000 Map pages000 Photo pages

430

1905 Revolution 95, 335

AAbalak 164accommodation 378-9, see also

individual locationscosts 380

Achinsk 148acrobatics 316activities 20-1, 379-80, see also

individual activitiesin border regions 380

Aginskoe 227air travel

agencies 399internet resources 399to/from the region 394, 395within the region 398

Albazin 221Alexander III 328, 329Amazar 221Amur Hwy 221Amursky Gulf 222Amur-Yakutsk Mainline 26, 221,

253-4, 263, 341Angara Dam 191Angarsk 179animals 374-5

Gobi Desert 289nerpa 199, 214, 374-5omul 179, 355, 374Przewalski’s horse 285-6Siberian tigers 243-4, 297, 374

animism 352-3architecture 17

Běijīng 309China 370religious 350St Petersburg 107

Arkhara 222Arshan 205-6

arts, see also individual artsChina 368-70Mongolia 361-2Russia 353

Artyom 249ATMs 385-6AYaM, see Amur-Yakutsk Mainline

BBabushkin 180Bada 217Bādálǐng 323Baikal-Amur Mainline (BAM) 24-5, 55,

250-64, 251, 252climate 250highlights 251, 251history 340-341itineraries 31, 253, 31museums 255, 260planning information 250route description 252-4travel seasons 250

Baikalsk 179Baikalskoe 259ballet

Moscow 85, 10Perm 138, 141St Petersburg 113

BAM, see Baikal-Amur MainlineBamovskaya 221banya 352

Moscow 72museums 214

Barabinsk 147Barguzin Valley 13, 214-15, 13bathrooms 47, 390-1Baturino 214Běijīng 8, 16, 55, 269, 294, 301-324,

303, 306-7, 312, 318-19, 8accommodation 301, 311, 313climate 301, 302drinking 315entertainment 315-16food 301, 313-15highlights 303, 303history 304holidays 302information 317-19internet resources 302media 302medical services 317-18planning information 301-2shopping 316-17sights 304-311tours 317travel seasons 301, 302travel to/from 27, 319-20travel within 320-1

Bell, John 344Belogorsk 222bicycle travel, see cyclingBikin 222Bira 222birdwatching 215, 243-4, 373, 375Birobidzhan 222, 229-31Blagoveshchensk 222, 228-9boat travel 19

to/from Russia 396within Russia 401

Bobrovy Log ski resort 181Bogdkhan Uul 267, 270, 285bogies 272Bogolyubovo 121, 125-6Bogotol 148Boketu 291Bolshevik Revolution 95, 335-6Bolshie Koty 202books

China 339, 365food 354graphic novels 148health 404history 326, 328, 329, 335, 338,

349Mongolia 356, 374peoples 329, 349, 352, 354politics 328Russia 347, 348, 353travel 52, 335, 340, 342-5, 365

border crossings 25, 52, 394-5Mongolia–China 287Russia–China 298Russia–Mongolia 270-1, 272

border zonesactivities in 380

Borzya 291Bratsk 252, 254-5Bratsk Dam 252, 254Buddhism

China 367-8Mongolia 360Russia 213, 352

Buddhist temples & monasteriesAmarbayasgalant Khiid 267Arshan 205Gandan Khiid 272Huáyán Temple 288Ivolginsky (Ivolga) Datsan 213Khamaryn Khiid 268Lama Temple 308Mandshir Khiid 284-5Rinpoche Bagsha Datsan 207

budget 14, see also costsbus travel 401bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 380Byankino Valley 221

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

INDEX C

-F431

Ccalligraphy 369Cape Khoboy 203car travel 401-2castles & palaces, see also

Hermitage, theCatherine Palace 106Imperial Palace of the Manchu

State 300Marble Palace 103Menshikov Palace 104Mikhailovsky Castle 103Peterhof 106Rukavishnikov Mansion 134Sheremetyev Palace 103Stroganov Palace 103Summer Palace 310Tsarskoe Selo 106Yusupov Palace 103

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

cell phones 388-9ceramics 369Chángchūn 294, 300Chekhov, Anton 171, 172, 342-3Cheptsa 122Chernyshevsk-Zabaikalsky 221children, travel with 380-1

health 406Moscow 74

Chinaarts 368-70culture 366-71economy 364-5food 370, 371history 367, 369, 371language 407-11people 364-5, 366-7, 368politics 365religion 365, 367-8

