4 Ian Russell Csiro

Implementation of EU Eco-label Criteria in

Supply Chains Processing Australian

Wool

Implementation of EU Eco-label Criteria in

Supply Chains Processing Australian

Wool

Ian Russell

Christine Nunn

CSIRO Textile and Fibre Technology

Ian Russell

Christine Nunn

CSIRO Textile and Fibre Technology

Textile and Fibre TechnologyTextile and Fibre Technology

Wool remains an important export industry for AustraliaWool remains an important

export industry for Australia

• Export value $A 3.8 B• Australia dominates fine wool production

– major end-use is garments.

• Only around 25% is scoured in Australia (2002); – only 44% of that is processed to ‘tops’– very little is processed further on shore– the wool industry must take a global focus

• Major export countries: – China 42% (90% as greasy)– Italy 16%– Taiwan 7%; India 6%; Korea 5%; France 5%

• Export value $A 3.8 B• Australia dominates fine wool production

– major end-use is garments.

• Only around 25% is scoured in Australia (2002); – only 44% of that is processed to ‘tops’– very little is processed further on shore– the wool industry must take a global focus

• Major export countries: – China 42% (90% as greasy)– Italy 16%– Taiwan 7%; India 6%; Korea 5%; France 5%


Strategic ImportanceStrategic Importance for Woolfor Wool

‘Green’ is now mainstream in Europe.

•Consumers trust Non-Government Organisations (NGOs), such as Greenpeace, for environmental and health advice.

•NGOs are directly targeting and influencing retailers.

•Consumers want to make ecological purchasing decisions, •But only if cost, fashion, functionality, quality are not compromised.

Environmental legislation is becoming comprehensive.


The European UnionThe European Union

Two major environmental Directives will affect the European textile processing industry

• Integrated Pollution Prevention and Control (IPPC) – (1999 -2007)

• The Water Framework Directive (2003)Both will require processors to source wool that is low

in pesticide residues.

EU Integrated Product Policy (IPP) will have a major impact on the way textiles are traded, processed and marketed globally.

Two major environmental Directives will affect the European textile processing industry

• Integrated Pollution Prevention and Control (IPPC) – (1999 -2007)

• The Water Framework Directive (2003)Both will require processors to source wool that is low

in pesticide residues.

EU Integrated Product Policy (IPP) will have a major impact on the way textiles are traded, processed and marketed globally.


Integrated Product Policy (IPP)

Integrated Product Policy (IPP)

• IPP (‘environmental product policy’) takes three approaches to increase uptake of ‘green’ products:

– Reduced taxes for ‘green ‘ products

– Promoting ‘green’ production by integrating eco-design and environment into product standards,

– Using eco-labels to give information on manufacturing

processes, to allow consumers and public sector purchasing bodies to make conscious purchasing decisions.

• IPP (‘environmental product policy’) takes three approaches to increase uptake of ‘green’ products:

– Reduced taxes for ‘green ‘ products

– Promoting ‘green’ production by integrating eco-design and environment into product standards,

– Using eco-labels to give information on manufacturing

processes, to allow consumers and public sector purchasing bodies to make conscious purchasing decisions.


EcolabelsEcolabels

Individual ecolabels need to gain market share to be recognised by consumers.


Two Ecolabel Types Two Ecolabel Types (in textiles)(in textiles)

Two Ecolabel Types Two Ecolabel Types (in textiles)(in textiles)

• Human ecology– Concerned with chemical analysis of trace

contaminants in final garment

• Sustainability and overall environmental impact– ‘Cradle-to-grave’ or ‘life cycle’ analysis– Traceable back to ISO 14040 and ISO 14020 standards

• Human ecology– Concerned with chemical analysis of trace

contaminants in final garment

• Sustainability and overall environmental impact– ‘Cradle-to-grave’ or ‘life cycle’ analysis– Traceable back to ISO 14040 and ISO 14020 standards


Example of “Human Ecology” Ecolabel

Example of “Human Ecology” Ecolabel

• Oekotex 100 (established 1992)– Certifies absence of certain toxic agents in final garment.– Widely recognised by retailers (Germany, France).– 3500 Companies, 25,000 certificates – Privately owned, proprietary analysis methods.– Licensed to 13 EU labs, 3 in China.

