A BEGINNERS GUIDE TOwordpress-2471-39414-100555.cloudwaysapps.com/wp...CLOTHING COMPANY PATAGONIA...

BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 1APRIL 2015

A BEGINNERSGUIDE TO:

WRITTEN BY RACHEL KULCHIN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TABA PHOTOGRAPHY

BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 2

PATAGONIA

WHEN TO VISITTIME OF YEAR WILL GREATLY

IMPACT YOUR TRIP. 6

MAP OF PATAGONIAWHERE IS PATAGONIA? 5

WHAT TO PACKGEAR CORNER7

USHUAIA - TIERRA DEL FUEGOSOUTHERNMOST CITY IN THE WORLD10ISLA DE MARTILLOPEGUINS ABOUND13

ISLA DE MARTILLO13HIDDEN DOWN AT THE BOTTOM OF OUR

PLANET IS A LITTLE BARREN ISLAND.

WRITTEN BY RACHEL KULCHIN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TABA PHOTOGRAPHY

TORRES DEL PAINEI COULD WAX POETIC ABOUT THIS PLACE ALL

DAY AND NOT EVEN TOUCH THE SURFACE OF THE

OVERWHELMING BEAUTY TO BE FOUND HERE.18

BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 3PUERTO NATALES

PORTAL CITY TO TORRES DEL PAINE16NAVIMAG

TRAVELING NORTH?17TORRES DEL PAINE

MIDDLE EARTH ON OUR PLANET18

CHILOÉMYSTERIOUS ISLAND HIDDEN IN THE MISTS23

MAP OF THE “Q”INTO THE HEART OF TORRES DEL PAINE19CHILOÉ

THE MOMENT YOU STEP OFF THE BOAT YOU

CAN FEEL IT. THIS ISLAND IS SINGULAR,

STEEPED IN AN ANCIENT TRADITION.23

GEAR CORNERYOU MUST PREPARE. DO NOT FORGET TO PACK THESE ITEMS. 7


GLACIER GREY, TORRES DEL PAINE

Weather changes on a dime – soaring past on the winds that will knock you on your britches. The people have a fierce survival glint in their eyes and are warmly welcoming. Wildlife is undaunted by your presence and the landscape beckons to be explored.

Patagonia is calling to you.


Puerto Natales

Ushuaia Isla de Martillo

Torres del Paine

Castro

ARGENTINACHILE

Corcovado Gulf

Gulf of Penas

Grande Bay

Strait of Magellan

Cape Horn

Chiloé

MAP OF PATAGONIA

When people speak about the region of Patagonia, they are refering to the southernmost area of Chile and Argentina. The region’s borders are unclear, but as broadly defined, the borders are: the Pacific Ocean to the west, the At-

lantic Ocean to the East, Cape Horn to the south, and to the north, the Colorado River in Argentina, and Reloncaví Estuary in Chile.

WHERE IS PATAGONIA?


The summer season. The warmest months. It is important to keep in mind that because of the warmth, everyone else is planning on traveling at that time as well. This means all the prices are higher and the demand for tickets is high. Know that going into it, and plan accordingly.

WHEN TO VISIT

NOVEMBER - MARCHKNOWING THIS, I ALWAYS TRY TO EITHER

PLAN ON THE EARLY SIDE OF THAT

SEASON, OR THE LATER SIDE. SURE, IT

IS NOT AS WARM OUTSIDE, AND THE

WEATHER MIGHT BE A LITTLE MORE

EXTREME, BUT THERE WILL BE FEWER

PEOPLE. TO ME, IT IS WORTH IT.

ISLAND OF CHILOÉ


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THERMALS

This is your base layer. Pulls away

moisture from your skin, helping you stay warm. Try to find a top with a

zipper and hood if possible.

WOOL SOCKS

Little is worse than hiking in wet socks, unless you count trying to

sleep in wet socks. Have muliple pairs so you can have

a night pair and a day pair.

DOWN JACKET

Your insulation layer.

Keeps you super warm. Offers best warmth to weight

ratio.

HIKING BOOTS

Waterproof is key! Take your time

when buying them to make sure they fit properly. Jump up and down, run around, and walk

as many stairs as you can find

before purchasing.

BACKPACKING PACK

There are many elements that go into buying the

prefect backpack for you. Spend

time with someone to have yourself fitted. Learn how

to pack it properly!

HARD SHELL

Look for a jacket that offers both breathability and water resistance.

This is your windproof layer, and will be key

in the windy conditions of

Patagonia.

CLICK ON THE IMAGETO BE SENT TO THATCOMPANY’S WEBSITE!

WHERE TO BUY

THE SECRET KEY IS LAYERS. FOR A GREAT ONLINE RESOURCE, CHECK

OUT: OUTDOOR GEAR LAB: INTRO TO LAYERED CLOTHING SYSTEMS!

PATAGONIACLOTHINGCOMPANY



AHNU FOOTWARE OSPREY SMART WOOL


You are looking for something

adventurous – you want wild,

strange, rugged, and

extremely beautiful -

Patagonia is your perfect

fix for wanderlust.

