutesbeforecooking.Preheattheovento350°F.Seasonthechickenonbothsideswithsaltandpepper.

2Inanovenproofpan(a3.5-quartbraiserorDutchoven)largeenoughtoholdallthethighsinasinglelayer,heattheoliveoiloverhighheat.Whenthepanishotandtheoilslideseasilyacrossthepan,addthethighsskin-sidedown.Resisttheurgetomovethemaround,allowingthemtocookuntoucheduntilyougetanice,goldenbrownsearontheskin,5to6minutes.Addthegarlicclovestothepanandflipeachthighover.Cookuntilthegarlichastakenonsomebrowning,about3minutes.Removethechickenandgarlicfromthepanandsetonaplate.

3Withthepanstilloverhighheat,addtheonions,lemonslices,oregano,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Stirtocoateverythingintheoilandloosenupthebrownedbitsonthebottomofthepan.Cookfor5minutes.Nestlethethighsskin-sideupintheonionmixture

andaddthecookedgarlicclovesandtheolives.Squeezethelemonjuiceoverthechickenandtransferthepantotheoventobakefor40minutes.Scatterfreshoreganoleavesoverthetopandserve.

MixedvegetablesandherbsforMeatloaf

GRASS-FEDBEEFMEATLOAFWITHROASTEDBROCCOLI,CARROT,ANDONIONSERVES6Ilovemeatballs,soit’sprettyobviousIlovemeatloaftoo.It’ssohitormiss,though—whenit’sgood,meatloafismoist,light,wellseasoned,andmadewithhigh-qualitybeef.Whenit’snot(andit’susuallynot),it’saheavy,breadcrumb-loaded,flavorlesslumpoffeedlotbeefblanketedinsugaryketchup.Onmyelusivequestformeatloafthatdeliversonflavorandtexturewithoutrelyingoncarbsorhigh-fructosecondiments,I’vecomeupwithafewtricks.First,Iuseamixtureofgroundflaxseedandmilktobindeverythingtogetherinthemeatloaf.Itactsjustlikebreadcrumbs,withoutthewhiteflourorgluten.Ialsoaddamixtureofsautéedmincedvegetablestogivemoisturetothemeatasitcooks,whichpreventsitfromenteringdense,dryterritory.Tolightenuptheearthybeefflavor,Iworkinbrightflavorfromherbsandlemonzest.Andfinally,ratherthancookitinaloafpan,Ishapetheloaffreeformonabakingsheettoencourageanicebrowncrustonallsides.Ifthereareleftovers,Ihighlyrecommendcoldmeatloafsandwichesforlunch.

MEATLOAF

2pounds100%grass-fedgroundbeef⅓cupgroundflaxseeds½cupwholemilk1mediumredonion,roughlychopped(about1cup)1largecarrot,roughlychopped(about½cup)1celerystalk,roughlychopped(about½cup)4garliccloves,roughlychopped(about2tablespoons)1tablespoonroughlychoppedfreshrosemary1tablespoonroughlychoppedfreshsage2tablespoonsroughlychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyPeelof1lemon2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil¼cupfreshlygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese1½tablespoonsfineseasaltFreshlygroundblackpepper2extra-largeeggs

VEGETABLES

1headbroccoli1smallyellowonion4smallcarrots,peeled(ifbiggerthan½inchindiameter,halvethemlengthwise)2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoilLeavesfrom1sprigoffreshsage,roughlytornLeavesfrom1sprigoffreshrosemaryFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Forthemeatloaf:Letthemeatcometoroomtemperatureabout20minutesbeforecooking.Preheattheovento350°F.Linea12×18-inchbakingsheetwithfoil.Inabowl,combinethegroundflaxseedsandmilkandsetaside.

2Inafoodprocessor,combinetheredonion,carrot,celery,garlic,herbs,andlemonpeelandpulsejustuntileverythingisminced(nottoolongoryou’llgetapureed,waterymixture).

3Ina10-inchskillet,heattheoliveoiloverhighheat.Whenyouseewispsofsmokecomingoffthepan,addthemincedvegetablemixtureandcookfor3minutestosoftenthemandbringoutmoreflavor.Settheskilletasidetoletthemixturecool.

4Inalargebowl,combinethebeef,Parmesan,flaxseed-milkmixture,salt,agooddoseofpepper(about25grinds),andtheeggs.Addthecooledvegetablemixture.Usingyourhands,mixjustlongenoughtoincorporateeverythingtogether(donotoverworkthemeat).

5Moistenyourhandsalittlesothemeatwon’tsticktothem.Ona12×18-inchbakingsheet,formthemeatintoaloafshapeabout12incheslong×5incheswide×2inchestall.

6Forthevegetables:Trimthebroccoliandcutitlengthwiseintospearssothestalkandfloretsstayintactaslittletrees.Halvetheyellowonionfromroottotip,thencuteachhalflengthwiseinto5wedges.Inalargebowl,combinethebroccoli,onion,carrots,oliveoil,andherbs.Addsaltandpeppertotaste,thentosstocombine.Scatterthevegetablesinasinglelayeraroundthemeatloaf(it’sokayifthey’recrowded).

7Bakethemeatloaffor45minutes.Flipthevegetablesandbakeuntilthemeatloafisbrownedandaninstant-readthermometerinsertedinthecenterreads150°F,aboutanother30minutes.Removefromtheovenandletthemeatloafrestfor15minutesbeforeslicing.

GINGER-SCALLIONTURKEYBURGERSMAKES6PATTIESDespitetheirfast-foodassociation,there’snothinginherently“bad”aboutburgers.It’sthelacklusterqualityofmeat,processedwhiteflourbuns,andmountainsofcheeseandsugaryketchupthatmuckthingsup.I’vealwaysbeenabeefhamburgerkindofguy,butI’verecentlycometoappreciateturkeyburgersintheirownright.Despitethosecrumbly,dried-outhockey-puckversionsyoumayhavetried,turkeyburgersCANbejuicy!Thekeytomaximumjuicinessistousegroundturkeythighmeat,notjustwhitemeat.Thethigh’sdarkmeatandhigherfatcontentgiveitaricherflavor.Notonlyisturkeyleanerthanbeef,itsmilderflavorisanadvantagebecauseanyfreshherbsandspicesyouaddtoitwillreallycomethroughinthefinishedburger.SowhileImaybeapuristwithbeefburgers,Ilikemyturkeyburgerstobedeckedoutwithafewflavorfulmix-ins.MyfavoritesamongthemaretheboldAsianflavorsofginger,scallions,garlic,andsoysauce.Formyourpattiesnothickerthan½inch,soyouhavemoresurfaceareatosearandcaramelize.Wetyourhandswithalittlewaterbeforeformingpatties,sothemeatdoesn’tstick.

1poundgroundturkey,preferablythighmeat3tablespoonsmincedscallions,whiteandpalegreenpartsonly1teaspoongratedfreshginger½teaspoongratedgarlic(about1mediumclove)2teaspoonssoysauceortamariFineseasaltExtravirginoliveoil

1Inalargebowl,combinetheturkey,scallions,ginger,garlic,andsoysauce.Usingarubberspatulaoryourhands,combinealltheingredients.

2Formthemixtureinto6(½-inch-thick)patties,about⅓cupofmixtureperpatty.Seasoneachpattywithsaltonbothsides.

3Inalargeskillet,heatjustenougholiveoiltocoverthebottomoverhighheat.Whentheoilslideseasilyacrossthepan,putthepattiesin.Avoidovercrowdingbycookinginbatches,ifneeded.Cookfor2½minuteswithoutpressingonormovingthepatties.Thenflipthepattiesoverandcookforanother2½minutesontheotherside.

VariationsHere are threemore flavor combinations to take for a spin in your turkeyburgers.Theingredientsareforstep1,andsteps2and3arethesameasthemainrecipe.Combineallingredientswiththeturkeyandpickuptherecipeaboveatstep2.

TUSCAN

Gratedzestof1lemon1teaspoonfinelychoppedfreshrosemary1teaspoonfinelychoppedfreshsage1teaspoongratedgarlic1teaspoonfineseasaltFreshlygroundblackpepper,totaste2tablespoonsfreshlygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese(optional)

INDIAN

1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshmint2teaspoonsfinelychoppedfreshcilantro1½teaspoonsgarammasala1teaspoonfineseasalt

MEXICAN

Gratedzestof1lime1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshcilantro1½teaspoonschilipowder1teaspoonfineseasalt

Rosemary-LemonMinuteSteak

ROSEMARY-LEMONMINUTESTEAKSERVES4Thesejuicysteaksareanoutstandingwaytoexperiencethegreat,clean,earthyflavorof100%grass-fedbeef.Sincetheyhavelessfatthanconventionalgrain-fedbeef,grass-fedsteakscallforacookingtechniquesimilartoFlavor-PoundedChicken.Forbestresults,givethemeatalightpoundingtotenderizeitandcreatemoresurfaceareatobeexposedtothepan.Thisallowsyoutocookthesteaksfastinarippinghotpan,sotheystayjuicyandtakeonmoreflavorthroughsearing.Besuretogivethepanenoughtimetogethotbeforeputtingthesteaksin—it’sessentialtoforminganicelycaramelizedcrust.

4(4-ounce)grass-fedsirloinsteaks,about½inchthickFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil4garliccloves,peeledandcracked2sprigsoffreshrosemaryJuiceof2smalllemons

1Poundeachsteaklightlywiththeheelofyourhandtothinthemout.Seasonthesteakswithsaltandpepperonbothsides.

2Ina10-inchskillet,combine2tablespoonsoftheoliveoiland2ofthegarliccloves,andturntheheattohigh.Whentheoilslideseasilyacrossthepan,add2ofthesteaksandcookfor1minute.Flipthemover,add1sprigofrosemarytothepanandcookfor1minutemore.Transferthesteaks,rosemary,andgarlictoaservingplattertorest.Addtheremaining1tablespoonoliveoiltothepanalongwiththeremaining2garliccloves.Cookthelast2steaksthesameway,addingtheremainingsprigofrosemaryafterthey’reflipped.Turnofftheheatandtransferthesteakstotheservingplattertorest,leavingthegarlicclovesandrosemaryinthepan.

3Whilethesteaksrest,addthelemonjuiceand¼cupwatertothepanwiththecookedgarlicandrosemary.Scrapethebottomwithaspatulatoloosenupanybrownedbits,andaddinanyjuicethesteakshavereleasedontotheplatewhileresting.Pourthepansauceoverthesteaksandserveimmediately.

LiverandOnions

LIVERANDONIONSSERVES4Sweetandrich,atenderpieceofcalf’slivercanbeanincomparablydeliciouscomfortfood,especiallywhenservedwithatangleofcaramelizedonions.That’sexactlywhatyougetwiththisdish,anditallhappensinonepaninlessthan30minutes.There’snodenyingthatliverhasaseriouslystrong,distinctiveflavor,butbycomplementingitwithsweet,slow-cookedonions,aromaticherbslikerosemaryandsage,andasplashofbalsamicvinegar,liverbecomesathingofpleasure.Ilikeslicingtheonionsintoringsforthis—itcallsforpeelingtheonionwithoutcuttingitinhalf,butit’stotallyworthitforuppingthevisualappealofthedish(liverneedsallthehelpitcanget).CreamyAmaranth“Polenta”withTuscanKaleistheperfectsidekickforthis.Ifyouwanttoaddthehealthiestmeatstoyourdiet,itpaystobeadventurous.Likeotherorganmeats,liverisuptherewithvegetablesandfruitasatreasuretroveofessentialvitaminsandminerals.It’sapotentsourceofiron,whichhelpsboostyourenergylevels,andit’shighinfolate—aBvitaminthat’skeyforcellgrowth.

