Bhaktapur, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal

CULTURE HERITAGE MANAGEMENT AND TOURISM: Models for Co-operation among Stakeholders

A Case Study on

Bhaktapur Kathmandu Valley

Nepal

Submitted to

UNESCO Office of the Regional Advisor for Culture

in Asia and the Pacific

By

The Local Case Study Team

Bhaktapur April 2000

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Harmonious hobnobs between heritage and tourism:Harmonious hobnobs between heritage and tourism:

The success story of BhaktapurThe success story of Bhaktapur

Bhaktapur has been a center of admiration since ancient times. The first to explore and discover its cultural

gem were the pilgrims who—from across the snow-capped Himalayas in the north and thick tropical jungles in the

south—came in, admired the sacred land, and made its unrivaled natural as well as cultural splendors known to the

world. Retracing their footsteps came in the modern travelers who, centuries later, rediscovered the mystical blend

of mountains, monuments and men, and made them more known to the present-day world. Time has changed a lot,

yet Bhaktapur seems to be where it was centuries ago. Consequently, the ambience here is such that it transports

visitors back by centuries the moments they step into its territory. Obviously for its much-envied treasury in art and

culture, Bhaktapur—the Capital City of Nepal from the 12th to the 15th century—is a World Heritage Site since

1979 AD.

Bhaktapur is small in size, but the socio-cultural values that it has carried since time immemorial is no less

captivating. Located at the height of 1,401meters above sea level, the historic city spreads over an area of 6.88 sq

km. It gives shelter to over 80,000 inhabitants. Most of the people in and around Bhaktapur are Newars—the native

inhabitants of the Kathmandu Valley, who are well acclaimed throughout the world for their generations-old

traditions of art, culture and craftsmanship. Their main occupation is agriculture, with handicrafts, trade and service

being the main or side-jobs for many of them.

Bhaktapur has its artistic gem in its Durbar Square, the seat of royalty till 1769 AD. The brick-paved

palatial enclave houses, among others, the palaces of former Malla rulers, variously shaped and sized Hindu

temples, Buddhist monasteries, community buildings and public rest houses. It is this historic place around which

revolves Bhaktapur's centuries-old traditions of art, culture and craftsmanship.

NEPAL'S CLEANEST AND BEST-PRESERVED HERITAGE CITY

With the fruitful cooperation rendered by the local citizens as well as visitors, Bhaktapur Municipality has

managed to make Bhaktapur the best-preserved and least polluted city in the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal. Thanks

again to their fruitful support, Bhaktapur is also the cleanest city, not only from the point of view of natural

environment but also from that of administrative purity and financial transparency. Be they the Nepalis or foreign

tourists, all visitors alike find, feel and explore Bhaktapur in its true, unspoilt authencity. And it is this ancient

township where they do experience the rare combination of purity in nature with the purity of minds. Calm, quiet

and serene, Bhaktapur authentically represents what a clean and corruption-free heritage city should look like.

Obviously in recognition of its sincere and serious preservation efforts, UNESCO has awarded the ‘First

Honourable Mention from Asia for 1998-99’ to Bhaktapur last July in La Paz, Bolivia. And for our decades-long

tradition of struggles for a corruption-free administration, the Germany-based Transparency International has also

honored us with the ‘Island of Integrity’. In this connection, Transparency International had extended a special

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invitation to the Bhaktapur Mayor, Mr. Prem Suwal to grace and address its international anti-corruption

conference, which was held in Durban, South Africa last October.

As the records show, our drive for conservation and a corruption-free society dates back to the early 1960s.

The personality that spearheaded the painstaking struggle is Mr. Narayan Man Bijukchhen, who, as a mere ward

member at that time, had taken a bold resolution and leadership to make Bhaktapur an example in cleanliness and

conservation. Fortunately, we now have Mr. Bijukchhen as the central chairman of Nepal Workers & Peasants

Party (NWPP). For your kind information, almost all members in the current Municipal Board of Bhaktapur belong

to this party, which in recent past has set an another example in Nepal by becoming the only political party to make

all its financial dealings open to the general public.

Like nowhere else in Nepal, all of Bhaktapur Municipality’s undertakings are transparent and made public.

In the entire country, Bhaktapur alone is where even the lowest strata of society take part in extensive discussions

before the municipality endorses any of its major undertakings of public interest. Be it a budgetary question or a

major policy issue, they are adopted only after the majority of the local populace approved them. Moreover, in

order to discourage evil practices, the municipality has stopped awarding construction bids to commercial

contractors. Unprofessional as it may appear to many “professional minds”, the local body carries out all those

undertakings on its own instead. For this, the Germany-based Transparency International in recent times has

exalted Bhaktapur Municipality with the title of “Island of Integrity”. Obviously in an open recognition to the

exemplary role played by the municipality and its citizens, Transparency International extended a special invitation

to our mayor to grace and address the 9th International Anti-Corruption Conference held in Durban, South Africa

from October 10 to 15, 1999. We hold this nine-day Bhaktapur conference is also a great honor that UNESCO

bestowed upon this heritage city and its 80,000 proud citizens for its preservation efforts.

AROUND THE HERITAGE CITY

In addition to its unparalleled riches in art, culture and craftsmanship, Bhaktapur offers some other

temptations, which visitors find simply difficult to resist. One among them is the presence of diverse museums in

its territory. May seem incredible for many, but Bhaktapur—the smallest municipality in terms of the area—houses

three museums, each displaying a dazzling treasury of ancient and medieval art, culture and craftsmanship.

While in Bhaktapur's municipal areas, one thing that visitors simply cannot help admire is its serene

surrounding, most of them falling within the district of Bhaktapur. The world famous Changu Narayan temple,

the oldest pagoda temple in Nepal and a World Heritage site, is only six km to the north of Bhaktapur. The temple

premises also boast of housing a number of masterpieces in stone. Above all, the enclosed area is also home to the

Kathmandu Valley's oldest stone inscription, which dates back to 464 AD.

Nagarkot—one of Nepal's most favored tourist destinations—is some 17 km to the northeast, from where

one can savor the breathtaking 360-degree views all around including the thrilling Himalayan panorama to the

north. In a clear day, visitors can also have a mesmerizing glimpse of Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) (8,850 m), the

highest point on earth and a World Heritage site, from here.

