A Climbing Guide to Moss Island -...

A CLIMBING GUIDE TO

MOSS ISLAND, LITTLE FALLS NY

Geoffrey S Childs & Gary C Thomann

Arietta Climbing

Singletrack Publishing

Version 1.3 April 2012

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction ........................................................... 1

Geology ............................................................................. 2 Grading, Protection, Top Ropes, Bolts, Rules, Etiquette ............................................................................ 4 Other Information ............................................................. 6

West End Routes ................................................... 8

Dick and Carol Area ............................................ 11

Running Nose Area ............................................. 13

Dave Laubo Area ................................................. 16

Bob King Area ..................................................... 20

The ‘Jeff Loves Eileen’ or ‘Power Tower” Area 23

Profile Rock aka 'Fred P. Jones' Area ............... 26

East End Routes .................................................. 30

A Climbing Guide to Moss Island, Little Falls NY 2012 Singletrack Publishing Published and distributed by Arietta Climbing

Singletrack Publishing 222 S Ten Broeck St, Apt 7 Scotia NY 12302 Publishing history Little Falls: A climber’s Guide to Moss Island and other Outcrops, 1990 Update to the 1990 guide in 1994 (6 pages) Adobe pdf version 1.0 in 2007 Adobe pdf version 1.1, May 2008 Adobe pdf version 1.2, June 2011 Adobe pdf version 1.3, April 2012 Cover Lock 17 postcard All photos by Gary Thomann Corrections, additions should be sent to [email protected]

Moss Island Introduction 1

A CLIMBING GUIDE TO MOSS ISLAND, LITTLE FALLS NY

Introduction This guide started out as a reprint of the Moss Island part of Geoffrey Childs 1990 Little Falls climbers guide. I asked Geoffrey if it was ok to update his guide and received permission to do so. I scanned a borrowed copy of the 1990 guide (thanks Coach), ran the resulting files through a character recognition program, did some editing, and then converted the guide to pdf for easy distribution. I condensed some of the text. I added a photograph of each cliff and a few photos of climbers. All the cliff drawings that Geoffrey made were copied from the original guide. I modified the drawings to remove graffiti that has been removed from the cliff. Each edition of the guide includes more alterations that I have made. Still, it is Geoffrey’s work that is the core of the guide. The crags on the north side of the river (Wind Wall, Dihedrals, etc.) were described in another guide. Unfortunately, the north side cliffs are owned by a person who is not climber friendly, and you cannot climb there unless you seek out the owner and pay him. The north side cliffs are becoming overgrown and difficult to approach. Hopefully, someday public climbing will be allowed on the north side and they can be cleaned up again. The guide to the north side cliffs has been withdrawn and is no longer available. Moss Island is just upstream (west) of the Wind bridge (highway 169) over the Mohawk River in Little Falls. From anywhere south of Little Falls the easiest way there is I90. Get off at Exit 29A and drive north. Just before you go onto the Wind bridge turn left onto a road down to the parking lot. To get to the cliffs walk west, go up the stairs and across Lock 17. If you are coming from the north, the north end of the Wind bridge hits Highway 5, which of course runs east west along the north shore of the Mohawk. The cliffs on the island range in height from about 30 to 50 ft. Despite the lack of height most climbers will find something that will be a challenge. Who owns the cliffs on Moss Island? They are on land owned by the State of New York (NYS) under the jurisdiction of the NYS Canal Authority (part of the NYS Thruway Authority). Normally there has been a fee to climb at Moss Island; permits were available at the Little Falls Police Department. The City has not required permits since 2010 and, I


