4 womens apparel (chap 8)

Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel

Chapter 8Chapter 8


History of women’s apparelHistory of women’s apparel


1.1. Clothes made in the home, some Clothes made in the home, some homes even producing the raw homes even producing the raw materials such as cotton.materials such as cotton.

2.2. Custom-madeCustom-made-clothing fitted -clothing fitted specifically to the wearerspecifically to the wearer


3.3. 1910 – a blouse and skirt were sewn 1910 – a blouse and skirt were sewn together to make the first RTW together to make the first RTW dressdress

Ready to wear – clothing made in factories to standardize measurements.


Pret-a-porter – (pret-ah-portay) Pret-a-porter – (pret-ah-portay) french term for ready to wear.french term for ready to wear.

Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel Garment District- Seventh Ave. Garment District- Seventh Ave.

(Fashion Ave.)(Fashion Ave.)

Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel Garment District – Seventh Ave Garment District – Seventh Ave

(Fashion Avenue)(Fashion Avenue) WHY DID NYC BECOME THE WHY DID NYC BECOME THE

CENTER OF THE GARMENT CENTER OF THE GARMENT INDUSTRY?INDUSTRY?

1.It had a large pool of cheap, immigrant labor.

2.It was located near textile producers in New England and the South

3.It was a port city

Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel UnionizationUnionization 1900 – ILGWU- International Ladies Garment 1900 – ILGWU- International Ladies Garment

Workers UnionWorkers Union 1909-1910 strikes paved the way for collective 1909-1910 strikes paved the way for collective

bargainingbargaining 1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire -146 killed 1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire -146 killed

led to strict building codes and protective labor lawsled to strict building codes and protective labor laws Today – 35 hr 5 day work week, paid vacations, Today – 35 hr 5 day work week, paid vacations,

health, welfare and pension programshealth, welfare and pension programsLOOK FOR THE UNION LABELLOOK FOR THE UNION LABEL


FIRE AT THE TRIANGLE FACTORYFIRE AT THE TRIANGLE FACTORY The Triangle factory, at Greene Street and The Triangle factory, at Greene Street and

Washington Place near the New York Washington Place near the New York University law school, made shirtwaists, or University law school, made shirtwaists, or woman’s blouses. The blouse and skirt was woman’s blouses. The blouse and skirt was the uniform of the truly modern woman. the uniform of the truly modern woman. Unlike corsets and hoops, the shirtwaist was Unlike corsets and hoops, the shirtwaist was practical, and appropriate for the factory.practical, and appropriate for the factory.

The Triangle Factory Fire Con’tThe Triangle Factory Fire Con’t The fire occurred at the end of the day on March 25, The fire occurred at the end of the day on March 25,

1911, as workers were getting ready to leave. Some were 1911, as workers were getting ready to leave. Some were primping for dates that evening, others had stopped to primping for dates that evening, others had stopped to chat with friends on their way out. As was customary at chat with friends on their way out. As was customary at Triangle’s closing time, some doors were locked: Triangle’s closing time, some doors were locked: Management wanted all the workers to leave by the same Management wanted all the workers to leave by the same exit, so their bags could be checked for stolen goods. exit, so their bags could be checked for stolen goods. Many workers’ deaths were attributed to these locked Many workers’ deaths were attributed to these locked doors. In all, 146 people died. Some burned to death, doors. In all, 146 people died. Some burned to death, while others jumped to their deaths to escape the flameswhile others jumped to their deaths to escape the flames


CREATION OF WOMEN’S CREATION OF WOMEN’S APPARELAPPAREL

1.1. Developing a lineDeveloping a line Collection – expensive lineCollection – expensive line


SEASONAL LINESSEASONAL LINES SpringSpring SummerSummer Transitional (Fall I)Transitional (Fall I) Fall (Fall II)Fall (Fall II) Resort/ HolidayResort/ Holiday


Design Concept-Design Concept- Sketch developed Sketch developed on muslinon muslin

Sample hand-Sample hand- designer’s assistant, designer’s assistant, seamstressseamstress


Computer – Aided Design – (CAD) – Computer – Aided Design – (CAD) – Computer image designComputer image design


2.2. Producing a lineProducing a line – Production – Production begins when a sample pattern is begins when a sample pattern is created and presented to retail created and presented to retail buyers at manufacturer’s seasonal buyers at manufacturer’s seasonal shows. Orders are placed or shows. Orders are placed or dropped.dropped.


CuttingCuttingGraded or SlopedGraded or Sloped – developed from – developed from

the sample pattern, adjusted to meet the sample pattern, adjusted to meet dimensional requirements of each dimensional requirements of each size.size.

Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel MarkerMarker – A long piece of paper – A long piece of paper

upon which the pieces of the patter of upon which the pieces of the patter of a garment in all its sizes are outlined a garment in all its sizes are outlined and which is placed on top of many and which is placed on top of many layers of material for cutting layers of material for cutting purposes.purposes.


The layers of material are placed The layers of material are placed accurately by a accurately by a spreader.spreader.

After pieces are cut , they are After pieces are cut , they are bundledbundled


BundlingBundling – pattern pieced tied into – pattern pieced tied into bundles according to their sizesbundles according to their sizes

Women’s ApparelWomen’s Apparel2.2. SewingSewing- Most American - Most American

manufacturers are using manufacturers are using off-shore off-shore production-production- the manufacture of the manufacture of American goods in cheap labor American goods in cheap labor foreign countriesforeign countries


TYPES OF PRODUCERSTYPES OF PRODUCERS1.1. ManufacturersManufacturers

2.2. Apparel JobbersApparel Jobbers

3.3. ContractorsContractors


1. Manufacturer – performs all the – performs all the operations required to product operations required to product apparel, from buying the fabric to apparel, from buying the fabric to selling and shipping the finished selling and shipping the finished garment.garment.

Adv.Adv. – close quality control can be – close quality control can be maintained.maintained.


2.2. Apparel Jobbers-Apparel Jobbers- handles the handles the designing, the planning, the designing, the planning, the purchasing, usually the cutting, the purchasing, usually the cutting, the selling, and the shipping, but not the selling, and the shipping, but not the sewing operation.sewing operation.


3.3. ContractorContractor – is a producer whose – is a producer whose sole function is to supply sewing sole function is to supply sewing services to industry. It is sometimes services to industry. It is sometimes called an called an outside shopoutside shop..


MASS PRODUCTIONMASS PRODUCTION Section work or piece workSection work or piece work – each – each

sewer sews only a certain section of the sewer sews only a certain section of the garment such as a sleeve or hem.garment such as a sleeve or hem.


TRADITIONAL BASIC TRADITIONAL BASIC CATEGORIESCATEGORIES

a)a) Outerwear – coats, jacketsOuterwear – coats, jacketsb)b) DressesDressesc)c) Sportswear and SeparatesSportswear and Separatesd)d) After- five and eveningAfter- five and eveninge)e) SuitsSuits


TRADITIONAL BASIC TRADITIONAL BASIC CATEGORIES Con’tCATEGORIES Con’t

f)f) Bride & Bridesmaid attireBride & Bridesmaid attire

g)g) BlousesBlouses

h)h) Uniforms & ApronsUniforms & Aprons

i)i) MaternityMaternity


SIZE RANGESSIZE RANGESa.a. Women’sWomen’s

b.b. MissesMisses

c.c. JuniorsJuniors

d.d. PetitesPetites


SPECIAL SIZESSPECIAL SIZES PetitesPetites Large SizeLarge Size MaternityMaternity


PRICE ZONESPRICE ZONES1.1. Designer (highest prices)Designer (highest prices)

2.2. BridgeBridge

3.3. Better (medium- high prices)Better (medium- high prices)

4.4. Moderate (medium prices)Moderate (medium prices)

5.5. Budget (lower prices)Budget (lower prices)


Off-price apparel stores- the selling Off-price apparel stores- the selling of brand name and designer label of brand name and designer label merchandise at lower than normal merchandise at lower than normal retail prices.retail prices. EX: Marshall’s, TJ MaxxEX: Marshall’s, TJ Maxx


MARKETING OF WOMEN’S MARKETING OF WOMEN’S APPARELAPPAREL

AdvertisingAdvertising Women’s Wear DailyWomen’s Wear Daily WW Vogue, Harpers BazaarVogue, Harpers Bazaar


PublicityPublicity1.1. Supply celebrities with clothsSupply celebrities with cloths2.2. Fashion Shows and Press Weeks.Fashion Shows and Press Weeks.3.3. Trunk Shows- A form of pre-testing Trunk Shows- A form of pre-testing

that involves a producer’s sending a that involves a producer’s sending a representative to a store with samples representative to a store with samples and exhibiting those to customers at and exhibiting those to customers at announced showings.announced showings.


Trunk Shows give the Trunk Shows give the designer or manufacturer designer or manufacturer the opportunity to meet the opportunity to meet customers in the store customers in the store and obtain an and obtain an on-site on-site reactionreaction to the line and to the line and promote salespromote sales


QUICK RESPONSE - QUICK RESPONSE - A strategy A strategy used by manufacturers to shorten the used by manufacturers to shorten the ordering cycle to compete with ordering cycle to compete with foreign importsforeign imports

4 womens apparel (chap 8)

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Transcript of 4 womens apparel (chap 8)