Contents9

On the Road 4

Laos Highlights 5

Destination Laos 11

Getting Started 13

Itineraries 18

History 23

The Culture 43

Food & Drink 61

Environment 72

Vientiane & Around 83VIENTIANE 84History 84Orientation 84Information 85Dangers & Annoyances 89Sights 89Activities 97Monument to Mekong Cycling Tour 98Courses 99Festivals & Events 100Sleeping 100Eating 104Drinking 109Entertainment 110Shopping 112Getting There & Away 113Getting Around 116AROUND VIENTIANE 118Phu Khao Khuay NPA 118Vientiane to Vang Vieng 120

Land of a Million Elephants 121

Vang Vieng 130Vang Vieng Towards Luang Prabang 139

Northern Laos 141LUANG PRABANG & AROUND 143Luang Prabang 143Around Luang Prabang 169THE MIDDLE MEKONG 171Huay Xai (Hoksay) 172Around Huay Xai 177Pak Beng 179Tha Suang 181Hongsa 181Muang Ngeun 182Luang Prabang to Sainyabuli 183Sainyabuli (Xaignabouri) 183South of Sainyabuli 186XIENG KHUANG & HUA PHAN PROVINCES 187Phu Khoun to Phonsavan 189Phonsavan 189Around Phonsavan 193Sam Neua (Xam Neua) 196Around Sam Neua 199Sam Neua to Vietnam 201Sam Neua to Nong Khiaw 201MUANG NGOI DISTRICT 204Nong Khiaw 204Muang Ngoi Neua (Ban Ngoi Kao) 207Around Muang Ngoi 208NORTHWESTERN LAOS 209Udomxai (Oudomsay, Muang Xai) 209Around Udomxai 213Boten 215Luang Namtha (Namtha) 216Around Luang Namtha 221Luang Namtha to Muang Sing 223Muang Sing 223West of Muang Sing 226PHONGSALI PROVINCE 227Pak Nam Noi 227Muang Khua 227Pak Nam Noi to Phongsali 230Phongsali 231Around Phongsali 233North of Boun Neua 235

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

10 C O N T E N T S

Index 369

GreenDex 375

Map Legend 376

Glossary 362

The Authors 364

Behind the Scenes 366

Central Laos 237BOLIKHAMSAI & KHAMMUAN PROVINCES 239Paksan 239Paksan to Lak Sao 240Lak Sao 243Tha Khaek 244Around Tha Khaek 249SAVANNAKHET PROVINCE 254Savannakhet 254Around Savannakhet 259Dong Phu Vieng NPA 262Phu Xang Hae NPA 262Sepon (Xepon) & the Ho Chi Minh Trail 263

Southern Laos 265CHAMPASAK PROVINCE 267Pakse 267Around Pakse 275Champasak 276Wat Phu Champasak 278Don Daeng 281Uo Moung (Tomo Temple) 282Kiet Ngong & Ban Phapho 283Se Pian NPA 285Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) 285Bolaven Plateau 298SALAVAN PROVINCE 301Tat Lo 301Salavan 303Around Salavan 304SEKONG PROVINCE 304Sekong (Muang Lamam) 306Around Sekong 306ATTAPEU PROVINCE 307Attapeu (Samakhi Xai) 308Around Attapeu 310Dong Amphan NPA 311

Directory 312

Transport 332

Health 345

Language 355

CentralLaos p238

Laos p266Southern

Around p86Vientiane &

Northern Laos p144

Regional Map Contents

RaiTo Chiang

To Nan

Gulf

Tonkinof

Mek

ong

River

River

Mekong

LUANGPRABANG

UDOMXAI(OUDOMXAY)

LUANGNAMTHA

(NAMTHA)

BOKEO

PHONGSALI

HUA PHAN

BOLIKHAMSAI

XIENGKHUANG

VIENTIANE

SAINYABULI(XAIGNABOURI)

VIENTIANEPREFECTURE

Muang Khua

Tay TrangBoten

Nam Khan

Nam Can

Ban Phon KhamNapeBan

Hongsa

Ban Ilai

Hanoi

Haiphong

Na Meo

Son La

Sop Hao

ViengXai

DienBien Phu

Sop Hun

Pak

KhiawNong

(Ban Ngoi Kao)

Vieng Kham

Huamuang

Sam Neua(Xam Neua)

Phongsali

Ou Tai(Muang

Nyot Ou)

Boun Tai

Mohan

Na Maw

Boun Neua

Udomxai

MuangBeng

Luang

SingMuang

Mengla

Namtha(Namtha)

(Oudomsay,Muang Xai)

Tonpheung

Muang Mom

Huay Xai (Hoksay)

Xieng Kok

Vieng Phukha(Vieng Phoukha) Pak

Mong

Hat Sa

Pak Nam Noi(Sin Xai)

Muang Ngoi Neua

Cau Treo

Vinh

Nam Neun

Nam

Ban Khoun Kham(Na Hin)

PaksanPak Kading

Vieng Kham(Thang Beng)

Vieng Thong(Muang Hiam)

