900000 Volt Van de Graaff Generator Using Cheap p

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    900,000 volt Van de Graaff Generator Using Cheap Partsby nickademuss on December 15, 2008

    Table of Contents

    900,000 volt Van de Graaff Generator Using Cheap Parts ...............................................................................

    Intro: 900,000 volt Van de Graaff Generator Using Cheap Parts ........................................................................

    Step 1: Parts List (give or take a few items...) ......................................................................................

    Step 2: Belt Material and were to get it! ..........................................................................................

    Step 3: Tools needed (give or take again...) .......................................................................................

    Step 4: Building the base Step 1 ...............................................................................................

    Step 5: Base step 2 .........................................................................................................

    Step 6: Base, step 3 ........................................................................................................

    Step 7: Base step 4 .........................................................................................................

    Step 8: Base step 5 .........................................................................................................

    Step 9: Base step 5 another view ..............................................................................................

    Step 10: Base step 5 pic .....................................................................................................

    Step 11: Base (comb and bottom roller) ..........................................................................................

    Step 12: Base step 6 ........................................................................................................

    Step 13: Time for the top 1 ................................................................................................... 1

    Step 14: Assemble The Belt .................................................................................................. 1

    Step 15: Top roller .......................................................................................................... 1

    Step 16: Top roller another view and belt construction. ............................................................................... 1

    Step 17: Sphere ........................................................................................................... 1

    Step 18: Diagram .......................................................................................................... 1

    Step 19: Time to play ....................................................................................................... 1

    Step 20: In action .......................................................................................................... 1

    Related Instructables ........................................................................................................ 1

    Comments ................................................................................................................ 1

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    Author:nickademuss author's website

    A+ certified with a degree in electronics engineering, and professional photographer using Nikon digital and f ilm cameras for many years.

    Intro: 900,000 volt Van de Graaff Generator Using Cheap PartsLets build a 900,000+ volt Van de Graaff generator!!

    I built this one in about a week, using scrap parts from a sewing machine and materials ordered from http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml

    I have seen the larger machines in operation at my local science museum and this one does just as well. I have made hair stand on end and even pie pans float up anoff the machine.

    For an explanation of operation go to Wikipedia:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Van_de_Graaff_generator

    ALSO, note that this machine can generate enough static to stop a pacemaker and any other digital device, keep people with heart problems away. Also i f you dont wto blow up you sensitive electronic devices make sure you either use the machine on a separate circuit or unplug everything you want to keep. I have also stoppedwatches and killed cell phones with it. The current is low around 27micro amps but that's a thousand times whats needed to kill say your flat screen TV or pc/laptop.

    Well if your know anything about Van de Graaffs you know that the bigger and smoother the sphere or collector the bigger the charge. Any bump or lip on the sphere all the charge will run to it and bleed off.

    You see the voltage is determined by how much you can store on the surface of the dome, sphere, collector. I used a 12" stainless steel garden gazing ball. I bought ifrom a garden supply center for $40.00. it throws faint sparks around 12" and strong bright ones at 8" to a grounded door knob. That's 883,920 volts by the calculator 4350 volts per millimeter.

    The recharge rate or time i t takes to build up a charge high enough to jump from the sphere is determined by belt speed and width.

    I used an art program to generate some diagrams and several pics of the completed unit, its a simple mechanism and you could upscale it for a larger machine easilytopping 1,000,000 volts. all you need to do it increase the sphere size and belt width.

    This one is an upscale version that I used to test equipment at work and I used the little one to determine the best belt material.I tried plastic tape, rubber, fabrics, and the hands down best was a plastic coated fabric used in hotel shower curtains. Its easy to cut and glue and lasts for a long timeThe charge it carries was easily 50% better than everything I tried.

    Also to get the most of your machine you will need to get your hands on some Teflon and some nylon to make the rollers out of. I ordered mine from Granger (links inparts list) I used the Teflon for the top and nylon for the bottom or drive roller. You can also get the Teflon from stacking little half inch thick disks cut with a 2" diametehole saw from cutting boards. You could also make the top and bottom roller out of the same material and coat the top roller wi th Teflon tape.

