81770397 Starship Troopers Painting Guide

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CREDITSEditor

Richard Neale

Contributing AuthorsAdrian Walters, Brian Lasiewski, Richard Neale,

Matthew Sprange, Ian Barstow

Figure Painting & PhotographyAdrian Walters & Viktor Medora

Terrain SculptorsJesse Chen, Earl Hollembaek, Dean Hollembaek, JasonSmyrloglou, Adam Redman, Troy Arbogast, Colin Cambell,

Jason Davis, Jamie Leutz, Sam Dean, Rich Gentile, Matt

Liddic, William Zhu, Robert E Dundency, Mike Eichner,Nick Barry, Nick Payne, Micheal Salzman, Kevin Sanchez,Daniel Wakabayashi, Geremy Bambakakis, Ted Hallock,Doug Graves, Russ Wakelin, Doug Brecher, Lenny Caira,

Jonathan Reinhart, Rob Burke, Brian Lasiewski.

Miniatures ManagerIan Barstow

Production DirectorAlexander Fennell

Proofreader

Ted ChangSpecial Thanks

Jan Bakston, Richard Ford, Dick Swansong

CONTENTS

Introduction 2Painting Your Mobile Infantry 3

Painting Your Warrior Bugs 5

Modelling Starship Troopers Terrain 7

Mobile Infantry Standard Bearer 14

Assembling your M8 Marauder 16

Painting your M8 Marauder 18

Assembling your Tanker Bug 21Painting your Tanker Bug 22

The Plasma Bug 24

The XM-550 CHAS Unit 25

The Hopper Bug 26

The Reliant Weapons Platform 27

The Brain Bug 28

WASP Troopers 29Catalogue 30

PAINTING GUIDE

Starship Troopers: The Miniatures GameTM & (C) 2005 TriStar Pictures Inc. All Rights Reserved.Mongoose Publishing Ltd. Authorised User. Reproduction of any part of this work by any meanswithout the written permission of the publisher is expressly forbidden. Printed in China.

Cont ent s & Cr edi t s

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INTRODUCTION

Welcome to the Starship Troopers Miniatures GamePainting and Modelling Guide. Within the pagesof this book you will find loads of handy hints and

guides on how to make and paint our exciting rangeof Starship Troopers miniatures along with tips onconstructing scenery to make your games really look likethey are taking place on another planet.

Mongoose brush maestro Adrian Walters takes youthrough building and painting an M8 Ape Maraudersuit and the hulking tanker bug, as well as looking atthe more familiar Mobile Infantry Cap Trooper and

Arachnid warrior bug. If you ever wanted to know howone of the very top professionals goes about his business

now is your chance!

NCO rank stripes by Adrian Walters, showing whata steady hand can achieve!

Marketing manager Brian Lasiewski takes an in-depthlook at what it took to put together the stunning displayterrain that the Mongoose Infantry teams take to gamingconventions, and shows just how easy it is to replicatethe magic. Brian also has advice on starting your ownTerrain Club and what you can achieve with the help of

a few friends.

Matthew Sprange also has a new Heroic Trait rule forMobile Infantry standard bearers and Adrian shows howeasy it is to convert one if you dont have one of ourcracking limited edition miniatures.

With full page photo features on models like the brainbug and Reliant Gun Platforms, this guide is packed

with colour pictures showing you how to get the verybest out of your gaming.

From now on you will find yourself hoarding old boxes,polystyrene and a hundred other osbcure items, knowingthat together they will make up a great new piece ofterrain.

You can also get fantastic ideas by logging on to theforums at www.mongoosepublishing.com where othergamers share their experiences and tips. Its always wortha visit!

Mobile Infantry conversion and paint job by Piers Brand

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I nt r oduct i on

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PAINTING YOURMOBILE INFANTRY

What You Will Need:

Paint brush, preferably a size 0 orfine detail brush.Hobby knife.

Acrylic hobby paint (all from theexcellent Testors range: DragonBlack, Dragon White, Orc Flesh,Ghoul Flesh, Angel Green, SlimeGreen, Carrion Green, DjinniGrey, Gunmetal, Shiny Gold).Cynoacrylate (superglue). Youmay also use plastic cement.Kitchen towel.

Construction

Choose the right arm that you wantand superglue it onto the models

weapon of choice. In most cases,this is the Morita rifle. Next,match up the gun/arm assemblyto the torso. The left arm comesnext offer it up to the torso andthe weapon. Make sure its in theright position and then add glue.

Pose the helmet and fix in place.Then add the backpack (nozzlespointing downwards) and finallythe shoulder pads. The entiretop half of the model is now done(except the faceplate).

Pose the top half assembly on thelegs (assembling them if they arethe kneeling pose legs) and fix inplace. The thigh plates locate tothe two lugs moulded onto the

torso and rest on the thighs. Thecrotch plate similarly locates to therecess in the middle of the torsobottom edge. The backside plateshould locate at the rear of the torsomoulding. With all these elementsattached, all it takes to completethe M.I. Cap Trooper model is topaint it and attach the faceplate.

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1. It is always best to remove all themoulding lines from your models, the

finished results will look much better. Thelines are best removed using a hobby knifeby gently scraping them away. The modelis then primed with a black acrylic sprayundercoat. Youre now ready to paint.

2. Paint the face completely in Orc Flesh.Try to be as neat as possible, do not worry

if you make a mistake; acrylic paint driesquickly and can easily be painted over tocover any slips of the brush.