think, also will not in 2012. The Canal Authority does not take an active role in managing the rock climbing. The cliffs are essentially managed by a committee of local climbers that look after the cliffs and do maintenance. Geology There was a sign on Moss Island stating the cliffs are metasyenite. What kind of name is that? All rock climbers know there are only four kinds of rock - granite, basalt, limestone and sandstone. Well, syenite is sort of a brother-in-law to granite. Granite is an igneous (solidified from magma) rock composed of crystals of quartz (SiO2), alkali feldspar (a continuous mixture from KAlSi3O8 to NaAlSi3O8) and plagioclase feldspar (a mixture from CaAl2Si2O8 to NaAlSi3O8) with small quantities of muscovite (common, white or potash mica), biotite (black mica, an iron rich version of muscovite), hornblende (a black to dark green crystal mixture of calcium-iron-mangesium silicate, aluminum-iron-magnesium silicate and iron-mangesium silicate) and usually smaller amounts of other minerals. In order to be granite the proportions of quartz, alkali feldspar and plagioclase feldspar must remain within certain limits. If you stray outside those boundaries you don’t get granite. In the case where there is little quartz and most of the feldspar is alkali, usually at the KAlSi3O8 end of the mixture, you get syenite. Syenite usually also contains the other minerals that are in granite. Syenite is not easy to form; apparently you need to heat granite to a point where it just begins to melt, causing the KAlSi3O8 to flow out of it. Not something you want to try at home. That takes care of the “syenite” part, but what about the “meta.” The prefix means the rock is metamorphic. After forming as an igneous rock, it was subject to great pressure and temperature, which causes rearrangement of the minerals, but not actual melting. There is often a banding effect, named foliation or lineation (the two are different but I’m not sure just how). The name for metamorphic rock is gneiss, so the cliffs at Moss Island could be called syenite gneiss instead of metasyenite. As you may know, there is metasyenite in the Adirondacks; Pitchoff mountain is one example. I believe the Barkeater cliffs on the northeast shoulder of Pitchoff are metasynite; to me they look much like the rock at Little Falls. The metasyenite at both places was formed by the same processes, before and during the Grenville orogeny (mountain building) that occurred over one billion years ago. Another relative of granite occurs when there is again little quartz, but the feldspar is mostly


CaAl2Si2O8; this rock is anorthosite. The High Peaks region of the Adirondacks is (meta)anorthosite. The second part of the geology question is – why are the cliffs located at Little Falls and not at Scotia, an hour downstream, where I live? What geologic prank caused them to occur there? The basement rocks (the metanorthosite, metasyenite, granitic gneiss and other metamorphic rocks) from the Grenville orogeny underlie much of the eastern United States and Canada, extending all the way down through Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana and into Mexico. In most places they are buried, covered by younger formations. All of New York, except for Long Island, has this basement rock. The old rocks are exposed in the Adirondacks because something, apparently a hot spot in the mantle, has caused the Adirondack area to rise up, and as it did so the younger formations eroded away. The reason the rocks are exposed at Little Falls is a bit different. About 430 million years ago there was another mountain building event (the Taconic orogeny) to the east of us. Toward the end of this orogeny there was some stretching of the earth’s crust which caused generally north/south running cracks (faults) to develop in the Mohawk Valley. Land on each side of the fault would either rise up (an upraised section is named a horst) or drop down (a graben). One of these faults runs through Little Falls; on the east the surface dropped down and on the west a horst formed. And there it sat, generally blocking traffic. Much later, just a few minutes ago in geologic time, the ice age occurred. Toward the end of the ice age, around 13,500 years ago, Lake Iroquois developed and for a time it drained through what is now the Mohawk valley. The high volume drainage cut a channel down through the Little Falls horst, all the way to the rock we see exposed today. Another fault crossing I90 is the Noses Fault a few miles east of Canajoharie. On the east side of this fault, just a few feet south of the interstate, you can see another piece of the same basement metasyenite sticking up from the earth. Watch for it as you drive home toward Albany after climbing at Moss Island.


Grading, Protection, Top Ropes, Bolts, Rules, Etiquette This guide uses the Yosemite Decimal System. Climbs are rated from 5.0-5.9 and thereafter 5.10a to 5.10d etc. Aid is rated A1-A5. The ratings at the island are historical, old school and hard. If you can lead 5.9 at other areas and come to Moss Island and can’t get up a 5.8, don’t worry about it; that’s just the way the ratings are here. Except for a couple of climbs, there is no trad climbing protection rating included in the guide. Although many of the climbs could be led, except for the beginner cracks on the Jeff Loves Eileen wall there does not seem to be much leading done at Moss Island; most climbs are done on top rope. For setting top ropes, there are numerous ways to walk to the top of the cliffs. Until the last two years there were few bolt anchors above the cliffs. Recently bolt anchors were added above some of the climbs. The criteria for selecting climbs to have anchors were

1. Protect trees that were be used as part of a top rope anchor. 2. Reduce risks in setting up top ropes. 3. Encourage climbing on some of the lesser used routes.

There was some controversy when the bolts were first installed, but that seems to have disappeared and the bolts are now well accepted. Climbers should not add additional bolt anchors without talking to other climbers at the Island. Climbers should never put any bolts on the face


of the cliffs; all present bolts are on the horizontal ramps above the climbs and any future placements should also be there. For setting top ropes you need to bring some equipment with you. Even for the climbs with bolt anchors will need some extensions. A good (and cheap) investment is a couple of 30 ft pieces of 1 inch tubular climbing webbing. You can tie loops in these (overhand or figure 8) and use them for extending the anchor over the cliff edge. If you tie pieces of webbing together or make a sling use the water knot aka ring knot.