    Also if you want to boost your storage and spark a bit build this:Leyden jar of DOOM!

    I will try to list as many tips threw this process as I can. Its been several years since I built the machine and its worked well so far.

    Enjoy,Zachary M.

    Clinton, TN

    Next up a parts list......

    http://www.instructables.com/id/900000-volt-Van-de-Graaff-Generator-using-cheap-p/http://www.instructables.com/id/Leyden_jar_of_DOOM/http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Van_de_Graaff_generatorhttp://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtmlhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/22560053@N04/http://member/nickademuss/http://member/nickademuss/
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    Image Notes1. Use at least an eight foot cord to keep it away from everything2. its 3.75' tall

    Step 1:Parts List (give or take a few items...)Sphere-- Garden gazing ball, stainless (glass or plastic will not work)4" PVC sewer pipe 24" long4" PVC sewer pipe coupling2" Diameter 2.75" long Teflon roller Grainger Item # 2NJA2 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2NJA22" Diameter 2.75" long Nylon roller Grainger Item # 1UTY5 http://www.grainger.com12" x 12" plywood 3/4" thick12" x 18" plywood 3/4" thick1/2" all thread (threaded rod) you will need enough to make four pieces 9" long.1/2" nuts for the all thread, you will need 16 of them also 16 washers4/40 by 1" bolts I used about 10 of themPower switch, 120v 5ampSheet of copper, I got mine at the hobby store 9 or copper roof flashing at a hardware store.box of stick pins3/4 inch copper pipe around 14" long (I would get at least two feet so you have leverage to bend it)120volt power cord

    120volt sewing machine motor with drive pulley and belt. (mine was from a Brother) Or Usehttp://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2M033 and Small pulley Granger P1X45912" x 12" PVC sheet 1/4" thick (thick plexi glass will work just as well, and look cool to!)Axel for top and bottom rollers (whatever you can find, I pulled mine from the sewing machine)120v panel light, optionalPVC glueSuper Glue medium thickness for the beltVinyl covered fabric for belt (shower curtain or cheap strap)

    http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2M033http://www.grainger.com/http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2NJA2
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    Image Notes1. Power switch housing, you can also add a grounded lug here to plug in your discharge wand2. AC motor, mine was from a sewing machine3. all thread supports4. Copper pipe ring5. 12" stainless steel garden gazing ball. Use a larger one for more voltage but they get pricey the larger you go...

    Step 2:Belt Material and were to get it!I had several questions about the belt material, and its the most important piece to the VDG next to the sphere.

    What you need is 18 oz. Vinyl Coated Polyester

    A very tough mesh fabric that is coated with vinyl making it waterproof with a high resistance to dirt, mildew, oil, salt, chemicals and UV. Outstanding strength. Made otop quality materials, will not tear, stretch, crack, rot or mildew. May be sewn or glued with HH-66 vinyl cement.

    Were you can get it!!!

    They have a 42 oz. version but I have not tried it.

    I got mine in white, almost all the black materials I tested didn't do so well.

    http://www.seattlefabrics.com/vinyl.html#Clear%20Vinyl%20Laminated%20Polyester
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    Image Notes1. mesh can vary but as long as it has fabric in it, no stretching will occur. Theback side is slicker

    Image Notes1. mesh can vary but as long as its got the fabric in it it wont stretch to bad.

    Step 3:Tools needed (give or take again...)Drill with bitsTable saw or equivalent (skill saw)Wrench'sDremel toolscissorsTorch(optional but makes it work better)screw driver for what ever screws you use...Hole saw or jigsaw

    hack sawsoldering iron w/solder

    Image Notes1. all computer generated pics done with the Bryce program

    Step 4:Building the base Step 1Cut out your plywood base like the pic, or as long as you keep the top and bottom the same size you can make i t whatever shape you want, it will be up to you todetermine if you can fit the motor in it.The top piece is 12" square with the hole centered in it. I recommend laying the two pieces on top of each other and drilling the four support bolt holes at the same tim

    so they line up perfectly.