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The Madhyapur-Thimi area—a part of Bhaktapur District—is another destination that travelers just

should not miss during their stay in Bhaktapur. Located six km to the west of Bhaktapur, this part of the district is

well acclaimed throughout the world for its pottery, papier-mache masks, vegetable -growing green areas, and

above all, the authentic Newar art, culture and creativity pursued by the local people.

The next place that easily beckons travelers to its bosom is Surya Vinayak. Situated off the Arniko

Highway to the south of Bhaktapur, the place offers captivating views of Bhaktapur, the lush green Mahabharat belt

surrounding the Valley, and all above them, the majestic Himalayan massif. The area has a shrine dedicated to the

elephant-headed Lord Vinayak (Ganesh), who is believed to get the first rays of Surya (Sun) every day, hence the

name of the place is Surya Vinayak. The shrine and its green surrounding area are popular places where crowds of

picnickers and devotees can be seen especially on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Many of the Hindus even from faraway

places flock the place to get their religious and social rituals (marriage, for example) solemnized here.

Nala, a part of the neighboring Kabhre district, is equally popular among foreigners and the Nepalese alike.

Located some seven km to the east of Bhaktapur, the area is praised for its unspoilt Newar settlements, their culture

and the ornate shrines of Goddess Bhagavati, the symbol of supreme female force, and Karunamaya, the God of

Compassion.

SECTION I: HERITAGE

Because of its lively and well-preserved art and culture, Bhaktapur is often referred to as the “Living

Heritage”. In the centuries-old traditions of art, culture and craftsmanship, it is second to none. Even nearly one

and a half millennium after the first foreign traveler, a Chinese pilgrim, crossed the Himalayas to admire the artistic

splendors of the “Nepal Valley” (Kathmandu Valley), Bhaktapur has not lost all its glory. The ever-changing time,

weather and natural calamities of course might have brought about both qualitative and quantitative changes in the

cityscape, still the ambience in Bhaktapur seems to be what it was like centuries ago.

The glories of Bhaktapur lie in its unrivaled art and culture. As is known to the whole world, the heritage

city is home to numerous artistic masterpieces in wood, metal, terracotta and stone. The specimens of different

aspects of art here are so exquisite that they baffle even the gray-haired connoisseurs. Majestic palaces, single- or

multi-tiered pagoda temples, Buddhist bahas and bahis (courtyards), variously shaped and sized ponds, artistically

carved community stone spouts, roadside rest houses, artistically designed private houses, brick- or stone-paved

squares, and quaint streets—all are there to mesmerize the passers-by. Be it the world-renowned 55-Windows

Palace of the Malla monarchs, or the colossal five-tiered Nyataponla temple (1702 AD), or the gilded Golden Gate

(1758 AD), or the Peacock Window (15th century)—each appears more wondrous than the other. And adding to the

city's artistic grandeur there are masterpieces, which include Nepal's largest stone Shiva Lingum (at Hanumanghat),

terracotta windows (at Tuchhimala), variously shaped and sized ponds and intricately carved public water conduits.

Atop all, one thing they all invariably have in common is that they all symbolize the Golden Age of Nepalese art

and architecture.

Another key feature that has kept Bhaktapur culturally vibrant is its colorful festivals. They celebrate the

end or beginning of seasons, commemorate a certain historical or religious event, or eulogize a god or a goddess.

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While observing such a great variety of festivals, one aspect that many of them have in common is their observance

by both Hindus and Buddhists. Obviously complying with the age-old Nepalese traditions of socio-cultural

harmony and mutual respect, festivals of Hindu origin have changed under Buddhist influence and vice versa.

Leave alone the festivals, even the way of life of one religious or social community has changed under the

influence of the other. And it is this constant and harmonious hobnobbing among divergent communities that has

made the city truly a colorful cultural mosaic.

Another peculiarity of Bhaktapur's festivals is their strict compliance with the lunar calendar. Therefore, all

of them—with only one exception—revolve around full or new moons.

The only festival that is celebrated as per the official solar calendar in Nepal is Biska Jatra. Celebrated for

nine consecutive days in Bhaktapur, the former capital city, the festival bids farewell to the old year and greet a

new one. The festival sees the climax with the erection and pulling down of Yosin, the ceremonial pole, at the city

outskirts named after that very pole, Yosin-khyo (khyo in Nepalbhasa or Newari means an open space).

The retention of festivals in Bhaktapur owes much to its slow pace towards urbanization and the so-called

modernity. Its relative seclusion from the “too-urban-Kathmandu” has also helped it retain its cultural glory. Had it

braced urbanization in the same rapidity as its two “rival” neighbors—Kathmandu and Lalitpur—did, many of

those popular festivals would already have vanished in the thickness of concrete jungles. Let us take the well-

acclaimed Nava Durga dance for example. This tantrically-inspired dance eulogizes Asta Matrika, the eight mother

goddesses, who supposedly sit around the city's eight corners to give a watchful guard on it. It is staged all

throughout the old city area in turn, which goes from January till June, closely following the lunar calendar. The

places and the lunar dates of its staging are specific with no rooms of alteration. So, had the cityscape changed

giving way to whatsoever the reason, the Nava Durga dance too would have succumbed to the so-called modernity

the same way as many of similar dances did in neighboring Kathmandu and Lalitpur. Similarly many other

festivals, especially those which are observed outdoors, would also have gone down the history lanes. Biska Jatra

(chariot festival; April), Sa-paru or the ‘Festival of Cows’ (a full-moon day when all bereaved families go around a

prescribed route in the city; July-August), Gatha-muga (a new-moon festival when straw-made effigies of a

malevolent demon are dragged out to and burnt down at city outskirts; August) and Nasaa-bwojyaa (a full-moon

festival when the first grains of cereals are displayed and offered to divinities; takes place immediately after the

harvesting season in October) are some of the major festivals which could not have resisted the onslaught of

urbanization. But thanks to people’s obsession towards their age-old tradition and less influence of the so-called

modernity, those festivals are still observed with the same old fervor and flavor, making their Bhaktapur truly a

“Living Heritage”.