Chinggis (Genghis) Khaan 272, 286, 360

Chita 217, 223-7, 291, 224Choir 267Christian monasteries & convents

Abalak Monastery 164Annunciation Monastery 133Intercession Convent 129Monastery of the Holy Martyrs 155Novodevichy Convent 70Pechorsky Monastery 133Saviour Monastery of St Euthymius

126-8Trinity Monastery 157Znamensky Monastery 189-90

churches & cathedrals, see also Christian monasteries & convents

Annunciation Cathedral 67Archangel Cathedral 66

Assumption Cathedral (Moscow) 63

Assumption Cathedral (Vladimir) 123-4

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour 71Cathedral of St Dmitry 124Church of John the Baptist at

Tolchkovo 127Church of St Sophia 296Church of the Intercession on the

Nerl 126Church on Spilled Blood 102Church upon the Blood 149Kazansky Church 191Smolensk Cathedral 70SS Peter & Paul Cathedral 105St Basil’s Cathedral 68St Isaac’s Cathedral 103

cinema, see films Circumbaikal Railway 203, 332circuses 85-6classical music

Moscow 83, 85Russia 353St Petersburg 113

climate 14, 20-1, see also individual regions

Běijīng 301, 302Irkutsk 176Moscow 58St Petersburg 93Ulaanbaatar 265

consulates, see embassies & consulates

convents, see Christian monasteries & convents

corruption 346-8costs 14, 22-7

accommodation 380food 384tickets 40visas 42-3

credit cards 386culture

China 366-71Mongolia 357, 358-63Russia 346, 349-55

currencies 385customs regulations 381cycling

Běijīng 8, 321, 8Mongolia Bike Challenge 21

Cyrillic alphabetMongolian 411Russian 415

Ddangers, see safetyDàqìng 294

Darasun 217Darkhan 267Dàtóng 268-9, 286-9, 288Davaa, Byambasuren 362Decembrists 95, 217, 223-4, 337disabilities, travellers with 391Divnogorsk 186-7dog sledding 199drinks 18

Mongolia 362-3Russia 355water 405

driving, see car travelDugda 254Dusse-Alin Tunnel 254Dzelinda 253, 260

Eeconomy

China 364-5Mongolia 356-7Russia 346-8

electricity 47, 382email services 384-5embassies & consulates

China 383Mongolia 383Russia 382-3

emergencies 15encephalitis 405environmental issues 372-5Erenhot 268, 286, 287Èrlián 268, 286, 287Eröö River 267etiquette

banya 352China 364Mongolia 356

events, see festivals & eventsexchange rates 15explorers 342-5

Ffax services 388ferries, see boat travelfestivals & events 20-1

Chinese New Year 20Christmas 20December Nights Festival 21, 74-5Dragon Boat Festival 21Easter 20Gobi Marathon 21Golden Mask Festival 72Golden Nadaam 21Ice & Snow Festival 20, 298-9Kamwa Festival 21, 138Lunar New Year 20

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX F-K

432festivals & events continued

Mid-Autumn Festival 21Mongolia Bike Challenge 21Moon Festival 21Moscow Biennale of Contemporary

Art 74Moscow International Film Festival

21, 72Naadam 11, 21, 277, 280New Year 21Perm White Nights 21, 138Roaring Hooves Festival 21Tsagaan Sar 277White Nights Festival 20, 105Winter Festival 72

Fevralsk 254films

China 339, 365documentaries 346Mongolia 357, 358, 361-2Russia 347, 350

fish 374fishing 379-80food 18, 383-4

China 370, 371dining cars 50-1, 7Mongolian 362-3on the train 50-1, 7Russia 354-5vegetarian 355

Forbidden City 304Frazier, Ian 345Frolikha Adventure Coastline Trail 258

Ggalleries, see museums & galleries

in China, museums & galleries in Mongolia, museums & galleries in Russia

gay travellers 384Genghis Khan, see Chinggis

(Genghis) Khaangeography 372-6ger camps 285, 286, 291Gobi Desert 267, 289, 372

Gobi Marathon 21Golden Eagle 36, 41, 341, 341golomyanka 374Gorkhi-Terelj National Park 285Gorky Park 72Gorokhovets 121Goryachinsk 214Goudzhekit 252, 260Great Baikal Trail 200, 201, 202, 258

