9.5mm Fold Beijing day - download.e-bookshelf.de · ong D a j i e Dong J i a omin Xi a ng Qin a n...

15 Self-guided Tours. 38 Maps. One Great Trip.

At last, a travel guide that tells you how to see the best of everything—in the smartest, most time-efficient way.

• The best of Beijing in one, two, or three days

• Thematic tours for every interest, schedule, and taste

• Walking tours of the city’s best-loved neighborhoods

• Hundreds of evocative color photos

• Bulleted maps that show you how to get from place to place

• Hotels, restaurants, shopping, and nightlife for all budgets• A tear-resistant foldout map—enclosed in a handy plastic

wallet you can also use for tickets and souvenirs

withfoldout

map

dayBYday

withfoldout

map

Beijing

US $13.99 CAN $16.99 UK £8.99

Beijing

day

BY

day

FoldFold

Zhichunli

Beigingmen

SuzhoujieBagou

Anheqiao North

BeixinqiaoZhangzi-zhonglu

Dongsi

Dengshikou

Dengshikou

Dong-zhimenDongsi-shitiaoChaoyang-menChaoyang-men

HepingliBeijie

HepingxiqiaoAndingmen

Gulou Dajie

Jishuitan

Chegongzhuang

Fuchengmen

Beijing Railway Station

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hui E

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Dongdan

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Jianguomen

Chongwen

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men

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ShaoyaojuZhichunlu

Haidian

Huangzhuang Huixinxijie

North

Beitucheng

Guomao

Lishuiqiao

Beijing CapitalInternationalAirport

Xidan

Yonghegong

Dongdan

Dong-zhimen

Xizhimen

Jianguomen

Chongwen

-

men

Xuanw

umenFu

xing

men

ShaoyaojuZhichunlu

Haidian

Huangzhuang Huixinxijie

North

Beitucheng

Guomao

Lishuiqiao

Beijing CapitalInternationalAirport

Xidan

Wangfujing

Tian’anmenEast

Tian’anmenW

estLingjing Hutong

Tian’anmenEast

Tian’anmenW

est

Changchunjie

Caishiko

u Heping-

men

Qianmen

Ciqikou

Tiantan Dongmen

Puhuangyu

LiujayaoSongjiazhuangSongjiazhuang

Nanlishilu

Muxidi

Military M

useum

Gongzhufen

Wanshoulu

Wukesong

Pingguoyuan

Guchenglu

Bajia Amuse-ment ParkBajia Amuse-ment Park

Babaoshan Yuquanlu ShuangjingJingsong

Liufang

Guangximen

Guangximen

Guangximen

Dazhongsi

Anzhenmen

Anzhenmen

Jiandemen

Mudanyuan

Xitucheng

TaiyanggongTaiyanggong

SanyuanqiaoSanyuanqiao

Liangmaqiao

Agricultural Exhibition Hall

Tuanjiehu

Hujialou

Yong’anli

Jintaixizhao

Jintaixizhao

Huixin-xiqiao

Huixin-xiqiao

DatunluEast

BeiyuanluNorth

LishuiqiaoSouth

TiantongyuanSouth

Tiantongyuan

Tiantongyuan North

Olympic SportsCenter

Olympic Green

South Gate ofForest Park

Wangjing West

Beiyuan

Wudaokou

Shangdi

Xi’erqi

Huoying

Huilongguan

Longze

Terminal 2 Terminal 3

Gaobe

idia

nCom

mun

icat

ion

Unive

rsity

Dawan

glu

Yong’anli

Taoranting

Lingjing Hutong

Line 1Line 2 (Loop Line)Line 4Line 5Line 8 (Olympic Branch Line)Line 8T (Batong Line)Line 10Line 13Line L1 (Airport Extension)

NationalLibrary

Weigongcun

Renmin University

BeijingZoo

Jiaomen West

Gongyixiqiao

Majiapu

Beijing SouthRailway Station

Xinjiekou

Ping’anli

YuanmingyuanPark

East Gate of Peking UniversityZhong-guancun

Xisi

Transfer Station

Front cover photos, left to right:©Yann Layma/Getty Images©Panorama Media (Beijing) Ltd./Alamy Images©Jean-Marc Truchet/Getty Images

