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Wild Land NewsMagazine of the Scottish Wild Land Group

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18/9

The Glen Etive hydroschemes

Hilltracks Campaign:A busy year

How wildness is lost:250 years of attrition

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Winter 2018/19

WILD LAND NEWSIssue 94

Magazine of theScottish Wild Land Group

SWLGwww.swlg.org.ukadmin@swlg.org.uk8 Cleveden RoadGlasgow G12 0NTRegistered Charity No.:SC004014

SWLG Co-ordinatorBeryl LeatherlandMembership SecretaryGrant CornwallisTreasurerTim Ambrose

WLN EditorJames Fentonjames@swlg.org.ukPlease send in contributions.Individual articles do notnecessarily reflect the views ofthe SWLG Steering Team.

Printed byBay PrintingDalgety Bay

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CONTENTS

Editorial p.4

The Glen Etive p.5hydro schemesBill Stephens

Hilltracks campaign p.10updateBeryl Leatherland

Obituary: p.15David BattyPeter Willimott

How wildness p.18is lostJames Fenton

Front cover: Beinn Dòrain, by JamesFentonLeft: Aonach Mor, by James Fenton

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More glum news from Wester Ross.The Highland Council has approvedthe conversion of Loch a’Bhraoininto a reservoir. This three-milelong loch goes from the southernend of the Destitution Road (theFain) westwards towards SgurrDubh and Mullach Coire MhicFhearchair into the heart of WildLand Area 28. An area whichincludes the remote Letterewe andFisherfield Forests.

There will now be an ugly draw-down zone around the loch duringdry spells, yet another sign ofhuman intrusion into our remainingwild areas.

The landscape assessment of thishydro project is weak. ‘Drawdown’is only mentioned twice in thewhole report: “a small longer termeffect is considered possible … as aresult of drawdown around theloch,” but this “would not result inany significant long term effect tolandscape character.” Someoneasleep on the job? How long will itbe before the Lochan Fada/LochMaree hydroscheme isresurrected?

The other glum news is that theLoch Gaineamhach hydroschemeinto the heart of the Torridonmountains south of Badachro hasbeen resubmitted. This will result incontinuing encroachment into thecore area of Wild Land Area 27 asdescribed in the last issue of WildLand News.

Although we objected to the earlierscheme before it was withdrawn,we missed the deadline forconsultation for this new scheme.For the Loch a’Bhraoin scheme, wedid get in a late objection, butobviously to no avail ... attrition ofwild land continues apace.

***

We are conscious that manydevelopments which could damagewild land will be slipping throughthe net. It would be helpful ifmembers could keep their ears tothe ground and also look at theonline planning portals of localauthorities. If you come across anypotentially damaging applications,please let us know so that we canrespond timeously.

Editorial

James Fenton

Drawdown round Loch Cluanie. Photo J Fenton

______

More

glum news

from

Wester

Ross

______

5

The Gaelic legend Deirdre of theSorrows is partly set in the Etivehills and, as the name suggests, itdoesn’t end well. Another story isunfolding that could have anotherunhappy ending following theplanning applications submitted inJune 2018 to The Highland Councilfor seven hydro power schemes,together making up ‘The Glen EtiveHydro Project.’

These are all ‘run of river’ schemeson tributaries of the River Etivealong a 12 km stretch, with eachcomprising one or more ‘intake

structures’ or dams, ‘penstock’ orburied pipeline and powerhouse –together with access tracks, bridgesand borrow pits. These are (withplanning reference):

A Allt a’ Chaorainn 18/02742B Allt Fhaolain 18/02740 (now 18/05439)C Allt Charnan 18/02738D Allt Ceitlein 18/02739E Allt nan Gaoirean 18/03024F Allt Mheuran 18/02741 (now 18/05440)G Allt a’ Bhioran 18/03026

Glen of Sorrows:The Glen Etive hydro schemes

Bill Stephens

Contains OS data © Crown copyright and database right 2019.Produced on QGIS by James Fenton

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Despite being a necessary part ofthe project, the connections to theNational Grid are not included inthe planning applications or theenvironmental impact assessmentreports.

The applications generated manyobjections from organisations andindividuals that can be viewed onThe Council’s website. The SWLGletter, also available to read on ourwebsite, made it clear that we are‘generally in favour of renewableenergy schemes’ but recognisedthat ‘there is a case for objecting toall of them due to their probablecombined adverse cumulativeimpacts’ on wild land qualities.However, objections wererestricted to the three schemes tothe south of the River Etive that liewithin the Loch Etive Mountains

Wild Land Area (WLA), withcomments made on the proximityof the proposed Allt Fhaolainpowerhouse to the Inbhirfhaolainclimbing hut.

The John Muir Trust also objectedto the three scheme in the WLA asdid Mountaineering Scotland withthe Munro Society and GrampianClub objecting to others. TheScottish Canoe Association objectedto four of the schemes on thetributaries of the River Etive thatare ‘often paddled’.