    Image Notes1. I used whatever was lying around, this was the low grade ply, you can use 1/2" as long as its good quality2. I made these holes over sized a bit to allow for play3. I painted mine at this step because it was really crappy wood, I think I would like to build another one and stain it to give it an old look...4. if you can find a short belt for the motor and want to make this shorter you can...

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    Step 5:Base step 2Cut a couple of 3/4" rings off of the PVC coupler and glue one of them to your main PVC pipe using PVC glue about three inches up one end.

    After it dries, fit it threw the hole in the top piece of plywood and glue the bottom ring on to hold it in place.

    Get it as tight as you can and it wont slip on you.

    Image Notes

    1. cut as square as you can so i t will sit level, I uses a band saw, you can cut witha hand saw just mark it and take your time.2. if you dont get these as close to the wood as you can it will rock around, notgood...

    Image Notes1. 4" PVC coupler you can cut several rings from this little 1.00 part available amost hardware stores

    Step 6:Base, step 3Next cut the all thread to 9" lengths and assembly like in the pic.The reason I made it this was was so that you can adjust the belt tension and level the top roller to the bottom roller. You dont have to bolt the top on permanently justyet, you need to add the motor and and comb.

    Image Notes1. you can tighten these up against each other to secure the bolt, not to tight you can crush the wood, use large washers to prevent this.2. all thread is at most hardware stores, you will need a hacksaw to cut it and a file or your moto tool to round it so that the matching nuts fit.3. id put some rubber feet on it, or it will scratch your table...

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    Step 7:Base step 4look at the pics and cut the PVC sheet to make a small box for the roller to ride in. I used the shaft and bearing from the sewing machine. I added a couple of screws thold in the comb.

    A note on the combs both of them the top and bottom ones are nothing more than stick pins soldered in sheet copper. about 1/4" apart. the sharper the better. the bottone is wired directly to ground.the top one is touching a spring that contacts the sphere.

    Image Notes1. I used 4/40 bolts for this from a hobby store2. Use a ball bearing to make it last longer, I would also drill the holes for bothsides at the same time so they are level.3. nylon roller, you can also use bed rollers for this, but the larger the diameteryou get the better it worked for me.4. I glued and screwed these three pieces together, it will be under allot of stress.

    Image Notes1. BOTTOM COMB, its just clamped here so you can adjust it up and down.

    2. I covered my all thread bolts with wire loom to make it look a little better3. this type of motor clamp is easy and allows for you to move the motoraround to tighten the belt.4. you could also use a fan motor, just make sure you use a small pulley, tomuch speed will tear your belt up.

    Image Notes1. comb assembly, simply a row of pins soldered to a copper sheet andgrounded. get as close to the belt as you can. it worked best for me to position itjust above the separation point of the roller and belt2. pulley will turn counter clock wise as viewed from this side of the machine

    3. belt from sewing machine, any large O-ring can work as well

    Image Notes1. I used 4/40 bolts for this from a hobby store

    2. Use a ball bearing to make it last longer, I would also drill the holes for bothsides at the same time so they are level.3. nylon roller, you can also use bed rollers for this, but the larger the diameteyou get the better it worked for me.4. I glued and screwed these three pieces together, it will be under allot ofstress.

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    Step 8:Base step 5Next add the motor and pully, then the comb on the back side of the roller, later when you put the belt on you can flex the soft copper of the comb to adjust the spacebetween the roller and the pins, the closser the more charge gets transferred.

    Image Notes1. comb assembly, simply a row of pins soldered to a copper sheet and grounded.get as close to the belt as you can. it worked best for me to position it just abovethe separation point of the roller and belt2. pulley will turn counter clock wise as viewed from this side of the machine3. belt from sewing machine, any large O-ring can work as well

    Step 9:Base step 5 another viewMechanical side of the base completed

    Image Notes1. tip, if you paint the plywood do all sides it will warp if you dont due to moister in the air.