• Pesticides in Oekotex not relevant for wool

• Does not address processing impacts: cannot be used to support a claim of ‘environmentally friendly’.

• Oekotex 100 (established 1992)– Certifies absence of certain toxic agents in final garment.– Widely recognised by retailers (Germany, France).– 3500 Companies, 25,000 certificates – Privately owned, proprietary analysis methods.– Licensed to 13 EU labs, 3 in China.

• Pesticides in Oekotex not relevant for wool

• Does not address processing impacts: cannot be used to support a claim of ‘environmentally friendly’.


Example of Life Cycle Ecolabel‘EU Eco-label for Textiles’

Example of Life Cycle Ecolabel‘EU Eco-label for Textiles’

• Criteria are based on ‘Cradle to Grave’ or Life-Cycle Analysis to select the major environmental impacts.

• Life Cycle / Supply Chain approach: – Keep toxic materials out of the total system.– Minimise environmental footprint at all stages

• ISO 14024 ‘Type 1’ ecolabel

• Criteria are based on ‘Cradle to Grave’ or Life-Cycle Analysis to select the major environmental impacts.

• Life Cycle / Supply Chain approach: – Keep toxic materials out of the total system.– Minimise environmental footprint at all stages

• ISO 14024 ‘Type 1’ ecolabel


The EU eco-label is available not just for textiles but for for paints, paper, computers, shoes, bedding, lightbulbs, laundry detergents, soil improvers, dishwashers


EU Eco-label for Textiles

EU Eco-label for Textiles

• Criteria are reviewed on 3 yearly cycle– 2002 criteria can be used until 2007– Criteria set by NGOs (Greenpeace, Friends of the

Earth) ,Textile Industry, retailers, EU Environment Directorate, independent experts (CSIRO input).

• Aim: To identify the best one-third of processors

• Criteria are reviewed on 3 yearly cycle– 2002 criteria can be used until 2007– Criteria set by NGOs (Greenpeace, Friends of the

Earth) ,Textile Industry, retailers, EU Environment Directorate, independent experts (CSIRO input).

• Aim: To identify the best one-third of processors


EU Eco-label for TextilesEU Eco-label for Textiles

• Three main categories for criteria:– Textile Fibre– Processes and Chemicals, and– Fitness for use.

• Provides a simple, easy-to-understand summary of overall environmental ‘footprint’ of products.

• Three main categories for criteria:– Textile Fibre– Processes and Chemicals, and– Fitness for use.

• Provides a simple, easy-to-understand summary of overall environmental ‘footprint’ of products.


EU Eco-label CriteriaEU Eco-label Criteria: : Clean fibreClean fibre

EU Eco-label CriteriaEU Eco-label Criteria: : Clean fibreClean fibre

• Limitation of toxic residues in fibres– Acrylic: Acrylonitrile < 1.5 mg/kg.– Cotton: residues of certain pesticides < 0.05 ppm.– Elastane: Zn < 1,000 ppm.– Man-made cellulose: AOX < 250 ppm.– Polyester: Antinomy < 300 ppm.– Polypropylene: no lead based pigments. – Greasy wool and other keratin fibres: limitations

on pesticides

• Limitation of toxic residues in fibres– Acrylic: Acrylonitrile < 1.5 mg/kg.– Cotton: residues of certain pesticides < 0.05 ppm.– Elastane: Zn < 1,000 ppm.– Man-made cellulose: AOX < 250 ppm.– Polyester: Antinomy < 300 ppm.– Polypropylene: no lead based pigments. – Greasy wool and other keratin fibres: limitations

on pesticides


Clean Fibre:Greasy Wool Criteria 2002-2007

Clean Fibre:Greasy Wool Criteria 2002-2007

• Sum of organochlorines 0.5 mg/kg• Sum of synthetic pyrethroids 0.5 mg/kg• Sum of organophosphates 2 mg/kg• Sum of insect growth regulators 2 mg/kg