Although SNH wanted additionalinformation on two of the schemesbefore providing their final advice,they considered the proposalswould only have a ‘localised’ impacton the WLA and ‘will not affect theexperience of wildness or result in

New Highland landscapes: tracks associated with a hydro scheme inwest Glen Quoich, south of Glen Shiel. Photo Jane Meek

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significant effects on the widerappreciation of the WLA or thequalities of the area’.

The schemes all lie within the BenNevis & Glencoe National ScenicArea, but the SNH view on theimpact on the NSA was even moreemphatic stating that the proposal‘will not have an adverse effect onthe integrity of the NSA or thespecial qualities for which it hasbeen designated’.

Responding to the objections andconcerns, the applicant submittedSupplements to the EnvironmentalImpact Assessments at the end ofNovember with the changes madeto schemes B and F requiring theoriginal planning applications to bewithdrawn and new applicationsmade. This triggered a furtherconsultation period which expiredon 6 January, and to which SWLGresponded with a renewedobjection.

The supplementary information tothe planning applications respondsto specific points made by theCouncil, SEPA and SNH providingfurther information andclarification: a phased constructionschedule to manage traffic andreduce the ‘cumulative impact’; theexisting two wire pole mountedtransmission line will be ‘upgradedto accommodate a new 3 wire gridconnection’ but with no pylondetails given; ‘on demand system’to maintain flows for canoeingsecured by a legal agreement;reinstatement and restorationproposals including constructionmethods for ‘excavated tracks’;access for hill walkers; and borrowpit details. The siting of someintakes, access tracks andpowerhouses have been amendedwith the more significant changesto the Allt Fhaolainn and AlltMheuran schemes resulting in newapplications being submitted.

New Highland landscapes: tracks associated with a hydro scheme inCoire Buidhe, above Loch Creran. Photo James Fenton

______

The

applications

generated

many

objections

_____

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Although the clarification given inthe supplementary information isto be welcomed, it does beg thequestion why much of it wasn’tincluded in the originalapplications. The haphazard listingof the published documents anddrawings also makes it difficult toassess what’s proposed and italmost feels this is a deliberate ployby the applicant, although theCouncil may also be at fault whenuploading these.

A few months ago I viewed the sitesfor the proposed hydro schemesand felt that the impact would notbe as great as initially feared withmore buildings and developmentalong the Glen, such as a prominenttelecommunications mast, andlarger forestry plantations to thewest of the River Etive than Iremembered. The intakes are alsolocated between the 100 metres

and 190 metres contour, lowerthan some other schemes currentlybeing considered with those for theBenmore Farm scheme at a heightof 450 metres and the fourLochaber Hydro schemes allbetween 330 and 430 metres.

Nevertheless, it’s not for nothingGlen Etive is designated a NSA withthree of the proposed hydroschemes also in a WLA and theother four clearly visible from it anda judgement has to be made if thedisruption and industrialisation ofthe Glen is an acceptable price topay to keep the lights on. There areof course alternatives with the6.5MW total generating capacity ofthe seven schemes equivalent tothat from a single offshore windturbine – not that these also do nothave a significant environmentalimpact!

New Highland landscapes: tracks associated with a hydro scheme on theAuch Estate, north of Tyndrum. Photo Jane Meek

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Beryl Leatherland

Hilltracks campaign update

before they embark on such works;in theory at least, the authority canintervene to some extent, althoughfor various reasons it is difficult forthem to refuse a track and we havenever encountered this happening.We monitored the implementationand the effectiveness of the 2014Order by weekly scrutiny ofdevelopment proposals in 11 localauthorities and the two NationalParks. We did this by collectingmaterial and case histories via ateam of diligent and valuedvolunteers, and also from membersof the public (including some SWLG

As SWLG members will be aware,we are major participants in theScottish Environment LINKHilltracks Campaign. I described thelong historical background to this inthe Autumn 2016 issue of thismagazine (Issue 89), which isavailable on the SWLG website.

Since 2013 we have been focussingon the tracks which can be builtwithout planning permission, i.e.come under General PermittedDevelopment. So we have notincluded in the campaign thenumerous ones requiring fullplanning permission, such as thoseassociated with hydro schemes,wind farms or transmission lines:any improvements in that arenawould require a different set of“asks” (this is not to say that weignore them – far from it – and wecontinue to respond as far as weare able to new developmentproposals of concern).

As a result of our efforts and thepublication of our earlier reportTrack Changes, a new Order cameinto effect in December 2014 sothat landowners have now tosubmit a Prior Notification to theirlocal authority for consideration

The Charr to Edindocher track north of Glen Dye.Photo Beryl Leatherland

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members) who have sent usmaterial as a result of our variousonline campaign activities.

Continuing landscape damageWe continued to be concerned atthe level of environmental damageresulting from poorly constructedtracks and the associatedinadequate regulation. Tracks havepenetrated into National Parks,Wild Land Areas and Sites of SpecialScientific Interest. Old stalker’sroutes and historical hill routeshave been ‘upgraded’ and‘repaired’ in the quest for easieraccess into the hills, mostly it seemsfor sporting use. Unlike the fullplanning system, with permitteddevelopment there is no procedurefor members of the public tosubmit comments to planningauthorities, even where there arepotential problems with individualtracks. This can be seen asundemocratic and clearly runscounter to the ScottishGovernment's claim that they wantto see increased public engagementin the planning system. In addition,there are loopholes in the systemand, as we expected, these arefrequently exploited. It is evident

that despite claimed agriculturalpurposes to justify them, manytracks are built for stalking andgrouse shooting access, for whichfull planning applications should besubmitted.