Great Wall of China 10, 321-4, 11Great Wall Marathon 20

Gremyachinsk 214group travel 36, 396-8Gulag camps 260, 337, 338

books 338Perm-36 142

HHā’ěrbīn 295-300, 296Hǎilāěr 291health 403-6

books 404insurance 403internet resources 404services 404-5vaccinations 404

Héběi province 269Hēilóngjiāng 291hepatitis A 405Hermitage, the 10, 95, 98-9, 102,

10, 98-9hiking 19, 285

Great Baikal Trail 200, 201, 202, 258

history 326-41China 367, 369, 371Mongolia 359, 361, 363Russia 351, 353, 355

hitching 402holidays 387Holman, James 343Hui Doloon Khutag 267, 280hútòng 317

IIce & Snow Festival 20, 298-9Ilansky 178indigenous peoples, see peopleInner Mongolia 268, 291insurance

car 401health 403travel 384

internet access 384-5internet resources 15

air travel 399bookings & tickets 32-3, 36, 39-40 China 365documentaries 346health 404history 336train travel 26, 46, 331, 334visas 43-5

Irkutsk 179, 187-97, 188-9, 13accommodation 192-3climate 176drinking 194-5

entertainment 195food 193-4history 188-9information 195shopping 195sights 189-92tours 192travel seasons 176travel to/from 195-6travel within 196-7

Irkutsk Sortirovka 179Ishim 146Islam

China 368Mongolia 361Russia 351-2

itineraries 28-31, 28, 29, 30, 31, see also individual routes

Běijīng 305Moscow 63stopovers 24Ulaanbaatar 273

Ivolginsky (Ivolga) Datsan 213

JJíníng 268Jīnshānlīng 324Jinzanghan Grassland 291

KKansk-Yeniseysky 178Karymskaya 217, 291Kazan 140Kenada 254Kennan, George 343, 345Khabarovsk 222, 231-8, 232-3Khabarovsk Bridge 222Khakusy 258, 260Khani 253Khilok 217Khilok Valley 217Khokhlovka 141Kholbon 221Kholodnaya 253khöömii 361Khrebtovaya 252Khustain National Park 285-6Khuzhir 203-4kilometre posts 123Kirov 122Kitay Gorod 69

walking tours 73, 73Komsomolsk-na-Amure 254, 261-4,

262Korshunikha-Angarskaya 252Kotelnich 122Kovrov 121

INDEX K

-M433

Krasnoyarsk 148, 180-2, 182-3Krasnoyarsk to Ulan-Ude 54, 176-215,

177, 178climate 176highlights 177, 177itineraries 179planning information 176route description 177-80travel seasons 176

Krasnoyarsky Territory 147-48Kremlin, Moscow 6, 16, 62-8, 66,

6-7, 64-5walking tours 73, 73

kremlinsKazan 140Moscow 6, 16, 62-8, 66, 6-7, 64-5Nizhny Novgorod 133Rostov-Veliky 127Suzdal 126Tobolsk 161

Kuanda 253Kuenga 221Kultuk 179Kunerma 252Kungur 123, 142-3Kungur Ice Cave 142Kyakhta 269-70Kyzyl 178

LLake Baikal 8, 16, 54, 179-80, 197-215,

198-9, 8, 12climate 176geology 373highlights 177itineraries 31, 31travel seasons 176wildlife 374-5,

landscapes 9, 17, 372-6, 2, 9languages 14, 407-20

Cyrillic alphabet 411, 415Mandarin 407-11Mongolian 357, 411-14Pinyin 407-11Russian 414-18

Larba 253Lednyanaya 221Ledyard, John 343-4legal matters 385Lena 252Lenin, Vladimir 68, 95, 335-6lesbian travellers 384Listvyanka 197literature, see bookslocal transport 402luggage 48, 50

left luggage 399

MMagdagachi 221Maksimikha 214Man in Seat 61 49Mandarin 407-11Mănzhōulǐ 291, 294-5Mao Zedong 304, 305, 339, 369maps 385Mariinsk 147markets

Moscow 87, 88St Petersburg 114

Maslov, Nikolai 148measures 381medical services 404-5, see also

individual locationsMedvedev, Dmitry 346-8Mianduhe 291mobile phones 388-9Mogocha 221monasteries, see