– diflubenzuron, triflumuron

• Note that cyromazine, dicyclanil, spinosad are exempt Test method: IWTO Draft Test Method 59:

• 50% of Australian wool complies

• Sum of organochlorines 0.5 mg/kg• Sum of synthetic pyrethroids 0.5 mg/kg• Sum of organophosphates 2 mg/kg• Sum of insect growth regulators 2 mg/kg

– diflubenzuron, triflumuron

• Note that cyromazine, dicyclanil, spinosad are exempt Test method: IWTO Draft Test Method 59:

• 50% of Australian wool complies


EU Eco-label CriteriaEU Eco-label Criteria: Clean : Clean ProcessingProcessing

EU Eco-label CriteriaEU Eco-label Criteria: Clean : Clean ProcessingProcessing

• Limitation of the use of substances harmful for the aquatic environment and health

• Processing additives, detergents shall be biodegradable.• No chloro-phenols, cerium compounds, halogenated

carriers.• Limits on heavy metals and formaldehyde.• No APEOs, SDBS, ‘quats’, EDTA in detergents, fabric

softeners and complexing agents.

• Limitation of the use of substances harmful for the aquatic environment and health

• Processing additives, detergents shall be biodegradable.• No chloro-phenols, cerium compounds, halogenated

carriers.• Limits on heavy metals and formaldehyde.• No APEOs, SDBS, ‘quats’, EDTA in detergents, fabric

softeners and complexing agents.


Dyes, PigmentsDyes, Pigments, , FinishesFinishes

Dyes, PigmentsDyes, Pigments, , FinishesFinishes

• No use of chrome mordant dyes (2002).• Limits on heavy metal impurities.• Limits on discharges of metal complex dyes.• No use of azo-dyes that cleave to toxic amines.• Limits on sensitising dyes. • No use of carcinogenic, mutagenic, toxic agents

– R50 - 53 (toxic to aquatic organisms)– R40 - 49 (carcinogenic)– R60 – 68 (mutagenic)

• Shrink resistant finishes – Halogenated shrink resist substances shall only be applied to wool

fibres (reviewed in 2002, allowed to stand)

• No use of chrome mordant dyes (2002).• Limits on heavy metal impurities.• Limits on discharges of metal complex dyes.• No use of azo-dyes that cleave to toxic amines.• Limits on sensitising dyes. • No use of carcinogenic, mutagenic, toxic agents

– R50 - 53 (toxic to aquatic organisms)– R40 - 49 (carcinogenic)– R60 – 68 (mutagenic)

• Shrink resistant finishes – Halogenated shrink resist substances shall only be applied to wool

fibres (reviewed in 2002, allowed to stand)


EU Eco-label for EU Eco-label for Textiles Textiles

---Marketing---Marketing

EU Eco-label for EU Eco-label for Textiles Textiles

---Marketing---Marketing

• The flower on clothes means – A minimum risk of allergies,– Limitation of water and air pollution during manufacture,– No residues of substances dangerous for health and the

environment, – Finally, clothes do not shrink more in the wash or fade

more than non-ecological clothes.

• The flower on clothes means – A minimum risk of allergies,– Limitation of water and air pollution during manufacture,– No residues of substances dangerous for health and the

environment, – Finally, clothes do not shrink more in the wash or fade

more than non-ecological clothes.


Comparison of Eco-labelsComparison of Eco-labelsComparison of Eco-labelsComparison of Eco-labels

Human EU

ecology Eco-label

Relevance to wool Independent audit Links to ISO14000 Environmental impact Links to EU BREF EC status/recognition Industry recognition Marketing Cost / simplicity

Human EU

ecology Eco-label

Relevance to wool Independent audit Links to ISO14000 Environmental impact Links to EU BREF EC status/recognition Industry recognition Marketing Cost / simplicity


EU EcoEU Eco--label for label for TextilesTextilesEU EcoEU Eco--label for label for TextilesTextiles

• ‘The (EU) textile and clothing industry is facing new challenges following the globalisation of the world economy and the competition of fast-growing Asian markets.