Water knot in webbing You should have some regular slings; a cordelette may also be helpful. Cordelettes are normally made from a piece of 7 or 8 mm nylon accessory cord about 20 feet long and tied in a loop. Use a double fishermans knot in this case. If using that high tech cord of high-modulus polyethylene (HMPE), then make it a triple knot. That stuff is very slippery. Two trade names for HMPE are Spectra and Dyneema. On climbs that do not have mechanical anchors, cams and/or nuts are needed to build an anchor. Occasionally climbers will connect to a tree well back from the cliff. A length of static rope can be used to do this; 3/8 inch static rope is great for this. If you do use a tree for an anchor, please be gentle. You also need some carabineers. Of course all top rope setups should be double fail safe. For example, if there is a pair of bolted anchors at the top of the route you are setting up, you could use the two pieces of tubular webbing with loops at each end. Biners connect each piece to an anchor and at the other end each has a biner for the rope to go through. It is best if all four biners are locking. For leading a dynamic rope should be used, but for tope roping either a dynamic or static rope can be used. If you are working a route, the static rope has the advantage that when you fall rope stretch will not cause you to slide down the cliff. Static ropes are also safe near the ground, because if you fall near the beginning of the climb rope stretch will not

Double fisherman know


cause you to bounce off the ground. However, because the island routes are so short this is not usually a problem. Moss Island can sometimes be crowded. If you set up a top rope on a popular climb (Beer Crack, Snow White, Fred P Jones, etc.), please offer the setup to other groups. Other Information Dial 911 (Herkimer County) for emergency response. Little Falls Police Department (315-823-1122) is located at 659 E Main Street in the City Court Building. Little Falls Hospital (315-823-1000 general number, 315-823-5311 Emergency Department) is located at 140 Burwell Street at the east end of town. There is a map on the next page that shows the location of the police department and the hospital as well as restaurants and other places where you can have fun in Little Falls.

Moss Island 7

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Moss Island West End Routes 8

West End Routes

From the lock walk west to the end of the cliff. 0. Entire Cliff Traverse (V3/4 right to left) Traverse the entire cliff, cruxes at Mr. Smiley wall (somewhat off the ground), Bob King traverse and the Superman buttress. May be easier left to right. 1. West End Descent Route (Class 2) Climb up or down easy ledges at the far left end of the cliffs.


2. Dogville (5.2) Climb a 3” crack just to the left of the word “Dolgeville” 3. Mark’s Crack (5 10) Climb the thin overhanging crack. 4. Seduction Crack (5.8) A hidden hold unlocks the crack 5' right of the previous route. 5. Cool-Headed (5.3) Six feet right of Seduction Creek a generous crack climbs first to a ledge and then the top. 5a. Un-named (5.10) Start just left of the right facing corner. Climb up the face. Hit the slopers and go left to the ledge. The arête to the right is off. Head straight up the face above to finish (go directly through the overhang on Sister Moonshine). 6. Sister Moonshine (5.9) Climb a short face left of an easier right-facing corner. Work through the overhang to a ledge, then move right onto a bulging face and up to the top. 6a. Un-named (5.11) Start right of Sister Moonshine, climb the arête to the top including the overhanging top. 7. Sno-White (5.8)** A popular climb, partially because there are bolt anchors at the top making it easy to set up. Climb up the small right-facing corner about 10 ft until you are under a small roof. Make the tricky move around to the left and then up to stand on the ledge. Muscular moves lead to the top. Tall climbers may find that the small roof forces them out and off the climb. The solution is in your feet. 8. Lets Stand Him on his Head (5.1) Climb up the corner/chimney right of Sno-Whlte. 9. Climbski (5.5) Climb to a short clean crack 12' right of the previous route. Follow crack to the top.


10. Comic Kink (5.10) Start 11' right of the previous route on a ledge. Climb the steep face to a tiny overhang, passing it on the left side to reach the top. 11. Otch! (Class 3) ' Climb up or down on a broken ramp just to the right of the previous route. 12. More or Less (5.7) Right of the Otch! ramp, climb directly up the face passing just left of a pointed horizontal indentation. 13. Power Tower (5.6) Climb the face directly behind the cement paddock that supports the large steel tower. Stay scrupulously left of easier rock. 14. Tower Ramp (Class 4) Find a large left-facing niche with light-colored, broken rock. You may scramble up or down this enjoyable access route to the top or create a modest and reassuring fifth class climb (5.0) by climbing straight up at the top rather than traversing left.