Back cover photo ©Peter Solness/Lonely Planet Images

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9.5mm

15 Smart Ways to See the City

Find travel news & deals, expert advice,and connect with fellow travelers at

2nd Edition

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9.5mm

110˚F

100˚F

50˚F

60˚F

70˚F

80˚F

90˚F

40˚F

32˚F

20˚F

10˚F

0˚F

-10˚F

-20˚F

To convert F to C: subtract 32 and multiply

by 5/9 (.555)To convert C to F:

multiply by 1.8and add 32

40˚C

30˚C

20˚C

10˚C

-18˚C

0˚C

-10˚C

-30˚C

32˚F = 0˚C

To convert.....................Inches to centimeters...................Centimeters to inches....................Feet to meters................................Meters to feet..............................Yards to meters..............................Meters to yards.............................Miles to kilometers.......................Kilometers to miles........................

multiply by2.54 .39 .303.28 .911.091.61

.62 1 mile = 1.6km

1km = .62 mile 1 ft. = .30m1m = 3.3 ft.

1 ounce = 28 grams1 pound = .4555 kilogram

To convert..................... Ounces to grams........................Grams to ounces.......................... Pounds to kilograms......................Kilograms to pounds...................

multiply by28.35

.035.45

2.20

1 gram = .04 ounce1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds

multiply by3.8.26.83

1.204.55

.22

To convert.....................U.S. gallons to liters.......................Liters to U.S. gallons......................U.S. gallons to imperial gallons....Imperial gallons to U.S. gallons...Imperial gallons to liters..............Liters to imperial gallons...............

1 liter = .26 U.S. gallon1 U.S. gallon = 3.8 liters

Fold Fold

dayBYday™

2nd Edition

Beijing

by Jen Lin-Liu

01_630068-ffirs.indd i01_630068-ffirs.indd i 9/25/10 12:22 AM9/25/10 12:22 AM

Contents 13 Favorite Moments 1

1 The Best Full-Day Tours 5The Best in One Day 6The Best in Two Days 10The Best in Three Days 14

2 The Best Special-Interest Tours 19Beijing for Contemporary Art Lovers 20Red Beijing 24Beijing by Bicycle 28Beijing: Past, Present & Future 34

3 The Best Neighborhood Walks 37Back Lake Ramble 38Wangfujing 42Liulichang 48

4 The Best Shopping 51Shopping Best Bets 52Beijing Shopping A to Z 57

5 The Best Dining 69Dining Best Bets 70Beijing Restaurants A to Z 76

6 The Best Nightlife 87Nightlife Best Bets 88Beijing Nightlife A to Z 94

7 The Best Arts & Entertainment 103Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 106Beijing Arts & Entertainment A to Z 107

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8 The Best Lodging 113Lodging Best Bets 114Beijing Hotels A to Z 120

9 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 131The Great Wall & the Commune 132More Great Wall Excursions 136Chengde 140Pingyao 144

The Savvy Traveler 149Before You Go 150Getting There 152Getting Around 154Fast Facts 154Beijing: A Brief History 160Mandarin Language Guide 164Beijing Menu Reader 168Recommended Books 174Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 176

Index 177

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Published by:

Wiley Publishing, Inc.111 River St.

Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

Copyright © 2011 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights

reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a

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Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, and Day by Day are trademarks or regis-

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mer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used

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ISBN 978-0-470-63006-8 (paper); 978-0-470-92888-2 (ebk);

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Editor: Ian Skinnari

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A Note from the Editorial Director

Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about.

Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.

Hoping to climb the Great Wall, or to explore the Forbidden City? Planning to visit Tian’anmen Square, ride a bicycle through Bei-jing’s hutongs, or roam the courtyards of Lama Temple? Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest route to follow. Not only do we take you to the top sights and attractions, but we introduce you to those special moments that only locals know about—those “finds” that turn tourists into travelers.

The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and res-taurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wild-est nightlife—it’s all here.

Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors person-ally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please send your comments our way at [email protected], and we’ll pass them on.

Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime.

Warm regards,

Kelly Regan, Editorial DirectorFrommer’s Travel Guides

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vi

About the AuthorJen Lin-Liu is a food and culture writer and the owner of the Beijing cook-ing school Black Sesame Kitchen. Most recently, she is the author of Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China (Harcourt, 2008), which received wide praise from publications ranging from The New York Review of Books to People. A former correspondent for Newsweek in Shanghai, she is a regular food and arts contributor for The New York Times. She has authored several Frommer’s travel guides in Asia and has written for The Wall Street Journal, Saveur, Food & Wine, and Travel + Leisure. She first went to China in 2000 on a Fulbright fellowship, after growing up in south-ern California and graduating from Columbia University. Learn more about her work at jenlinliu.com.

AcknowledgmentsJen Lin-Liu would like to thank Candice Lee for her help in creating this book, as well as Sherisse Pham for her work on the previous edition. She is also grateful to her husband, Craig, for his unwavering support, assistance researching the nooks and crannies of Beijing, and for his photographs that grace the pages of this book.

An Additional NotePlease be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, edi-tors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of read-ers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.

Star Ratings, Icons & AbbreviationsEvery hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a = icon to point out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or res-taurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet P.

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

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http://www.jenlinliu.com

vii

Travel Resources at Frommers.comFrommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website, www.frommers.com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destina-tions. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bar-gains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.

A Note on PricesIn the “Take a Break” and “Best Bets” sections of this book, we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree at a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs:

Cost Hotels Restaurants $ under $65 under $10 $$ $65–$130 $10–$15 $$$ $130–$260 $15–$25 $$$$ $260–$390 $25–$40 $$$$$ over $390 over $40

How to Contact UsIn researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:

Frommer’s Beijing, Day by Day, 2nd EditionWiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

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http://www.frommers.com

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13 Favorite Moments

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213

Fav

orite

Mo

me

nts 13 Favorite Moments

Previous page: Walking the Simatai section of the Great Wall.

