8. BAY OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST OPEN ROAD'S BEST OF ITALY 8. BAY OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST...

228 OPEN ROAD'S BEST OF ITALY

8. BAY OF NAPLES &

THE AMALFI COAST

HIGHLIGHTS

�� Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Capri,

Amalfi, Ravello, Positano

��the ancient wonders of Pompeii, the island

beauty of Capri, Naples' National Archaeo-

logical Museum, the pretty towns hugging the

Amalfi Coast

BAY OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST 229

COORDINATES

Naples sits on the Bay of Naples, about

four hours south of Rome by train or car

if you take the A2. You can also arrive by

ferry or bus. The northern part of the

Amalfi Coast is another hour or so south

of Naples by car if there is no

traffic, but you will likely

find the bus much easier!

INTROThe Bay of Naples is thegateway to the scenic islandof Capri and the ancientRoman towns of Pompeiiand Herculaneum. InNaples itself is the best Ro-man archeological museumin Italy, and some say all ofEurope, filled with the arti-

A WEEKEND IN CAPRI & NAPLESThere is quite a lot to do in and around the Bay of Naples. This weekendis packed with scenic vistas, relaxing islands, ancient Roman towns,exemplary museums, and more.

Friday EveningAs you pass through Naples, feel its energy, notice the chaos, smell theexhaust fumes, and be thankful you will be spending your weekend on thepristine island of Capri. Though we will be returning to Naples tomorrowto visit the National Museum and nearby Pompeii, for a peaceful eveningthere is no better place than the Isle of Capri.

facts from those ancient Roman towns that were covered in the ash and lavafrom the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius almost 2,000 years ago.

A little way beyond the bay are the picturesque villages of the Amalfi Coastperched scenically on the slope overlooking the pristine blue waters of theMediterranean, where you will find Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello, amongothers.

People flock to Capri be-cause the scenery is stun-ning, the pace of life relax-ing, the restaurants are ex-cellent, and the hotels world-class. With footpaths cross-ing the island, you can hikefrom cafe to cafe and townto town, along trails cut intothe verdant hillsides.


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Sunbathing and other water sports are also available. But the favoritepastime on Capri is to relax and soak up the incredible atmosphere. Despitethe hordes of tourists that descend in the summer, Capri still maintains aquiet pace and a strong sense of community. Info: www.capritourism.com.

But first we have to get here. From the train station in Naples take a taxito the Stazione Maritima at Molo Angionino where you will catch eitherthe ferry (traghetto) or hydrofoil (aliscafo) to Capri. Ferries cost half asmuch but take twice as long. Signs indicate which company goes to whichdestinations. Pick up a schedule for your return visit tomorrow.

You arrive on Capri at the Marina Grande. From there, take either thefuniculare, bus, or taxi up to the town of Capri. From you can walk to yourhotel unless your hotel is out of town, then a taxi will be necessary.

After settling into your hotel, take the time to wander the town to get yourbearings. Grab a drink at a café and settle into the slow pace of island life.

For dinner tonight, unless you find a place that catches your fancy, let’s try

Alternative Plan

Stay on Capri: visit the BlueGrotto, take the chair lift fromAnacapri up to the top of MonteSalaro for a wonderful view ofthe whole bay, hike down, visitRoman Emperor Tiberius’ villadating from 27 AD, or simplyluxuriate in the tranquil ambi-ance of the island. See later inthis chapter for details

La Campannina, a fine family-run,upscale, but rustic establishment (seeBest Sleeps & Eats).

SaturdayFrom our island refuge, we are goingto head into Naples. To say that thiscity is chaotic is a gross understate-ment. Cars ignore red lights, scootersdrive on sidewalks, and so on. Couplethis with the omnipresent threat ofgetting your pocket picked, and it ishard to imagine why people comehere. But they do.

For our purposes this weekend, how-ever, all we need to do is get intoNaples, head to the National Mu-seum, then train out to Pompeii for avisit.


On the northwestern outskirts of the centro storico just off of Piazza Cavouris the National Archaeological Museum, which boasts an amazingly richcollection of antiquities culled from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Consid-ered by many to the best archeological museum in Italy, if not Europe. Oneof its best exhibits is the Gabinetto Segreto, the secret closet. Filled witherotic statues, mosaics and other pieces of art of a sexual nature, these piecesdefinitely give you an insight into daily life back in the Roman era. Info:Piazza Cavour. Tel. 081/440–166. Information and reservations: 848/800-288. www.marketplace.it/museo.nazionale. Open daily 9am–7pm. Until8pm on holidays. Closed Tuesdays. €6.50.