Changing TracksOur findings were collated andpublished in September 2018 in ourlatest evidenced report ChangingTracks, compiled with greatthoroughness by Mel Nicoll andfunded by the ScottishMountaineering Trust, the BMCAccess and Conservation Fund, LINKand our members.

The report was launched with a fullmedia and PR campaign and we aregrateful to Ramblers Scotland whoarranged for their very talentedDanny Carden to spend time onthis. Copies were sent to relevantpoliticians and others, includingthose that could be considered tobe opponents of what we are tryingto achieve and with whom we havenevertheless engaged. Gratifyingly,there was a lot of media interest:press, social, broadcast andpublished. Helen Todd of RamblersScotland and I, as convenors of the

The infamous Ledgown track by Achnasheen. Still highly

Exposed, cracking and collapsing peat beside the track illustrated on page 9.Photos Beryl Leatherland

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campaign, were interviewed for theOut of Doors programme at aCairngorms National Park locationon a really wet and windy day, andlisteners were updated in asubsequent programme.

We recognised, however, that astand-alone campaign was unlikelyto achieve the profile and tractionnecessary to prompt re-evaluationof the legal framework involved,especially when there were otherpressing demands on politicians.We needed a strong hook to latchonto to help further our aims. Anopportunity arose in the form ofthe deeply flawed Planning Bill thathas been progressing for severalmonths, well behind schedule,through the Scottish Parliament.

Planning Bill reviewWe lobbied extensively lastsummer and autumn and enlistedthe knowledgeable support of AndyWightman MSP who tabled anamendment (one of over 300) to

the Bill at Stage 2. The amendmentaimed to prevent vehicle tracksbeing built without planningpermission on any land used forfield sports and also to require aplanning application for all tracksintended to be built in NationalParks, SSSIs and HistoricBattlefields. We also gained supportfrom other MSPs, but at Stage 2only the members on the LocalGovernment and CommunitiesCommittee (LGCC) have a vote. Iattended the 31st October debatein Holyrood and despite Andymaking a very reasonable andpersuasive case for his amendmentand giving some excellentbackground, the voting went onparty lines, 5:2 against. It was veryheartening to see the plethora ofstrongly supportive, and oftenindignant, comments on socialmedia and popular blog sites thatensued, demonstrating strongpublic interest in the issue.Cameron McNeish wrote a robust

A track below Ben Sgulaird; Ben Cruachan in the distance.Photo James Fenton

The infamous Ledgown track by Achnasheen. Still highlyvisible in the lansdscape. Photo Jane Meek

______

We continue

to be

concerned

about the

damage

from poorly

constructed

tracks

_____

12

article questioning the currentgovernment on this issue.

While the unfavourable vote was adisappointment, it was notunexpected and we continue,undaunted, to Stage 3 of thedebate, which we expect sometimethis spring. At that stage, there willbe debates and voting involving allMSPs, so we need to do even morelobbying and consolidation of oursupport – ever conscious that thosenot in sympathy with our aims willof course be doing exactly thesame.

We originally set out to monitorboth forestry and agricultural trackproposals submitted to localauthorities. In practice the majorityof tracks of concern have beenthose with a claimed agriculturaluse; there were fewer problemswith forestry tracks. That is not tosay that such track proposals areuniformly acceptable andsometimes we have had concerns

over the quality of some priornotifications we have seen. At leastthe forestry industry has its ownguidance on forest roads, there ismuch more regulation and publicaccountability of forestry thanthere is of field sports, and wereckoned that the recent ForestryStrategy consultation would offeran alternative route and someopportunity to address these issuesseparately.

Grouse moor reviewDuring a long-running campaign it isessential to be alert foropportunities. We therefore wroteto the Cabinet Secretary (RoseannaCunningham) and asked, withsupporting reasons, for tracks to beincluded in the scope of the grousemoor review which was set up lastyear under the chairmanship ofProfessor Werrity. This reviewarose from the widespread adversepublicity from illegal raptorpersecution associated with someestates. We received a sympathetic

A badly constructed track below Ben Sgulaird, showing water erosion. Photo James Fenton

______

The profile

of the

Hilltracks

Campaign

must be

maintained

_____

13

but open-ended response and infact they have not been included asan issue, despite their adverselandscape impact. I have spokenbriefly to Professor Werrity but hehas to work to the restricted briefprescribed by government. During aLINK ministerial meeting I drew thisomission to the attention of thenew Environment Minister MairiGougeon soon after herappointment, but to no avail.

The profile of the campaign mustbe maintained and this has beenhelped by a parliamentary questionfrom Andy Wightman to theEnvironment Minister asking whyhilltracks had been omitted fromthe Werrity review. He received atypical ministerial non-answer, butat least the issue was raised in theChamber. We have subsequentlywritten to Roseanna Cunninghamto express our concern about theGovernment’s position and await areply.