Houhai

Qianhai

Xihai

Beihai

Zho

ng

ha

i

Houhai

Qianhai

Xihai

Beihai

Zho

ng

ha

i

JingshanPark

ZhongshanPark

Temple of Heaven Park

JingshanPark

ZhongshanPark


TIAN’ANMENSQUARE

FORBIDDENCITY

TIAN’ANMENSQUARE

FORBIDDENCITY

DONGCHENGDONGCHENG

Qianmen Dong Dajie

Dong Chang’an Jie

Qianm

en Dajie

Zhushikou Dong Dajie

Tiantan Lu

Nan Wei Lu

Bei Wei Lu

Qinian D

ajie

Chongw

enmen w

ai Dajie

Wangfujing D

ajie

Jingshan Qian Jie

Bei C

hizi Dajie

Bei C

hang Jie

Dongsi N

an Dajie

Di’anmen Dong Dajie Zhangzi Zhong Lu

Dongsi Xidajie

Fuxue Hutong

Jiaodaokou

Yonghegong Dajie

Dongsi B

ei Dajie

Bei H

eyan Dajie

Qianmen Dong Dajie

Dong Chang’an Jie

Qianm

en Dajie


Tiantan Lu

Nan Wei Lu

Bei Wei Lu

Qinian D

ajie

Chongw

enmen w

ai Dajie

Wangfujing D

ajie

Jingshan Qian Jie

Bei C

hizi Dajie

Bei C

hang Jie

Dongsi N

an Dajie

Di’anmen Xi Dajie Di’anmen Dong Dajie Zhangzi Zhong Lu

Dongsi Xidajie

Xi’anmen Dajie

Xisi N

an Dajie

Xinjekou N

an Dajie

Xishiku D

ajieD

eshengmennei D

ajie

Houhai Nanyan

Gulou Xi Dajie

Gulou Xi Dajie

Jiugulou Dajie

Gulou Dongdajie

Fuxue Hutong

Jiaodaokou

And

ingmennei D

ajie

Di’anmen Xi Dajie

Xinjekou N

an Dajie

Xishiku D

ajieD

eshengmennei D

ajie

Houhai Nanyan

Jiugulou Dajie

Gulou Dongdajie Jiaodaokou

And

ingmennei D

ajie

Yonghegong Dajie

Dongsi B

ei Dajie

Bei H

eyan Dajie

Great Wall

Made in China

Da Dong

Houhai Lake

Drum Tower

798 & CaochangdiArt Districts

Mao Livehouse

Yugong Yushan

The Emperor

Hutongs

Aman Beijing

Zoo Market

Ritan Office Building

Forbidden City

Bodhi

Beihai Park

12

2b

2a

6a

1

10a

9

4

3

8

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11

13

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313 Favorite M

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At first glimpse, Beijing isn’t a conventionally attractive city. But look a little more closely and you can’t help but be capti-

vated by this city’s contradictions and contrasts. Modern skyscrap-ers spring up in neighborhoods of traditional courtyard homes. Fancy fusion restaurants open up next to street-side snack stalls. Rolls-Royces speed past bicycles and, occasionally, donkey carts. Amid the chaos, the full-throttle rush into the future, here are some of our favorite moments. Savor them, and you’ll come to love Beijing as we have.

1 Climb the Great Wall. Though it might sound like a cliché, the Great Wall is an absolute must. This ancient Chinese landmark meanders to dizzying heights. Avoid the crowds and tacky tourist traps by heading to an unrestored section. See p 133.

2 Eat Peking duck. In a town with few local specialties, this sumptuous dish stands out as a legacy of Bei-jing’s imperial era. Be prepared for juicy duck meat and crisp skin wrapped around paper-thin pan-cakes flavored with a savory-sweet dark sauce. It’s best experienced at either Da Dong or Made in China. See p 81.

3 Take a romantic walk around Houhai Lake. The late afternoon, just around sunset, is the best time to take a stroll around the lake. Tacky tourist touts give way to an

idyllic scene of weeping willows brushing the shore while locals play chess or take a dip in waters of questionable cleanliness—all part of the charm. Walk to the western banks for optimum tranquillity. See p 11.

4 Go fly a kite. Join the locals in the square just behind the Drum Tower, in the heart of Beijing’s old courtyard district. See p 12.

5 Browse the galleries at cut-ting-edge art districts. Beijing boasts one of the best art scenes in the world at the moment—visit the galleries at Caochangdi and 798 to see why. See p 21.

6 Spend an evening rocking out to live punk, indie, and metal at one of Beijing’s thriving live music clubs. Check out the youth culture scene at Mao Livehouse or Yugong Yushan—what you see might

The Great Wall.

Rocking out at Mao Livehouse.

Houhai

Qianhai

Xihai

Beihai

Zho

ng

ha

i

JingshanPark

ZhongshanPark


TIAN’ANMENSQUARE

FORBIDDENCITY

DONGCHENG

Qianmen Dong Dajie

Dong Chang’an Jie

Qianm

en Dajie


Tiantan Lu

Nan Wei Lu

Bei Wei Lu

Qinian D

ajie

Chongw

enmen w

ai Dajie

Wangfujing D

ajie

Jingshan Qian Jie

Bei C

hizi Dajie

Bei C

hang Jie

Dongsi N

an Dajie

Di’anmen Dong Dajie Zhangzi Zhong Lu

Dongsi Xidajie

Fuxue Hutong

Jiaodaokou

Yonghegong Dajie

Dongsi B

ei Dajie

Bei H

eyan Dajie

Di’anmen Xi Dajie

Xinjekou N

an Dajie

Xishiku D

ajieD

eshengmennei D

ajie

Houhai Nanyan

Gulou Xi Dajie

Jiugulou Dajie

Gulou Dongdajie Jiaodaokou

And

ingmennei D

ajie


413

Fav

orite

Mo

me

nts

! Gaze down at Tian’anmen Square from the top of the Forbidden City. From this spot, Chairman Mao made many of his announcements. Make sure to look for his mausoleum on the far end of Tian’anmen Square. See p 8.