After witnessing the treasures culled from the excavations of Pompeii, doyourself a big favor and visit that world-famous site. To get to Pompeii bytrain from Naples, go one floor below the Central Station to theCircumvesuviana station for a local train to Pompeii Scavi. The trip takesabout 30-40 minutes.

Tens of thousands of people died when Vesuvius erupted in 79 CE,submerging Pompeii with volcanic emissions. The lava and ash created analmost perfect time capsule, sealing in an important cross-section of anancient civilization.


Before Pompeii was buried by lava, it was a major seaport linking it to therest of the Roman Empire. As such it was an established city with amulticultural population of about 25,000 Greeks, Egyptians, Gauls,Iberians and every other nationality in the Empire. By 80 BCE, it was alsoa favorite resort for wealthy Romans.

Shaken by an earthquake in 62 CE, Pompeii recovered, brushed itself offand went back to work. Seventeen years later on August 24, 79 CE, Mt.Vesuvius erupted, spewing ash and pumice that covered the city. In places,there are human forms and family pets forever preserved having died in theembrace of the volcanic flow. You can see where gardens, food shops,apartment buildings, and villas used to be.

After many years of mismanagement, Pompeii is slowly re-emerging to bea true world wonder. The ancient city is now being restored to a semblanceof its former glory. Pompeii is unique anywhere in the world, and is a must-see stop when in this part of Italy. Info: Open April – October 8:30am-7:30pm. Last entry at 6pm. November to March 8:30am-5pm. Last entry3:30pm. Admission €10.

A WEEK IN THE BAY OF NAPLES& THE AMALFI COASTThe history of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and the sun, sea, and sereneliving of Capri and the Amalfi Coast will make this a truly memorablevacation experience. On this trip you can combine urban adventures in oneof Italy’s most hectic cities, Naples, as well as peaceful relaxation along thecoast. Info: For information about Capri and ferries to the island visitwww.capritourism.com. For ferry schedules and everything else associated withthe Amalfi Coast, visit www.amalfi.it.

Recommended Plan

Stay on Capri for the first five

days and commute to Naples

by ferry, and to Pompeii and

Herculaneum by ferry then

train. Then for the last two

nights pick a town on the

Amalfi Coast — I would sug-

gest Amalfi itself — to use as

your base to explore that area.

CAPRITo get to the town of Capri, afteryou’ve made it to the Marina Grande,the main harbor on the island, takethe funicular, taxi or bus up the hill.At the Piazza Umberto I, you canenjoy the memorable view out ontothe Bay of Naples. This is the perfectpiazza to have a seat on any one of thecafés and watch the world go by.


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From here you can walk – granted it’s a long way – or take a public busnortheast to the Palace of Tiberius, the biggest, best preserved Imperialvilla on the island. You won’t find elaborate mosaic floors or statues in placehere, and at first glance the site might seem disappointing, but what makesthis place special is the sheer extent of the ruins located in such a superbsetting. Built in the first century, the villa was initially 12 stories high butonly partial remains of three remain. However, the beehive of passagewaysleading to many small rooms make it evident that this villa functioned asa mini-city, with baths, store rooms and servants’ quarters.

The Palace is perched on an imposing hilltop called Il Salto (The Leap)from which the Emperor is said to have thrown his enemies (and if you’veread any Roman history this is probably true). Info: Open daily 9am until1 hour before sunset. Admission €3.

On the south edge of town is the Certosa di San Giacomo, a 14th centuryCarthusian monastery that was founded in 1371, destroyed in 1553 andrebuilt soon after. It was used as a prison and a hospice in the 1800s andtoday houses a secondary school and a library. The cloisters and the darkGothic church are open to the public.

From the monastery walk along the Via di Certosa to the Parco Augusto.From the terrace here you will find some fine views to the south of the islandover the Marina Piccola (small harbor) and the Faraglioni rock formations.

My favorite part of the island is Anacapri. You get here either by bus, taxior foot from Capri. Anacapri is more relaxed and down-to-earth ascompared to the faster-paced Capri. Perched high up on a rocky plateau,its flat-roofed whitewashed buildings are clearly Moorish in style. Hereyou can find the 18thcentury Church of SanMichele (Info: open daily7am–7pm) with its soberBaroque design and in-tricate frescoed floors.Also in Anacapri is theVilla San Michele, whichis known for its beautifulgardens and vast collec-tion of classical sculpture.