3. On all the raised areas like the nose,top lip and cheeks use the lighter GhoulFlesh. At this stage should you want toyou can add some eyes. Paint the eye areaDragon Black first, put a line of Dragon

White across the eyeball, then a spot ofDragon Black to simulate the pupil.

4. Paint all the areas you want in AngelGreen. In this example all of the armourplates and helmet have been painted AngelGreen but the undersuit has been leftblack. Dont worry too much at this stageif you get paint over bits that you wantedto be left black.

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Top Tip: Thinning Your Paints

Nearly all acrylic paints are too thick straight fromthe pot or tube. Water should be added so the paint

flows from the brush avoiding a lumpy finish, however

by adding too much it will make the paint too watery.

Experiment with the amount of water you add to get

the right consistency.

Two or three thin coats of paint always look better

than one thick one.

Pai nt i ng your Mobi l e I nf ant r y

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5. Now paint the parts already AngelGreen with Slime Green. However allthe creases, seams and gaps in the armourshould be left Angel Green. Being veryvery neat at this point will give the bestresults, the darker green left in the cracksand creases will give the illusion of shadingto the model enhancing the details.

6. You can add a further layer of CarrionGreen now should you wish. This isknown as highlighting. Add these to edgesand to areas that logically would catch thelight, adding a further illusion of depthand picking out the details even more.

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7. With Dragon Black pick out all theparts you wish to be black. This will helpto neaten the edges of the green as well.

8. Now highlight the black bits with aDjinni Grey.

9. Paint the gun and small details inGunmetal.

10. Paint the visor/peak in Shiny Gold.

11. CAREFULLY glue the clear yellowvisor in place, this is best done by applyingTINY specks of glue to each pointed edge.

12. Basing. To finish off your model glue some sand to the base using PVA glue. Thiscan then be painted in the colours of your choice. We have gone for a brown desert style.First the sand was painted in brown, then when the brown was completely dry a lighterbrown was very lightly brushed over to give a highlight using the sand itself to bring out thetexture. Job done!

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Top Tip: Painting Metallic Surfaces

Metallic paints always look better if the area is painted black first. Once the surface

has been painted, thin either some Dragon Black for silvery surfaces, or Burnt Brown for

golden surfaces to a watery consistency and paint it over the metallic surface. The watery

paint will run into the details giving the illusion of shading.

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Pai nt i ng your Mobi l e I nf ant r y

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PAINTING YOURWARRIOR BUGS

1. Heavily drybrush the whole model with HobgoblinGrey.

2. Using Dinosaur Grey drybrush again, but this timenot so heavily, leave some of the Hobgoblin Grey showing,concentrate on the joint areas.

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What You Will Need:

Paint brush, preferably a size 0 or fine detailbrush.Hobby knife.Acrylic hobby paint (all from the excellentTestors range: Dragon Black, Hobgoblin Grey,Dinosaur Grey, Djinni Grey, Lizard Brown,Bear Brown, Sol Yellow, Dragon Red, BloodeRed).Cynoacrylate (superglue). You may also useplastic cement.Kitchen towel.

Construction

First, carefully remove all of the moulding linesfrom the model parts the finished results willlook much better this way. The lines are bestgently scraped away with a sharp hobby knife.

Assemble the model by first gluing the legs to

the bottom of the torso, ensuring the legs aresuitably positioned, then glue on the top halfof the torso. Next glue the top and bottom

jaws to the head section and attach it to theleg assembly. The palpus (the small claws thatattach to the head) can be added now or later.

The entire model is now sprayed with an AcrylicBlack undercoat.

Top Tip: Drybrushing

The first three stages of painting require a technique called Drybrushing, dont

be alarmed, its very simple: Using a Flat brush or Drybrush, load it with paint

(thick paint, straight from the pot is best) then wipe most of it off onto a kitchen

towel. By passing the brush over the model, any raised areas will be picked out.

The heavier you press with the brush the more paint will be applied.

Pai nt i ng your War r i or Bugs

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5. Using Bear Brown paint the raised areas that are LizardBrown. Be careful to leave Lizard Brown in the deeperrecesses this gives the illusion of depth.

6. Highlight the highest of the raised areas (which are nowBear Brown) with Sol Yellow.

7. Add the bugs red markings now (the colour scheme usedin the Starship Troopers film has been used here). Paintthese in Dragon Red.

8. Now paint the edges and raised areas of the Dragon Redin Bloode Red.

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3. Now use the lightest grey; Djinni Grey. Again drybrusheven lighter. Concentrate just on the edges and upper partsof things. You now know how to drybrush!

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4. Using Lizard Brown paint on patches simulating theyellow patterns.

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Pai nt i ng your War r i or Bugs

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MODELLING STARSHIPTROOPERS TERRAIN

Modelling terrain for your miniaturesgames can bring new levels of enjoyment to the hobbyand enhance your overall gaming experience. In Augustof 2005, volunteers of the Mongoose Infantry, includingseveral members of the Terrain Club at Danger PlanetGames and Hobbies (a Mongoose Infantry retail demo teamstore) designed and built several amazing tables and terrainfeatures to serve as the backdrop for our Starship Trooperstournament at that years Gen Con gaming convention inIndianapolis.

Since unveiling, this terrain has appeared in several reviews,

articles and forums across the Internet and we have receivedcountless requests for information asking how it wasconstructed. As promised, we now present you with someof the method behind our madness. In the following pagesyou will discover not only the process by which this terrain

was constructed but also the inspiration and considerationsthat carried it to completion.