    Step 10:Base step 5 picNote: the motor and bottom pulley needs to turn counter clock wise in the pic below.

    The belt and matching pulleys came from the sewing machine.

    The aluminum box I mounted the bottom pulley to is just a spacer, you don't have to build yours that way.

    I made my motor clamp out of a couple of bolts and a scrap piece of metal with two holes drilled in it.

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    Image Notes1. BOTTOM COMB, its just clamped here so you can adjust it up and down.2. I covered my all thread bolts with wire loom to make it look a little better3. this type of motor clamp is easy and allows for you to move the motor around totighten the belt.4. you could also use a fan motor, just make sure you use a small pulley, to muchspeed will tear your belt up.

    Step 11:Base (comb and bottom roller)The bottom comb position in relation to the bottom roller is shown below.

    Note that the roller will be turning counter clock wise and that the pins are just above were the belt will leave the roller.

    Image Notes1. roller will be moving counter clockwise2. I soldered a wire to the comb on one end and attached that to earth ground3. tip: use a nail to make starter holes in your copper, then put all of them in and stick the whole thing into some soft wood to hold all the pins wile you solder it. Youmay need flux or to ruff up the heads of the pins with sand paper.

    Step 12:Base step 6Wire up the motor, power cable and switch, please shield everything and use a three wire power cable so you can ground it.

    I had a left over modem case that I put my power switch in, you can use whatever you like as long as you shield it.

    Note: after operation, if you dont discharge the sphere you can get a shock from the power switch.

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    Image Notes1. plastic power distribution hook ups to make it neat and safe, I wired everything to it. I got these at an electronic supply center, simply a landing place for yourwires, I hate wire nuts, they start fires so use these.2. wire loom and zip ties to keep it in place3. This is the bottom Comb, use the heaviest grounding wire you can, I used 8 gauge wire from a car amp.4. another bearing and a slot cut above the shaft to allow you to take the roller out with ease5. dust!!! you will need to clean your belt regularly, I use alcohol, LET IT DRY before you turn it on.

    Step 13:Time for the top 1Make the top comb as shown, its just a set of pins that need to be held next to the side of the belt just before it touches the top roller. the long tale of copper is to make

    spring to touch the inside of the sphere as close the middle as possible.

    I put to 4/40 bolts in the top of the machine for this assembly to sit on, this is a very loose design, just get it close without touching the belt and it will grab a great charg

    Image Notes1. I folded the copper to make it strong enough to stand up2. I used very cheap low grade plywood so I painted it :)

    Step 14:Assemble The BeltI used a piece of string to measure how long the belt needed to be, and I also left the top deck lowered about an inch so I could tighten the belt up later.

    I recommend cutting the belt as pictured below, then gluing a patch over it . I put mine on some wax paper so I could use allot of glue and not stick it to my table. Thepatch I made was "V" shaped and about 3/4" wider than the seam. See pic in step 15 as well.

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    Image Notes1. cut in a "V" pattern to make it run smoother, if you just made it a flat cut themachine with make a thump thump thump sound

    Step 15:Top rollerI used the rest of the sheet PVC (you could also use Plexiglas) I made a slot for the belt to come threw and used some scrap plastic to hold up the top roller.

    Image Notes1. I made this adjustable as well to peak it out2. I used more 4/40 bolts to hold down the top assembly, simply use tape to hold it drill some small pilot holes and bolt it down.3. I used a band saw to cut it round and sandpaper to smooth i t, you could use hard wood too. I cut the center out using my trusty dremel with a roto zip bit.4. copper needs to reach the center of the sphere, this one is eight inches long.

    Step 16:Top roller another view and belt construction.NOTE the way I cut the belt in a "V" shape and used another piece to cover it, that way you wont have a lump in the belt. I measured for the belt and made it as wide acould without it slapping the sides when its running. The teflon is so slick I didnt use bearings on the top! its just a solid non turning shaft. The belt is 1.75" wide. Not suhow long.