2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil1poundgrass-fedcalf’sliver,rinsed,patteddry,andslicedinto6piecesFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper3onions,peeledandslicedinto¼-inchrings(leavetherootendintact,soitholdstheoniontogetherasyoucutitintorings)1tablespoonfreshrosemaryleaves1tablespoonroughlytornfreshsageleaves2tablespoonsbalsamicvinegar

1Inalargeskillet,heat1tablespoonoftheoliveoiloverhighheat.Seasontheliveronbothsideswithsaltandpepper.Whenthepanissmokinghot,addtheliverandsearfor1minuteoneachside.Leavingthepanontheburner,usetongstotransfertheliverpiecestoaplate.

2Assoonasthelivercomesout,addtheremaining1tablespoonoliveoilandtheonionstothepanandreducetheheattomedium-high.Cookwithoutstirringfor3minutes.Addtherosemary,sage,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Continuecooking,stirringevery3minutes,untiltheonionsaregoldenbrownandcaramelized,about17minutes.Iftheonionsstarttolookdryorbeginturningblackinplaces,reducetheheat.

3Assoonastheonionsarecaramelized,turntheheatuptohigh.Wait1minute,thenaddtheliverpiecesbacktothepanalongwiththebalsamicvinegar.Tosseverythingtogetherandturnofftheheat.Letthepansitonthestovefor5minutessothelivercontinuestocookintheresidualheat.Toserve,toptheliversliceswiththeonionsandpansauce.

PorkMedallionswithFennel–WhiteWineSauce

PORKMEDALLIONSWITHFENNEL–WHITEWINESAUCESERVES4I’lladmitIwasabitofatrash-talkerwhenitcametoporktenderloin.Ifounditbeyondboring,theboneless,skinlesschickenbreastoftheporkworld.AsIstartedaddingmoreleancutsofmeattomyroutine,Ifeltcompelledtocomeupwithawaytonudgeporktenderloinintotherealmofthedelicious,tender,juicymeatsIlove.Thissimplerecipenailedit.IgivethetenderloinaTuscantreatmentviaaquickpansaucethatincludesfennelandafinelychoppedmixtureofrosemary,sage,andgarlic.Tocompensateforthelackoffatintenderloin,Isliceitintomedallionstoincreasetheamountofporktouchingthepan(morebrowning=moreflavor),andcookithardandfast.Thelastthingyouwanttodoiscookthetenderloinwholeorinthicksteaks,whichhavefarmoreblandinteriormeatthantheseared,browned,caramelizedmeatyouwant.

1largegarlicclove,peeled1tablespoonroughlychoppedfreshrosemary1tablespoonroughlychoppedfreshsage3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil1poundporktenderloin,cutinto½-inch-thickmedallionsFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper½largefennelbulb,cutintosmalldice¼cupdrywhitewine¼cupChickenBroth

1Smashthegarlicclovewiththeflatsideofaknifeandroughlychopit.Combinetherosemary,sage,andgarliconthecuttingboardandfinelychopthemtogether.

2Ina12-inchskillet,heat2tablespoonsoftheoliveoiloverhighheat.Whiletheoilheatsup,seasonbothsidesoftheporkmedallionswithsaltandpepper.Whentheoilissmokinghot,addthemedallionsinonelayerandcook,untouched,for1½minutes.Flipeachmedallionandcookuntilthey’renicelybrowned,another1½minutes.Transfertheporktoaplatetorest.

3Addtheremaining1tablespoonoliveoiltothepan(stilloverhighheat),addthefennel,andseasonwithsalt.Cookfor1minute,usingawoodenspoonorrubberspatulatoscrapeupthebrownedbitsofporkonthebottomasitcooks.Addthegarlicandherbmixture,tosswiththefennel,andcookfor30seconds.Pourinthewhitewine,chickenbroth,andanyjuicestheporkhasreleasedontheplate.Boilfor1½minutes,untilthere’sonlyabout2tablespoonsofliquidleft.Spoonthepansauceovertheporkandserve.

LambStew

LAMBSTEWSERVES6Grass-fedlambisagreatalternativetobeef—it’stender,justasversatile,andcanbeveryleanwhentrimmedwell.ThesmelloflambsimmeringwithIndianspicesandhearty,aromaticvegetablesisintoxicating.Thesizeofthevegetablesforyourstewisamatterofpreference—big,chunkypiecesorasmalldice—eitherwayworks.PlainGreekyogurtisasurpriseingredienthere;itaddstangyrichnessandthickensthebroth.Itseemslikeaminoraddition,butIwouldn’tmakethiswithoutit.Feelfreetosubstitutevealstewmeatorbonelesschickenthighshere.

2poundsgrass-fedlambstewmeat,trimmedofexcessfatFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper3to4tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil2smallyellowonions,roughlychopped(about1½cups)3smallcarrots,roughlychopped(about1cup)2smallJapaneseorregularsweetpotatoes,cutinto1-inchcubes(about3cups)2teaspoonsgroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin½teaspoonturmeric2bayleaves3largegarliccloves,finelychopped1-inchpiecefreshginger,peeledandfinelychopped1(14.5-ounce)candicedtomatoes¼cupfull-fatplainGreekyogurt1cupfrozenpeas

1Letthelambcometoroomtemperatureabout20minutesbeforecooking.Seasonthelambwithsaltandpepper.

2Pour3tablespoonsoftheoliveoilinalargesaucepanorDutchovenandturntheheattohigh.Whenyouseewispsofsmokefromthepan,addhalfthelambandcookwithouttouchingitfor2minutes.Turneachpieceandcookfor2minutesmore.Transferthelambtoabowltorest.Repeatwiththeremaininglamb.

3Addtheonions,carrots,sweetpotatoes,andabigpinchofsalttothesamepan.(Thereshouldbealittlefatstillinthepan,butifitseemsdry,addanothertablespoonofoliveoil.)Reducetheheattomedium-highandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionsaretranslucentandbegintotakeonalittlebrowning,about5minutes.Addthespices,bayleaves,garlic,andgingerandcookforabout3minutes,stirringtocoatthevegetables.

4Returnthelambtothepanalongwiththetomatoesandjustenoughwatertocoverthelambandvegetables,about2cups.Increasetheheattohighandbringtoaboil.Reducetheheattoalowsimmer,thencoverwiththelidslightlyajar,andsimmer,stirringacoupleoftimes,untilthelambistenderandthestewhasthickened,about1hour.

5Stirintheyogurtandpeas,coverwiththelidslightlyajar,andcookfor15minutesmore.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

SNACKS

SNACKSCANBEADOUBLE-EDGEDsword.They’regoodforkeepingenergylevelsupandpreventingyoufromovereatingatyournextmeal,butthey’realsonotoriousforwreckinganotherwisegoodfoodday.Mosteasy-to-reach-forsnackfoodsareprocessed,junky,andfullofsimplecarbs—thekindoffoodthatleadsyoutonailameal’sworthofcaloriesinafewminuteswithoutrealizingit.Chips,crackers,cookies,muffins,evenso-called“healthy”snackslike

granolabarsandorganiccheesepuffs,areoftenengineeredbybigfoodcompaniestobeaddictive.Teamsofpeopleinlabcoatsarecreatingfoodthatpilesonsugar,salt,andfattoadegreeofmaximumflavortheycall“theblisspoint.”IusedtogetblissedoutonapackageofChipsAhoycookiesonmywayhomefromwork,polishingoffanentiresleeveasa“snack.”Becauseitwasfullofsugar,itdidnothingtostaveoffmyhunger,soIkeptoneating.Thosemomentsarerarernow,buttherearestilltimeswhenI’mdrawntothesaltysnackaisleatthebodegaacrossthestreetfromHearth.BeforeIknowit,IpurchaseandtearintoabagofcheeseDoritos,andonceIstarteatingthem,there’snostoppinguntilthebagisempty.Theyaredesignedtohavethatexacteffect:Ifprocessedfoodsareinthemix,snackingisalmostguaranteedtogetoutofhand.Thesedays,myfirstlineofdefenseagainstdestructivesnackinghabitsis

makingsmartfoodchoicesformymainmeals.IfindthatwhenIfilluponprotein,fiber,andgoodfats,Idon’thavetorelyonsnacksoften.Ialsodon’traidthefridgeeverytimeIfeeltheslightesthungerpang.Ithinkthiscontributestoalackofconsciousnessaboutwhattruehungerfeelslike,anditkick-startsconstantsnacking.Myothersnackstrategyispreparation.Onworknights,mydinnerisusually

early-birdstyle,about5p.m.BythetimeHearth’sdinnerserviceisoversixhourslater,I’mstarving.Idon’tdomealsatthathouranymore,butIstillneedsomethingtotaketheedgeoffmyhungerbeforegoingtobed.Thisiswhenitpaystobepreparedwithsnacksliketheoneshere.Beinghungrywithoutaqualitysnackonhandleadstocrazyimpulsechoiceslikevendingmachinegarbage,thepintoficecreaminthefridge,orthecookiesandham-and-potato-chipsandwichesIusedtofattenupon.Whilethingslikecarrotsticksandplainrawalmondsarequalitysnacks,these

don’tusuallycutitforme.Ineedsomethingwithbigflavorandacombinationofnutrientslikehealthyfats,protein,andfiberfromcomplexcarbohydratestoquiettherumbleofhunger.Asmallportionoflastnight’sdinnerleftoversisoneofmyfavoritesnacks—afewbitesofroastedbroccoliwithanuggetofroastchickenorseveralspoonfulsofquinoawithsomeavocadoslices.TraditionalsnackscomeintoplaymorewhenI’mrunningaroundandneed

somethingportable,orwhencrunchy,saltycravingshit.SinceIlikehavingastashonhand(andit’snoaddedefforttomakeextras),I’vescaledallthesnackrecipestocupsandquarts.Thenuts,seeds,andpopcornsherearealsothesort

ofsharablesnacksIputoutaslittlenibbleswhenwehavefriendsover.Whilemysnackshaven’tbeentestedfortheirblisspoint,Icantellyouthebowlsarealwaysemptiedandeveryoneseemsprettydamnhappy.

SpicedPumpkinSeeds

SPICEDPUMPKINSEEDSMAKES2CUPSIntheworldofportableprotein-filledsnacks,nutsgetalltheattention,butpumpkinseedsareanequallysmartchoice.IusehulledpumpkinseedsthatIbuyinbulkatthegrocerystore,butyoucansubstituteseedsfromafreshpumpkin—thewhiteshellisperfectlyedible.Aquartercupofthesewilldoyourightwhenyouneedaspicy-sweetandcrunchysnack.Asagarnish,tossthemonsalads,soups,yogurt,oroatmeal.Pumpkinseedshaveahealthydoseofomega-3sandtheimmunesystemsupporterzinc.They’realsotheonlyseedthatisalkaline-forming.

2cupsrawhulledpumpkinseeds1teaspoonmaplesyrup½teaspoonfineseasalt½teaspoongroundginger½teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoongroundcloves¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg

1Preheattheovento325°F.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.

2Inalargebowl,tosstogethertheseeds,maplesyrup,salt,ginger,cinnamon,cloves,andnutmeguntiltheyareevenlycoated.Spreadtheseedsinasinglelayeronthelinedbakingsheet.

3Bake,stirringevery10minutes,untiltheseedspuffupandarelightlybrowned,about25minutes.Letthemcoolbeforestoringinanairtightcontainer.