As part of our efforts to seek widercoalition partners, we have been indiscussions with the Revivecampaign which launched a reportrecently on issues around intensivegrouse moor management – AndyWightman was one of the authors.One of their key issues relating togrouse moors is the damage causedby tracks, so it is useful to shareinformation and materials.

Next stepsOur planning applicationmonitoring effort has been reducedbut continues across theCairngorms National Park and thefive local authorities where we haveencountered the most cases. Thisactivity still reveals cases of concernand we are reliant on our longstanding monitors for theirpersistence in finding these.Members of the public continue tosend us material including enquiriesabout the occasional track that isbuilt where not even a prior

Gully erosion beside a track below Ben Sgulaird. Photo James Fenton

______

Monitoring

reveals that

there are

still cases of

concern

_____

14

notification has been submitted.We follow these up with the localauthority, although sadly, althoughplanning departments say theyintend to use enforcement action,they generally resort toretrospective planning permission.

What are our next steps? We arebusy preparing for Stage 3 of thePlanning Bill. Early in 2019, once wehave some firm dates for Stage 3,we will appeal directly for helpfrom our members and others viaour websites so please look out foralerts at www.swlg.org.uk. If any ofyou as our members are preparedto directly support the campaignand speak with their local MSP at aclinic or contact them (and/or anyother MSPs) by email we should bedelighted to assist as such directcontact is very effective.

2019 will be the sixth year of ourwork on this campaign for Helen

and me, and we aim to makefurther progress on this majorlandscape issue.

The LINK report can be read at:http://www.scotlink.org/wp/files/Changing-Tracks_LINK_Hilltracks_Report.pdf

Some press articles following theStage 2 debate are:https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/news/hill-tracks-why-is-the-snp-government-blocking-progress/0018783/https://www.tgomagazine.co.uk/news/andy-wightmans-bid-to-control-damaging-hill-tracks-blocked-by-msps/https://www.thenational.scot/news/17211557.abuse-of-path-loophole-for-grouse-shooting-threatens-our-landscape/

A track on a shooting estate in the Monadhliath.Photo James Fenton

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the company Rosyth RoyalDockyard PLC.

During the period David describesas his ‘Student Years’ (1963 –1967), when he was qualifying as anaccountant, he became ‘areasonably active hill walker’.However, his busy professionalcareer restricted his activities andhis record show that by 1989 hehad only climbed 44 Munros,although there were many repeatsand non-Munros. He set himself thetarget of completing the Munros byhis 50th birthday and achieved thison 11th June 1994 on Meall nanTarmachan. In July 2007 he joinedthe Munro Society playing a keyrole within the Society. He servedas Treasurer, Secretary, and VicePresident before becoming thePresident in April 2018.

Much of David’s work is notcredited. He has played a key rolein the Munro Society’s ‘MountainReporting Project’. The publishedreports, which can be viewed onthe Societies web site, areanonymous. (See:www.themunrosociety.com/mountain-reporting ). David hascontributed many of these. His

SWLG Member and President of theMunro Society, David Batty, died onNovember 20th whilst descendingfrom Dugland in the CarsphairnHills. The height given for that hill is1995 feet (608.0 m) and aprominence of 151 feet (41.0 m).To qualify as a ‘Donald’ a mountainin the Scottish Lowlands must havea height of 2000 feet and aprominence of over 100 feet. Davidhad been one of a small party whowere measuring the height of thishill. He was a co author of theMunro Society’s Book ‘Scaling theHeights’, an account of ‘measuringthe mountains’. But there wasmuch more to David then justmeasuring and ticking off hills. Hehad a real affinity and love of themountains and wild land.

Though born in England, David’sfamily moved to Scotland when hewas a schoolboy. He finished hisschooling in Glasgow before havinga very successful business career.He qualified as an accountant thenjoined Babcock and Wilcox,eventually becoming financedirector. He was involved in themerger with, and subsequentbuyout, of Thorn EMI, setting up

Obituary: David Batty 1944-2018

Peter Willimott

______

The Scottish

mountains

have lost a

great friend

_____

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reports benefit from his extensiveknowledge of flora and fauna,mountain issues and his skills as aphotographer. Extracts from twocontrasting reports by him follow.

The first is of ‘Windy Standard’ a hilllocated close to Dugland. Heascended this hill on 29/04/2014and his reflections on the day state“the day was marred by thepresence of wind farms, extensiveuniform non-native pineplantations, a dreadful ATV trackacross the hillside servicing a radiomast, considerable litter at the startand a truly appalling rubbish tip ataround 450 metres which includedasbestos. All amounting to quitethe worst denigration of amountain landscape I have everseen in 50 years walking the hills.”The two photographs of his shownon this page back up his views.