    After you have cut and glued the belt, you can put it on, you simply use the four support bolts to tighten it up, don't go to far you just want it tight enough to spin, and nslap the side of the column when i ts up to speed, this will kill your charge. If your belt does not track right you can fix that by moving one side of the supports up a littlea time, go slow and make the belt center in the rollers. You can also "crown" one of your rollers, that is to make i t "keg" shaped. The downside to this is that you lose alittle surface contact and in turn a little recharge power.

    Optional: you can make the top roller adjustable as well to help center the belt.

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    Image Notes1. cut in a "V" pattern to make it run smoother, if you just made it a flat cut the machine with make a thump thump thump sound

    Step 17:SphereUse a Dremel tool with a good cutting disk and cut a 4.5 inch hole your sphere and make sure it fits.Take your time and cut slowly, the woven carbide disks worked best.

    The first time I fired mine up it worked but had allot of sparks jumping from the bottom of the sphere, to solve or help this problem I fitted a copper ring for the sphere toon. This will fold the charge back up to it. If you dont have a pipe bender tape one end of the pipe shut, fill it with water and freeze it that way you wont kink it wile handbending it.

    After I got the copper ring bent in a circle I cut it and clamped it, so it could be soldered with the torch

    I also cut several more 1/2 inch tall rings off the coupler and put them on the column, this keeps the voltage from creeping down.

    Also make the sphere sit as high on the column as you can without losing contact with the comb inside, my sphere is around 4" down the column.

    Image Notes1. make the copper ring as flat as you can, you will still lose a little voltage here but nothing like not having one. This bit of metal was the hardest to make for me, Ididn't have a pipe bender, so by more copper pipe than you need, you will need the leverage. you can also use the PVC pipe and bend it around it.

    Step 18:Diagram1= dome

    2= collector comb3= top teflon roller4=upward side of belt positive charge5-downward side of belt, negative charge6=bottom nylon roller7=bottom comb8=grounded ball9= SPARK!!!!!!!!!

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    Image Notes

    1. image from Wikipedia

    Step 19:Time to playMake sure the subject, in this case me, is standing on something insulated and have them touch the sphere, then turn on the machine, hair will stand.

    You will also get a great effect on a humid summer night out side in total darkness, you can view the plasma coming from you and the sphere.

    Also once its running good, tape a thumb tack with the point out to the top of the sphere, watch the plasma jet from it.

    take five pie pans and stack them on top of the sphere and turn it on, one by one they will f loat up and fly off the machine.

    Hold a florecent tube in your hand near it, it will glow! (you will get a few sparks to you doing this be ready and dont drop the bulb)

    I would build a discharge wand to, or stick with a metal ball on the end that's grounded to the machine. You can use a large tin foil ball and a good insulated wire.

    You can take it a step further with a leyden jar like the one here:Leyden jar of DOOM!

    Just be careful with any leyden jar they let you store enough current to cause you serious harm.

    Also it will hold a charge for sometime after you turn it off. So discharge it before your curious cat looks at his reflection and gets popped in the nose like mine.....

    Image Notes1. Tip, if you touch someone wile they are in this state you and them will get shocked. And I dont recommend holding hands with several people and touching agrounded object, it hurts, ALLOT2. Tip: if your going to touch the sphere with your hands, point your knuckle at it, you have less nerves there, it hurts less (-:3. Fact: a high voltage hit like from a VDG is said to kill most small organisms on the surface of your body.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/Leyden_jar_of_DOOM/
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    Step 20:In action3 min, exposure in a dark room, the other ball is grounded and attached to a stick.

    See it and other photos that I have taken here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/22560053@N04/Nickademusss Photo Stream

    Most of the best visuals with a Van De Graaff are in a dark room, the light is subtle.

