2

3

4

Heirloom sewing is exquisite...fine fabrics, delicate, detailed stitches; and

beautiful. The purpose of this book is to teach the lovely stitches that can be

made by machine, replicating the true heirloom look, and to showcase techniques

that can then be applied to the making of baby dresses, wedding gowns, and

special occasion outfits, and to add a touch of femininity to other items in a

fraction of the time it took our ancestors to make a garment.

In sewing heirloom you will apply heirloom techniques on the fabric first, and

then cut out the pattern. You will be using lighter weight fabrics, special sewing

machine feet, starch and stabilizers, as you complete a lot of precision details.

Heirloom sewing is not difficult once you know the stitches and procedures, but it

takes time, patience, and skill at the machine. The end result is well worth the

time and effort to learn the techniques!

5

© 2006 Bunkhouse Books

No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by

any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any

other information storage and retrieval system, without the written permission of

the publisher, with this exception: Bunkhouse Books grants permission to

photocopy all pattern sheets for purchasers’ personal use.

Published and Distributed by:

Bunkhouse Books JoAnn Gagnon

Toll Free (800) 337-8845

www.bunkhousesewing.com

Designed and Written by: JoAnn Gagnon

Corrie Gagnon Berneking

Illustrated by: Kelli Voth

6

Fabrics, Laces, and Supplies:

Sewing Supplies 7

Rotary Cutting Supplies 9

Starching Fabrics 9

Fabrics, Laces, and Threads 11

Stabilizers 11

Solving Sewing Machine Problems 22

Techniques:

Rotary Cutting 10

Clipping Curves and Points 13

How to Tie a Square Knot 13

Pintucks 14

Lace Insertion 16

Pin Stitching 16

Puffing 17

Fancy Machine Stitches 17

Lace Shaping 18

Joining Fabric & Laces 19

Sharks Teeth 21

Turned Edge Appliqué 23

Machine Shell Stitching 24

Seam Finishes 24

Making Tucks 48

Stitch-In-The-Ditch 56

Topstitching 56

Sewing on a Button 58

Making Buttonholes 55

Gathering Fabric 62

Piping a Seam 63

Hand Embroidery Stitches 94

Embroidery Designs 97

Size Charts:

Baby Sizes 64

Girls Sizes 64

Misses Sizes 64

Projects:

1. Fancy Gift Bag 25

2. Sweet Lavender Sachet 26

3. Dressy Half Slip 27

4. Classy Straight Skirt 28

5. Exquisite Sampler Quilt 29

..Block 1 32

..Block 2 34

..Block 3 37

..Block 4 38

..Block 5 40

..Block 6 41

..Block 7 43

..Block 8 46

..Block 9 47

..Sashing 51

..Sashing Squares 52

..Completing the Top 53

..Outside Ruffle 54

..Layering 55

..Quilting 57

6. Pretty Eyeglass Case 45

7. Simple Bookmarks 55

8. Old Fashioned Pillow 60

9. Sweet Baby Dress 65

10. Frilly Socks 68

11. Special Occasion Dress 69

12. Dainty Baby Slip 74

13. Darling Pinafore 75

14. Cute Baby Bonnet 78

15. Pretty Headband 79

16. Ribbon Bow 79

17. Lacy Panties 80

18. Nifty Booties 83

19. Lovely Shrug 85

20. Beautiful Tiered Skirt 87

21. Lacy Blouse 89

22. Embroidered Tea Cozy 90

23. Tea Time Table Topper 92

24. Matching Napkins 93

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7

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There are a few specialty sewing supplies you will want to purchase and use in

heirloom sewing. They will all be needed to complete the projects in this book.

Double Needle - stitches two rows of threads at once Use a 2.0 width for

making pintucks on projects in this book.

Wing Needle - a wing needle is very wide at the “eye” and has a

thicker than normal shank. It will spread the fibers as it goes

through the fabric and leaves a ‘hole” when the needle passes

through several times. Use for entredeux and pinstitching.

Edge Joining foot - butts and stitches two finished edges together

precisely and evenly. You will use this foot for stitching laces

together.

Open Toed Foot - Use this foot to see what you’re stitching! Great for

appliqué and fancy machine stitches.

Pintuck Foot - This foot has several grooves (3, 5, or 7) under the

bottom of the foot. The groove directly under the needle allows

room for the fabric to be taken up into a pintuck. The other

grooves ensure even spacing between pintucks when a

previously stitched pintuck is put under another groove.

Walking Foot –a special machine presser foot that feeds from the top.

Great for thick and slick fabrics.

Wonder Tape - double sided sticky tape that can be stitched through,

then washes away.

Shape ’N Press Board - 24” X 28” rectangular shaped ‘ironing board’

with grid marks and shaped templates (hearts, teardrops,

diamonds, loops, scallops) for easy lace shaping.

Spray Starch - adds body to fabrics. You will use this on your batiste

for all your projects.

8

Dressmaking Shears - These shears can be identified because

one handle is larger than the other. They have longer, stronger

blades than scissors, and will be used primarily for cutting fabric.

Cutting paper with your shears will dull the blade.

4” Rounded End Pocket Scissors - These scissors are used to

trim the fabric out from behind lace. The blunt point prevents

you from catching your lace and cutting it with the scissor points.

Duck Bill Scissors - These nifty scissors have bent handles and a

flat D shaped blade. They allow you to lay your fabric flat to trim

away from stitching without cutting the wrong fabric or lace.

Glass Head Pins - Pins should have glass heads. In heirloom

sewing you will be pressing over the pins. Glass heads don’t

melt! They should be fine, sharp and rustproof so they won’t

damage your fabric.

Washout Marking Pen - This works well on heirloom fabrics and other

light colors. The pen writes in blue ink, which remains until you

rinse it away with water.

Seam Gauge - This is a 6” metal ruler with a plastic, movable piece,

used to keep distances even when using in different applications.

Seam Ripper - Use to remove unwanted stitches. It has a point that

will go under the stitched thread. As you push it under, its sharp

edge cuts the thread. You need to be extra careful not to

accidentally cut your fabric threads.

Wash Away Basting Thread - This thread is water soluble and helps

you avoid the frustration of removing basting stitches. It

dissolves easily in water and is wonderful for machine and hand

basting. We will be using it for turned edge appliqué projects.

Iron - It’s ideal to have an iron that can be used either with steam or

dry. You will be using a steam iron on all the projects

in this book. Always turn off and unplug an iron when you are

finished with your sewing for the day.

9

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Accuracy in cutting is essential for success with quilting and heirloom projects. The rotary

cutting supplies below help you cut precisely and make perfect squares. There are many

specialty shapes and sizes, but you can complete most projects with these basics:

Quilters Square - This is a see through square with 1 inch pieced grid

lines. You will use it to straighten project blocks

into perfect squares. Squares come in several sizes…..I prefer the

12 1/2” X 12 1/2” size, it can be used with smaller sizes as well.

Quilters Ruler - These rulers provide a straight edge to run the

rotary cutter along, and are used in many ways similar to a

tape measure. They come in several sizes…..I find the 6” X 24”

size most versatile.

Matt Board - This cutting board protects your table. Most have a

plain side and a gridded side to them. They are made to be

used with the rotary cutter, and are self-healing after use.

Cutting is much easier on a larger board.

Rotary Cutter - This tool makes cutting fast and fun. A very sharp,

round blade cuts fabric in open position. For safety, the blade

locks in closed position. Most have ergonomically designed

handles for comfort, and can be used with either the right or left

hand.

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Spray starch is used extensively on your fabrics for heirloom sewing.

It makes the fabric easier to work with by adding sizing,

and helps to prevent it from bunching when stitching.

You’ll want to keep the can a distance of 12” - 14” away from your

fabric when spraying. Spray smoothly and apply a thin coat.

Press the top side dry, and then apply to the back side. It is much

better to apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat. Your

fabric must be dry before marking or stitching.

Too much starch can turn your fabric brown in spots. Not to worry - it will washout with

water. If you do not have a Teflon coated iron, you will want to cool your iron and clean the

sole plate periodically. Starch can build up on it, too, and the resulting build-up can transfer to

your fabric.

10

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

[Éã gÉ háx g{x eÉàtÜç VâààxÜ TÇw `tàà[Éã gÉ háx g{x eÉàtÜç VâààxÜ TÇw `tàà[Éã gÉ háx g{x eÉàtÜç VâààxÜ TÇw `tàà[Éã gÉ háx g{x eÉàtÜç VâààxÜ TÇw `tàà Using a Rotary Cutter and Matt Board:

• Fold your fabric lengthwise, on the fold, selvages

together.

• Place your fabric onto your rotary matt with the

selvages next to you and the fold away from you.

The length of your fabric runs side to side.

• Place the edge of a quilters square on the fold line,

near the cut edge.

• Place the longer quilters ruler next to it as shown

in Diagram 1.

• Hold the ruler in position with your left hand,

fingers spread.

• Pick up the rotary cutter with your right hand, and

expose the blade. Hold it straight up, and following

the edge of the longer quilters ruler, slowly apply a

small amount of pressure to the cutter, trimming your

fabric so it is perfectly “squared” (2, 3).

• If you are making a long cut, you may pause with your

cutter, and move your left hand fingers farther up the

ruler to stabilize your cutting edge. (4).

• Always roll the cutter away from you, and be sure to

keep your fingers out of the way!

• If you find that the ruler moves on you, you may want

to purchase some small grips to stick on the underside

of your ruler to grip to the fabric.

• Reverse this process if you are left-handed.

Cutting Strips:

• Most fabric cuts will be made from selvage to selvage.

This is why it is important to begin with a perfectly

straight, “squared” strip.

• Once your fabric has been “squared”, you may now

cut straight lengths of fabric from this edge.

• Your ruler has see-through grid marks. If you would

like to cut a 4” wide strip, line up the 4” line on the

ruler with the trimmed edge of fabric. Using the

rotary cutter, cut along the edge of the ruler, using

your left hand to hold the ruler in place.

• You may want to periodically open up your fabric to

check that the strip is still straight. If not, re-square

your fabric (5).

• Cutting through several thicknesses at once does

save time, but you will be compromising accuracy

In the process. I limit myself to 4 thickness of

cotton fabric.

Straight like this.

Not like this.

11

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Heirloom Sewing, also called French Sewing by machine, encompasses many embellishing

techniques unique to very fine, lightweight, cotton fabrics. You should purchase the best quality

fabrics and laces you can afford. Better quality is easier to sew with and will look better when

you are finished. Some of the most popular and commonly available fabrics include:

• Swiss Batiste - 100% cotton fabric, lightweight, made in Switzerland. I use Swiss Batiste for

smaller items and for those that will become true heirlooms to be passed on.

• Symphony Broadcloth - polyester/cotton blend, lightweight. I generally purchase this fabric

for garments. Though this blend is not truly an heirloom fabric, I appreciate that it will not

wrinkle. When I put this much time into a fancy dress, I want to see it worn...and people in

general don’t like to press.

• Linens - Handkerchiefs, tablecloths, and articles that need a little heavier weights. It does

wrinkle, so is great for flat items that are easily pressed.

• Organdy - Is a sheer, can be embroidered on, and is nice for collars.

Heirloom Fabrics

Heirloom Laces

Insertion Lace - Has two straight edges, solid lace pattern in the middle, and

must be joined on both edges.

Beading Lace - Has two straight edges. This lace has holes to thread ribbon

through it. It must be joined on both edges.

Edging Lace - Has one straight edge, and one uneven edge. It is used as an outside edge finish, and can lay flat or be gathered.

Entredeux - Has two fabric edges. May be sewn to fabric, or trimmed

and joined to lace.

For true heirloom, always use 100% cotton laces. Nylon and polyester laces in general are not

what you want to use. They can’t take the heat of an iron, don’t last as long, and are stiff for

shaping.

Threads For Heirloom Sewing

We always try to match all our notions to our fabrics. Cotton thread is the best. You will use a

finer, lighter weight thread for batiste to match the finer, lighter weight threads in the fabric. I

personally use Coats & Clarks Extra Fine because of the availability. Mettler 60 weight, 2 ply,

Art. 240 works well, also.

12

You will be working with fine laces and lightweight fabrics. Stabilizers are

required for heirloom sewing to prevent your fabrics from being caught up and

chewed by your machine. They also help to eliminate puckering, stretching and

distortion of stitches. You will want to work a sample before starting your

project to see that you have the right stabilizer for the job. Here is a brief

overview and names of a few of the different stabilizers I have used.

Tear Away • Stitch and Ditch Stabilizer - my personal favorite. I use it for all my lightweight heirloom

sewing. It is the lightest weight stabilizer that I know of. It tears off easily after your

stitching has been completed, and comes in 8” and 3” widths. Acid neutral, it is safe with

all your delicate fabrics. I have found a very satisfactory product similar in weight and

texture to Stitch and Ditch that you can purchase inexpensively from your doctor....the

paper from the exam table! Ask if they will give or sell you a roll.

• Sulky Tear Easy - another soft, lightweight stabilizer. I don’t find this one to tear away as

easily and completely as Stitch and Ditch, and it is a bit more expensive.

Wash Away

• Sulky Solvy - One advantage to wash away stabilizers is that they leave no extra thickness

or bulk. They simply disappear when put into warm water. Solvy is a semi-transparent

plastic film used for stabilizing, monogramming and machine embroidery. It is sold with

full instructions on its use. It can be used on top of or underneath your fabric. I find that it

takes several soakings to dissolve. Your fabric becomes stiff if it is not totally dissolved.

• Sulky Fabri Solvy - This is actually a fabric that washes away nicely. It is lightweight, and

can be used for machine embroidery or stitching.

Cut Away • Cut away stabilizers become a permanent part of your project. You simply trim them next

to your stitching. They are not generally used on heirloom sewing projects. They are mid

to heavier weight and are mainly used in machine embroidery, appliqués and

monogramming. They are sold with full instructions enclosed.

Sticky

• Sulky Sticky - is used primarily for machine embroidery. It holds your fabric without

having to hoop it, and then tears away.

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13

You will need to know how to clip and notch seams for turning on several

projects. Below are the basic guidelines on what to do where.

Clipping Techniques for curves:

• The purpose of clipping and trimming your curved seam lines is to make your fabric lay flat

after it is turned and pressed.

• Clipping means taking short “snips” with the scissors into the seam line. You will snip

straight into, but not through the stitching on inside curves. Be careful.

• On outside curves, you will actually notch the fabric, so that when it is turned, there will not

be too much fullness on the seam for the fabric to lay flat. You will again snip into, but not

through the stitching, this time at an angle, using 2 snips to make a cut out V shape.

Clipping Corners:

• You also need to eliminate extra fabric when an outside corner is turned. This time you will

actually be clipping clear across the corner, at a 45’ angle, being careful not to clip your

threads.

• Simply clip into an inside corner, but not through your stitching.

If you accidentally clip the thread in your stitching, re-stitch over the top of your first stitching

prior to turning.

Notch outside curves Clip inside curves

Clip across

outside corners

Clip into inside

corners

VâÜäxá tÇw cÉ|ÇàáVâÜäxá tÇw cÉ|ÇàáVâÜäxá tÇw cÉ|ÇàáVâÜäxá tÇw cÉ|Çàá

[Éã àÉ g|x t fÖâtÜx ^ÇÉà[Éã àÉ g|x t fÖâtÜx ^ÇÉà[Éã àÉ g|x t fÖâtÜx ^ÇÉà[Éã àÉ g|x t fÖâtÜx ^ÇÉà • Hold A in your left hand and cross over B (right hand).

• Wrap A once to the right around B, just like the first step in tying your

shoelace (1).

• Cross A over B again.

• Wrap A to the left around B (2).

• Pull the free ends to tighten the knot.

• Remember it this way: Left over right and under;

right over left and under.

1.

2.

14

c|Çàâv~ác|Çàâv~ác|Çàâv~ác|Çàâv~á Pintucks make a beautiful addition to garments and heirloom sewing projects.

Pintuck presser feet are available for most machines, and make stitching

pintucks quick, easy, and effortless! Three items are essential for success in

making pintucks.

The Pintuck Presser Foot - Has several grooves (3, 5, or 7)

under the bottom of the foot. The groove directly under

the needle allows room for the fabric to be taken up into a

pintuck. The other grooves ensure even spacing between

pintucks when a previously stitched pintuck is put under

another groove.

The Double Needle - Thread your machine using

two spools of thread, making sure one thread goes on each side

of the tension disc, and then run a thread through each

needle. Your bobbin stays the same. The bobbin will

catch both threads, pulling them together to create the

tuck. Double needles come in different sizes. The wider

the needles, the deeper the pintuck. I find that a number

2.0 double needle makes a very nice pintuck on batiste fabric for

heirloom sewing projects.

Spray Starch - Spray the starch onto your fabric and press

dry to stiffen the fabric and give a crisp pintuck that

does not pucker.

Straight Pintucks

• Spray your fabric with spray starch. Press until dry.

• Mark with a washout marking pen, exactly where you

want your first row to be placed. Mark your center

pintuck first and work out from both sides.

• Insert double needle and thread machine with 2 spools

of thread. Be sure threads go on each side of tension disc.

• Put pintuck foot onto your machine.

• Change upper thread tension to about 5—6. Use a

stitch length of about 1.5 - 2.0. Always practice first

to make sure that these are the correct adjustments for

your machine.

• Stitch your first row.

• Turn your fabric around so you will be stitching in the

opposite direction. Place the first stitched row into an

outer groove on your foot, and use it as a guide for stitching

the next row.

• Stitch the next row on the other side of the center.

15

• Continue stitching, working from side to side, and

turning your fabric in opposite directions for stitching,

until you have completed as many rows as you desire.

• Changing stitching directions will keep your fabric even,

and prevent it from stretching out of shape.

• For the most pleasing look, always stitch an uneven

number of pintucks within a group...3,5, or 7.

Curved Pintucks

• Starch fabric well.

• With washout marking pen, draw lines where you want the

pintucks to be.

