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BY KAY WEST PHOTOS BY RON MANVILLE

THE LATE JANUARY SNOWSTORM in Nashville had

closed schools for the day, cancelled university classes andsporting events, emptied grocery shelves and streets. But at 360

Wine Ba r B istro, it wa s bu siness as usual on this mid-week night.

Most of the 10 bar stools were occupied, the intimate dining room

was full, engaging bar manager Ashley Thompson was mixing

cocktails, the smiling hostess smoothly steered parties to their

tables, and waiters were performing the graceful choreography

of skilled service over a pleasantly-modulated audio track of

conversation, laughter and stemware clinking in a happy toast to

the company of friends and anticipation of the comforting warmth

of good food and fine wine on a cold winters night.

This portrait of the luminous manifestation of 360 as it is today

would be incomplete without referencing its origin as the Nashville

location of The Grape, an Atlanta-headquartered small chain

of contemporary wine bars. When Nick Jacobson and his then-part-ner Joe Gordy opened The Grape in August 2005 in the 60s-era

shopping center turned into Spaces, Jacobson says their decision to

open a franchise of an existing operation was sound. We had never

been in the restaurant business and we had a lot to learn. Wine bars

were very popular in other cities and Nashville was kind of behind

the curve. We believed The Grape was a good business move.With the surprising paucity of good, contemporary, upscale

restaurants in one of Nashvilles wealthiest areas, The Grape

held its own as a neighborhood watering holethough only for

people who drank wine, as Grape policy forbid serving anything

else. Consequently, The Grape was popular with the ladies, as much

for its wine as for its petite plates of food, many of which didnt seem

to actually be cooked as heated. (The menu was also directed by the

corporate office.)

As Jacobson became more comfortable running a restaurant, the

sophisticated and well-traveled entrepreneur became less com-

fortable with the concept of The Grape; in November 2007 he

made a break for it and declared independence.

We renamed the restaurant 360, because that was our goal and

our vision, Jacobson says, who has been the sole owner for sometime. But for the first few months, it was just a 180.

The determined but deliberately-paced evolution into a full-

service restaurant took an important leap forward with the hiring of

chef John David Crow in January 2008. The Seattle transplant

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taste

steered the kitchen into new and exciting culinary terrain, and word

spread beyond 37205. After Crow flew back to the Northwest, three sub-

sequent chefs took a turn with the 360 turnaround.

With pros in the kitchen, Jacobson focused on the front of the house,

hiring Brett Allenwell known from his days at F. Scotts and Wild Boaras

director of operations. Sharing wine director duties, Allen and Jacobson first

booted the Grape list, and then set about building a new cellar. Today, 360

offers over 50 wines by the glass and nearly 700 wines on their list, with

an inclination towards France, Italy and California. Oenophiles will delight in

perusing the leather bound book of more than 60 pages; more casual imbibers

might want to scroll through in advance online. Or put your selection in the

hands of Allen or Jacobson who will be happy to allay your wine anxiety.

Concurrent with the kitchen and beverage changes, the interior of 360

was also undergoing a transformation. My memory of The Grapes first

incarnation is a room where Harold Went Wild with His Purple Crayon, to

paraphrase the childrens book. Everything from the walls to the menus to the

napkins was a shade of the dramatic color, as if Prince had unfurled his satin

cape over every surface. The re-do, says Jacobson, has been in increments, so

that long-time customers hardly notice. But coming into 360 after nearly fiveyears away, I felt the love for this sexy and sultry room. Tones are neutral and

subdued, candle-lit tables are swathed in thick white linen, brushed steel

chandeliers drop from the ceiling, tasteful art adorns the walls that are not

covered by floor-to-ceiling honey-colored wooden wine racks, a successful

marriage of form and function. The floor plan is essentially the same, but the

sole survivor of the original dcor is the cushy amethyst slip-covered club

chairs that wrap diners in a sensuous embrace.

Its Chef Sal Avila that seals the deal that places 360 Wine Bar Bistro on

the select list of Nashvilles best restaurants. Avila went to culinary school and

spent much of his formative cooking years in Northern California, particu-

larly the Bay area. Though he is of Mexican heritage, most of his influences

are from Italian and French kitchens, and he cites Chef Robert Holt at the

award-winning Cetralla restaurant in Half Moon Bay, Cali. as his first mentor.

