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collected methods / a cookbook 2003-2004

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>!<a change of speed, a change of style. a change of scene. with no regrets.

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>self_passage< is a long term method-based project in an attempt to create a field of democratic-productive consciousness and empowerment within the fashion system especially regarding the modes of production. The methods in this book should preferably be seen as a collection and be read with political glasses rather than fashion/aesthetic/environmental ones. It is a contribution to the critical discussion concerning the interpas-sive system of contemporary consumption.

For more information: www.selfpassage.org

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>A<

>B<

>C<

>D<

>E<

>F<

>G<

>H/I<

[March 2003] 07

[July 2003] 15

[Feb. 2004] 27

[May 2004] 41

[May 2004] 49

[Oct. 2004] 59

[Nov. 2004] 65

[Nov. 2004] 73

CHINOS SUMMER RE-DESIGN

TURK SHIRT RE-DESIGN

BLIZZARD SHOE RE-DESIGN

SHOE RE-LABEL

MESSENGER JACKET RE-DESIGN

RAINBOOT RE-WRAP

BELLY WARMER RE-DESIGN

appendix: UNTITLED METHODS

FOR PERFECT LOVERS

collected methods / a cookbook 2003-2004

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CHINOS SUMMER

RE-DESIGN

a method for recycling a pair of old chinos (or jeans) into a set of

summer urban uniform pants.

>A<

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>A<

1. take a pair of old marginalized pants. 2. unstitch the hem down by the foot

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>A<

3. cut off below the knee, unstitch both sides.

4. sew together the leg pieces so you get long ones.

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>A<

5. cut them diagonally from corner to corner and unstitch side seams up to under the pocket.

6. sew in the triangles. Adjust the length in the hem.

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>A<

7. cut slits in the back and hem. 8. side view.

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>A<

9. front view. 10. back view.

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11. and print something on the back!your beloved pants in the cut.

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TURK SHIRT RE-DESIGN

a method for recycling the usual male shirt into a unisex urban uniform for

information and identity combat.

>B<

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>B<

1. get two identical shirts, start working on one: cut off a 5cm from the sleeves.

2. hem up.

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>B<

3. make 3 strings of the surplus fabric (or from the other shirt).

4. sew one end to the armpit

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>B<

5. make an interior channel by the side seam, put the string in and close the channel.

6. cut the last string in half and sew one to the end of each channel.

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>B<

7. make straps (fitting the eyes) 8. sew together 4 (for the back)

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>B<

9. make 4 straps (for front) 10. remake front pocket, unstitch left half

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>B<

11. customize size for your cell phone, sew together.

12. put on front straps, about 10cm in from side seam.

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>B<

13. put on back ones (in level with fronts), about 10 in from side seam.

14. could look like this.

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>B<

15. make a postcard/flyer pocket (from front piece of other shirt) - with hole in for easy distribution.

16. put on back in an easy angle for comfort-able grasping.

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>B<

17. take back fabric from the other shirt, try out preferable size of the zip hood (could be tricky - take it easy). sew and hem.

18. sew top seam under the collar.

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>B<

19. a metamorphosis of desire. a second skin of the latest information...

20. a second skin of explicit anonymity.

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BLIZZARD SHOE RE-DESIGN

a method of remaking a pair of converse style shoes into blizzard safe rubber

coated urban survival boots.

>C<

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>C<

1. get a pair of converse style shoes, at least with the sole still OK.

2. get two old bicycle inner tubes, super glue (cyanoacrylate/japanese), scissors, knife, tape.

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>C<

3. cut off upper part (they shouldn’t be too stiff or high).

4. cut 20 long part of tube, split into two.

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>C<

5. glue over top part, replacing the lacing, try out so it gives nice fit to your foot.

6. cut 10 cm tube, cut up one side - glue on backside. start gluing on the sole side. work your way outwards, stretch the tube a little.

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>C<

7. make a new and patch beside the other on the side. start at sole, overlap other patch with 5-10 mm.

8. same thing on other side.

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>C<

9. make a new similar patch, cut diagonally and glue in same way.

10. looking something like this. watertight patches along edges with glue.

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>C<

11. repeat on other side. 12. cut two 30cm long pieces, cut up on one side, glue them together into one big piece, overlapping 5-10mm.

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>C<

13. this piece shall cover the whole upper side of the shoe, start gluing on the topside of the front.

14. tighten down on sides, work in small steps. strech over old shoe’s surface.

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>C<

15. cut up slits in front to patch. 16. tighten up over front in small steps, let the different parts lock over each other.

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>C<

17. cut the upper piece into a more soft and rounded shape.

18. tighten sides with glue.

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>C<

19. make a new strap over the top of the foot, but place it under the top piece.

20. cut away surplus material just along the bottom side of sole.