Buddhist temples & monasteries, Christian monasteries & convents

money 14, 15, 382, 385-6, see also costs

exchange rates 15Mongolia

arts 361-2 culture 357, 358, 11development 356-7drinks 362-3economy 356-7food 362-3history 359, 361, 363language 411-14people 356-7, 358-9politics 356-7religion 357, 359-61

Moscow 6, 10, 16, 53, 58-92, 60-1, 66, 73, 78-9, 84-5, 6-7, 64-5

accommodation 58, 75-7, 80-1activities 72children, for 74climate 58drinking 83entertainment 74, 83, 85-7festivals & events 72, 74-5food 58, 81-3highlights 60-1, 60-1history 62information 87-9internet access 87internet resources 59medical services 88planning information 58-9safety 87shopping 87sights 62-72

telephone numbers 88tours 59, 72travel seasons 58travel to/from 27, 89-2travel within 59, 92walking tours 73, 73

Moscow to Yekaterinburg 54, 119-43, 120, 122

climate 119highlights 120, 120itineraries 121planning information 119route description 121-3travel seasons 119

mosquitoes 406motorcycle travel 401-2movies, see filmsmulticulturalism 18, 347, 349-51, 366Muravyov, Nikolai 327-8Murphy, Dervla 340museums & galleries in China

798 Art District 310Běijīng Police Museum 305China National Museum 308China Train Museum 310Germ Warfare Base – 731 Division

297-8Lǎo She Museum 308Poly Art Museum 309

museums & galleries in MongoliaChoijin Lama Temple Museum

272-3Museum of Natural History 273National Museum of Mongolian

History 273Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts

273museums & galleries in Russia

All-Russia Exhibition Centre 69Angara Village 254Anna Akhmatova Museum at the

Fountain House 103Antique Automobile Museum 242Architecture-Ethnography Museum

141Arsenev Regional Museum 239Art Muzeon Sculpture Park 71-2Baikal Museum 199BAM Museum (Severobaikalsk) 255BAM Museum (Tynda) 260Decembrist Museum 223-5Erarta Museum of Contemporary

Art 104Ethnographic Museum 207Gallery of European & American

Art of the 19th & 20th Centuries 70

Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture 70

Gulag History Museum 69

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX M

-R

434museums & galleries in Russia

continuedHermitage, the 10, 95, 98-9, 102,

10, 98-9Hermitage Centre 140Khangalov Museum of Buryat

History 206-7Kukushka.ru 89Kunstkamera 104Literary-Memorial House-Museum

Reshetnikov 149Loft Project ETAGI 104Memorial Museum of

Cosmonauts 69Military History Museum 149-50Moscow Museum of Modern Art 69Museum of Architecture &

Industrial Technology 149Museum of Central Armed

Forces 74Museum of City Life 191Museum of Contemporary Art

‘PERMM’ 137Museum of Music 103Museum of Railway Technology 104Museum of Railway Transport 103Museum of the Great Patriotic

War 71Museum of the Spiritual Cultures

of Western Siberia 161Museum of Volga People’s

Architecture & Culture 133-4Museum of Wooden Architecture &

Peasant Life 130Museum of Zoology 104National Centre of Contemporary

Art 134National Museum of the Republic

of Tatarstan 140New Tretyakov 71Nizhegorodsky State Art

Museum 134Oppression Museum, Tomsk 169Perm State Art Gallery 137Primorsky Picture Gallery 239Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts 70-1Pushkinskaya 10 104Red October 71Rizzordi Art Foundation 104Russian Museum 102-3Sakharov Museum 134Sergei Diaghilev Museum 138Seyatel – Railway Locomotive

Museum 169State Hermitage Museum 10, 95,

98-9, 102, 10, 98-9

State History Museum 68-9State Tretyakov Gallery 71Strelka Institute for Media,

Architecture & Design 71Sukachev Regional Art Museum,

Irkustk 191Surikov Museum-Estate 181Taltsy Museum of Architecture &

Ethnography 197Urals Mineralogical Museum 149Vladivostok Fortress Museum 239Volkonsky House-Museum 190Western European Art