Another glory that the slow pace of “modernity” has helped retain in Bhaktapur is its lively tradition of

craftsmanship. Pottery, woodcarving, textile and papier-mâché masks are some of them, which add to the city's

unrivaled cultural glory. Still reminiscent of the glory that the local Newar craftsmen have mastered over centuries,

their craftsmanship in the changed context has become an unavoidable attraction for foreign tourists and the

Nepalese alike. While talking about the creativity of the people of Bhaktapur, one thing that one hardly forgets to

mention is Juju-dhau, the very special type of yogurt that this ancient city has been so famous for. Because of its

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superb taste as well as the medicinal value, yogurt of Bhaktapur is termed as Juju-dhau, an aptly chosen accolade,

which literally means the “King of all yogurt varieties”.

Another factor that keeps visitors spellbound in Bhaktapur is its unique lifestyle. Farmer women draped in

their home-spun black sarees, traditionally-attired farmers with a set of bamboo-baskets dangling down their

shoulders, religious women carrying a metal (or bamboo) plate containing a variety of offerings for divinities in the

neighborhood, or bands of people going around playing the sets of traditional drums and cymbals—all these portray

a picture which appears totally different from what visitors see half an hour before in neighboring Kathmandu. Like

the atmosphere in and around the city, life in Bhaktapur remains rustic and unspoilt just like it was centuries before.

Again it is the seclusion that has helped this ancient city live up to its old glory.

As revealed by a recent survey, there are 345 significant monuments in Bhaktapur, of which 237 belong to

the Hindu pantheon and the remaining 108 to Buddhism. Yet, what astonishes strangers here is the age-old

harmony and mutual trust among the two diverse-looking religious communities. And adding to the city's unrivaled

heritage, there are three museums, all within Bhaktapur's World Heritage zone. The oldest of the three, National

Art Gallery at the Durbar Square is best known for its rich collection of Newari scroll paubha paintings. It also

exhibits many masterpieces in stone, metal and paper that include an ancient book on various breeds of horses and

remedies for their ailments. The book, which contains many illustrations, folds out to over three meters. Another

attraction here is an ancient paubha painting that shows Lord Indra, king of all gods and goddesses, infested with

female genital organs all over his body, which he got as a punishment for seducing the wife of a learned saint. The

stone image of Harihar here is no ness mesmerizing. Once presiding over the colossal La-pan-dega, which was

razed to grounds by the 1934-earthquake, the image depicts the two of Hinduism's supreme Lords, Vishnu and

Shiva, in their combined form as Harihar.

Bhaktapur's two other museums are located at the Dattatreya Square, the old seat of royalty when

Bhaktapur was the heart of the Greater Malla Kingdom from the 12th to 15th century. The Woodcarving Museum is

housed in the 15th century Pujari Math, a priestly palace which itself is no less impressive than an open museum.

With its intricately carved wooden windows and doors, the building still stands witness to the artistic excellence of

Newars over five centuries ago. And it is on the eastern façade of this structure where one can find the world-

famous Peacock Window. This museum exhibits various wooden objects dating back to Lichhavi (400-1200) and

Malla (1200-1769) periods.

The Brass and Bronze Museum, housed in the historic Chikanpa Math opposite Pujari Math, displays a

wide variety of metal objects. Housed in an equally historic Math, the museum exhibits such ceremonial and

household items as Kalash (ritual water vessel), sukunda, twa-deva and yekha-dalu (varieties of traditional oil-fed

lamps), ordinary water vessels and jars, utensils, spittoons and so on. (Figure 1)

SERVICES

The available services in the city of Bhaktapur for the tourists as per the specific headings are given below:

1. ACCOMMODATION: The city does not have a starred hotel, nor does it have any such deluxe property.

As shown by recent surveys, the municipal territory of Bhaktapur presently has 11 tourist standard hotels

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and guesthouses. With 130 rooms and 231 beds, and the tourists staying here for 2 (two) nights in average,

Bhaktapur can accommodate over 22,000 visitors per annum. If the hotels in the city outskirts—excluding

those in the nearby popular hill resort of Nagarkot—are to be added, then the capacity soars up to over

30,000. The numbers of rooms and beds available in Nagarkot, 17 km to the northeast of Bhaktapur

Municipality, alone are 426 and 818 respectively. And much to the joy of visitors, Nagarkot can cater to all

kinds of travelers, from high-profile celebrities to budget tourists in its hotels ranging from “huts” to deluxe

five-star hotels. And the varieties of service, culinary delights for example, here are such that they suit all

kinds of wallets and palates.

2. FOOD OUTLETS: Thirteen restaurants (8 cafes and 5 foodstalls) cater to visitors in Bhaktapur. With 495

seats, they serve local as well as Continental, Indian and Chines cuisine. The two things that the most of

them have in common are the inclusion of local food varieties in their menu and their ambience. No matter

how big or small they are, or what do they serve, the entrepreneurs are aware to give traditional touch to

the total ambience of their restaurant.

3. SOUVENIR AND CRAFT RETAILERS: As shown by surveys, there are altogether 225 souvenir shops

within the municipal territory of Bhaktapur, selling a wide variety of locally made handicrafts. The locally

made handicraft items sold in those shops include terracotta goods, woodcarving, textile, metal statues and

scroll paintings. The steady growth in tourism has helped not only those souvenir shops but also many

behind them, i. e. the city's craftsmen.

4. MISCELLANEOUS: Besides the hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops, there are altogether 5 parking

lots in and around Bhaktapur. In addition, there are 7 tourist toilets , 2 hospitals, 3 commercial banks, 6

money exchange counters and one post office . (Figure 2)

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SECTION II: TOURISM SCENARIO IN BHAKTAPUR

Bhaktapur Municipality began levying 'service charge' from non-SAARC nationals in 1993 in an effort to

raise funds for its conservation-oriented works. The charge at the initial stage was Rs. 50.00 (US$ 1.00). As the

time itself showed afterwards, the new method proved to be an effective tool for both conservation and the city's

tourism trade. The new source of income enabled the local body to undertake many conservation works, and

conserved monuments broadened ways for tourists. And atop them, the thickening flow of tourists has opened new

vistas of economic activities for the local citizens.

Compelled by the urgency to restore so many heritage sites, Bhaktapur Municipality raised the toll to Rs.