Moss Island Dick & Carol Area 11

Dick and Carol Area This area was named after a sailboat with the words “Dick & Carol” under it that was painted on the cliff. The paint has been removed, but I left the sailboat in the drawing. As of the fall of 2007 you could still see the work “Sieg” and the paint splatters below it. The “Jeff & Vicki” was also visible. Perhaps these can be removed soon. You can also just see the peace sign on the cliff; for now I have left it in the drawing.

15. Seque (5.5) Climb the left side of a paint-splattered overhang below the word "Sieg" to a ledge. Follow the crack above to the top. 16. Fern Crack (5.3) 10' right of the previous route mantle onto a block covered in ferns. Climb the crack above to the top.

Moss Island Dick & Carol Area 12

17. Sail Away (5.9) A boulder problem start (which can be by-passed on either side) will take you directly up the middle of the "Dick and Carol" sailboat. Continue past two ledges and a small overhang to the top. 18. You're in the Army Now (5.8) Climb the center of the face 10' right of Sail Away and just left of a pink streak. 19. Peach Fuzz (5.7) Climb up the middle of a orange-colored face left of the peace symbol. A Variation is Peach Pit (5.9). Start at the lowest stair-like block. 20. Da Ma Was Here (5 .3 Climb the slightly slanting corner just to the right of Peach Fuzz. 21. Twist fit (5 .9) Climb straight up a short face 4' right of the Peach Fuzz corner. Do not use the rippled corner to the left. 22. Crummy Corner (5.3) Climb the obvious left-facing tiered corner to the right of the previous route. 23. Thit or Tam Cane Loves You (5.7)* Just right of Crummy Corner, climb an interesting crack with two triangles and a small overhang 24. Tiny Corners (5.10)* Unlock the right sequence to climb the steep face past a small corner and a small overhang.

Moss Island Running Nose Area 13

Running Nose Area

Several of the routes in this portion of the cliff are considered to be somewhat under-rated. An especially good traverse exists directly beneath the Running Nose. 25. Who Put That There? (5.3) Climb an easy corner to a battered tree and bypass the overhang above by simpering left.


26. Milquetoast or Triple Overhang (5.10-)* Climb the short but awkward crack on the right side of the pillar. Step left and then jam your way over two short ceilings. Originally graded 5.8 this climb takes good protection and is occasionally led. A variation is Mental Block (5.10). Atop the first pedestal climb directly up the face of the block above you finishing just right of the last ceiling. 27. Canes Crack (5.5)* Climb the same crack as the previous route to the top of the pillar. Hand and fist jams will take you to the top. A good route to lead. 28. Fool’s Overture (5 10-)* Make a hard boulder move to reach good buckets on the steep brown-colored face right of the pillar. Take a step right and finish directly past a single root growing to a triangular crack (crux). A variation is Witch Way (5.8). Continue the traverse on Fool's Overture and turn the corner before heading up. If you can’t do the starting move do a left hand finger jam in the crack to the left for an easier beginning. 29. Little Feat (5.10+)* Climb a short beige-colored face capped by the huge Running Nose overhang staying just left of the inverted tiers. Turn the roof on the left and continue to the top. 29a. Superman (5.12) Climb the face and overhangs direct. The route passes just right of an old anchor in the rock above the overhanging tiers. 30. Spiderman (5.11+)** A seldom-repeated problem. Start directly below the largest expanse of the overhangs with a finger-tip undercling. Find better holds leading to the lip, then work slightly right and over finishing on the small but difficult nose above. 31. Days to Come (5.10+) Slightly contrived. Start in a crouched position beneath the right portion of the low roof. Climb this problem then ascend a second overhang at the nose and face climb to the top. 32. Forgotten Future (5.9) Turn the first roof before the large open book (Appendix) and continue up the prominent rippled face.