Collection 134music

Mongolian 281, 361Russian 347

Mùtiányù 323

NNaadam 11, 21, 277, 280national parks & reserves

China 375Mongolia 9, 373, 285-6Russia 214, 373

nationalism 347Natsagdorj, Dashdorjiin 361-2Naushki 267Nazyvaevskaya 147Nerchinsk 221, 227-8nerpa 199, 214, 374-5Nevyansk 155-6newspapers 381Nicholas II 95, 148, 149, 334 Nizhneangarsk 253, 258Nizhneudinsk 179Nizhny Novgorod 16, 121, 131-7, 132Novosibirsk 147, 165-9, 166Novy Uoyan 253Novy Urgal 254

OObluche 222Ogoron 254Okeanskaya 222Olkhon Island 12, 197, 202-4, 12Olovyannaya 291Olyokma 253Omsk 147, 164-5omul 179, 355, 374Onon 220opening hours 380opera

Běijīng 316Moscow 85St Petersburg 113

Orthodox Church, see Russian Orthodox Church

Ppalaces, see castles & palaces people

China 364-5, 366-8Mongolia 356-7, 358-9Russia 346-8, 349-53

Pereslavl-Zalessky 89Perm 16, 123, 137-41, 138Perm-36 142Pervouralsk 157Peter & Paul Fortress 105Peter the Great 95Peterhof 106Petrovsky-Zavod 217Petushki 121phonecards 389-90photography 386Pinyin 407-11Pivan 264planning 14-15, see also individual

regionsbudgeting 14calendar of events 20-1clothing 47internet resources 15itineraries 28-31, 28, 29, 30, 31luggage 48Moscow 58-9repeat visitors 16routes 22-7train travel 46-52Trans-Siberian Railway basics 14Trans-Siberian Railway’s

regions 53-5travel seasons 14, 20-1visas 42-5what to pack 47, 48-50

plants 372politics

China 365Mongolia 356-7Russia 346-8

Polovina 179populations, see peoplePort Baikal 201-2Posolskaya 180postal services 386-7Postyshevo 254Priiskovaya 221provodnitsa 47Przewalski’s horse 285-6public holidays 387Putin, Vladimir 346-8

Rrabies 405racism 347, 388rafting 19

INDEX R

-T435

Rasputin, Grigory 103, 152Rasputin, Valentin 8, 353Red Square 6, 62-3, 66-9Reed, Dean 261religion 334, 373

China 365, 367-8Mongolia 357, 359-61Russia 347, 351-3

Reshoty 178rivers 372-3Romanov family

Ganina Yama 155Romanov Death Site 149

Rostov-Veliky 127Russia

arts 353culture 349-55drinks 355economy 346-8food 354history 351, 353, 355language 414-18people 349-51politics 346-8religion 351-3

Russian Civil War 336Russian Orthodox Church 351Russky Island 239-42Russo-Japanese War 334-5Ruzhino 222

Ssafety 387-8

drinking water 405hitching 402Moscow 87on the train 48St Petersburg 114Ulaanbaatar 271-2

Sainshand 267-8Sakha Republic 263Sakhalin Island 264Sanatornaya 222Sayany Mountains 178scams 388, see also safetysculpture 369Sedanka 222Selenga Delta 180, 215Selenga River 215Semenov 122senior travellers 382Sergiev Posad 75Severobaikalsk 252, 255-8, 256Severomuysky tunnel 253Seyatel 169shamanism 352-3, 359-60

Shānhǎiguān 294, 300Shěnyáng 294Shilka 220-1shopping 19Shukshin, Vasily 353Siberia 13, 146, 13

development 349, 336-8exiles 337explorers 342-5tradition 13

Siberian tigers 243-4, 374Siberian Tiger Park 297

Sikhote-Alin Nature Reserve 243-4Sīmǎtái 323skiing 181Skovorodino 221Slyudyanka 179, 204-5Smith, Mark 49Sovetskaya Gavan-Sortirovochny 254SovGavan 254Spassk-Dalny 222St Basil’s Cathedral 68St Petersburg 10, 16, 53, 93-118, 96-7,

100-1, 108-9, 98-9accommodation 93, 105-9, 111climate 93drinking 112-13entertainment 113-14festivals & events 105food 93, 111-12highlights 96-7, 96-7history 95information 114internet resources 94medical services 115planning information 93-4safety 114shopping 114sights 95, 98-99, 102-5tours 105travel seasons 93travel to/from 27, 115-17travel within 94, 117-18