300.00 (US$ 5.00) in 1995. Besides, the municipality also started levying the toll, though only Rs. 30 per head, on

the SAARC nationals as well from January 1, 1998 onwards. The new provision has helped the local body have

records of the SAARC tourists besides ensuring their contribution to Bhaktapur's conservation works.

1998 1999 Month 1997* SAARC Non-SAARC

TOTAL SAARC Non-SAARC

TOTAL

1 January 7,361 2,501 8,682 11,183 4,056 9,174 13,230

2 February 9,484 3,129 10,151 13,280 3,114 11,879 14,993

3 March 12,674 2,525 12,510 15,035 3,252 14,327 17,579

4 April 10,573 4,346 13,019 17,365 4,577 14,700 19,277

5 May 5,465 9,292 6,575 15,867 9,097 7,789 16,886

6 June 2,462 7,725 2,959 10,684 6,482 3,475 9,957

7 July 4,660 4,056 4,623 8,679 3,164 5,114 8,278

8 August 9,894 2,526 11,272 13,798 2,319 11,165 13,484

9 September 7,205 3,117 8,492 11,609 3,231 9,452 12,683

10 October 18,222 8,152 20,883 29,035 6,138 25,070 31,208

11 November 17,004 4,114 21,908 26,022 6,343 22,357 28,700

12 December 9,467 4,925 10,620 15,545 5,243 11,170 16,413

Total 114,473 56,408 131,694 188,102 57,016 145,672 202,688

Data show that most of the foreign tourists, who come in Bhaktapur, are based in Kathmandu. Of the total,

77% spend only a couple of hours in this city. With or without guides, they come here simply to see around the

places of tourist interest. Invariably a considerable number of them liked to blend sightseeing with shopping, but

those who come here solely for shopping make up a mere 9%.

Of the total, 6.5% foreign tourists have been found to be staying in Bhaktapur overnight. Similarly, the

percentage that preferred to stay here for one week is 8% and those staying in this heritage city for more than one

week makes 8.5%. The huge number of tourists preferring to stay in Kathmandu is attributed mainly to Bhaktapur's

infancy in infrastructure. There are no big, deluxe hotels, nor are there any big restaurants and shopping complexes;

it is why even the tourists making overnight stays in Bhaktapur are either from the 'budget class' or those extremely

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obsessed with Bhaktapur's long artistic and cultural charms. Of late some tourists have been found, who preferred

to stay here simply to avoid hustles and bustles combined with intolerable pollution and population in the

neighboring metropolitan areas.

As for the purpose of visit, 81% of the total came in solely for sightseeing (cultural tourism). The

percentage of those who come for recreation, shopping, pilgrimage, visiting friends and business make up 30, 9,

2.5, 2 and 1.5 per cent respectively. Moreover, tour operators arranged itineraries of 68% of them, whereas 25.5%

were self-arranged and the remaining 5% were helped by friends or relatives.

The data revealed that 63% of the visitors learned about Bhaktapur through Internet or printed guide books.

Of the total, 25.5% knew about the place through friends and relatives, and 5.5% learnt about it through printed

publicity materials including specialized heritage books and literature. And once they get here, 49.5% prefer to

spend here between US$ 5 and 20, whereas 27.5% spend between US$ 20 and 50. Of them, only 15.5% like to

spend more than US$ 50, and the percentage that prefer to spend less than US$ 5 is 5.5.

So far as the number of domestic tourists is concerned, we are yet to get it, i. e. the exact number of

domestic visitors. Since there is no effective mechanism to keep their record, determining their number is still a hell

of a job.

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SECTION III: ECONOMIC INDICATORS

The total income of Bhaktapur Municipality for the fiscal year 1998-99 is US$ 1,483,365. The amounts

were US$ 1,352, 535 and US$ 1,106,889 in 1997-98 and 1996-97 respectively.

Bhaktapur Municipality Estimated Income Budget

Fiscal Year Estimated Income Actual Income Difference 1995/96 (053/54) 65142400.00 57799037.05 7343362.95

Source of Budget in Percentage

Items Estimated Income Actual Income Difference National Budget 15000000.00 16517272.27 -1517272.27 Local Tax 1425000.00 1054760.45 370239.55 Tourism 30155000.00 32349945.36 -2194945.36

Bhaktapur Municipality Estimated Expenditure Budget

Fiscal Year Estimated Exp. Actual Exp. Difference 1995/96 (053/54) 77072918.68 39364301.44 37708617.24

Of the total, the municipality expended directly or indirectly US$ 520,329 in 1996-97, US$ 772,321 in

1997-98 and US$ 1,117,760 in 1998-99 on heritage conservation.

Total Municipality Budget of Year 2053-054 (75268510.35)

S.No. Particular Amount 1 National Budget 153416.08 2 Local Budget 25064395.29 3 Tourism Budget 32734641.48 4 Miscellaneous 17316057.52

Total 75268510.37

Total Municipality Expenditure of 2055-056 (1998-1999)

S.No. Particular Amount 1 Heritage Conservation Rs. 2,35,60,844.75 2 Infrastructure Rs. 2,13,18,764.36 3 Garbage Collection Rs. 1,25,66,427.00 4 Salaries Rs. 1,85,61,671.63

Total Rs. 7,60,07,707.74 Note: 1 US$=Rs. 68.00 $1,117,760.41

S.No. Particular Amount

1 Heritage Conservation 23560844.75 2 Infrastructure 21318764.36 3 Garbage Collection 12566427.00 4 Salaries 18561671.63

Total 76007707.74

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Sources Of Budget

S.No. Particulars Amount Percentage

1 UNESCO WHC US $ 20,000 66.67% 2 Bhaktapur Municipality US $ 10,000 33.33%

Total US $ 30,000

Expenditure of DEMBPMZ

S.No Particular Amount In Rs. Percentage 1 UNESCO(WHC) 1353425.00 57.17% 2 Bhaktaputr Municipality 1014020.50 42.83%

Total 2367445.50 100%

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SECTION IV: MANAGEMENT OF HERITAGE

Bluntly saying, Bhaktapur’s rich cultural heritage revolves around its monuments and men. The city's

concern towards the management of heritage (directed towards their long-term conservation) dates back to the very

time when those monuments were created. More often, concerns about conservation-minded management crawled

in even before the construction of monuments. Instances are there when the innovator of certain monument or ritual

allocated a certain amount of land even before starting the construction work, rightly anticipating the funds that

would be required for future upkeep of their creations. Still there are innumerable private Guthis, which, with their

permanent source of income coming through crops from those allocated lands, take constant care of the monuments

directly under them. It is true that the nationalization of many such Guthis in the 1960s and 70s have cast black

spells over many monuments, the inception of Guthi systems had sprouted out of the concerns pertaining to the

conservation of art and culture.