33. Appendix (5.5) Start in the back of the deep open book and climb straight up through the overhanging blocks. A variation is Hydraplex. Climb out the faces on either the left or right and then up. 34. Playback (5.7 Climb buckets on the right wall of Appendix and turn the nose to a good stance. Step right and climb a small corner to an overhang and the top. A variation is Woki (5.7+). Start at the right end of a distinct horizontal finger crack that angles back left to the nose. Two energetic reaches will bring you to the halfway stance on Playback. 35. Peal of Laughter (5.9)* At the right end of the finger crack (Woki) make bouldering moves directly up the face and confront the overhang directly. 36. Unhinged or The Hinge (5.9)* A few steps right of the previous route climb the face to a smell ledge. then continue through the overhang at a small slanting flake. 36a. Good Boulder Problem (V3) Begin on crimps under the overhang. Climb straight out of the hole and up slopers on the face above. Wall to the left is OFF.

Moss Island Dave Laubo Area 16

Dave Laubo Area

Named after graffiti that is no longer there, the 'Dave Laubo' slab at the right end is popular as a teaching station for new climbers. 37. Is This the Way Down (Class 4) A broken chimney filled with blocks and dirt. NOT A RECOMMENDED ROUTE. It is seldom used for getting to the top of the clif. 38. Corner Edge (5.9)* Start on the left side of the arête formed by a left-facing beige-colored corner. An enjoyable sequence and some palming will lead you to


turning the arête and a finish on Looking Glass. In early 2012 there is vegetation on this route and it seldom seems to be done. 39. Looking Glass (5.10)* This is, on the other hand, a recommended route. Climb a clean, gritty, many-hued face to an overhang. Step right and climb the face above to the top. Variation – don’t step right, continue directly over the roof (5.11). 40. Cold Tomorrow (5.9) Start 3' right of Looking Glass and go straight up the face. The first half is reasonable for the grade. The upper part is very thin, difficult, and requires excellent feet. 41. Applesauce (5.8) A few feet left of a left-facing inside corner climb straight up the face to the top. 42. Awkwardness (5.3) Climb the awkward left-facing inside corner. 42a. Curbar (5.9) Climb the arête just left of Vegematic. You can either step right onto the face about halfway up or continue up the arête, same grade either way. Most climbers try to make the awkward move onto the face. 43. Vegematic (5.9) Climb the left portion of the large gray face just right of Awkwardness by starting on a sloping ledge 3' above the ground. 44. Kinky Kruise (5.11)* Some years ago a key hold broke off this route. You'll regret its loss. Start the same as for the previous route, but continue directly up the bulging face above. Very thin. 45. Poof! You're a Pomegranite! (5.8)* It's name not withstanding, this is a good route. Same start as the last two, only work right to a series of left-facing edges. 46. Poof! You're an Avocado (5 .6) Start past a small overhang just off the ground about 10' right of the previous route. Head up right of a flake, then move left at the halfway point to follow another flake to the top.


47. Swinging Birches (5.6) Climb the center of the face behind a birch tree. A mantle problem brings you to the top. 48a. The Warmup (5.7)* Go up the rounded arête 8 ft left of the big corner (Educational Corner). At the top if you move left it is easiest. If you go straight up the final move is much harder, perhaps 5.9. There are bolt anchors at the top that make this climb easy to set up. 48. Older but Weissner (5.8?)* Start up the rounded arête 8 ft left of the big corner (Educational Corner). At some point move to the right and climb the small roof. Generally, the higher you go before moving to the right the easier it is. This climb is named after the dean of modern North American climbing. There is a redirect bolt at the top of this climb which allows the use of the anchor above 48a. However the redirect bolt is not well placed, if you fall near the bottom of the climb you will swing into the wall on the right. 48b. Un-named (5.10) Move over three or four feet to the right of the rounded arête and go straight up the face. 49. Educational Comer (5.3) Climb the big corner. Adventure-seekers may "skin the cat" over the overhang at the top. 50. Raid (5.7) Stay left of center’ working your way to a broken crack at the top. 51. La Mouche (5.5)* Wander more or less directly up the center of the face above the word "Dave." 52. Loose Lobster (5.4) Climb right of center past a tiny overhang and straight up to the top. 53. Outside Looking in (5.7) Start between "Tom" and "Love" and take a direct line up the nose that constitutes the right end of the "Dave Laubo" wall.


53a. Un-named (5.11) Climb the face, starting on the right. The arête on the right is OFF. 53b. Baseball (5.10) Start on the face and swing up and right onto the arête. Continue up the arête about 8 feet and then swing left back out on the face and continue to the top. About 6 feet above where you come back onto the face you can grab the baseball protrusion if you wish. When on or near the arête do not touch the wall on the right. 54. Chunky Chimbly (5.4) Climb the chimney/crack. Quite nice, actually, although a little dirty.