In contrast on 22ⁿd June 2017 Davidclimbed Ruadh Stac Mor andA'Mhaighdean. His report reads:“This was an excellent trip toaccompany a TMS member oncompleation of her final twoMunros of her third round. Theweather was much better thanforecast but this walk would be

best in clear weather as the photoopportunities are excellent. Thereare good paths/tracks for a lot ofthe way. The sense of remotenessis great, particularly when droppingoff A’Mhaighdean into upperGleann na Muice. The views areoutstanding throughout the walk.One to savour.” Two of thephotographs he took on this walkare shown on the next page.

Some idea of his work can be takenfrom the heading of his ‘Blog’ whichmakes up the first couple of pagesof the Society’s DecemberNewsletter, which was with theprinter at the time of his death. Itreads “David Batty has had a busyfew months. An exhibition, adinner, hydro schemes, bookpublishing, an injured stag and aninjured owl to contend with, and,oh yes, just a few hills climbed in hisrapidly diminishing spare time.”

The exhibition mentioned is ‘TheMunro Legacy’ exhibition which willrun at Perth’s AK Bell Library from5th March 2019 and then at theDundee Mountain Film Festival inNovember. The SWLG haveprovided David with some materialit is hoped will be included.

Windy Standard rubbish tip, including domestictype rubbish, at GR approx. 626043, 450 metres

Wind farm on Windy Standard, with surroundinguniform forestry plantations

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The Scottish Mountains have lost agreat friend.

The Munro Society’s Scaling theHeights was published in 2018.David Batty was a member of theeditorial team and wrote thechapter ‘Members’ Reflections ofthe Future Heightings’.

For information on obtaining thebook please e-mail:info@themunrosociety.com

The blog referred to above can beread here :www.themunrosociety.com/assets/uploads/files/Newsletter%2044%20Dec18%20pp1-3.pdf

Beinn Dearg Bheag & Mor, An Teallach & Beinna’Chlaidheimh from Ruadh Stac Mor

Beinn Lair, Meall Mheinidh, Beinn Airigh Charr,Fionn Loch, Dubh Loch from A’Mhaighdean

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This article illustrates in roughchronological order the mainchanges to the Highland landscapeover the centuries. It considers onlythe wild, uncultivated land, not thesettlements and the land aroundwhere signs of human impactwould always have been high, asshown in the picture below.

Up until the 1800s there wouldhave been summer shielings distantfrom the settlements in the areas ofbetter grazing, but it is unlikelytheir presence would havedramatically altered thesurrounding landscape. Nowadaysthe signs of the small shielingbuildings are slowly disappearing,reclaimed by nature. Roads were

absent before the military roads ofthe 1700s.

Before the Highland Clearances andthe era of Victorian shootingestates, the land was not managedas such although it was used forgrazing, hunting and peat cuttingand, where present and nearhabitation, the exploitation ofwoods.

A naturally wild landscapeLandscapes where the vegetationpattern is determined by naturalprocesses (i.e. is not designed byhumans) and where infrastructureis absent can be termed naturallandscapes. Where such landscapes

How wildness is lost:250 years of encroachment into the hills

James Fenton

This article considers the land beyond the areas of settlement, i.e. the unenclosed hill land asshown here above Achiltibuie.

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are still found in the Highlands theyrepresent some of the most naturalremaining in Europe – althoughthey are becoming increasinglyrare.

***

“The next day I travelled over anexceeding high mountain, calledmount Skeene … and withall, amost familiar mist embraced meround, that I could not see thricemy length any way : withall, ityielded so friendly a deaw, that itdid moisten thorow my clothes ;where the old proverb of a Scottishmiste was verified, in wetting me tothe skinne. Up and downe, I thinkthis hill is six miles, the way souneven, stony, and full of bogges,quagmires, and long heath, that adogge with three legs will out-runne a horse with four …”

Taylor, The Water Poet, in 1618 onMount Keen (939m)

“As I stood at the height of the roadand gazed down on its strangecourse both ways, I could not helprejoicing that there was at least oneplace where railways, canals, andsteamers and all these devices forsinking hills and raising valleys, andintroducing man and levels, anddestroying solitude and nature,would for ever be set at defiance.”

Lord Cockburn at the Rest and BeThankful in 1838

“When cross-country droving inScotland on an appreciable scalefirst began, and for many a yearthereafter, a great part of theHighland and upland areas of thecountry was common land, or atthe least land which, whilenominally owned by the localchieftain, was in fact unused anduncared for.”

A R B HaldaneThe Drove Roads of Scotland, 1952

“Settlement in the westernHighlands and Islands was mainlyconfined to very limited areasbecause of the challengingconstraints of geology, climate andgeography. Therefore, whenmodern visitors contemplate hillsand glens which are empty ofpeople, they should not assumethey were inhabited in the past. Orthat their present silence andloneliness were necessarily theconsequence of later clearance andemigration.”

Tom DevineThe Scottish Clearances, 2018

The Highlands: a natural and wild landscape. Beinn Dearg,Ross-shire.

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PEAT CUTTINGS

Period: For thousands of years, butthe practice is now dying out

Extent: Throughout Scotland

Reversibility: Irreversible (althoughpeat will regrow over thousands ofyears)

Peat has always been the main fuelof Scotland. Peat cutting, togetherwith creation of inbye land, probablycaused the greatest landscapechange throughout the earliercenturies.