The latest series of conservation works, especially those initiated by Bhaktapur Municipality, could not

take shape till 1995, the year when the local body began levying 'service charge' on all non-SAARC visitors. The

'charge' at that time was Rs. 50 (less than US$ 1) per person, which was exempted to visitors coming from the

SAARAC nations—Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, the Maldives, Pakistan and Sri Lanka. Before that, the sources of

income of the municipality are so scanty that they were not enough even to feed the staff, leave alone the efforts

towards conserving the heritage.

Levying of the 'service charge' on all non-SAARC visitors by Bhaktapur Municipality was, and still is,

aimed at raising funds for conservation works. Many people in and around Bhaktapur still remember the hurdles

put forth then by some people, who ranged from misled individuals to even many topmost governmental

bureaucrats. The greatest shock, however, came from a section of tourism trade itself. Obviously propelled by

individualistic outlook, some of the tourism entrepreneurs openly came out against the 'service charge', threatening

that the move by the municipality would have adverse effect on Bhaktapur’s tourism. A hot debate ensued then on

‘What specific contribution that individual tourism entrepreneurs or their umbrella groupings have made for the

upkeep of heritage to the date, whereas it is they who make fortunes by selling those very heritage?’ Was it not like

that you want some others to take care of the geese that lay ‘golden eggs’ for you? Anyway, they kept mum after

they saw the way Bhaktapur Municipality utilized the proceeds in conservation works and tourism, and made all its

undertakings and transaction open to the public.

Keeping in mind the enormity of conservation in a heritage city like Bhaktapur, Bhaktapur Municipality—

an autonomous public body to an extent—of late has created a separate 'Heritage Unit' within the municipality's

administrative structure. Solely consisted of expert technical personnel, the unit is entrusted with looking after

Bhaktapur's heritage sites. As per the mandate given to it, the unit helps the municipality formulate policies and

strategies, and overlooks and supervises their implementation. The unit works directly under the Municipal Board,

keeping close coordination with the municipality's Committee on Educational and Cultural Affairs.

Besides Bhaktapur Municipality, there are other offices which, under existing laws, are supposed to take

care of Bhaktapur's heritage sites.

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Guthi Sansthan is one of the many "caretaker offices" in Bhaktapur. The Durbar Herchah Adda (literally

the Caretaker Office of Monuments, a district branch of the Department of Archeology/HMG) is another office,

which has been set up for the almost same kind of job. But unfortunately, they are there simply to substantiate the

oft-repeated saying: “Everybody's business is nobody’s”. The main hindrance in this regard is attributed to

bureaucratic echelon as well as the vague demarcation of responsibilities among them. Committed both in words

and works, Bhaktapur Municipality time and again has gone through oddities created by such an ambiguity. More

often, other "caretakers" jump in to stop the elected body from undertaking its projects, citing the encroachment of

their authority by the municipality. “Do not do on your own, and do not let others do, either.” It is what many in

Bhaktapur remember when they see such anomalies.

(Figure. 9, Organogram chart)

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SECTION V. HERITAGE PROJECT CHART

V.1 Chart of completed Heritage Projects Description of Major Completed

Project Implementation

Period Total Budget

US$ Funding Sources

Sidhapokhari (Pond) 1997 51348.53 BMP Chuping Ghat 1997 9722.43 BMP Barahi Pith Sattal 1997 14931.84 BMP Five storey Temple (Nyatapola) 1997 55165.30 BMP Religious Store (Bhandar Ghar) 1998 70861.38 BMP Documentation & Enhanced Management of Bhaktapur Protected Monument Zone

1998-1999 30000.00 BMP & UNESCO (WHC)

Chatubramha Mahabihar 1999 61211.07 BMP Religious workshop for mask making 1999 21688.51 BMP Yakchheshowar Mahadev Temple 1999 37208.36 BMP Mangal Tirtha Sattal 1999 17622.56 C/O UNESCO,

Swedish INGO Teema

Street or Public Square Pavement 1997-1999 297376.76 BMP

V.2 Chart of Heritage Projects in the Pipeline Description of Project In The

Pipe Line Implementation

Period Total

Budget In US$

Amount Secured to date In US$

How will the remaining balance

be financed? Pahanchhen (Lomo Pati Sattal)

2000 53000.00 53000.00

Taleju Temple 2000 92000.00 92000.00 Private Heritage Houses (24 Nos.) 2000 330000.00 330000.00 Shiva Mandir 2001 20000.00 - - - Donor being bought Hongwa Pati & Sattal 2001 1500.00 15000.00* Hanumante Gaht Rehabilitation 2001 84000.00 50000.00* Sources need to be

identified Private Heritage Houses (28 Nos.) 2001 50000.00 45000.00* 5000 from central

Government’s subsidy Jagati, Maheswori & Pasikhel Sattals

2001 70000.00 70000.00*

Narsingh Mandir 2002 50000.00 50000.00* Jaganath Mandir Area As Archeological Garden

2002 60000.00 60000.00*

Taha Dega Reconstruction 2002 42500.00 42500.00* Kamal Pokhari Renovation 2002 40000.00 40000.00* Private Heritage Houses (40 Nos.) 2002 80000.00 72000.00* 8000 from other

sources Chyamasingh Area-Archaeological Investigation & Excavation

2002 50000.00 50000.00*

Archaeologocal Investigation & Excavation of 99-Chowk

2002 20000.00 20000.00*

* Planned to be invested in the conservation of the monuments and heritage houses.

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SECTION VI VI.1. CONDITION OF HERITAGE

1. Innovative cultural heritage of Bhaktapur are its majestic palaces, single- or multi-tiered pagoda temples,

Buddhist bahas and bahis (courtyards), variously shaped and sized ponds, artistically carved community stone

spouts, roadside rest houses, artistically designed private houses, brick- or stone-paved squares, and quaint streets.