Stalin, Josef 62, 77, 261, 336-8State Hermitage Museum, see

Hermitage, thesteppe 372Stolby Nature Reserve 180stopovers 24street names, Russian 382Sükhbaatar 267Sükhbaatar Square 272Surikov, Vasily 353Suzdal 126, 128-31, 128Sverdlovsk, see YekaterinburgSvobodny 222Svyatoy Nos Peninsula 214

Ttaiga 372Taiga 147Taksimo 253Taltsy 197Tankhoi 180Tarskaya 217Tatarstan Republic 140Tayshet 178, 252telephone numbers, Moscow 88telephone services 15

China 389Mongolia 389-90Russia 388

temples, see also Buddhist temples & monasteries

Confucian 309Taoist 311

Terelj 285theatre

Mongolia 361-2Moscow 74, 85Ulaanbaatar 279

theft 387-8, see also safetythermal springs 260throat singing 361Tiananmen Square 304-8Tiānjīn 294tickets

booking 32-41how to read 34-5prices 32-41purchasing 32-41

tigers 243-4, 374Siberian Tiger Park 297

time 15, 48, 390timetables 37-9

how to read 400tipping 386Tobolsk 12, 146, 160-3, 162, 3, 12toilets 47, 390-1Toki 254Tomsk 16, 147, 169-75, 170tourist information 391tours 36, 396-8, see also travel

agencies, individual locationstrain classes 40-1, 51-2, see also

train typesChina 399Mongolia 401

train stations 9, 9, see also individual locations

Běijīng 319Moscow 89-90St Petersburg 104, 115-16stopovers 50Ulaanbaatar 282

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX T-Y

436train travel 6, 9, 46-52, 398-400

bogie changes 272food 50-1, 7, 9kilometre posts 123stopovers 50to/from Běijīng 319-20to/from Moscow 89to/from St Petersburg 115-16

train types 22-3, 32China 302Golden Eagle 36, 41, 341, 341

Trans-Manchurian Route 23, 55, 290-300, 291, 292-3

climate 290highlights 292-3, 292-3history 338-9itineraries 294planning information 290route description 291, 294travel seasons 290

Trans-Mongolian Route 23, 55, 265-89, 266, 268

climate 265highlights 266, 266history 339-40itineraries 28, 269, 28planning information 265route description 267-269travel seasons 265

Trans-Siberian Route 22-3itineraries 29, 29Krasnoyarsk to Ulan-Ude 54,

176-215, 177, 178Moscow to Yekaterinburg 54,

119-43, 120, 122Ulan-Ude to Vladivostok 54,

216-49, 218-19, 220Yekaterinburg to Krasnoyarsk 54,

144-75, 145, 146travel agencies 33, 36, 39, 43,

396-8travellers cheques 386trekking, see hikingTretyakov Gallery 71 Tsarskoe Selo 106Tsugol 227Túlĭshēn 344Tulun 179Tungala 254Tunka Valley 204-6Turka 214Tynda 253-4typhoid 405Tyumen 146, 156-60, 158

UUkovsky waterfalls 179Ulaanbaatar 11, 16, 267, 270-84,

274-5accommodation 265climate 265drinking 279entertainment 279-81festivals & events 277, 280food 265, 278-9history 271information 281-2medical services 282safety 271-2shopping 281sights 272-3sleeping 277-8tours 276-7travel seasons 265travel to/from 213, 282-3, 395travel within 284

Ulan-Ude 206-13, 208Ulan-Ude to Vladivostok 54, 216-49,

218-19, 220climate 216highlights 218-19, 218-19itineraries 217planning information 216route description 217, 220-3travel seasons 216

Ulkan 252Ural Mountains 122, 157Usole-Sibirskoe 179Ussuriysk 222Ust-Barguzin 214Ust-Ilimsk 252Uyar 177-8

Vvacations 387vaccinations 404Vanino 254vegetarian travellers 355Verkhnezeysk 254Verkhnyaya Ekon 264Vershina 123visas 15, 42-5, 391-2

agencies 43extensions 44-5, 391-2for China 44, 236, 392for Mongolia 44, 392for Russia 44-5, 391registration 44-5, 391-2

visual artsChina 369Mongolia 362Russia 353

Vladimir 121, 123-5Vladivostok 12, 16, 223, 238-49,

240-1, 9, 12accommodation 244-5climate 216drinking 246-7food 245-6information 248shopping 247-9sights 239-43tours 243-4travel seasons 216travel to/from 248-9travel within 248