Once all the peat near settlementswas used up, the people had totravel further and further to winpeat. In extreme cases, such as theisland of Eriskay, all the peat wasexhausted and people were reducedto removing and burning turf,resulting in exposure of bedrock insome places.

Hence much of the flatter land nearto existing and earlier settlementsconsists of land which once waspeat-covered. Peat growth mayeventually resume, but the processtakes thousands of years.

Traditional peat cutting in Wester Ross.

Over the millennia, removal of peat has transformed thelandscape. This picture in Shetland.

Signs of old peat cuttings are visible throughout theHighlands, here at Inverasdale.

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ROADS & RAILWAYS

Period: From 1725 onwards

Extent: Throughout the Highlands

Reversibility: Early roads tended tofollow the landforms and, whenunused, tend to merge back into thelandscape. Modern roads withsignificant landform modificationare to all intents and purposesirreversible

Before the building of the firstmilitary roads by General Wade,which began in 1725, themountainous areas of the Highlandswere road-less. For most of history,the sea was the main highway. Itwas only possible for wheeledvehicles to traverse the Highlandsafter the completion of the roadnetwork supervised by ThomasTelford in the early 19th century.

During the Victorian era, thecoming of the railways opened upthe Highlands to mass visitation.

The development of the road andrail infrastructure in the previouslytrackless uplands was an essentialprerequisite of the subsequentdevelopment of the Highlands –which, inevitably, accelerated theloss of wildness.

The Wade bridge at Daviot.

Road bridges old and new at Dunbeath.

Kyle of Lochalsh station. This line terminated at Stromeferryin 1870, when the line was opened, and was extended to Kyle

in 1897 – which at that time had only half a dozen houses.

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FENCING

Period: From the 18th centuryonwards

Extent: Throughout the hills andmoors

Reversibility: The process isreversible in that the fences can beremoved, although experience to-date suggests most will remain insitu even when redundant

As the shieling system(transhumance) died out, first dykesand then fences were built to keepstock out of the inbye land.

Compartmentalisation of the widerlandscape began with the erectionof fences and dykes as sheep-farmboundaries in the 18th century.These often went over the summitsof the hills at over 900 metresaltitude. Their remains are stillvisible today.

Compartmentalisation of theremaining wild areas throughfencing remains widespread today.This can be to manage grazing,separate landholdings, protectwoodland or for road safety.Particularly common nowadays arelong lengths of high deer fencingsurrounding new woodland/forestryschemes.

Roadside fencing also subdivides thearea: for example, roadside deerfencing from Garve to Loch Maree ineffect separates off the northwestHighlands.

The remains of a Victorian fence in the Monadhliath,built to separate sheep farms.

The Beinn Eighe ring fence built to exclude deer toallow woodland development.

A modern stock fence below Beinn Chapull in Argyll.

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VICTORIAN & LATERSHOOTING ESTATES

Period: 19th century

Extent: Throughout the Highlands

Reversibility: Buildings can beremoved but access tracks are likelyto remain. The pattern of muirburnfor grouse is reversible in that ifburning ceases the heather standswill recover to full height

Although there have been castlesand strongholds in the Highlandssince Pictish times (brochs), thesewere largely coastal or in the largerstraths. The creation of the Victorianshooting estates caused accesstracks and shooting lodges to bebuilt in the heart of the mountains.Before this period the areas wouldhave been road-less. Where theglens and straths were inhabited,there would have been turf housesand smaller shieling huts.

Management of moorland forgrouse through rotational heatherburning has resulted in an unnaturalpatchwork pattern on the hills andmoors. Although such burning hasbeen carried out since at least the19th century, it has probablyincreased in intensity in recentdecades.

Rotational burning of heather moorland aboveCorgarff to encourage red grouse.

Sron na Larig Lodge shooting Lodge in the Monadhliath(recently demolished).

Stripes of burnt heather above Glen Clunie.

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FORESTRY PLANTATIONS

Period: From the 1750s; majorexpansion post-1919; recentexpansion of native woodplantations from 2000

Extent: Throughout

Reversibility: Irreversible (throughsoil changes, including groundpreparation)

The adding of trees to the landscapeis the greatest cause of landscapechange in the Highlands. Theecological conditions of the area aresuch that woodland would naturallybe of restricted distribution (lessthan 10% land cover), with thelandscape of hills and moors largelyopen as would be expected in this,the oligocratic phase, of aninterglacial.

‘Improving’ estate owners startedcreating plantations in the 1750s,although these were at first oflimited extent. The processaccelerated rapidly following thecreation of the Forestry Commissionin 1919, when there wasgovernment policy to create astrategic reserve of timber. In someareas whole upland farms wereplanted.

The commercial forests which havetransformed the landscape consistprimarily of non-native conifers,with Sitka spruce now the mainspecies planted.

A spruce plantation on heather moorland above Strathnairn,with extensive plantations in the background.

Ground preparation for tree planting causes majorlandscape change. Top: mounding above Inveralligin.

Bottom: ploughing a whole hillside on Dava Moor.

A new native woodland plantation aboveLoch Bad an Sgalaig in Wester Ross.

