A Forecast on the Textile Processing Industry in 21C

8/8/2019 A Forecast on the Textile Processing Industry in 21C

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A forecast on the textile processing industry in 21C 1.Classification of fib...dification technology - IS Co., Ltd. Senshoku Keizai Shimbun textileinfo.com

Technology

Contentsforecast on thextile processingdustry in 21C

Classification of fiber surfacemodificationtechnology

Functional finish

to make textile

like human skin

Design of fabrics for functional

finishes

Functional finish

and new

technology in

future

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A forecast on the textile processing industry in 21

Editor of textileIS Co., Ltd.

1.Classification of fiber surface modification technology

Many kinds of functional finishes are increasingly processed in Japanese textileindustries. The aim of these finishes is to produce textiles which are comfortabfor the consumer. Such functional finishes to realize comfort are divided intotwo categories, that is “Physically based technology” and “Chemically basedtechnology”.

Recently, the number of developments in physically based technology, whichcan harmonize the environment and production, have increased becauseregulations on chemical substances have become stricter.

At present, although chemically based technology is still major, its combinationwith physically based technology is steadily increasing (Figure-1).

Figure-1 Classification of fiber surface modification technology1)

One example of physically based technology, which is not included in Figure-1,is the shrink proofing of wool without using chlorine. This new technology wasdeveloped first in the world by the wool department of Kurabo (Japan) andcommercialized under the name of ECO-WASH 21. This technology adoptsspecial ozone treatment instead of chlorine treatment, and was developed onthe supposition that regulations on chlorine use would become globally stricter(Photo-1).

Prof ． Inagaki in the Faculty of Engineering of Shizuoka Univ. (Japan)is also

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working on the shrink proofing of wool employing low temperature plasma2).

Prof. Takagishi in Tokyo Kasei Univ. is studying the same theme usingpotassium hydrogen persulfate (PMS) and Keratinase (enzyme for hydrolysis o

keratin), and evaluating the dyeing behavior of the treated wool3).

Photo-1 Comparison of the surface of wool (electron microscope)

The reason for the increase in such research is that strict controls have startedto be imposed on the amounts used of halogens, such as fluorine, chlorine,bromine and iodine.

HBCD (hexabromocyclododecane), a flame retardant has proved to be toxic,and its use is carefully controlled.

Although the flame retardant effect of DBDE is expected to be higher byincorporating antimony trioxide, recently the generation of highly toxic dioxinshas been confirmed, thus the regulation of those chemicals has become stricteAt present, flame retardants are widely applied to curtains and flags etc., andrecently new flame retardants for polyester fiber based on phosphates havebeen developed to solve this problem.

As a topic in Japan, the generation of dioxins in the bleaching process in thepulp industry is confirmed, although the situation is different in the bleaching ocotton. Thus, in Japanese dyehouses, they check the content of AOX andhalomethane in their effluent, and some are employing further treatment suchas activated carbon. But it pushes the costs up so much that new technologywhich uses light irradiation for cotton bleaching is progressing.

The organizations who are studying this technology are Sangyo SougoKenkyusho (Japan) and Nisshinbo. They are making joint efforts to acceleratethe research. Their work named “light bleaching” aims to make only the colore





contamination absorb the light and activate it then to react with rather mild

chemicals to decompose the color at room temperature4).

The special feature of this method is that the cellulose itself can be bleachedwith almost no damage. For bulk production, a new pilot plant was installed,and tests for commercialization have been continuing. We are expectingsuccessful results for light irradiation bleaching based on physical technology,because the state of bleached cotton influences the effectiveness of functionalfinishing.

The above-mentioned research is the ultimate example of “the harmonization othe environment and production” although research along that course is alsoincreasing. The research forwards the establishment of ultimate new technologcan be helpful indeed, in the establishment of that new technology.

Reference1)K.Joukou: presented in the discussion at Japan Dyers’ Association meeting2-4)From the annual meeting of The Society of Fiber Science and Technology,Japan 2005

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A forecast on the textile processing industry in 21C 2.Functional finish to ...xtile like human skin - IS Co., Ltd. Senshoku Keizai Shimbun textileinfo.com

Technology


Classification of

fiber surface

modification

technology

Functional finishto make textilelike human skin

Design of fabrics for functional

finishes

Functional finish

and new

technology in

future




2.Functional finish to make textile like human skin

In Japan, functional finishes to textiles for apparel and technical use areincreasing, and the requirement for apparel use is the sensitivity and thecompatibility to surrounding circumstances.

The human skin has moisture absorbency and repellency to water, oil andsoiling, and release them easily. To give such performance to the textiles is astrong research sector for Japanese technical experts.

Reviewing the history of the development of functional finishes on textiles in

Japan, we have cultivated the advantages and covered the disadvantages of natural and synthetic fibers to meet the customers’ needs. One of the defects o100% cotton woven fabric is a high tendency to crease, then its blends withwashable polyester were developed competing with overseas textilemanufactures.