• ‘In order to stay in the business, companies have to look for differentiating factors by designing high-value textiles and clothing.

• Key Fact: By 2005, China will produce 70% of world textiles

• ‘The (EU) textile and clothing industry is facing new challenges following the globalisation of the world economy and the competition of fast-growing Asian markets.

• ‘In order to stay in the business, companies have to look for differentiating factors by designing high-value textiles and clothing.

• Key Fact: By 2005, China will produce 70% of world textiles


WTO and Processing Ecolabels Doha November 2001

WTO and Processing Ecolabels Doha November 2001

• ‘EU negotiates on strong environment position, to be able to discriminate products, based on processing method.

• Concern from developing countries that eco-labels that include processing criteria may be used as a trade barrier against ‘off-shore’ products.

• EU eco-label is voluntary, is based on ISO 14024 standard.

• ‘EU negotiates on strong environment position, to be able to discriminate products, based on processing method.

• Concern from developing countries that eco-labels that include processing criteria may be used as a trade barrier against ‘off-shore’ products.

• EU eco-label is voluntary, is based on ISO 14024 standard.


IPP and EU Public Purchasing

IPP and EU Public Purchasing

•EU public procurement is valued at 12-14% of GDP (850-1000 billion €). •Environmental purchasing preference for eco-label products will:

•Educate producers,•Increase availability , and•Reduce costs by economies of scale.

Example: Example: Example: Example:

Implementation of Implementation of

EU Eco-label Criteria in an EU Eco-label Criteria in an Australian Supply ChainAustralian Supply Chain

Implementation of Implementation of

EU Eco-label Criteria in an EU Eco-label Criteria in an Australian Supply ChainAustralian Supply Chain


• iZWool (WA), Stuart Adams MD

• Australian manufacturing supply chain

• Active outdoor/extreme sportswear

• Pure wool, next-to-skin knitted garments

• iZWool (WA), Stuart Adams MD

• Australian manufacturing supply chain

• Active outdoor/extreme sportswear

• Pure wool, next-to-skin knitted garments

The The CompanCompanyy

The The CompanCompanyy


The The ProductProduct

The The ProductProduct

• Wool at the extreme edge

• Wool next-to-skin for warmth, moisture and odour control

• Garments must perform:

– Shrink-resist, – Anti-pill

• Environmental credentials are essential in this market

• Wool at the extreme edge

• Wool next-to-skin for warmth, moisture and odour control

• Garments must perform:

– Shrink-resist, – Anti-pill

• Environmental credentials are essential in this market

(extract from iZWool website)


“iZWool International P/L aims to produce high performance wool fabrics from wool grown and processed with a minimal environmental footprint. We understand the need for responsible use of our natural resources, combining the correct use of production ensuring small environmental footprints. We believe this is a sustainable approach to producing high quality

performance-based wool garments.”

(extract from iZWool web site)

“iZWool International P/L aims to produce high performance wool fabrics from wool grown and processed with a minimal environmental footprint. We understand the need for responsible use of our natural resources, combining the correct use of production ensuring small environmental footprints. We believe this is a sustainable approach to producing high quality

performance-based wool garments.”