    Enjoy email with questions :)

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    Comments

    50 comments Add Comment view all 289 commen

    BG2 says: Mar 12, 2011. 9:30 PM REPI have the belt off an old treadmill... Would that work?

    florinandrei says: Dec 10, 2010. 6:26 PM REPWhat was exactly the diameter of the copper ring, compared to the hole in the steel ball?

    I mean, where was the edge of the hole, in relation to the uppermost part of the copper ring? Was it inside (so the ring is kind of "surrounding" the hole)?Was it outside? Was it so the edge of the hole is sitting exactly on the top of the ring?

    nickademuss says: Dec 23, 2010. 11:06 PM REPThe sphere's hole is just large enough to fit over the pipe, the copper ring was wrapped around the same pipe, so the inside diameter of the copper tubis the same as the outside diameter of the pipe.

    marcfiam says: Dec 14, 2010. 2:44 PM REPI don't know the specific answer for the model in this instructable, but in general in Van de Graafs you want to minimize all what is a proeminent edges,as electrical charges leave from any sharp or small radius conducting element.This is why in my model I moved the support of the ball inside the sphere to avoid electrical losses.

    marcfiam says: Oct 26, 2010. 12:35 PM REPSee detailed pictures of my VDG and small video on my homepage here

    http://marc.fiammante.free.fr/

    I used garden decoration balls, a cheap bench grinder, a plexiglass pipe so it is t ransparent.I lathed the wheel myself from nylon and teflon I bougth.I made the belt out of neoprene.Plastic gears and a few ball bearing.

    Will post a google "Sketchup" detail 3D model of it soon. Free 3D tool from google.

    nickademuss says: Dec 9, 2010. 3:55 PM REPVery clean design, I like the plastic gears driving the bottom roller, Mine will slip when its under load, that wouldnt.

    marcfiam says: Dec 10, 2010. 12:11 AM REPThank you, I plan to replace the grooved pulleys wi th crowned pulleys which will then allow be to use latex belts.Suprisingly crowned pulleys keep the belt centered even with softer material like latex.

    Good video explanation of crowned pulleys herehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sM0Qjumyro

    marcfiam says: Oct 30, 2010. 9:29 AM REPThe Van de Graaf google sketchup model can be downloaded from my sitehttp://marc.fiammante.free.fr/ . Requires Google Sketchup 3D modeling free version available here from Googlehttp://sketchup.google.com/intl/fr/download/index.html .Use the free version not the pro.

    psych0s0c1al says: Oct 19, 2010. 3:02 PM REPI'm doing one of these for a science fair project, but I'm making a different, cheaper version. I'm just wondering what is the biggest factor in how powerful thwill be? I would like it to be powerful enough to make hair stand up. From what I understand, the output terminal is one of the biggest factors, as well as theroller material?

    seansippo says: Jan 27, 2010. 10:48 PM REPi wazs wondering if you couldd help f igure out how to get my generator working, it was laying around at my old school not working and they let me have it.all it needs is a belt of some kind to connect the rollers and i am having some problem with the metal located on the upper part near the sphere. could youhelp me?

    nickademuss says: Jan 28, 2010. 8:45 PM REPSure, whats the model number, most schools buy one from a science supply?

    seansippo says: Jan 28, 2010. 9:17 PM REPi would have to check. imm just wondering what would be a good belt for it and metal on top for friction. thats what a metal piece is on top for rightif anything ill use you design and use the 2 rollers and the motor from this old one.

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    nickademuss says: Jan 30, 2010. 12:35 PM REPThe best belt I have found is listed in the belt section of this instructable.

    If you can locate a maker on your VDG they may be able to order a belt from them.

    As for the collector combs on the top of the VDG inside the sphere, they do not touch the belt.

