THE (R)EVOLUTION OF COLOR

In face of growing popularity of environmental protection around the world , textile dye manufacturers are quickly responding to develop new dye products for the textile and apparel supply chain.

REASON FOR INTRODUCTION

At the beginning of the 1990s, “POISON IN TEXTILES” and other negative headlines were widespread at this time and indiscriminately branded all chemical across the board used in textile manufacturing as negative and dangerous to environment and human health.

In 1994, Germany approved the revised “Act on Food and Consumer Goods” leading to the Research and Development of Environment friendly dyes in textile and apparel business community to substitute the banned dyes.

Dyes should be non-carcinogenic, non-allergic and non-toxic. Extractable heavy metals, if available, should be kept in the level of acceptable minimum. They should be environment friendly, containing as little pollutants, especially polluting chemical substances.

The Demand we make of modern textile products cannot be realized without the use of specific chemical substances, however, fashionable colors, easy care properties, a long life span and many other functional properties are now demanded of textiles, and are essential in some cases depending on the intended use.

Oeko-Tex®

Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 introduced a reliable product label for consumers to asses the human ecological quality of textiles and a uniform safety standard for companies within the textiles and clothing industry which enabled a practical assessment of potential harmful substances in textile products.

For many consumers in target markets such as Europe, evidence that textile products are harmless to health is becoming an increasingly important factor when making a purchase decision.

Unless there is a visible label on the textile, the consumer is not in the position to assess the human ecological quality of the textiles.

Textile Supply ChainRaw Materials

PRESSURE GROUPS

Textile Finisher

LEGISLATION

Brand /Retailer

ECOLABELS

Consumers

Convertor

Dyes and Chemicals

Restricted Substance List

From the Introduction in 1994 of the German Consumer Goods Ordinance and Oeko-Tex® passed a RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE LIST(RSL), which focuses on the following aspects.

Azo dyes that can break down to release carcinogenic amines (22 amines listed in EU Directive 2002/61/EC; 24 listed by Oeko-Tex® Standard 100)

Allergenic Disperse Dyes (21 disperse dyes listed by Oeko-Tex® Standard 100)

Certain Product Classes listed under Limit Values by Oeko-Tex® Standard 100

List of 24 Banned Carcinogenic Aryl amines

4-Aminobiphenyl Benzidine

4-Chloro-o-toluidine 2-Napthylamine

o-Aminoazotoulene 2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene

p-Chloroaniline 2,4-Diaminoanisole

4,4’-Diaminobiphenylmethan 3,3’-Dichlorobenzidine

3,3’-Dimethoxybenzidine 3,3’-Dimethylbenzidine

3,3’-Dimethyl-4,4’-diaminobiphenylmethane

p-Cresidine

4,4’-Methylene-bis- (2-chloroaniline)

4,4’-Oxydianiline

4,4’-Thiodianiline o-Toluidine

2,4-Toluylendiamine 2,4,5-Trimethylaniline

o-Anisidine 2,4-Xylidine

2,6-Xylidine 4-Aminoazobenzene

List of 21 Banned Allergenic Disperse Dyes

C.I. Disperse Blue 1 C.I. Disperse Blue 3

C.I. Disperse Blue 7 C.I. Disperse Blue 26

C.I. Disperse Blue 35 C.I. Disperse Blue 102

C.I. Disperse Blue 106 C.I. Disperse Blue 124

C.I. Disperse Brown 1 C.I. Disperse Orange 1

C.I. Disperse Orange 3 C.I. Disperse Orange 37

C.I. Disperse Orange 76 C.I. Disperse Red 1

C.I. Disperse Red 11 C.I. Disperse Red 17

C.I. Disperse Yellow 1 C.I. Disperse Yellow 3

C.I. Disperse Yellow 9 C.I. Disperse Yellow 39

C.I. Disperse Yellow 49

RSL Comply at Textile Dye Manufacturer

Safer Alternatives for Banned Acid Dyes

Banned Acid Dye

C.I. Number Alternative C.I. Number

Acid Orange 45 22195 Acid Orange 1914690

Acid Red 4 14710 Acid Red 157 17990

Acid Red 5 14905 Acid Red 191 14730

Acid Red 26 16150 Acid Red 24785

Acid Red 115 27200 Acid Red 37 17045

Acid Violet 49 42640 Acid Violet 72 42665

Acid Violet 12 18075 Acid Violet 13 16640

Acid Black 94 30336 Acid Black 24 26370

Safer Alternatives for Banned Direct Dyes

Banned Direct Dye

C.I. Number Alternative C.I. Number

Direct Yellow 48 23660 Direct Yellow 15

Direct Orange 8 22130 Direct Orange 102 29156

Direct Red 2 23900 Direct Red 81 28160

Direct Red 10 22145 Direct Red 120 25275

Direct Red 24 29185 Direct Red 23 9160

Direct Red 46 23050 Direct Red 31 29100

Direct Red 62 29175 Direct Red 4 29165

Direct Violet 1 22570 Direct Violet 66 29120

Direct Brown 2 22311 Direct Brown 112 29166

Direct Black 29 22580 Direct Black 51 27720

Safer Alternatives for Banned Disperse Dyes

Banned Disperse Dye

C.I. Number Alternative C.I. Number

Disperse Yellow 7 23660 Disperse Yellow 15

Disperse Yellow 23 22130 Disperse Orange 102 29156

Disperse Blue 12 3900 Disperse Red 81 28160

Disperse Orange 50 22145 Disperse Red 120 25275

Disperse Yellow 24 29185 Disperse Yellow 23 29160

Disperse Yellow 46 23050 Disperse Yellow 31 29100

Disperse Yellow 62 29175 Disperse Yellow 4 29165

Disperse Yellow 1 22570 Disperse Violet 66 29120

Disperse Yellow 2 22311 Disperse Yellow 112 29166

Disperse Yellow 29 22580 Disperse Yellow 51 27720

INDUSTRIAL ASPECT CIBA Launched Cibacron LS range of reactive dyes, which require as low as one-

fourth of salt (Sodium Sulfate) in the dyeing process, resulting in a drastic reduction of industrial waste water load.

Cibacron C range of reactive dyes, has very high fixation rate, this benefit in turn bring environmental advantages, since it minimizes the effluent load.

CLARIENT Launched Sandolan MF range of acid dyes for dyeing of wool, free from metal, features high exhaustion rate and fastness properties.

DYSTAR Launched Telon K range of acid dyes for dyeing of nylon and acetate fibres.

COLOURTEX Launched Coralene range of disperse dyes, Colocid range of acid dyes as an alternatives for banned dyes repectively.

ENZYMES

HUNTSMAN INVAZYME® L-40 ----- Stabilized Bacteria Amylase INVAZYME® CEL ------ Garment Wet Processing INVAZYME® CAT-I ------ Stabilized Catalase Enzyme

ADVANCED ENZYMES Rapidenz Cool ------- Desizing Enzyme Addscour PCLP ------- Liquid Bioscouring enzyme for caustic free process Denibrade 10C ------- Cellulase for Bio-polishing effect Denicell ---------------- Aggressive liquid acid cellulase for fading effects on denims Enzystone N160 ------ Neutral cellulase for bio-washing of denims Addox 5L ---------------Concentrated Catalase enzyme based Peroxide killer

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