Moss Island Bob King Area 20

Bob King Area Many fine climbs exist in close company here. All are short and a cleverly placed rope will serve several routes.

55. Zippity Doo Dah (5.7) Climb a small left-facing corner 5' right of the previous route. Continue straight up to a small overhang and the friendly face above. There are plenty of holds but it is important to get the sequence right or you will end up making awkward hand moves. In the middle of the climb there is a reach to a ledge – the reach is much easier for tall climbers. 5.11 short climbers occasionally fall off the route trying to make the reach.


56. Supersonic Flake (5.8) Hard for the grade. About three feet to the right of ZDD, there is a jagged looking crack that looks like it could tear your hands up. Appearances may be correct. Make a correct start so your left hand ends up holding the left facing plate about 8 ft up and bring your right hand up to the small cut out. Then make appropriate moves so you can grab the ledge above. The moves will differ for short and tall climbers. As usual feet play a key role. After you gain the shelf the rest is easy. 57. Finger Frolic (5.9) Use ripples and tweekers to surmount the bulging face just right of the previous route. 58. Danny's Demise (5.7) A set of slightly better holds present themselves between Finger Frolic and The Beer Crack. 59. The Beer Crack or Slime Crack (5.8)** A good route, hard for the grade. Some might say very hard for the grade. Tradition states that beginners should be rewarded with a beer for making it up this tricky route. Make a boulder move with a high foot to grab the horizontal crack. Then make two skillful hand crack moves and continue up the diagonal crack left to the top. 60. Sit on It (A3) The only way anyone has ever gotten up this face is on aid. And poor aid at that. Holds just right of the Beer Crack and the seam above hold promise of a hard classic. Call Dave Graham. 61. The Bob King Traverse (V2) A boulder problem and one of the all-time great sandbags. It's just a simple traverse from Beer Crack to the start of Tumbleweed via the pleasant looking ledge. Safe and very frustrating. Plus high and low variations will put a stop to the quisling excuses of stumpies. Do it to someone you love. 62. Tumbleweed (5.4)* Climb the diagonal crack on the bulging wall. For a harder finish step left at the top to a thin crack.


63. A Little Hard One (5.10+) Climb two thin horizontal seams on the bulging arête just left of Dink's Delight without stepping into the chimney. A fingery squat lets you dyno for a small vertical slot and easier ground. Short people are better accommodated by the awkward positions required. 64. Dink's Delight (5.3) The chimney /crack system just right of the previous route. No surprises. 65. Mother’s Day Mayhem or The Photo-Magnetic Block (5.4)** Step-like blocks lead to some sloping ledges beneath a large overhanging block. Position yourself under the roof, reach over and smile for the camera before stepping right and up the slot above. A variation is to climb directly over the block with (5.7) or without (5.10) the bucket. 66. Dog Fish (5.10-) Climb directly up the gray face and overhang just right of the Mother's Day Block, and then surmount a second overhang to the top. 67. Duck Ramp (Class 3/4) A much-used scramble route. Care should be taken turning the final moves. 67a. Un-named (5.12+) Begin on the left end of the wall above the Duck Ramp. Climb up the overhanging horizontals. If this could be done right from the ground it would be the most often tried boulder problem at Little Falls. FA Ron? Done by Fred Abbuhl.

Moss Island Jeff Loves Eileen Area 23

The ‘Jeff Loves Eileen’ or ‘Power Tower” Area

This is a heavily used part of the cliff. Many fledgling leaders have placed their first protection here and uncounted legions have shared Jeff's love for Eileen (graffiti removed). A number of excellent boulder problems exist on the horizontally cut overhang to the left of Goat Corner. 67b. Mr. Smiley (V5/6) Mr. Smiley begins just left of Goat Corner. Undercling to the crimps on the face (harder if short). Launch to the ledge above, coming up the face for full effort. 68. Goat Corner (5.0) Climb the corner to a prominent ledge, then continue to the top.


69. Goat Crap or The Ladder (5.3)* Half way between Goat Corner and Goat Crack climb straight (more or less) up the middle of the face. A reassuring abundance of holds appear as needed on this often-soloed route. 70. Goat Crack (5.5G)* Follow the obvious right-leaning crack. The story goes that a local goat first ascended this route. Probably the most heavily traveled route in the Little Falls area! Can be climbed nude.

Nude descending a staircase, oops no that’s nude ascending a crack climb

70a. Un-named (5.6) Climb the face between Goat Crack and Jeff Loves Eileen, touching neither crack.