    It does not use friction to generate static.

    webbr2 says: Oct 4, 2010. 4:46 PM REPthanks just starting to get my materials want to get all the right stuff to maney sights to look at want to get it right

    webbr2 says: Oct 4, 2010. 4:40 PM REPi work in fabrication at work what would be the best belt to use for friction on brushes i can get things at work that they throw away every da

    nitrous says: Jun 25, 2010. 8:00 PM REPActually, the VDG does use friction, just not in collecting the charge. The friction is between the belt and the roller material. If I recall correctit is the choice of material for the rollers that determines whether the sphere is +ve or -vely charged. Similarly, the rollers must be of dissimilmaterials, preferrably on opposite ends of the triboelectric scale(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triboelectric_effect). The Nylon roller is +ve andTeflon is relatively "high" on the -ve end of the scale. So, while there is no direct contact between the belt and the collectors, it is friction thagenerates that charge. Great Instructable! Thanks n|trous

    seansippo says: Jan 30, 2010. 5:27 PM REPok, so i want the metal close, just not touching the belt. the model number is SC21 series 3925. the problem im now having is the belt keemoving to the left and wont stay in one place. the belt im currently using is the yellow do not cross police tape type stuff. i remember it once

    worked before with this stuff and such, my problem is its just been sitting around in a closet for a few years now and i now decided to get it oagain.

    nickademuss says: Jan 31, 2010. 9:49 PM REPyes the metal is just close to the belt, It sounds like your rollers are not parallel to each other or the column is not strait up and down...

    seansippo says: Feb 1, 2010. 12:10 AM REPi doubt it, its more likely the belt. like i said, its a professionally made one, unless it got twisted in the closet or something.

    metamedian says: Aug 22, 2010. 7:33 PM REPHi, I'm making a van de graaff generator based on your specifications, thanks! How long does it take to collect enough charge fort he "hair-raising"experiment? Thanks!

    mjfrederick says: Jan 13, 2010. 5:10 PM REPAny ideas to stop sphere from vibrating? We just finished our generator last night (we worked all night long) and we were very happy that it works well togenerate static and nice sparks ! However, I am wondering two things. First, our sphere vibrates and spins quite a bit making it difficult to put any thing likpie tins on top of it and expect them to stay on until a charge is collected-as the vibration alone ejects them. True that the come off with a trajectorysuggesting that there was both a charge and gravity at play, but still it would be less confounding if the sphere wasnt vibrating and turning so much. Doesanyone have ideas how to keep the sphere more stable while the generator runs? Also, did anyone find a solution to keep from getting shocked by an on/switch. We wired our switch so that it interrupts the neutral AC wire (white wire) on the way to the AC motor. I dont think you can join the neutral to earthground from the AC (i.e, the third green wire from AC cord). Thanks.

    Syncopator says: Jun 18, 2010. 8:02 AM REPThe switch should be in the line, not the neutral. Better still, use a double pole switch and interrupt both line and neutral.

    bobslau says: Nov 15, 2009. 6:48 AM REP

    Copper pipe is sold by nominal sizes which are not the actual sizes. Did you use 3/4" nominal which is actually 0.875 outside diameter, or 1/2" nominalwhich is actually 0.625 outside diameter?

    Also, there is hard copper pipe, which is very hard to bend, and soft copper pipe, which is easy to bend. I had a hard time finding the soft per foot (astandard roll is over $100), but finally found it at http://www.statesupply.com/displayCategory.do?Id=2223.

    nickademuss says: Nov 16, 2009. 6:10 PM REPIused the soft 3/4" pipe, The larger the diameter the beter, just harder to bend. Thanks for posting the site.

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    rmelchiori says: Mar 19, 2010. 11:49 AM REPCould you use copper tubing instead of copper pipe? Tubing comes in a roll and is very easy to bend.

    nickademuss says: May 20, 2010. 9:08 PM REPyep

    bobslau says: Mar 19, 2010. 8:33 PM REPYes. I call copper tubing soft copper pipe. You can only bend the pipe (hard pipe with great effort and then it kinks.