Since 1945, wash and wear finish and permanent press finish for preventingcreasing in cotton woven fabrics has become popular, but these technologieswere first developed in the US. However, shape stabilizing finishes on cottondeveloped in Japan are globally accepted in the apparel industry.

On the other hand, new synthetic fibers which give the advantages of naturalfibers, such as good hand, appearance and water and sweat absorbency, havebeen progressively developed, still keeping their inherent properties.

One of the examples is called “Bionature” developed by Kurabo (Japan). Thisfiber consists of hydrolysable/biodegradable polyester, and its characteristic isbeyond the classification between natural and synthetic fibers. This fiber hasbeen put on sale for 2006 Spring/Summer apparel.

Bionature is made from “Biomax” hydrolysable/biodegradable polyester resin

(Du Pont) and can be blended with cotton or wool to produce polyester/cottonor polyester/wool environment-friendly textiles. This may be a profoundcollaboration of ideas both from DuPont and Kurabo.

This technology belongs to a chemically based one.

▽ Characteristics of Bionature


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・ hydrolysable/biodegradable propertiesBionature can be gradually biodegraded through hydrolysis, where sufficienwater, temperature (warmth) and microorganisms exist, and finally producewater and carbon dioxide. The rate of degradation is very slow and has noadverse effect on the environment.

・ InflammabilityThe amount of carbon dioxide generated from incineration of Bionature isless than that of other fibers, and the heat of incineration is also less, thatmeans a lesser burden to the incinerator. No harmful substances has beendetected in the ash.

・ Physical propertiesThe heat stability of Bionature is high enough because its raw material ispolyester resin. Where the hydrolysis does not happen, no biodegradationoccurs, then, there is almost no degradation in practical use.

A lot of functional finishes will be developed in future in Japan, and Prof. Joukoof Kyoto Women’s Univ. presented a classification of functional finishes at ameeting of the Japan Dyers’ Association in Osaka in June 2005 (Figure-1).Thisclassification includes physically based technology and chemically based

technology, the former is the improvement of potential function by modificatioof the inner part of the fiber, and the later is the settlement of additional

function by modification of the surface of the fiber5).

He explained that the former includes crease-resistant finish, wash-and-wearfinish, permanent-press finish, shape-stabilizing finish, shrink-proofing finish,mercerizing, imitation-linen finish, hardening finish, softening finish, salt-shrinking finish, weighting finish, deep-coloring treatment and weight-reducingtreatment, and later includes water-repellent finish, oil-repellent finish,hydrophilic finish, soil-repellent and release finish, antistatic finish, stretchingfinish, mothproofing finish, antimicrobial and smell-proofing finish, ultraviolet-

protection finish.

According to our investigation, the process of incorporating active chemicals inthe fiber in its manufacturing stage is increasing and the product obtained iscalled “functional fiber”, but functional finishes (physical and chemical) are stilmajor at present.

Some famous textile finishers who are active in their operation have establishemany kinds of basic finishing technology for the aftertreatment of polyesterfabrics to allow the customer to feel safety and comfort in the clothes.

One example is graft polymerization on the fiber surface to improve moistureabsorbency in order to give physiological comfort to the customer. Forimproving sweat absorbency, surface polymerization and polymer coating of fiber surfaces are employed.

For breathable waterproofing finish, a surface modification using porous film aconjugated polymer is commercially produced. New technology of improving thpenetration of active chemicals into the fiber, combined with skillful utilization polymer film technology was established in order to promote the antimicrobialand smell-proofing effect. For an effective antistatic finish, new surfacemodification technology using grafted polymer film was also established. For





making the fiber electro-conductive, some metals are skillfully adhered to thefiber. This technology is also included in surface modification.

The purpose of the functional finish is to confer not only physiological comfort,but also give safety and durability to the textiles.

To make fibers noninflammable and polyester fiber nonmeltable, a combinationof three basic technologies, those are thorough penetration into fiber, graft

polymerization and polymer film technology, is successfully employed. Thistechnology is characterized by the simultaneous effect of the modifications of the inner structure and the surface of the fiber.

Most of those technologies are summarized as surface modificationtechnologies.

Other finishers also concentrate their activity on surface modificationtechnologies.

In Japan, functional finish using a photocatalyst is developing although this

technology is still under discussion. In these circumstances, major Japanesetextile processors utilize some surface modification technologies and haveapplied for some patents concerning smell-proofing of synthetic fiber,preventing the adsorption of smell and improving the durability of these effectsto washing.This technology is characterized by using a photocatalyst of thevisual light response type and preventing the dye and the fiber fromdegradation.

Summary of physical and chemical modification of the fiber

As mentioned above, functional finishes are divided into two categories, namedphysical finish and chemical finish. Prof. K. Joukou of Kyoto Women’s Univ.

explained at the Japan Dyers’ Association meeting held in June 20056) ; “Thenature of physical finishes is noncontact and nonaqueous treatment.At presentphysical modifications based on UV, laser and low temperature plasma attracthigh attention, and are studied aggressively. One of the advantages of thissurface modification is that the modification is restricted only to the surface,without influencing any fundamental properties of the fiber. These modificationeffects come from chemical and/or physical reactions, but their classification isdifficult.”