71. Jeff Loves Eileen (5.6G)** So have many other people. Climb the diagonal crack to the right and paralleling the previous route. Look for a tricky move near the top. An excellent route for a first lead, all you need is a set of nuts. 72. Marvin Gardens (5.3) Climb the flaring crack around the corner (right) from Jeff Loves Eileen. The cedar tree justifiably obscures this route. 73. Windex (5.10)*

Start in the center of the smooth-gray face below and right of the cedar tree. Work up the middle of the rippled face above by connecting hairline horizontals and a few true tweekers. There are some local rules about just what holds you can and can’t use on this climb.

74. The Arête (5.10+)* Climb the rounded arête just right of Windex by starting at the bottom of Hand Jive. Move up into the right-facing corner then work left across the slightly overhanging face to turn the arête finish just right of Windex. 75. Hand Jive (5.6) A better climb than it appears to be. Start at the bottom of a right-facing corner capped by a large block with an obvious crack on its left side. The slanting crack below is not as dirty as/it looks and the overhang requires an authentic hand jam or two. 76. Dancing Descent Route (Class 4) A set of easy ramps and short slabs lead to an exit behind the cedar tree. Easier to go up than to come down. 77. Hang Man (5.4) Climb some easy horizontal ledges just left of the big ceilings (Profile Rock) and then surmount the ceiling above by use of a conveniently placed tree. A variation is to make the climb easier by avoiding the roof either on the left (5.2) or the right (5.3).

Moss Island Profile Rock Area 26

Profile Rock aka 'Fred P. Jones' Area

Superb rock and finger-burning angles typify this portion of the cliff. Many bouldering problems exist along here. It is possible to go from route 78 to 83 without getting more than a few feet off the ground. There are bolt anchors at the top above routes 78 to 81. 78. The Clown (5.10)* Start directly below an outside corner above the widest peak of the roof. Climb straight up. Just below the final tier on the ceiling you will notice a three-finger slot that allows you to crank directly over the roof. Climb


straight up the nose above. A variation is The Buffoon (5.9) that turns the roof on the left. A second variation is The Fool (5.10-)* that turns the roof on the night. 79. The Joker (5.8)* Start just right of The Clown and traverse up and slightly right to good buckets in a horizontal crack. Traverse back left and link cracks on the upper face. Finish by staying just right of the terrace. A variation is Jump Start (5.8). Impress your friends by jumping for the first two-hand bucket at the right end of the overhang. Very muscular for a 5.8. 80. Spider Web (5.8)* Start directly under a left-slanting flared corner in a gently overhanging face. A few clever moves in the corner will take you to better holds and then steep climbing on the face above. Hard for the grade. 81. Roof Roof (5.9) Climb through the center of the dark-colored overhanging blocks just right of Spider Web. The face above is easier. A climb with good photographic possibilities.

Old postcard of Profile Rock

82. Bow Wow or HJG Overhang (5.9) Climb the overhang above the letters "HJG" then follow a left-facing corner. Move left and work your away to the top.


83. Prince of Darkness (5.10-)* Climb the HJG Overhang and traverse right to a small layback crack. Face climbing takes you up and then right to better flakes. Work up to and then around (or over) the roof above. 84. Fearsome Fern Flake (5.9)* 10' right of the HJG Overhang you will find a small bulge with a slight crack through its center. Climb this crack to thin face holds and flakes. Finish on the Prince of Darkness overhang. 85. One Over the Hill (5.12c)*** Previously known as “The Virgin," this intimidating track had stopped all efforts - allegedly including an attempt by Lynn Hill - until led by Martin Berzins in the spring of 1989. It is an unmissable line, rarely polluted by chalk above the halfway point. Surprisingly, face holds and a toe-hook were the key to unlocking this superior route. There are bolt anchors at the top of this route. 86. Flake Off (5.10) Climb the layback crack in the corner just right of One Over The Hill. The crack becomes very overhanging at the top. The layback crack can also be used to access the big horizontal. 87. Help on the Way or Fred P. Jones (5.10)*** Hard for the grade and very sustained. Much flight time has been logged working out the devious combination that unlocks both the upper and lower sections. Start at a slot 10' right of the Flake Off corner. Tricky moves lead up and slightly left to a good horizontal crack. Traverse back right, and then follow progressively disheartening holds up and left. Finish by pumping good holds on the overhanging face above. As a variation easier access to the upper wall can be gained by climbing Flake Off to reach the horizontal crack. There is an old 2 bolt anchor at the top with a third newer bolt to be used as backup. 87a. Freddie Krugar (5.11) Begin as for Fred P, but after the horizontal crack angle to the left side of the face above, along the water streak. Either go straight up to the top or cross through and finish in the center of the face. 87b. Freddie Krugar Direct Start (5.12). Start 5 feet left of Fred P. Accomplish a hard start off bad feet and hands to crimps. Finish above the horizontal on Freddie Krugar.