They are in different states of condition. Some are still in sound state, while the others are in either repairable or

totally wretched condition.

Bhaktapur has different types of public and private buildings. The most important buildings in private

ownership with intact Malla character in the city number 73, whereas 404 other buildings are important because of

the least damage made in the original traditional character. Besides, the city has 1,214 moderate buildings, and

3,379 buildings in the city are simple and less important but definitely urban character from both the heritage and

historic points of view.

Inventory Of Buildings In PMZ

B: List of Buildings Built In Different Period

S.No. Description T.Number Construction Yer. 1 Malla Period Structure 232 1482-1768 A.D.

2 Shah Period Structure 117 1768-1846 A.D.

3 Rana Period Structure 267 1846-1951 A.D.

4 Post-Rana Period Structure 282 After 1952 A.D.

Total 898

2. Most of the heritage buildings (345) in Bhaktapur belong to the public. They are used for varied

religious and social purposes. At times, they become shrines for worship or spots displaying divine images to the

public. More often they are also used as venues for clan or community feasts or similar other social gatherings.

Some of them are priestly palaces, Maths in the local tongue. A few of them, especially those at the Dattatreya

Square, have been converted into museums. While the Pujari Math houses the country's only Woodcarving

Museum, the Chikanpa Math opposite it is home to Nepal's another unique museum, the Brass and Bronze

Museum. Unfortunately there are still many such community and Math buildings, which are yet to be utilized for

public interest. Owing to various reasons, especially their usurpation by individuals and feuds among clans and clan

members, many of them either have been privatized or require rescue.

A number of Bhaktapur's community buildings have been used as tourist restaurants, whereas a great

number of Dyochhens (buildings housing religious shrines) and Agamchhens (residence of clan-deity), Bahis and

Biharas (enclosed Buddhist shrines with courtyards within) and Sattas (public buildings for feasts or social

gatherings) are still owned and taken care of by the concerned communities or clans. Apart from them, there are

1,791 attractively designed and artistically decorated private houses, which add to the city's cultural grace and

grandeur. Used for residential purposes, these individual houses dot Bhaktapur's cultural cityscape, and it is this

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sector, which is constantly in need of encouragement and incentives from the concerned governmental agencies for

the proper and ever-lasting preservation of Bhaktapur's heritage.

3. Another key component of Bhaktapur's rich heritage is its colorful festivals. Of course many of the city's

festivals, like the massive monuments in the neighborhood, have vanished over centuries, there are still many

which keep Bhaktapur vibrant with their color and sound. Although the old saying that “every other building in the

Nepal (Kathmandu) Valley is a temple and every other day a festival” may appear a mere exaggeration these days,

there are still innumerable festivals, which are observed with the same old fervor and flavor as they were centuries

ago. Leave alone the hundreds, even a handful like Biska Jatra and Sa-paru are there to make the city second to

none. And much to visitors' utter astonishment, each and every new or full moon in this ancient city stands witness

to a bigger or smaller festivity.

4. Bhaktapur's unique lifestyle also has helped the city live up to its old glory. Less influenced by the so-

called modernity, life in this heritage city is what a considerable number of tourists visit here to observe. Farmer

women draped in their traditional black sarees, men attired in their generations-old costumes, and above all, the life

in Bhaktapur, which is still true to unspoilt Newari traditions, present them not only a distinct culture but also a

different dimension of human civilization.

Active participation in cultural activities has been an inalienable part of Bhaktapur's life. They take part in

festivals, making the latter more lively and agile and the town itself truly a “Living Heritage”. So, while strolling

around the city, you may chance upon musical bands going around the city, playing dhimeys (traditional drums)

and cymbals. Or you may come across individual women who, in their hand, carry a bamboo-made plate or a metal

dish containing rice, vermilion, flowers, coins and other offerings to the deities in their neighborhood. Because of

the changing social behaviour and outlook, such a tradition of course is on the wane, yet many can still be seen

giving continuity to what they have inherited from the preceding generations. As for the city's many cultural dances

and musical forms, the Bhaktapur Festival 1997 (October 22-26, 1997) and the series of competitions that followed

have helped a lot in their preservation and promotion. Thanks to the Bhaktapur Festival 1997, many of the city's

centuries-old dance forms got a new lease of life and many others came into being. The Lakhe Pyakhan (dance of a

demon) was one of such many dance forms, which had seen the sun after decades during the five-day cultural

extravaganza. And much to the joy of cultural buffs, a Mahakali Dance troupe solely consisted of girls aged

between 10 and 14 was one of the many such cultural groupings which came into being during the festival some 30

months ago.

5. Last but not the least, one key factor that makes Bhaktapur truly a “Living Heritage” is its lively

traditions of craftsmanship. In and around Bhaktapur, there are numerous places, where one can find the city's

renowned craftsmen enthusiastically giving continuity to what they have inherited from their immediate past

generation. Just peep in private households, or go around some specific public squares, you will see people sunk in

their respective works. For example, go around Bhaktapur's two well-acclaimed Pottery Squares, and you will

locate there families giving shape to the lumps of black clay placed on their fast spinning wooden wheels. Or just

visit a woodcarver's workshop, you will find craftsmen creating gods and goddesses, or giving finishing touches to

different windows, doors and columns with their traditional implements. Of course there were times when many of

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Bhaktapur's crafts were standing on the verge of extinction, but thanks to the growing tourism trade and its gradual

assimilation of such crafts and heritage, they have now got a new, rejuvenated life.