EverythingGoodGranola

EVERYTHINGGOODGRANOLAMAKESABOUT8CUPSMostcommerciallymadegranolasaresugarbombsfullofcornsyrup,highlyrefinedoils,andquestionablefillers—farfromthevirtuousfoodthatthepackageleadsustothinkitis.Makingyourownissimpleandmoreaffordable,andallowsyoutocontrolthetypeandamountofsweetenerandoil.Youalsohavethefreedomtothrowinwhatevernuts,fruits,andseedsyoulike.Inthisversion,Igowitheverythingbutthekitchensink.Thecombinationofthreeseedswithcoconutflakesandcashewsmakeitsuper-crunchy.Iknowgranolasgenerallyliveamongthebreakfastfoodsincookbooks,butit’smoreofasnackforme.I’llhaveacoupleofhandfulstotidemeoverbetweenmeals,dropsomeintoyogurt,orpackitupfortraveling.Youcansubstituteregularhoney,butit’sworthlookingforchestnuthoney.Ithasamildlynutty,almostsavory,tastethatgivesthegranolaacomplex,darksweetness.

⅓cupvirgincoconutoil1teaspoongroundcinnamon1teaspoongroundginger2tablespoonsunsulfuredblackstrapmolasses¼cupmaplesyrup2tablespoonschestnuthoney4cupsold-fashionedrolledoats¼cupchiaseeds½cuprawhulledpumpkinseeds½cuprawhulledsunflowerseeds1cuprawcashews1cupunsweetenedcoconutflakesFineseasalt½cupdriedcranberries

1Preheattheovento275°F.Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.

2Inasmallsaucepan,combinethecoconutoil,2tablespoonswater,cinnamon,ginger,molasses,maplesyrup,andhoneyandwhiskovermedium-lowheatuntileverythingismeltedtogether,3to5minutes.

3Inalargebowl,combinetheoats,chiaseeds,pumpkinseeds,sunflowerseeds,cashews,coconutflakes,andacoupleofpinchesofsalt.Pourthewetingredientsovertheoatmixtureandstiruntilthoroughlycombined.

4Dividethegranolabetweenthebakingsheetsandspreadinathin,evenlayer.Bakefor30minutes,thenstirwithaspatula.Continuebakinguntiltheoatsaregoldenbrown,10to

15minuteslonger.Letthegranolacoolcompletelyonthebakingsheets;itwillhardenandbecomecrispyasitsits.Dividethedriedcranberriesbetweenthetwobatchesandtosstocombine.Storeinairtightcontainersatroomtemperature.(Thisalsofreezeslikeachamp.)

TROPICALGRANOLAMAKESABOUT9CUPSIusevirgincoconutoilingranolanotonlyforitsnutritionalbenefits,butforthewarm,nutty,andlightlysweetflavoritbrings.Thisgranolahastriplethecoconutaction—coconutoil,unsweetenedcoconutflakes,andcoconutpalmsugar—arich,unrefinedbrownsugarwithdeepcaramelflavor.Largechunksofdriedfruitlosetheirsoftnessafterbeingfrozenandthawed,soifyouplantofreezethisone,leaveoutthedriedpineappleandpapayaandtossthoseinoncethegranolaisthawedandyou’rereadytoeatit.

⅓cupvirgincoconutoil1teaspoongroundginger¼cuphoney¼cupcoconutpalmsugar4½cupsold-fashionedrolledoats½cuphulledsunflowerseeds1cupmacadamianuts,chopped1cupunsweetenedcoconutflakesFineseasalt½cupchoppeddriedpineapple½cupchoppeddriedpapaya½cupbananachips,chopped

1Preheattheovento275°F.Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.

2Inasmallsaucepan,combinethecoconutoil,2tablespoonswater,ginger,honey,andcoconutsugarandwhiskovermedium-lowheatuntileverythingismeltedandthoroughlycombined,3to5minutes.

3Inalargebowl,combinetheoats,sunflowerseeds,macadamianuts,coconutflakes,andacouplepinchesofsalt.Pourthewetingredientsovertheoatmixtureandtossuntileverythingiswellcoated.

4Dividethegranolabetweenthebakingsheetsandspreadinathin,evenlayer.Bakefor30minutes,thenstirwithaspatula.Continuebakinguntiltheoatsaregoldenbrown,10to15minuteslonger.Letthegranolacoolcompletelyonthebakingsheets.Dividethedriedpineapple,papaya,andbananachipsbetweenthetwobatchesandtosstocombine.Storeinairtightcontainersatroomtemperature.

CITRUS-SPIKEDHAZELNUTANDROSEMARYGRANOLAMAKESABOUT6CUPSGranoladoesn’thavetobeasidekickforyogurtormilk,andnoonesaidithastobesweet.IstartedplayingaroundwithsavorygranolaatHearthasawaytoaddtexturalcontrastandanextrapunchofflavortovegetabledishes.Ilovethisversionwithextravirginoliveoil,freshrosemary,chestnuthoney,hazelnuts,andcitrus—familiarfriendsinItaliancooking.There’sjustenoughsweetnessforittobeathomeinyogurtormilk,butrosemary’spinelikeflavorandthefull-bodiedrichnessofoliveoilearnthisgranolaitsplaceinsalads,pureedsoups,andanywhereelseyouwouldusecroutons.

⅓cupextravirginoliveoil1tablespoonchoppedfreshrosemary¼cupchestnuthoney2tablespoonsunsulfuredblackstrapmolasses4cupsold-fashionedrolledoats¼cuprawhulledsunflowerseeds¼cuprawhulledpumpkinseeds1cuphazelnuts,halvedGratedzestof1lemonGratedzestof1orangeFineseasalt¼cupchoppedpitteddates¼cupchoppeddriedfigs

1Preheattheovento275°F.Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.

2Inasmallpot,whisktogethertheoliveoil,2tablespoonswater,rosemary,honey,andmolasses.Cookoverlow-mediumheatuntilthehoneyandmolassesdissolveintotheoil,3to5minutes.

3Inalargebowl,combinetheoats,sunflowerseeds,pumpkinseeds,hazelnuts,lemonzest,orangezest,andacoupleofpinchesofsalt.Pourthewetingredientsovertheoatmixtureandtossuntileverythingiswellcoated.

4Dividethegranolabetweenthe2bakingsheetsandspreadinathin,evenlayer.Bakefor30minutes,thenstirwithaspatula.Continuebakinguntiltoastybrown,10to15minuteslonger.Letitcoolcompletelyonthepans.Dividethedatesandfigsbetweenthebatchesandtosstocombine.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.

CurryandLimeCashews

CURRYANDLIMECASHEWSMAKES2CUPSNutsareidealforthoselatenightswhenIneedanibbleafterwork.Thankstotheirproteinandhealthyfats,ittakesonlyasmallamounttomakemefeelsatisfied.It’salmosttooeasytogooverboardonnuts,butthesecashewshavesomuchflavorfromcurrypowderandfreshlimezestandlimejuicethatonehandfulreallydoesthetrick.Idon’tuseadditionaloilormeltedbutterbecausenutshavealotofoiloftheirown.Manyovensdon’tcookevenly,soit’simportanttoshakethenutsaroundafewtimeswhiletheyroast.Payspecialattentiontothenutsneartheedgesofthepansincethosetendtobrownmorequickly.

Gratedzestof1lime2tablespoonsfreshlimejuice4teaspoonscurrypowder1½teaspoonsfineseasalt2cupsrawcashews

1Preheattheovento300°F.

2Inalargebowl,combinethelimezest,limejuice,currypowder,andsalt.Addthecashewsandtosstocoat.

3Spreadthenutsinanevenlayeronabakingsheetandroast,stirringevery10minutes,untilthecashewsarelightlybrowned,about30minutes.Cooltoroomtemperature,thenstoreinanairtightcontainer.

OLDBAYMARCONAALMONDSMAKES2CUPSNothinggoodcomesofdrinkingonanemptystomach,sohaveahandfulofthesespicy,smokyalmondsduringcocktailhour,orputthemoutatyournextparty.MarconaalmondsareaSpanishvarietythat’srounderandfatterwithasoftertexturethanthemorecommonCaliforniaalmonds.Typically,they’repackagedafterthey’vebeenroastedinoliveoilandsalted.Ifyoucan’tfindthem,substituteblanchedalmonds.

1½teaspoonsOldBayseasoning½teaspoonSpanishsmokedpaprika½teaspoonfineseasaltJuiceof½lemon1teaspoonhoney2cupsMarconaalmonds

1Preheattheovento300°F.

2Inalargebowl,stirtogethertheOldBay,paprika,salt,lemonjuice,andhoney.Pourinthealmondsandtosstocoat.

3Spreadthenutsinanevenlayeronabakingsheetandroast,stirringevery10minutes,untilthealmondsaretoastedandfragrant,about30minutes.Cooltoroomtemperature,thenstoreinanairtightcontainer.

SLOW-ROASTEDMACADAMIANUTSMAKES2CUPSAfterJeremyFox,afriendandfantasticchefinCalifornia,cookedaguestdinneratHearth,Ifoundmyselfhoardingtheleftoverroastedmacadamianutsfromoneofhisdishes.Whenslowlycookedatalowtemperature,thenuts’butterytasteintensifies,theygetcrunchierandbecomesweeterandmorecaramelizedthananymacadamianutI’veeverhad.Ikeepajarofthesearoundatalltimesnow,andIoftenaddcacaopowderandabitoforangezestforbrightnessandahintofchocolatewithoutanysugar.

2cupsmacadamianuts1tablespoonunsweetenedrawcacaopowderGratedzestof1orangeFineseasalt

1Preheattheovento200°F.Spreadthemacadamianutsonabakingsheetandroastfor2hours,shakingthemoncehalfwaythroughcooking.

2Whilethenutsarestillwarm,pourthemintoalargebowlandtosswiththecacaopowder,orangezest,andacoupleofpinchesofsalt.

LEMONANDROSEMARYPOPCORNMAKESABOUT10CUPSLemonandrosemarymakemagicwhereverthey’retogether,andpopcornisnoexception.Driedrosemaryiseasiertogrindintopowder,butyoucansubstitutefreshifthat’swhatyouhave.Ifyou’rewithoutaspicegrinderormortarandpestle,pilethedriedherbs,garlicpowder,salt,andlemonzestonacuttingboardandfinelychopthemtogether.Movietheaterandmicrowaveversionsaside,popcorncanbeastellarsnack,especiallyforvolume-eaterslikemewhoappreciateabigbowloffood.Popcornishighinfiberandpolyphenols,atypeofantioxidant.

1tablespoondriedrosemary1teaspoondriedoregano1teaspoongarlicpowder1teaspoonfineseasaltGratedzestof1lemon4tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil½cuporganicpopcornkernelsFreshlygroundblackpepper

1Inaspicegrinderorusingamortarandpestle,grindtherosemary,oregano,garlicpowder,salt,andlemonzestintoapowder.

2Inalargehigh-sidedpotwithatight-fittinglid,heat2tablespoonsoftheoliveoiloverhighheat.Dropinacoupleofkernels.Whenthosepop,addtherestofthekernels,cover,andshakethepotsothekernelsgetcoatedinoil.Continueshakingbackandforthovertheburner,holdingthelidonuntilthepoppingslowsdown,3to4minutes.

3Pourthepopcornintoalargebowlandaddthelemon-herbpowder,afewgrindsofblackpepper,andtheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoil.Useyourhandstotossuntilalltheingredientsareevenlydistributed.