@ Get a foot massage. A recent boom in spas in Beijing means there are more choices than ever to unwind—my favorite local spa is Bodhi, where bargain massages come with free drinks and food. See p 46.

# Take a morning walk at Beihai Park. This enormous park contains a gorgeous lake and a white Bud-dhist stupa, but just as engrossing are the senior citizens doing tai chi and using gigantic brushes to scrawl Chinese calligraphy in water on the sidewalks. See p 11.

surprise you and defy your ideas of a Communist “party.” See p 101.

7 Have a cocktail atop the roof at The Emperor. This new boutique hotel has a great view of the Forbid-den City and its moat—it’s the per-fect place to unwind after a day of sightseeing. See p 123.

8 Ride a bicycle through the hutongs. You’ll find yourself sitting bolt upright on an old-fashioned bike as you coast through the back alleys (hutongs) of Beijing. See p 28.

9 Escape for a weekend retreat at the Aman Beijing. This gorgeous new resort offers palatial rooms fit for emperors and VIP access to the Summer Palace. See p 120.

0 Shop ‘til you drop. Everything is made in China these days—and yes, it’s cheaper in China. For those look-ing for bargain designer threads, head to the Zoo Market and the Ritan Office Building. See p 62.

One of Beijing’s many hutongs.


1 The Best Full-Day Tours

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6Th

e B

est

Full-

Day

To

urs

ORIENTAL PLAZA

FORBIDDENCITY

TIAN’ANMENSQUARE

NationalMuseum

NationalGrand

TheatreGreat Hall ofthe People

Arrow Tower

Working People’sCultural Palace

Hall of Prayer forGood Harvests

Altar of Heaven

ORIENTAL PLAZA

FORBIDDENCITY

TIAN’ANMENSQUARE

NationalMuseum

NationalGrand


Arrow Tower



Altar of Heaven

ZhongshanPark

DongdanPark


ZhongshanPark

DongdanPark


Zh

on

gh

ai

Wangfujing D

ajie

Bei C

hizi Dajie

Donghuangchengge N

an Jie

Bei H

eyan Dajie

Dengshikou Dajie

Bei C

hang JieN

an Chang Jie

Jinyu Hutong

Dong Chang’an Jie

Hualong Jie

Dongsi N

an Dajie

Dongd

an Bei D

ajie

Zhengyi Lu

Taijichang Dajie

Qianmen Xi Dajie Qianmen Dong Dajie Chongwenmen Xi Dajie

Chongw

enmennei D

ajieC

hongwenm

enwai D

ajie

Qianm

en Dajie

Zhushikou Xi Dajie

Qinan D

ajie


Yong’an Lu

Tiantan Lu

Tiantan Dong Lu

Chongw

enmenw

ai Dajie

Xi Chang’an Jie

Wangfujing D

ajie

Bei C

hizi Dajie

Donghuangchengge N

an Jie

Bei H

eyan Dajie

Dengshikou Dajie

Bei C

hang JieN

an Chang Jie

Jinyu Hutong

Dong Chang’an Jie

Hualong Jie

Dongsi N

an Dajie

Dongd

an Bei D

ajie

Zhengyi Lu

Taijichang Dajie


Chongw

enmennei D

ajieC

hongwenm

enwai D

ajie

Qianm

en Dajie

Zhushikou Xi Dajie

Qinan D

ajie


Yong’an Lu

Tiantan Lu

Tiantan Dong Lu

Chongw

enmenw

ai Dajie

Xi Chang’an Jie

Wangfujing

Dengshikou

Dongdan

Chongwenmen

Ciqikou

Tiantandongmen

Tian’anmenDong

Tian’anmen Xi

Qianmen

Wangfujing

Dengshikou

Dongdan

Chongwenmen

Ciqikou

Tiantandongmen

Tian’anmenDong

Tian’anmen Xi

Qianmen

DONGCHENGDONGCHENG

1

5

2

3

4

Temple of Heaven

Tian’anmen Square

Chairman Mao Memorial Hall

Forbidden City

Yin Bar at the Emperor Hotel

1

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1/2 mi0

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The Best in One Day

Previous page: The New Summer Palace.