VI.2. Cost of Restoration of Heritage

Estimated cost of 100m2 of Heritage House

S.No. Particular Amount 1 Labour 146151.07

2 Materials 360592.09

3 Administration 71578.20

4 Research 8768.51

Estimated cost of Bhandar Ghar

S.No Particular Amount Percentage 1 Labour 1217862.22 24.9

2 Materials 3004777.79 61.4

3 Adm 596454.01 12.2

4 Research 73067.095 1.5

Total 4892161.12 100

Estimated cost of Bhairab Temple

S.No Particular Amount 1 Labour 1893720.33

2 Materials 5130615.49

3 Adm 652064.53

4 Research 131193.83

Infrastructure

S.No. Subject Year Estimated Evalution Actual 1 Five Storey Temple 053/5/6-055/4/15 3809164.24 2910297.00 1684740.66 2 Bhairab Nath Temple 052/8/7-053/4/31 7809156.51 4142503.04 2918189.30 3 Bhandar Ghar 053/10/5-055/5/31 4892978.42 4685827.44 2068729.30 4 Yekcheswor Temple 055/9/19-056/6/30 4892978.42 4685827.44 2068729.30 5 Barahi Pith 053/10/22-054/8/11 1031043.30 845811.67 452330.42 6 Tile paved in Narayan Chowk 053/10/22-054/8/13 176570.77 197937.68 169349.00 7 Reconstruction of Hanuman Satal 054/9/2-054/9/10 548919.04 234684.91 219904.35 8 Roof construction of Jetha Ganesh 054/1/9-054/11/19 29028.89 39367.35 29463.00 9 Reconstruction of Ganesh Temple 053/12/25-055/1/23 194276.83 450844.69 433119.51

10 Reconstruction of Well 054/4/29-055/3/25 9374.23 1306.14 1036.96

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SECTION VII: CARRYING CAPACITY AND TOURISM DEVELOPMENT STRATEGY

Keeping in mind Bhaktapur's existing carrying capacity and the tourism trend in the entire nation,

Bhaktapur Municipality has set a very modest target for the coming two years. For the current year 2000, the

projected volume of tourist arrival is 220,000, whereas that for years in 2001 and 2002 is 245,000 and 280,000

respectively.

Likewise, Bhaktapur Municipality foresees the addition of four new, albeit smaller, hotels or guesthouses

in the next two years. This addition is estimated to bring in around 50 more beds for visitors. Similarly, the

expected increase in the number of restaurants or food outlets is three, which will add 100 seats for visitors from

within and beyond the country.

As for the parking lots, Bhaktapur Municipality plans to have two more within the next two years. The

additional parking areas are expected to accommodate around 60 more vehicles of varied sizes. And the

construction of these parking areas at the city outskirts will add one more brick in making the city pollution-free

through its gradual pedestrianization.

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SECTION VIII: CURRENT SCHEMES IMPLEMENTED BY THE MUNICIPALITY TO CAPTURE THE

REVENUE OF THE TOURISM INDUSTRY FOR HERITAGE CONSERVATION

Evidently the generation of revenue from tourism is a must, at least in Bhaktapur's context, to make

tourism serve the cause of heritage conservation. For this, one source of income is parking fee. The current fee

structure is Rs. 5 for car, and Rs. 10 and Rs 20 for minibuses and buses respectively. The total revenue the park fee

generated in 1998-99 was Rs. 662,836 (US$ 9,747).

As has been mentioned earlier, the municipality levies 'service charge' from foreign visitors. The 'service

charge' for SAARC national is Rs. 30 per visitor, whereas that for visitors from non-SAARC countries is Rs. 300

per person. From this charge alone, the municipality made an income of US$ 646,825 in the fiscal year of 1998-99.

And because of the volume it is the source, which has enabled the municipality to carry out its major conservation-

related undertakings.

Taxes on hotels and restaurants also do exist, but the volume of their support in terms of tax is nothing but

a peanut. Their contribution to the municipal coffers last year was a mere US 618.

As for the local tour guides, there are no such agency providing this kind of service. There are neither

travel agencies nor any other units providing those kinds of service to visitors. But the municipality is for giving

encouragement and incentives for private parties willing to provide such services to visitors.

So far as the public toilets, stage shows, and sales of books, brochures and maps are concerned, they do

not provide any financial support to the municipality. While the use of public toilets is free in Bhaktapur, there is

no provision on the part of the municipality with regard to the public shows and books and brochures counter.

As far as the feedback that the municipality has so far got from the tourists, one fact that always

encouraged Bhaktapur Municipality as well as the local citizens is that the majority of tourists never complained for

the service charge they pay before getting into the city. Of course a number of budget tourists keep on complaining

about the toll, the majority of the visitors support it. And the support sometimes is such that many of them drop by

the municipality, asking the local body to raise the amount so that it would be more self-reliant in undertaking such

a noble cause.

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SECTION IX: PROMOTION AND PRESENTATION OF HERITAGE

PROMOTION

Realizing the role that the tourism industry has played in the conservation of heritage in Bhaktapur,

Bhaktapur Municipality of late has started implementing some very important schemes to attract tourists.

1 “Selling” the city abroad: In order to “sell” Bhaktapur in foreign markets, Bhaktapur Municipality has

started making its presence felt in different stages around the world. The first stage that the municipality used for

the purpose was World Travel Mart (WTM) '98, which was held in London, UK in November 1998. Likewise, it

actively took part in the 4th General Assembly of the Organization of World Heritage Cities (OWHC) held in

Santiago de Compostela, Spain in October 1999. In Spain, it not only gave its candidacy for the OWHC Board of

Directors, but also made a vigorous bid for hosting the next OWHC meet in Bhaktapur 2001.

Moreover, the presence of Bhaktapur in the 9th International Anti-Corruption Conference held in Durban,

South Africa in October 1999 and in Luang Prabang, Laos in the course of a UNESCO-sponsored conference in

February 2000 have also boosted Bhaktapur's image in the world arena. In the course, we will never forget the

honor that UNESCO had bestowed upon us in the form of the ‘First Honourable Mention from Asia for 1998-99’.

Awarded to our Mayor, Mr. Prem Suwal, on July 16, 1999 in La Paz, Bolivia by the then UNESCO Director

General Mr. Federico Mayor amidst a colorful function, the covetous award, we hold, is a due recognition to our

noble efforts. We are of the opinion that the UNESCO prize has made us more responsible in our common cause of

preservation.

2 Website and publications: Strictly in line with its objectives of preserving and promoting Bhaktapur, its

rich cultural heritage and tourism potentials, Bhaktapur Municipality in the recent past has launched a separate

homepage of its own. In the air since November 1998, Bhaktapur's website has been instrumental in making this

heritage city known to more and more people around the world.

Besides the homepage, Bhaktapur Municipality has its own publications. While its monthly publication,

‘Bhaktapur’, disseminates information to the Nepalese audience, the varieties of multi-colored brochures in English

do the same for the tourists visiting Bhaktapur. While two kinds of colored brochures are distributed to individual

visitors at the city's 14 entry points, there are other publications which are exclusively designed for special events

and individuals. The distribution of these publications in various international stages has equally helped Bhaktapur

gain popularity among its prospective visitors.