• Stitch, following the lines. Because you will be crossing

different grain lines when stitching a curve, stitching

at a faster than normal speed, as well as keeping a steady

speed, will help to keep the amount of fabric taken up into

the pintuck more even.

Joining both ends of a pintuck

• Begin stitching your pintuck as you normally would, keeping

the tail threads in back of your presser foot.

• Stop stitching about 3” before you are ready to meet your

beginning stitching.

• Pull the beginning top threads through to the back side by

pulling on the bobbin thread until the top loops show, and

then pulling these loops through to the backside.

• With a square knot (page 10), tie all three threads together.

• Trim threads to 1/4” long.

• Now stitch directly over your first stitching, overlapping

about 1/2 inch.

• Pull your ending threads through to the wrong side; tie a

square knot and trim threads to 1/4”.

• If you are doing several rows of pintucks, move your

starting and stopping spot several inches away from the

first one.

• Your overlap should not show from the right side if you

follow the directions above.

Pintuck points/corners

• If you need to turn a corner, put your needle in down

position, raise the presser foot, and twist your fabric to the

new direction.

• Begin stitching once again. The ‘pucker’ will press out later.

16

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Lace inserted into the design of a garment or article adds a touch of femininity,

elegance and beauty. Inserting lace is really quite simple.

• Press your lace and starch the fabric you will be

inserting it into.

• Lay the lace in exact position. Pin down the

middle to hold in position.

• Place stabilizer under the area to be stitched.

• Stitch down both sides of the lace, in the same

direction.

--Use a short, narrow zigzag stitch or

--If you have access to a newer machine, use

the pinstitch, which is an heirloom machine

stitch which looks similar to a blanket stitch.

A wing needle is recommended for pinstitching.

• Do not backstitch. Tie the ends together and trim.

• Tear away the stabilizer on the back.

• Carefully trim out the fabric from behind the lace,

using pocket scissors.

c|Ç fà|àv{|Çzc|Ç fà|àv{|Çzc|Ç fà|àv{|Çzc|Ç fà|àv{|Çz

Pinstitching looks similar to a blanket stitch. The straight edge goes just

out side the lace edge into your fabric, and the crosswise stitches

go over the edge and into the lace.

• Lay your insertion lace over the top of your fabric.

• Thread the top of your machine with a shiny rayon thread. You do

not need to change the bobbin.

• Change your presser foot to the appliqué foot or a wide zigzag foot.

• Insert a wing needle.

• If your machine has built in heirloom stitches, set it to the pinstitch

stitch.

• Set the tension to around 3.0. Use a stitch length of 2.0 and a 2.0

stitch width.

• Turning the hand wheel, lower the needle position. Make sure the

needle will connect with the fabric and stitch sideways into the lace.

• Place stabilizer under your fabric and lace.

• Stitch your lace to your fabric.

• Tear away the stabilizer.

• Carefully cut away the fabric from underneath the lace.

17

3.

2.

1.

Puffing strips add a lot of interest to your project. They are basically strips that

have been gathered evenly from both edges and pressed flat. You control the

amount of fullness in them. Follow the directions below to make puffing strips

that can be sewn into your projects:

• Tear across the width of your fabric rather than cutting so

you will be working with the true straight of grain. One width

will give you a nice 15” - 18” puffing. Cut enough strips to

equal about three times longer than you want your finished

length to be.

• Make your strip 2 1/2” wide.

• Trim off excess threads from the tear.

• Press your strip - do not starch, yet.

• Because we are working with lightweight fabrics, set your

stitch length at 2.5—3.0.

• Stitch down each side (only through one thickness) in the

same direction. Do not backstitch. Stitch 1/2” from the edge

of the strip (1). Stitch both rows from the top side.

• At the same time gently pull both bottom threads from the

same end to create gathers. Keep pulling until you reach

the desired fullness and gathers are even on both sides (2).

• Pin your gathered strip to your ironing board on the stitching

at both ends.

• Spray your strip with starch.

• Gently set a warm iron down onto the gathered strip to flatten

the gathers (3).

• Let dry completely before sewing onto your project.

• Find a stitch on your machine that you like.

• Re-thread the top thread with a rayon thread. Rayon is

shiny. We recommend “Sulky”.

• Refer to your machine’s manual on adjustments

to make for the stitch you have chosen. Adjust

your tension, stitch width, stitch length, and

change to the proper presser foot for the stitch

you have chosen.

• Place a piece of stabilizer under your fabric,

which will prevent your fabric from puckering.

• Stitch out a sample.

• When you have completed the fancy stitches on

your projects, carefully tear away the stabilizer

from the backside.

• Press with spray starch from the backside only.

YtÇvç `tv{|Çx fà|àv{xáYtÇvç `tv{|Çx fà|àv{xáYtÇvç `tv{|Çx fà|àv{xáYtÇvç `tv{|Çx fà|àv{xá

câyy|Çzcâyy|Çzcâyy|Çzcâyy|Çz

18

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• Cut your piece of fabric, spray with starch and press dry. Do

not starch your lace.

• Press a centerfold lengthwise and crosswise on your fabric to

use for placement.

• With a washout marking pen, trace the outline of the design

onto your fabric, centering it with the centerfold creases.

• Place your fabric over a lace shaping board which is made for

you to pin into as well as press on.

• Pin the outside edge of the lace all the way around the design.

Begin on a corner when possible, and leave the lace extended

about 1” beyond the start of the design. Do not stretch the lace

as you pin (1).

• On an inside point or corner, pin the lace where it lays

naturally at the point, fold the lace back over itself, pin the

outside point, and then continue pinning from the outside,

around your shape.

• Once you are all the way around the design, cut lace ends,

leaving a 1” tail.

• Your insertion lace will have some thread in little loops on

both of the outside edges. Pull this thread about three loops in

from the end, on the inside lace edge (2).

• Gently pull this thread and it will gather in the excess lace until

it lays flat. You may need to adjust the gathers to make

them even.

• Spray with starch and carefully press until dry.

• Once the lace dries, take the pins off from the shaping board,

and lay them flat onto the lace to hold in place for stitching (3).

Take your entire piece off the board.

• Using a pinstitch on your machine, or a zigzag if you do not

have that stitch, stitch around the outside of your design.

Stitch only the shape. Do not stitch the extended beginning

and ending lace (4). Be sure to use stabilizer underneath.

• Zigzag stitch the inside edge of the lace with extra fine sewing

thread. Use a 1.5 stitch length, and 2.5 stitch width.

• Carefully trim away the fabric from behind the lace, and the

beginning and ending lace extensions (5).

• Zigzag stitch down the overlap on corners and points, and

carefully trim away any excess lace (6).

• Press and starch a final time.

• To miter an outside corner, place a pin on the outside corner,

fold the lace back on itself, place pin on the inside corner.

Continue on around curve or to next corner (7).

5.

2.

4.

6.

1.

Straight edges, as in squares

or diamonds, need only be

pinned on the outside and

inside corners. Follow all

other instructions.

3.

Laces can be curved and shaped into almost any design to add interest and

richness to your project.

7.

19

6.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Fabric to Entredeux: • Do not trim fabric edge from the entredeux.

• Pin the entredeux and fabric right sides together.

• Stitch as close as possible to the edge of the entredeux

hole border edge.

• Use a 2.0 stitch length.

• Cut off excess seam allowance by trimming to 1/4 inch

from stitching.

• Zigzag the raw edges together, using a 1.5 stitch length

and a 1.5 stitch width. Remember, when you zigzag, the zig

goes into the fabric, and the zag goes just off the edge of

the seam allowance. Your fabric should roll under the zigzag (1).

• Press the seam flat, as machine stitched.

• Open up your fabric and entredeux, and press the seam

allowance toward the fabric (2).

• Handle gathered fabric (including puffing) the same as you

handle flat fabric.

Flat Lace to Entredeux: • Trim the batiste from the edge of your entredeux next to

the stitching (3).

• If you have one, put the edge joining foot onto your machine.

• With tear away stabilizer underneath, match the lace and

entredeux edge, and zigzag stitch, with a stitch length 1.5, and

stitch width 2.5. Be sure that the zig goes into as many

holes on the entredeux as possible, and that the zag goes into

the insertion lace heading (4).

• Tear away the stabilizer.

Flat Lace to Flat Lace: • Butt the two edges of laces together, side by side, but

don’t overlap them.

• With tear away stabilizer underneath, zigzag the laces

together using a 1.5 stitch length, and a 1.5 stitch width (5).

Be sure that you catch both sides of the insertion lace heading.

Gathered Edging Lace to Flat Lace: • Heirloom edging laces have loop thread in the heading.

You can gather the lace by gently pulling on this loop thread (6).

]É|Ç|Çz YtuÜ|vá? _tvxá tÇw XÇàÜxwxâå]É|Ç|Çz YtuÜ|vá? _tvxá tÇw XÇàÜxwxâå]É|Ç|Çz YtuÜ|vá? _tvxá tÇw XÇàÜxwxâå]É|Ç|Çz YtuÜ|vá? _tvxá tÇw XÇàÜxwxâå Below are techniques for joining different mediums together. Your goal is to

have secure seams, narrow and well finished, which do not show from the top

side. Insertion laces and beading are treated the same.

20

9.

8.

7. • Pull thread to gather the lace, distributing the gathers

evenly.

• Butt the edges of the lace together, and with stabilizer

underneath, zigzag stitch, with stitch length 1.5 and stitch width

2.5. Be sure to catch both lace headings in your stitching (7).

Embroidered Lace to Fabric: • Because neither the lace nor the fabric has a finished edge,

you will be making a narrow seam.

• Pin the embroidered lace and fabric right sides together.

• Stitch this seam at 1/4” seam allowance. Use a 2.0 stitch

length.

• Cut off excess seam allowance by trimming to 1/8 inch

from stitching.

• Zigzag the raw edges together, using a 1.5 stitch length and

a 1.5 stitch width. Remember, when you zigzag, the zig goes

into the fabric, and the zag goes just off the edge of the seam

allowance (8).

• Press the seam flat.

• Open up the fabric and lace, and press the seam toward

the fabric.

• Handle gathered fabric (including puffing) the same as you

handle flat fabric.

Fabric to Insertion Lace: • Follow the directions for “Pinstitching” on page 13 if you have a

machine with built in stitches. Use a wing needle.

• You may also zigzag stitch your lace to fabric.

• Lay your insertion lace over your fabric. Pin in place.

• Place stabilizer under your fabric and lace.

• Zigzag stitch your lace to your fabric. Stitch length 1.5, stitch

width 2.5.

• Tear away the stabilizer from the backside.

• Carefully cut away the fabric from underneath the lace (9).

Other Notes: • If you find that after you have torn away your stabilizer that you have some skips, just go

back and stitch over the skipped area again with extra fine sewing thread. No need to take

out the previous stitching - it should not show.

• When gathering a lightweight, fine batiste fabric, use a regular stitch length of 2.0. Pull up

the gathers and disperse evenly. If you are joining them to lace, they need to be pressed

with the tip of the iron to flatten them.

• When ever you have lace crossing lace, the lace on the top side of the fabric will be the

dominant lace, and everything underneath it will be trimmed away. Do not sew where the

dominant lace crosses or you will not be able to trim underneath.

21

f{tÜ~á gxxà{f{tÜ~á gxxà{f{tÜ~á gxxà{f{tÜ~á gxxà{

Sharks teeth are one of the most outstanding techniques in

heirloom. This technique looks especially nice on the skirt of a

little girl’s dress. It is fun and easy to do, and requires only

fabric and a ruler.

• If you wish to make a row of five 1” tucks, you will need to cut your

batiste about 10” longer than you normally would to allow for the

fabrics taken up by the tucks. See the chart on the next page for

different width tucks.

• Begin by starching and pressing your fabric.

• Starch both sides and press your fabric well.

• Draw a line with a washout marking pen all the way across the fabric,

where you want the middle tuck to begin. Press a crease on this line.

• Mark with your washout marking pen two lines on each side of the

center crease. For 1” tucks, mark lines 3” and 6” on both sides. Press a

crease on these lines (1). For other sizes, see the chart on the next page.

• Fold the fabric back on the crease and machine stitch each individual

tuck. In this case, you will stitch 1” from the crease edge. Continue to

stitch all five tucks (2).

• Press the tucks individually to set the stitches. Then turn the fabric over,

and from the backside, press all the tucks in one direction. The bottom

of each tuck should meet the stitched edge of the next tuck (3).

• Starting at the top row, clip a straight cut the depth of the tuck in the

exact center.

• Fold the cut edges up under the tuck, all the way to the seam allowance,

forming an upside down V. Press. It sometimes helps to fold the tuck

up to position the cut edge; this enables you to make sharper points.

• Place a small piece of Wonder Tape on the folded piece to hold it

in place.

• Repeat for row two, clipping where the two bottom edges of the upside

down V meet the second row. This distance should match the clip

spacing on the chart on the next page. Accuracy and patience will

produce nice sharp points (4).

• Repeat this for the next three rows. Turn the edges up, press, and hold

in place with Wonder Tape (5).

• Thread machine with rayon thread, and select either a pinstitch (without

a wing needle) or another decorative stitch. A zigzag with extra fine

sewing thread will also work.

• You will pinstitch just inside the original stitching on the tuck, catching

the turned up edges that make the sharks teeth. Stitch the entire length

of the tuck with stabilizer underneath (6). Be careful not to catch the

tuck above in your stitching.

2.

4.

3.

5.

6.

1.

22

Chart Explanation:

A. Select the size tucks you

would like to make.

B. Cut your fabric this

much longer than your

pattern to allow extra

fabric for the tucks.

C. This is the distance

between the creases you

mark and press.

D. This is the seam

allowance you will

stitch from each

creased edge to form the

tuck.

E. This is the distance

between each clip mark

on the same tuck. See

pattern in box.

F. If you plan to repeat the

pattern several times, as

in making a skirt,

you may want to start

from the bottom, or you

may distance the top

points this far apart.

• Check to make sure you caught all the turned up edges in your

stitching. If not, tack by hand. If your stitching goes outside the

original tuck, the tuck will not lay flat and even.

• Starch and press your fabric and tucks from the backside (7).

Measurements for 5 row Sharks Teeth A. B. C. D. E. F.

Size of Cut Fabric Distance Width of Clip Distance

Tucks longer between stitching spacing between

creases starting

points

1” 10” 3” 1” 2” 10”

3/4” 8” 2 1/4” 3/4” 1 1/2” 7.5”

1/2” 6” 1 1/2” 1/2” 1” 5”

7.

Clip into your tucks

following this pattern.

fxã|Çz g|Ñfxã|Çz g|Ñfxã|Çz g|Ñfxã|Çz g|щ‰‰‰fxã|Çz `tv{|Çx cÜÉuÄxÅáfxã|Çz `tv{|Çx cÜÉuÄxÅáfxã|Çz `tv{|Çx cÜÉuÄxÅáfxã|Çz `tv{|Çx cÜÉuÄxÅá

• The first thing to do if you are experiencing problems with your sewing machine is

rethread your machine. This generally takes care of a most problems.

• Change your needles often...whenever you begin a new project. You may need to change

three or four times before completing your quilt project.

• Keep your machine clean. Using a soft brush, clean the lint from the lower part of your

machine after each project. Lint collects around the bobbin casing and can cause problems.

• If using a twin needle for pintucks, be sure each thread goes on different sides of the tension

disc when threading.

• Make sure your bobbin is correctly inserted. Never change the tension on the bobbin case.

• Keep your machine oiled. We suggest oiling every three months.

23

gâÜÇxw Xwzx TÑÑÄ|Öâ° gâÜÇxw Xwzx TÑÑÄ|Öâ° gâÜÇxw Xwzx TÑÑÄ|Öâ° gâÜÇxw Xwzx TÑÑÄ|Öâ° With Wash Away Basting Thread

This is a wonderful, simple technique for smooth and

accurately turned appliqué edges.

• You will need 2 pieces of fabric cut the same size.

• Starch and press dry your appliqué fabric pieces, front and backing.

• Trace the pattern stitching lines onto your front fabric (1).

• Draw the cutting line onto your fabric, but do not cut out on this line

until later.

• Set your machine up with wash away basting thread threaded on the

top. Set your stitch length at 2.5.

• Stitch on the stitching line using stabilizer underneath.

• Remove the stabilizer and cut out on the cutting line, which will be

1/4” from the stitched edge (2).

• Clip and notch where needed for it to turn and lay smoothly. See

page 10 (3).

• Carefully cut a small slit in the back fabric, near the center, to turn

your appliqué right side out.

• Turn right side out, carefully poke out points, and press into shape

with a dry iron (4).

• Put a small amount of water into a bowl. With your fingers, dampen

the seam line. The upper stitches will dissolve. You may need to add

a bit more if they don’t dissolve right away. Don’t force the layers to

separate. Just add more water.

• Open up and you have your appliqué with all the edges turned

perfectly.

• Press completely dry.

• Place and center your appliqué piece onto your fabric.

• Pin in place. Keep pins away from the edges to be stitched.

• Lay stabilizer behind your fabric, and pin to fabric near outer edges.

• You have the choice of finishing the appliqué edge several ways: pin

stitch, straight stitch, zigzag, or hand blind stitch the appliqué.

• Stitch the appliqué in place (6).

• Tear off stabilizer from behind the fabric.

• Starch and press well.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

1.

24

`tv{|Çx f{xÄÄ Xwz|Çz`tv{|Çx f{xÄÄ Xwz|Çz`tv{|Çx f{xÄÄ Xwz|Çz`tv{|Çx f{xÄÄ Xwz|Çz

This stitch makes a cute edging for gathered ruffles, as well as a sweet finish for

baby garment necklines, sleeves, and hems.

• Lightly starch and press your fabric.

• Fold in half lengthwise.

• Set your machine for the blind hem stitch, setting

the stitch length at 2.0, and the stitch width at 4.0.