    Syncopator says: Jun 3, 2010. 6:47 PM REPA cousin who worked as an apprentice at a famous British engineering companyhttp://www.localhistory.scit.wlv.ac.uk/Museum/Engineering/JohnThompson/johnthompson00.htm#menuasked me if I knew the differencebetweena pipe and a tube. He was taught that onewas rolled and therefore had a seam, the other is drawn and therefore doesn't have aseam. I can't remembernow which is which.Apparently this basic distinction is no longer taughtor passed on. The resultis that there is great confusion and noone knowsthe facts anymore.

    nickademuss says: Mar 29, 2010. 8:33 AM REPHmm, good idea, It was a pain in the rear to do it the way I did. Oh well live and learn....

    malsa says: Feb 5, 2010. 10:35 AM REPhii am confused about where the negative charge comes from and do you make a hole in the sphere for the copper wire to come through and how and howand why do you do step 17?

    nickademuss says: Mar 29, 2010. 8:45 AM REPThe charge is dragged from the earth ground by the constant belt movement, step 17 is done to prevent leakage of the high voltage.

    High voltage will run to any raised part or lip on the sphere and cast off to the air.

    theboy95 says: Mar 7, 2010. 7:27 PM REPcgi.ebay.com/SIX-6-75-INCH-CERAMIC-INSULATOR-TESLA-STANDOFF-HAM_W0QQitemZ350322165462QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomainannother good roller is a ham radio standoff (ceramic) on ebay

    seansippo says: Feb 2, 2010. 8:04 PM REP

    do i want the bottom comb touching, or like the top one where it is close as possible without touching the belt?

    codongolev says: Dec 16, 2008. 1:04 PM REPwhere is that picture (second step) taken?

    merseyless says: Dec 20, 2008. 7:48 PM REPthat picture was taken in the land of shiny and clean. bow before i ts perfectness.

    Foxtrot70 says: Jan 30, 2010. 6:37 PM REPI'm not worthy...I'm not worthy...I'm not worthy...

    nickademuss says: Jan 11, 2009. 6:00 AM REPLOL

    codongolev says: Jan 11, 2009. 12:00 PM REPLO freaking L

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  • 7/27/2019 900000 Volt Van de Graaff Generator Using Cheap p

    18/18

    codongolev says: Dec 16, 2008. 1:05 PM REP...or is it a 3D image?

    nickademuss says: Dec 16, 2008. 1:13 PM REPI made it and others with the Bryce art program (:

    Sharku says: Dec 18, 2008. 4:17 PM REPBryce is cool.... i like C4D better ... great 'ible :}

    msweston says: Dec 16, 2008. 6:33 PM REPI always use this... it like a second photoshop, kinda

    codongolev says: Dec 17, 2008. 1:28 PM REPI use gimp. I think it's stupid when I say "I used gimp" and then they're like "well I have PHOTOSHOP!!!" . because then all I think of is"great... so you have what I have except you paid for it."

    msweston says: Dec 17, 2008. 1:57 PM REPGIMP is cool for doing text effects, I learned about it from a friend and it has grown on me over time... though I hevnt used it in a while

    codongolev says:Dec 17, 2008. 2:10 PM REP

    I just recently used it to make a family crest as an english project (researching romeo and juliet, see) and it was pretty sweet. I alsoused it to make a symbol for a country that I made up (aweswania.). it included fire breathing lions.

    msweston says: Dec 17, 2008. 2:25 PM REPI tend to combine a lot of programs like Paint.net, GIMP, (sometimes even PPT 2007 because of the good text effects) andPhotoshop. Each program has their strength and sometimes it works well to do that (I repeat sometimes) But yeah, its cool...

    codongolev says: Dec 18, 2008. 10:42 AM REPI usualy combine just microsoft paint (hey, sometimes it IS the best program for some stuff) microsoft picture it! (came on mycomputer) and gimp.

    msweston says: Dec 18, 2008. 2:01 PM REPagreed

    codongolev says: Dec 18, 2008. 2:20 PM REPagreed with what? that microsoft paint is sometimes the best program?

    msweston says: Dec 19, 2008. 12:56 PM REPyup

    view all 289 comments

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