A WHOLE GALAXY TO CHOOSE FROMThe Milky Way galaxy consists of about 200 billion stars,many with systems of planets orbiting around them. This

provides a staggering array of terrain modelling possibilitiesfor your games of Starship Troopers. With numerousestablished references to draw ideas from including thenovel, movies and television series, settings such as thefrigid wastes of Pluto, the aquatic expanse of Hydora or the

hostile deserts of Klendathu are by now familiar to manyStarship Troopers fans as staples of the ever-expandingStarship Troopers universe. We sought to continue thisexpansion by basing the development of our Gen Contables on settings defined in Book One of the Blaze of Glorygraphic novel series by Mongoose Publishing.

Six new tables were designed for this project and Blaze of Glorypresented us with a wealth of material from whichto draw inspiration. The tables would be thematicallylinked to each other by the inclusion of prominent keyterrain features, such as the Alamar Bay defensive perimeter

wall, the wreckage of the Normandy Beach starship, andothers suggested by the graphic novel. Recurring secondaryterrain elements, such as hills and rock formations, wouldfurther reinforce the overall presentation of these tables. Toget us started, we needed to identify and decide what ourprominent and secondary terrain features would be.

After some brainstorming, we settled on the final themes foreach individual table. The first would prominently featurethe Alamar Bay Research Station defensive wall. Thesecond and third tables would be themed around a debrisfield created by the wreckage of the Normandy Beach. The

fourth table would depict a battle scene. The fifth tablewould feature prominent peaks and valleys, while the sixthand final table would serve as a generic desert.

Model l i ng Ter r ai n

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Ultimately we decided to build our tables intwo-foot by four-foot (60cm x 120cm) sectionsthat could be laid side by side.

Each table is coated with textured wall paintto produce a sandy, ground-like appearance.

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FROM THE GROUND UPBefore designing any terrain, the first thing to consider isthe table surface itself. Realising that we had to transportsix tables, we needed to make them reasonably portable. Asingle four-foot by six-foot (120cm x 180cm) board wouldbe difficult to manage, let alone six of them. Ultimately wedecided to build our tables in two-foot by four-foot (60cmx 120cm) sections that could be laid side by side. Thesesections were made of three-quarter inch (1.5cm) MDF(Medium Density Fibreboard) and ultimately coated withtextured wall paint to produce a sandy ground-like terrain.

Once the playing surface was underway, we beganconstruction of the secondary elements of terrain whilethe key elements were being planned. These secondaryelements included hills and rock formations.

Hills were constructed out of pink foam (extrudedpolyethylene, originally used as rigid insulation inconstruction) of various thicknesses. A serrated steak knife

was used to chisel the edges to make them look more likerock. Texture paint was applied to the tops to make themappear consistent with the main table surface.

The rock formations were intended to be a design elementthat would visually unify all of the tables in the tournament.

Regardless of what the key terrain elements would be on aparticular table, thanks to the hills and rock formations,each table would appear to be part of the same planet.The rocks themselves were constructed of wood bark chipstypically used in landscaping or gardening. One-eighth ofan inch (0.5cm) marker board was cut, shaped and usedas the bases for the rocks. Terrain Club members had a

great deal of fun coming up with various arrangements forthe rocks. Whether standing on edge, lying flat or stackedinto arches, each member of the club contributed their ownunique style to the overall assembly process.

From the very beginning it was decided that the terrainfeatures on each of the tables would not be static. Bydesigning the terrain to be mobile a much wider varietyof battlefield conditions could be configured for futuregames. Therefore, none of the hills or rock formations werepermanently connected to the table surface.

REMEMBER THE ALAMOThe Alamar Bay research station was renamed AlamoBay by the Mobile Infantry troopers stationed there afterbeing surrounded by an advancing Arachnid horde with noavenue of retreat. Being that the bulk of the installation

was built into a mountainside we opted to focus our effortson the defensive perimeter wall.

The scale of the model was determined following carefulmeasurements of the structure as seen in the graphic novel

when compared in reference to featured Mobile Infantry

troopers. Once the scale was determined a floor plan wasdrafted to serve as a construction blueprint. Despite addingcomplexity to the design, it was decided that the wall wouldbe constructed in modular four-inch (1.2cm) sections.Structure points could be assigned to each module, allowingfor breaches in the wall to be created during game play.

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These unusual rocks formations wereconstructed using bark chips typically

used in landscaping or gardening.

The visually arresting front gate ofthe Alamar Bay research station.

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Additionally, the modular nature of the wall allows it to beemployed in a variety of configurations and still be easy tostore.

Each module of the wall was based on a frame constructedof one-eighth of an inch (0.5cm) marker board. Polystyrene(a.k.a. plasti-card) sheets were cut, shaped, and used tocreate the wall textures, including each rivet which wereindividually punched and placed. This can seriouslytry anyones patience but looks really great in the end.Polystyrene sheets can be found at hobby shops and areavailable in a wide variety of thicknesses and textures.Sheets moulded with a diamond tread-plate pattern, forexample, were used to create the walkway along the wallstop edge.

The most visually arresting component of the defensiveperimeter wall is the front gate. The gate module wasdesigned as a single piece measuring approximately twelveinches (30cm) in length. Wall pieces were borrowed from aRoboTech Factory kit to become the gate doors themselves.Never underestimate the potential contributions that yourold toys and models can make to your modelling efforts!