PecanPowerBalls

PECANPOWERBALLSMAKES18BALLSThepowerofthesetastybite-sizesnacksisinthefillingprotein,qualityfats,andfiberofthepecans,almonds,chiaseeds,andflaxseedspackedintoeachone.Ipopone,twoatmost,toholdmeoverforafewhours.Theycanalsocurbameansugarcraving—theperfectlyround,pecan-coatedballslookalotlikethechocolatetrufflesyoumightgetatanicerestaurant.There’sahintofpumpkinpieflavorhappeningtoo.Kidsareusuallymorethanhappytohelpmakeandeatthese.Useaspicegrinderorfoodprocessortomakegroundpecans.Thetextureshouldbecoarserthanflourandsimilartograinsofsand.

Lookforgroundflaxseed(akaflaxseedmeal)atyournaturalfoodsstoreorgrindwholeflaxseedsinaspicegrinder.Yourbodycan’tdigestthewholeseed,sogroundflaxseedisthebestwaytogettheseeds’fiberandomega-3benefits.

6tablespoonsgroundpecans,plus¼cupfinelychoppedpecans¼cupgroundflaxseed2tablespoonschiaseeds2tablespoonsmaplesyrup½teaspoonvanillaextract2tablespoonsalmondbutterFineseasalt

1Inabowl,combinethegroundpecans,groundflaxseed,chiaseeds,maplesyrup,vanilla,almondbutter,andalargepinchofsalt.Usingarubberspatula,thoroughlymixtogetherthewetanddryingredientssotheyformadough.Refrigeratefor15minutes,oruntilthedoughisfirmbutstillpliable.

2Spreadthechoppedpecansinashallowbowl.Scoopoutaheapingteaspoonofdoughand,withwethands,shapeitintoaball.Rollitinthechoppedpecansuntilfullycoated.Repeatwiththeremainingdough,makingsureyourhandsarewetasyouroll.Storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforuptoaweek.

CacioePepePopcorn

CACIOEPEPEPOPCORNMAKESABOUT10CUPSGrowingup,mysisterandIwerepopcornfiends.Wepoppeditfresh,douseditinmeltedbutter,andgrabbedhandfulafterhandfulwhileparkedinfrontoftheTV.InspiredbyoneofItaly’sgreatestpastas,cacioepepe,Imakeafresh-poppedbowlofhot,crunchypopcornlightlycoatedinsaltycheeseandthebiteoffreshlygroundblackpepper.Ifyou’resharingwithkids,youmaywanttoportionouttheirservingsbeforeaddingtheblackpepper.IdothisformydaughterStella,whoissensitivetoallthingsspicy.Thisiseasilydoubledforacrowdorhalvedforacoupleofpeople.Asiftheartificialflavorofstore-boughtmicrowavepopcornisn’tbadenough,nowthere’s“popcornlung”—atypeoflungcancerassociatedwithchronicexposuretoachemicalcompoundthataddsartificialbutterflavortomicrowavepopcorn.Heatfromthemicrowavestirsupthecompound,anditgetsintothesteamthatpeoplelovetoinhalewhenopeningthebag.Dothatenoughoveralongperiodoftimeandpopcornlungcouldbeyourfuture.

4tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil½cuporganicpopcornkernels½cupfreshlygratedPecorinoRomanocheeseFineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Inalargehigh-sidedpotwithatight-fittinglid,heat2tablespoonsoftheoliveoiloverhighheat.Dropinacoupleofkernels.Whenthosepop,addtherestofthekernels,cover,andshakethepotsothekernelsgetcoatedinoil.Continueshakingbackandforthovertheburneruntilthepoppingslowsdown,3to4minutes.

2Pourthehotpopcorn(itneedstobehotorthecheesewon’tstick)intoalargebowlandquicklyaddthePecorino,theremaining2tablespoonsoliveoil,apinchofsalt,andaheavyshowerofblackpepper.Useyourhandstotosseverythingtogether.Diginimmediately.

SWEETS

ASARECOVERINGSUGARJUNKIE,Iknoweatingsweetsisaslipperyslope.Myrelentlesstasteforsugarisaspowerfulasanycravingforcaffeineornicotineandhasledtosomeprettyhedonisticbehavior.Istartedmysugaraddictionearlyinlife,nabbingOreos,blueberryPop-Tarts,andanysortofEntenmann’sbakedgoodswhileatfriends’houses(mymomneverkeptthisstuffaround).PepperidgeFarmGenevacookieswereaparticularlygoodscore—tothisday,thosebuttery,chocolate-coveredcookiesaremykryptonite.AtHearth,Ifrequentlycavedbasedsolelyonthescentoffresh-bakedcakes,cookies,orbread,andwasalltoofondofthesmallbowlsoficecreamandsorbetconstantlyavailableinourpastrydepartment.Itwasalwaysnibbleshereandthere,soitneverfeltoutofcontrol(notcountingthelate-nightsleevesofChipsAhoy,whichIconsideredanoccasional“treat”).Yearsofthisfull-onsugarassault,pairedwithmyoverdosingonpastaand

bread,inevitablyledtocrazy-highbloodsugarandprediabetes.TheharshrealityofhavingtheseissuesisthatIhadtogototheextremeofquittingsugarcoldturkeyinordertoreverseit.Besidesthemindlessbitesoficecreamandcookies,thatincludedditchinghoney,maplesyrup,andevensomehigh-sugarfruits.Irealizedthenjusthowmuchsugardominatedmydiet.Itfounditswayintoeverything,itseemed.Nowthatmybloodsugarisincheck,sweetsarebackinmylife.Ifindit

unrealisticandunsustainabletomaintainabanonthemforever.Sweetsareafundamentalpartofholidays,celebrations,andmycareer.Idon’twanttomissoutonbakingpiesalongsidemymomandmyauntatThanksgivingorsharinginmydaughters’birthdaycakes.Itseemslikeeveryimportantlifeeventcomeswithalittlebitofcelebratorysugar.Sentimentalattachmentsaside,extremefoodrestrictionsarenotoriousfor

backfiring.Everyoneneedsalittleindulgence—youjusthavetobesmartaboutit.I’vewiseduptothewaysofthoughtfulsplurging,anditstartswiththeobvious:limitingprocessedsweetsthatpileonwhiteflour,highfructosecornsyrup,whitesugar,agavesyrup,andothertypesofhighlyrefinedsugarswhosebody-punishingeffectsgofarbeyondweightgain.Somethingremarkablehappenswhenyoueaseuponthesesugars.It’slikehittingresetonyourtastebuds.Youdevelopasensitivitytosweetnessandbegintonoticethenaturalsugarsinfruitandvegetablesthatneverresonatedonyourpalatebeforebecauseitwasdulledbyexcessiveamountsofrefinedsweeteners.Asaresult,IenjoydessertsalotmorewhenIcontrolthequantityandquality

ofsugar(andflour,eggs,andmilk)inthem.Ilovethedeeper,nuancedsweetnessofnaturalsugarslikehoney,maplesyrup,andcoconutpalmsugar.Coconutpalmsugarisgreatbecauseit’sgranulatedandcanbeusedcupforcupinplaceofwhitesugar.Itgivesanotherdimensionofflavortomanyofthedessertshere,includingCoconutCacaoCardamomPannaCottaandSweetBrownRicePudding.Inplaceofall-purposewhiteflour,Ioftenusewhole-grain

floursandnutmeals,likethehazelnutmealthatdialsuptheflavorinHazelnutBrowniesandoatflour,whichaddsmorechewytexturetoOatmealandDarkChocolateCookies.Ifyoudon’thaveoatflourandyou’reindesperateneedofcookies(hey,ithappens),justbuzzuprolledoatsinablenderuntiltheyreachacoarseflourconsistency.Workslikeacharm.Noneoftheseupgradeswillmakedessertahealthyfoodessentialtoeveryday

life—that’snotthepointofdessert,anyway—buttheydomakesweetindulgenceslesstaxingonyourbody.Mostimportant,thedessertsheretasteaslustyanddecadentandevenmoregratifyingthantheirnutrient-bankruptcounterpartsfromstore-boughtdoughlogsorsacksofwhiteflourandsugar.Thesesweetsareanunapologeticpleasure.

SPICEDAPPLE,PEAR,ANDCRANBERRYCRUMBLESERVES6Forafoolproofdessert,looknofurtherthancrumbles.They’resimple,forgiving,adaptabletomostfruits,andgenerallyadessertthateveryoneisexcitedtodiginto.Mostpeoplewanttheservingthathasamonstrousmoundoftopping,soImakesurenoonegetsshorted—thiscrumbleisblanketedcornertocornerwithacrispy,honey-sweetenedoattopping.Thisfallcrumbleisasortoflazyman’sapplepie.IpreferHoneycrisporGalaapplesandBoscpearsforthisbecausetheysoftenbutstillholdtheirshape.Leavetheskinontheapplesandpears—that’swhereasurprisingamountoftheirfiberandnutrientsare.

FILLING

2cupscored,choppedHoneycrisporGalaapples(about2large)2cupscored,choppedripeBoscpears(about2large)1cupdriedcranberriesGratedzestof1lemon1teaspoonfreshlemonjuice2tablespoonscoconutpalmsugar

TOPPING

½cupchoppedhazelnuts1½cupsold-fashionedrolledoats¼cupvirgincoconutoil¼cuphoney⅓cupoatflour½teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg¼teaspoongroundcloves¼teaspoongroundcardamom½teaspoongroundgingerPinchoffineseasalt

1Preheattheovento350°F.

2Forthefilling:Inalargebowl,tosstogethertheapples,pears,driedcranberries,lemonzest,lemonjuice,andcoconutsugar.Spreadthefruitinan8×11-inchbakingdish.

3Forthetopping:Inthesamelargebowl,stirtogetherallthetoppingingredientsto

combine.Evenlydistributetheoattoppingoverthefruit.

4Bakeuntiltheoatsarelightlytoastedandthefruitisbubblingaroundtheedges,about35minutes.Letitsitfor10minutesbeforeservingtoallowthetoppingtogetcrispier.

YOURBODYONSUGARRememberwhentheonlydownsideofeatingtoomuchsugarwasgettingcavities?Itseemslaughablenowthatsugarhasbeenexposedasthereasonthatmanypeople’shealthisinthetoilet.Afterrealizingthatthelow-fatcrazeonlymadepeoplefatter,studiesfocusedmoreonsimplecarbohydrates,especiallysugar(whichispumpedintomanylow-fatproductstomasktheircardboardtaste).Theresults:Eatingtoomuchsugarmakesusfat,destroysourlivers,andopensthedoorstotype2diabetesandheartdisease.Ifyou’retemptedtopretendit’snottrue,I’mwithyou.Butsugar’snegativeeffectsarenojoke,andyouhavetoconsiderhowmuchplaysugarisgettinginyourdietifyouexpecttofitintoyourpantsandhaveabodythatactuallyworksin10years.

Youmaybethinkingyou’rehomefreebecauseyoudon’teatcandyandcookies,butifyouslambacksodas,bottledflavoredteas,orfruitjuicewithanyregularity,you’rebasicallymainliningsugar.One12-ouncesodahasawhopping10teaspoonsofsugar.Sugarisalsohiddeninfastfoodandpracticallyeveryprocessedfoodontheshelves—ketchup,jarsoftomatosauce,peanutbutter,evensupposedhealthyproductslikeyogurt,instantoatmeal,andenergybars.Andit’snotjustsugar.Allrefinedcarbs—includingwhitebread,manycrackersandpastries—actlikesugarinthebody,sothosecounttoo.Thefoodindustryreliesonitsoheavilythattheonlywaytoavoidovereatingsugaristocutoutnearlyallprocessedfoodsanddrinks.