3 Audio-visual programs: Another of Bhaktapur Municipality's recent promotional activities includes the

production of an exclusive audio-visual program. The 30-minute program has further helped Bhaktapur to be

known in the world. Plans are on the anvil to make more for the long-term benefit of Bhaktapur and its inhabitants.

4 Miscellaneous: Distribution of printed publicity materials among both local and foreign travelers,

organization of various competitions among local cultural troupes and musical bands and press conferences at

certain intervals are something that have helped Bhaktapur become a favored spot among visitors.

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PRESENTATION

Bhaktapur's Living Heritage is presented to visitors through the regular festival and cultural activities.

There are festivals like Biska and Sa-paru, which make this ancient city second to none. Similarly there are over

150 musical bands and over 100 cultural troupes that make Bhaktapur as culturally lively as it was centuries ago.

To make them more noticeable to visitors, Bhaktapur Municipality organizes various competitions to coincide with

the city's variety of regular cultural activities. For example, the Sa-paru festival of 1999 saw a competition among

the city's traditional flute bands. Like before, the winners of the competition got more musical instruments and cash

in prize, and those who just participated in it got mileage promoting them among the visitors as well as the local

citizens.

In the course of promoting and presenting Bhaktapur's age-old traditions of art, culture and craftsmanship,

what the municipality did in October 1997 is something that many people will never like to forget. That time even

many of Bhaktapur's elderly people did see what they had never seen in their entire life. The Bhaktapur Festival

1997—organized by Bhaktapur Municipality from October 22 to 26, 1997—was a landmark in many aspects.

Spread over the entire city, and involving almost all of the city's craftsmen and cultural troupes, the five-day

cultural extravaganza was observed by visitors even from faraway places like La Paz and Java. And the most

important of it was the sense of concern it created especially among the locals on the crucial conservation issue.

AUTHENTICITY IN SERVICES

While catering to visitors, maintenance of traditional touch in services provided to them is made sure. In

this regard Bhaktapur Municipality encourages private tourism entrepreneurs to give special focus on authentic

traditional decor, accommodation, food varieties and so on.

In order to diminish the adverse effect of pollution caused by vehicular emission, the municipality has

totally banned all vehicles from getting into the Durbar Square. In addition, heavy vehicles are not allowed to get

into the old city core. Increase in the number of parking areas at the city outskirts is aimed at pedestrianizing the

city as much as possible.

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SECTION X: COMMUNITY PARTICIPATION

Bhaktapur Municipality encourages as much of public participation in tourism and heritage conservation as

possible. Surveys have shown that almost all of Bhaktapur's tourism entrepreneurs and craftsmen are locals.

Moreover, the local people own all restaurants and guesthouses, whereas outsiders own a few of souvenir shops in

the city.

As for the cultural troupes, all of them, without any exception, are consisted of local performers. Therefore,

any amount of benefit accrued from the growth of tourism trade will have direct bearing on their family and life.

Keeping this in mind, Bhaktapur Municipality is effortful of giving a boost to tourism and in the long run bringing

about a qualitative change in the life of Bhaktapur's people. Currently, the number of people involved in various

cultural groups is around 2,000 in Bhaktapur.

Active public participation in conservation-oriented works is encouraging. For example, in the renovation

of the Bhairavnath temple alone, the municipality could secure over 300 man-days of voluntary work from the

locals. The average man-days that each of the municipality's major conservation project involved are estimated

around 200.

As for the number of people that are employed by the tourism industry in Bhaktapur comes around 1,160.

And it is the 2.9% of the total labor force of the heritage city. Evidently the percentage shows that the tourism trade

still needs encouragement and incentives from all quarters including the central government.

And while talking about tourism, the innovations in infrastructure inspired by it is something, which no one

can ignore, especially in Bhaktapur's context. For instance, there are five parking areas, with two more in pipeline,

in this city alone, and that number would not have thought of had not the crowds of tourists coming into this

heritage city thickened every passing year. Moreover, the city's pavements, sanitation, telecommunication facilities

and such other sectors have seen considerable improvement in recent years, thanks to Bhaktapur's steady evolution

as a favored tourist destination. And above all, the growth in tourism has also given a new impetus to the city's

latest 'Cultural Renaissance'.

Evidently, the expansion of tourism trade has given a new lease of life for a number of cultural troupes in

Bhaktapur. Although the cultural revival has its main root in the widening horizon of people's cultural awareness,

the role being played by tourism in that direction can never be ruled out. Of course they are a bit commercialized,

especially in view of the changing time, they owe much to the new vistas of economic activities that tourism has

opened up for them.

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SECTION XI: POLLUTION

Unlike in many touristic places in Kathmandu, or even the nearby hill resort of Nagarkot, no local people

have so far been displaced by the growing tourism industry. No such reporting has been made till to date. But

ironically, there are very few people in Bhaktapur, who have got direct benefit from the industry. The benefit, to a

larger extent, is confined to a relatively small section of the society. Bhaktapur Municipality's various skill-oriented

trainings and similar other activities are directed towards giving benefit to as many of Bhaktapur's population as

possible.

The tourism industry is equally instrumental in promoting Bhaktapur's local industries. Without displacing

any of its existing industries, the new trade has encouraged such traditional industries as woodcarving, textile,

painting and so on. Consequently, this has brought about a great change albeit to a limited number of Bhaktapur's

population.

The fast growing tourism industry has shown its influence on garbage disposal as well. True, the people of

Bhaktapur and Bhaktapur Municipality have their primary focus on the hygienic needs of the local masses, but the

ever thickening crowd of tourists has made them more attentive to garbage disposal.

As many other popular touristic places have experienced, Bhaktapur also has witnessed a negative side of

tourism. While tourism has brought in money and materia l pleasure for many, it has paved ways for some negative

things as well. As the effect of this fast growing global trade, the indigenous people have begun losing their socio-

cultural identity. They have begun feeling culturally invaded by "polluting" alien cultures. Leave alone the way

they look at the society they are living in, even the clothing of the new generation has seen a sea change in recent

years.