Change the tension to between 6 and 7. You will

also need to mirror image the pattern so that the

“bite” of the stitch falls towards the fold of the fabric.

• Practice on a sample first. The straight stitches will

stitch parallel to the fabric, and the zigzag should just

go over the fold of the fabric. Because of the tension

change, this zigzag stitch will pull the fabric in, creating

a shell, or scalloped looking edge.

• For single thicknesses, use a rolled hem foot and roll and

stitch the hem in one step.

fxtÅ Y|Ç|á{xá yÉÜ [x|ÜÄÉÉÅ cÜÉ}xvàáfxtÅ Y|Ç|á{xá yÉÜ [x|ÜÄÉÉÅ cÜÉ}xvàáfxtÅ Y|Ç|á{xá yÉÜ [x|ÜÄÉÉÅ cÜÉ}xvàáfxtÅ Y|Ç|á{xá yÉÜ [x|ÜÄÉÉÅ cÜÉ}xvàá

French Seam (A)

French seams are finished seams that

are used wherever a seam might show.

For 1/4” seams, zigzag stitch against

the edge of the seam, wrong sides

together. Use a stitch length of 1.5, and

stitch width of 2.5. The fabric should

roll under the zigzag. Press open, and

crease back over the zigzagged seam.

The right sides are now together.

Straight stitch a scant 1/4” seam

allowance. Using the zigzag for the

first seam helps eliminate small threads

in the final seam.

Joining Seams (B)

Joining seams are used in

heirloom to attach two fabrics

together. For 1/4” seams, stitch

the first seam at 1/4” seam

allowance. Zigzag the edges

together. The fabric should roll

under the zigzag, giving you

about a 1/8” finished seam

allowance.

A.

B.

25

1.

2.

3.

5.

YtÇvç Z|yà UtzYtÇvç Z|yà UtzYtÇvç Z|yà UtzYtÇvç Z|yà Utz Finished size: 8” X 12”

A lovely gift bag anyone would like to receive. You will be

surprised how beautiful and easy heirloom sewing is.

Materials and Supplies:

• 1/3 yard batiste

• 1/2 yard edging lace

• Colored rayon thread

Instructions:

• Cut a piece of batiste 10 1/2” X 20” for the bag body.

• Cut a piece of batiste 1 1/2” X 20” for the header.

• Starch the entire body piece and header piece.

• With washout marking pen, mark a line 5” in from one end of

the body piece (1).

• Lay a piece of insertion lace down the middle of this line.

Follow the directions on page 13. Be sure to use stabilizer

underneath. Remove the stabilizer after stitching, before

beginning the pintucks.

• Draw five lines on each side of the insertion lace, spacing

them a distance of 3/8” from each other.

• Stitch out two rows of pintucks on each side of the lace

insertion, as well as the two outside rows on each side.

Set your machine up with a double needle and two spools

of thread on the top. Follow the instructions on page 11

for the machine settings and information on stitching the

pintucks (2).

• Find a fancy machine stitch on your machine,

put the single needle back in, place stabilizer on the back,

and stitch a fancy machine stitch down the third line

from the lace insertion. Also stitch down the

middle of the header piece (3).

• Trim your bag to 10” X 17”.

• Lay the bag piece out flat, and sew the beading lace to

the top. Follow lace insertion directions.

• Sew the header batiste piece to the beading.

• Now stitch the edging lace to the other edge of the

header (4).

• Fold the bag in half, right side out, and using a French

seam, page 21, sew the bottom of the bag and all the

way up the side of the bag.

• Beginning on the seam edge, run a ribbon through the holes

in the beading all the way around for closure. Run a second

ribbon from the other side (5).

4

• 1/4 yard insertion lace

• 2 yards of 1/8” ribbon

• 1/2 yard beading lace

26

6.

5.

1.

2.

3.

4.

fãxxà _täxÇwxÜ ftv{xàfãxxà _täxÇwxÜ ftv{xàfãxxà _täxÇwxÜ ftv{xàfãxxà _täxÇwxÜ ftv{xà Finished size: 7 1/2” X 7 1/2”

Heirloom stitched sachets look lovely in closets and

dresser drawers….the sweet fragrance helps to freshen

and protect your clothing.

Materials and Supplies:

• 1/4 yard batiste

• 1/4 yard ribbon

• 1 cup lavender potpourri

Instructions:

• Cut a 7” X 7” square of fabric. Starch and press well.

• With washout marking pen, mark a line down the center of your square.

• Center beading on this square, and either pin stitch or zigzag in place.

• Mark lines on both sides of beading, 1/4” away from outside edge.

• Select a fancy machine stitch to stitch down both sides.

• Set your machine up to do pintucks. Follow instructions on page 11.

• Mark a line 3/8” away from the fancy machine stitch on each side.

• Stitch your first row on this line. Using the outside groove in your

pintuck foot as a guide, put in two more rows of pintucks on each side.

• Press and starch well.

• Insert ribbon into your beading lace (1).

• Trim your square to 5 1/2” X 5 1/2”.

• Cut a 2” X 45” strip of fabric (the width of the fabric) for borders.

• Sew the strip to the two sides of your square at 1/4” seam allowance,

and trim the ends even.

• Now sew the strip to the top and bottom edges. Trim the ends even (2).

• Cut two more pieces of fabric, approximately 8” X 8”, or the exact size

of the top square. One piece is the top lining, the other the sachet back.

• Layer these pieces together...lining, top fabric (right side up), then

backing (3).

• Pin and stitch the outside edges at 1/4” seam allowance. Leave a 3”

opening on one side edge to insert lavender.

• Clip corners, turn right side out, and press (4).

• Stitch in the ditch (page 53) on the seam attaching the borders. Leave a

3” opening, on the same side as the outer opening (5).

• Lightly stuff the center section with 1 cup of sweet lavender potpourri.

• Now machine stitch the border opening closed.

• By hand, slip stitch the outside opening edge closed (6).

• Cut the remaining ribbon in half. Holding the two pieces together, tie

into a bow. Hand tack it to the top of your sachet, letting the strings

dangle down.

You may purchase sweet lavender buds at our website under sewing

supplies. Please go to www.bunkhousesewing.com

27

1.

2.

3.

4. 5.

6.

7.

8.

WÜxááç [tÄy fÄ|ÑWÜxááç [tÄy fÄ|ÑWÜxááç [tÄy fÄ|ÑWÜxááç [tÄy fÄ|Ñ A nice, lightweight, cotton, great for summer, half slip is difficult

to find. This simple project shows you how to make your

own...and much prettier than you’ll find in the stores.

Materials and Supplies:

• 2 1/2 yards of cotton fabric

• Laces

Make Your Pattern:

• Take your hip measurement and add 8”. Divide this in half for panel

width measurement.

• Determine what you want the finished length to be, and add 7” to allow

for casing, hem and tucks.

• Cut two pieces, on the bias (1), the length and width above (1, 2).

Instructions:

• Cut out your pattern. We will make the turned edge appliqué hemline

first.

• With washout marking pen, trace the scallops from the table topper

project on page 88 onto the bottom edge of one piece with the tips of the

scallops 1/2” from the edge of the fabric.

• Pin both pieces of fabric together along the scallop lines (3).

• Thread your machine with wash away basting thread.

• Stitch on the scallop line using 2.5 stitch length.

• Trim this seam to 1/4” seam allowance.

• Clip across the points, and clip along the curved edges.

• Turn right side out and press. Gently poke out the points for nicely

shaped scallops.

• With your fingers, apply a small amount of water along the stitching

edge to dissolve the basting thread. If it does not dissolve, add a bit

more water.

• Gently open up both skirt pieces. You should have beautifully shaped

scallops, with nicely turned edges.

• Turn the bottom scalloped edge up so that the points of the scallops are

3” from the fold edge.

• Press bottom hemline fold in place, and press scallops completely dry

before stitching (5).

• Pin the scallops in place, then stitch in place. You may pinstitch, or

straight stitch with your machine (6). With washout marking pen, mark

each skirt piece as follows:

1st line - 4 1/2” from hemline for 1/4” tuck;

2nd line - 5 1/2” for 1/4” tuck;

3rd line - 6 1/2” for 1/4” tuck;

4th line - 7” for fancy machine stitching;

5th line - 7 1/2” for edge of 3/4” lace insertion;

6th line - 8 3/4” for fancy machine stitching;

• Wash away basting thread

• Lingerie elastic (waist measure - 5”)

• Rayon thread

28

9.

10

11.

7th line - 9” for pintuck;

8th line - 9 1/2” for pintuck;

Mark five more rows, 1/4” apart for a grouping of pintucks;

Mark a row 1/2” up, then another 1/2” for 2 more pintucks;

Mark your last line 1” from the last pintuck for a fancy

machine stitch.

• Stitch out each of the above techniques on the lines you marked on

both fabric pieces. This will give you a pretty 10 1/2” slip border (7).

• Stitch side seams at 5/8” seam allowance from top edge to within 10”

from the bottom (the open area will become the bottom side slits).

• Press seam open, and continue pressing the 5/8” seam allowance to

the hemline (8).

• Topstitch the slits in place using presser foot width (9).

• Cut elastic 5” shorter than your waist measurement (3” for children).

• Sew elastic ends together (10).

• Divide elastic into fourths, and fabric into fourths. Pin each section

together (11).

• Stretch elastic and zigzag stitch the elastic to the fabric, stretching

and stitching from pin to pin.

• Trim away excess fabric on the underside of the slip, above the

zigzag (12).

12.

Turn your slip pattern into a

VÄtááç fàÜt|z{à f~|ÜàVÄtááç fàÜt|z{à f~|ÜàVÄtááç fàÜt|z{à f~|ÜàVÄtááç fàÜt|z{à f~|Üà • With a few adjustments, you can make yourself a fancy

straight skirt!

• Select a heavier cotton/polyester fabric rather than batiste.

• Add 1” to length to make an elastic casing at the top.

Skirt Embellishment:

• Make your scallops for the bottom hemline as in the half slip.

• Stitch the skirt pieces together on one side seam only.

• Stitch 3 rows of 1/4” tucks, followed by three rows of fancy stitches.

• Stitch the other side seam, leaving a 6” opening. Topstitch the opening.

Elastic Waistline:

• Press the top edge under 1” to the back side.

• Stitch 7/8” from the fold line, leaving a 3” opening to insert elastic.

• Measure your waist and subtract 2”. Cut 3/4” non-roll elastic this

length.

• Insert elastic through the casing (2).

• Overlap ends and zigzag stitch together (3).

• Slide elastic back into casing, and stitch opening closed.

1.

2.

3.

29

Yardage, Notions and Guidelines for Heirloom Quilt

Yardage & Notions

Batiste Fabric: Yardage is given

individually if you would like to use

different colors for different parts of the

quilt.

• Blocks - 2 1/2 yards

• Small sashing squares - 1/2 yard

• Sashing - 1 yard

• Outside ruffle - 1 yard

• Backing and top underlay - 3 yards

Batting: Match the fiber content of the

batting to the fiber content of your fabric.

• 1 1/2 yards batting

Thread:

• 6 spools extra fine white

• 3 spools rayon white

• 3 colored rayon for machine Embroidery

stitches

OR

• Hand embroidery threads - several

skeins of three pastel colors

Laces

Lace yardage is approximately what is needed

for completing the quilt. You will need either

insertion or beading lace for the sashing, but

not both.

Insertion Lace:

• Blocks - 8 yards

• Sashing - 10 yards

Beading Lace:

• Blocks - 2 yards

• Sashing - 10 yards

Edging Lace:

• We give directions to make our own

outside ruffle. If you would like to

purchase flat lace to make your ruffle:

• Outside ruffle - 6 yards

• If you would like to purchase pregathered

lace instead:

• Outside ruffle - 3 yards

Entredeux:

• Blocks - 4 yards

Silk Ribbon:

• Blocks - 2 yards

• Sashing (when using beading) - 10 yards

You can make this exquisite

[x|ÜÄÉÉÅ ftÅÑÄxÜ dâ|Äà[x|ÜÄÉÉÅ ftÅÑÄxÜ dâ|Äà[x|ÜÄÉÉÅ ftÅÑÄxÜ dâ|Äà[x|ÜÄÉÉÅ ftÅÑÄxÜ dâ|Äà Finished Size: 51” X 51”

30

You will be making each of the following nine squares, while you learn a variety

of heirloom sewing techniques. Each square may be embellished with a touch

of embroidery, either by machine or by hand, and silk ribbon. Traditional

heirloom used soft, pastel colors.

Block 1 Pintucks, Lace Insertion,

Machine Embroidery

Block 2 Lace Shaping

Block 3 Pintucks, Lace Shaping

Block 5 Entredeux, Joining Laces

Block 4 Lace Shaping, Embroidery,

Curved Pintucks

Block 8 Turned Edge Appliqué, Bias

Pintucks, Embroidery

Block 7 Sharks Teeth, Embroidery

Block 9 Pintucks, Turned Edge

Appliqué, Lace Shaping

Block 6 Puffing, Entredeux,

Lace Shaping

31

Zâ|wxÄ|Çxá yÉÜ VÉÇáàÜâvà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|ÄàZâ|wxÄ|Çxá yÉÜ VÉÇáàÜâvà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|ÄàZâ|wxÄ|Çxá yÉÜ VÉÇáàÜâvà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|ÄàZâ|wxÄ|Çxá yÉÜ VÉÇáàÜâvà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|Äà

• You will always be asked to cut your blocks larger than you want them finished. Many of

the stitches will take up extra fabric, plus you cannot start a lot of stitches right on the edge.

It’s much easier to trim your block to size than to have to remake the block because it is too

small!

• You will always be asked to spray starch your block and press it completely dry before you

begin working with it. The exception to this rule will be in preparing and making your

puffing strips.

• Because we are dealing with lightweight fabric, you should always use stabilizer under your

fabric and laces when stitching them on the sewing machine. The exception to this rule is

when you are stitching pintucks, and preparing your puffing strips for gathering. I prefer a

tear-away stabilizer, like Stitch and Ditch.

• Use a washout marking pen for all marking.

• Refer to the more detailed instruction pages if you have questions when stitching the blocks.

• If your spray starch turns brown on your fabric, you are applying it too thick. Several light

coats are better than one heavy coat. The brown spots will washout with water, so please

don’t throw your work away to start over!

• Be creative—learn the techniques and you can make the block any way you want.

• I suggest you pace yourself. We want you to enjoy this project. Make just one block each

week. Once you know how to do lace insertion you may want to cut your sashing, and

complete one sashing strip each week along with your block.

• Feel free to add embellishments to the finished

blocks. Hand and/or machine embroidery is very nice.

Traditionally, embellishments are done in soft, pastel

colors. Instructions on how to make the different hand

embroidery stitches as well as patterns are at the end

of the book.

• Do not backstitch anywhere it may show. Instead,

leave long tails and pull the top thread through to the

back side, tie with a square knot (page 10), and trim

threads to 1/4”.

• Purchase the best quality fabrics and laces you can

afford. Quality does affect the final appearance.

32

6.

5.

4.

3.

1.

2.

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ cÜÉ}xvà 6Ddâ|Äà UÄÉv~ cÜÉ}xvà 6Ddâ|Äà UÄÉv~ cÜÉ}xvà 6Ddâ|Äà UÄÉv~ cÜÉ}xvà 6D

Lace Insertion - Pintucks - Machine

Embroidery

• Cut out a 17” X 17” square of batiste.

• Starch the entire block piece, on both sides. Let dry very well. Do

not use a steam iron (1).

• Press crease down the center (lengthwise) of the fabric block.

• Lay insertion lace down middle of block, centering on crease. Pin

stitch (or zigzag stitch) in place following the directions on page 13.

• With a washout marking pen, mark 1” on each side of lace.

• Following the marks on each side of the lace, stitch a row of

pintucks ( see page 11). Placing the last stitched pintuck in the

outside groove of your presser foot, stitch pintucks until you have a

group of three on each side.

• From last row of pintucks, mark a line 2” away with washout

marking pen.

• Stitch a group of five pintucks on each side. Your pintucks are now

complete.

• From back side, press pintucks, and re-starch fabric.

• Draw a line between lace insertion and first set of pintucks. Also,

draw a line between the two sets of pintucks on each side of

your block.

• Find a fancy machine stitch on your machine, and stitch down the

rows you have just marked. Be sure to use stabilizer underneath.

You may want to use some colored rayon thread. If you do not

have a machine embroidery stitch, select one of the hand

embroidery stitches at the end of the book to stitch onto your block.

• Using water, remove the washout marking pen markings from

your block.

• Press and starch your block.

• Trim to a 13” finished square.

Feel free to change the order of the techniques - be creative! Just be

sure to use all three techniques on this block.

33

Center—

Align with lengthwise crease

Insertion Lace

Fancy M

achine Stitch

Pintucks

Fancy M

achine Stitch

Pintucks

Placement Lines for Quilt Block #1

1/4 of finished square

This represents 1/4 of the square. This is a suggestion only. Feel free to design your own.

Top

Center—Align with crosswise crease

34

6.

5.

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ cÜÉ}xvà 6Edâ|Äà UÄÉv~ cÜÉ}xvà 6Edâ|Äà UÄÉv~ cÜÉ}xvà 6Edâ|Äà UÄÉv~ cÜÉ}xvà 6E

Lace Shaping - Pin Stitching

• Cut a 17” X 17” square of batiste.

• Spray starch your block and press dry.

• Press a centerfold lengthwise and crosswise in your fabric.

• With a washout marking pen, trace the design from the next page

onto your block, lining the center lines up with the creased

folds (1).

• Following the lace shaping directions on page 15, pin the outside

edge, gather the inside to fit, and starch, press and repin your hearts

to prepare for stitching them (2).

• Pinstitch with rayon thread (or zigzag) the outside, and then zigzag

the inside edges of your hearts with extra fine sewing thread.

• Stitch only the shape. Do not stitch the lace that extends beyond the

bottom of the heart. This will be trimmed away (3).