MostofthesugarIatewasintheformofbread,cookies,pasta,andhamburgerbuns—allhighontheglycemicindexandimpossibleformetopassup.Iwouldjokethattheywerelikecrack…whichsciencenowsupportsasalegitfact.Sugarisaddictive,lightingupthesamefeel-goodareasofthebrainascocaineandmorphine.It’swhyjustonecookieoronebiteoficecreamdidn’tsatisfyme—ittookincreasinglylargerhitsformetogetthesugarrush.Theproblemisthatourbodiesaren’tbuilttohandlethemountainsofsugarwe’repouringintothem.Compoundingthisisthefactthatsugarfuelsyourappetitelikegasolinefuelsafire:Themoresugaryoueat,themoreyoucrave.Thegoodnewsisthattheoppositeisalsotrue:Thelesssugaryoueat,themoresensitiveyoubecometoit,andthelessyouneed.

Whenyoueatapieceofchocolatecake,thecarbsarebrokendownintoglucose—thesugaryourbodyusesforenergy—andthensentintoyourbloodstream.Yourpancreasrespondsbyreleasinginsulin,whichlowersbloodsugarlevelsbysendingtheglucosetocellsforenergyandthentoyourliver.Normally,theamountofinsulinreleasedisjustenoughtobringthingsbacktoanevenkeel.Butifyou’reputtingcake,soda,oranyrefinedcarbinyourfaceregularly,anincreasingamountofinsulinhastobereleasedtodealwithallthatsugar.Thisuptickininsulintriggershunger,makingyouheadbackformorecake.Ifyoudothisoften,yourbodycan’tpossiblyuseasmuchenergy(glucose)asyou’reputtingin,andinsulinmaydirectittobestoredasfat.

Fructose,thesugarinfruit,actsalittledifferentlythanglucose.Itisabosrbedbyyourliver,sofructosedoesn’tspikebloodsugarlevelsandisrelativelylowontheglycemicindex.Soundsliketheholygrailofsugar,right?Itis,ifyou’regettingfructoseonlyfromwholefruit,whereitexistsinrelativelysmallamountsandispackagedwithfiber.Butifyou’reeatinghighlyprocessedpackagedfoods,you’relikelygettingatonofhighfructose

cornsyruporthebullshit“healthy”sweetener,agavesyrup,whichhasafreakishamountoffructose(about97percent).Theseconcentratedformsoffructoseputaheavyloadonyourliver,whichcanstoreonlysomuchsugar.Whenyourliverisfull,thesugargetsconvertedtofat.Soeatingsugar,especiallyfructose,toooftenandinlargeamountsultimatelyresultsinweightgainandseriouswearandtearonyourliverthatcanleadtofattyliverdisease.

Toyourbody,itdoesn’tmatterifit’saPop-Tartorafancybaguette,whitesugarorhoney:Allformsofsugarcanleadtosomenastyoutcomesifyoudowntoomuch.Thatbeingsaid,somesourcesofsugararebetterthanothers.(Seemyguidetosweetenersandhowoftentoindulgeinthem.)Fruitandnaturallyoccurringsweetenersarethebestoptions.High-qualitymaplesyruptappedoutofatreeandhoneyfromlocalbeesarealotlessprocessedthangranulatedsugarandhighfructosecornsyrup(whichclearlyhadaverylongroadfromastalkofcornorsugarcane).Readthelabelsofthenaturalsweetenersyoubuytomakesurethey’reunadulteratedversions—somemayhaveaddedrefinedsugars.AnddespitethefactthatsugarsubstituteslikeSplenda,NutraSweet,andSweet’NLowdon’traisebloodsugarlevels,Idon’tusethem.They’reheavilyprocessedandstillrelativelynewtothefoodworld,sotheirlong-termhealthconsequencesareunknown.Also,mostarehundredsoftimessweeterthantablesugar,sotheykeepyourpalateaccustomedtooverlysweetfoods.

Aftermydoctor-prescribedhiatusfromsugar,IfoundthatIdidn’tcraveitasmuch.AndwhenIstartedindulginginitagain,Irealizedthatitdidn’ttakemuchtosatisfymyurge.WhenItookmykidstothechocolateshopL.A.Burdickforhotchocolateoneafternoonafewyearsago,Iwascompletelysatisfiedwitha2-ounceDixiecupportion.Theyhaveinsanelygood,high-qualityhotchocolate,butIstillcouldn’tbelievethattinyportionwasenoughforme.Itwassuchavictory.

SUGAR:THEGOOD,THEOKAY,ANDTHEDON’TGOTHERE

SWEETENER WHATISIT? NUTRITIONNOTESMYGO-TOS

Honey(preferablyraw)

Producedbyhoneybeesfromthenectarofvariousflowers

Darkhoneyslikebuckwheatandchestnuthavemoreantioxidants.

Maplesyrup Boiled-downmapletreesap

Agoodsourceofantioxidantsandminerals,especiallyzincandmanganese.IuseGradeA,whichislighterandeasiestto

find.

Granulatedcoconutpalmsugar

Boiled-downnectarofcoconutpalm

trees

Hasadeepcaramelflavor,canbeusedcupforcupinplaceofgranulatedorbrownsugar.It’slowerontheglycemicindex

thancanesugar.

Molasses

Athick,darksyrupmadebyprocessingsugarcaneorsugarbeetsintotable

sugar

Unsulfuredvarietiesarebest.Blackstrapmolassesisthethickest,mostnutritiousvarietybecauseofitshighmineral

content.

USESPARINGLYOrganiccanesugar(akaevaporatedcane

juice)

Agoldengranulatedsugarextractedfrom

sugarcaneSlightlylessrefinedthanregularsugar.

OrganicbrownsugarWhitesugarwithabitofmolassesadded

toit

Organicguaranteesit’sfrompesticide-freesugarcane.

SteviaSugarsubstituteextractedfromthesteviaplant

Hasnoeffectonbloodsugarlevels,butit’s300timessweeterthanregulartablesugar.Somebrandshaveaddedsugars,so

readthelabels.AVOID

Agavesyrup Madefromthejuiceofblueagavecactus

Highlyprocessedandhasanincrediblyhighconcentrationoffructose.

Highfructosecornsyrup

Cornsyrupprocessedwithchemicalstoconvertsomeofitsglucosetofructose

Sweeterandcheaperthansugar,amanufacturers’choiceforprocessedfoods.Ithasmorefructosethanregularsugarand

triggersastrongerinsulinresponse.Aspartame

(NutraSweet,Equal),sucralose(Splenda),

andsaccharin(Sweet’NLow)

Man-madeartificialsweeteners

Usedindietsodasandlow-fatproductsbecausetheydon’traisebloodsugarlevels.They’reasfarasyoucangetfromwhole,

realfood.

OLIVEOILCAKESERVES10Whenitcomestoaddingrichflavortocakes,butterisn’ttheonlygameintown.Oliveoilmakesanincrediblymoist,softcakethat’straditionallybrightenedupwithfreshcitruszest.Theflavoroftheoliveoilyouusewillreallyshinethrough,somakesureit’sagoodonethathasthesoft,fruityqualitiesthataretypicalinSouthernItaly,ratherthanthepepperyTuscanoilsthatIloveforjustabouteverythingelse.ThinkofitastheItalianversionofapoundcake,asgoodonitsownasitistoppedwithseasonalfruit.

1¼cupsextravirginoliveoil,plusmoreforthepan1¼cupswholewheatflour,plusmoreforthepan1cupcoconutpalmsugar3largeeggs1cuphoney1teaspoonvanillaextractGratedzestof1lemonGratedzestof1orange1cupalmondflour½teaspoonbakingsoda½teaspoonbakingpowderPinchoffineseasalt

1Preheattheovento325°F.Lightlycoatastandard-sizeBundtpanwitholiveoilandflour.Tapouttheexcess.

2Inalargebowl,beattogetherthecoconutsugar,eggs,andhoney.Addtheoliveoil,vanilla,lemonzest,andorangezest,andmixwell.

3Inaseparatebowl,whisktogetherthewholewheatflour,almondflour,bakingsoda,bakingpowder,andsalt.Addthedryingredientstothewetmixtureandwhiskuntiljustcombined.

4Pourthebatterintothepanandbakeuntiltheedgesarebrownedandpullingawayfromthesides,about1hour.Letthecakecoolinthepanfor15minutesbeforeinvertingitontoaservingplate.

MixedBerryCrumble

MIXEDBERRYCRUMBLESERVES6Withallthenaturalsweetnessofsummerberries,youdon’tneedmuchadditionalsugartomakethisaseriouslydeliciousdessert.Expectagoodamountofberryjuicetoaccumulateinthebottomofthepan.Ispoonsomeofthatsaucysweetnessalongwitheachserving.

FILLING

½pintstrawberries,hulledandquartered(about2cups)½pintblackberries(about1½cups)1pintblueberries(about2½cups)Gratedzestof1lemon1teaspoonfreshlemonjuice2tablespoonscoconutpalmsugar

TOPPING

½cupchoppedwalnuts1½cupsold-fashionedrolledoats¼cupvirgincoconutoil¼cuphoney⅓cupoatflour½teaspoongroundcinnamonPinchoffineseasalt

1Preheattheovento350°F.

2Forthefilling:Inalargebowl,tosstheberrieswiththelemonzest,lemonjuice,andcoconutsugar.Spreadtheberrymixtureinan8×11-inchbakingdish.

3Forthetopping:Inthesamelargebowl,stirtogetherallthetoppingingredientstocombine.Evenlydistributetheoattoppingovertheberries.

4Bakeuntiltheoatsarelightlytoastedandthefruitisbubblingaroundtheedges,about35minutes.Letitsitfor10minutesbeforeserving,sotheberriescoolandthetoppinggetscrispier.

HAZELNUTBROWNIESMAKES16BROWNIESBrowniesfromaboxedmixarehighonmylistofnostalgicdesserts,buttheirjarringlysweet,artificialtastedoesn’tdoitformeanymore.Straddlingthelinebetweencakelikeandfudgy,thesebrownieshaveadeep,darkrichnessandalight,moistcrumb(ararityamonggluten-freedesserts).Allthebestbrownieshavenuts,soIusechoppednutsandhazelnutmealhere.Nutmeals—wholenutsgroundintoacoarseflour—addtexture,protein,andfiberandhaveamoistqualitythatworksverywellinbakedgoods.IuseBob’sRedMillhazelnutmeal,butyoucanalsogrindhazelnutsinagoodfoodprocessor.Almondmealisagoodsubstitute.Asanalternativetothemicrowave,youcanmeltthechocolateandcoconutoiltogetherinametalbowlsetoverapotofsimmeringwater.Justmakesurethebottomofthebowldoesn’ttouchthewater.

½cupvirgincoconutoil,plusmoreforthepan5ouncesdarkchocolate(70%cacao),chopped½cuplightbrownsugar½cupcoconutpalmsugar½cuphazelnutmeal¼cupoatflour¼teaspoonbakingsodaFineseasalt2extra-largeeggs1tablespoonpurevanillaextract½cupchoppedtoastedhazelnuts¼cupunsweetenedcoconutflakes,chopped

1Preheattheovento350°F.Lightlygreasean8×8-inchbakingpanwithcoconutoil.

2Meltthechocolateandcoconutoiltogetherinthemicrowavein30-secondintervals,stirringwitharubberspatulabetweeneachinterval,untilthechocolateiscompletelymeltedandsmooth.