THE NORMANDY BEACHIn Blaze of Glory, The Normandy Beach starship becomesseriously damaged before falling from orbit onto the surface

of the planet below. Although it had been agreed upon inthe earliest days of the project that the wreckage from theNormandy Beach would serve as the key terrain element onat least one of the tables, the challenge remained to visualisethe model. No one in the club had a good feeling of whatour models would look like.

The thinking was that because the ship was so large, thewreckage from its crash would not be contained within


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The completed perimeter wall.

The Terrain Clubs tables groan under the weight of the contributedparts for our new terrain, meanwhile Jason Davis and EarlHollembaek inspect the parts seeking inspiration for the wreck ofthe Normandy Beach starship.

It did not take long before our ideas took shape and the wreckagestarted taking on a life of its own, with club members adding theirown personal touches every time they visited the workshop.

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the confines of a single table. Furthermore, the sum ofthe debris would not comprise the complete ship. This

would imply that the ship, when whole, was truly massiveand that there would be even more wreckage to be foundelsewhere off-table. An additional challenge was that the

wreckage needed to be designed in such a way so as to beplayable. If the surface of the ship were built too irregularly

models would not be able to stand upon it. If pieces of thewreckage were constructed in too large a scale then theycould severely limit line of sight across the table top andunbalance the game.

Members of the creative team scoured their attics,basements, and boxes of random toys and model parts tofind possible components of the wreckage. We were lookingfor anything that would ignite the creative spark that wouldgive us the look and feel of our ship. While on a trip to anarea toy store the ultimate solution was discovered in twotoys which had been marked down for clearance. We had

found our spark, and at a discount to boot!

The first toy to contribute to our visualisation was theJustice League Watchtower play set by Mattel. The creativeteam decided that the components of this play set wouldform the main structural elements of the wreckage. Toprovide for added flexibility the Terrain Club purchasedtwo of these toys. Creative direction was offered by severalmembers of the club over the duration of the project. Fordays, pieces were strewn out over one of the groups worktables and assembled intermittently by several members ofthe team in a relatively freely evolving process. It seemed

that each day we would arrive to work on the ship to findthat another club member had added something new sinceour last visit.

The second main component to the wreckage was threeVoice Vault toys by Off Limits. This toy was intendedto serve as a secure storage device for kids to keep theirstuff, not unlike a safe. The Voice Vault comes standard

with a rolling door consistent with the look and feel ofa sci-fi cargo bay door. We were taken with this aspectimmediately. Play-wise, this terrain would allow for units tobe deployed in secret prior to the start of a scenario to serve

as surprise reserves. Finding new ways to present playerswith unexpected challenges and surprise game elements hasbecome a signature of the Terrain Clubs handiwork.

According to its original design, the Voice Vault door isvoice activated (hence its name). The club consideredincorporating this functionality into its plans by having theterrain respond to thematic exclamations such as Cmonyou Apes!, or something equally in the spirit of the game.

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The Terrain Clubs Jesse Chen begins the labourious task of paintingthe completed cargo pod, another piece of wreckage terrain fromthe Normandy Beach starship.

As Gen Con loomed ever closer, the workshop became a hive ofactivity as everyone did their part to make sure we had our terrain

finished in time. The wreckage of the Normandy Beach is alreadystarting to look magnificent. even in this unfinished state.

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We arrive at Gen Con 05 and set up our gaming tables. Here

are some close ups of the completed Normady Beach wreckage atthat show. (from the top left the severed cargo pod (closed),the severed cargo pod could reveal a nasty surpise when its doorsare opened, one of the Normandy Beachs engines, the cargo podassembly makes an impressive centrepiece to the table, the cargo

pod assemblys doors still work, despite a catastrophic atmosphericre-entry and finally, the complete Normandy Beach table.

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In consideration of the eventual painting process, whichwould involve multiple washes and spray paint effects, itwas judged that the chances of the electronics survivingthe process intact were unreliable. As a result, the originallatch mechanism was removed and replaced with a smallmagnet allowing for manual control over the doors. Theparts from the original locking mechanisms were saved and

access to the battery compartment was maintained on twoof the three vaults. One of these days we will get around totesting the electronics and finding out if they still work.

With our art direction settled, pieces and arrangementsof wreckage of varying scales were designed. After thestructural framework of these pieces was created, affixingextra parts, texture and details from our spare parts boxesembellished them. Thus, the wreckage of the NormandyBeach incorporates such notable elements as pieces of aMatrix Sentinel, an Apollo lunar module and capsule, andother toys and parts donated by members of the team and

local gaming community. Once completed, each piece ofthe wreckage terrain was mounted to a marker board baseand ground texture was applied.

SETTING THE SCENEOne of the most effective ways to keep your terrain firmlygrounded in the setting of the game is to incorporate models,or pieces of models, from the game itself in your terraindesigns. Recalling a particularly exciting multi-player gameresulting in heaps of casualties, we decided that one of thetables for Gen Con absolutely had to feature the remains of

a large-scale battle.

Starship Troopers excels at demonstrating the effectivenessof combined arms of all scales in its engagements, from thebasic side arm all the way up to strategic nuclear weapons.During the game mentioned above, the effectiveness of

the M-997 Firestorm bomb was demonstrated with suchbrutal clarity that the club constructed four bomb cratersto depict the scale of the destruction that these weaponscan deliver. By littering the table with other remnants of a

past or ongoing engagement, the feel of a Starship Troopersbattle can be conveyed before any of your models are evenset up on it.