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THE ORIGINAL HYDRO-ELECTRIC SCHEMES

Period: 1895-1975

Extent: Throughout the Highlands

Reversibility: Irreversible owing tothe volume of concrete and draw-down zones

Construction of the first large-scalehydro-electricity scheme in Britainbegan in 1895 at Foyers to providepower for aluminium smelting.Thereafter large scale schemes wereconstructed for smelters inKinlochleven and Fort William.

With the formation of the NorthScotland Hydro-Electric Board in1943, an era of dam building began,so that by 1975 over half thecatchments of the Highlandspossessed large-scale hydroschemes.

Most of the easily exploitablecatchments have now beendeveloped, so that future hydro-electric schemes will be relativelysmall-scale.

The middle picture shows the barerock which appears when reservoirlevels are low.

Associated with the reservoirs aretracks, borrow-pits, tailings, pipesand power-houses. Most suchschemes also have a network ofsmaller dams, channels and pipes tofunnel water from the tributaries tothe main reservoirs.

The Ben Cruachan dam.

The drawdown zone around Loch Cluanie when waterlevels are low.

A modern Highland landscape north of Loch Tay showing ahydro pipe, tailings from a hydro tunnel and commercial

forestry plantations.

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AGRICULTURAL IMPROVEMENT

Period: For thousands of years, withmajor expansion ca.1950-1970

Extent: Fringes of hills and moorland

Reversibility: Reversible in the longterm: abandoned land can over timeregain a natural vegetation cover.Ditching can be irreversible if it leadsto erosion

Land has been taken in for agriculturefor as long as there has been croppingof cereals, grass and vegetables. In theHighlands away from the east coast,the area of arable land has only everbeen a very small percentage of thewhole landscape. This is because,except in favoured low altitude areas,climate and soils preclude arablefarming. It has been restricted to thevicinity of settlements, i.e. favouredcoastal areas, and the floors of certainglens /straths.

Many of the level areas of raisedbeaches and the flat-bottoms of theglens and straths which are nowagricultural land would originally haveconsisted of raised peat bogs. Thesehave disappeared through peatcutting, drainage and agriculturalimprovement.

Grant-aid has resulted in extensiveareas of moorland being converted topasture, particularly in the 1950s and1960s. It also resulted in patterns ofmoor grips (ditches) being ploughedeven in remote areas distant fromsettlements.

An area of improved pasture on Ashie Moor,south of Inverness

A ditch ploughed through blanket peat, a once common practicethroughout the UK uplands to improve grazing (moor-gripping).

Pasture created out of the raised bog of Mòine Mhòrsouth of Kilmartin.

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An eroding path above Bridge of Orchy.

Tracks from from ATV vehicles above Inverasdale.

An improved (repaired) path in Glen Coe.

Footpaths below the Northern Corries of the Cairngorms.

FOOTPATHS AND ATV ROUTES

Period: 1800s onwards

Extent: Throughout the Highlands

Reversibility: Reversible (unless thecause of major erosion)

Foot and pony paths into the highhills were first constructed on thesporting estates in the 1800s toprovide access for stalkers and theirponies.

With the increase in hill-walkingfrom the 1950s onwards, informalpaths began to develop in the hillsalong the popular walking routes.

These paths often become erodedowing to the wet climate and peatysoils. Of necessity, many have beenconverted to constructed footpaths.

With the advent of all terrainvehicles (ATVs) in the 1960s, andmore recently quadbikes, vehicleshave increasingly been taken intothe hills away from formal tracks.Their wheel marks are often visibleon the vegetation and they caninstigate erosion, particularly wherethe soils are soft and peaty (lowerpicture).

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HILL TRACKS

Period: Since Victorian times, butprimarily in the 20th century and onto the present day

Extent: Throughout the Highlands

Reversibility: Irreversible

Tracks designed to facilitatevehicular access have beenincreasing in extent throughout thehills and moors, even into theremotest areas. There are now fewplaces more than a mile or two froma track.

They have been built to provideaccess for farmers, estate workers,shooting clients and hydro-electricschemes. Additionally newcommercial forestry plantations,windfarms and masts come with anassociated networks of tracks. Theconstruction of modern tracks,particularly those designed to takeheavy construction traffic, can resultin major importation of hardcoreinto the area.

Although it is theoretically possibleto remove tracks and reinstate theoriginal landform, this is anexpensive operation and not alwayspossible in rough and steep terrain.

A hill track for grouse shooting in the Monadhliath.

A new track above Achnasheen.

A hill track for deer stalking in Coire Buidhebelow Ben Sgulaird, Argyll.

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PYLONS, TRANSMISSION LINESAND MASTS

Period: 1940s onwards (pylons);1990s onwards (mobile phonemasts)

Extent: Throughout, although phonemasts are primarily along transportcorridors

Reversibility: Reversible

Metal pylons came on the scene inthe 1940s with the advent of thefirst large-scale hydro-electricschemes.

Additionally there are numerouspower-lines throughout theHighlands carried by smaller woodenpoles, again dating from the firsthydro-electric power stations.