3Inalargebowl,mixtogetherthelightbrownsugar,coconutsugar,hazelnutmeal,oatflour,bakingsoda,andapinchofsalt.

4Inaseparatebowl,beattheeggswiththevanilla.Addtheeggmixturetothebowlofdryingredientsandstiruntilthebatterissmooth(thereisnogluten,sooverworkingthebatterisnotaconcern).Pourthechocolate-coconutoilmixtureintothebatterandstiruntileverythingisthoroughlycombined.Foldinthetoastedhazelnutsandcoconutflakessothey’reevenlydistributedthroughoutthebatter.

5Pourthebatterintothepanandbakeuntiltheedgesarefirmandatoothpickinsertedin

thecentercomesoutwithafewmoistcrumbs,about35minutes.Letthebrowniescoolcompletelyinthepanbeforecutting.

PEANUTBUTTERCACAONIBCOOKIESMAKESABOUT2DOZENCOOKIESCacaonibsarecoarselygroundcacaobeans,andItosstheminanywhereIwantcrunchandthedeep,bittersweetflavorofreallydarkchocolate—yogurt,fruit,granolas,andgoodol’softandchewypeanutbuttercookies.They’refullofflavonoids,whichhaveantioxidantpowers,andtheymakeagreatwaytogetachocolatefixwithoutaddedsugar.

½cupcreamypeanutbutter½cuphoney½cupcoconutpalmsugar½cupvirgincoconutoil1largeegg1teaspoonpurevanillaextract1cupwholewheatflour3tablespoonsgroundflaxseed½teaspoonbakingsoda½teaspoonbakingpowderPinchoffineseasalt¼cupcacaonibs

1Preheattheovento350°F.Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.

2Inabowl,combinethepeanutbutter,honey,sugar,andcoconutoilusingarubberspatula.Addtheeggandvanillaandmixuntilsmooth.

3Inaseparatelargebowl,whisktogethertheflour,groundflaxseed,bakingsoda,bakingpowder,andsalt.Addtheflourmixturetothebowlofwetingredientsandmixuntiljustcombined.Stirinthecacaonibs.

4Scoopouttablespoonsofdoughandrolleachoneintoaball(wethandsmakesthiseasier).Arrangethemonthebakingsheetsabout2inchesapart.Dipaforkinwater,shakeofftheexcess,andlightlypressdownonthecenterofeachdoughballwiththebackofthefork.Repeatata90-degreeangletocreateagridontopofthedough.

5Bakeuntilthecookiesaregoldenbrownontheedges,about12minutes.Transfertoaracktocool.

OatmealandDarkChocolateCookies

OATMEALANDDARKCHOCOLATECOOKIESMAKES2DOZENCOOKIESThesestunnersareexceptionallychewyandcrammedwithpocketsofmelteddarkchocolate.Speltandoatfloursgivethecookiescharacter,makingthemheartyandsatisfyingwithoutweighingthemdown.Thesearen’tdelicatecookies,soifyou’reinarushorburiedindirtydishes,mixeverythinginonebowl,ratherthanmixingthewetingredientsseparatelyfromthedryandthencombining.Thismaybeviolatingsomebakinglaws,butitturnsoutfineforme.Speltflourhasmoreproteinandfiberthanwholewheatflourandcanbesubstitutedcupforcup.Ithasalowlevelofgluten,sosomepeoplefinditeasiertodigest.

1½cupsspeltflour1cupoatflour2cupsold-fashionedrolledoats1teaspoonbakingsodaPinchoffineseasalt1cupslicedalmonds1½cupsdarkchocolatechunks(70%cacao)2extra-largeeggs¾cupcoconutpalmsugar¼cupunsulfuredblackstrapmolasses1cupvirgincoconutoil1tablespoonpurevanillaextract

1Preheattheovento350°F.Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.

2Inalargebowl,stirtogetherthespeltflour,oatflour,rolledoats,bakingsoda,salt,almonds,anddarkchocolate.

3Inanotherbowl,whisktogethertheeggs,coconutsugar,molasses,coconutoil,andvanilla.Addthewetmixturetothebowlofdryingredientsandstiruntiljustcombined.

4Portionthedoughintoheapingtablespoon-sizeballsandarrangethemonthelinedbakingsheets,about2inchesapart.Bakeuntiltheedgesarebeginningtobrown,about15minutes.Letthemcoolfor2minutes,thentransferthecookiestoaracktocoolforafewmoreminutesbeforegrabbyhandsgettothem.

SWEETBROWNRICEPUDDINGSERVES6TO8Ifyou’relookingforasoothing,creamybowlofcomfort—themac’n’cheeseofdesserts—thisisit.I’malwaysamazedattheamountofcreamystarchthatcomesoutofsweetbrownrice;itlendsitselfperfectlytoricepudding.Coconutandhempmilksaddrichflavorandnext-levelcreaminess,whilecinnamonandcardamomgivethepuddingalittleexoticwarmth.It’saltogetheraddictive.Tohelpgivethepuddingbody,Iprefermoderatelycreamyhempmilktothethinconsistencyofalmondandricemilks.

1½cupssweetbrownrice1cinnamonstick1(13.5-ounce)canfull-fatunsweetenedcoconutmilk1½cupshempmilkFinelygratedzestof1orange½teaspoongroundginger¼teaspoongroundcardamom¼teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg½cupcoconutpalmsugarFineseasalt1vanillabean

1Inalargepot,combinetherice,cinnamonstick,and3cupswaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheat,cover,andsimmerfor30minutes.Takeitofftheheatandletitsitcovered.

2Inaseparatepotovermediumheat,combinethecoconutmilk,hempmilk,orangezest,ginger,cardamom,cinnamon,nutmeg,coconutsugar,andalargepinchofsaltandwhisktogether.Splitthevanillabeaninhalflengthwiseandscrapetheseedsoutandaddthemtothepotalongwiththebeanpod.Bringtoaboilslowlyovermedium-highheat.Assoonasitcomestoalowboil,reducetheheattomedium-lowandsimmerfor10minutes.Removethevanillabeanpod.

3Removethecinnamonstickfromthepotofcookedriceandaddthericetothespicedmilk.Increasetheheattomediumandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthepuddinghasthickened,butstillhasabitofliquid,about10minutes.

COCONUTCACAOCARDAMOMPANNACOTTASERVES4Iwavethepannacottaflaghigh,andnotjustbecauseit’sanincrediblysimple,classicItaliandessert.Itsbiggestassetisasilkysmoothtexturethatfeelsremarkablyluxuriousandlight.Pannacottaisalsoachameleonthatcantakeontheflavorofanyseasonalfruit,sweetspices,andwholemilkyoulike.Iusecoconutmilkinsteadofthetraditionalheavycream—it’severybitasthickandrich.

1packet(2¼teaspoons)unflavoredpowderedgelatin1(13.5-ounce)canwholeunsweetenedcoconutmilk1teaspoongroundcardamom3tablespoonsunsweetenedrawcacaopowder3tablespoonscoconutpalmsugarFineseasalt

1Inasmallbowl,sprinklethegelatinover3tablespoonscoldwaterandletitsitfor5to10minutestodissolve.

2Ina2-quartsaucepan,combinethecoconutmilk,cardamom,cacaopowder,coconutsugar,andapinchofsalt.Cookoverlowheatuntilthesugarisdissolved,about5minutes.Turnofftheheat,addthegelatinmixture,andwhiskuntilit’scompletelydissolved.Pourthroughafine-meshsieveintoalargebowloravesselwithaspout.

3Dividethemixtureevenlyamong4(4-ounce)ramekins,coverwithplasticwrap,andtransfertotherefrigeratortosetforatleast2hoursanduptoovernight.

BlueberryPie

BLUEBERRYPIESERVES8I’mdrawntosimple,rustic,shareablesweets—thekindIcanmakewithmydaughtersandsetinthecenterofthetablewithastackofplatesandforks.Thepinnacleforme?Pie.WhenmyfamilydescendsonMartha’sVineyardforsummervacation,it’sapie-making,pie-eatingfrenzy.Rhubarb,strawberry,and,myfavorite,blueberrypie.Thepointhereistohighlighttheblueberries—nofrills,nounnecessarysteps,andnoaddedsugarneeded.Sinceitrequiresveryfewingredients,thispiereliesheavilyonfreshsummerblueberriesandgood-qualitygrass-fedbutter.Forme,thereisnocrustexceptanall-buttercrust.I’mwillingtoswitchuptheflourthough,andI’vefoundwholewheatpastryflourproducesanequallyflaky,mild,andbutterycrustaswhiteflour.Coldingredientsarekeytotender,flakycrust.Makesureyourbutteriswellchilledandyourwaterisice-cold.Also,ithelpstochillyourpastrycutterandmetalbowlinthefreezerandpullthemoutonlywhenyou’rereadytomakethedough.

CRUST

14tablespoons(1¾sticks)unsaltedgrass-fedbutter2cupswholewheatpastryflour,plusmoreforrollingout½teaspoonfineseasalt

FILLING

6cupsblueberries(about3pints)Finelygratedzestof1lemon1tablespoonfreshlemonjuice3tablespoonscornstarchPinchoffineseasalt

1Forthecrust:Cutthebutterintopats,laythemonaplate,andfreezethemfor15minutes.

2Inalargemetalbowl,whisktheflourandsalttogether.Scatterthefrozenpatsofbutterintheflour.Usingapastrycutterorafork,workthebutterintotheflouruntilitresemblescoarsecrumbswithpea-sizepelletsofbuttervisiblethroughout.Drizzlein½cupverycoldwater.Useyourhandstogatherthedoughtogether,buthandlingitaslittleasisneededtogetitintoonemound.Assoonasitcomestogether(whenyoucanpinchapieceofitanditholdsitsshape),dumpoutthedoughontoacleanworksurfaceandshapeitintoafatcylinder,likeacan.

3Separateone-thirdofthedough,soyouhave2mounds.Shapeeachmoundintoaflattenedrounddisk,wrapthemtightlyinplasticwrap,andrefrigerateforatleast1hourandupto3days.Thedoughcanalsobefrozenforupto1month.

4Preheattheovento425°F.Positionarackinthecenteroftheovenandplaceafoil-lined

bakingsheetonalowerracktocatchanyblueberryjuiceoverflowfromthepie.

5Removethelargerdiskofdoughfromtherefrigerator.Onawell-flouredsurface,flattenthedoughandsprinkleabitofflouroverthetopandonarollingpin.Rollthedoughoutintoaroundroughly12inchesindiameter.Pictureaclockandrollfromthecenterouttowardeverynumber,allthewayaround.Eachtimethedoughexpandsaboutanincharound,sprinkleabitmoreflour,flipthedoughandrollouttheotherside.Useapastryscraperaroundtheedgestomakesurethedoughisn’tsticking.(It’sokayiftheedgescrack—theycanbepinchedtogether.)Foldthedoughinhalf,theninhalfagain.Putitinthecenterofa9-inchglasspieplate,unfolditsoit’scentered,andgentlypressitintotheedges.Thedoughshouldhangaboutaninchovertherimofthepan.

6Forthefilling:Inalargebowl,combinetheblueberries,lemonzest,lemonjuice,cornstarch,andsaltandtosstocoat.Piletheblueberriesintothepiecrust(theyshouldalmostoverflow).