7The B

est in O

ne

Day

Travel Tip

With the expansion of the Beijing metro system over the last few years, taking the subway has never been easier. Most destinations are within a few minutes’ walk of a sub-way stop, and mass transit buffs will find one of the cheapest rides in the world, at ¥2 per ride. An added bonus is that you won’t have to deal with Beijing’s horrendous traffic. On the other hand, if you’re traveling outside of rush hours (weekdays 8–10am and 4–7pm) and have the name of your destination written in Chinese (as most taxi drivers don’t speak English), taxis—which are also inexpensive and plentiful—might be the way to go.

wooden hall, with its triple-layered cylindrical blue-tiled roof, is perhaps the most recognizable emblem of Chinese imperial architecture out-side of the Forbidden City. The main hall is 38m (125 ft.) high and 30m (98 ft.) in diameter and—here’s the kicker—it was constructed without a single nail. @ 11⁄2 hr.; arrive at 7am to catch the morning buzz. 1 Tiantan Donglu Jia. y 010/6702-8866. Admis-sion park only Apr–Oct ¥15; Nov–Mar ¥10. Access to all sites Apr–Oct ¥35; Nov–Mar ¥30. Park daily 6am–8pm (park closes 1 hr. earlier in the win-ter); sites daily 8am–4pm (sites close 30 min. earlier in winter). Metro: Tiantandongmen; exit station on the south side and take a ¥10 cab ride to the temple’s east gate.

2 Tian’anmen Square (Tian’anmen Guangchang). Tian’anmen is a mere stripling

1 ★ = Temple of Heaven (Tiantan Gongyuan). Just after dawn, regular park goers practice tai chi, kung fu, group dancing, or giant calligraphy on this park’s greenery and paved walkways. You’ll probably hear birds and crick-ets chirping happily through their cages as their owners (mostly retired elderly men) take them out for a walk. The park is huge; don’t miss ★★ Qian Dian (Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests). Although the building’s origins date from 1420, the current structure is a replica built in 1889 after the original burned to the ground. The circular

If you have only 1 day in Beijing, be prepared to kick into cul-tural overdrive. We’re going to take you to the major historical

sites that played witness to some of China’s most defining moments. The tour itself is a study in juxtapositions: You’ll see an imperial pal-ace, an ancient symbol of wealth and opulence, standing next to Bei-jing’s infamous, starkly Communist-style structures. Each stop on the tour recalls a moment in China’s long and varied past, and the fren-zied activity swirling around you at every turn is a reminder that the city’s entrance onto the international scene has just begun. START:

Temple of Heaven, west gate.

ORIENTAL PLAZA

FORBIDDENCITY

TIAN’ANMENSQUARE

NationalMuseum

NationalGrand


Arrow Tower



Altar of Heaven

ZhongshanPark

DongdanPark


Wangfujing D

ajie

Bei C

hizi Dajie

Donghuangchengge N

an Jie

Bei H

eyan Dajie

Dengshikou Dajie

Bei C

hang JieN

an Chang Jie

Jinyu Hutong

Dong Chang’an Jie

Hualong Jie

Dongsi N

an Dajie

Dongd

an Bei D

ajie

Zhengyi Lu

Taijichang Dajie


Chongw

enmennei D

ajieC

hongwenm

enwai D

ajie

Qianm

en Dajie

Zhushikou Xi Dajie

Qinan D

ajie


Yong’an Lu

Tiantan Lu

Tiantan Dong Lu

Chongw

enmenw

ai Dajie

Xi Chang’an Jie

Wangfujing

Dengshikou

Dongdan

Chongwenmen

Ciqikou

Tiantandongmen

Tian’anmenDong

Tian’anmen Xi

Qianmen

DONGCHENG

The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests.


8Th

e B

est

Full-

Day

To

urs

5 Yin Bar at The Emperor Hotel. Sip a cocktail while watching the sun set behind the sparkling yellow roofs of the Forbidden City. 33 Qihelou St, Emperor Hotel.

y 010/6526-5566. Open daily Apr–Oct 3:30pm–midnight. $$.

important place in history, it’s odd to see him occupying so little physical space. Sure, there are more critical issues to think about when viewing Mao, but you’re given very little time for reflection as you are quickly shuf-fled around the roped barrier. See “Keeping Up Appearances,” p 25.