Reference5-6) Lecture meeting by K-Jouko at Japan Dyer’s Association meeting


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A forecast on the textile processing industry in 21C 3.Design of fabrics for functional finishes - IS Co., Ltd. Senshoku Keizai Shimbun textileinfo.com

Technology


Classification of

fiber surface

modification

technology

Functional finish

to make textile

like human skin

Design of fabricsfor functionalfinishes

Functional finish

and new

technology in

future




3.Design of fabrics for functional finishes

In Japan, it is considered to be important to optimize the relation between “structure of woven or knitted fabric “ and “ functional finish “ in order to gaineffective functional finishes.

Even though the same chemicals for water-repellent and oil-repellent finishesare used, the effect given by these chemicals varies depending on the fabrics tbe treated or on the finishing mills. Whether the suitable structure of fabrics isemployed or not is especially important.

Recently, in the technical textile area, resin coatings are gradually changingfrom organic solvent types to aqueous types. With an advance in this change,the structure of fabrics to be coated and the selection of optimum coatingmachines are regarded as important. European literature said that fluorocarbochemicals are effective for improving soil-repellency. In Japan, there are a fewopinions that specialized silicones may be major in the future.

Dr. Wakida (emeritus professor of Kyoto Institute of Technology) et al presentnew ideas of water repellency on the occasion of the annual meeting of TheSociety of Fiber Science and Technology in Gifu (Japan) on June 2005. Thecontent of this discussion is the change of the fiber surface properties caused b

washing and heat treatment of water-repellent woven fabrics. Silk palace andwool tropical were treated with zirconium based water-repellent finishes andsilicone resins by the pad-dry-cure process. KES, shear and bending propertiesof these treated fabrics are measured. The water- repellency of these fabricsdecreases with washing but recovers through heat treatment. Mechanicalproperties of zirconium-based water-repellent finishes were also explained in

detail7). Theoretical analysis on water-repellency will progress, and manytechnical experts expect Dr Wakida to continue his work.

Mr. K. Nishi (Meisei Chemical, Japan) et al also presented on the related subjec “ Effect of washing and heat treatment on nylon 6 and triacetate fabrics treated

with hydrocarbon water-repellent finish “.

On the other hand, the presentation of Mr. Y. Yanai (Shinshu Univ. )et al, whicwas the relation between liquid ammonia treatment conditions and the structu

change of cotton, drew much attention8). The summary of this presentation wathat a change of processing speed on the bulk liquid ammonia treatmentmachine alters the degree of dryness and finally leads to changes in thestructures of both crystalline and amorphous parts. With the advance of dryingthe portion of type Ⅲ crystalline becomes higher. (Crystalline form of cotton

changes from type Ⅰ to type Ⅱor type Ⅲ by chemical treatment.) And with an

increase in the rate of drying, the portion of the amorphous part increases. The


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A forecast on the textile processing industry in 21C 3.Design of fabrics for functional finishes - IS Co., Ltd. Senshoku Keizai Shimbun textileinfo.com

change of the amorphous part is very complex ; crease-resistant properties,tensile strength and flex rigidity increase, but pore volume and moistureretention decrease, with an increase the rate of drying. The moisture regain antensile strength increase at the beginning of drying, but above a certain pointthey gradually decrease with the advance of drying. The exhaustion degree of the dye also slightly increases with liquid ammonia treatment, but its relation t

the degree of drying is very complicated8). This result is expected to be appliedto bulk production.

Reference7-8)From the annual meeting of The Society of Fiber Science and Technology,Japan 2005.


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A forecast on the textile processing industry in 21C 4.Functional finish and... technology in future - IS Co., Ltd. Senshoku Keizai Shimbun textileinfo.com

Technology


Classification of

fiber surface

modification

technology

Functional finish

to make textile

like human skin

Design of fabrics

for functional

finishes

Functional finishand newtechnology infuture




4.Functional finish and new technology in future

The purpose of functional finishes is to allow all the textiles including appareland technical for all end-use, high-grade functions. The utilization of so callednanotechnology can not be ignored to secure further advantages.Nanotechnology is indispensable in the design of new products with specializedfeatures through the control of nano structures. Scientists expect that nanostructure will be used to build separate parts or to construct large particles orfibers. It stimulates innovation in fiber, film and coating technology and mayhelp to make up large materials like building blocks.

Recently, a Japanese textile processor has developed a new technology, whichthe coating of a very thin (nano level ) metal film on a sheet consisting of woven, knitted or nonwoven fabric. This method does not use any adhesivesuch as a binder, and the metal attaches to the sheet only by physical energy,that is, molecular or atomic attraction. By attaching the metal film on thesurface of the sheet, new performance of hydrophilic properties,electromagnetic shielding and UV protection are attained. Further advantagessuch as high heat insulation are also realized. Many creative nano technologieswill be released in the future market to differentiate the effects of functionalfinishes. It is undeniable that functional finish is a technical bridge forharmonization with the environment and production.


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A Forecast on the Textile Processing Industry in 21C

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