• Carefully, trim the fabric from behind the lace. Trim off the extra

lace overlapping the bottom point (4).

• Zigzag stitch (1.5 stitch length and 1.5 stitch width) down the

center of the overlap on the top and bottom point of the heart (5).

• Carefully, trim the excess lace from these two points (6).

• Repeat this procedure for all four hearts.

• When all are completed remove markings, using water.

• Press and starch entire block.

• Trim block to a finished 13” square, with the hearts centered (8).

• Feel free to add some embroidery embellishment to this square (by

machine or hand). Directions and designs for hand embroidery

begin on page 93.

1.

2.

3.

4.

35

Placement Lines for Quilt Block #2

1/4 of finished block

Center—

Align with lengthwise crease

This is 1/4 the size of your block. Make four actual size hearts, placing them according to this

diagram.

Center—Align with crosswise crease.

Top

Pattern—Actual Heart Size and Shape

This heart is a pattern only. Follow those on

fold for placement.

36

3.

4.

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6Fdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6Fdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6Fdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6F

Lace Shaping - Pintuck Insertion

• Cut a 17” X 17” square of batiste for your block. Spray starch and

press dry (1).

• Press a crease lengthwise and crosswise in your fabric. This will help

you in placing your two hearts.

• Carefully find the placement for your overlapping hearts, using the

heart placement and guidelines on the next page. Trace onto your

fabric with a washout marking pen.

• Follow lace shaping directions as in your last project. Pinstitch (or

zigzag only the outside edges of your lace hearts. Do not stitch the

inside curves (2).

• Trim away all the fabric from inside of the hearts, and cut off the lace

that extended beyond the bottom point.

• Zigzag the points of the lace at the top and bottom points (3).

• Trim away the excess lace from behind the points (4).

• Cut another piece of fabric, 17” X 8”. Starch and press dry.

• Prepare your machine for pintucks.

• Pintuck this entire piece of fabric, lengthwise, placing pintucks

1/2” apart (5).

• Cut the fabric in half. This will give you two pieces of pintucked

fabric, one for each heart, each approximately 7” X 8”.

• Lay the pintuck fabric behind the heart, and pin in place (6).

• Zigzag stitch the inside curve of the lace to the pintuck fabric.

• Trim off excess pintuck fabric from behind the lace (7).

• Repeat for second heart.

• Starch and press your block well from the backside.

• Trim block to a finished 13” square (8).

• Feel free to add some embroidery to the two outside corners of

this design.

2.

1.

5.

6.

7.

8.

37

f{tÑx yÉÜ dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6Ff{tÑx yÉÜ dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6Ff{tÑx yÉÜ dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6Ff{tÑx yÉÜ dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6F

This is the actual size of the heart. Trace 2 hearts, overlapping them, onto your block.

38

1.

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Gdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Gdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Gdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 G

Curved Pintucks - Lace Shaping - Embroidery

2.

3.

4.

• Cut a 17” X 17” square of batiste.

• Starch and press well.

• Press a crease on your fabric, lengthwise and crosswise (1).

• Slide the large oval pattern on the next page under your fabric

and with a washout marking pen, draw the design onto your

fabric piece.

• Using the lace shaping techniques, pin outside edge of lace

on the line, pull threads to make inside edge fit, starch and

re-pin lace to fabric (2).

• Pinstitch outside edge with a wing needle. Pinstitch the inside

edge with a regular needle, or zigzag the edge.

• Do not cut out behind the lace - this comes later.

• Give your fabric a good starching and pressing.

• Set your machine up for pintucks.

• Line up the edge of your pintuck presser foot next to the

outside edge of the lace. Stitch around the oval to within 3”

of your starting point. Pull your starting threads through to

the backside, tie a square knot (page 10), and trim ends to

1/4”. Now, continue stitching until you overlap your first

stitching about 3/4”. Leave tail ends long. Pull to the

backside, tie a square knot, and trim to 1/4”.

• Line up your second row by putting the first row in the last

slot on your pintuck foot. Begin at a different place on the

oval, and end by overlapping stitching as above.

• Stitch a third row, lining up the same as the second (3).

• Starch and press from the wrong side.

• Set your machine up for machine embroidery, or find a

picture in the embroidery designs section to transfer onto your

fabric for hand embroidery. Be sure to center the design on

your square. Hand embroidery stitching instructions can be

found on page 93.

• Once embroidery is complete, starch and press from the

backside.

• Trim to a 13” finished square (4).

39

Large Oval - Placement and Lines for Block #4

and

Lovely Shrug, misses size

Crosswise Crease

Lengthwise crease

Small Oval - Placement and Lines for

Lovely Shrug, girls size

40

1.

3.

5

2.

4.

6.

7.

• Cut a variety of laces, beading, entredeux and fabrics about 16

inches long. Cut enough that when they are sewn together they will

make a sewn strip at least seven inches wide.

• Lay your laces in an interesting placement. It’s nice to use

entredeux next to fabrics and embroidered lace (1).

• Press and starch your laces and fabric.

• Following the directions on page 16 and 17, stitch your laces

together. Look for specific directions on the following:

..Joining fabric to entredeux

..Joining flat lace to entredeux

..Joining flat lace to flat lace (2,3)

..Joining embroidered lace to fabric

..Joining fabric to lace insertion

• Be sure to note the stitch length and stitch width for each

application. If you “missed” a spot when stitching, simply go over

it again. If you are using extra fine sewing thread that matches

your fabric, it will not show and you need not take the original

stitching out.

• Always use a stabilizer underneath your fabric, and begin with the

center lace. Remember that after you stitch on a piece of lace, turn

your block and stitch the next piece of lace from the other direction.

This will prevent your piece from shifting.

• If you used a fabric strip, you may want to add pintucks or fancy

machine stitches to make it more interesting. Complete that process

at this time.

• If you used beading, insert your ribbon now. Remove stabilizer (4).

• Your strip is now approximately 7”+ wide and about 16” long.

• Press and starch well.

• Cut your strip into two, 7” squares (5).

• Cut two, 7” square fabric pieces.

• Press and starch these fabric pieces.

• Lay them out in the four square pattern shown (6).

• Stitch the top lace and plain square together. Repeat for the bottom.

Now, stitch the top and bottom rectangles together.

• Starch, press and trim to a 13” finished square (7).

• Add embroidery embellishment on the plain squares if desired.

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ Hdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ Hdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ Hdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ H

Joining Laces - Entredeux

41

10. 11. 12.

9. 8.

7. 6.

• Cut a 17 X 7” piece of batiste for center diamonds, and two

17” X 3” pieces batiste for the outside edges. Starch all three

pieces well.

• Cut two pieces of batiste, 2 1/2” wide by the width of the fabric

(42 - 45” long). Do not starch; these pieces are for the puffing.

• Cut four pieces of entredeux 17” long.

• Fold in half, and press a crease down the middle, lengthwise and

crosswise, of your 17” X 7” center fabric (1).

• Trace the lines for the lace shaping diamonds on the next page

onto your fabric, centering on the crease.

• Following the lace shaping guidelines on page 15, pin in place and

stitch the diamonds. Use a pinstitch on the outside edges, and a

narrow zigzag on the insides using extra fine sewing thread (2).

• Carefully cut out the fabric from behind the lace (3).

• Using water, remove the markings from your fabric.

• Starch well, and then trim your piece to 17” X 6” (4).

• Prepare your 2 strips of puffing according to the directions on page

14. Starch the finished puffing well (5, 6, 7).).

• Apply entredeux to both sides of the puffing, treating the puffing

as you would a piece of fabric.

• Be sure to press your seam allowance toward the puffing. The

holes for entredeux must “show”, with no fabric behind (8).

• Once the puffing and entredeux are complete, sew a strip to each

side of the center diamond section (9).

• Now sew the outside fabric pieces (17” X 3”) onto the outside

edge of the puffing entredeux (10).

• Starch a final time and trim your block to a 13” finished square,

centering the diamonds. You should have 1/2” seam allowance on

the outside edge of the top and bottom diamond (11).

• A small embroidery embellishment in each of the diamonds makes

a nice finish (12).

3. 2.

4.

1.

5.

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Idâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Idâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Idâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 I

Puffing - Lace Shaping

42

Lace Entredeux Puffing Entredeux Pintucks

Shaping or

Outside Machine

Edge Embroidery

on

Fabric

Placement Guidelines for Puffing Square

1/4 of quilt block

Center—

Align with lengthwise crease

Center—Align with crosswise crease

Top

43

8.

1.

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Jdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Jdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Jdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 J

Sharks Teeth—A favorite of all, as

well as quick and easy.

2.

4.

3.

5. 6. 7.

We will be stitching one sharks tooth, 5 row pattern in a 1” width. You

will want to refer to the detailed instructions on page 18 for making

sharks teeth.

• Cut a piece of batiste 24” X 17”. Starch and press both sides.

• With washout marking pen, mark and press creases according to the

chart for 1” tucks on page 19 (1).

• Stitch all five tucks, using a 2.5 stitch length, and a 1” seam

allowance (2).

• Press each tuck individually to set the stitches, and then all in one

direction from the back side (3).

• Clip and turn edges up to form upside down V’s (4). Press in place,

and secure with a piece of Wonder Tape. Work with these to produce

nice sharp teeth. See detailed instructions and follow the chart on

page 18 (5).

• Pin stitch or decorative stitch just inside your prior stitching line on

each tuck, to secure turned up teeth sections (6). Check, after

stitching, to see that all edges were caught in the stitching. If not,

hand stitch in place.

• With water, remove original line markings.

• Starch and press entire piece from backside.

• Trim to a 13” finished square (7).

• You may add some decorative hand or machine embroidery on the

top or bottom of the square if you desire (8).

44

1.

2.

3.

5.

4.

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Kdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Kdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Kdâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 K

Bias Pintucks -

Turned Edge Border Appliqué

You will have an opportunity to learn to stitch pintucks on the

bias, and the wonderful use of wash away basting thread for all

kinds of appliqué applications.

• Cut two 17” X 17” squares of batiste. One will be for the

pintucks, the other for the appliqué.

• Starch and press both fabric pieces well.

• We will make the pintucks first. Fold the square in half

diagonally, corner to opposite corner, and press. Fold in half

the other way and press.

• Draw a 12 1/2” square box in the middle of the square, on the

straight of grain (1). Use these lines as a guide for where to

start and stop your pintucks. Be sure to start and stop outside

the box.

• Using one of your pressed diagonal creases, draw lines 1”

apart with your washout marking pen. Repeat for the other

diagonal.

• Set your machine up for pintucks.

• Stitch all the pintucks on one diagonal direction, then stitch the

pintucks going the other direction. Remember to stitch

alternating rows in opposite directions to prevent shifting (1).

• Using water, remove the marking pen lines.

• Lightly press pintucks from backside.

• Set aside this section while you make the appliqué.

• Fold the second 17” square of fabric in half and press.

• Trace the pattern stitching and cutting lines, page 43, onto your

folded fabric (2).

• Do not cut out on cutting line until later.

• Set your machine up with wash away basting thread threaded

on the top. Set your stitch length at 2.5.

• Stitch, using stabilizer under your fabric, on the dark stitching

line (3).

• Remove the stabilizer and cut out on the cutting line (4).

• Clip where needed for appliqué to turn and lay smoothly.

Follow the guide on page 43. See instructions on page 10.

• Turn right side out, carefully poke out points, and press into

shape with a dry iron.

• Pour a small amount of water into a bowl. With your fingers,

dampen the seam line. The stitches will dissolve. You may

need to add a bit more if they don’t dissolve right away.

• Open up and you have your border appliqué with all the edges

turned perfectly (5).

45

6.

• Place and center your appliqué piece over the top of the lattice

pintucked piece.

• Pin in place well. Keep pins away from turned edges, where you

will be stitching (6).

• Lay stabilizer behind your block, and pin it near the outer edges.

• Using rayon thread on the top and a regular bobbin, pin stitch,

straight stitch, zigzag, or hand blind stitch the appliqué in place. A

needle down position is helpful if your machine has one because of

the numerous points and corners in this design (7).

• Tear off stabilizer from behind block.

• Trim excess pintuck fabric from back side of block, next to the

stitching.

• Press block from the wrong side.

• Trim block, centering appliqué to a finished 13” square.

• Feel free to add decorative stitching around the outside edge to

emphasize the design, or add an embroidery (by hand or machine) in

the middle (8).

6.

7.

8.

cÜxààç XçxzÄtáá VtáxcÜxààç XçxzÄtáá VtáxcÜxààç XçxzÄtáá VtáxcÜxààç XçxzÄtáá Vtáx Use this pretty case for storing your

sunglasses and preventing scratches.

• Cut 8” X 9” rectangles from batting, backing, and underlining.

• Cut 10” X 10” square from outer fabric.

• Following the instructions on page 22, stitch out the decorative

stitching for the fancy gift bag on your 10” square of batiste.

• After it has been stitched, trim it to 8” X 9”, the length of the rectangle

parallel to the stitching (1).

• Pin together and treat the decorative top piece and the interlining as

one piece (A). Pin and treat the batting and backing fabric as one

piece (B).

• Placing the right sides together, sew the top of A and B at 1/2” seam

allowance (2). Trim off batting from seam allowance and topstitch

the seam (3).

• Fold this long rectangle in half lengthwise and pin, right sides

together.

• Stitch the side and batiste bottom edge at 1/2” seam allowance,

leaving open the lining end for turning it right side out (4).

• Clip corners, trim off batting from seam allowance, and zigzag

the edges.

• Turn right side out (5).

• Turn under the seam allowance of the lining opening and stitch closed with a hand whip stitch (5). • Push the lining inside the outer piece (6). • Wow - that was quick and fun!

2.

4.

3.

1.

5.

9” Top edge

8”

46

Quilt Block # 8

Turned Edge Border Appliqué

Cutting Line

Stitching Line

Place on Fold

Full Size Appliqué Pattern

Draw onto 17” X 17”square fabric piece. Do

not cut out until after stitching is completed.

After stitching, clip into, but not

through the stitching lines in the

places shown below.

Clip into inside corners, across

outside corners, and into curves.

This allows your fabric to lay flat

once it has been turned.

6

47

6.

5.

4.

3.

2.

1.

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Ldâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Ldâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 Ldâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 L

Pintucks - Turned Edge Appliqué -

Lace Shaping

• Cut a 17” X 17” square of batiste.

• Starch well and press.

• We will make the pintucks first. Fold the square in half and mark

the center line with a washout marking pen. From there, mark 1”

from both sides of the center line until the entire square has

been marked.

• Follow the directions for pintucks on page 11, and stitch out on all

the marked lines (1).

• Press lightly from the back side.

• Find the center pintuck, and mark the lace shaping design on page

46 onto the block.

• Using the lace shaping techniques, directions on page 15, pin the

outside edge, pull the inside edge, starch and re-pin the lace to

your fabric.

• Pinstitch, using stabilizer underneath, the outside edge with a wing

needle. Be sure to stitch both sides of the bottom loop extensions

See pattern for edges to be pinstitched (2).

• Trim out behind the lace, next to the pinstitching of the loop and

the extensions.

• Cut out, starch, and press a 12” square piece of fabric.

• Lay this fabric under the open loop, and pinstitch or zigzag stitch

the inside edge (3).

• Trim away excess fabric next to the zigzag edge, from under

the lace.

Turned Edge Appliqué:

• Cut two 6” fabric squares for the appliqué.

• Press and starch. Trace bow design (page 46) onto the top square

using washout marking pen (4). The design is reversed from the

final appliqué. Do not cut out on the cutting line.

• Set your machine up with wash away basting thread on the top.

• Stitch on this line using wash away basting thread.

• Once you have stitched your bow, trim to a 1/4” seam allowance

around the outside edge cutting line (5).

• Refer to the sheet on clipping and notching points and curves on

page 10. Clip and notch the edges of your bow before turning (6).

• Make a small slit on the back fabric piece of your bow. Carefully

turn right side out through this slit. Using a knitting needle, gently

poke out all the points and curves. Press.

• Apply water to the edge of the stitching, and pull the two pieces of

fabric apart. Discard the back fabric piece with slit.

• Press dry (7).

48

9. 10.

8.

7. • Position the bow in the center of your lace shaping loop, and

stitch in place. I used an appliqué machine stitch set at 1.5

stitch length, and 2.5 stitch width (looks similar to a blanket

stitch). Be sure to use stabilizer underneath. This can be

machine zigzagged, straight stitched, pinstitched or hand

stitched (8).

• Find the completed bow pattern, page 47, and trace, with a

washout marking pen, the rest of the design lines onto

your bow.

• Stitch the design lines using rayon thread with a small zigzag

stitch set at 0.5 stitch length and 1.5 stitch width (9).

• Starch, press, and trim to a 13” finished block (10).

`t~|Çz gâv~á`t~|Çz gâv~á`t~|Çz gâv~á`t~|Çz gâv~á Nothing is more impressive than rows of folded tucks!

Making tucks is one of the easiest heirloom techniques. Here’s how:

• With washout marking pen, draw a line where you want the fold of

the tuck to be.

• Press a crease on this fold.

• Straight stitch the appropriate width from the fold on your machine.

• Press the tuck downward from the backside.

Some guidelines for making beautiful tucks:

• Tucks go in best when place on the lengthwise or crosswise grain line of your fabric. Bias

tucks work, but will require extra care.

• Curved tucks work only on gentle curves and tucks that are 1/4” or less.

• Accurate markings are essential. Use a fine washout marking pen to draw your lines.

• Stitching must be straight to prevent waves. You will need a guide. If you do not have a

computerized machine, you may like to use a magnetic seam guide. If you use your needle

plate guide, lengthen the guide lines with a piece of painter’s removable tape. For narrower

tucks, you can use the width of the presser foot.

• You can have control of narrow tucks by moving your needle position, left or right, letting

your presser foot hold the fabric.

• Use a presser foot with a flat underside and a wide area to move needle position.