Info: open summer 9am–6pm, winter 10am–3pm; admission €6. If you wantto go higher, you can walk or take a chair lift up to Monte Solaro, whichhas amazing views over all of Capri. Bring a sweater or jacket even on sunnydays since the wind and height tends to cool things down slightly.

Finally, onto the famous Grotta Azzura or Blue Grotto. You get here fromthe Marina Grande by motorboat with a number of other people, thentransfer to rowboats to enter the grotto. You will have to sit on the floor ofthe rowboat as the captain (on his back) leads the boat in by pulling handover hand on a length of fixed chain. The silver-blue light inside sparklesincandescently. An incredible sight. Info: Open 24 hours. Boat trips fromMarina Grande go from 9am–6pm. Cost €5.

BEST SLEEPS & EATSSleeps

Quisisana (photo at left) is an ultra-luxu-rious five-star with an indoor and out-door swimming pool, health club, tenniscourts, sauna, a great restaurant, andexcellent views of the whole island. If youhave the means, this is the place to stay.Info: Via Camerelle 2, Tel. 081/837-0788,Fax 081/837-6080. www.quisi.com. 150rooms, 15 suites. All credit cards accepted.Double €310-900; Suite €640-1200.Closed November 1 to March 31.

La Residenza is a four-star with all youcould want for your stay on Capri: arestaurant and a pool both with scenicviews and relaxing garden setting, a loca-

tion on the sea, clean and comfortable rooms, transport around the island,and more. Info: Via F Serena 22, Tel. 081/837-0833, Fax 081/837-7564.www.laresidenzacapri.com. 114 rooms. All credit cards accepted. Single€140-160; Double €300-810; Suite €1,010.

Certosella offers pleasant and comfortable accommodations and includesa swimming pool. A great little three-star hotel. Info: Via Tragara 13, Tel.081/837-0713, Fax 081/837-6113. www.hotelcertosella.com. Closed No-vember and Easter. 18 rooms. Double €200-280. All credit cards accepted.Breakfast included.


San Michele is located in Anacapri on the edge of a cliff overlooking thewater. Almost all the rooms in this three-star have the most spectacular viewyou could find anywhere. Info: Via G Orlandi 3, Tel. 081/837-1427, Fax081/837-1420. www.sanmichele-capri.com. 100 rooms. Double €90-450;Breakfast extra. All credit cards accepted.

Villa Sarah is a villa with a garden located in a tranquil setting along the roadthat takes you to the Villa Tiberio. A great three-star in Capri. Info: ViaTiberio 3, Tel. 081/837-0689, Fax 081/837-7215. www.villasarahcapri.com.Closed from the end of October until Easter. 20 rooms. Single €90-140; Double€135-210. Credit cards accepted. Breakfast included.

EatsBuca di Bacco da Serafina is a small trattoria with an extensive menu andgreat atmosphere. Highly recommended. Info: Via Longano 35, Tel. 081/837-0723. Closed Wednesdays and November. All credit cards accepted. Mealfor two €40.

La Campannina is a finefamily-run place that is up-scale but rustic. Here youwill get peasant fare in alocal down-to-earth ambi-ance. Info: Via delle Botteghe14, Tel. 081/837-0732.Closed Wednesdays and No-vember to Easter. All creditcards accepted. Meal for two €70.

Da Gemma is famous for their spaghetti alle vongole (with clam sauce) andthe fritto alla Gemma (fried mozzarella and zucchini and other vegetables).Info: Via Madre Serafina 6, Tel. 081/837-0461. www.dagemma.it. ClosedMondays and November. All credit cards accepted. Meal for two €25.

Da Mamma Giovanna is a small, local trattoria that makes great pizzas aswell as grilled or oven cooked meats and fish. Located in the heart ofAnacapri. Info: (Anacapri) Via Boffe 3/5, Tel. 081/837-2057. Closed Mon-days and the ten days after Christmas. All credit cards accepted. Meal for two€40.


Paolino has old stoves and other cooking devices supporting the tables,which lends the place a nice down to earth touch that goes well with theirexpensive prices. Info: Via Palazzo a Mare 11, Tel. 081/837-6102. ClosedMondays and January 15 to Easter. All credit cards accepted. Meal for two €60.