Based on marker board, the sides of the bomb craters werebuilt up into shape with pink foam. Arachnid warriormodel pieces (including lots of extra legs) were placed intothe bottom of the craters as casualties. They were coated

with a thin layer of PVA glue and sand to give them a roughtexture that would suggest charring when we painted themlater. Finally, a mixture of PVA glue, sand and water wasapplied to the craters themselves to provide ground texture

and make the casualties appear partially buried.

The bugs are not the only ones to suffer losses duringengagements. Mobile Infantry who are not on the bouncetypically end up buying a farm in a hurry. With this inmind, the Terrain Club assembled over a dozen depictionsof SICON casualties. Lost weapon teams, brain bugvictims and even a destroyed Chickenhawk and its crew

were among the fallen the club constructed.

PAINTINGOur terrain was painted using a desert-themed palette ofbrowns, reds and oranges. The goal was to create a desertlook for our tables that had some colour to it and wouldcontrast, but not overpower, any of the models placed uponthem. Although the palette selected may at first glanceseem limited, it actually possesses a subtle depth. Forexample, there were four shades of brown used to paint thetable surfaces and hills, each applied in successively lighter

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The completed blast crater.

The blast crater takes shape.

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blends. Not all paint schemes need be this complicated.Select your paints and have fun with them!

For the club, after going through all of that work to blendeach shade of brown it would be a shame if the table surface

were to become nicked or chipped during play. To givethe paint some added protection we applied a sealing coatof varnish after the coats of paint had dried. Varnish isgreat for lending additional backbone but it also has the

unfortunate added side effect of giving the table a glossyappearance. When the varnish was dry the club applieda clear matt spray to the tables to remove this unwantedsheen.

START YOUR OWN TERRAIN CLUBThere are a number of valuable resources readily availableto support you as your Starship Troopers hobby expandsto include terrain building. For starters, look out of your

window. There is terrain everywhere! Pick several aspectsof what you see that you find most interesting and trybuilding it.

Suggestions regarding how to start and manage your projectcan be found in many hobby magazines and referencebooks such as this one. The internet is also a fantastic toolfor finding inspiration and direction. Some of the bestresources of all are your fellow hobbyists. They can be

reached online or closer to home in your local games andhobbies store.

Founding your own terrain club can start with a singleforum post or handshake. Its easy! The club that broughtyou the terrain documented in this article started with threepeople meeting once a week. Over time, the list of clubmembers and other contributors to this project has grownto include over 25 others.


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As Gen Con 05 got under way, all of our hard work had come to fruition, with hundreds of people enjoying their games of StarshipTroopers on the tables we had created. Their job done, the Terrain Club were able to sit back and enjoy a few games and soak up the

praise of the many people who saw their work and think ahead to what they could create for next years show!

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MOBILE INFANTRYSTANDARD BEARERNEW HEROIC TRAIT

Standard Bearer (+25 points)Highly trained NCOs (often called Colour Sergeants) or

veteran troopers are sometimes accorded the honour of

carrying the platoons or companys banner into battle,

dedicating themselves to keeping it out of the hands of

the enemy. On the battlefield, a standard serves as a

rallying point, letting troopers know where to retreat to

when things go wrong.

The standard bearer functions as a mobile Retrieval

Point (see page 69 of the main rulebook, page 79 ofthe hardback), allowing out of command models to take

Move actions towards it.

Permission Granted To Photocopy For Personal Use.- 14 -

Mobi l e I nf ant r y St andar d Bear er

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Mobi l e I nf ant r y St andar d Bear er

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PATHFINDERS !

LEADING THE WAY TO

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ASSEMBLING YOURM8 MARAUDER

1. I have removed all the parts from thesprue and cleaned off all the mould linesusing a Hobby knife and a file. I optedto remove all the parts at this stage; youcan leave the parts on the sprue untilthey are required, then you wont loseany of the small bits.

2. Take the hip, two connectorsand two pins. Assemble by puttingtogether and pushing the pins in tosecure. Do not use glue on the pin or

joint.

3. Take the two shoulder pieces, twoconnectors and two pins. Assemblethe joints as in Step 2. Do not use glueon the pin or joint.

4. Take the two outer leg pieces, twoinner leg pieces and two feet. Gluethe two halves of each leg togetherand glue on the foot. Note that thefeet will only attach to their respectivelegs.

5. Take the two halves of the lower arms(an outer and an inner) for both arms,six fingers (three for each hand) andthe two pre-assembled shoulders. Gluethe fingers into the holes, attach thelower inner arm and glue the shouldersinto the arms.

6. Glue the pilot into the rear of thebody. He attaches to the peg inside thatprotrudes from the back. Note. Youmay wish to leave the driver out at thisstage to facilitate easier painting later.

What You Will Need:

Hobby knife or scalpel, modelling files or fine sandpaper and Cynoacrylateor superglue (you may prefer to use plastic cement). While not essential, youmay also need a small quantity of model filler to fill any minor gaps in thekits construction.

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Assembl i ng Your M8 Mar auder

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7. Take the front and back body sections and the completedhip assembly. Sandwich the hip section between the twohalves of the body and glue.

8. Glue the Y-rack and minigun to the completed bodysection. Note that the clear plastic screen and the safety cagehave been left off for easier painting.

9. The arms are clipped onto the body sections ball jointswhich allow for full movement; you may want to leave themoff at this stage though to make painting easier. The legs cannow be simply glued to the hip joints before the completedmodel is glued to the base.