Although there have beencommunication masts on some hillssince the middle years of the 20thcentury, the advent of the mobilephone has resulted in masts beingbuilt throughout the Highlands.These are generally along the majorroads. Many masts have aconstructed access track.

Above Loch Cluanie.

Above Slochd.

Below Ben Cruachan.

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DOWNHILL SKI DEVELOPMENT

Period: 1955-1990

Extent: Five localities

Reversibility: Most aspectspotentially reversible

The first permanent ski tow wasbuilt in Glencoe in 1956, althoughskiing enthusiasts had being usingBen Lawers and other hills since theearly 20th century. Work started onbuilding the last ski centre, NevisRange, in 1988.

The ski centres are at The Lecht,Cairn Gorm, Glencoe (Mealla’Bhuiridh). Nevis Range (AonachMor) and Glenshee. As well as upliftfacilities, infrastructure includes carparks, buildings and snow fences.

Of necessity the ski centres are inmountain areas, and include thesixth highest mountain in Scotland(Cairn Gorm) and the eighth (AonachMor).

The Nevis Range ski area.

The car park at Cairn Gorm.

The Cairngorms ski area.

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WIND FARMS

Period: 2005 onwards

Extent: Throughout, although not inNational Parks and National ScenicAreas

Reversibility: The turbines arereversible (can be removed), but theconcrete foundations, access tracksand borrow pits are in effectirreversible

Windfarms are a characteristic ofthe 21st century. The tall turbinesare generally visible from multipleviewpoints although their visualimpact is reversible in that they canbe removed.

Their construction necessitates thecreation of a network of accesstracks, often of long distance. Theserequire large volumes of hardcore asfoundation, either won from localborrow pits or imported. Turbinefoundations require considerablevolumes of concrete (as did theoriginal hydro-electric schemes). It istheoretically possible to remove thetracks, concrete foundations andimported hardcore to reinstate theoriginal landform, but this is anexpensive operation and probablynot practical.

The Carraig Gheal wind farm west of Loch Awe.

The Farr wind farm, with associated tracks.

The Farr wind farm in the Monadhliath.

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NEW HYDRO-ELECTRICSCHEMES

Period: 2000 onwards

Extent: Throughout the Highlands

Reversibility: Can be reversible ornot

With the completion of the last ofthe major hydro-electric schemes inthe 1970s, there was a lull in theconstruction of new ones. In recentyears there has been a revival ofinterest. As most of the easilyexploitable catchments have beendeveloped, effort is nowconcentrated on pumped-storageschemes and smaller run-of-riverschemes.

The top picture shows a dam beingbuilt over moorland to form thereservoir for a pumped-storagescheme. The lower pictures shownew access tracks associated withthe creation of small run-of-riverschemes; other associatedinfrastructure will be a dam, pipeand small power-station.

Such run-of-river schemes arecurrently being built throughout theHighlands, including the remotestglens.

There are likely to be more of bothtypes of scheme, particularly run-of-river schemes. Currently pumpedstorage schemes are the only way totemporarily store electricity fromrenewable energy generation.A new run-of-river hydro scheme being built at Kingairloch.

One of the new run-of-river hydro schemes in Glen Fallochunder construction, within the Loch Lomond and The

Trossachs National Park.

The new Glendoe pumped storage scheme. This shows the damunder construction to create a high altitude reservoir

(over blanket peat).

A new scheme within the Wester Ross National Scenic Area.

33

An Ordnance Survey trig point in the Monadhliath.

A burn on Jura which has been deepened to improvethe fishing.

A scrape on a Monadhliath grouse moor built toencourage grouse.

ACCUMULATION OF SMALL-SCALE STRUCTURES

Period: 1800s onwards

Extent: Throughout

Reversibility: Reversible

Shieling sites date back hundreds ofyears, but their signs on thelandscape are slowly fading.

In the 1800s the Ordnance Surveybegan mapping the Highlands andconstructed huts at high altitudenear the main triangulation stations(Colby Camps), the remains of whichare still visible in some places. Smalltriangulation pillars (trig points) areare a common sight on summits.

Landowners sometimes take diggersinto the hills to restructure burnsand rivers to improve fishing,particularly canalisation and thedeepening of pools.

Grouse shooting estates can createlines of shooting butts and also digpools for grouse.

Other structures include cairns,signposts, notice boards andfootbridges.

A sign in the Cairngorms.

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Scottish Wild Land Group

Working to protect Scotland’s species, environment and landscapes

We campaign for:

� Protection and promotion of Scotland’s wild land� Safeguards against inappropriate wind farm and other developments� Environmentally-sensitive land and wildlife management� Planning controls on the spread of hill tracks� Restoration of rare and missing species and environments� Connection of habitats and protected areas to allow ecological recovery and species movements

We are Scotland’s oldest and only volunteer-run wild land charity

Join us today at www.swlg.org.uk

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The objects of the Group are:(a) To promote the conservation of wild land in Scotland;(b) To promote public awareness of the problems facing wild land in Scotland;(c) To promote and encourage the implementation of good planning policies;(d) To co-operate with other bodies to promote the foregoing objects.

Liathach by James Fenton