BEST SPORTS & RECREATIONOn Capri, two fun things to do are the Blue Grotto and the chairlift upMonte Solaro (see pages 231, 236). Walking is by far the best way of gettingabout the island, but horse-drawn carriages, buses and taxis link Capri andAnacapri.

NAPLESNaples is chaotic, energetic, passionate, and edgy. Make sure you keep yourvaluables in safe locations on your body. I have traveled the world, but theonly place I ever had my pocket picked was in the Naples. Fear not,however, as a rule no one will harm you for the contents of your wallet. Butif you put down your camera and turn your back, or when buyingsomething set your wallet on the counter … there’s a good chance it willbe gone. Despite the omnipresent possibility of petty theft, Naples is alsoan incredible cultural experience. Info: www.comune.napoli.it or www.enit.it.

The place to start your trip is in the heart of Naples, its Centro Storico.Located just north of the harbor, this part of Naples is the best location towalk and get a feel for the city. It has winding streets dotted with smallchurches and quaint old buildings. A fun place to explore during the daybut be careful at night. Even locals advise you not to frequent anywherebetween the Duomo and the train station at night unless you really knowwhat you are doing.

The old main street,called the Spaccanapoli(Naples splitter) is a com-bination of all the streetsfrom the Via Toledo,through the ViaMaddaloni, to the ViaCroce, and onto the ViaS. Giagio ai Librai. Thisseries of streets, as well asthe small alleys that are


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offshoots from it, are lined with shops of traditional artisans, such as thePalazzo di Strumenti Musicali in front of the San Domenico Maggiore.Up the stairs to the first floor you’ll find guitars and other instrumentsbeing crafted by hand. Info: Vico San Domenico Maggiore #9

Another unique shop is the L’Ospedale delle Bambole, The Doll Hospital.Here you’ll find ancient dolls and puppets hanging or strewn haphazardlyabout. Info: Via S Biagio ai Librai. A can’t-miss street in the centro storicois the Via San Gregorio Armeno, which is commonly known as the“Nativity Scene Street” since they sell figurines for crèches year round.

Also in the centro storico is Napoli Sotteranea, an amazing undergroundtour of catacombs, ancient aqueducts, cisterns, and the remains of Romanand Greek buildings that lie below modern Naples. The entrance is to theleft of the church of S. Paolo Maggiore. Also featured in this tour are visitsinside nearby homes that have been carved out of the ancient Romanamphitheater that used to exist here. You will see old stadium seatsincorporated into modern apartments. Info: Piazza San Gaetano 68. Tel.081/296-944. napolisotterranea.org. Tours Mon-Fri noon, 2pm, and 4pm.On Thurs at 9am. Sat, Sun and Holidays 10am, noon, 2pm, 4pm, and 6pm.Groups need to book in advance. Admission €8.

Right across the small piazza from Napoli Sotteranea is another excellentarcheological excavation, Scavi di San Lorenzo Maggiore. Self-guided, butwith a wonderful map, illustrations and descriptions, this is a sight wellworth seeing. Located on the Via San Gregorio Aremeno. Info: Piazza SanGaetano. Time M-S 9am-5pm, Sun 9:30-1:30. Admission €4.

Finally, a trip to Naples is not complete without a visit to the NationalArchaeological Museum. This museum boasts an amazingly rich collec-

of antiquities. Considered bymany to be the best archeo-logical museum in Italy, thisis definitely a must-see desti-nation when in Naples. Oneof its best exhibits is theGabinetto Segreto, the secretcloset. Filled with erotic stat-ues, mosaics and other piecesof art of a sexual nature, theseworks give you an insight into


tion life back in the Roman era. Info: Piazza Cavour. Tel. 081/440–166.Information and reservations: 848/800-288. www.marketplace.it/museo.nazionale. Open daily 9am–7pm. Until 8pm on holidays. ClosedTuesdays. Admission €6.5.

After you have done all this, head back to your ferry and return to yourisland paradise, Capri.

BEST SLEEPS & EATSNote: don’t stay in Naples. Instead, book a hotel in nearby Capri,Positano, or anywhere else on the Amalfi Coast. There are some greatthings about Naples, and even some great hotels, but overall you are muchbetter off staying elsewhere. But we do list our favorite restaurants, below,for your (brief!) visit here.