In 2008, Avila came to Nashville and landed a place as Tandy Wilsons

pizzaiolo at City House before going back to Oakland to work with Chef Holt

at Marzano. In July 2009, he came back to City House, an assignment cut

short by the carpel tunnel syndrome he developed working the dough.

Simultaneous with Avila looking for another gig, Jacobson was looking for

a new chef, and through his friend and City House devotee Hoyt Hill, an

introduction was made, an audition in Jacobsons home was passed with

flying colors, and Avila had the job. I felt like we had hit a plateau, says

Jacobson. We wanted to revitalize the menu, rev up our game.

Avila hit the ground running, making changes almost immediately and in

three weeks, most of the menu was his. Most notably, the crab appetizer.

There were a few things Nick wanted to keepthe Bistro Burger, the

Steak Frites and the crab cakes. I was okay with the burger and the steak,

but not crab cakes. Everybody has crab cakes. I wanted to give our dinerssomething different.

Avilas interpretation is presented as a linear progression of color and

flavor on a long narrow plate, starting with a round of cleanly-flavored crab

salad, shaved green apple, persimmon gazpacho, halved purple grapes and

toasted Marcona almonds.

Grilled Austrailian leg of lamb

Director of Operations Brett Allen, Chef Sal Avila,owner Nick Jacobson, pastrychef Brandi Collinsand barmanager Ashley Thompson

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Though the crab salad might stick around for a while, diners shouldnt get too attachedto any one item; Avila changes the menu frequently, according to whats available and what

he wants to cook. Tandy was my other primary mentor. He really taught me to pay attention

to what I wanted to taste.

Lesson learned: The intensely personal nature of Avilas cooking is infused with passion

and respect for the true properties of the ingredients and character of the food. Every plate

that came out of the kitchen the night we dined felt touched by the chefs hands.

A trio of green salads and the crab represent the light side of a menu of robust and

rustic dishes that mine the earthy flavors and simple cooking methods of the Mediterranean.

Among the plates the circled our table of four the night we visited were Porcini Arancinistuffed fried rice balls that are a staple of Italian home cookinganchored in a thick pool of

fennel ragu; a grilled tentacle of octopus with white beans, roasted peppers and Spanish

sausage; sea trout with the crispy pan-friend Brussels sprouts that will convert avowed

sprouts-haters; exquisitely flavorful and juicy grilled Australian leg of lamb, sliced and fanned

over sauteed greens and a fresh-made pasta from Tom Lazzarolis Germantown store, paired

with a meaty ragu of shredded beef cheek and pancetta. With such bold culinary statements,

Avila has in short time cooked his way into Nashvilles best chefs club.

Pastry chef Brandi Collins also brings her A game to breads and desserts, and the

divine Mexican Chocolate Souffle with Salted Caramel Anglaise and Grey Salt extends theafter-glow of an evening at 360.

Nick Jacobson is justifiably proud of the complete turnaround he has directed and

produced at 360 Wine Bar Bistro, but hes not satisfied with being the best restaurant in the

neighborhood, or one of the best in town. With confidence and conviction, he states, I want

to be the best restaurant in Nashville.

360 WINE BAR BISTRO

6000 Highway 100(615) 353-5604360bistro.com

THE DISH: Cold Dungeness Crab Salad ($14); SteamedPrince Edward Island Mussels ($15); House Made RicottaGnocchi ($13); Tasmanian Sea Trout ($29); GrilledAustralian Leg of Lamb ($28); Original 360 Bistro Burger($15); Mexican Chocolate Souffle ($19); White ChocolateEmpanadas ($7); Artisan Cheese Trio ($16).

THE BAR: Specialty seasonal cocktails and after dinner

desert cocktails; full inventory of premium and selectspirits; domestic, imported and high gravity beer; 360 hasthe Cruvinet system behind the bar that uses nitrogen tocreate a bottle vacuum and maintains the integrity ofwines served by the glass; nearly 700 vintages on theextensive list, and a selection of five flights, called 360s.

The Noise: Pleasant, subdued and conducive toconversation.

The Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 11a.m.-midnight; Sun. 5 -9 p.m.

PARKING: Large parking lot

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

CREDIT CARDS: All major

ColdCrabSalad