7Removetheremainingdiskofdoughfromtherefrigeratorandrollitoutintoaroundabout10inchesindiameterusingthesamemethodasbefore.Folditinhalf,theninhalfagain,layitoverthetopoftheblueberrymoundandunfoldit.Workingyourwayaroundtheedgeofthepie,pressthetopandbottomcruststogetherandfoldthemunder.Crimptheedgeswithyourfingerstoseal.Usingaparingknife,cut4(3-inch)slitsinthetopcrustand4shorterslitsinbetweenthose,sosteamcanescape.

8Putthepieonthecenterrackintheovenandbakefor20minutes.Reducetheheatto350°Fandbakeuntilthecrustisgoldenbrownandtheblueberriesarebubbling,about40minuteslonger.Letitcoolonawirerackforatleast1hour.Thepiewillthickenthelongeritcools.

Peoplehavesuchanxietyaboutmakingpie.Relax.Makingdoughcanactuallybequitezenlike,especiallywhendoingitbyhand.Theonlywaytolearnwhatgoodpiedoughshouldlookandfeellikeisthroughthetactilesensationofhand-formingit.Withafoodprocessor,it’stooeasytooverworkthedoughandovermixthebutter—twoactionsthatkillthepotentialforgoodcrust.

READINGANDRESOURCESBOOKSTheGreatCholesterolMythbyJonnyBowdenandStephenSinatra

TheNewGlucoseRevolutionbyDr.JennieBrand-Miller,Dr.ThomasM.S.Wolever,KayeFoster-Powell,andDr.StephenColagiuri

TheInflammationSyndromebyJackChallem

NourishingTraditionsbySallyFallonandMaryEnig

The4-HourBodybyTimothyFerriss

TheBloodSugarSolutionbyDr.MarkHyman

CleanbyDr.AlejandroJunger

FatChancebyDr.RobertLustig

InDefenseofFood,FoodRules,andCookedbyMichaelPollan

WhyWeGetFatbyGaryTaubes

WEBSITESMontereyBaySeafoodWatch:SeafoodWatch.org

EatWild:EatWild.org

AmericanGrass-fedAssociation:AmericanGrassfed.org

LocalHarvest:LocalHarvest.org

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSMyacknowledgmentsbeginwithmywife,Amanda.Whyandhowdoesmywifeplaysointegrallyintotherealityofthisbook?Well,ifitweren’tforher,Iwouldprobablystillbeasmoking,boozing,carb-loading,unhealthymess,andthechancesofmewritingabookaboutwhat itmeanstohaveagoodfooddaywouldbezero.Shegotmeonthetraintowellness, and her influence never came in a nagging, preaching kind of way; it wasdelivered consistently, over time, with a level of nonchalance that somehow had atremendous impact.All the time I looked and felt like shit, I coexistedwithmy svelte,energetic,beautifulwife,andkeptthinking,Iwantsomeofwhatshe’sgot.Upearly,eatingagreatbreakfast,exercising,doingyoga,packingdelicious-lookingsaladsforher lunchandcooking simple, cleanproteinswith some localveggies fordinner.Sheunderstandsthepowerofwhatweputinandonourbodiesandadvocatedforgettingallthetoxicshitoutofourapartment,insistingonorganicorlocalmeatandproduce.Mywife,morethananyone I know, cares deeply about the food she eats and feeds to our two beautifuldaughters, and for that, I am eternally grateful. She is also an English teacher and haspoured over page after page of the many iterations of this book from conception tocompletion,lendingherexpertiseandinsightsalongtheway.ThetitleofthisbookandthenameofmyfirstrestaurantarebothAmanda’sdoing,andallofthistogetherjustscratchesthesurfaceofwhyIamgratefultohaveherasmypartnerincrime.

TammyWalker,damn…whatcan I say?Talkaboutdoinga lotof theheavy lifting.Withoutherdedication thisbookwould still be awork inprogress.We spent countlessafternoons together cooking and talking and eating, and cooking some more. In theprocess,sheacquiredanuncannyabilitytocapturemythoughtsandbeliefsonthepagesof this book. Incredibly generous with her time, she has been a genuine, positive, andsmilingpresencethroughout thisprocess,andahugepartofwhythisbookcameoutasgreat as it has.MichaelHarlanTurkellwas a joy toworkwith aswell, and his photosspeak for themselves. I enjoyed my days working with him so much that I seriouslycontemplatedacareerchangetofoodstylist.

Closetofouryearsago,PamKrausswaswillingtositinanondescriptmidtowncoffeeshop,drinkingcrappycoffeeandlisteningtomepitchthisbook.Shebelievedintheideaofachef-drivencompanioncookbooktoallof thehealthandnutritionbooksthatIwasdevouring,andthankfullyshesupportedthisprojectfromtheget-go.Thefactthatshedidmeansawholelot—sheisano-bullshitkindofladyandIrespectthatimmensely.

JessicaFreeman-Sladeand theentire crewatClarksonPotter,youguys rock! Jessicaawedmetimeandtimeagainwithherthoughtfulnessandattentiontodetail.Sheiswhip-smartandIamluckytohavehadherasmyeditor.

TimFerriss’s4-HourBodywasoneofthefirstbooksIdevouredonthesubjectoflivinga better life. (Confession: I originally thought of A Good Food Day as a companioncookbooktoThe4-HourBody,althoughTimmightnotbedownwithpastarecipes.)Timis the ultimate badass, always pushing and experimenting with ways to optimize time,health,andwellness.Hehastaughtmeandhisreadershowtobecleanerandleaner,andIam grateful to have the ability to shoot him a text to ask about the newest source ofglutathioneorwhat haveyou.He’s a busyguywho somehowalways finds the time to

help.

While we are on the topic of badasses, I’ve got to mention David Black, agentextraordinaire. I’ve always felt safe with him in my corner—he was such a strongadvocate forme over the years, and I am honored to be on his roster of authors. Theminiaturehand-painted rockingchairswithwhichhegiftedeachofmydaughterswhentheywere just weeks old are indicative of the fact that behind his hard-assed businesssavvyisamanwithahuge,thoughtfulheart.

Last,andvery important, Iwant to thankmymomfor instillinginmea loveoffoodandeverythingthatsurroundstheritualsofeating.Shewaswayaheadofhertime:“Eatrealfood,nottoomuch,mostlyplants”washerMOdecadesbeforeMichaelPollangaveeloquentexpressiontosuchanapproach.GrowingherownvegetablesonourpropertyinMilton,NewYork, she taughtme thebeautyandwonderful tasteofquality ingredients,preparedsimply.Whenshecooksmesomethingtoeat,itfeedsmelikenothingelseintheworldcan.AllIcansayis,Youareanamazingmama,Mamma.

ABOUTTHEAUTHOR

Asachef,restaurateur,andcookbookauthor,MARCOCANORAhasbeendoinghisparttopromotedelicious,simple,andhealthfulfood.Since1996,hisItalian-inflectedcookingatHearthandhisformerrestaurantInsiemehasearnedcriticalacclaim.HehascookedatGramercyTavernandatCraftwithTomColicchio,andhisfirstcookbook,SalttoTaste,wasnominatedforaJamesBeardAwardin2009.HehasbeenprofiledintheNewYorkTimes,Food&Wine,andTheHuffingtonPost.Hewasa finalistonTheNext IronChefandajudgeonChoppedandTopChef;andhasappearedonToday,MarthaStewart,andNightline.HelivesinNewYorkwithhisfamily.

www.agoodfoodday.com

INDEXAlkalinefoods

Almonds

Marcona,OldBayRomescoSauce,photo

Amaranth“Polenta”withTuscanKale,photo

Anchovy(ies)

andGarlic,LemonVinaigrettewithWhite,andChickpeaSalad,photoWhite,andSoft-BoiledEggBreakfastSandwiches,photo

Apple

andCauliflower,Caramelized,SoupPear,andCranberryCrumble,SpicedWalnutSpiceMuffins,photo

Asparagus

andLemon,Roasted,withChunkyPesto,photoPoachedBlackBassandClamswithSpringVegetablesandMintShaved,Avocado,andQuinoaSalad,photoSpringOnions,andParsley,BulgurWheatSaladwith,photo

Avocado(s)

Guacamole,photoShavedAsparagus,andQuinoaSalad,photo

Banana(s)

ChocolateShakeandGojiBerryShake,photo

Barley,Mushroom,andKaleSoup,photo

Bean(s).SeealsoLentil

Black,DipChickpeaandWhiteAnchovySalad,photoChickpeaCrepes,photocooking,tipsforCranberry,SoupwithFarro,photofiberinandGreensPotofRibollitaShrimpandChickpeaTrifolati,photo

String,BraisedSunflowerSeedHummusUcceletto,photoWarmVegetableSalad,photoWhite,andTuna,TuscanKaleSaladwith

Beef

Grass-Fed,MeatloafwithRoastedBroccoli,Carrot,andOnionLiverandOnions,photoRosemary-LemonMinuteSteak,photo

Beet,Roasted,SaladwithBeetGreens,Oranges,andPistachios,photo

Berry(ies).SeealsoBlueberry

Goji,andBananaShake,photoMixed,Crumble,photoShake,Dark,photoStrawberryandTomatoGazpacho

BlackBass

withBokChoy,SteamedandClams,Poached,withSpringVegetablesandMint

Blueberry

andBuckwheatButtermilkPancakes,photoandCornMuffinsPie,photo

BokChoy,SteamedBlackBasswith

Bread,Amanda’s

Broccoli

Carrot,andOnion,Roasted,Grass-FedBeefMeatloafwithRoasted,withHazelnutsandPecorino

Broth

bonesforChicken

Brownies,Hazelnut

BrusselsSprouts,Garlicky,photo

Buckwheat

andBlueberryButtermilkPancakes,photoGroatswithApricotsandAlmonds

BulgurWheatSaladwithAsparagus,SpringOnions,andParsley,photo

Burgers,Ginger-ScallionTurkey

Cabbage

Mushrooms,andThyme,BrownRiceRisottowith,photoNapa,andOnions,Lacto-Fermented-RadishSlaw,photo

Cake,OliveOil

Carrot(s)

Broccoli,andOnion,Roasted,Grass-FedBeefMeatloafwithandGinger,Fermented,VinaigretteandGinger,Lacto-Fermented,photoRoasted,withMilletandMint-PistachioPesto,photo,photo

Cashews,CurryandLime,photo

Cauliflower

andApple,Caramelized,SoupandJapaneseSweetPotatoFrittata,photo

Cheese

CacioePepePopcorn,photoChickpeaCrepeSandwicheswithZucchini,Tomato,andMozzarella,photoEscaroleSaladwithPearandPecorino,photoRoastedBroccoliwithHazelnutsandPecorino

Cherry-VanillaOatmealShake

Chicken

BrothCoconutSoup,Thai,photoFlavor-Pounded,photoHerb-RoastedSpatchcock,photoMyPost-WorkoutSaladandRiceSoup,Japanese,photoSoup,Mexican,photoSoup,NewYorkCityJewish-Style,photoThighs,Braised,withGarlic,Lemon,andGreekOlives,photo

Chocolate

CoconutCacaoCardamomPannaCottaDark,andOatmealCookies,photoHazelnutBrowniesShake

Clams

andBlackBass,Poached,withSpringVegetablesandMintandRedSnapper,Poached,withWinterVegetables

Coconut

CacaoCardamomPannaCottaChickenSoup,Thai,photo

Cookies

OatmealandDarkChocolate,photoPeanutButterCacaoNib

Corn,Cream-FreeCreamed

CornandBlueberryMuffins

Crepes,Chickpea,photo

DandelionSaladwithHard-BoiledEggs,photo

Dips

BlackBeanGuacamole,photoSunflowerSeedHummus

Dressings.SeealsoVinaigrettes

Honey-Tangerinepreparing,2.1,2.2

Drinks.SeeShakes

Eggplant

Salad,Thai-Style,photoSoup,Moroccan-Spiced,photo

Egg(s)