When you are happy with the pose, glue the joints together. Ifyou want the model to remain poseable apply small amountsof glue to the ends of the securing pins to fix them in the joint,being very careful not to get glue in the joint itself.

Assembl i ng Your M8 Mar auder

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PAINTING YOURM8 MARAUDER

What You Will Need:

Large Drybrush, Paint brush, preferably a size 0 or finedetail brush, PVA glue, Sand or flock, Acrylic hobbypaint (all from the excellent Testors range: Dragon Black,Angel Green, Slime Green, Carrion Green, HobgoblinGrey, Gunmetal, Flesh), Kitchen towel.

1. Undercoat the entire model in Dragon Black. To ensurethe best results, it is always best to undercoat or prime theassembled Marauder using black acrylic spray paint, touchingup any areas that have been missed by hand (see Fig. 1). Asolid black undercoat provides the best surface on which tolay the other colours we will be using for this model. Youmay find that you have to touch up the undercoat by handusing Dragon Black as the coverage given by spray cans is notalways complete.

2. Paint all of the Marauders exposed motive parts usingGunmetal, these include the models hip and shoulder joints,the knees and the Marauders ankle assemblies (see Fig. 2 and

Fig. 2a).

Top Tip: Paint With Care

Neatness is the key word in painting

your models. Take your time and the

results will speak for themselves.

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Pai nt i ng Your M8 Mar auder

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 2a

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3. With the exposed machinery painted, make a mixture ofDragon Black and water. Add the water to the mixture slowly.

What you are looking for is a thin mixture with the paint fluidenough to run into the gaps of the model but not so thick thatit alters the base colour too much. Paint this mixture over theexposed motive parts (see Fig. 3).

4. Once the thinned paint has dried, paint all of the Maraudersarmoured panels using Angel Green (see Fig. 4).

5. Make a 50/50 mix of Dragon Black and Angel Green.Thin this mixture in a similar fashion to the wash used above.NowCAREFULLYpaint the mixture into all the panel linesand corners. This technique is similar to using a wash but ismuch more controlled and direct (see Fig. 5).

6. Ensuring that the paint is dry, drybrush the AngelGreen armoured plates of the M8 in Slime Green. Note inthe photograph how more paint has been deposited on theupward facing surfaces simply by drawing the brush acrossthe model in only one direction (see Fig. 6).


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Fig. 3 Fig. 4

Fig. 5 Fig. 6

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10. Using Gunmetal, fill in the patches of Dinosaur Grey, beingcareful to leave some grey showing at the edges to simulate theflaking and chipping of the primer coat. As you can see, thefinished result is very bold and effective (see Fig. 10). Use PVAto glue sand to the base and paint to your preference.

7. Concentrating on the edges of the armour plates, drybrushthe model in Carrion Green (see Fig. 7).

8. The driver was painted exactly the same way as detailed onpage 3. The fingers and the guns were painted in Gunmetaland given a wash, just as in Step 3. The extremities of themodel are painted last so that the paint will not be rubbed off

while handling the model. Personalised markings can also beadded at this time (see Fig. 8).

9. Battle damage is an easy but very effective final touch toadd to your models. Using Dinosaur Grey, paint on randompatches where the paint has been chipped away. Place theselogically; on the models edges, corners and the extremities.

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Fig. 7 Fig. 8

Fig. 9 Fig. 10

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ASSEMBLING YOURTANKER BUG

What You Will Need:

Hobby knife or scalpel, modelling files or fine sandpaper and Cynoacrylate or superglue (you may prefer to use plasticcement). While not essential, you may also need a small quantity of model filler to fill any minor gaps in the kitsconstruction.

1. Remove all the parts from the sprueand remove all the moulding lines.This is best done by either filing witha modelling file or scraping off with ahobby knife (see Fig 1).

2. Glue the two parts of the uppercarapace together, making sure thatboth ends line up (see Fig. 2). Dothis first so the glue is fully set beforegetting to Step 5.

3. Glue the head parts together (seeFig 3).

4. Take the two parts of the thorax and

assemble on their location pins butdo not glue yet. The two parts of thethorax are now joined but will allowyou to push the head assembly andthe upper parts of the legs into place(see Fig. 4). Apply glue to the thoraxand head joins onlyDO NOT GLUETHE LEGS AT THE MOMENT.

5. Take the bottom half of the

abdomen and glue the small legs to it note that the legs get smaller as theynear the back of the bug (see Fig. 5).Next, take the bottom assembly withthe eight legs and the upper carapace(from step 1) and sandwich the thoraxball joint in it. Glue the abdomenparts together but avoid getting gluein the ball joint.

6. Using the small dumb-bell shaped

pieces attach the feet to the lowerlegs, DO NOT GLUE THE FEET

AT THE MOMENT. The legs andabdomen can now be posed as you

wish it is best to glue the abdomeninto place first. Then position thelegs and glue all joints in place, notforgetting the leg to thorax joint (seeFig. 6).

Assembl i ng your Tamker Bug

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Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3

Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6

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PAINTING YOURTANKER BUG

What You Will Need:

Large Drybrush, Paint brush, preferably a size 0 (finedetailor 1 (detail) brush, Acrylic hobby paint (all fromthe excellent Testors range: Dragon Black, Phthalo Blue,Royal Blue, Falcon Turquoise, Hobgoblin Grey, DinosaurGrey, Djinni Grey, Marine Blue, Troll Green, BloodeRed), Kitchen towel.

