Fitting Guide for Defender 300tdi

Remove the oil pipe from the master pumpRemove inspection lidRemove the clutch master pump(You can keep the old oil pipe if you want by tucking it under and maybe use something to tie it / or remove it totally)Unscrew the bolt from the clutch pedal unit

Clutch pedal box bolt must be unscrewed, so the pedal can have a full travelYou can feel the back of the bolt by putting your finger from the inside of the vehicle(back of the clutch pedal) see photos belowThe pedal must be able to travel the maximum

Fixing main Bracket

There are 2 Bolts and 2 Nuts, fix them to the clutch pedalbox where the master pump went. To reach the bottom bolt and nut you will need to use one ring spanner from the slot of the right hand side of the bracket and the otherside can be accessed from the inspection slot

Diverter - Directional rod - Main bracket bolt - Clevis pins - Split pins

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Send the rod through this way (see the first photo, then lift it from the other side, then fit the diverter to the rod

Very important that the correct side of the diverter is fitted. Insert the clevispin through and also lock the clevis pin with the split pin

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Air cleaner bracket

Open the 2 air cleaner brackets and move the air cleaner hosing to the side. then remove the 2 circular brackets from the engine with the rubber bushes. then fit the new bracket to the engine with the bushes at the bottom of the bracket( where the bushed use to go) then fit the 2 circular brackets to the new bracket like the photo. then re fix the air cleaner to the bracket.

When Fixing the circular brackets to the new plate , fit one circular bracket with onebush. like the photo,then the other side witha bolt and nut. then the other circular bracket 2 bolts and nuts.the remaining 3 bushes can be fitted to the engine plate first the the new plate with the 2 circular brackets fitted can be fitted like the photo above.

Align all parts and send the main bracket bolt through the bracket (send it from the passenger side) then screw the 1st nut leaving a gap of 1mm from the bracket, then screw the 2nd nut up to the other nutThen hold the 1st nut with a spannerthen tighten the 2nd nut with anotherspanner and lock itThen move the diverter to see if it moves freely without any resistanceSend the diverter rod though the pedal hole then screw the nut and then tighten it (See the last Photo)!!!! !

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Fixing the Red Servo and Pump

Look at the first photo you need to screw the U-connector end piece to the back of the servo.Then you need to place the servo to the main bracket (3rd photo) but do not bolt itMake sure itʼs in its correct place, then when you look at the U-connector of the servo the 2 holes (the U-connector hole and the diverter hole) must align (like the 2nd photo)You should be able to move the clevis pin in and out easilyWhen all is inline fix and tighten the 4 bolts of the servo back bracket to main bracket....Now when you press the clutch the front rod of the servo must come out

Remove the rod which comes from the back of the master pump by removing the circular clip then refix the circular clip back to the master pump, also remove the rubber Now setting the front rod of the servo. You must make sure that the front rod of the servo is not pushing the clutch master pump when its not being pressed, so you must leave a gap of 1mm maximum otherwise you will have too much play on the clutch pedalThe distance between the two ends ideally will be less than 1mm. By placing the master pump on the servo you can see if itʼs having excess play/space or gapThen fit the master pump to the servo and tighten the 2 nuts

Fitting the oil pipe

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Place 2 washers either side of the oil pipe adaptor end. And send the banjo bolt through the washers and adaptor end and screw it to the master pump, but do not fully tighten yetScrew the Short teflon pipe one end to the adaptor, the other end to the other pipe which come from the slave cylinder side, make sure the pipe that come from the slave cylinder fixes to the main bracket.Once the pipes are all aligned tighten them all

Vacuum Tank - Fitting

Remove top wing access point, remove the two bolts on the side of the tank (and keep them safe). Send the tank through the opening with the direction of the two connecting points towards the dash board. (See photo top middle). Then once the tank is inside the wing send the tank forwards, towards the front headlight Check to make sure that the two nuts on the side of the tank face the engine. To look as it does in the photo top rightThe two brackets which connects the tank to the wing are fitted as follows:

Remove the two nuts from the steering fluid bottle, this will give you access to the tank Take the bracket with three holes this fits the nut that is towards the headlight end. The single hole fits the tank, but do not fully tighten at this stage. The other two holes have to fit onto the steering fluid bottle bracket.The two nuts from the steering fluid bracket go through the tank bracket and through the body as it was before. At this stage you can see how the bracket fits. Remove the steering fluid holder again and go and tighten the single nut at the tank endNow, re-fix the brake fluid bracket and fix the nuts, but do not tighten fullyTake the other bracket, with two holes, fix one side to the tank (see photo). It should fit like the photo. And the other side to the wing see last photoThen tighten all nuts

Piping diagram

There are a few methods depending on the status of your vehicle. But you must follow the principles of the diagram. See one method below, which is the one we use:

Remove the vacuum pipe which comes from the vacuum pump totally, but leaving the one-way valve on the brake servo. Take the new vacuum pipes which is fixed to a T connector, take the longest pipe side and fit it to the vacuum tank. Take the other side and fix it to the red servo and for the final step take the shorter and last side to the brake servo one-way valve and fix it. Take the pipe which comes from the vacuum tank and fix it to the vacuum pump.

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