Hard-BoiledHard-Boiled,DandelionSaladwith,photoJapaneseSweetPotatoandCauliflowerFrittata,photoMontecastelli,photoSoft-Boiled,andWhiteAnchovyBreakfastSandwiches,photoSpinachScrambledSunnySide-Up,BraisedGreenswith

Escarole

BeansandGreensSaladwithPearandPecorino,photo

Farro

Basic

CranberryBeanSoupwith,photoSalad,CrunchySpring

Fats,dietary,fm3.1,6.1

Fennel

Olives,andLemon,WildSalmoninParchmentwith,photoRoasted,Oil-CuredOlives,andGrapefruit,SpinachSaladwith,photoShaved,Celery,RedOnion,andParsleySalad,photo–WhiteWineSauce,PorkMedallionswith,photo

Fermentedfoods

Fiber

Fish.SeealsoAnchovy(ies);Salmon

buyingandcookingHalibutLivornese,photohealthbenefitsPasseraFrita(Pan-FriedFlounder),photoPoachedBlackBassandClamswithSpringVegetablesandMintPoachedRedSnapperandClamswithWinterVegetablesSteamedBlackBasswithBokChoyTuscanKaleSaladwithWhiteBeansandTunaWholeWheatSpaghetti“conSarde,”photo

Flounder,Pan-Fried(PasseraFrita),photo

FreekehwithSugarSnapPeas,SpringOnions,andFreshHerbs,photo

Frittata,JapaneseSweetPotatoandCauliflower,photo

Fruits.SeealsoBerry(ies);specificfruits

healthbenefits

Ginger

andCarrot,Fermented,VinaigretteandCarrots,Lacto-Fermented,photo-ScallionTurkeyBurgers-SoyVinaigrette

Glycemicindex&glycemicload

GojiBerryandBananaShake,photo

Grains.SeealsoBuckwheat;Farro;Oats;Quinoa;Rice

Amaranth“Polenta”withTuscanKale,photoBulgurWheatSaladwithAsparagus,SpringOnions,andParsley,photoFreekehwithSugarSnapPeas,SpringOnions,andFreshHerbs,photohealthbenefits

Mushroom,Barley,andKaleSoup,photoRoastedCarrotswithMilletandMint-PistachioPesto,photo,photowhole,choosing

Granola

Citrus-SpikedHazelnutandRosemaryEverythingGood,photoTropical

Grapefruit

OdetoOrangeJuliusShakeRoastedFennel,andOil-CuredOlives,SpinachSaladwith,photo

Greens.SeealsoEscarole;Kale;Spinach

Beet,Oranges,andPistachios,RoastedBeetSaladwith,photoBibbLettuceSaladwithBeePollen,photoDandelionSaladwithHard-BoiledEggs,photoMyPost-WorkoutSaladSalmonandArugulaSaladwithPomegranate,photo

Guacamole,photo

HalibutLivornese,photo

Hazelnut(s)

BrowniesandPecorino,RoastedBroccoliwithRomescoSauce,photoandRosemaryGranola,Citrus-Spiked

Herb(s).Seealsospecificherbs

-RoastedSpatchcockChicken,photo

Kale

BraisedGreenswithSunnySide-UpEggsMontecastelliEggs,photoMushroom,andBarleySoup,photoRibollitaTuscan,Amaranth“Polenta”with,photoTuscan,andTomato,LentilSoupwith,photoTuscan,SaladwithWhiteBeansandTuna

LambStew,photo

Lemon

andRosemaryPopcorn

VinaigrettewithGarlicandAnchovy

Lentil

Salad,Warm,photoSoupwithTomatoandTuscanKale,photo

Lettuce,Bibb,SaladwithBeePollen,photo

LiverandOnions,photo

MacadamiaNuts,Slow-Roasted

MangoGreenShake,photo

MapleSyrupVinaigrette

Meat.SeealsoBeef;Lamb;Pork

buyingandcookinglabelingtermspasture-raisedvs.factory-farm

Meatloaf,Grass-FedBeef,withRoastedBroccoli,Carrot,andOnion

MilletandMint-PistachioPesto,RoastedCarrotswith,photo,photo

Mint-PistachioPestoandMillet,RoastedCarrotswith,photo,photo

Muffins

AppleWalnutSpice,photoCornandBlueberry

Mushroom(s)

Barley,andKaleSoup,photoCabbage,andThyme,BrownRiceRisottowith,photoPorcini,andBabySpinach,WholeWheatRigatoniwith,photo

Nuts.SeealsoAlmonds;Hazelnut(s)

AppleWalnutSpiceMuffins,photoCurryandLimeCashews,photoEverythingGoodGranola,photoMacadamia,Slow-RoastedPecanPowerBalls,photoTropicalGranola

Oats.SeealsoGranola

Cherry-VanillaOatmealShakeOatmealandDarkChocolateCookies,photoOvernight,High-Protein

Overnight,No-CookPear-MapleOatmealShakeSteel-Cut,Potof

OliveOilCake

Olives

Fennel,andLemon,WildSalmoninParchmentwith,photoGreek,Garlic,andLemon,BraisedChickenThighswith,photoHalibutLivornese,photoOil-Cured,RoastedFennel,andGrapefruit,SpinachSaladwith,photo

Omega-3fattyacids

Onions

Liverand,photoandPeas,WholeWheatOrecchiettewith,photo

Oranges

BeetGreens,andPistachios,RoastedBeetSaladwith,photoOdetoOrangeJuliusShake

Pancakes,BlueberryandBuckwheatButtermilk,photo

PannaCotta,CoconutCacaoCardamom

Pantrystaples

Pasta

WholeWheatOrecchiettewithPeasandOnions,photoWholeWheatRigatoniwithPorciniMushroomsandBabySpinach,photoWholeWheatSpaghetti“conSarde,”photo

PeachandTomatoSalad,photo

PeanutButterCacaoNibCookies

Pear

Apple,andCranberryCrumble,Spiced-MapleOatmealShakeandPecorino,EscaroleSaladwith,photo

Peas

andOnions,WholeWheatOrecchiettewith,photoSugarSnap,SpringOnions,andFreshHerbs,Freekehwith,photo

PecanPowerBalls,photo

Pepper(s)

RomescoSauce,photoSweet,Peperonata,photo

Pie,Blueberry,photo

Pomegranate,SalmonandArugulaSaladwith,photo

Popcorn

CacioePepe,photoLemonandRosemary

PorkMedallionswithFennel–WhiteWineSauce,photo

Potato(es)

LambStew,photoSweet,Japanese,andCauliflowerFrittata,photoSweet,RosemaryFries,photo

Probiotics

Pudding,SweetBrownRice

PumpkinSeeds,Spiced,photo

Quinoa

BasicPanzanella,photoShavedAsparagus,andAvocadoSalad,photo

RedSnapperandClams,Poached,withWinterVegetables

Rice

Black,SeafoodRisotto,photoBrown,RisottowithMushrooms,Cabbage,andThyme,photoandChickenSoup,Japanese,photoSweetBrown,Pudding

Rosemary

andHazelnutGranola,Citrus-Spiked-LemonMinuteSteak,photoandLemonPopcornSweetPotatoFries,photo

Salads

BibbLettuce,withBeePollen,photoBulgurWheat,withAsparagus,SpringOnions,andParsley,photoChickpeaandWhiteAnchovy,photochoosingingredientsforDandelion,withHard-BoiledEggs,photoEggplant,Thai-Style,photo

Escarole,withPearandPecorino,photoFarro,CrunchySpringFreekehwithSugarSnapPeas,SpringOnions,andFreshHerbs,photoMyPost-WorkoutQuinoaPanzanella,photoRoastedBeet,withBeetGreens,Oranges,andPistachios,photoSalmonandArugula,withPomegranate,photoShavedAsparagus,Avocado,andQuinoa,photoShavedFennel,Celery,RedOnion,andParsley,photoSpinach,withRoastedFennel,Oil-CuredOlives,andGrapefruit,photoTomatoandPeach,photoTuscanKale,withWhiteBeansandTunaWarmLentil,photoWarmVegetable,photo

Salmon

andArugulaSaladwithPomegranate,photoCured,photoQuinoaPanzanella,photoTacoswithGuacamole,Salsa,andCabbage-RadishSlaw,photoWild,inParchmentwithOlives,Fennel,andLemon,photo

Salsa,Tomato,photo

Sandwiches

Breakfast,Soft-BoiledEggandWhiteAnchovy,photoChickpeaCrepe,withZucchini,Tomato,andMozzarella,photo

Sardines

WholeWheatSpaghetti“conSarde,”photo

Sauce,Romesco,photo

Shakes

Cherry-VanillaOatmealChocolateDarkBerry,photoGojiBerryandBanana,photoMangoGreen,photoOdetoOrangeJuliusPear-MapleOatmeal

Shellfish.SeeClams;Shrimp

Shrimp

andChickpeaTrifolati,photoSeafoodBlackRiceRisotto,photo

Slaw,Cabbage-Radish,photo

Snacks,choosing

Soups

CaramelizedCauliflowerandAppleChicken,Mexican,photoChicken,NewYorkCityJewish-Style,photoChickenandRice,Japanese,photoChickenCoconut,Thai,photoCranberryBean,withFarro,photoEggplant,Moroccan-Spiced,photoLentil,withTomatoandTuscanKale,photoMushroom,Barley,andKale,photoRibollitaStrawberryandTomatoGazpacho

Soy-GingerVinaigrette

Spinach

Baby,andPorciniMushrooms,WholeWheatRigatoniwith,photoSaladwithRoastedFennel,Oil-CuredOlives,andGrapefruit,photoScrambledEggs

Squash

Autumn,MapleandSpice-Roasted,photoChickpeaCrepeSandwicheswithZucchini,Tomato,andMozzarella,photoWarmVegetableSalad,photowinter,cuttingup

Stew,Lamb,photo

StrawberryandTomatoGazpacho

Sugar,9.1,9.2

SunflowerSeedHummus

Tacos,Salmon,withGuacamole,Salsa,andCabbage-RadishSlaw,photo

Tangerine(s)

BibbLettuceSaladwithBeePollen,photo-HoneyDressing

Tomato(es)

BraisedStringBeansCrunchySpringFarroSaladHalibutLivornese,photoandPeachSalad,photoQuinoaPanzanella,photoRomescoSauce,photo

Salsa,photoandStrawberryGazpachoandTuscanKale,LentilSoupwith,photoUccelettoBeans,photoZucchini,andMozzarella,ChickpeaCrepeSandwicheswith,photo

TunaandWhiteBeans,TuscanKaleSaladwith

TurkeyBurgers,Ginger-Scallion

Umami-richingredients

Vegetable(s).Seealsospecificvegetables

cookingmethodshealthbenefits,3.1,3.2Salad,Warm,photoshoppingforSpring,andMint,PoachedBlackBassandClamswithWinter,PoachedRedSnapperandClamswith

Vinaigrettes

FermentedCarrotandGingerHoney-CiderLemon,withGarlicandAnchovyMapleSyruppreparingSoy-Ginger

WalnutAppleSpiceMuffins,photo

Zucchini

Tomato,andMozzarella,ChickpeaCrepeSandwicheswith,photoWarmVegetableSalad,photo