Eats

La Taverna dell’Arte (photo at right) is myfavorite place in Naples. A small local trattoriasituated in the heart of the centro storico. Info:Rampa S. Giovanni Maggiore 1a, Tel. 081/552-7558. www.tavernadellarte.it. ClosedSundays and August. No credit cards accepted.Dinner for two €40.

Lombardi is located near the MuseoArcheologico Nazionale and has some ofbest Pizza Napoletana in town. Info: ViaForia 12, Tel. 081/456-220. Closed Mon-days. All credit cards accepted. Meal for two €28.

Lombardi a Santa Chiara is the sister pizzeria to Lombardi’s. This one isin the heart of the centro storico right next to the Chiesa di Santa Chiara andtheir beautiful cloisters. Info: Via B Croce 59, Tel. 081/522-0780. ClosedSundays and three weeks in August. Credit cards accepted. Meal for two €33.

Il Trianon claims to have the best pizza in Naples. Even if it is not, it isdefinitely in the top ten. As is its vibrant local atmosphere. Info: Via PColletta 46, Tel. 081/553-9426. www.napolibox.it/trianon. Closed Sundaysand for lunch, New Years Eve and Christmas. No credit cards accepted. Mealfor two €25.


Al Barcadero Café is an intimate little cafe in the ritzy part of Naples. Setdown on the water and away from the frenetic pace of the city, this is a greatplace to come if you have to wait for a ferry. Info: Banchina S. Lucia 2, Tel.333/222-7023. Open from 10am to 10pm.

BEST NIGHTLIFE & ENTERTAINMENTIf you are in Naples from December to June — the traditional opera season— have some formal attire and have a taste for something out of theordinary, try the Teatro San Carlo. Info: Via San Carlo 98f, 80132 Napoli,Tel. 081/797-2331 or 797-2412, Fax 081/797-2306.

If opera is not your thing, try Riot. Info: Via S Biagio dei Librai 26. Nophone. Open from 9pm-3am. This place is made up of some rooms in an oldbuilding from the 18th century with tall French windows opening out ontoa lush terrace of palm trees, pebble paths, and tables at which to sit andenjoy a drink or a smoke. During the summer they have art exhibits andlate night bands, mostly American blues and jazz.

BEST SHOPPINGThe main shopping streets are the Corso Umberto, Via Toledo, and ViaChiaia. Along these byways you’ll find your international style, upscale,expensive stores. In the centro storico, a unique shop is the L’Ospedale delleBambole (The Doll Hospital), located on Via S Biagio ai Librai, whereyou’ll find ancient dolls and puppets hanging everywhere or strewnhaphazardly about. The Via San Gregorio Aremeno, commonly known asthe Nativity scene street, sells figurines for crèches.

POMPEIIThis is a city truly trapped in time. One day in 79 CE life stopped for

Pompeii when Mt. Vesuviuserupted, and roads, gardens,shops, bordellos, apartmentbuildings, villas and moreall remain almost as theywere from that fateful day.

Some of the best homes tosee are the House of theFaun (photo at left) and the


the House of the Vettii, both in the residential area north of the Forum.Other homes of interest are the House of the Melander (located to the eastof the Forum), the Villa of the Mysteries (located to the west of the maintown), and the House of Pansa (located to the north of the Forum) thatalso included rented apartments.

The public Amphitheater, in the east of the city, should not be missedbecause of its scale and level of preservation.

The ancient town of Pompeii covered 160 acres, and was well supplied withpublic amenities. Lead water pipes found everywhere show that all but thevery humblest of houses were supplied with running water. Most houseseither doubled as workshops, or had small workshops in them since theancient world’s slave economy did not foster the development of the largescale factory system. The lives of ancient tradesmen, about which literaturetells us almost nothing, becomes more real for us here than anywhere elsein the ancient world. Except possibly, for the abandoned port of Rome,Ostia Antica.

Pompeii has also enriched our knowledge of ancient Romans’ relationswith their gods. Graffiti in Pompeii shows us that the Imperial cult,whereby Emperors were decreed to be deities in and of themselves, wasadhered to, though generally only with lip service. One such wall scribblingstates “Augustus Caesar’s mother was only a woman.” Blasphemous!

Also in evidence in Pompeii are symbols of the Greek cult of Dionysis, oneof many that flourished in the city. The Temple of Isis (to the east of theForum) testifies to the strong following that the Egyptian goddess had here.The Roman warrior sect of Mithras was also well represented, as werefamily cults that worshipped dead ancestors. This is evidenced by the factthat most homes and workshops had private shrines usually housing bustsof ancestors. However, the true god of Pompeii was, as with other citiesancient and modern … money.