Volga River 121, 135itineraries 31, 31

Volga-Urals trip 135Volochaevka 222von Ungern-Sternberg, Roman

Nikolaus Fyodirovich 358Vostochny Cosmodrome 221Vyatka 122Vyazemskaya 222Vydrino 180

Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours 73, 73water 405weather 14, 20-1, see also individual

regionsBěijīng 301, 302Irkutsk 176Moscow 58St Petersburg 93Ulaanbaatar 265

websites, see internet resourcesweights 381White Nights Festival 20, 105wildlife, see animalsWinter Palace, see Hermitage, theWitte, Sergei 328-9, 331, 335women travellers 392-3women’s health 406WWII 336

XXinganling 291

YYablonovaya 217Yablonovy Mountains 217Yakutsk 263Yar 122Yaroslavl 127Yekaterinburg 16, 123, 146, 148-55,

150-1

INDEX Y-Z

437Yekaterinburg to Krasnoyarsk 54,

144-75, 145, 146climate 144highlights 145, 145itineraries 147planning information 144route description 146-8travel seasons 144

Yeltsin, Boris 62, 70, 148-9, 156, 355Yenisey River bridge 177Yeniseysk 187

Yermak Timofeevich 349Yerofey Pavlovich 221Yilick Ede 291Yuktali 253Yungang Caves 288yurts, see ger camps

ZZabaikalsk 291Zabaikalsky National Park 214

Zagustay 267Zamyn-Üüd 268Zaozernaya 178Zaudinsky 217, 267Zhang Qian 342Zhāngjiākou 269Zheleznogorsk-Ilimsky 252Zima 179

438

Walking TourDetour

Walking Tour

Path

Beach

Diving/Snorkelling

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

DrinkingCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder CrossingBus

CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParkingPetrol StationTaxiTrain/RailwayTramOther Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

Beach/Desert

Cemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

Top Sight(Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity/Course/Tour

BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Secondary

Unsealed Road

Tunnel

Cable Car/Funicular

Sights

Activities, Courses& Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking

Information

Transport Geographic

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

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These symbols give you the vital information for each listing:% Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bush Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferryp Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metron Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subwaya Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tubei Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram

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Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability – for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects.

421 Behind the Scenes

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Jenia, Konstanze, Francesca Broom, Nicola Butt, Rene Cabos, Cora De Koning, Roberto De Leon, Sien Deroo, Veronika Doblhoff-dier, Kieran Drake & Rachael Clapson, Thelma Gower, Reijo Härkönen, Basia Jozwiak, Suzanne Klein, Magnus Kohler, Francis Lafortune, Simo Laitinen, Neil Matthews, Amar Nanda, Emma Palios, Jiri Preclik & Andrea Votavova, Torben Prokscha, Fleur SGittinger & Rico Czaja, Christopher Sexton, Suvi Tossavainen, Hanna Van Egmond, Tobias Welte, Ekaterina Zaytseva

AUTHOR THANKS Anthony Haywood Much of this new edition of the Trans-Sib guide was researched parallel to the Russia guide. I’d like to thank Simon Richmond in particular for valuable input that fl owed into this book from his Russia original research. I’d also like to thank all authors and LP staff for doing such a professional job, fellow author Michael Kohn in particular for his expertise on Mongolia and China. Thanks to

Herr Fink from Lernidee-Erlebnisreisen and Herr Hahn at Gleisnost for their assistance; staff at Intourist’s railway booking offi ce who, without knowing the reason, patiently answered my questions; and staff at the information centres in Perm and Kazan. I’m also grateful to Tanya Ryabukhina in Moscow, Tamara Ryabukhina and Gennardy Doronin in Krasnoarmeysk, Katya Putina in Perm. Special thanks to Lyuba Suslyakova in Yekat-erinburg, Mark Smith of ‘Man in Seat 61’ fame and author Ian Frazier for fi nding time to be interviewed.

Marc Bennetts Thanks and love to Tanya Nevinskaya and Mariya Bennetts, who have been on many train journeys with me. Greetings to everyone who helped me on my travels.

Greg Bloom The biggest thanks go to Pop, who rolled with me (literally) for four weeks, taking many vodka shots for the team. Dad, you asked for an adventure; you got it! Thanks to predeces-sor Robert Reid for engaging and passing along many tips. On the road, shouts go out to Daria and Bryan in Khabarovsk, to Leo for various tips, to Misha in Komsomolsk, to Lera and Alyona in Kamchatka and, of course, to my homeboy Christian in Yakutsk.