49

Quilt Block # 9

Lengthwise Fold

Trace this design onto

your fabric, centering on

the center pintuck, for lace

shaping.

Bold line is pinstitching

line, dotted line is inside

or second stitching line.

50

1. Trace this bow design onto one of your 6” fabric squares.

Heart Appliqué—Block # 9

2. Once you have stitched

your bow, trim 1/4” away from

the stitching on the outside

edge.

3. Clip and notch before turning.

4. Trace the rest of the lines onto your

bow with a washout marking pen.

51

`t~|Çz çÉâÜ ftá{|Çz fàÜ|Ñá`t~|Çz çÉâÜ ftá{|Çz fàÜ|Ñá`t~|Çz çÉâÜ ftá{|Çz fàÜ|Ñá`t~|Çz çÉâÜ ftá{|Çz fàÜ|Ñá

You may choose from two different applications on your sashing. You may use

lace insertion in the middle of your strip, or you may choose to insert beading

with a narrow ribbon, giving your quilt a little more color.

2.

1.

3.

You will need 24 strips, finished 13” long.

• Cut 8 pieces of batiste, 4” wide by the width of your fabric.

• Starch and press well.

• With washout marking pen, mark a line down the length of the

fabric, 2 1/4” from one edge (1).

• Cut enough 2” wide stabilizer strips until you have about

10 yards.

• Prewind 3 to 5 bobbins.

• Prepare your machine for lace insertion. Put in a wing needle,

rayon thread on the top, and set up for pinstitching. You may use

a zigzag if your machine does not have the pinstitch.

• Place the stabilizer under the first strip of fabric. Line the

insertion lace (or beading) on top of the fabric, next to the line

you have drawn. Stitch down this side, the full length of the strip.

Repeat on the other side of the lace.

• Repeat the above until all 8 strips have been sewn (2).

• Remove stabilizer.

• Carefully cut-away fabric from behind lace.

• With water, remove lines.

• Starch and press fabric again.

• Set your machine up for pintucks. Insert the double needle, 2.0

width, thread two spools of thread on the top, and wind at least

three bobbins. Stitch length should be between 1.5 and 2.0.

Change the upper tension to 5 - 6.

• Stitch a row of pintucks on each side of the lace insertion. Stitch

a total of three rows on each side, placing the last pintuck in the

outside groove of the pintuck foot. Repeat until this is completed

on all eight strips (3). The pintucks will take up about 1/2”

fabric, leaving you an exact 3 1/2” wide strip.

• Press.

• Cut each strip into three 13” long strips. Trim your width to an

exact 3 1/2”. When finished you will have 24, 13” long, by

3 1/2” wide strips (4).

• Set aside while you make the small sashing squares.

4.

52

1.

`t~|Çz à{x fÅtÄÄ ftá{|Çz fÖâtÜxá`t~|Çz à{x fÅtÄÄ ftá{|Çz fÖâtÜxá`t~|Çz à{x fÅtÄÄ ftá{|Çz fÖâtÜxá`t~|Çz à{x fÅtÄÄ ftá{|Çz fÖâtÜxá

These small squares add interest and tie the

quilt together.

4.

You are going to need 16 , 3 1/2” squares to stitch between the

sashing and blocks.

• Cut a piece of batiste, 18” X 18”.

• Starch and press well.

• Fold over, corner to opposite corner, for the true bias as shown.

Press a crease. Now press the other direction, and press a

crease. Bias refers to the diagonal between the lengthwise and

crosswise grain lines (1).

• With a washout marking pen, draw a line on each fold.

• Starting with one of the lines, draw continuous parallel lines on

both sides of the original, 1” apart. Repeat this for the line

going the opposite direction (2).

• Stitch pintucks on each of these lines. To save time and

threads, stitch to the end of a line, lift the presser foot lever to

release the tension, lift the needles, shift fabric, and begin in the

opposite direction. Stitch again to the end of the line, lift the

presser foot and needles, shift fabric, and stitch a line in another

direction. Keep repeating this until all your lines have been

stitched.

• Because you want to finish with 1/2” pintucks, you need to go

back and pintuck between all the rows. Just eyeball it, running

your presser foot down the middle of each row until all the

rows have been filled in (3).

• Press lightly.

• With washout marking pen, draw 16, 3 1/2” squares on your

pintucked fabric, using your quilters grid ruler.

• If you want to embellish these squares, it is easiest to complete

it now prior to their being cut apart.

• Cut out the squares from your pintucked piece (5).

• Set aside until you are ready to put the entire quilt top together.

2.

3.

5.

53

câàà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|Äà gÉÑ gÉzxà{xÜcâàà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|Äà gÉÑ gÉzxà{xÜcâàà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|Äà gÉÑ gÉzxà{xÜcâàà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|Äà gÉÑ gÉzxà{xÜ

It’s exciting to see it come together!

• Gather up all your pieces, and lay your quilt top out on a large surface.

• You have nine large, 13” square blocks - you may arrange these in any position you would like.

I like to position them separating the techniques, colors, or size of design...whatever is pleasing

to you.

• You have 24 strips for sashing. These strips go between the blocks.

• You have 16 small, bias pintuck squares. These will go in between the sashing strips.

• Once you have decided upon your block placement, stitch a sashing strip to the right side of every

square. You may want to do this one row at a time so you don’t lose your placement. Use a 1/4”

seam allowance.

• Now sew the left hand strip onto the first block in each row, and stitch the rest of the row together.

• Stitch a long row of horizontal strips together, with the small bias blocks in between each one, and

on the end. Your will have small block, strip, small block, strip, small block, strip, and small block.

Make 4 of these longer strips.

• Stitch the longer strips to the rows of squares, taking care in matching the small center blocks with

the vertical strips.

• Your quilt top is complete! You are now ready to prepare the ruffled edge.

54

6.

cÜxÑtÜ|Çz à{x bâàá|wx eâyyÄxcÜxÑtÜ|Çz à{x bâàá|wx eâyyÄxcÜxÑtÜ|Çz à{x bâàá|wx eâyyÄxcÜxÑtÜ|Çz à{x bâàá|wx eâyyÄx

You have three options for the outside ruffle. You may make your

own out of your fabric, following the directions below, or you may

purchase pregathered lace to sew on, or you may purchase flat lace

which you will gather and then sew on.

• Cut nine strips of batiste, the width of the fabric (42” - 45”),

by 4” wide. Nine strips will make 1 1/2 time fullness. If you

like lots of gathers, you will need to prepare 12 strips for

double fullness.

• Sew all of the strips together in a long line, using 1/4” seam

allowance.

• Press and starch the entire length.

• With washout marking pen, mark a line 1 3/8” in from the

edge to use as a guide for your fancy machine stitch (1).

• Stitch out your fancy machine stitch using stabilizer

underneath (2).

• Remove the stabilizer.

• Remove the water marks.

• Press your strip, stretching if necessary for fabric to lay flat.

• Stitch the two ends together to form a circle.

• Press the width of the entire piece in half so your piece is now

2” wide (3).

• Following the instructions on page 21, apply the machine shell

stitch to the folded edge of the ruffle.

• Stitch two rows of gathering threads with a stitch length of 4.0,

1/8” and 3/8” from the edge, gathering page 59 (4).

• Divide the length of the ruffle into eight equal parts and mark

each point with a pin.

• Now mark the center of each side of your quilt top with a pin.

• Match the pins on the ruffle to the four corners and the four

center pins on the quilt top.

• Pull the bobbin threads and gather the extra fullness in to fit.

• Adjust the gathers evenly, allowing more fullness in the

corners so the ruffle will lay flat when turned outward. Pin to

hold the gathers in place.

• Stitch 1/4” from edge all the way around the quilt. I like to

serge or zigzag this edge after stitching to prevent fraying and

to help hold the gathers straight (5, 6).

• Remove any original gathering stitches that show on the ruffle

finished side after it has been stitched on.

• You are now ready to put the layers together.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

55

câàà|Çz à{x dâ|Äà _tçxÜá gÉzxà{xÜcâàà|Çz à{x dâ|Äà _tçxÜá gÉzxà{xÜcâàà|Çz à{x dâ|Äà _tçxÜá gÉzxà{xÜcâàà|Çz à{x dâ|Äà _tçxÜá gÉzxà{xÜ

• Measure the length and width of your quilt top.

• Cut backing fabric, batting, and interlining fabric the exact

size of your quilt top. You may do this by measurements, or

by actually laying the quilt top on top of the pieces to be cut.

• Lay the four layers together in this order:

Batting on the bottom

Underlining fabric

Quilt top, facing up

Backing fabric, facing down

• Pin the four layers together, all the way around the quilt.

• Stitch, using a 1/4” seam allowance all the way around the

quilt. This stitching should be exactly over the ruffle

stitching. Leave a 12” opening on one side to allow you to

turn it right side out.

• Clip across the corners to prevent bulk when turning.

• Turn the quilt right side out through the opening.

• Hand slip stitch the opening closed.

UÉÉ~ÅtÜ~á YÜÉÅ lÉâÜ fvÜtÑáUÉÉ~ÅtÜ~á YÜÉÅ lÉâÜ fvÜtÑáUÉÉ~ÅtÜ~á YÜÉÅ lÉâÜ fvÜtÑáUÉÉ~ÅtÜ~á YÜÉÅ lÉâÜ fvÜtÑá Always save your scraps and edges you may have cut off when sewing

heirloom. You can easily turn them into lovely bookmarks...and they

are great to have on hand for gift giving.

• Begin with a 3” X 7” fabric scrap.

• Stitch your favorite techniques to decorate it. Do not trim out

your laces from the backside.

• Follow the package directions, and apply Heat’n’Bond Ultra Hold

to the back side of your fabric.

• Peel off the paper backing and adhere to your backing fabric.

• Trim your bookmark to 2” wide by 6 1/2” long.

• You may add embroidery floss or silk ribbon to the top end.

• Variations: Try rounding the corners, changing the size, or laminating.

56

How to Topstitch:

• Increase the length of your stitches to 3.5.

• Line the edge of the presser foot up with the seam

line or your outline. This will make your stitching

3/8” away from the seam or object. Move your

needle position to make the stitching wider or

narrower.

• Stitch, being careful that your stitching is straight, as

it will show.

• Do not backstitch, as it will show from the right side.

When possible, pull your top thread through to the

backside and tie a square knot (page 10). Thread the

thread tail ends onto a hand sewing needle and run it

between the layers of fabric. Then clip threads close

to fabric.

fà|àv{ \Ç g{x W|àv{ dâ|Äà|Çzfà|àv{ \Ç g{x W|àv{ dâ|Äà|Çzfà|àv{ \Ç g{x W|àv{ dâ|Äà|Çzfà|àv{ \Ç g{x W|àv{ dâ|Äà|Çz Stitch in the ditch is a technique you will be using in garment sewing

as well as for quilting projects. It is used to secure, to hide stitching,

and to attach layers of fabrics together.

To stitch in the ditch, you stitch from the top side of your

fabric into the ditch (or groove) made from your seam after it

has been pressed to one side. This stitching will actually go

into the stitching of the original seam. It will blend in and not

be noticeable from the top side if you stitch straight, and if

your thread closely matches your fabric.

gÉÑáà|àv{|Çz bÇ lÉâÜ dâ|ÄàgÉÑáà|àv{|Çz bÇ lÉâÜ dâ|ÄàgÉÑáà|àv{|Çz bÇ lÉâÜ dâ|ÄàgÉÑáà|àv{|Çz bÇ lÉâÜ dâ|Äà Topstitching is stitching applied to the right side of the fabric. It is used for

decoration as well as to help hold the different layers of fabric and batting in

place. Traditionally, you would match your thread color to the color of your

quilt, but if you want to make the topstitching stand out and add detail, you

may use a different colored thread.

57

dâ|Äà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|Äàdâ|Äà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|Äàdâ|Äà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|Äàdâ|Äà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|Äà

This is the last step to completing your quilt….and

you’ll be surprised how quickly this step goes.

Congratulations, you have a beautiful quilt!

• Lay your quilt out flat on a large surface area.

• To prevent your layers from moving on you while quilting the layers together, carefully

place safety pins near all seam lines where you will be quilting.

• Also, put safety pins within the blocks to prevent shifting. The key is to use lots of pins.

• Once everything is pinned, take your quilt to your machine. Increase the stitch length to

3.5. A walking foot for your machine will make the stitching much easier and smoother,

and will pull the fabrics through evenly.

• Using the stitch-in-the-ditch method, page 53, stitch all the sashing and sashing square

seam lines.

• Topstitch within each block according to the diagrams below.

• When finished, you’ll want to be sure to spray your quilt with water to remove any traces

of the washout marking pen.

58

You will be making garments that will require you to know how to sew

on buttons and make buttonholes. There are 2 types of buttons: shank

and sew-through. You must make your own shank when using

flat, sew-through buttons.

Buttons with shanks have a part

which extends below the button

and allows room for the

buttonhole to fit without

puckering.

Flat, sew-through buttons with

holes and without shanks are

more common. There are usually

two or four holes in a flat button.

You will need to make your own thread shank when sewing flat

buttons.

For both types, start with a double

strand of thread in your needle,

about 20 inches long. Tie a knot

in the end of the thread.

From the wrong side of the fabric,

bring up the needle and thread

exactly where you want the center

of the button.

For shank buttons: bring the

thread through the hole in the

shank, then down through the

fabric very close to where the first

thread entered.

Repeat this procedure, up from

the bottom, through the shank,

down the fabric, five or six times.

Secure the threads underneath the

button by taking about three small

stitches in one place, then running

the needle between the layers of

fabric and back down to the wrong side, about 1/2 inch away.

Clip the thread.

For a flat button: bring the needle

and thread up through the fabric

where you want the center of the

button to be placed, and then

through one hole in the button.

Place a toothpick on top of the

button, between the holes. Sew

over the toothpick as you take the

thread down through the other

holes and on through the fabric. Repeat this process five times.

Bring up the thread through the

fabric, but not the button.

Remove the toothpick. Lift the

button to the top of the stitches,

and you will notice that there is a thread space between the button

and fabric.

Wind the thread tightly around

that thread space, three times to

form the shank. Take your needle

back through to the back side of

your fabric.

Secure the threads underneath by

taking about three small stitches

in one spot, then running the

needle between the layers of

fabric and back down to the wrong side, about 1/2 inch away.

Clip your thread.

fxã|Çz ÉÇ t UâààÉÇfxã|Çz ÉÇ t UâààÉÇfxã|Çz ÉÇ t UâààÉÇfxã|Çz ÉÇ t UâààÉÇ

59

1.

3.

4.

5.

`t~|Çz UâààÉÇ{ÉÄxá`t~|Çz UâààÉÇ{ÉÄxá`t~|Çz UâààÉÇ{ÉÄxá`t~|Çz UâààÉÇ{ÉÄxá

You will be making machine buttonholes on your garments. They are

suitable for almost all fabrics, and are durable. Every machine

has different buttonhole features, so you must follow the directions

in your machine handbook.

A Few Tips on Buttonholes:

• Buttonholes should always be made before sewing on buttons.

• Horizontal buttonholes should be used at points of strain, such as down the front of your

garment, cuffs and waistbands.

• Confine your use of vertical buttonholes to loosely fitting garments, as a decorative

feature, or down a front band. They tend to come undone when the opening is put under

strain.

• When using a series of buttons, always use an odd number (3, 5 or 7, not 6).

• Always use interfacing between the layers of your fabric and facing to prevent bulging

buttonholes. Your buttonholes will also turn out straighter.

• For a stronger buttonhole, stitch over the buttonhole a second time after cutting it open.

• Use a matching permanent ink marking pen on the inside of the buttonhole to prevent

the white interfacing threads from showing on colored fabrics.

Calculating and Marking your Buttonholes:

• The length of the buttonhole is determined

by measuring the diameter of the button (1)

and adding to this measurement the thickness

of the button (2). It is best to make a trial

sample on a scrap of fabric to check the length

and see if the button will slide through it nicely.

• Mark your buttonholes from the placement

guidelines on your pattern.

• You will mark three placement lines on your garment

for each buttonhole (3). Mark the beginning and

the end of the buttonhole, and directly down the

middle. As a rule of thumb, the beginning of each

horizontal buttonhole should begin 5/8” from the

edge. This is approximately 1/8” past the garment

center front or center back. Vertical buttonholes

should be exactly on the center line.

• Practice stitching out several buttonholes according

to the directions in your instruction manual (4).

• Carefully use a seam ripper to open your

buttonhole. Place a pin across each end at the

bar tacks to help prevent cutting too far (5).

2.

60

8.

bÄw Ytá{|ÉÇxw c|ÄÄÉãbÄw Ytá{|ÉÇxw c|ÄÄÉãbÄw Ytá{|ÉÇxw c|ÄÄÉãbÄw Ytá{|ÉÇxw c|ÄÄÉã We have chosen Block 5, and turned it into a pinwheel

design to make this side buttoned throw pillow. You may

select your favorite block to make this pillow.

1.

5.

4.

Materials and Supplies:

• 1 1/2 yard batiste

• Stuffing

Make Your Fabric and Lace Block:

• Cut a variety of laces, beading, entredeux and fabrics about 16” long.

Cut enough so that when they are sewn together they will make a

sewn strip at least 7” wide.

• Lay your laces out into an interesting placement. It’s nice to use

entredeux next to fabrics and embroidered lace (1).

• Press your all your laces, and press and starch the fabric.

• Following the directions on page 16 and 17, stitch your laces

together. Look for specific directions on the following:

..Joining fabric to entredeux

..Joining flat lace to entredeux

..Joining flat lace to flat lace (2, 3)

..Joining embroidered lace to fabric

..Joining fabric to lace insertion

• Be sure to note the stitch length and stitch width for each application.

If you “missed” a spot when stitching, simply go over it again. If you

are use an extra fine sewing thread that matches your fabric, it will not

show and you need not take the original stitching out.

• Always use stabilizer, and begin in the middle or center lace.