87c. Fred Flintstone (5.11) Above the horizontal crack climb the face between Fred P and Freddie Krugar. 88. Tweedle Dee (5.7) Start at an obvious crack just right of the words "Fred P. Jones." Climb to the ledge above, then scramble the right-facing corner to the top. A variation is Tweedle Dum (5.8). Use a broken flake 7' right of Tweedle Dee to reach the ledge. A second variation is Humpty Dumpty (5.8). Starting at the ledge climb through the overhang on the right to reach the top. A third variation is All The King's Men (5.4). Layback a left-slanting crack 10' right of Tweedle Dum to reach the ledge. 89. All In The Family (5.3) From the start of the previous route, climb the right-slanting crack to the top. 90. Purple Witch (5 .5) Start 13' right of All The King's Men. Surmount a bulge on good holds, and then climb more or less directly to the top. 90. Un-named (5 .8) Start directly behind the bush and do muscular moves to under the roof. Go as high as you can before swinging leg right onto the sloping face. Continue to the top. 91. Tree Route (Class 4) Scramble broken rock, ledges and a few trees to reach the top. NOT RECOMMENDED AS A DESCENT ROUTE.

Moss Island East End Routes 30

East End Routes


There has been some vegetation trimming in this area which has opened up some nice easier climbs. 92. Gypsy (5 .2) Climb an inside left-facing corner just left of Dance on a Volcano. 93. Dance on a Volcano (5.0)* A fine beginner's climb; climb the arête at the left end of the face. 94. Un-named (5.8) About the center of the cliff locate the big hole in the cliff about 15 ft up. Start below the hole and move up until you are standing in it. Then move up onto the face above without using the big ledge on the left. This can be done by placing the right foot up on the face and then rocking over onto it or by placing the left foot up first and rocking onto it. Going left is easiest. Top ropes for this climb and the next two can be set using the trees above the cliff. 95. Dark Star (5.8) Maybe six feet right of the previous route face climb directly to the small overhang above. Surmount this obstacle and make delicate moves to the top. 96. Muntjack (5.8) Start six feet right of the previous route and go directly up. 91. Dripping Wonder (5.2) When you have done every other route on Moss Island climb this broken and almost-always-soggy corner. 98. The Thinker (5.7) Climb the crack formed by a detached block just right of Dripping Wonder, then hop up the face to the top. There is a bolt anchor at the top for this climb and 99 and 99a. 99. The Dreamer (5.10)* Climb the dark gray face just right of The Thinker (without using the crack). Rapid eye movement required. There are a couple of 5.11 moves on this climb, despite its historical rating. 99a. The Dreamer is too Hard (5.8) Start about 4 ft right of Dreamer and go up the right side of the face.


100. Muff Diver (5 2) Climb a broken crack/chimney behind a tree 10' right of The Dreamer. 101. Black Beauty (5.7)* To the right of the previous route, work up a left slanting crack about 15 feet, then face climb up a second, thinner crack finding a pinch hold that will get you to the top of this enjoyable route. The top move is the crux. Can be led, protection is tricky in the top half. There is a bolt anchor at the top of this climb that also serves 102 if some long slings are used. 101. Un-named (5.8) to (5.9) Climb the face between Black Beauty and the rounded arête on the right. Do not use any Black Beauty holds and use the arête as little as possible; the less you use the arête the harder the route. This route is drawn in the photo above. Can use one of the bolts for Black Beauty and a cam and nut about 1 inch size to set up top rope. 102. Moon Walk or White Courage and Brown Spots (5.9)* Start around the corner from Black Beauty. Climb the concave face below some difficult overhangs that are turned on the right. Face moves lead to the top. At the bottom it is easiest to start on the arête on the left side. Starting a few feet to the right on the face is much more difficult. Assuming the easier start the lower part of the route is 5.8. The final moves at the top are 5.10. I guess that averages to 5.9 (sort of a Gunks rating). Use bolt anchor for Black Beauty and a couple of 15 ft pieces of webbing to set up.

A Climbing Guide to Moss Island -...

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