COWBOY ROASTING A LAMB, TORRES DEL PAINE


Prepare to surrender

completely to L O N G

transit times. Remember

back when you thought six hours was a

long time to sit in the car?

It is not uncommon for

bus trips to take over 14 hours, but in

terms of being stuck on the

bus, there is no prettier view to

watch pass by.

BUS RIDE TO PUERTO NATALAS


Ushuaia Tierra del Fuego

SOUTHERNMOST CITY IN THE WORLD

MARTIAL GLACIER,USHUAIA

Puerto Natales


Torres del Paine

Castro

ARGENTINACHILE

Corcovado Gulf

Gulf of Penas

Grande Bay

Strait of Magellan

Cape Horn

Chiloé


Located on the sou-thwest shore of the Beagle Channel,

Ushuaia claims the title of the southernmost city in the world. There is a little fuzziness around this claim since the settlement of Puerto Williams is farther south. But it is much smaller than the bustling city of Ushuaia.

As one of the major ports for expeditions heading to Antarctica, Ushuaia is filled with extremely adventurous travelers - everyone hunkering down out of the wind at any opportunity in small cafes and bars. Pull up a stool and get ready to hear some incredible tales.

If you love trains, take the heritage End of the World train. Originally purposed as a freight line to service the prison of Ushuaia, it now has been revived and refurbished with modern amenities and sails along some of our planet’s most breathtaking landscapes. This train is a great way to view the Tierra del Fuego National Park without having to face the wind.

SHIP WRECK,USHUAIA


GLACIER MARTIAL,USHUAIA


ISLA DE

MARTILLO

ESTANCIA HARBERTON

&

SILHOUETTE OF A HORSE, ESTANCIA HARBERTON

Puerto Natales


Torres del Paine

Castro

ARGENTINACHILE

Corcovado Gulf

Gulf of Penas

Grande Bay

Strait of Magellan

Cape Horn

Chiloé


“Let us be honest, penguins don’t smell like roses, so prepare yourself for the noise and the smell, but it is well worth it to be able to watch these amazing creatures in their natural environment. ”

Hidden down at the bottom of our planet is this little island that has been shaped by the ever-present water and wind into an almost barren landscape. Far from devoid of life, this island is a sanctuary for 3,000 pairs of Magellanic penguins as well as a few Gentoo penguins. Let us be honest, penguins don’t smell like roses, so prepare yourself for the noise and the smell, but it is well worth it to be able to watch these amazing creatures in their natural environment.

Not only that, but you access the island by boat from Estancia Harberton. It is the

oldest estancia (ranch) in Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego, operating since 1886. Keep an eye out for the trees, which grow horizontally; they are unable to grow vertically due to the ever-present wind. It is beautiful and feels like you have

stepped back in time. Estancia Harberton also hosts the Acatushun Museum, which is a museum and working laboratory for

the study of marine mammals, hosting the skeletons of over 2700 marine mammals and 2300 birds. As you walk into the museum, be careful not to trip over the whale and dolphin skeletons in the front yard!

WINDBLOWN TREES,ESTANCIA HARBERTON

MAGELLANIC PEGUINSISLA DE MARTILLO


Also, a little side note about the penguins – while it is amazing to see these creatures at the bottom of the world, do not become distressed if you miss them here, as their habitat runs up the entire Chilean Coast (even to the equator). If you are heading north from here, you will have more chances to encounter these little guys. Don’t panic.

MAGELLANIC PEGUINS - ISLA DE MARTILLO

THE TAIL OF A WHALE SKELETON - ACATUSHUN MUSEAUM


Puerto Natales is the portal city to Torres del Paine - a very cute coastal town where you board Navimag, if you are taking that route.

WHERE TO STAY: Erratic Rock

While you are not in the park, stay at the Erratic Rock Hostel www.erraticrock.com. $14 a night gets you a bed, shower, a good breakfast, and real coffee. Not only that, but the staff is amazing and has a wealth of knowledge. I recommend picking their brains, and if you forgot anything you need for your backpacking trip in Torres del Paine, they also run a little gear rental.

WHERE TO EAT: Afrigonia

Tired of rehydrated meals out of your backpack? Treat yourself to a true surprise. Take a step out of the ever-present wind and into the warmth of this wonderful restaurant. The food is an outstanding example of an original fusion blend, created by a wonderful, cheery, Zambian/Chilean couple. Don’t miss! EBERHARD 343, PUERTO NATALES,

CHILE

MANUEL BAQUEDANO 719,

PUERTO NATALES, MAGALLANES,

CHILE

PUERTO NATALES

Puerto Natales


Torres del Paine

Castro

ARGENTINACHILE

Corcovado Gulf

Gulf of Penas

Grande Bay

Strait of Magellan

Cape Horn

Chiloé


NAVIMAGIt is a huge cargo ship transformed to a [mostly] human passenger oriented ferry, which takes four days and three nights to navigate through the fiords of the Chilean coastline.

This is a truly hit or miss opportunity. It could be amazing – a chance to glimpse one of the truly remote landscapes of our planet: floating across the rough water, watching waterfalls, rugged landscape, and swirling mists passing by as if in a dream. It could also be a version of the seven levels of Dante’s Inferno. Your bunkmate could be puking the whole time in the bed below you. Nasty hurricane-speed winds and sleet might box you inside a turbulent metal bucking bronco with the smell and noise of hundreds of anxious cattle wafting up from below.