(extract from iZWool web site)

The iZWool Environmental The iZWool Environmental Assurance ProgramAssurance Program


The Australian Supply The Australian Supply ChainChain

The Australian Supply The Australian Supply ChainChain

• iZWool approached CSIRO for advice on environmental criteria for manufacturing processes used in its supply chain– Wool residue testing– Scouring, Topmaking, Shrink-resist– Spinning– Knitting– Dyeing

• But not at the expense of performance

• iZWool approached CSIRO for advice on environmental criteria for manufacturing processes used in its supply chain– Wool residue testing– Scouring, Topmaking, Shrink-resist– Spinning– Knitting– Dyeing

• But not at the expense of performance


The solution: The solution: EU eco-labelEU eco-labelThe solution: The solution: EU eco-labelEU eco-label

• iZWool and supply chain members agree to adopt EU eco-label criteria

• Mechanism for consumers to recognise good environmental performance through complete processing chain

• Existing iZWool on-farm declarations remain as additional elements

• iZWool and supply chain members agree to adopt EU eco-label criteria

• Mechanism for consumers to recognise good environmental performance through complete processing chain

• Existing iZWool on-farm declarations remain as additional elements


The CustomerThe CustomerThe CustomerThe Customer

• North American

• The largest global supplier of outdoor wear

• Has never used wool in product range because of concerns with its environmental footprint

• Customer agrees to evaluate initial 5 tonne lot of pure wool ‘active sportswear’ garments.

• North American

• The largest global supplier of outdoor wear

• Has never used wool in product range because of concerns with its environmental footprint

• Customer agrees to evaluate initial 5 tonne lot of pure wool ‘active sportswear’ garments.


The ChallengesThe ChallengesThe ChallengesThe Challenges

• Wool growers make false pesticide declarations– Poor understanding of chemical treatments– Chemical names are complex (need for training)

• Middle levels of supply chain had no understanding of eco-label requirements

• Companies are reluctant to change established

procedures or recipes unless they see future benefits

• However, consumers are driving the change

• Wool growers make false pesticide declarations– Poor understanding of chemical treatments– Chemical names are complex (need for training)

• Middle levels of supply chain had no understanding of eco-label requirements

• Companies are reluctant to change established

procedures or recipes unless they see future benefits

• However, consumers are driving the change


ConclusionsConclusionsConclusionsConclusions• EU eco-label is achievable

– Application for EU eco-label for iZWool will be October 2003– CSIRO pilot scale mill operates to eco-label standards – EU eco-label allows production of high performance garments

• The EU eco-label is ISO 14024 Type 1 eco-label – EU eco-label provides credible information on environmental footprint

• EU eco-label well suited for supply chains– Strategy is to avoid use of toxic agents, fewer problems downstream– Each processing stage can be audited separately

• A major supply chain is being established: – Tasmanian wool to European retailer: – Vendor declaration backed with testing

• EU eco-label is achievable– Application for EU eco-label for iZWool will be October 2003– CSIRO pilot scale mill operates to eco-label standards – EU eco-label allows production of high performance garments

• The EU eco-label is ISO 14024 Type 1 eco-label – EU eco-label provides credible information on environmental footprint

• EU eco-label well suited for supply chains– Strategy is to avoid use of toxic agents, fewer problems downstream– Each processing stage can be audited separately

• A major supply chain is being established: – Tasmanian wool to European retailer: – Vendor declaration backed with testing


EU Eco-label for textiles EU Eco-label for textiles offers...offers...

EU Eco-label for textiles EU Eco-label for textiles offers...offers...

• A mechanism for consumers and public procurement bodies to recognise products manufactured from clean fibre using low-impact manufacturing practices.

• The EU Eco-label will be widely recognised by consumers on a range of products, in all EU countries.

• It is one of the tools in Europe’s “Integrated Product

Policy” to deliver sustainable products to Europe’s 380 million wealthy, environmentally-aware consumers.

• Will become the global ‘Standard’ for eco-wool products

• A mechanism for consumers and public procurement bodies to recognise products manufactured from clean fibre using low-impact manufacturing practices.

• The EU Eco-label will be widely recognised by consumers on a range of products, in all EU countries.

• It is one of the tools in Europe’s “Integrated Product

Policy” to deliver sustainable products to Europe’s 380 million wealthy, environmentally-aware consumers.

• Will become the global ‘Standard’ for eco-wool products

4 Ian Russell Csiro

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