1. Undercoat the entire model in Dragon Black. To ensurethe best results, it is always best to undercoat or prime theassembled tanker bug using black acrylic spray paint, touchingup any areas that have been missed by hand (see Fig. 1). Asolid black undercoat provides the best surface on which tolay the other colours we will be using for this model. Youmay find that you have to touch up the undercoat by handusing Dragon Black as the coverage given by spray cans is notalways complete.

2. Using Phthalo Blue heavily drybrush the upper carapace,thorax, head and the upper legs (see Fig. 2).

3. Using Royal Blue drybrush the upper carapace again, butless heavily this time. Concentrate on the area around themore bulbous parts of the abdomens legs (see Fig. 3).

4. Make a 50/50 mix of Royal Blue and Falcon Turquoise.Again lightly drybrush the tankers upper carapace, thorax,head and the upper legs (see Fig. 4).

5. Using just Falcon Turquoise, very lightly apply one lastlayer of drybrushing to the tankers upper carapace, thorax,head and the upper legs (see Fig. 5).

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Pai nt i ng your Tanker Bug

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 4

Fig. 3

Fig. 5

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10. Paint the tankers face in Marine Blue, the eyes in Troll Green and themandibles in Bloode Red. At this point I also painted all the claws and horns inDragon Black (see Fig. 10 and Fig. 10a). As you can see drybrushing is a veryhandy technique for painting your bugs, three or four stages is all you need togive a striking look on the battlefield. Remember; just use three or four coloursascending in lightness and you can use it anywhere experiment and enjoy.

6. Paint the edges of the carapace and any areas, such as thetops of the abdominal legs, where the drybrushing has goneastray, in Dragon Black (see Fig. 6).

7. Drybrush all the parts of the model now left black usingHobgoblin Grey, this includes the lower legs and the feet (seeFig. 7). Be more accurate and careful than you may havebeen in the previous steps, to avoid the previously paintedareas.

8. Again drybrush the black areas of the tanker, this timeusing Dinosaur Grey (see Fig. 8).

9. This time drybrush the tankers black areas using DjinniGrey (see Fig. 9).

Pai nt i ng your Tanker Bug

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Fig. 10

Fig. 10a

Fig. 8 Fig. 9

Fig. 6 Fig. 7

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THE PLASMA BUG

Top Tip: The Plasma BugThe abdomen of the plasma bug has been

painted to simulate the glowing plasma charge

inside. To achieve this effect the windows at

the most bulbous part of the abdomen have

been painted lighter than the rest.

Plasma bugs are the Arachnid version of a planetary defencesystem, a role they fulfil admirably. Plasma bugs are ponderouslylarge, almost unable to move on the ground and incapable ofburrowing. How the Arachnids handle moving plasma bugs fromunderground hives to their stations on the surface for attack is yetanother mystery surrounding these incredibly powerful creatures.

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The Pl asma Bug

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THE XM-550 CHAS UNIT

Top Tip: XM-550 CHAS Unit

To break up the flat surfaces small Hazard

Warning signs have been painted on the

CHAS. Pictures of military aircraft are a

good source of reference for this type of

warning sign. Small coloured rectangles

and triangles work well. Place them near

engines or hydraulic systems.

A recent development by SICON,the CHAS robot is a heavily armedcombat machine with the firepowerof a squad of normal troopers andenough armour to shrug off blowsthat would tear though even MobileInfantry power suits.

The xm- 550 CHAS uNI T

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THE HOPPER BUG

Top Tip: The Hopper Bug

The hopper bugs in the film have an

iridescent quality to their bodies, this

gives them a multihued, almost metallic

look. A paint additive commonly called

Pearl Medium is available from art stores,

this can be added to acrylic paint to give it

such an iridescent quality.

Hopper bugs are a deadly part of the Arachnid army, both fortheir sheer speed and mobility and the lethal nature of theirsudden attacks. While there are ways to detect hopper bugs in

flight, it is very difficult and most units are not equipped with theinstruments to do so. The best most squads can do when passingthrough hopper bug territory is to remain alert and be ready todive for cover.

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The Hopper Bug

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THE RELIANT WEAPONSPLATFORM

The Rel i ant Weapons Pl at f or m

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THE BRAIN BUG

Top Tip: The Brain Bug

The Brain Bug requires a degree of modelling

experience to assemble. Sometimes the

metal distorts slightly due to the heat in

the casting process on a multipart model

this means gaps. A two-part epoxy putty is

best for filling these gaps. Using the base

of the brain bug as a jig, assemble the two

sides and the face first, then add the top

section.

Brain bugs are at the visible top of the Arachnid hierarchy, thoughit is theorised that there may be one level above them that has neverbeen seen by humans. Any trooper who assumes these massive andbizarrely shaped creatures are defenceless may not live to realisehis error. Brain bugs act as communication and tactical centres

for Arachnid hives, connected to every creature in the colonythrough their impressive but utterly alien telepathic mind.

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The Br ai n Bug

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WASP TROOPERS

The WASP Tr ooper

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CATALOGUE

The Mobile Infantry are the backbone of humanity. They are

the armed force that serve the planets of the United Citizens

Federation, well armed and ready to take on any menace to

mankinds dominant position among the stars.

This box set contains a

complete Mobile Infantry

Trooper squad of eightmen, plus a variety of

weapon and equipment

options, making these the

best equipped soldiers in

the galaxy!