Ironically, it was that worship of money that got many people killed. Goingback for their hoards of silver and gold spelled death for many of theresidents of Pompeii. Under the hail of pumice stone and ash many wereasphyxiated or engulfed. A particularly disturbing cluster of victims, withtheir children and burdensome possessions, is preserved near the NoceraGate. Info: To get to Pompeii by train from Naples, go one floor below the


Central Station to the Circumvesuviana station for a local train to PompeiiScavi. The trip takes about 30-40 minutes. Open April – October 8:30am-7:30pm. Last entry at 6pm. November to March 8:30am-5pm. Last entry3:30pm. Admission €10. www.scavidipompei.it.

HERCULANEUMClose to Naples, and seventeen miles northeast of Pompeii is the smallertown of Herculaneum. At the time of the eruption of Mt Vesuvius in 79CE Herculaneum had only 5,000 inhabitants, very little commerce, andmade most of its living from fishing. The volcanic mud that flowedthrough every building and street in Herculaneum was a different coveringfrom that which buried Pompeii. This steaming hot lava-like substancesettled eventually to a depth of 30-40 feet and became rock-hard, sealingand preserving everything it came in contact with. Dinner was left ontables, wine shops abandoned in mid-purchase, sacrifices left at themoment of offering, funerals never finished, prisoners left in stocks, andwatchdogs perished on their chains.

Fortunately for the residents, but not for archeologists, the absence of thehail of hot ash that rained down on Pompeii, which smashed the buildingsof that city and trapped many residents of that town, meant that many ofthe inhabitants of Herculaneum were able to get away in time. Despite theabsence of preserved human remains, Herculaneum offers complete houses,with their woodwork, household goods, and furniture.

Although Herculaneum was a relatively unimportant town compared withPompeii, many of the houses that have been excavated were from thewealthy class. It is speculated that perhaps the town was like a retirementvillage, populated by prosperous Romans seeking to pass their retirementyears in the calm of a small seaside town. This idea is bolstered by the fact

that the few craft shopsthat have been discoveredwere solely for the manu-facture of luxury goods.

Archaeologists surmisethat the most desirableresidential area was in thesouthwest part of town,which overlooked the


ocean in many different housing terraces. Here you will find the House ofthe Stags, famous for its beautiful frescoes, sculpted stags, and a drunkenfigure of Hercules. Farther north you can find the marvelously preservedHouse of the Wooden Partition. It is one of the most complete examplesof a private residence in either Pompeii or Herculaneum. Near this houseto the north are the Baths, an elaborate complex incorporating a gymna-sium and assorted men and women’s baths.

Important to remember as you compare Herculaneum with Pompeii is thatthis town was only recently excavated, and as a result modern methods andtools were used for the job. This allowed for more advanced preservationefforts. Info: To get to Herculaneum by train from Naples, go one floor belowthe Central Station to the Circumvesuviana station for a local train toErcolano. The trip takes about 20-30 minutes. Gates to the site open year round9am to one hour before sunset. Admission €10. www.comune.ercolano.na.it.

AMALFI COASTThe steep slopes and rugged beauty of the Amalfi Coast have enchantedvisitors for centuries. Mount Vesuvius reigns majestically in the distance,dominating the scenery as it once dictated the lives of the area’s inhabitantswith its eruptions. Dotted with little hillside towns, the serpentine roadconnecting them usually has bumper to bumper traffic. In the off-seasonthe traffic decreases considerably, but then so does the temperature, andbathing in the sea is one of the attractions of this coastline.

The narrow, two-lane road thatjoins Vietri (near Salerno) toPositano is dug almost entirely outof the rock, and curves maniacally.Built in the 1800s by the King ofNaples, this road follows the lay ofthe mountains on one side and thestunning curves of the sea on theother. Every turn offers coastal pan-oramic views of unparalleled pro-portions.

The coastline is filled with high-end hotels, excellent restaurants,nightlife options, ancient medieval


streets and passageways, cultural sights and fun-loving locals. The AmalfiCoast is a place you will want to return to time and time again. Info:www.amalfi.it.