Remember that after you stitch on a piece of lace, turn and stitch the

next lace in the other direction. This will prevent your piece from

shifting.

• If you used a fabric strip, you may want to add pintucks or machine

embroidery to make it more interesting. Complete that process at this

time.

• If you used beading, insert your ribbon now. Remove stabilizer (4).

• Your strip is now approximately 7” wide and about 16” long.

• Press and starch well.

• Cut your strip into two, 7” squares (5).

• Now cut your squares in half diagonally (6).

• Cut two, 7” square fabric pieces.

• Press and starch these fabric pieces.

• Cut these fabric squares in half diagonally.

• Lay your fabric pieces and lace pieces out as in the design shown (7).

• Stitch the diagonal pieces together first. Trim seams to 1/8” and zigzag

the edges. Press toward the fabric.

• Sew the squares together, pressing toward fabric.

• Add any embellishment to your block at this time.

3.

6.

7.

• 12 buttons (1/2”)

• Rayon thread

• 18” X 18” batting

• Laces

2.

61

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

8. • Trim your block to a finished 13’” square.

• Give the block a good starching and pressing.

Make the Pillow Cover:

• Cut a 2” wide strip of fabric, the width of your fabric (45”) for

borders.

• Sew the strip to two sides of your square at 1/4” seam allowance, and

trim ends even.

• Now sew the strip to the top and bottom edges. Trim ends even (8).

• Mark a line 1/2” from the inside border seam line.

• Stitch a fancy machine stitch all the way around. Be sure to use

stabilizer.

• Cut two more pieces of fabric, and one piece of batting the exact size

of this top square.

• Layer: Top block facing down, lining, batting, and then backing.

• Turn all layers over as one, and pin in place. You will be treating

these as one piece from now on (9).

• Quilt this layered piece by stitching in the ditch, page 53, along all

seams.

• Cut: two 33” X 8 1/2” pieces of fabric, two 33” X 8 1/4” pieces of

interfacing. Starch and press fabric.

• Draw a line on the fabric pieces, with washout marking pen, 3 3/4”

from the outside edge (10).

• Stitch a fancy machine stitch along this line (11), using stabilizer.

• Press a fold down the middle of the length of the strips.

• Apply a machine shell stitch to the folded edge—see page 21 (12).

• Insert interfacing. Pin in place.

• Draw a line with washout marking pen 2” from folded edge, on the

right side of the fabric. Press a crease on this line.

• Stitch a tuck, 1/4” from the crease. Press tuck towards outer edge

(13). Set these pieces aside for the moment.

• Cut a backing piece of fabric, the exact size of your quilted square.

• Line up the back and front pieces. Pin and stitch one edge using a 1/4”

seam allowance and then zigzagging the edge. Press (14).

• Lay your square and backing open, and stitch the side pieces onto both

sides (15).

• Top side up, measure, mark, and stitch six buttonholes, lengthwise

direction, down both side fronts. Place these 3/4” from the seam line.

See page 56 (16).

• Pin and stitch the bottom edge of the pillow top together, 1/4”, and

zigzag the edge.

• Mark button placement, and sew on buttons (17). See page 55. Make the Pillow Form: Finished Size: 13” X 13” square

• Cut two pieces of fabric, 13 1/2” X 13 1/2” square.

• Lay out and pin together. Stitch around outside

edge, leaving a 4” opening on one side for stuffing

the pillow (18).

• Clip corners and turn right side out.

• Stuff with batting.

• By hand, slip stitch opening closed.

62

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Ztà{xÜ|Çz YtuÜ|vZtà{xÜ|Çz YtuÜ|vZtà{xÜ|Çz YtuÜ|vZtà{xÜ|Çz YtuÜ|v

Gathering (also easing), is what you do to make a longer piece of fabric

fit a shorter piece of fabric. It is used in many applications, including

waistlines, sleeves, ruffles, and edging. The following steps will produce

nice looking, evenly spaced gathers that will lay flat.

How to Gather:

• Do not starch your fabric. • To baste stitch, set the stitch length to about 4 or 5.

This should give you around six stitches per inch.

• Stitch one row of baste stitching on the piece to

be gathered, right side up, 1/2” from the edge of the

fabric, and another row 3/4” from the edge of the fabric.

• Do not backstitch, and leave the thread tails long (1).

• With right sides together, pin the section to be

gathered to the shorter one, matching and pinning at

notches, seams, and markings (2).

• Fasten the bobbin threads at one end by wrapping

them around a pin in a figure 8 fashion (3).

• Gently pull the bobbin threads from the other end of the

gathering piece until it fits the shorter section (4).

• Distribute the gathers evenly and pin in place. Place

your pins into the body of the fabric (5).

• Stitch with the gathered side up, right down the middle

of the two basting rows (6). This will make the finished

stitching at 5/8”. Be careful to not let tucks form.

• Once you are satisfied with your finished seam, take

the pin with the wrapped thread ends out, and pull

once again on the bobbin threads from the other end

until they are removed. You may now simply lift off

the top layer of basting threads, leaving a nicely

finished seam (7).

• If you like, you may stitch basting threads in a

contrasting color, since they will be removed, making

it easier to see where to put the final stitching.

7.

63

10.

1. 2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

c|Ñ|Çz T fxtÅc|Ñ|Çz T fxtÅc|Ñ|Çz T fxtÅc|Ñ|Çz T fxtÅ Piping is used to accentuate a construction feature or design lines on your

garment. It gives your garment a lovely, tailored, expensive look. You may

select a matching or contrasting color, depending upon the application.

Though you can make your own piping, it is fairly inexpensive to purchase

ready made. Piping is made by folding a bias strip around a cotton filler cord,

and stitching it onto your garment next to the cord.

Applying Piping to Your Garment:

• Put a zipper foot onto your machine. This foot

will allow you to stitch close to the cording (1).

• Pin and stitch the piping to the right side of

your garment on the seam line, using a normal

stitch length. Lay the corded edge towards

the main body of the piece, and place the bias

edge into the seam line (2).

• To finish the ends, pull fabric back 1 1/2”

on the piping, exposing the filler cord (3).

• Cut the filler cord off just inside the end of the

opening, leaving the fabric covering intact (4).

• Fold in the bias ends and re-stitch the piping

enclosing the filler cord (5).

• Pin in place, right sides together, the other

garment piece that is to be joined to the piped

edge (6).

• Stitch with the side that shows your previous

stitching on the top, over the same line of

stitching (7).

• Clip or notch curves and corners.

• Press.

Apply piping on an edge without a closing:

• Take out some stitches, and pull the fabric back

1 1/2” on the piping, exposing the filler cord.

• Cut filler cord off just inside the end of the opening,

leaving the fabric covering intact (8).

• Fold the bias tape end inside itself 1/2”.

• Bring the other end up and clip it off just where it

meets the clipped end of the filler cord (9).

• Fold the loose bias over the top of this end, and

stitch in place (10).

64

Utuç XÇáxÅuÄx Utuç XÇáxÅuÄx Utuç XÇáxÅuÄx Utuç XÇáxÅuÄx @@@@ \ÇytÇà f|é|Çz \ÇytÇà f|é|Çz \ÇytÇà f|é|Çz \ÇytÇà f|é|Çz The next few pages will show you how to make a baby bonnet, panties, slip,

dresses, booties, and headbands. All of these patterns will be based on the

following measurements and baby weights.

After weighing and measuring your

baby, compare your baby’s

measurements with the measurements on

this chart to find out what size pattern

you will want to cut out.

Baby Baby Baby

Size Size Weight Height

0-3 months NB 8 - 12 lbs 18 - 24”

6 months S 13 - 17 lbs 25 - 26”

9 months M 18 - 21 lbs 27 - 28”

12 months L 22 - 25 lbs 29 - 30”

18 months XL 26 - 29 lbs 31 - 32”

fàtÇwtÜw `xtáâÜxÅxÇàá tÇw f|é|Çz V{tÜàfàtÇwtÜw `xtáâÜxÅxÇàá tÇw f|é|Çz V{tÜàfàtÇwtÜw `xtáâÜxÅxÇàá tÇw f|é|Çz V{tÜàfàtÇwtÜw `xtáâÜxÅxÇàá tÇw f|é|Çz V{tÜà

Use these charts to determine your size for patterns in this book.

Girls sizes in inches

Misses Sizes in Inches

Size 6 8 10 12 14 16

Chest 25 27 28 1/2 30 32 34

Waist 22 23 1/2 24 1/2 25 1/2 26 1/2 27 1/2

Size 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

Bust 30 1/2 31 1/2 32 1/2 34 36 38 40 42

Waist 23 24 25 26 1/2 28 30 32 34

`xtáâÜxÅxÇàá tÇw f|éxá`xtáâÜxÅxÇàá tÇw f|éxá`xtáâÜxÅxÇàá tÇw f|éxá`xtáâÜxÅxÇàá tÇw f|éxá

65

fãxxà Utuç WÜxáá fãxxà Utuç WÜxáá fãxxà Utuç WÜxáá fãxxà Utuç WÜxáá Little girl dresses are fun to make.

We show you two different versions

using the same pattern, simply

changing the color, stitches, ribbon,

and other embellishments.

Materials and Supplies:

• 2 yards batiste

• 1 1/4 yards edging lace

• 5 yards 1/4” ribbon

• Rayon thread

• 3 flat buttons

• 1/4 yard of sew-in interfacing

• 1/8” wide elastic

Instructions:

• From fabric, cut out one front piece on fold, and two back pieces on fold.

Patterns are on pages 67 and 68.

• From fabric cut one rectangular piece on the fold, for the embellished

front, 1” taller than the height of the bodice front pattern, and 3” wider

than the width of the bodice front pattern.

• Cut two fabric rectangles on fold, 1” wider and 1/2” taller than the sleeve

pattern on page 69.

• Embellish the bodice front rectangles as follows:

Purple dress: Figure 1

..With washout marking pen draw the bodice front onto your

rectangle.

..Draw a line 2 1/2” up from lower edge of the bodice.

..Starting at the center front, draw 30 degree diagonal lines

3/4” apart between the line and the lower edge of bodice,

making a sideways diamond shape.

..Satin stitch, with rayon thread, using a 0.3 stitch length and

4.0 stitch width, over the diagonal lines. Be sure to use

stabilizer underneath.

..Sew 1/4” ribbon to the straight line at the top of the

diamonds, stitching both edges of the ribbon with a straight

stitch.

Mint dress: Figure 2

..Find some fancy machine stitches, and stitch a grouping of

stitches 3” wide, centered on the center front fold.

..With washout marking pen, mark a line 5/8” from the last

fancy stitch, on both sides.

..Straight stitch 3/16” from the fold. This makes your first

tuck.

2.

1.

Finished Skirt Elastic

Length Length

Newborn 10 1/2” 13”

Small 11 1/2” 13 1/2” Medium 12 1/2” 14”

Large 13 1/2” 14 1/2”

X Large 14 1/2” 15”

66

Front

Front

8.

9.

7.

6.

5.

4.

3.

10.

..Mark five more continuous fold lines, 7/8” from the first

one, and stitch 3/16” tucks on each one. Repeat for the

other side.

..Press all tucks toward the outside from the center.

• From your embellished rectangle, cut out a front piece, centering on the

fold (3).

• Starch and press the fronts flat, starch and press the backs in half on

the fold.

• To make the optional collar - purple dress:

..Cut two rectangles, 2” wider and 2” longer than the collar

pattern.

..Trace the pattern onto the top layer of fabric.

..Using stabilizer underneath, satin stitch with rayon

thread, and using a 6.0 stitch width, 0.3 stitch length, over

the outside collar edge (4).

..Change your stitch width to 3.0 and satin stitch the inner

design line.

..Fray check the outside stitching from the back side. Let

dry completely (5).

..Trim away the fabric right next to the stitching, then satin

stitch it again on the trimmed edge, using same settings.

..Lay this over your embellished bodice front, and sew it into

the shoulder seams with your front and back pieces (6).

• Pin front and back shoulder seams (with optional collar) and stitch

at 5/8” (7).

• Trim all 4 seams to 1/4” and press open.

• Right sides together, fold in half, folding at the center back fold line.

• Pin a 1” X 4” piece of interfacing, next to the bodice back center fold

line. This is reinforcement for the buttons and buttonholes.

• Pin and stitch at 5/8”, the neckline seam (8).

• Clip the neckline curve, trim the seam to 1/4”, turn right side out,

and press.

• To make the round, lace-edged neckline - mint dress: Figure 9.

..Stitch lace around the neckline edge, 1/4” from edge.

..Satin stitch, stitch length 0.3 and stitch width 4.0 over the

neck edge and edge of lace, or you may use 1/8” ribbon to

cover the stitched edge of the lace.

• Find the two sleeve rectangles, and embellish them as follows:

Purple dress: Figure 10.

..Mark two straight lines, 1” on each side of the center fold.

..Draw diagonal lines between these 2 lines 3/4” apart at a

30 degree angle.

..Satin stitch on these diagonal lines, this time using a 3.0

stitch width, and 0.3 stitch length. Be sure to use

stabilizer underneath.

..Stitch ribbon onto the straight lines on both sides of

the diagonal.

back back

67

20.

19.

18.

17.

16

Mint dress: Figure 11

..Mark a line right on the center fold.

..Stitch a fancy machine stitch on this line.

..Mark lines for three tucks on each side of the fancy

stitching, making them all 7/8” apart.

..Individually, press each of them back, and stitch a

3/16” tuck.

..Press all tucks toward the outside from the center.

• Take your sleeve pattern, and cut out your sleeves from the

embellished rectangles (12).

• Apply edging lace to the bottom of the sleeve. Zigzag lace edge to

sleeve edge, right sides together. Press toward fabric and topstitch.

• Stitch 1/8” elastic to the sleeve, placing it 1/4” above the lace edging.

Cut the elastic to length (see chart), and stretch it as you sew it on

with a narrow zigzag stitch (13).

• Gather the top edge of the sleeve, between notches, and sew the

sleeve seam at 5/8” seam allowance, treating the bodice fabric and

lining as one piece. See gathering instructions on page 59 (14).

• Trim seam to 1/4”, and serge or zigzag the edges together. Seam lays

into the sleeve.

• Sew the underarm sleeve and underarm bodice seams. Trim and

zigzag or serge finish the edge (15).

Making the skirt:

• Take your leftover fabric, and square up one end.

• Stitch ends of leftover fabric piece on the squared end (page 7) at

5/8” seam allowance, 6” up from the bottom edge (16).

• Turn and press up the bottom hem, 2” all the way around the skirt.

Now fold it under again and press.

• Take the hem to your machine, and stitch 1/4” from the fold edge of

the last turn (17). You now have your first row of 3 tucks, and the

hem is enclosed inside of it.

• Open up the skirt, and press this tuck downward.

• Mark a line 3/4” above the tuck stitching line. Fold and press

this line.

• Stitch 1/4” from the edge of the fold. Open up and press downward.

• Repeat this same step one more time so you have three rows of tucks.

• With washout marking pen, mark a line 1/4” above the stitching from

the last row of tucks.

• Stitch 1/4” ribbon on this line.

• Mark another line 1/2” above the ribbon line.

• Find a fancy machine stitch to stitch out on this line.

• Cut length according to the chart, page 62, and add 5/8” for seam

allowance.

• Finish sewing up the back to within 3” of the top.

• Press seam open, and continue pressing the 5/8” all the way up

the 3” area left unstitched (20).

15.

14.

13.

12.

11.

68

24.

23.

21.

YÜ|ÄÄç fÉv~áYÜ|ÄÄç fÉv~áYÜ|ÄÄç fÉv~áYÜ|ÄÄç fÉv~á Quick! Fun! Cute! A must for all little girls.

Materials and Supplies:

• 1 yard flat lace, polyester or rayon...not cotton (it wrinkles!).

• 1 pair of socks, with a cuff...any color

• 1/2 yard colored 1/4” ribbon.

Instructions:

• Beginning at the center back, stretch the bottom edge of the cuff

and zigzag stitch, the edge of the lace to the cuff using machine

settings of about 1.5 stitch length and 2.0 stitch width (2).

• When finished, overlap ends of the lace and zigzag down the

middle of the overlap. Trim off excess on each side of the

overlap.

• You may stitch up to three rows of lace, 1/4” apart, for a fuller

look (allow one extra yard of lace for each additional row). Or,

you may purchase wider, double edge lace, and stitch it onto the

sock. Stitch down the middle of the lace.

• You may add a ribbon bow to the outside cuff (3).

• Note: Pregathered lace is not satisfactory. The stitching edge is

too heavy or too wide, and makes the lace edge too bulky.

• Topstitch 1/4” from the fold, the 3” open end to make a center back

opening (21).

• Stitch gathering threads at 1/2” and 3/4” along the top of the skirt.

• Adjust gathering threads on the width of the skirt piece along the top

edge. Pin and stitch it to the lower edge of the bodice, beginning by

offsetting the skirt piece 3/4” in on the right back side only, and

continuing to the seam on the left side back (22, 23).

• Once it is stitched in place, trim the seam, zigzag or serge the edge,

and press the seam upward.

• Topstitch the seam in place.

• Sew 1/4” ribbon around the entire bodice placing the lower edge of

the ribbon on the bodice/skirt seam. Straight stitch both edges of

the ribbon.

• Finish the dress by stitching the buttonholes into the bodice back

(page 56). Make 3 buttonholes, with the top one placed 5/8” from

the neckline finished edge, the bottom one 5/8” from skirt seam, and

the third one half way between the two. Set them 1/2” in on the left

back fold. Sew the buttons on by hand, (page 55).

• Cute dress completed! (24)

22.

1.

2.

3.

69

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

fÑxv|tÄ bvvtá|ÉÇ Utuç WÜxááfÑxv|tÄ bvvtá|ÉÇ Utuç WÜxááfÑxv|tÄ bvvtá|ÉÇ Utuç WÜxááfÑxv|tÄ bvvtá|ÉÇ Utuç WÜxáá Turn this dress into a baptismal or dedication gown, or

just dress it up for a special occasion!