If you don’t go – you will never know what you could have missed – miserable or incredible. No matter what, you will walk away with a memorable story for the grandkids.

Transport: Heading North up the coast? Think about Navimag.


TORRES DEL PAINEI could wax poetic about this place all day and not even touch the surface of the overwhelming beauty to be found here. Let’s just say it is my version of Middle Earth.

Plan to spend as much time as you possibly can here.

A FULL BACKPACK - TORRES DEL PAINE

Puerto Natales


Torres del Paine

Castro

ARGENTINACHILE

Corcovado Gulf

Gulf of Penas

Grande Bay

Strait of Magellan

Cape Horn

Chiloé


MAP OF THE “Q” TORRES DEL PAINE

START

What do I mean when I say hike

the “Q”? I am referring to

hiking the entire loop - circumnavigating the

mountains. If you are short on time,

for sure, you could just hike the “W”

(which refers to just hiking the front

side), however, I feel like the most

beautiful parts of the park are on the

backside. So plan the extra time!

THE “Q” VERSUS THE “W”:


INTO THE PARK


Get ready to lace up your hiking boots and fill your pack - take that extra step. Be a badass. Do not just settle for the “W” do the whole circuit

do the “Q”

It is absolutely worth it.

GLACIER GREY - TORRES DEL PAINE


Do not rush, plan for at least a week (preferably between 7-15 days). Check out: back-packer.org for a good resource on how to prepare for this hike.

INSIDERS TIP: Take an extra day and plan for

a day hike at Lago Dickson. Ask

someone at the camp there how

to meet up with the boatman to

shuttle you across the river, so

you can hike up to Glacier

Dickson. Way off the beaten

path with spectacular views!

TORRES DEL PAINE


CHILOÉMYSTERIOUS ISLAND HIDDEN IN THE MISTS

based on a mythology of witchcraft, ghost ships, and forest gnomes. The people are fiercely independent and seafarers to their core. Make sure you check out the iconic wooden churches (Unesco World Heritage Site) and the colorful wooden houses built on stilts over the ocean.

The moment you step off the boat you can feel it. This island is singular, steeped in an ancient tradition. With the mist swirling around you, it evokes a feeling that this place is still very wild. The landscape is wet and lush, with dense forests and incredible rolling green hills. The spiritual culture here is

ALONG THE SHORES OF RILAN

Puerto Natales


Torres del Paine

Castro

ARGENTINACHILE

Corcovado Gulf

Gulf of Penas

Grande Bay

Strait of Magellan

Cape Horn

Chiloé


PREPARING FOR THE FEAST, RILAN


WHERE TO STAY: 13 Lunas Hostel

Check out 13 Lunas Hostel in Ancud. Staff is super-duper helpful and can give advice on arranging all of your to-do list. Not only that, it is a large, bright green, almost Victorian looking home – bright yellow trim and all, that features a large beautiful kitchen open to use. Especially while traveling for long stretches at a time, I often miss the opportunity to play in the kitchen, and I felt completely at home here.

WHERE TO EAT: Restaurante Quetalmahue

Absolutely check out Restaurante Quetalmahue. This restaurant in the small village of Quetalmahue is about 12 kilometers away from Ancud and features curanto. Still made in the traditional way, mussels, clams, crabs, oysters, pork sausages, smoked pork, chicken, and potatoes are buried underground over hot coals wrapped in wet leaves and grass and left to steam. The result is in-credible! This is Chile’s most traditional food and this method of cooking dates back at least 7,000 years. Call ahead, make sure they are serving curanto, and figure out a way to get out there.

LOS CARRERA 855, ANCUD,

LOS LAGOS, CHILE

NO ADDRESS, BUT YOU CANNOT MISS IT

VILLAGE QUETALMAHUE

PH: 87919410 - 90333930

CHILOÉ


MORE ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHERS:MORE ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

This guide does not cover even a small percentage of all the amazing adventures to be had in Patagonia.

However, it does share some special places that I think should be on your list when heading to the area.

TABA Photography is dedicated to exploring the world in pursuit of the ultimate image - focusing on adventure, cultural and fine art photography from across our globe. Co-founders Steven Herbert and Rachel Kulchin share a deep passion for adventure, food, travel and photography. We hope you enjoy the adventure with us. To see more of their work, check out their website:

www.tabaphotography.com

Pack your bags, buy your tickets, and get ready to have an amazing ADVENTURE.

Rachel Cox Kulchin has a zeal for travel that has taken her around the world to photograph, enjoy great food, and adventure. In the small darkroom hidden in the boys bathroom at her high school, Rachel developed a boundless love for photography. She earned a degree from the University of California Santa Cruz in Environmental Sciences focusing on Agroecology and Ethnobotany. To the best of her ability, she is living her “Pura Vida”.

A BEGINNERS GUIDE TOwordpress-2471-39414-100555.cloudwaysapps.com/wp...CLOTHING COMPANY PATAGONIA...

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