Saisombun

PhonsavanPhu Khoun

Huay Kham

Bolikham

KanBeung

Muang Khoun

Muang Kham

Nong Haet

(Old Xieng Khuang)

Phao

Lak Sao(Xao)

Ou

Muang Nan

Kasi

Kon

MuangNgeun

Pak Beng

Sainyabuli

Houn

Phiang

(Xaignabouri)

Pak Lai

Pak ThaChiangKhong

Pha Udom

Huay

Vang

Xieng Ngeun

Luang Prabang

Phon Hong

Vieng

Muang XengPak

Accessible indry season only

Nam Et

Phu DenDin

Nam Ha

Nam Sam

NamKading

Phou Louey

Phu KhaoKhuay

NamPhoun

(2820m)Phu Bia

21ºN

20ºN

19ºN

18ºN

Ang Nam Ngum

OuNam

Nam

Tha

SanNam

Ny

uang

Nam

Mu

an

Nam

Nam

Khan

Nam

Nam

Seuang

Nam

Ngum

Xan

CHINA

VIETNAM

MYANMAR(BURMA)

CHINA

VIETNAM

THAILAND

Border Crossing

Border Crossing

Border Crossing

Border Crossing

Sop Hun/TayTrang Border

Crossing

BorderCrossing

BorderCrossing

Border Crossing

ThaFalang

10/3908

6

6A1C

1A

1B

1C

13

2W

2E

13B

17A

3

17B

7

8

1

1

7

1013

6

4

2W

13

13

the Second Indochina War

LUANG PRABANG (p143)Unesco-listed former royal capital

packed with dazzling templesand French colonial charm VIENG XAI (p200)

Karst cliffs dotted with thecaverns that sheltered the Pathet

Lao 'government' during

PHU KHAO KHUAY NPA (p118)Forested natural reserve withwaterfalls, wild elephants and

homestay accommodation

PHONSAVAN (p189)Mysterious Plain of Jars

and shocking reminders ofthe Indochina wars

Travellers' haven

and plenty of adventure activities

VANG VIENG (p130)

with stunning karst scenery

S E A

S O U T H

C H I N A

Gulf ofThailand

Mekong

River

SEKONG

SAVANNAKHET

SALAVAN

KHAMMUAN

ATTAPEUCHAMPASAK

Lao Bao

Lakhonpeng

Ban Saphai

Muang Tha Taeng

Ban Muang

Dansavanh

Tha Falang

Nakai

Gnommalath

Se Bang Fai

Pa-am

SaisetthaKiet Ngong

Ta OngSanamsay

Ban PakbongVang Tao

Dong Ha

Dong Hoi

Tahoy

Sekong (Muang Lamam)

Cha Lo

(Xepon)Sepon

Bualapha

Na Phao

Mahaxai Mai

Sai Bua Thong

Atsaphangthong

Phin

Tumlan

Muang

SedonKhong

Vapi

Lao NgamMuang

Sanasombun

PhengLakhon

Songkhon

Xonbuli

DongBan

Paksong

Salavan

Nakhon

Saibuli

Nong Bok

Phanom

Lak 35BanMukdahan

KhaiNong

Udon Thani

Khon Kaen

Kong LoTham

Champhone

Seno (Xeno)

Tha Khaek

Savannakhet

KhanChiang

Tha Li

Sanamkhan

ThaoKaen

Utaradit

Phitsanulok

Tha Na LengVientiane

Bo Y

KeuaPhou

Attapeu(Samakhi Xai)

KhongDon

Sukhuma

MekChong

PamokBan Munla

Phonthong

Champasak

Stung Treng

Trapaeng KrielNong Khiang

Siempang

Sisophon

RatchathaniNakhon

Ratchasima

BANGKOK

PakseUbon

Border Crossing

HinNamno

Theun

Xang HePhu

Nakai-Nam

Se BanNuan

Phu XiengThong

BunPhu Hin

DongAmpham

Se Pian

Hua SaoDong

17ºN

101º

E

Dam

NamTheun

Bolaven

Si Phan Don

PlateauKaman

Se K

ong

Fai

Theun

Se Bang

Nam

Se Noi

Se Don

Se J

am

Se Pon

phon

Hin Bun

Nam

Se Kong

Se

VIETNAM

THAILAND

CAMBODIA

Border Crossing

Border Crossing

Border

Border

CrossingBorder

Crossing

CrossingBorder

CrossingBorder

Wat Phu Champasak

Crossing

Bang FaiTham Lot Se

KatamtokNam Tok

23

23B

12

8B

23B

23

15

13

99

13

18B18

13

a 7km-long cave

Dramatic karst THAM KONG LO (p242)

scenery surrounding

and barsarmful of good restaurants, cafes

handful of temples and anSleepy riverside capital with a

VIENTIANE (p84)

1500m

500m

1000m

2000m

WAT PHU CHAMPASAK (p278)

and great coffeewaterfalls, cool weather

World Heritage–listed ancienttemple in a peaceful hillside setting

Tribal villages, dramaticBOLAVEN PLATEAU (p298)

mighty Mekong rapidswith rare dolphins andSleepy river archipelagoSI PHAN DON (p285)

0

250m

ELEVATION

100 km60 miles

00

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