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travell ers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well- travell ed team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a free book.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travell ers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well- travell ed team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a free book.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

422 Marc Di Duca A huge ‘dyakuyu’ to my Kyiv parents-in-law, Mykola and Vira, for taking care of my son Taras while I was on the road. Huge thanks also to Denis and Marina in Ulan-Ude, Svetla-na and Naran in Ulan-Ude, Zhenya in Irkutsk, Maria from the Irkutsk tourist offi ce, Yulia of Listvyanka tourist offi ce, Svetlana in Irkutsk, Nikita and Natalia in Khuzhir, Anatoly and Oksana in Krasnoyarsk, and Russian Railways and S7 Airlines for getting me everywhere on time. Last, to my wife, Tanya: thank you for all your support both during my travels and while I was writing up. You were great.

Michael Kohn Many thanks to fellow authors and edi-tors, especially Anthony Haywood, Anna Tyler, Marc Di Duca and Damian Harper. In Mongolia, special thanks to travellers Kirk Olson, Oyuna and Toroo (Khongor Guest-house). In China, thanks to Coco (Golden Pineapple Hostel) and Andy (Monkey Busi-ness). In Russia, thanks to Denis (Ulan-Ude Travellers House) and to Andrey the friendly customs offi cial who smuggled me on the cross-border train to China. Special thanks to Baigal and Molly who joined me for part of the journey.

Tom Masters Big thanks to my best friend in St Petersburg, Simon Patterson, for his good-humoured, vodka-soaked company on every trip I make to the city. Thanks also to Grégory Strub, Anna Knutson, Sergey Chernov, Tobin Auber, Dima Dzhafarov, Veronika Altukhova, Jessica Moroz, Chinawoman & Gang, Anthony Hay-wood, Simon Richmond, Mara Vorhees, Anna

Tyler and all the in-house team in Melbourne for their continued hard work and support.

Leonid Ragozin I would like to thank my wife, Masha Makeeva, for enduring my absences and accompanying me on some of my Golden Ring expeditions. Also, many thanks to Anna Tyler for taking me on board, and Anthony Haywood for guidance and a couple of great chats over shashlyk and beer in Moscow.

Mara Vorhees Moscow with one-year-old twins requires an extra set of thank-yous to everyone who helped the monkeys settle into life in the Rus-sian capital. Our awesome babysitter tops that list – Спасиба дорогоя Маша! My regular crew of Muscovite contacts was ever helpful, especially Tim O’Brien and Mirjana Vinsentin. Special thanks to Laura Bridge and Campbell Bethwaite for the ‘local knowledge’. And a mil-lion kisses to Jerry, Shay and Van for coming along for the ride.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.

Illustrations pp64-5 and pp98-9 by Javier Zarracina.

Cover photograph: Trans-Siberian, Irkutsk, Russia, Martin Moos, Lonely Planet Images. Many of the images in this guide are avail-able for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com.

This Book This 4th edition of Lonely Planet’s Trans-Siberian Railway guidebook was coordinated by Anthony Haywood. The follow-ing authors assisted with the research and writing of the book: Marc Bennetts, Greg Bloom, Marc Di Duca, Michael Kohn, Tom Masters, Leonid Ragozin and Mara Vorhees. Simon Richmond coordinated the previous two edi-tions, and Mark Elliott and Robert Reid also contributed to them. This guidebook was commis-sioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editors Anna Tyler, Emily K Wolman

Coordinating Editors Sarah Bailey, Carolyn Bain Coordinating Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Coordinating Layout Designer Nicholas Colicchia Managing Editors Imogen Bannister, Tasmin Waby Mc-Naughtan Senior Editors Susan Pater-son, Angela Tinson Managing Cartographers Adrian Persoglia, Amanda Sierp Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Jessica Crouch, Beth Hall, Briohny Hooper, Evan Jones, Kate Kiely

Assisting Cartographers Mick Garrett, James Leversha Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Rebecca Skinner Illustrator Javier Zarracina Language Content Annelies Mertens Thanks to Jo Cooke, Ryan Evans, Will Gourlay, Victoria Harrison, Laura Jane, Andi Jones, Yvonne Kirk, Shawn Low, Katie O’Connell, Trent Paton, Gerard Walker

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