PositanoPerched up hillsides in a tangle of houses, alleys, stairways and touristshops, overlooking a series of pristine beaches, the town of Positano (seephoto on previous page) has been a part of this beautiful landscape for almosta thousand years. When Emperor Tiberius moved to Capri to escape theintrigue of Rome, he had his flour brought in from a mill in Positano, onethat is still working today. In the 10th century, as a sea power and activetrade competitor with Venice, Pisa and Genoa, Positano was one of themost important commercial centers on the Italian peninsula. In the 16thand 17th centuries, filled with the wealth from its trading, was when manyof the beautiful Baroque homes scattered on the hills of the town were built.Info: www.aziendaturismopositano.it

Because of its timeless beauty, Positano has been the playground of the richand famous for centuries. Writers, musicians, nobles, aristocrats – all havecome here to bathe in the azure waters and relax in the lush green hillsides.Filled with excellent restaurants, world-class hotels, and all manner ofwater sports, Positano is a perfect holiday destination.

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For historic sights, try the Santa Maria Assunta, a 12th century church thatdominates the Positano hillside. The ancient floor is a Byzantine mosaicand on the main altar is a relief of the Madonna and Child in black marble.Other than that, Positano is a place to relax, read, and connect with the oneyou love. Info: http://positano.starnetwork.it.

BEST SLEEPS & EATSSleepsLe Sirenuse, a five-star, is definitely the place to stay in Positano. There isa pool at your disposal, a sauna, and a small boat to ferry you along the coast.Their restaurant,La Sponda, is oneof the best, if notthe best, in thecity. Expensive,yes, but when theexcellent Nea-politan cuisine is combined with the great views from the terrace, the priceis irrelevant. Info: Via Cristoforo Colombo 30. Tel. 089/875-066, Fax 089/811-798. www.sirenuse.it. 60 rooms. Single €310-850. Double €350-900.Credit cards accepted. Breakfast included.

Poseidon is a fine four-star hotel located in the heart of Positano. Info: ViaPasitea 148. Tel. 089/811-111, Fax 089/875-833.www.hotelposeidonpositano.it. 48 rooms. Double €240-310; Suite €360-600. Credit cards accepted. Breakfast included.

Casa Albertina is an excellent family-run three-star located in a tranquilarea. They also have a superb restaurant. Info: Via della Tavolozza 3. Tel.089/875-143, Fax 089/811-540. www.casalbertina.it. 20 rooms. Single€120-170; Double €140-240. Credit cards accepted. Breakfast included.

EatsLa Cambusa are known for their great seafood. A little expensive, but thefood and ambiance are worth the price. Info: Piazza A. Vespucci 4, Tel. 089/875-432. Closed November 11 to December 20. Credit cards accepted. Mealfor two €70.

‘O Capurale has been in the family for over one hundred years and is partof the life of Positano. People come here for the friendly local atmosphere


as well as the fine food. Info: Via Regina Giovanna 12, Tel. 089/811-188.Closed Tuesdays (not in summer) and January. Credit cards accepted. Meal fortwo €35.

BEST NIGHTLIFE & ENTERTAINMENTNightlife is generally limited on the Amalfi Coast to finding a nicerestaurant or cafe and lingering over dinner or coffee. In Positano, you cango dancing with the younger crowed in a cave at Music on the Rocks. Info:Via Grotte dell’incanto, 51, Tel. 089/ 875-874, www.musicontherocks.it.

AmalfiWhat an amazingly beautiful town. Clinging to the rocky coast of theSorrento peninsula is one of the most picturesque little towns in Italy,Amalfi. It is primarily the slow pace, friendly locals and engaging colors ofAmalfi that attracts visitors. Set on a backdrop of blue, the pastel coloredhouses of red and yellow, and the striped fishing boats fill the canvas of thetown. If you want to experience an amazing place, come to Amalfi.

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Legend has it that the townwas established by Constantinethe Great as a respite from thechaos of Rome. By the MiddleAges it had a population of50,000, but today it is onlyaround 7,000. As a tourist lo-cation, Amalfi offers every-thing you could need to makeyour stay pleasant: fine restau-rants, wonderful hotels,nightlife, shopping, watersports and sightseeing.

Some of the sights you can seeare the Duomo of Sant’Andreabuilt in the Lombard Ro-manesque style in 1203. Itsfine portico with pointedarches was totally rebuilt in1865. On the west side is abronze door that was cast in Constinantinople in 1066. In the crypt youwill find the remains of the Apostle, Saint Andrew.