A more specialised

Marauder variant than the

Ape, the M9 Chickenhawkis designed as a mobile

gun platform, capable of

bringing huge amounts of

firepower to any portion of

the battlefield.

More famous than even

the power suits worn by

most Mobile Infantry, theM8 Ape Marauder suit

enables a single trooper to

take on whole bug swarms

by himself - though it is

usually best not to!

The Heroes of the Mobile

Infantry stand ready

to do their part for

Earth, Mankind and theFederation! Having joined

the Mobile Infantry, they

have decided to place the

importance of the body

politic above their own

personal safety.

Code: MGP910001 Price: $19.95/12.00

Code: MGP910008 Price: $19.95/12.00

Code: MGP910007 Price: $19.95/12.00

Code: MGP910003 Price: $19.95/12.00

Code: MGP910006 Price: $14.95/8.50

A recent development by

SICON, the CHAS robotic

unit is a heavily armed

combat machine with the

firepower of an entiresquad of normal troopers

and enough armour to

shrug off blows that would

tear through a standard

M-1A4 power suit.

In the brutal universe

of the future, humanityneeds every soldier it can

muster and women fight

alongside men with just

as much ferocity.

Code: MGP910011 Price: $24.95/15.00

The Flamberge is a heavy

ground attack missile

fired from large gunships

miles from the combat

zone. The Sarissa SpaceCombat Missile, launched

from ships in orbit to

deliver pin point strikes

on Arachnid swarms, is

capable of defeating even

the heaviest of Plasma

Bug anti-aircraft fire.

Code: MGP910030 Price: $19.95/12.00

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Cat al ogue

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Insectoid in origin and possessing phenomenal

strength, Arachnids (or Bugs as they are

referred to by most Cap Troopers) appear to be

hostile to all forms of life not their own.

Completely unafraid in the

face of battle, fast moving,

resistant to incoming fire

and capable of ripping apart

even heavily armouredvehicles, the warrior bugs

are the mainstay of the

Arachnid army and a huge

swarm of them is terrifying

to behold.

Code: MGP910002 Price: $19.95/12.00

The firefry is a lightweight

species that can leapenormous distances and

then deliver a stream of

volatile chemicals that

ignite with oxygen.

Code: MGP910005 Price: $24.95/15.00 Code: MGP910009 Price: $24.95/15.00

Supremely fast and agile,

hopper bugs gather in

swarms to sweep across

the battlefield. Moving atfull speed, they are capable

of decapitating the most

heavily-armoured trooper

before sweeping out of

sight.

Blister and blaster bugs

provide additional ranged

firepower for the Arachnid

host, and are treated asutilitarian and expendable

by the brain bugs they

serve.

Code: MGP910019 Price: $24.95/15.00

Deployable within minutes

of an engagement, the

Reliant Gun Platform is

the standard defensive

emplacement of the

Mobile Infantry.

Code: MGP910015 Price: $24.95/15.00

The WASP flight packs

seem bulky and unwieldy

devices but they can grant

an entire squad of Cap

Troopers an unprecedented

degree of battlefield

mobility. Designed so the

MIs normal weaponry can

be used while in flight, the

WASP pack is a valuable

upgrade that can far extendthe jump distance of a

squad.

Code: MGP910016 Price: $24.95/15.00

Code: MGP910010 Price: $29.95/17.00

The highest ranking

Arachnid yet discovered

by the Mobile Infantry, this

is certainly one big, fat,

smart bug! The brain bug

is capable of monitoring

the actions of dozens of

lesser Arachnids, guidingthem towards the enemy

while using its mighty

psychic powers to crush

the puny humans.

Cat al ogue

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Stand by for the hottest action in 30mm science fiction gaming. Starship

Troopers brings the action of the novel, film and TV series straight to you

tabletop in a fast-to-learn wargame.

DO YOU WANT TO KNOW MORE?

Collect armies of the Mobile Infantry, Arachnids and Skinnies (and that is

just for starters - there are more alien races coming!) and compete for th

very survival of your species.

Striking almost with impunity along the borders of the

Federation, Skinnies wield weapons of fantastic technology,

capturing both personnel and important equipment as they go.

Skinny Raiders blister pack Skinny Militia blister pack

Code: MGP910013 Price: $9.95/6.00 Code: MGP910012 Price: $9.95/6.00

Capable of tunnelling

alongside warrior bugs as

part of an assault, the tanker

bug is a huge Arachnid used

to batter through Mobile

Infantry lines, absorbing

tremendous amounts of

firepower.

Code: MGP910004 Price: $34.95/20.00

Plasma bugs provide the

Arachnid army with some

much needed heavy firepower,

able to target ground or

air units with equal ease

and equally devastating

consequences. Plasma bugs

launch devastating globules

of plasma discharge which

engulf the target in searing

strands, reducing them to ashin seconds.

Code: MGP910020 Price: $39.95/25.00

Cat al ogue

With a game system designed b

Andy Chambers, plastic miniat

sculpted by Bob Naismith, and

the setting created by Robert A

Heinlein, one of the most influe

science fiction writers of the 2

Century, Starship Troopers has

a pedigree that is hard to beat.

Whether they choose to side wi

the Arachnids or Mobile Infant

players will find they have a widvariety of options that extends

beyond simple army list choice

- each force has an astounding

array of tactics and ploys with

which to defeat opponents, from

capsule drops and tunnelling to

deployment of atomic weapons

strikes and psychic brain bugs

81770397 Starship Troopers Painting Guide

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Transcript of 81770397 Starship Troopers Painting Guide