@ 20 min. South end of Tian’anmen Square Tues–Sun 8–11:30am, some-times also 2–4pm (usually Tues, Thurs). Admission free. Bag storage across the street, directly west, for ¥3 per piece. Metro: Tian’anmen East or West. Walk toward the south-central end of Tian’anmen Square.

4 ★★ Forbidden City (Gu Gong). The very name of this his-toric site induces goose bumps. You are entering a place that is so vast, so grand and impressive, that mere civilians were once denied access; this is Beijing’s Buckingham Palace or Versailles.

compared to other Chinese emblems that date back many centuries. The square was built in the 1950s, after Mao cleared away all the old gov-ernment ministries. Thankfully, cash ran out before he also realized plans to “press down” the “feudal” Forbid-den City. @ 30 min. It’s best to take the subway or approach the square by foot, as taxis aren’t allowed to stop in front. Located, literally, in the center of Beijing. Free admission. Metro stops: Tian’anmen East or Tian’anmen West.

3 Chairman Mao Memorial Hall (Mao Zhuxi Jinnian Tang).

I’m always surprised by how small Mao looks (official sources

state that Mao was 180cm tall, or just under

5 ft. 11 in.). For a man who

holds such an

A side view of the Forbidden City, protected by a bronze lion.

Sculptures in front of the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall.


9The B

est in O

ne

Day

IMPERIALGARDEN

Shenwu Gate

Hall of PreservingHarmony

Hall of MiddleHarmony

QianqingGate

Hall ofClocks

Hall of Great Harmony

HongyiPavilion

TirenPavilion

ZhenduGate

ZhaodeGate

Gate ofGreat Harmony

XihuaGate

DonghuaGate

Palace ofHeavenly Purity

Palace of EarthlyTranquility

Hall ofPaintings

ImperialLibrary

Shenwu Gate

Hall of PreservingHarmony

Hall of MiddleHarmony

QianqingGate

Hall ofClocks

Hall of Great Harmony

HongyiPavilion

TirenPavilion

ZhenduGate

ZhaodeGate

Gate ofGreat Harmony

XihuaGate

DonghuaGate

Palace ofHeavenly Purity

Palace of EarthlyTranquility

Hall ofPaintings

ImperialLibrary

Pa

lac

e

Mo

at P

ala

ce

Mo

at

IMPERIALGARDEN

4A

4B

4E

4D

4C

Forbidden City

Some of the Forbidden City’s most charming areas lie along its eastern axis. The ticket booth is south of Qianqing Men. After entering, walk straight to the B Nine Dragon Screen, a glazed tile wall meant to protect the emperor from malevo-lent spirits. Directly opposite is the C Hall of Jewelry, housing impe-rial seals and headpieces. Continue to the highlight of the area, D ★★ Ningshou Gong Huayuan. This is where the Qianlong emperor (ruled 1735–96) was meant to spend his retirement. Water once filled the winding trough carved into the floor of the main pavilion. A cup of wine would be sent down the stream, and the person nearest to where it stopped would have to compose a poem or drink the wine. To the north is E ★★ Leshou Tang, which houses a beautiful pavilion built entirely of sandalwood. In the final hall, Yihe Xuan, you’ll find F Zhen

Fei Jing (Well of the Pearl Concu-bine). The Pearl Concubine was one of the Guangxu emperor’s (ruled 1875–1908) favorites. Empress Cixi had her thrown down this well as they were fleeing in the aftermath of the Boxer Rebellion. According to sev-eral accounts, the girl angered Cixi when she suggested Guangxu stay and face the foreign troops. @ 3 hr. North side of Tian’anmen Square across Chang’an Dajie. y 010/6513-2255. Admission ¥60 Apr–Oct; ¥40 Nov–Mar. Metro: Tian’anmen West.

A roof detail at the Forbidden City.


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