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>C<

21. glue a tube patch over front junction, cut up sides to fit tightly.

22. yes, finished shoe could look like this. now repeat on the other shoe.

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ready to fight any blizzard or killing look. now: - get out there! trespass! infiltrate!

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SHOE RE-LABEL

a method of re-labelling a pair of fancy shoes to be re-appropriated - defying

the advertised common narratives.

>D<

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>D<

1. get a pair of fancy shoes, preferably on sale.

2. tape some masking tape on a glossy sur-face for cutting (easy to take off again).

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>D<

3. draw the design you want on your shoes. 4. cut out parts to be colored.

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>D<

5. take off the tape from the cutting surface. 6. gently add the masked design onto the shoe. press along inner edges to make tape fit nicely (no paint flowing in under).

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>D<

7. mask rest of shoe 8. spray many thin layers.

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>D<

9. take off masking tape gently, save the cut-out design...

10. to be added on the other shoe (if you want the same) - repeat steps.

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11. don’t step into passive habit. try walking in my shoes!

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MESSENGER JACKET

RE-DESIGN

remaking of a smart jacket for urban messengers not left out in the cold.

>E<

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>E<

1. find a nice looking suit jacket, take off buttons.

2. unstitch outer pockets.

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>E<

3. looking something like this. 4. cut diagonally over sleeve fitting for 20cm zipper, leave a front hole as big as your wrist.

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>E<

5. hem edges first some 3mm, then add zip-per. get a nice fit at zippers ends.

6. looking like this (maybe zig-zag inner edge of zipper for better comfort).

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>E<

7. sew together the back slit partly. 8. cut away lower part of jacket front in a nice semi circle.

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>E<

9. fold the edges inwards, meeting the inner fabric.

10. so it looks like this.

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>E<

11. cut up sides to add a long zipper under each arm.

12. hem the edges some 3-4mm.

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>E<

13. be careful so the inner fabric also gets firmly fastened.

14. add zipper.

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>E<

15. add a zig-zag along edges for better comfort if zipper has rough edges.

16. add a long piece of velcro along inner side of the old button side of front.

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>E<

17. cut diagonal pieces of velcro and add on old button hole side. finished.an emissary of altered meaning.

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RAINBOOTRE-WRAP

making your rainboots resist not only the acid rain but also the killing gaze of the

hardcore fashionistas.

>F<

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>F<

1. get some rainboots, bicycle tube and pieces of velcro.

2. cut the tube open and then split it two long pieces.

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>F<

3. open the rainboots in the front to the ankle.

4. fold the tube piece and glue the middle under the sole with epoxy.

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>F<

5. attach velcro on one end of the tube. 6. and also on the other end of the velcro.

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>F<

7. a simple remake - boots like new. 8. wrap up tightly around the ankles, - repel - resist!!

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BELLY WARMER RE-DESIGN

a method of remaking an old wool sweater into a thermal belly warmer for all your shirts

that fashion now condemned too short.

>G<

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>G<

1. get an old sweater, preferably the one with holes on the elbows.

2. cut out the center piece (the other parts you can recycle into other nice things).

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>G<

3. fold both front and back pieces in half and cut out a nice curve on one and a straight form from the other.

4. hem 1 cm up and down on both pieces. use a 3-step zig-zag to make seams stretch.

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>G<

5. sew together the pieces with an external zig-zag seam.

6. cut apart the bigger back piece a little asymmetric, about 5 cm from center.

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>G<

7. hem the edges. 8. attach one long piece of velcro along the top, from edge to side seam.

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>G<

9. take four smaller pieces of velcro and add on other side.

10. looking something like this.

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11. don’t let fashion leave you out in the cold.

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appendix:

UNTITLED METHODS FOR PERFECT LOVERS

(a lovers cookbook)

>H/I<

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UNTITLED(perfect dancers)

>H/I<

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>H/I<

2. pin them together at the bottom of the legs, front to front.

1. take one pair of trousers each that you enjoy dancing in.

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>H/I<

3. start with a close zig-zag, and then use a straight seam sewing the pieces together.

4. looking like this at the start.

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>H/I<

5. and also in the end of the seam. 6. follow my footsteps.

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UNTITLED(perfect huggers)

>H/I<

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>H/I<

2. put the sleeves on top of each other. one’s top-side facing the others bottom-side.

1. take your two favourite shirts.

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>H/I<

3. pin them together at least 5 cm, but regarding on the size of the sleeves.

4. sew together, start and finish with zig-zag to make the seam strong.

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>H/I<

5. looking someting like this. 6. take my hand, i’ll take you to the promised land.

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>self_passage< is a project by >wronsov< a.k.a. Otto von Busch

copyleft by >wronsov< Jan. 2005

©

feel free to photocopy!

www.selfpassage.org

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>!<