High above the town, reachable by a steady hike, is the CapuccinniMonastery that offers fine views of the city. Now a hotel, some areas willbe off limits to visitors who are not guests of the hotel. A 15-minute boatride away is the Grotta di Amalfi, an ancient stalactite cave on the coast.One kilometer away along the coast road is the tiny little village of Atrani,picturesquely sitting along the mouth of a rocky gorge. In the main piazzais the 10th century church of San Salvatore, complete with Byzantinebronze doors cast in Constinantinople in 1087.

BEST SLEEPS & EATSSleepsLuna Convento is a wonderful four-star situated ina convent founded by St. Francis of Assisi in 1222.This place is awash with charm. Info: Via Comite33. Tel. 089/871-002, Fax 089/871-333.www.lunahotel.it. 45 rooms. Double €240-340; Suites€380-850. Credit cards accepted. Breakfast included.


La Bussola is a superb three-star hotel strategically placed directly on thewalkway along the sea in an old mill and pasta factory. A great place to stayin Amalfi. Info: Lungomare dei Cavalieri 16. Tel. 089/871-533, Fax 089/871-369. www.labussolahotel.it. 63 rooms. Single €70-95; Double €100-200. Credit cards accepted. Breakfast included.

EatsBarracca serves classic seafood cooking prepared with attention and servedperfectly. Info: Piazza dei Doggi, Tel. 089/871-285. Closed Wednesdays (notfrom June 15 to September 15) and January 15 to February 15. Credit cardsaccepted. Meal for two €45.

La Caravella is a little pricey but worth the expense. Info: Via MatteoCamera 12, Tel. 089/871-029. www.ristorantelacaravella.it. Closed Wednes-days (not in the summer) and November. Credit cards accepted. Meal for two€75.

Da Gemma represents the best of the local, traditional cuisine in Amalfi.Their terrace is a wonderful place to enjoy your meal. Info: Via Fra’ GerardoSasso 10, Tel. 089/871-345. Closed Wednesdays (not in the summer) and Jan15 to Feb 15. Credit cards accepted. Meal for two €55.

BEST SHOPPINGAbout five kilometers from Salerno is Vietri the ceramic capital of theAmalfi Coast. Info: take bus 10 from Amalfi. Nondescript as Amalfi Coasttowns go, it has an abundance of ceramic stores, all of which contain manydesigns unique to the region.

RavelloAbout five kilometers up the hill from Amalfi, Ravello is one of the mostenchanting spots in the world. Perched on a 350-foot high cliff overlookingthe azure sea of the Amalfi Coast, Ravello has preserved its historicalmonuments through the ages and incorporated them into everyday life.Info: www.ravello.it/aziendaturismo.

One of the most important monuments in Ravello is the Cathedral,founded in 1086. Here you can admire the Byzantine mosaic work on thepulpit, the bronze doors, and the civic museum located in the crypt. VillaRufolo is another sight to see, especially when the views are complimentedwith the many music festivals they offer, one of which is the Ravello Music


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Festival, which usually begins in July each year. Info: www.ravelloarts.orgor www.ravello.info.

The Villa Cimbrone also contains lush gardens and is known for itsbreathtaking views, which have been described by many as the best in theworld. Other sights to see while in Ravello are the church of San Giovannidel Toro with its mosaic pulpit; the Villa Episcopio where King VittorioEmanuele abdicated the throne; the cloister of the 13th century conventof St. Francesco with its amazing library; and the scenic Piazza FontanaMoresca.

BEST SLEEPS & EATSSleepsVilla Maria is a great four-star. Highly recommended. Info: Via SantaChiara 2. Tel. 089/857-255, Fax 089/857-071. www.villamaria.it. 18rooms. Single €160-190; Double €190-230. Credit cards accepted. Breakfastincluded.

Rufolo is a wonderful four-star with every imaginable amenity. An idealchoice for an unforgettable stay in Ravello. Info: Via S. Francesco 1, Tel.089/857-133. Fax 089/857935. www.hotelrufolo.it. Double €235-245;Suite €400-500.

EatsCumpa Cosimo is a great little trattoria, and is close to being my favoritein all of Italy. Info: Via Roma 44, Tel. 089/857-156. Closed Mondays (notin Spring and Summer). Credit cards accepted. Meal for two €40.

8. BAY OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST OPEN ROAD'S BEST OF ITALY 8. BAY OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST...

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Transcript of 8. BAY OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST OPEN ROAD'S BEST OF ITALY 8. BAY OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST...