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May 2010ISSUE 53

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Monkey on Thalane BayCover picture courtesy of: ton®

May 2010 – ISSUE 53

EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Thomas Gennarokrabimagazine@gmail.com089 9085990

ART GROUPCreative Director: Nattapat Sunthonphuriwat [Ton®] tonidesign@gmail.com - 089 7727858Graphic Designers: Bandit Kanjanavarodom [Lim]

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERSThomas Gennaro – Nattapat SunthonphuriwatCiaran Tierney - Rosie WaitesThe Lanta Retreat – Robby AttwaterDFDL Mekong Legal and Tax GroupCyril – Ton Company

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Krabi Magazine is published and produced by KitDee Media & Design Company Limited and is protected by Copyright. No parts of this publication can be used or reproduced in any form – printed, electronic, photocopy or otherwise – without the written permission of the publishers. The publisher reserves the right to refuse to publish adverts, texts or advertising features. Advertising terms and conditions are to be obtained at krabimagazine@gmail.com Please send submissions to krabimagazine@gmail.com

DISCLAIMERWhile great care has been taken in the receipt and handling of material, production and accuracy in this magazine, the publisher will not accept any responsibility for any errors, loss or omissions which may occur. The information and stories published are those of the writers and contributors, and do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher or the editor. The description of properties, the contents, whereabouts and price are given in this magazine as a guide only. Please request further details from the advertiser and seek legal advice before entering into any contract to purchase. All information and prices were correct at the time of going to press.

Welcome to Krabi

Thomas GennaroExecutive Editor

Krabi Province is considered to be one of the most beautiful regions in a beautiful country.

Krabi has it all, from the limestone karsts that characterize the region to world-class beaches,

islands, temples, markets, nightlife and shopping, the list is seemingly endless. Gastronomes will

find Krabi a sanctuary of fine dining and lovers of the great outdoors will find plenty to keep

them occupied - waterfalls, hot springs, national parks, elephant treks are all on offer and Krabi

is also one of the world’s premier destinations for rock climbing and scuba diving. The coral reefs

of the Andaman Sea are among the world’s best and the Railay Peninsula attracts climbers from

all over the world.

The passing of Songkran, the water festival, ushers in a new season – the Green Season, so called

because of the coming monsoon, and the transformation of the glorious Thai countryside into

swathes of greenery and lush, newly planted rice paddies. This is the time to venture into the

great outdoors of course. Treat yourself to a kayaking trip to Ao Thalane where natural treasures

await you, and where the season offers you its delights. Don’t miss on exercise and follow our

man in Ao Nang on a lungs-opening activity: jogging. We also explore a lush area of palm oil

and rubber plantations, attend a whisky and food pairing at Sheraton, and unveil Krabi’s history.

Though the sea starts to be a bit rough, there is still space for some glorious diving in Lanta:

follow Ciaran on his quest to become a divemaster. This month’s side articles include a piece on

historical Lanta Old Town and an article on Vipassana practice.

There is so much in our real estate section if you are after a property in Krabi. Our favourite

architect describes the success behind Villa Zoe; Lumyai Construction company help us to avoid

pitfalls during construction of your dream home; we clarify the issue of Leasehold – Freehold,

give tax advise on purchasing a property with a Thai company and help you to chose the right

agent to help you find your house in the sun.

Watch out for our extremely popular Krabi 81000 Miniguide and Krabi Maps series that are

massively available to visitors to Krabi and Koh Lanta, complementing the magazine and helping

you with your search for the best eats, nightlife, activities, boats and buses timetables, doctors

and banks, events; an endless array of information to make your stay reasonably organized. Find

Krabi 81000 Miniguide and Krabi Maps in your hotel lounge, in restaurants and pubs, at airport

and boat pier or in your favourite local travel agency. Browse them avidly and make use of our

local expertise. Look out for our logos, and BEWARE OF IMITATIONS!

We hope you find Krabi Magazine inspirational and helpful whether you come to Krabi to eat,

drink and relax on the beach or participate in any of the numerous activities on offer here in

Thailand. Enjoy the magazine, enjoy our Krabi Maps and 81000 Miniguides, and above all enjoy

your holiday!

Editorial

CONTENTS May 2010, issue 53

A Window on Krabi 9Highlights of this amazing province: town to temples, beaches to Islands, natural hotspots to cultural places.

Cover Story 12Canoeing through Ao Thalane gives an opportunity to admire scenic wonders such as amazing canyons, mangroves, caves, monkeys and overall explore a bay that is largely untouched by civilization. PLUS:Ao Thalane Factfile: The out and aboutKayaking: Everything you need to know about itGeographica: Ao Thalane fauna

Farming 20Did you know that Krabi is predominantly an agricultural based area, and that its main produces are respectively rubber and palm oil?

Sport 22Even in Green Season there is always something you can do just to get some fresh air in your lungs: jogging!

Times Past 24Krabi: the ancient times, the contemporary era, the name.

Archaeology 26Archaeologists have confirmed fossils of the world’s oldest primate have been found in a deserted coal mine in the southern province of Krabi.

Heath & Living 27Marina Yoga in Ao Nang features swimming classes for kids. Discover how your children can benefit from it.

Event 28Join the editor as he eats and drinks the night away at Chivas dinner party, in Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort.

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Koh Lanta 33Get the most out of Koh Lanta. Highlights, maps, reviews and articles:

Underwater World: Divemaster dreams on Koh LantaHeritage: Lanta Old TownHealth & Living: Vipassana practice

Real Estate 44Purchasing and making real estate investments made simple with Krabi Magazine.

Architect Tips: Tropical living at its bestConstruction: Avoid the avoidableGreat Ideas: The water millFAQ: Leasehold – Freehold structureKnow the Law: Buying Thai Property with a CompanyBuyer’s Guide: Real estate agents

Astroflash 62Divine Astrology is referred to as the Head and Tail of the Dragon. This month, the sign of Taurus analyzed.

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May 2010, issue 53

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Krabi Magazine 9

THE TEMPLELocated just 9 km from Krabi Town the Wat Tham Seua, or Tiger Cave Monastery, is one of south Thailand’s most famous and interesting forest temples, as the monks live, meditate and worship within a maze of natural caves in an overgrown jungle valley. Many Thai women live out their old-age there as nuns. Explore the inner cave used by monks for meditation. Climb the 1,237 steps up a limestone tower to see the statue of the Buddha and the “footprint of the Buddha” embedded in the rock, and to enjoy one of the best viewpoints of the area. Take the circular walk through Krabi’s rarest of all features, a pocket of primary lowland forest, a circular rocky basin enclosed by high cliffs. Here, along a pathway used by monks to meditate and amongst a number of magnificent trees you can be amazed in front of the largest flared root base of any tree remaining in Thailand.

THE CULTUREBan Natin, on the way from Ao Nang to Klong Muang, is the place to experience the peaceful lifestyle of the local Muslim community. Home accommodation is available, or you can simply make a stopover and see the production of handmade products such as batik paintings, pineapple-fiber paper and coconut shell carving.Wat Klong Thom Museum features various kinds of beads, stone tools, and stone and earthen ornaments in animal shapes of approximately 5,000 years old, uncovered during archeological excavations.Fire dancing, part of the beach culture, is a popular evening activity on the beaches of Koh Lanta, performed by acrobatic boys who swing burning torches around their bodies, creating sparkling artistic pictures.Ban Sang-Ka-U is a sea gypsy’s settlement in south-east Lanta Yai. It is there that an old clan of traditional Chao Ley try to preserve a disappearing way of life in this fast-developing island.

THE ISLANDSHop on or hire a longtail, the local wooden boats with their picturesque prows. Sail away to Koh Poda, surrounded by turquoise waters, or to Koh Kai, shaped as a chicken and therefore called the Chicken Island, from where a walk on a sandy pathway connects it to Koh Tub. Make a longtail boat or speedboat trip to the Koh Hong archipelago, a group of limestone islands with hidden caves and lagoons perfect for kayaking or snorkeling. Join an organized tour to amazing Koh Phi Phi islands, full of marvelous bays, limestone cliffs, waters rich in marine life, caves where swallow nests are harvested, and much more. Visit Koh Jum and Koh Siboya, small, unspoiled tropical hide-away that have a unique atmosphere. These islands still have no electricity and no cars and give visitors the time to relax and re-charge their batteries. Or venture out on Koh Lanta, the developing island at the southern end of the province home to sea gypsies communities, where you will meet nature and tradition. A National Park area that comprises many different islands surrounded by coral reefs, such as Koh Ngai and remote Koh Rok.

A window on Krabi

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Krabi Magazine10

THE BEACHESAo Nang, at 20km from Krabi Town, is the most developed of Krabi’s beaches, a long stretch of white sandy beach with limestone mountains as a backdrop. It has a wide range of accommodation and services and the main shopping street features restaurants, bars, pubs, souvenir shops, dive centers and tour agencies, massage centers and spas. This is the hub from which to plan your trip at sea and to the nearby islands on a typical longtail boat.Noppharat Thara beach, just around the corner from Ao Nang, is 3km long yet still undeveloped, with only a few resorts and bars. Attractive because of its natural setting, this is where local youngsters and families gather at sunset and at weekends. Savour some local Muslim snacks at the beach stalls, or fill yourself with seafood in the local restaurants at the very end of the beach, near the Noppharat Thara National Park headquarters. At low tide, walk out together with millions of small crabs on the sandy pathways to the small islands near the beach.Railay beaches are split and separated from Krabi and Ao Nang by monumental limestone mountains. Railay has two sides, east and west, and its settings are simply marvelous: crystal clear waters, pure sandy beaches, lush mountains, rocky islands emerging from the sea. Railay can only be reached by boat, a 15 minutes ride from Ao Nang or 30 minutes from Krabi Town. Enjoy a cocktail in one of the beach bars, visit the Phranang Cave, challenge yourself on a rock climbing course, hike the limestone massif to a lagoon and a viewpoint, or simply chill out. Neighbouring Tonsai lies at the base of a cliff which divides it form Railay West. Tonsai has a shallow beach with slow gradients out to sea which is profoundly affected by the tide.

Klong Muang beach is a further 20km away from Ao Nang; it is the up-market side of Krabi, the place to be if you are after a peaceful holiday. Catering to families and couples, it is here that you really get the so deserved repose, surrounded by pristine nature.Tubkaek beach is another real place to hide away; long, clean and peaceful, the area has breathtaking views over Koh Hong islands archipelago, and charming sunsets. From there you can venture inside the National Park and try a walking trail to a viewpoint and a waterfall. Koh Lanta beaches have a wide selection of resorts for all tastes and pockets. Lanta Yai island has long stretches of gleaming white sandy beaches and shallow emerald waters. Lined with tropical vegetation, a private spot is never more than a short walk away on a southern beach at Lanta Yai.

THE TOWNSmall, charming, silent at times, nice for a day’s walking tour. Krabi Town is full of old buildings, bars and restaurants, local exotic marketplaces and food stalls at the old Chao Fa pier where to sample the local food. The Krabi motto is: “lively town, lovely people”; Krabi’s simple people are definitely proud of their town and of their warm and generous character. Hop on a longtail boat at Chao Fa pier and visit Khao Kanab Nam, the unique pair of hills facing each other on the opposite banks of the Krabi River, symbols of the town; or embark on a journey to Koh Klang, an island next to town on the mouth of the river, where you will experience lives lived by the local fishing communities; or charter a boatman for a visit to the mangrove backwaters.

NATURAL HOTSPOTSLimestone mountains or karsts, characterize most of the inland Krabi area, the most spectacular being the massifs of Sai Tai.Susaan Hoi is a 40 million year-old seashell cemetery; once a large swamp where freshwater crustaceans proliferated, today home to 40 centimeter thick, shell encrusted limestone slabs, a geological uniqueness not far from Ao Nang. One must find a broken edge to see the shells clearly, since all of those on the upper surface have been walked on and worn down by the elements and are hard to identify.Khao Phanom Bencha National Park, at 20km from Krabi Town, comprises waterfalls, streams, lush forests and caves. It is home to all kind of flora and wildlife and to the highest mountain in the region from which it takes the name. One of the features of the park is Huay Toh Waterfall where water runs down onto several huge pools.Tarnbok Khoranee National Park, in the north of the region, consists of limestone mountains, verdant tropical forest, caves and beautiful islands. It is well-known for its different species of trees growing around a large natural crystal clear pool, and for the hundreds of birds’ species. Phi Hua Toh Cave, in the nearby Bor Thor area, surrounded by mangrove swamps and reachable by boat or kayak, is where to see pre-historic rock paintings depicting animals and humans. Sa Morakot, the Emerald Pool, is a natural wonder: a pond of turquoise water with an average temperature of 30-40C, fed by a hot spring in the middle of the jungle. Hot Springs of Klong Thom, natural Jacuzzis in which to lift away tensions and relieve body and mind with the mineral-enriched waters falling into rocky ponds.

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Story by : Thomas Gennaro

Photos by : Nattaphat Sunthornphuriwat

Canoeing through Ao Thalane gives an opportunity to admire scenic

wonders such as amazing canyons, mangroves, caves, monkeys and

overall explore a bay that is largely untouched by civilization.

Kayaking in Ao Thalane

Find the solace in nature with many surprises!

Last month I went to the Ao Thalane mangrove swamps to nurse my beach sunburn in hot Andaman coast. I was confronted by monkeys jumping on the kayak and a huge

monitor lizard, and paddled up “Thailand’s Grand Canyon”. I highly recommend it. Why? It is rejuvenating, utterly funny and eco-friendly, in one word: fantastic!

Harmonious was the day spent canoeing among the canyons and mangroves shadowed by towering rock cliffs at Ao Thalane Bay and surprisingly funny too: aren’t swimming and jumping monkeys right on the water’s edge or right into your Kayak and laps pleading for food utterly funny? Throw a banana or two into the salt-water if you don’t want a close encounter with the monkeys to see them swimming like fish, but be quick because if you are not they will swim or jump straight into you kayak and check for food and fresh water.

The above is just a brief synopsis of what was for me a real eco-tourism experience. What else would you describe an activity that uses as the only mean of driving force paddles operated by body energy (your own, I am afraid) and lets you explore up close a fragile ecosystem that has perhaps no equals in Thailand: a natural and beautiful bay of secret mangroves surrounded by towering karst formations and lovely offshore islands where navigation is possible only through a complex web of water channels cutting though canyons - which can be only navigated during low tides. To cruise this fragile and rich ecosystem with no sound, air or water pollution it is possible only with kayaks and canoes. What makes the experience even more unique is the fact the bay was only recently discovered, so it is almost unspoiled and relatively unexplored in its entire life-ecosystem.

Cover Story

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On the way to the main mangrove forest we stopped on a sandy beach, visited few hidden sea caves, had fruit refreshment in the middle of a lagoon better known as “hongs” (Thai for room - the hongs are created by collapsed caverns eroded by natural forces over millions of years. Some of them can be explored via tunnels when the tide is just right). The kids loved it.

As we abandoned the wide lagoons and started to penetrate into the thick mangroves, expert kayakers felt at home and were left to take in the beauty of the place. However, for a novice the experience can turn from rewarding exploration to extremely fun and comical one: trying to navigate your way throughout the narrow passageways and channels of the mangrove lagoon is quite a tricky business; nevertheless you are a tourist and even if you crash against fellow paddlers, mangrove hedges, cliff walls or monkeys, do as Thai people do: ‘take it easy’ – or as Thai people say “Sa Bai, Sa Bai” - and smile graciously; everyone will smile back, even the monkeys.

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It is true that in life you learn from your mistakes, it took half trip to realize that the paddler that makes the kayak steer is the one sitting in the rear and to realize that it was actually me – it became clear when the mangrove passageways became extremely curvy, narrow and bushy; it took the rest of the remnant trip to get some clue on how to make the kayak steer right or left. On few occasions the paddle got entwined in the mangroves; on few occasion we got stuck and had to push the paddles against the rocks or plants to get back in to track. However, all’s well that ends well, we managed to make it back onshore to the Kayak base-camp at Sea Kayak headquarters, of course not before admiring a huge monitor lizards sunbathing on a rocky.

Canoeing through Ao Thalane gives an opportunity to admire scenic wonders such as amazing canyons, mangroves, caves, monkeys and overall explore a bay that is largely untouched by civilization. Taking this unique kayaking safari allowed me not only to appreciate the luxurious fauna and flora of south of surrounding Krabi (and south Thailand) but also do it without damaging the environment.

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Ao Thalane FactfileHISTORYLittle over a decade ago Ao Thalane was unknown to the world apart from to a few local fishermen and intrepid explorers. Ao Thalane is a karst-walled canyon that paddlers negotiate by either entering or exiting the mangrove estuaries that make Ao Thalane so scenic and unique. This is the oldest exposed rock in all of Krabi. The sandstone was formed before the ancient reefs and shells of marine organisms, which make up today’s limestone karsts, were laid down upon it. More than 300 million years old, the ancient sandstone was eroded by wind and waves into sensuous shapes while mineral deposits have painted it in a hundred hues from pink and rose to mauve and cream.

LOCATIONAo Thalane is located just north of Ao Nang, about a 40-minute drive from Ao Nang or Krabi Town. Ao Thalane can be reached via highway N.4 direction Phuket; once in Au Luk District (40 minutes from Krabi) follow the English signs. There are also signs for Akanak Resort.

KAYAKINGA day trip to one of Krabi’s mangrove forests to paddle among the limestone karst is one of the most popular excursions for holidaymakers to the region. Ao Thalane offers a perfect opportunity for not only some of the region’s best kayaking – among the limestone cliffs lie tidal lagoons, caves, tunnels, an abundance of wildlife as well as some interesting rock art - but also easy access to one of southern Thailand’s most beautiful islands.

SEA KAYAKDiscover the magic of nature with Sea Kayak Krabi variety of adventure programs. Contact them on 075 630270, email marketing@seakayak-krabi.com , www.seakayak-krabi.com Booking with Ao Thalane specialist Sea Kayak Krabi will allow you to choose from tour programs that include hotel transfer, tour guides, fruit and water, insurance, equipment and lunch for a full day tour.

AKANAK RESORTFor more information and reservations check www.akanakresort.com , call 075 623448-9, 02 377 0886, 08 1490 5759, 08 1685 2354, or email akanakresort@yahoo.com - They have bikes for the guests and arrange private sunset trips to surrounding beaches and islands. Their restaurant serves great fresh food.

THE ENVIRONMENTWhen visiting Ao Thalane, please maintain the natural environment that you will find in the lagoons, mangroves, jungles, hongs and caves. We strongly discourage touching, eating, smoking and the removal of any flora and fauna as souvenirs. Choose a tour agency that limits the number of tourists in a group to avoid overcrowding. This ensures ‘low impact, high quality’ operations. We recommend the use of a traditional longtail boat.

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Kayaking is one of the most highly recommended activities here in Krabi. Take it from us because we’ve been on virtually ever tour and trip that Krabi Province can

throw at us. It’s not only because the Krabi region boasts some of the most amazing scenery which you are guaranteed to see but because kayaking is simply so much fun. In addition, it’s also environmentally friendly since it is totally muscle powered which also makes it a great form of exercise. It’s safe, inexpensive and is the only way to reach certain areas in this stunning part of the country.

So, where do we go?There are three main areas that we recommend. Koh Hong, Bor Thor and Ao Thalane.

Koh HongKoh Hong is a highly recommended destination in itself, the beaches there are sublime. Koh Hong is a group of Islands just of the Krabi coast. You should be able to see all of them on a kayaking trip. The main Island (Koh Hong) boasts stunning beaches, as good as you’ll see anywhere, but the highlight is paddling into the huge, secluded lagoon that gives the island its name. Go in low season and at low tide and you’re likely to have it all to yourself. It’s stunning and perfect for swimming too.

Bor ThorBor Thor is a small fishing village in Than Bok Koranee National Park that straddles the Bring River. The main attraction here is the numerous caverns and tunnels the wind through gorgeous swathes of mangrove forests. There are also a number of lagoons to explore as well as a huge cave with some pre-historic paintings adorning the walls and a superb viewpoint across the mangrove forest.

Ao ThalaneAo Thalane, like Bor Thor gives you another chance to lose yourself amidst mangrove forests. A tour of Ao Thalane will take among one of the most pristine areas of mangrove forest in Thailand. You’ll also get the chance to paddle through towering limestone canyons and enormous lagoons. Wildlife is also abundant here so keep a look out for fish, birds, crabs and monkey’s.

KayakingEverything you need to know about it

If this month’s kayaking article has inspired you to try it for

yourself then you’ll probably want some extra info on where to go

etc. Well, look no further –our guide to the region’s best spots

is right here. We give you the lowdown.

Story by : Thomas Gennaro

Photos by : Nattaphat Sunthornphuriwat

Factfile

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When To Go?It’s possible to visit any of these locations at any time of the year. The high season will almost guarantee you sunshine and cloudless skies but there will also be more people accompanying you on your trip. The low or rainy season is an even better time to go. Apart from the odd downpour the wet season offers some superb vistas across the water to the limestone karsts as they are often shrouded in a heavy mist this creates a beautifully eerie atmosphere and some intriguing views. Coupled with the call of birds and monkey’s you’ll think you’re in another time. If you are sensitive to the sun, consider a sunset tour. These leave in the late afternoon when it’s a bit cooler and will give you the chance to view the scenery bathed in the evening sun.

Can anybody do it and is it safe?One of the best things about kayaking is that you don’t need any prior experience or training. Anybody can do it! Your guide will outline a few basics before you go and that’s it. You’re off! The kayaks used are the open topped variety which means you don’t sit inside it like a white-water canoe you simply sit on top. This means they have drainage holes in them and while this means you might get a wet bottom, they are virtually unsinkable and life jackets are always provided.

Anything else?Yes, take a camera with you. Your guide will give you a ‘drybag’. These beauties do exactly what they say on the tin. They are made of waterproof pvc and have a rolldown water-tight top. Take a hat and sunscreen too and apply sunscreen before you go. You’ll spend some time in the open on any kayaking trip and the Thai sun can be very unforgiving. With the ocean breeze you may not notice being burnt.

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Ao Thalane fauna

Langurs and Long-tail Macaques are commonly seen foraging for leaves, fruit and crabs along this passage. The drone of cicadas from the jungle-shrouded cliffs, the

call of the Blue Rock Thrush, and the noisy chatter of kingfishers as they dart from branch to branch ahead of the passing canoes and kayaks are the only sounds to break the silence. The cool shade and shallow waters, reflecting the green of the lush canyon walls, make this a place that can truly soothe the soul.

There are myriad backwater channels beyond the canyon to explore the mangrove forest in intimacy. Giant Monitor Lizards and river otters are spotted at times, while sighting Crab-eating Macaques is virtually guaranteed. Frequent feeding of bananas and pine chunks to these primates have made them appear almost tame, but tame they are not. Feeding wild animals is never to their benefit, but often results in their ultimate demise.

A sandbar exposed at low tide in front of the canyon entrance is another worthwhile place for nature lovers to stop. Millions of burrowing crabs can be seen here moving across the sandbar like wildebeest crossing the vast African Serengeti. The locals too arrive here in droves to search for clams and other foods with every exceptionally low tide. The little fishing village of Baan Thaa Daan, backed by the majesty of the soaring karsts, is itself interesting to visit and easy to access, as all sea canoe trips begin and end here.

Fact File

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Various agricultural produce can be seen all around Krabi Province, but rubber and palm plantations predominate in the extraordinary

countryside scenery, and most noticeably these two produce are the main cash crop sustaining Krabi’s growing economy. Here are few curiosities and facts that I discovered about these two produces:

RUBBEROriginally, rubber was collected in balls of various rubber producing plants and wild trees in South America by its native population, such as the Aztecs or earlier Mesoamericans and South American tribes that had discovered its water proofing and elastic properties. Nowadays, 90% of rubber production comes from plantations of rubber trees in Southeast Asia, and South Thailand has its own share. Many plants produce latex, which oozes from cuts and injuries as a milky sap.

Rubber plantation owners and rubber collectors are predominantly Muslim. The rubber trees are tapped during the night, and the white latex collected at dawn. Driving around the province at 6am will give you the chance to observe laborers working inside the ordered lines of old rubber trees. They skillfully practice careful incisions on the tree trunks, as many as 3 per tree, and wait as the milky-looking juice descends and lands into halved coconut husks attached to the trunk, filling them with the sticky

Story by : Thomas Gennaro

Photos by : Nattaphat Sunthornphuriwat

Krabi’s main agricultural productions

Rubber and Palm Oil

Krabi province, with its natural attractions such as tropical islands,

palm fringed beaches, forest waterfalls and limestone cliffs, in recent years has earned its popularity worldly amongst

sun seeking and adventure-bound tourists. However, did you know that

Krabi is predominantly an agricultural based area, and that its main produces

are respectively, rubber and palm oil?

Farming

substance at a slow pace. Farmers usually cover themselves head to toe in order to protect from mosquitoes in these humid forests. The sight of newly rolled sheets of rubber hanging out to dry is common down every side road. Most rubber tapping families are pleased to show visitors how they turn the latex into sheets. But you have to turn up early.

PALM OILPalm oil is a form of edible vegetable oil from the fruit of the oil palm. Previously the second-most widely produced edible oil, after soybean oil, it may have now surpassed soybean oil as the most widely produced vegetable oil in the world. Palm oil itself is reddish because it contains a high amount of beta-carotene. It is used as cooking oil, to make margarine and is a component of many processed foods. Palm oil is one of the few vegetable oils relatively high in saturated fats (such as coconut oil).

Among the touted health benefits of palm oil, most notably red palm oil, are: rich in beta carotenes, especially red palm oil (crude palm oil is considered the richest natural source of carotenoids about 15 times more than in carrots) it is used by the human body as Vitamin A which enhances eye health and a biological antioxidants (protecting cells and tissues from the damaging effect of free radicals, which could cause cancer); it is an excellent dietary energy source; it is a very rich source of Vitamin A and E. Other advantages to be considered in using palm oil are that it is a stable oil in high temperatures (good for frying) and that it is a cheap vegetable oil (due to the oil palm’s high productivity).

Controversy does exist to the relation between palm oil consumption and blood cholesterol health issue. However, since all excess are notoriously negative, you can enjoy your pancake of choice fried in red palm oil while in Krabi province. And why not, have it in you kitchen back home too.

So now that you know a little bit more about your holiday destination, look around for the rubber and palm plantations that patch its countryside and ask your tour operator if they can arrange a visit to a rubber or palm oil plantation.

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During the green season here in Ao Nang, it is the time of the year when we locals go

into a sort of ‘hibernation mode’ of sorts until the rains ease up, the wind changes and the seas calm down and we can get

busy working again.

For the Western brain, doing nothing in Thailand can be somewhat of a challenge. The Thai people, on the other hand, are adept at it and can easily handle ‘wasting

time’. Unfortunately, it is way to easy to fall into the trap of drinking beer, watching 3 or more DVDs in a day, and being on first name terms with the pizza delivery boy. All of the above I myself am guilty as charged at the time of writing this!

It may seem like the perfect excuse, as at the height of the monsoon season, many of the restaurants are closed, the trips to places such as Poda Island and Railay run very infrequently, and in general, activities can easily get rained off. But for me at least, I would go nuts if I didn’t get out in the open at least for a while each day. There is always something you can do just to get some fresh air in your lungs, discover parts of the place many others will never know even existed, and the best part is, it’s completely free!

All you need is a pair of shorts, a T-shirt, running shoes, and most importantly, an alarm clock! Yes, the running shoes part most likely gave it away already, I’m talking about going for a run. Now the alarm clock is an important part as in order to have the best conditions for getting out an about, you need to get up early in the morning. The earlier the better is the case in Ao Nang, at least, as there is little traffic in town and most importantly, it is cool. When I decide to run, I try and start by 7:30am at the latest. After that, the sun is creeping higher in the sky and the humidity in the air can start to make things uncomfortable. Before this time is even better as the air is much cooler and much more bearable for exercising in. Also as you may have noticed, if it is going to rain here, it is more likely to rain in the afternoon, rather than the morning.

SportStory and photos by : Paul Stretton

Jogging Trails

Krabi Magazine 23

Now if you live in the town of Ao Nang itself, you have plenty of choices on where to go. You can of course follow the main roads down past Mc Donald’s, onto the beach road and up the other side. Then you can just turn back and retrace your steps to where you are staying. But there are other, more pleasant routes that are worth making the effort to run, especially as I am hoping you didn’t just come to Thailand to run past a Mc Donald’s! If you are close to Ao Nang beach in the morning, this is a great place to go - as long as the tide is out. The sand will be flat and firm enough to run with trainers, and the beach itself is 2km long from end to end, which makes for a much more interesting place to get sweaty in the morning. You will come across a few others with the same idea as you on this beach most mornings, as it is right in the middle of town, but off the main road and away from early morning traffic.

If you continue along the beach road, following it round the corner and past Kontiki Dive Centre, you will come to Noppharat Thara Beach. This is my location of choice if running in the town as it is usually deserted in the mornings, save for a few local Thai women doing their exercises before the start of a busy day. The beach here is also 2km long and as the water here lies very shallow, when the tide is out there is much more flat sand to run on. You are also presented with a wonderful view of the outlying islands on a clear day. Farther away from the town as you head away from it, again up the ‘Mc Donald’s road’, is a longer road that will take you to more rural areas - where people like me live! Here you will find less buildings and more green. There are rubber plantations and pineapple fields dotted along here if you explore the little dusty paths that lead off the main road.

The best idea when heading out for a run is to just try going down paths to see where they lead you. You may find yourself in the middle of a little hidden village of local people washing clothes, huddled around cooking breakfast, or chasing after squealing children. The beauty of this place is that you will rarely be trespassing and a friendly smile and a wave will always be appreciated and reciprocated. All roads seem to lead back to town here, so don’t worry about getting too lost! People will always point you in the right direction if you ask them.

A good 40 minute run early in the morning does wonders for you, both physically and mentally. It gives you energy and a positive outlook on the rest of the day, even if you plan to spend it swinging in a hammock reading a book! I have found in my 3 years living here that it is the single best way to see a side of the place that not many people get to see, and at a beautiful time of the day to boot. So if you are feeling a bit ‘blue’ and not quite sure what to do for the best, try going for a run, or jog, or just a walk somewhere different and you may be surprised at what you can do and see right here in Ao Nang.

Krabi Magazine24

Pronounced ‘Gra-bee’, this small town located 814 kilometers from Bangkok is not a particularly attractive one in the conventional sense but a real rough diamond that tourists use as a base for

visiting the major attractions and save time, hassle and money. Visitors take advantage of Krabi’s fantastic night and day markets at various sites around the town and indulge in the magnificent views to be enjoyed from the riverbanks. Krabi today is the main port of entry to the province and indeed a bustling fishing port on the mouth of the Krabi River. It is finally developing and acquiring the reputation as a worldwide famous destination, and its history is an ancient one…

ANCIENT TIMESKrabi is a southern province on Thailand’s Andaman seaboard with perhaps the country’s oldest history of continued settlement. According to archaeological evidence, the area that is now called Krabi province had been a community since prehistoric period, yet there was no documentary evidence about this. After dating archaeological discoveries such as stone tools, ancient colored pictures, heads, pottery and skeletal remains found in the province’s many cliffs and caves, it is thought that Krabi has been home to Homo sapiens since the period 25,000-35,000 B.C. In recorded times it was called Ban Thai Samor, used a monkey as the town symbol and was one of twelve Thai royal cities. The first recorded history dates 1,200 A.D., when Krabi, or Ban Thai Samor, was tributary to the Kingdom of Ligor, a city on the Kra Peninsula’s east coast better known today as Nakorn Si Thammarat.

200 YEARS AGOAt the start of the Rattanakosin period, about 200 years ago, when the Thai capital was finally settled at Bangkok, elephants roamed wild in this area and an elephant kraal was established in Krabi by order of Jao Phraya Nakorn (Noi), the Rajah and Governor of Nakhon Si Thammarat, which was by then a part of the Thai Kingdom. He sent his vizier, the Phra Palad, to oversee his task, which was to ensure a regular supply of elephants for the larger town. So many emigrated in the steps of the Phra Palad and settled down here that soon Krabi had a large community divided in three different boroughs: Pakasai, Klong Pon,and Pak Lao.

Historical Krabi Town

Times PastPhotos by : Nattaphat Sunthornphuriwat

IN 1872During King Chulalongkorn’s (Rama V) reign (1868-1910), this land was called Pakasai sub-county under the direct jurisdiction of Nakhon Si Thammarat province. In 1872, King Chulalongkorn graciously elevated Pakasai sub-county to town status and called it Krabi, a word that preserved in its meaning the monkey symbolism of the old standard. The town’s provincial administration office was situated at Krabi-yai sub-county (in Muang district at present) and Krabi’s first governor was Luang Tehp Sena. Krabi continued for a while to be a dependency of Nakhon Si Thammarat. This changed in 1875, when Krabi was raised to a fourth level town in the old system of Thai government in Bangkok. Administrators then reported directly to the central government in Bangkok, and Krabi’s history as a unique entity, separate from the other provinces, begun. In 1900 the governor moved the center of the province from Ban Talad Kao to its present location at the mouth of the Krabi River.

KRABI NAMEAs for the origins of the name Krabi, two legends co-exist. The first has it that villagers presented a large ancient sword (krabi in Thai) unearthed by chance to the governor. They also did the same when a smaller sword was found later. The governor regarded these two swords as sacred and auspicious, and as the provincial establishment was still in progress, he had them placed crossing each other in the cave named Khao Khanab Nam. This was the origin of the province’s emblem: two crossed ancient swords in front of the Indian Ocean and the Phanom Bencha Mountain, with 1397 meters above sea level the highest mountain of the province. According to the second legend, Krabi would derive from the name of the local tree Lumphi. The Malay and Chinese merchants pronounced it incorrectly Ka-lu-bi or Kho-lo-bi, which finally turned the name into Krabi.

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Krabi Magazine26

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TO AO NAM MAO - SHELL FOSSIL

Confirmation of the age of the fossils was published in the scientific journal Anatomical Record in November 2009, with the discovery reputed the best evidence yet that primates, an order that includes

humans like us, originated in Asia and not Africa, with the oldest primate fossil found in Africa is ‘only’ 32 million years old. This indeed give a whole new dimension to questions like “where do we come from?”

The fossils found at the old mine in Nua Khlong district of Krabi include lower right molars and upper left and right molars attached to the eye bone. “These are the most perfect pieces of primate fossil we’ve found in the country so far,” Mineral Resources Department senior fossil expert said. The Thai archaeologists have worked closely with experts from France and Switzerland to study the fossils and concluded the primate was around the same size as a gibbon and weighed about 7kg.

The team of archaeologists earlier found pieces of upper and lower molars and a few teeth of Siamopithecus eocaenus, also known as the Siam Ape, at the same site in 1995, but they are not as complete as the ones found in 1996. The Siam Ape, which is of the Amphipithecidae family, was recorded in Nature magazine in 1997 as the world’s newest primate species.

Archaeologists have confirmed fossils of the world’s oldest primate have been found in a deserted coal mine in the southern province of Krabi. The fossils was discovered by Mineral Resources Department archaeologists 14 years ago and named Siamopithecus eocaenus. It roamed Krabi 35 millions of years ago.

Krabi: cradle of

humankind?

Archaeology

siamopithecus: A computer image of the jaw and teeth of the oldest primate.

Source : Bangkok Post

Krabi Magazine 27

Swim with KidsHi, my name is Marina, I run a Yoga and Reiki center in Ao Nang. Back in

Germany, I looked after children in my own kindergarten for over 15 year, and

also worked as a swimming instructor in a public pool. Here in Thailand, I teach Yoga

and Swimming to kids aged 3 and over.

During my years in Krabi, I have often noticed several kids and adults are not able to swim confidently. I have now been giving swimming lessons

to kids in Ao Nang for a year now. I find this inspiring, all kids take their time in learning how to swim in an enjoyeable way. They also learn about the relationship between our body and the water and also to pay the right respect for deeper water and for our environment.

THE EASY AND THE UNEASYSome of the kids I teach to have had bad experience with deep water in the past; they are just scared about getting in the water in the first place. We always give them plenty of time to accustom themselves with water, until they feel safe in it. On the other side, some kids are not scared or respectful of water at all, they just jump in, increasing their chances of drowning if nobody is there watching them. At Marina Yoga, I teach them how to judge their limits and how to be respectful of deeper water. I have Equipment that helps children to learn to get the right education and make the proper movements while they swim. I also teach the kids how to breathe properly and how to get a feeling of confidence and a connection with their body in the water.

MOTIVATIONMost of the children love to be in the water. After a few lessons they get more self-confidence and are able to focus and to get the right balance, to be relaxed in the water. All kids taking swimming lessons at Marina Yoga can’t wait for the next time they get into the water with me!

WHY THEY SHOULD DO ITIt is important for each of us to learn swimming, especially as we live so close to the sea. Also, swimming is one of the healthiest physical movements possible, and an important one that can improve our physical condition from an early age.

MOTIVATIONWe don’t need much motivation to get the kids into the water, because they all love to play in that element. When they feel more confident, they realize their swimming improvement and self confidence, and are able to get more fun; that’s the real incentive for all kids. Most kids know each other from yoga class, and like to and get together at the swimming pool every Saturday morning to learn and play. Their social manners improve and they all learn how to respect and to help each other in and out of the water.

RECRUITMENTMost kids in the swimming course know each other; word of mouth is always great. Parents talk to each other about the yoga classes I give, and get interested in the swimming lessons as well. They find it great to see their children so happy in the pool.I have never had any problems with the different languages as I speak Thai, German and English; most kids in my classes speak English, and even when they don’t, they get the other kids to help out with whatever language is handy.

Swimming is a great activity for your kids. When our kids feel safe in the water and have the confidence to understand safety around a swimming pool, they apply the same concepts in rivers and in the ocean.

Marina Yoga also offers Yoga, Reiki, personal training and more. Feel free to call 087 8981506 regarding swimming lessons for kids, or visit Marina Yoga center in Ao Nang. You can also browse www.marinayoga.com

Health & Living

Krabi Magazine28

An intimate group of high profile friends and business people from Krabi, Surat Thani and Trang, as well as members of the press

gathered in Klong Muang last month for a dinner party hosted by Chivas Regal as part of a traveling event series to showcase its premium blends. “I am proud to be here sharing with you a unique tasting and fine dining,” Chivas Regal representative Khun Teerawat said.

After an introductory discourse, Khun Teerawat introduced Chivas family of 12 to 18 years legendary whiskies, as well as the ultra premium addition to the world famous Chivas Regal family – Chivas Regal 25 Year Old, unveiled in 2008 by Master Blender of Chivas Regal, Colin Scott.

He then joined the central table of the restaurant dining area, occupied by Krabi Sheraton GM Khun Chatchawan, former Mayor of Krabi Khun Chuan Phukaoluan and other personalities. An army of waiters dressed in black, at a ratio of almost one per diner, served us bruschetta followed by foie gras strangely combined with five-spices bread and pineapple sauce, and accompanied by Chivas 12 years that flowed freely to our glasses.

After that, a video with the history of Chivas was projected: how it was planted underground a grocery store in 1801, and how it developed to be part of history. Chivas is made in the most suitable place in Scotland, where the water is the best blend. We also learn that Chivas has no standard whisky, only Premium 12 years old upwards.

Whisky: a delight usually refrained from until after dinner, usually paired with a cigar. But

pairing whisky with food? General opinion has always held that it’s too strong, in flavour and in alcohol. Even in Scotland there isn’t much of

a tradition of drinking whisky with dinner. But if you’re a whisky fan, why reserve your favorite

whisky for the end of the meal when you could drink it the whole evening?

Last month, Chivas Regal hosted a dinner party at Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort

EventStory by : Thomas Gennaro

Photos by : Sheraton Krabi Chivas Whisky & Food Matching

Krabi Magazine 29

The lemon sorbet mixed with Chivas blended in all previous flavours and prepared the mouth for the main courses. A Khun Teerawat in splendid form made his second speech introducing Chivas Grand Whisly, a single malt blended with a grand malt to produce Chivas 18. A new product in the market, every bottle of this signature whisky from Master Blender Colin Scott comes in a special unique box.

It’s certainly a coup for whisky to be championed by a high-profile chef. Sheraton’s chef Frederique introduced himself and explained the concept of the menu, European Based with all dishes containing a bit of the amber nectar.

Whisky and dinner may be a confusing melange for some foreigners, eventually recognized Khun Teerawat. It is however a custom for Thais, who are used to having a bottle of whisky on the table and enjoy it throughout the course of their meal.

The rest of the dinner included choreographically served scallops, fresh and tasty, and lamb with goat cheese crust; I am a fan of lamb meat, and this dish was impressive. Diners saw presentations during the meal, and eventually received a gift bag containing a leather wallet from Chivas Regal.

Sheraton GM Khun Chatchawan closed the evening saying: “It is indeed true whisky is not to be drank alone but in good company. I am so fund of friendships and good company, and the same could be said of tasting a well-crafted whisky that has spent so much time reaching perfection – you savour every last drop and don’t want the experience to end.” Scottish people drink their whisky and say: Salangewa, like the 100 pipers returning from battle as winners. We all drunk up the last whisky glass and dropped the remaining drops onto our head, shouting: Salangewa!

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Krabi Magazine 33

Koh Lanta is situated in the southernmost tip of the Krabi province. It

consists of two islands, Koh Lanta Noi and Koh Lanta Yai. Koh Lanta Noi

is the smaller of the two islands and does not have tourist facilities. Visitors

traveling by road from the main land pass through the smaller island on

the way to Koh Lanta Yai, the center of the tourist operations. Ban Sala

Dan village, in the north of the island, is Lanta Yai’s commercial center, and

the pier where visitors arrive on the island. It is a row of shops, seafood

restaurants on stilts, dive shops, tour operators, banks and guest houses

that cater for new comers on the island. The bulk of the Lanta beaches

lie along the west coast of the island and can all be reached by road: Kho

Kwang, Khlong Dao and Phra Ae all have long stretches of white sand facing

the Andaman sea, while Khlong Khong, Khlong Nin and Ba Kan Tiang and

other smaller bays are all nice to relax and swim but might appear less

stunning.

The east coast of Koh Lanta Yay is flat and has many local villages scattered

along its coastline. Koh Lanta has a very diverse cultural mix of people who

have lived on the island in harmony for hundreds of years: Thai-Muslim,

Thai-Chinese and the original sea gypsies still inhabit the place in harmony.

The biggest town on the island is Lanta Old town.

Boat trips to Koh Lanta are available during the monsoon free period from

October to April. May to November see the closure of some of the island

businesses and of the boat passenger services due to rough seas. A minibus

service is the alternative way to reach the island via land. For boat schedule

to/from Koh Lanta consult our Krabi Miniguide 81000.

Lanta Old TownIt was once called Ban Si Raya and was the commercial port for Chinese and

Arabic trading boats that sailed between the ports of Phuket, Penang and

Singapore. Today it is a village with a few rows of stilted shop houses home

to an ancient community that was established on the island long ago. It is

a picturesque place with, these Chinese timer shop-houses date back 100

years, from the old days of sea trading. Near the shacks along the coast,

local fishermen dock their longtail boats giving the whole scene a very Thai

look.

Ba Kantiang BeachSpectacular crystal–clear seawater and soft white sand, romantic sunsets in

utmost privacy, this is why Ba Kantiang has come to symbolize an hideaway

in Lanta for relaxing in natural surroundings.

Lighthouse on LantaLocated in Tanod Cape, on the southernmost tip of the island, the lighthouse

tower of Lanta is the perfect symbol of solitude.

It is the place where immaculate nature still survives as it is rarely reached

by tourists due to the rugged road conditions.

Koh Lanta National ParkThe park covers a marine area dotted with several small sandy islands

surrounded by coral reefs. The headquarters is located on the island’s

southern extremity.

Ban San-ka-uA sea gypsy’s settlement in south-east Lanta Yai. It is there that an old clan

of traditional Chao Ley try to preserve a disappearing way of life in this fast-

developing island.

Eco-toursThese are run all year round from the east coast of Lanta Yai, not affected by

the low season rough seas.

Make your way to Thung Yee Pheng village for a trip with a local community

- www.tungyeepeng.com, or book a tour with friendly and experienced Sun

Tours - www.lantalongtail.com

NatureBecause of its bio-diversity and richness of natural resources, Lanta is a good

place for trekking. Explore limestone cave chambers and passageways in the

Lanta caves, or walk upstream to the spring water waterfall, where to swim

in cool rock pools.

Fire DancingThis is definitely one interesting part of the Lanta beach culture. A fire

dancing show is usually performed by young boys performing twisting

acrobatics swinging burning torches and ropes lit on fire around their

muscular bodies. A distinguishing show that sparkles in the dark.

Koh Lanta HighlightsKoh Lanta

Somehow, ten days or three weeks never seemed to be enough, and the thought of returning to my wet and windy hometown

each November or December used to fill me with dread. Days spent diving at Koh Haa or Hin Daeng, or touring the island on my hired motorbike, seemed to be light years away from the winter gloom I had left behind for two to three weeks each year. But I never did much about turning my dreams into reality, apart from a few half-hearted inquiries at the reception of my bungalow at Phrae Ae (Long Beach) or a few brief chats with the staff at my favourite dive centre, Blue Planet Divers, in Saladan. After diving for fun for 11 years, I felt that the chance to become a PADI Divemaster had passed me by.

And then, out of the blue, the financial crisis hit Ireland. My boss, acting out of financial necessity rather than any huge desire to see my dreams come true, asked whether there was anyone interested in a 12 month career break. Not one other person in my company put up their hand, but suddenly I found myself blurting out that I wanted to get away for a year to become a professional diver. Emails were exchanged with Mellisa Bunyan, co-owner of Blue Planet, after my boss gave me a few months to make up my mind. Mellisa was full of enthusiasm and encouragement, as she had taken the same route (i.e., a career break) into the dive industry herself a few years earlier. She had no regrets about leaving a well-paid job in London behind and sent on all the necessary advice about getting the visas required to spend four months in Thailand.

Divers planning their dive on the Blue Planet Divers Boat

Kevin completing a skill circuit with student divers

It had always been something of a dream. On four previous visits to the Krabi region,

and Koh Lanta in particular, I used to fantasize about extending my holiday in

order to turn the hobby I love into a whole new career. But reality always seemed to

get in the way of my dreams!

Words by: Ciaran Tierney

Photos by: Rosie Waites

Underwater World

Divemaster dreams on Koh Lanta

Krabi Magazine 35

Divemaster Trainee Jane conducts a briefing

Mellisa teaching Dive Theory

Ciaran loading up the boat ahead of a day’s diving

And so in early January, a little anxious but also very excited, I found myself on a plane bound for Bangkok, and then Krabi. On the ferry to Koh Lanta, I hardly had time to consider what lay ahead as I chatted to a couple of fellow tourists, before I found myself, rucksack in tow, walking into the Blue Planet shop which was to be my base for the next three months. Mellisa had already fixed me up with a bungalow at the back of the acclaimed Red Snapper restaurant and, within hours of my arrival, I had a lovely motorbike, which was to become my mode of transport over the following weeks and months.

Being slightly older than the ‘normal’ Divemaster (DM), I was still full of trepidation as to what lay ahead at first. Who would I meet? What would the skinny and super-fit 20-something instructors make of this big Irishman in the midst of his midlife crisis? My fears were totally unfounded. From day one, I was made to feel part of the team. I had to be on the jetty 45 minutes before the customers, but I got to know how the whole dive operation worked from the shop and the office to the boat, which departed for glorious dive sites in the Krabi region each morning. I soon discovered that I was the eighth and last DMT (Divemaster Trainee) to join Blue Planet for the season. And they didn’t all fit the stereotypes I had conjured up in my head!

I was totally inspired by English couple Chris and Jane, in their late 40s, who had decided to change their lives and sell their home after she had bravely battled a serious illness two years earlier. They were full of enthusiasm and encouragement in the first few weeks, when I wondered whether or not I should have been there in the first place! There were the two French-speaking girls, Aude and Sabrina. Aude moved to Sweden in March after falling in love with one of our customers, while Sabrina was so sad to be going back to France at the end of her course that her only desire was to sell her car, get rid of her flat, and move back to Thailand to work as a Divemaster! Then there was Luke, from England, who was just finishing the course as I began it in January. He had also left a career behind in the UK to try something new and helped me to improve my dive skills, which had become ‘rusty’ over a decade of diving since I first undertook the Open Water course in cold Irish waters. Well-travelled Emma, from London, was delaying her return home after a year in Australia and 20-something Raghnild (or Raggi, as she became fondly known at the dive centre), from Norway, was perhaps the party animal of the 2010 DMTs. She enjoyed her nights out, but it’s hard not to enjoy the beach bars and restaurants of Koh Lanta!

At first, things moved quite slowly, and boring days of learning dive theory in the Blue Planet classroom, when I really wanted to be on the boat, made me wonder from time to time whether the whole course was worth the effort. In the first few weeks, my appearances on the boat were rather infrequent – and sometimes I’d receive rude awakenings when I was asked to go back over the basic skills! – but later I could see the logic behind Mellisa’s approach. After getting the boring stuff out of the way in peak season, when there were more customers on the boat, we had more time for quality dives through the months of March and April.

Krabi Magazine36

Those who know me might find it hard to believe I’ve chosen a hobby or job that involves getting up at 5.30 am on certain days, but there is a magic about spending two hours under water, looking at turtles or leopard sharks or rays or tiny shrimp, which only fellow divers can really understand. It was great to dive with a variety of instructors over the three months, learning each professional’s quirky ways of dealing with customers, how they brief dives, or how they guide the guests around the beautiful sites of the Andaman Sea.

Every day, whether in the shop or on the boat, I seemed to be learning something new, which I could hardly say about the job I’d been in for years in Ireland. If we weren’t diving, we were practicing basic skills on Long Beach or helping out in the shop, where a variety of customers from all over the world took part in Open Water, Advanced, and Rescue courses. Diving really is a great way of meeting new people. By their nature, dive professionals are a sociable bunch, so even though I’d come to Lanta on my own I soon found myself with a whole new set of friends from a host of countries. Every week there seemed to be a party or two and the socializing could get quite frantic for people who had to be up and on the boat at the crack of dawn! As each and every one of us passed the course, the infamous ‘snorkel tests’ loomed. For some DMTs, this was tougher than the course itself as they were put through gruelling and amusing tasks at Opium Bar.

Highlights of my time on Koh Lanta included the Andaman Freediving Challenge, the only competition of its type in Thailand, in February and the three day Laanta Lanta festival in which the whole island seemed to party together in Lanta Old Town, with bands from all over South East Asia playing into the early hours. Plus, of course, the lunacy of the Songkran (Thai New Year) celebrations in April. At one stage, Mellisa managed to coax the male members of staff to pose for a charity 2011 calendar which is bound to be a big seller on Koh Lanta . . . thankfully, I will be off the island by the time that appears! Sightings of sleepy leopard sharks and turtles became so frequent that it was easy to forget how exciting they were for the customers on the boat and, after a good deal of practice, I finally got my rusty basic skills in order before finishing the course in April.

So now I’m a PADI Divemaster, licensed to guide divers all over the world. And was it worth it? Well, even if I never end up working as a PADI Divemaster in the long term, I can honestly say that my three months on Koh Lanta were among the best experiences of my life.

For information about pursuing the PADI Divemaster course on Koh Lanta, including three-month internships, check out www.blueplanetdivers.net

Ciaran assists a student diver put her kit together

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Krabi Magazine 39

The old town of Koh Lanta is a traditional fishing village on the eastern side of the island, and is certainly not

to be missed. Here, you will find the traditional wooden homes of the local fishing community, as well as local handicrafts for sale. To find the village, simply take the main island road south – the best idea is to rent a motorcycle, as you can then take your time and enjoy the scenery along the way.

Lanta Old Town is one of the region’s most culturally diverse villages with Chinese merchants, original Thai fishing families and an ancient Sea Gypsy community. Many years ago, Koh Lanta Old Town acted as the port and commercial center for the island and provided a safe harbor for Arabic and Chinese trading vessels sailing between the larger ports of Phuket, Penang and Singapore. There is so much to see – mangrove forests, rice fields, pink shrimp farms, and exceptional views of the southern islands of the archipelago. Flora and Fauna are abundant; it is not uncommon to come across an iguana or two, sunbathing in the middle of the road.

A visit of this part of the island will give you a taste of ‘real’ life within a local Thai community. Be careful of course to respect the privacy of the locals, and ask permission before taking any photos. These people will welcome you to their village, but are often very shy when faced with strangers. All the same, you will definitely learn a lot about their culture during your visit.

Heritage

Lanta Old TownThe land of the ‘Sea Gypsies’

Krabi Magazine40

This meditation technique is the first of Budda´s (Siddharta) great contributions to

mankind and it is more than 2500 years old. It is the origin to the very fashionable mindfulness; Vipassana can be practiced by followers of any religion and it is the path to freedom, happiness and peace. It truly can change your life…

Practicing Vipassana is a demanding and wonderful challenge. To conquer ourselves, our mind: that is true victory. To learn to observe the emotions and sensations that comes from within or the outside world and not to become one with them. Just observing them and learning so much about ourselves. Because freedom is not to be controlled by our feelings and emotions.

The Vipassana practice consists in both walking and sitting meditation. The sitting and walking should be the same amount of time for a balanced practice; we often begin with 30 minutes of walking and then 30 minutes of sitting. The time span increases day by day until we reach 1 hour walking and 1 hour sitting. There are 6 different steps to be taught. It is very beautiful to watch someone that truly masters this knowledge. We learn step by step, walking in slow motion, in order to manage this demanding technique.

Health & Living

Vipassana

Story & Photos : The Lanta Retreat

Insight Meditation

This article is provided by Annelie at The Retreat, located in Klong Dao Beach. Contact them for more information on 08 46751094 or check www.theretreatthailand.com

This very slow way of walking feels very odd at the beginning, but through patience you will get the hang of it and even learn to enjoy it. When you have managed this, you will be in a deep meditative state even though you are just walking. The sitting meditation is of course also demanding. Just to sit without movement is very hard at the beginning. But after a while it becomes easier as your meditation becomes deeper and your body becomes more used to the meditation posture.

At the end of the month I am off to a silent temple retreat; I will share my experience in the next issue of Krabi Magazine. Thanks to all.

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Krabi Magazine 45

Ton Company is proud to introduce the latest villa in their rental

portfolio, Baan Zoe.

Real Estate - Architect Tips

Tropical living at its bestStory : Pierre-Yves Loriers

Vacation rentals are increasing in popularity all the time; and Krabi Villas by Ton Company Ltd is pioneering the trend towards serviced homes in the Krabi region. As

well as designing and building pool villas, Ton Company also markets and manages six luxury properties, all offering their well-known brand of service. In addition to the high level facilities already in each villa, all guests benefit from a complimentary transport service around the local area, as well as to and from the airport; and an on-call personal assistant who can arrange anything from a Thai chef to in-house massages, as well as day trips and excursions.

The latest addition to their portfolio, Baan Zoe, is a 580sqm three-bedroom, four-bathroom villa, with separate guest bungalow, set in a lush tropical garden of 3200sqm, featuring a 14 x 6.5m freeform salt water pool. All architecture and construction was carried out by Ton Company in 2008. The villa is owned by a Swiss couple, Didier and Corinne Wittmer who, after living in South East Asia for many years, wanted to create a home fusing “the best of all worlds”. This is not only translated into “East meets West”, though naturally, Mrs Wittmer explains, they have “included all modern appliances, particularly a top of the range kitchen” into the Thai-roofed property. The villa’s stylish interior design features both modern and antique furniture: a solid teak wood dining set from Chiang Mai stands alongside oversized Italian leather sofas.

Krabi Magazine46

Ton Company Ltd., with ten years of experience, is a leading manager and developer of exclusive holiday pool villas

in Krabi, Thailand. For more information on the comprehensive villa design, construction and management services

offered by Ton Company Ltd, please contact us at (075) 695-633 or by email at Ton@TonCompany.com.

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There is also a strong emphasis on indoor-outdoor living, from the high ceilings and tall windows in the large open plan living area, to each of the three bedrooms offering direct garden access – “also ideal for groups who need separate entrances to their living space,” points out Mr Wittmer. The villa’s guest bungalow, with ensuite bathroom, is also very private, tucked away in the garden, and so cannot be seen from the main house. But while there is ample privacy for guests, there is also a great balance of private and communal spaces. There are plenty of areas for convivial gatherings, from the dedicated outdoor dining room and terrace, to the open-air living room by the poolside. There is even a piano in the villa for those who wish to have an after dinner singsong. And a stroll through the garden, past the massage pavilion, will take you to Mr Wittmer’s favourite area, with the barbeque, bar and pétanque court.

Of course, the villa is equipped to a very high standard, from the LCD televisions to the WI-FI Internet connection. The master bedroom features walk-in closets and a spa style bathroom with outdoor Jacuzzi and shower. There is also a great attention to detail. Mrs Wittmer is keen to point out the different features in the vast garden: “there are so many little corners to discover,” she says, “from a sleeping Buddha or antique vase, to a garden swing. And there are all the fruit trees. We have planted mangoes and pineapples, and there are always so many birds.” The foliage is indeed impressive; and there are many rare species of orchids around the grounds. All is lit by solar-powered lighting at night.

“Baan Zoe is a unique property,” says Pierre-Yves Loriers, the managing director of Ton Company. “Its size and the fact that it was created as a luxury home at the outset, makes it superior to the average vacation rental. I am confident that it will surpass the expectations of even our most demanding clients.”

Krabi Magazine 49

Story by : The Lumyai Group Ld

“Anyone who has never made a mistake has never

tried anything new” - Albert Einstein.

Avoiding the avoidable

This month and the following month’s articles are based solely upon the many pitfalls that one will face when taking on the huge task of building their dream house here in Thailand. Please bear in

mind that this is my opinion and it is only that, an opinion. The homeowner’s work begins with hiring the contractor or a local building team. Communication is everything. Costly mistakes, poorly thought-out decisions, inadequate planning, failure to pay attention to the details, and inattention to budget can plague the best-intentioned home construction project. Building a home is an incredibly complex process and a number of small mistakes will happen. You can avoid the biggest and costliest mistakes if you do your homework early on, try to discuss aspects with your builder clearly, and always try to respect the people building your home. Even at the most frustrating of times.

BIDDING ON THE PRICE

An associate once gave me a piece of advice I will never allow myself to forget regarding doing business in Thailand... He said the following: “Haggle and bargain by all means, it’s expected due to their culture and ways, but never forget that the extent of your bargaining will almost certainly have an immediate affect regarding the quality of the finished product. This has rung true on various occasions. The Thai contractor, especially the local builder needs jobs; he has a team, which requires on-going work. This means that he almost certainly accept any negotiated price, no matter how low it is just to keep his team busy. This will have an effect on the finished job due to workers not getting paid on time and deadlines being missed due to cash flow problems. These are just a few examples.

Firstly, be sure to carefully select a list of competent contractors. Almost certainly ask to have a look at examples of their work. Once happy that what they have showed you is work they have actually done, hand them your plans and wait until they come back with a breakdown of costs regarding labor and materials. It can be awfully tempting to simply assess all cost breakdowns and go with the lowest bid. If you really trace down the nightmares involved in building, you will find that a large part of the problem is that people go for the low-bid price. Also remember that when somebody bids something too low, they may have done it on purpose and plan to make it up later, or they may have done it accidentally. Either way, they’ll soon be in trouble because they’re losing money. On some level, they may start doing things subconsciously like shaving time and cutting corners. Who wants that?

Create your own guidelines when figuring out the estimate. This means putting together a list of specific tasks that each contractor will have to treat similarly. Example, Concreting quantities, Roof structure material allowance, Quantity of bricks etc… If you have quotes from say four different teams,

Construction

Part one: Negotiation

they should be fairly close in terms of material estimation. The more you study and spend time going over the areas stated above the more you will start to understand how things get done. Take a look at the plans of your house and how you would breakdown the overall costing. It is doubtful that you will cover everything but try and give it a go. I won’t digress too much regarding price structure and cost per m2 here in due to the flexibility of the subject. In other words it pays to do your homework. Be frugal but within reason. If after reading this you require any more info to do with typical price breakdowns please contact me and I’ll be happy to assist.

This article was supplied by The Lumyai group Ltd, a Development and Construction company based in Krabi. For all your Construction and Home renovation needs please contact our English speaking team for your free quote and any advice required. Please visit our web-site www.lumyaihomes.com to view our latest project.

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- Tax and accounting- Real estate expertise- Litigation and dispute resolution- Notary public- Marriages and divorces- Insurances- Mortgages

Krabi Magazine 53

Great Ideas

In more than half the countries in the world, some of them the poorest, thirstiest, and most crowded, the

air is humid enough to yield huge amounts of precious water. The atmosphere contains 4 to 25 grams of water vapor per cubic meter. Water’s value as the source of life is widely appreciated. The need for water, its preservation, and finding new sustainable sources is something that affects everyone. One forward thinking company, Element Four, has created a remarkable gadget called the ‘WaterMill’, which generates clean water from the air. Most nations within 30 degrees latitude of the equator actually have more vapors than they need, being an average of 15 to 20 grams of water per cubic meter of air. As water vapor is constantly being replenished by the Earth’s natural cycle, extracting water from the air can be continued indefinitely without impacting local ecosystems.

By harnessing this moisture, this innovative water collection system can be used almost anywhere. Areas of frequent high humidity, such as those found in Southern Thailand, certainly improve its capacity and functionality. This system basically operates by condensing the humidity in the outside air into water, and then drawing this moisture inside the house where it’s filtered. The result is water that’s suitable and safe for drinking and cooking with. The generated water can be accessed from a sink-mounted tap, a dispenser, a water cooler, or from a refrigerator. This unit is simply attached to the side of your house and it will deliver up to 12 litres of water a day depending on the weather conditions.

The watermill has an in-built gauge for measuring temperature and humidity. It will also tell you when the water is ready. It looks a bit like a fire alarm, and an Am/Fm radio combined, and has the same half sphere shape similar to most curved mirrors. Such a product would appear to be perfect for use with a villa in tropical humid conditions. The ‘WaterMill’ is designed to minimize energy use. Manufacturers declare that this unit can produce a constant supply of fresh drinking water (given climatic conditions) at approximately one quarter the cost of any alternative bottled water delivery system that is currently on the market today. In the future, and with the addition of possibly ‘solar power’ this concept has huge potential to be something that can be used on a larger scale to produce enough water to completely run a family home.

Contact www.elementfour.com to obtain more details.

Humidity Harnessing

Krabi Magazine54

Property law can seem fairly restrictive as applied to foreigners, but it is really no different from other countries where special

treaties are not in place. Thai law stipulates that foreigners may not own land in their own names; one has the right of ownership of buildings only. There are, however, some ways in which foreigners can legally own or acquire property in the Kingdom of Thailand.

Leasehold - Freehold structure should be fully understood if what you want is to buy a house, a villa or even a hotel. The fact that you can’t acquire freehold land should not be a deterrent. You may own the building freehold (on your name) and together with a well constructed leasehold (typically a 30 year lease with two prepaid 30 year renewals) and a purchase option for the land (that could be exercised in the event the laws of foreign ownership changed - or you sold the property on to a Thai person or legal entity) you will have effective ownership, yet still remain within the laws of Thailand.

The structure of such a lease/purchase is complex and needs to be reviewed carefully with respect the properties current ownership and your own personal needs - it is recommended that you always seek the advice of an independent lawyer or property consultant, who speaks your language before making any financial commitment regarding property.

Leasehold-Freehold structure

Frequently Asked Questions

Company Limited: Foreigners can form a Limited Company and register the land as owned by the company. The foreigner can personally own maximum 49% of the company shares, and the remaining 51% must be in the names of Thai nationals. The foreigner is named sole executive director in the company’s Articles of Association, and this effectively puts 100% control of the company and its assets in the hands of the foreign director.

New law enforcement went into effect on May 2006 and has restricted the use of companies for property purchases. If a foreigner holds shares or is a director of a Thai company limited, the officers (at the land department) shall investigate the income, current profession and monthly salary of Thais holding shares. The provision of necessary evidence is required. Setting up such a company takes about half an hour and your signature about 30 times. Cost is 45,000 baht for the establishment of a company with the minimum requirements for ownership of land. Such companies need not do more than one property, and the required yearly audit costs are about 36,000 baht.

Thai spouse: Recent amendments that allow a Thai spouse (male or female) of a foreigner to buy land require proof that the money in the purchase of freehold land is legally solely theirs with no foreign claim to it. Divorce or separate from your Thai spouse and the land will stay with them in its entirety.

Krabi Magazine56

How to Avoid the Tax Pitfall? When investing in Thai property, several taxes apply with respect to the transfer of the property itself, including the specific business tax (SBT), a transfer fee and a withholding tax. In this article, we will address a common pitfall for foreign investors regarding transfers of immovable properties below the assessed value. When acquiring the property, there may be a temptation for the parties to declare a value that is not in accordance with the actual transaction price. In this article we not only point out the legal problems associated with this, but also the practical issue of having to pay more tax in a later stage of the investment. How should you best avoid this pitfall, and make sure you are in compliance with Thai tax laws?

General Tax RulesUpon a transfer of immovable property, several taxes apply on such transfer, including SBT, transfer fee and withholding tax.The SBT is payable at the time of transfer at the Land Department. The effective rate is 3.3% of the sales price (includes a local tax of 0.3%). An exception is applicable to an individual who sells immovable property for non-commercial purposes and has owned such property for more than five years. In such case, the SBT is not applicable; instead, a stamp duty tax of 0.5% applies. Note that the seller is liable for SBT.A transfer fee is also applicable on the transfer of immovable property at the rate of 2%. The transfer fee is based on the assessed value of the property rather than the sales price. The Land Department periodically publishes the assessed value for the application of the transfer fee. Thus, even if a seller sells the immovable property for US$1, the seller must use the assessed value to determine the transfer fee. Note that in many cases, the assessed value may be lower than the sales prices. The seller and buyer may split the liability for the transfer fee.With respect to the SBT and transfer fee, in an attempt to stimulate the weakened economy, a moratorium was issued to reduce the SBT to 0.11% and the transfer fee to 0.01% for the period between 28 March 2008 and 28 March 2010. Note that Government recently announced that it would extend the reduced transfer fee of 0.01% for an additional two months (until 31 May 2010). It does not appear that the reduced SBT rate will be extended beyond 28 March.Another applicable tax on the transfer of immovable property is the withholding tax (at the rate of 1%). The withholding tax (WHT) is payable to the Land Department at the time transfer takes place. If the seller is a corporation, the 1% withholding tax will be based on the sales price. If the seller is an individual, the 1% withholding tax will be based on the assessed value. The payer (or the buyer) has the obligation to withhold the tax.

Common pitfallA common pitfall which occurs in a property transaction in Thailand (particularly between an individual seller and a corporate purchaser) is when the price of the property is undervalued in order to save taxes. As a result of this “undervalue”, the purchaser will end up paying more taxes at a later date. “Undervalue” means instead of paying taxes on the agreed and actually paid price, a lower amount is declared on the day of transfer at the Land Department in order to save taxes.For example, in 2010, an individual seller and corporate purchaser agreed on the price of land in the amount of 10,000,000 THB. The corporate purchaser paid the individual seller 10,000,000 THB for such land. On the day that the purchaser declares the transfer at the Land Department, it undervalued the land by 1,000,000 THB and declared the land price at 9,000,000 THB in order to save on taxes.

Text by : DFDL Mekong Legal and Tax Group

Buying Thai Property with a Company

Know the Law

What are the tax implications? There is no tax savings on the undervalue with respect to the Transfer Fee because the Transfer Fee is always based on the “assessed value”. In addition, there is no tax savings on the undervalue with respect to the WHT because the “assessed value” is always used for an individual seller. Thus, only the SBT would be saved because it is based on the sales price. Since the undervalue is 1,000,000 THB, the tax saved with respect to the SBT is 33,000 THB (i.e., 1,000,000 * 3.3%).

Subsequently in 2011, the corporation sells the land for 12,000,000 THB. Its actual profit is 2,000,000 THB (i.e., 12,000,000 less 10,000,000). However, since the land price was declared at 9,000,000 THB with the Land Department, the Revenue Department will tax the corporation at 3,000,000 THB (i.e., 12,000,000 less 9,000,000). Thus, the 1,000,000 THB undervalue actually becomes taxable now for the corporation at the normal corporate income tax rate of 30% (or 300,000 THB).

In other words, the corporation saved 33,000 THB in 2010, but ended up paying more in 2011 (300,000 THB). If the price had not been undervalued initially, this problem would not have arisen at a later sale date.

Thus, what should investors do in this case? Undervaluing property can lead to serious tax difficulties assessments at a later stage and you can often avoid these problems without triggering extra taxes when your company purchases the property. You should carefully consider the price of the transaction, and examine the tax consequences of how the seller suggests structuring the deal.

This Article was kindly provided by DFDL Mekong Legal and Tax Group, with offices in Bangkok, Phuket and Samui. Contact them on Phuket@dfdlmekong.com, +66 76 279 921

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Krabi Magazine58

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Krabi Magazine 59

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Property sellers in Thailand will list their properties with as many agents as possible, and because most agents will have many of the same

properties, it doesn’t make sense to run from one agent to another hoping to get a better deal. Choose one agent and let them know you will work only with them, so they will work hard to help you find the property you are looking for. They will also try to get you the best possible deal. But this is not going to happen if the agent finds out you are dealing with other agents as well. Agents appreciate clients who are loyal to them, and when you are loyal, this will pay off for you. If your first agent is unsuccessful, thank them for their efforts. Agents don’t expect you to pay them anything for all the hard work they do, but a little consideration for their feelings and plain old good manners will generate a lot of good will.

If you have already seen a property with one agent and another agent offers to show you the same one, tell the agent you are with about your previous visit. You will only waste time, otherwise: there is no point in viewing the same property again. And if you do decide to do so anyway, go back to the first agent, as that agent has already done the groundwork and should be rewarded with the commission if you do decide to buy or rent. Agents have to live and work in the same town, and if problems are created between them by ignoring this advice, no one will benefit and you may even lose the opportunity to buy or rent a property as a result.

Real Estate Agents

Buyer’s Guide

This is how your agent in Thailand works1. Under Thai law, your agent is only responsible for introducing you to a seller, and from that point on the seller must pay the agent a commission if you buy the property. However, you should choose your agent carefully. Find one that will go much further than what is required by law. A good agent should be responsible for guiding you through every step of a property search, helping you get all the paperwork done legally, and looking after you even after you have concluded a purchase with any questions or help to find additional services you might need. Agents will take you to view properties, get the answers to any questions you have, deal with sellers to ensure you get the best possible deal, and suggest lawyers for you and the seller.

2. In general, your agent will not tell you where a property is located until he/she has taken you to introduce you to the owner or building manager. The agent will take you to see the seller and introduce you so that the seller knows you have retained the agent to represent you.

3. Let your agent handle all negotiations with the owner or building manager. If you have any questions, ask your agent. Don’t ever call the owner or building manager directly without letting your agent know what you want to call about first. Often, your agent will already know the answer, or know where to get it for you.

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Krabi Magazine62

Thailand is home to a large variety of delicious fruits, both seasonal, such as durian, rambutan, mangosteen, longan and lychee and

all-year-round, such as papaya, guava, coconut, orange, banana, pineapple and rose apple, all of which are as nutritious as they are

delicious. The huge variety of local produce, combined with the culinary art of the Thai people, has resulted in a wealth of ways that

Thai fruits can be enjoyed all-year-round.

DurianMay marks the start of the short season

for the King of fruits: should you try it?

It is said the essence of Thailand is expressed in its fruits: exotic, sweet and almost infinite in variety. Highly rated by Southeast Asians, Durian, the king of fruits, a spiky, prickly skinned, football sized thing that resembles and armadillo crossed with a pineapple, is back on

the market tables as its season in Thailand runs across April, May and June.It is a culmination of a process that begins in January, with reddish flowers that start to fill branches of the plant. The fruits start to ripen after three months. It is a shame its popularity is somehow reduced due to its distinctive smell; described as “tasting like heaven, smelling like hell”, it is the cultural equivalent of British Marmite - you will either love it or hate it, no two ways about it.

On a walk to a local market, you will not miss it as its fierce aroma/stink will haunt you until you have to try at least a slice in a local stall, making sure not to get any over yourself in the process. Some foreigners avoid it like the plague due to the rather bad descriptions of people who have tried it, but millions of Thais can’t be that wrong. Local connoisseurs hold this fruit in very high regard, and they claim the smell and taste of it are simply indescribable, but delicious. I agree wholeheartedly.

The Durian’s outside skin is covered in sharp bumps; this shell is so thick it can be used as a weapon. Each fruit weighs 2–4 kilos, and its flesh is slightly crusty on the outside while the remaining inside texture is viscous. Inside the prickly, yellowish green outer casing is a generous bed of white pith, embedded in which are several lumps of pale yellow flesh (what you eat). They have a teeth-chattering sweet taste conventional by Thai standards, and each contains a single dark brown stone.

Many Thais tell you that beer can be fatal if drunk within a few hours of eating Durian. This is apparently on account of some fermentation process that causes your bowels to explode… I have tried to do it, in moderation, and nothing happened to me. However, not everyone has the same metabolism and even if this seems to be a myth, try not to go against this rule, just in case. In some parts of Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore, Durian is banned from many hotel premises with “No Durian” signs posted in the foyer and lift areas, although I have never come across any in Krabi. Whatever the consensus, one must admit there is nothing quite like the king of fruits.

Fruits of Thailand