Use the patterns, and follow the instructions for the Sweet Baby Dress

version making the following adjustments and additions:

• Cut the skirt length according to the chart to the right. This finished

length is for a dedication gown. If your child is walking, you may

want to use the chart on page 62. Feel free to cut it out of eyelet lace

for a different look.

• Bodice embellishment: Figure 1.

..Stitch a fancy machine stitch down the center front of your

rectangular piece.

..Make five rows of tucks on each side of your fancy stitching.

..Begin by marking lines 3/4” apart on each side of the center

front with a washout marking pen.

..Press back on each of these lines, and straight stitch 3/16” from

the folded edge. Repeat for all 5 tucks on each side of center.

..Press all the tucks from the center toward the outside.

..Center the pattern on the rectangle and cut out bodice front.

• Sleeve embellishment: Figure 2.

..Using the same fancy stitch, stitch it out on the sleeve center

fold.

..Press and then stitch out one tuck on each side of the fancy

stitch. Mark the line for the fold 5/8” from the center of the

fancy stitch and stitch it as a 3/16” tuck.

• Longer Christening or Dedication gown: Figure 3.

..If you are adding length to the skirt, you will want to

add more details at the hemline. Add an additional 6” to your

chosen finished length. (measurement from chart, extra length,

plus 6”)

..Instead of three rows of tucks, stitch five rows.

..Add three rows of pintucks.

..One row of 1/8” ribbon.

..Finish the embellishing with one or two rows of fancy

machine stitching.

• Make ties for the back, cutting a width of fabric, 3” wide.

..Using the double rolled hem foot on your sewing machine,

make a narrow hem on both sides of the long edges.

..Cut the strip in the middle (4).

..Cut the other end of the strip at a 45 degree angle, so you are

cutting off the starts of your rolled hem.

..Zigzag stitch lace onto the 45 degree angle (do not cut lace

ends).

..Mark a line 1/2” up from the lace, and stitch on a row of

1/8” ribbon.

..Fray check the ends of the ribbon and lace. Let dry completely

and then trim them even with the folded edge (5).

..Tuck the other end of the tie strip, and insert it into the bodice

side seam, stitching it in place when you stitch the side seam (6).

Finished Length:

NB 18”

S 19 1/2”

M 21” L 22 1/2”

XL 2”

70

Pintucks & Lace

Sweet Baby Dress

Special Occasion Dress

Bodice Front

Cut 1 on Fold

Cut 1 on Fold from

Embellished Rectangle

5/8” seam allowance

Sizes NB - X L Place on Fold

Size/Cutting Line Guide:

X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

71

Pintucks & Lace

Sweet Baby Dress

Special Occasion Dress

Bodice Back

Cut 2 on Fold

5/8” seam allowance

Sizes NB - X L Place o

n Fold

Center B

ack

Size/Cutting Line Guide:

X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

72

Pintucks & Lace

Sweet Baby Dress

Special Occasion Dress

Sleeve

Cut 2 on Fold from

Embellished Rectangle

5/8” seam allowance

Sizes NB - X L

Size/Cutting Line Guide:

Place on Fold

X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

73

Place on Fold

Sweet Baby Dress

Collar

Cut 2 Fabric on Fold

Cut 1 Interfacing on Fold

Sizes Newborn, Medium

X Large

You will be cutting a

rectangle on the fold. Trace

your pattern size onto one

rectangle.

Bold black lines are the

outside satin stitching

line.

Gray lines are the inside

satin stitching line

Sweet Baby Dress

Collar

Cut 2 Fabric on Fold

Cut 1 Interfacing on Fold

Sizes Small, Large

Place on Fold

Size Guidelines:

X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

74

8.

7.

6.

5.

4.

3.

2.

1.

Wt|Çàç Utuç fÄ|Ñ Wt|Çàç Utuç fÄ|Ñ Wt|Çàç Utuç fÄ|Ñ Wt|Çàç Utuç fÄ|Ñ

Just as pretty as the overdress!

Materials and Supplies:

• 1 yards batiste

• 2 flat buttons

• 1 1/2” X 4” piece of sew-in interfacing

• 2 yards of 1/8” ribbon

• 1 1/4 yards edging lace

Instructions:

• Cut out two front pieces on fold, and two back pieces on fold.

Patterns are on pages 73 and 74.

• Pin front and back shoulder seams and stitch at 5/8” (1).

• Trim seams to 1/4” and press open.

• Right sides together, fold in half, folding at the center back fold line.

• Place a 1 1/2” X 4” piece of interfacing, on the bodice back fold, and

pin in place.

• Pin and stitch at 5/8”, the neckline and armhole seams (2).

• Clip all the curves, trim the seam to 1/4”, turn right side out, and

press (3).

• With washout marking pen, draw a line around the neckline, 1/4”

from the seam edge.

• Pin and stitch 1/8” ribbon around the neckline on this line (4).

• Open up the side seam fold, and stitch the lining and front side seams

in one stitching. Again, trim to 1/4”, press open, and re-press

armhole seam (5).

• Topstitch armhole seam.

• To make the slip skirt, cut a rectangular shape using the width of the

fabric and whatever length you have left (you will cut it to the correct

length after the embellishments).

• Stitch short ends of rectangular skirt piece together at 5/8” seam

allowance, about 6 - 8” up from the bottom end.

• Press seam open.

• Turn and press up the bottom hem, 2” all the way around the skirt.

Now fold it under again and press.

• Take the hem to your machine, and stitch 3/8” from the fold edge (6).

You now have a tuck, and the hem is enclosed inside of it.

• Open up the skirt, and press this tuck downward.

• Mark a line 1/2” above the stitching line of the tuck (8).

• Sew ribbon onto this line.

• Mark another row 1/2” above the ribbon line.

• Find a fancy machine stitch, and stitch out a design on this line. Be

sure to use stabilizer under the fabric (9).

Skirt lengths for slip

and pinafore

Newborn: 8”

Small: 9” Medium: 10”

Large: 11”

X Large: 12”

75

• Determine the finished length you would like the skirt slip to be,

and cut it to this length and add 5/8”. You may want to consult the

dress length chart (page 62), and make the skirt 1” shorter if it is

going underneath, or 1” longer if you want the slip to show.

• Continue stitching the back seam up to within 3” of the top (9).

• Press seam open, and continue pressing the 5/8” all the way up the

3” left unstitched.

• Topstitch, presser foot width from the fold, the 3” open end to

make a center back opening (10).

• Using a straight stitch, stitch a row of lace around the bottom edge.

• Following the directions for gathering on page 59, run gathering

threads on the width of the skirt piece, beginning at the 3” opening

and finishing at the other end of this opening. Pin and stitch it to

the outside lower edge of the bodice at 5/8” seam allowance. Do

not stitch it to the lining (11).

• Once it is stitched in place, trim the seam, and press the seam

upward into the bodice.

• Turn the lining edge under 5/8”, and hand baste it over the top of

the gathering seam, giving you a very clean finish on the inside of

your garment (12).

4.

12.

11.

10.

9.

WtÜÄ|Çz Utuç c|ÇtyÉÜx WtÜÄ|Çz Utuç c|ÇtyÉÜx WtÜÄ|Çz Utuç c|ÇtyÉÜx WtÜÄ|Çz Utuç c|ÇtyÉÜx Cute pinafore makes the dress

more versatile

You will be using the same pattern and directions as for the baby slip,

making the following additions:

• Find a cute embroidery for the front bodice and either stitch it on by

hand or machine (1).

• Make ties for the back, cutting a width of fabric, 3” wide.

• Using the double rolled hem foot on your sewing machine, make a

narrow hem on both of the long edges.

• Cut the strip in the middle.

• Cut the other end of the strip at a 45 degree angle, so you are cutting

off the starts of your rolled hem (2).

• Zigzag stitch lace onto the 45 degree angle (do not cut lace ends yet).

• Mark a line 1/2” up from the lace, and stitch on a row of 1/8” ribbon.

• Fray check the ends of the ribbon and lace. Let dry completely and

them trim them even with the folded edge (3, 4).

• Tuck the other end of the tie strip, and insert it into the bodice side

seam, stitching it in place when you stitch the side seam.

1.

2.

3.

76

Need to mark buttons and

buttonholes on this.

Center Back

Pintucks & Lace

Slip - Pinafore

Bodice Back

Cut 2 on Fold

5/8” seam allowance

Sizes NB - X L

Size/Cutting Line Guide:

X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

Place on Fold

77

Pintucks & Lace

Slip - Pinafore

Bodice Front

Cut 2 on Fold

5/8” seam allowance

Sizes NB - X L

Size/Cutting Line Guide:

Place on Fold

X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

78

6.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Vâàx Utuç UÉÇÇxàVâàx Utuç UÉÇÇxàVâàx Utuç UÉÇÇxàVâàx Utuç UÉÇÇxà This style bonnet is quick, easy, and very cute!

Materials and Supplies:

• 1/3 yard batiste

• 1/2 yard of 1/2” wide insertion lace

• 1 yard edging lace

• 2 yards ribbon

Instructions:

• Cut out a rectangle according to the sizing chart above.

• From one of the long ends (this will be the front), with a washout

marking pen, mark a series of lines, and stitch the following: (1)

3/4” - pintuck

1 1/8” - pintuck

1 1/2” - pintuck

2 1/4” - center of lace insertion

3” - pintuck

3 3/8” - pintuck

3 3/4” - pintuck

• Gather edging lace by pulling the loopy thread on the top (2).

Adjust the gathers to fit the length of the front edge.

• Zigzag the lace to the front edge.

• Press under the sides, at 1/4” and then again at 1/4”.

• Stitch next to the inside fold (3).

• On the other long end (the back), turn under and press 1/4”,

then again 1/2”.

• Stitch next to the fold to form the ribbon casing (4).

• With washout marking pen, mark a line 2” from the back.

• Stitch a very small tuck (1/8”), on the wrong side of bonnet,

on this line.

• Insert ribbon through the back casing, and draw up to fit the

head (5).

• Attach ribbons with a loop at the lower front corners to tie it

on (6).

• You’re done! This cute bonnet was very simple and is very

sweet.

Size of

fabric rectangle

NB - S 13” X 7 1/2”

M - L 14” X 8 3/4” XL 15” X 9”

79

3.

5.

4.

3.

2.

1.

1.

cÜxààç [xtwutÇwcÜxààç [xtwutÇwcÜxààç [xtwutÇwcÜxààç [xtwutÇw

VÉÉÄ e|uuÉÇ UÉãVÉÉÄ e|uuÉÇ UÉãVÉÉÄ e|uuÉÇ UÉãVÉÉÄ e|uuÉÇ UÉã Materials and Supplies:

• Hairpin lace frame

• 1/8” ribbon (see chart)

Instructions:

• Set the width of the hairpin lace frame according to chart.

• Wrap the ribbon on the frame, leaving 5” tails.

• Using a very short straight stitch length (1.0), place the frame

under the sewing machine foot, and stitch down the middle of

the ribbon (2).

• Remove the ribbon from the frame.

• Fold ribbon in half along the seam, and stitch again, close to

the original stitching (3).

• Roll the ribbon up, and tack bottom edge by hand (4).

• Add more ribbon streamers if you like (5).

• Hand tack your ribbon bow to your headband.

• For older girls, you may want to set your frame up with a

wider width, and use more ribbon to make it fuller.

2.

4.

5.

Materials and Supplies:

• 2 1/4” X 22 1/2” fabric

• 3/4” soft elastic

Instructions:

• Cut a 2 1/4” by 22 1/2” piece of fabric.

• Fold fabric in half lengthwise. Stitch 1/4” seam

allowance, lengthwise to within 2” of each end (1).

• Slip a safety pin through the end fold, and feed through the

fabric, turning the “tube” right side out.

• Pin ends together, and stitch at 1/4” seam allowance (2).

• Insert the elastic through the opening.

• Stitch elastic ends together (3).

• Hand sew the fabric opening closed (4).

• Make and add the ribbon bow (directions below) (5).

• Hand sew the bow to the band, covering the seam line.

• For older girls, measure the head for elastic length and use

full width of fabric.

Headband Elastic Length Newborn - 15”

6 months - 16”

12 months - 17 1/2”

18 months - 19”

Size: Set frame: Length of

2 ribbons

Baby 2” 2 yards each

Toddler 2 1/2” 3 yards each Girls 3” 5 yards each

80

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10

YtÇvç ctÇà|xáYtÇvç ctÇà|xáYtÇvç ctÇà|xáYtÇvç ctÇà|xá Frilly and lacy - and oh so cute!

Materials and Supplies:

• 13” fabric

• 2 yards gathered lace

• elastic - 1/2” (waist)

and 1/4” (leg)

Instructions:

• Cut out two front pieces and two back pieces from the patterns on

pages 78 and 79.

• Sew the center back seam at 5/8” seam allowance. Trim to 1/4”

wide, zigzag the edge and press to one side (1).

• Using a washout marking pen draw a line 5” from the top edge.

• Sew edging lace on this line.

• Using 1/4” ribbon, sew both sides of the ribbon over the edge of

the lace.

• Find a fancy machine stitch to stitch above the ribbon. Be sure

to use stabilizer under the fabric (2).

• Sew the center front seam at 5/8” seam allowance. Trim to 1/4”

wide, zigzag the edge, and press to one side (3).

• Zigzag finish the top and leg edges of front and back.

• Mark and turn down 3/4” along the top edge and the bottom

edges of the front and back. Press to crease the edges.

• Sew the side seams at 1/4” seam allowance, then zigzag finish the

edges, press one direction (4).

• Sew a casing on the top edge, stitching 5/8” from the fold line,

leaving a 1/2” opening to insert the elastic (5).

• Insert the elastic (6).

• Overlap and stitch the ends of the elastic together (7).

• Finish stitching the casing closed.

• Sew two rows of stitching on the bottom leg edge for casing.

Stitch one row at 5/8” seam allowance, and the other 3/8”

seam allowance.

• Sew edging lace along the fold (8).

• Insert elastic into the casing, pinning the elastic at both ends of

casings to hold in place.

• Sew the crotch seam at 5/8”. Stitch over the elastic three times

(forward and reverse) for reinforcement. Trim to 1/4” wide, and

zigzag the edge (9).

• Use water to remove washout marking pen lines.

• Turn right side out and try on (10).

Elastic Chart (in inches)

NB S M L XL

Leg 9 3/4” 10 10 1/4 10 1/2 10 3/4

Waist 16” 16 1/2 17 18 19

81

Pintucks & Lace

Panty Front

Cut 2

Sizes NB - X L

Extend the pattern 5” straight up from the

top of this line

Size/Cutting Line Guide:

X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

Side seam 1/4”

82

Pintucks & Lace

Panty Back

Cut 2

Sizes NB - X L

Side seam 1/4”

Size/Cutting Line Guide:

X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

Exten

d th

e pattern

5” stra

ight u

p fro

m th

e

top of th

is line

83

9. 8.

7.

6.

5.

4.

1.

2.

3.

a|yàç UÉÉà|xáa|yàç UÉÉà|xáa|yàç UÉÉà|xáa|yàç UÉÉà|xá Keep those little piggies warm!

These booties are shaped to stay on.

Materials and Supplies:

• Outside fabric - use leftovers from dress

• 1/4 yard flannel for lining

• 4” gripper fabric for soles

• 1/4” elastic according to chart

• Ribbon - use leftovers from dress

• Lace - use leftovers from dress

• Rayon thread

Instructions:

• Using the pattern on the next page, cut out two bootie tops from the

outside fabric, and two from lining fabric; Cut two bootie soles

from gripper fabric or two lining fabric and two outer fabric.

• With washout marking pen draw casing lines on the lining at 2 1/8”

and 1 3/4” from the top (1). Set aside.

• Press outer fabric bootie in half (2). Sew ribbon over pressed

line, using stabilizer underneath. Find and select a fancy machine

stitch to stitch on both sides of the ribbon, stitching presser foot

width away (3).

• Sew the center back seam, right sides together, of outer fabric and

lining fabric, at 5/8” seam allowance. Trim to 1/4” and press seam

open (4).

• Sew the lining to the outer fabric around the top edge, matching the

center back seam (5). Trim to 1/4”, turn, and press.

• Sew on the casing line you previously marked, leaving an opening in

the lower row for inserting the elastic (6).

• Sew edging lace along the top edge (7).

• Insert elastic into the casing and finish stitching the casing

closed (7).

• You will be stitching the sole next. If you are not using gripper

fabric, lay the fabric and the lining together for each bootie, and

treat as one fabric.

• Sew the sole onto the bootie with a 5/8” seam allowance, matching

the toes and heels, and pinning well. You may need to clip the

upper fabric to get them to fit together well (8).

• Trim and zigzag this seam.

• Turn right side out and enjoy (9).

Ankle Elastic

Chart

NB 7 1/4”

S 7 3/4” M 8 1/4”

L 8 3/4”

XL 8 3/4”

84

Place on Fold

Bootie Sole

Cut 2 on Fold

Pintucks & Lace

Bootie Top

Cut 2 Outside Fabric

Cut 2 Lining Fabric

5/8” seam allowance

Casing Lines

Place o

n Fold

Size/Cutting Line Guide:

Top of bootie

Center back

X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

5/8” Stitching Line

85

2.

1.

_ÉäxÄç f{Üâz_ÉäxÄç f{Üâz_ÉäxÄç f{Üâz_ÉäxÄç f{Üâz

Materials and Supplies:

• Fabric, according to the size

chart.

• Variety of laces

• Interfacing, 1 1/2” by 15”

• Extra fine sewing thread

• Rayon colored thread

• 4 yards piping (if lining)

Making the pattern:

• Determine your pattern size

from the chart on page 61.

• Make a rectangle paper pattern

using the measurements listed

for your size.

• Following the diagram, angle

the ends in about 2” down and

8” across for Misses, 1” down

and 4” across for Girls.

Cutting out your fabric:

• Cut a large rectangle, 2” longer

than the width of your pattern, and 2” longer than the depth of

your pattern for your outside piece. You will cut it to pattern

size after you have completed the embellishment.

Embellishment is optional. If you opt not to, simply cut the

pattern out accurately. Lining is also optional. If you wish to

line your wrap, double the yardage, and cut 2 pattern pieces.

• Cut two band pieces.

• Cut one band piece for interfacing. Then cut again in half

lengthwise, making two pieces (1).

Sewing and embellishing:

• Press and starch all of your fabric pieces.

• Draw a line down the center back on one of your large

rectangles.

• Divide the width of the back by five, and place the crosswise

line 2/5 of the way down from the neckline.

Misses Fabric Fabric Band Yardage

Sizes Width Depth Size Needed

Small

(6-8) 40” 20” 3” X 10” 1 1/4 yd

Medium

(10-12) 42 1/2” 22” 3” X 11” 1 1/3 yd

Large

(14-16) 45” 24” 3” X 12 1/2” 1 1/2 yd

X-Large

(18-20) 49” 28” 3” X 14” 1 5/8 yd

Girls Fabric Fabric Band Yardage

Sizes Width Depth Size Needed

Small

(6-8) 28” 14” 3” X 9” 1 yd

Medium

(10-12) 34” 16” 3” X 10” 1 yd

Large

(14-16) 40” 20” 3” X 11” 1 1/8 yd

Shawls, and wraps make great cover-ups. This

shrug pattern dresses up an outfit and can be

made from most any fabric. Depending on

the weight of the fabric, you may make it

single thickness or add a lining to it.

2/5

3/5

Center Back Line

86

2.

7.

6.

5.

4.

3.

• Follow the directions for quilt block 4 on page 35 to embellish the

back of the wrap with lace, embroidery and pintucks (2).

• Press and starch.

• Recut to exact pattern size.

• Turn both long edges under 1/4” and then again 1/4” and press. Do

not turn under the angled ends (3).

• Find a fancy machine stitch to topstitch these turned edges.

• Run gathering threads at 1/2” and 3/4” along the rectangle ends.

Prepare your band:

• Press band in half, lengthwise.

• Press under one edge of the band, 1/4”.

• Lay interfacing next to the other edge of the band (4).

• With the band opened up flat, stitch a fancy machine stitch on the

edge with the interfacing, stitching presser foot width away from

the crease.

• Following the directions on gathering, page 59, gather and stitch

the extra fullness in the sleeve to fit the band/interfacing edge.

• Stitch the band and angled edges together using a 1/4” seam

allowance and zigzag the edge (5).

• Stitch in place, and press seam allowance toward sleeve band (6).

• Fold the other edge of the band to the inside, matching the turned

edge with the original stitching line.

• Hand tack in place, putting your stitches next to the stitching, but into

the seam allowance so they don’t show from the right side (7).

Directions for lined shrug:

• Follow above directions through the embellishment.

• Sew piping along the two long straight edges only (not angled

ends) (8).

• Right sides together, sew the outside piece to the inside piece,

stitching directly over the original piping stitching (9).

• Turn, press and topstitch with a fancy machine stitch (10).

• Run your gathering thread on the ends, and then follow the

directions above for preparing and stitching the band on.

• Enjoy wearing!

8.

9.

10

87

1.

2.

Uxtâà|yâÄ g|xÜxw f~|ÜàUxtâà|yâÄ g|xÜxw f~|ÜàUxtâà|yâÄ g|xÜxw f~|ÜàUxtâà|yâÄ g|xÜxw f~|Üà The tiered skirt is very cute, comfy, and popular. We

give you instructions using three tiers, with heirloom

embellishment techniques on the bottom two. This

can be sewn up in children’s sizes or for adults.

Materials and Supplies:

• Fabric - about 2 1/2 yards up to about a 40” hip measurement.

• 3/4” flat edging lace—length equal to length of last tier.

• Piping—length of 1st and 2nd tiers combined.

Your Pattern:

• Measure your waist and hips. Take the largest measurement and add 4”. This will be the width of

the first tier.

• The 2nd tier will be 1 1/2 times the width of the first.

• The 3rd tier will be 1 1/2 times the width of the 2nd.

• Measure from your waist to the length you would like the skirt to finish. Divide this measurement

by 3. This is your base height for each tier. For the first tier, add 1 1/2” to this measurement; for

the 2nd tier, add 1/4” to the base measurement; for the 3rd tier, add 3 1/2” to this measurement.

Hip + 4”

Tier 1 A.

1/3 finished length + 1 1/2”

B width = 1 1/2 times length of A. Divide in half to make two even size panels.

Tier 2 B. B. 1/3 finished length

+1/4”

Tier 3 C—1 1/2 times length of B. Divide by 3 or 4 to make even size panels.

C. C. C. 1/3 finished

length + 3 1/2”

Instructions:

• Serge or zigzag all edges of all pieces.

Tier 1:

• Sew side seam at 1/2” seam allowance (1). Press open.

• Sew piping to the bottom edge (2). See instructions on page 60.

• Press the top edge under 1” to the wrong side.

• Stitch 7/8” from the fold line, leaving a 3” opening to insert elastic.

• Measure your waist and subtract 2”. Cut 3/4” non-roll

elastic to this length.

• Thread

• Rayon thread

• 3/4” non-roll elastic

88

3. 4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

• Insert elastic through the casing (3).

• Overlap ends and zigzag stitch together (4).

• Slide elastic back into casing, and stitch opening closed.

Tier 2:

• Starch and press both tier 2 pieces.

• Sew side seams together at 1/2”. Press open.

• Run long gathering stitch, 4 or 5, around top edge (5).

• With a washout marking pen, mark a line 1” up from the

bottom edge.

• Place a row of pintucks, (page 11), on the first line.

Continue pintucking two more rows, putting the last row in the

outside groove of your pintuck foot (5).

• Find a fancy machine stitch and stitch it 1/2” from

the last pintuck.

• Sew piping to the bottom edge of Tier 1 and Tier 2 (5).

• Gather the top edge to fit the piped edge of tier 1 (6). See

gathering information on page 59. The top tier seam will be in

the center back. Line the 2 seams in the second tier up as side

seams.

• Stitch together, stitching over the top of the wrong side of

the piping stitching (7).

• Remove any gathering threads that show from the right side.

Tier 3:

• Starch and press all tier 3 pieces.

• Sew side seams together at 1/2”. Press open.

• Run a long gathering stitch around the top edge (8).

• With a washout marking pen, mark lines up from the bottom

edge at 1 3/4”, 2 3/4”, 3 3/4” and 4 1/4”.

• Fold on the first line, press a crease, and stitch a 1/4” tuck.

• Press downward from back side.

• Fold on the next line, crease, and stitch another tuck.

• Press downward.

• Fold on the third line and make another tuck.

• Press downward (8).

• Use the same fancy machine stitch as in tier 2. Stitch it out on

the fourth line. You may add additional rows of fancy stitching.

• Lay flat edging lace, right sides together, next to the bottom

edge, and stitch in place with a 3/8” seam allowance (9).

• Press the seam up into the tier, with lace becoming the

bottom edge.

• Topstitch to hold in place (10).

• Gather the top edge to fit the piped edge of Tier 2. Line one

of the three seams up in line with the center back seam on

the top tier.

• Stitch together, stitching over the top of the wrong side of

the piping stitching.

• Remove any gathering threads that show from the right side.

• Finished! Press it up and try it on (11).

11.

89

5.

4.

3.

2.

1.

_tvç UÄÉâáx_tvç UÄÉâáx_tvç UÄÉâáx_tvç UÄÉâáx Use your favorite blouse pattern to make this lovely blouse.

You will be adding the lace to the bodice front pieces,

following the techniques below.

Materials and Supplies:

• Your favorite blouse pattern

• 5 buttons

• 3” sew-in interfacing

• Fabric - see yardage on pattern envelope, plus 2” additional

bodice front length

• Variety of laces, beading, entredeux, and ribbon

Instructions:

• Cut out two fabric rectangles, 2” wider and 2” taller than your

bodice front pattern. These rectangle fabric pieces will serve as

the base to apply your laces.

• Lay your pattern piece onto each rectangle (don’t forget to turn it

over for the second one), and trace 1” away from the pattern edge

with washout marking pen onto the fabric. Your lace must cover

this area (1).

• Lay your rectangles out with center fronts together. Begin laying

laces, entredeux and beading out in an order that is pleasing to

you, on the right side. The order should be the same, except in

mirror image on the left side (2).

• Cut two sheets of stabilizer as large as your fabric rectangle. Pin

the stabilizer to the fabric near the edges and away from the

pattern area (3). Stabilizer is essential.

• You will stitch your laces together, and onto the fabric base at the

same time. You will need to plan ahead to trim, or to join laces

that will need trimming prior to attaching them to the fabric.

Refer to instructions on joining laces on page 16.

• Begin stitching your laces onto the base, working from the center

front toward the side seams, using a rayon thread and wing

needle. Cover the entire pattern area. Repeat for the second side,

double checking as you go to make sure the laces are in the same,

mirrored image order (4).

• If you have a skip, you need not take the stitching out. After all

your stitching has been completed, simply come back and

zigzag with extra fine sewing thread over the skip areas...it will

not show.

• You may now take your bodice front pattern piece, lay it over the

fabric/lace rectangle and cut it out (5).

• Proceed to sew your blouse together, following the directions

that came with your pattern.

90

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

XÅuÜÉ|wxÜxw gxt VÉéçXÅuÜÉ|wxÜxw gxt VÉéçXÅuÜÉ|wxÜxw gxt VÉéçXÅuÜÉ|wxÜxw gxt VÉéç Materials and Supplies:

• 1/2 yard outer fabric

• 1/2 yard lining fabric

• 1/2 yard batting

Instructions:

• Measure the height, depth, and width of your teapot.

• To make the pattern, add the following to these measurements:

Height, add 1 1/2”.

Width, add 1/2”.

Depth, do not add any

• Mark a rectangle for the front and back, using the height and width

measurements (1). Then round the top corners, using a wide mouth canning

jar lid. Cut out two each of outer fabric, lining, and batting.

• Measure the distance around the sides and top of the D shape This distance will

be the length of the insert, and your depth measurement the width (2). Cut out

one each of outer fabric, lining and batting.

• Draw a line down the center of the inset outer fabric, and trace the large design

on page 88.

• Satin stitch the design using the stitch widths indicated on the pattern (2)..

• Either machine embroider or hand embroider a design that will go nicely with

your teapot, in the colors of your teapot. Center the design as shown in (3).

• Following the piping directions on page 60, sew piping onto the D shaped

edges of your cozy, both outside pieces (3).

• Draw a line around all edges, 5/8” from the piping.

• Place small intersecting marks 1” apart on this line (4). By machine, using

either a straight stitch or a back stitch, curve your stitching in and out along the

line, intersecting at the marks. Use two different colors of thread for this. If

you have problems, see the middle illustration on page 88.

• With marking pen, draw a third line intersecting between the others, weaving in

and out as above. Stitch this line with the lightest color thread (5).

• Stitch the inset to the D shaped pieces. You will need to clip the inset to go

around the curve of the outer fabric. Stitch from the outer side, directly over

the first piping stitching.

• Clip/notch the curves so they will lay properly when right side out (6).

• Trim these two seams to 1/4”, and serge or zigzag the edge.

• Topstitch the seam in place, at 1/8” seam allowance, onto the inset piece. Use

thread that matches the fabric (7). Set aside.

• Treat the lining and batting as one fabric.

• As above, pin and stitch the inset to the D shaped pieces, lining fabric right

sides together. Clip and notch as needed. Trim to 1/4” and finish the edge.

• Cut off 1” from the open bottom edge of batting/lining piece (8).

• Put batting/lining inside of outer piece, lining facing inside, batting in the

middle, and outside fabric right side on the outside (9).

• Turn the lower edge of the cozy inside and slip-stitch it to the lining or machine

stitch 3/4” from bottom fold.

• Place the cozy over the teapot.

• Piping

• 3 colors embroidery thread or floss

91

Satin Stitch

Ribbon Pattern For Table Topper

and Tea Cozy

Line dotted line up

with line down the

middle of the inset

for tea cozy.

Line dotted line up

4” from the edge

for the table topper.

Wide Ribbon Pattern:

Darkest Color: 4.0 s.w.

Medium Color: 2.5 s.w.

Lightest Color: 2.0 s.w.

Set Stitch Length at 0.35

Fold line for

Tea Topper

Scallop pattern for Dressy Half Slip,

Classy Straight Skirt, and Tea Tim

e Table Topper.

92

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

gxt g|Åx gtuÄx gÉÑÑxÜgxt g|Åx gtuÄx gÉÑÑxÜgxt g|Åx gtuÄx gÉÑÑxÜgxt g|Åx gtuÄx gÉÑÑxÜ Finished size: 49” X 49”

Make tea time special with a table topper that coordinates

with your tea set.

Materials and Supplies:

• 1 2/3 yards of linen fabric

• Wash away basting thread

• 3 colors of rayon thread

Instructions:

• Cut your fabric to a perfect 54” square.

• Fold the square of fabric in half.

• Trace the scalloped stitching line, page 88, onto one edge of your

lengthwise folded fabric (1).

• Do not cut out the scallops until later.

• Set your machine up with wash away basting thread threaded on the

top. Set your stitch length at 2.5.

• Stitch, using stabilizer on the underneath side, on the stitching line.

• Remove the stabilizer and cut out 1/4” from the stitching.

• Clip where needed for scallops to turn and lay smoothly (2). See

instructions on page 10.

• Turn right side out, carefully poke out points, and press into shape

with a dry iron (3).

• Pour a small amount of water into a bowl. With your fingers,

dampen the seam line. The stitches will dissolve. You may need to

add a bit more if they don’t dissolve right away.

• Once again, refold the width direction and repeat the above (4).

• Open up and you have your border appliqué with all the edges

turned perfectly.

• Press well, and let these pieces dry completely before proceeding to

the next step.

• After pieces are dry, turn your border up so that the points of the

scallops are 2 1/4” from the edge, and press in place (5).

• Fold the corners according to the diagram to make a mitered corner.

Mark the 45 degree angle on both sides of each corner where they

meet with a washout marking pen (5).

• Turn the corner inside out and stitch exactly on the marks (6).

• Trim to 1/4”, and fold back into position. Press.

• Pin the scallop tips in place, and using a wing needle and rayon

thread, pinstitch the border in place (7).

• Place an embroidery in each corner, stitching by either machine or

by hand. Try to match your dishes, tea set, etc., in color and design.

• Draw a line on each side of your table topper, 4” from the edge, and

to within 1” of your embroidered design (8).

a.

b. c.

d.

93

• Using the large ribbon border pattern on page 88, draw lines onto

your fabric using washout marking pen.

• You may now satin stitch this design, using the following

machine settings:

..Darkest thread: stitch length of 0.35, stitch width of 4.0

..Medium thread: stitch length of 0.35, stitch width of 3.0

..Lightest thread: stitch length of 0.35, stitch width of 2.5

• Your stitches will be more even if you use a walking foot. Be

sure to use stabilizer underneath.

• Starch and press your tablecloth...enjoy!

fÑxv|tÄ atÑ~|Çá fÑxv|tÄ atÑ~|Çá fÑxv|tÄ atÑ~|Çá fÑxv|tÄ atÑ~|Çá Finished size: 17” X 17”

Complete your tea time ensemble with these

matching napkins.

Materials and Supplies:

• 1/2 yard of linen fabric

• 3 colors of rayon thread

Instructions:

• Cut fabric into two 18” square pieces.

• Turn the edges under 1/4”, then again 1/4” for outside hem.

• Select a fancy machine stitch and stitch the hem.

• Stitch an embroidery in one corner, either by machine or hand.

• Draw a line around all edges, 1 1/4” from outside edge, and 1”

away from the embroidery, with washout marking pen.

• Place small intersecting marks 1” apart on this line. By machine,

using either a straight stitch or a back stitch, curve your stitching

in and out along the line, intersecting at the marks. Use two

different colors of thread for this. If you have problems, see the

middle illustration on page 88. Be sure to use stabilizer under

your fabric.

• With marking pen, draw a third line intersecting between the

others, weaving in and out as above. Stitch this line with the

lightest color thread.

• Starch and press your napkins.

94

Satin Stitch

Satin stitches fill in an area. Using two strands of floss, and

beginning from the wrong side of your fabric, bring the needle

up at the end of your design. Stitch straight stitches closely

together to fill in a solid shape. You may angle the stitches

however you desire. Floss should be close, but not overlapping.

Even if you don’t have a machine with fancy stitches, you can still embellish

and make beautiful heirloom items by learning hand embroidery. Below are

instructions for the basic stitches.

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Chain Stitch

Using two

strands of floss, bring needle up from the backside. Form a

loop of thread in front of you. Put your needle into the fabric

very close to where it came out. All in one motion, bring it

back up about 1/4” away, pulling thread up over the top of the original thread loop. Repeat this sequence. Anchor the last

stitch by going over the top thread and taking your needle

Back Stitch

The back stitch is used mainly for outlining. Using two strands

of floss, bring your thread up from the backside about 1/8” in

from the starting point of the design. In all one motion, put

your needle down at the starting point, and bring it back up

1/8” beyond your original thread. Keep repeating this sequence. Work to make your stitches come to, but not into

any existing stitches.

Chevron Stitch

The decorative chevron stitch is made using backstitches.

Using two strands of floss, bring your thread up from the back

side at 1. Take your needle through the fabric from 2 to 3,

again through your fabric from 4 to 5, then from 6 to 4, then

from 7 to 8. You are now back at 1 and may continue to repeat this sequence.

5. 6.

4.

3. 7.

1. 2. 8.

95

Blanket Stitch

This is a nice stitch for appliqué as well as for finishing edges.

Using two strands of floss, bring the needle up at A. You will

insert at B and come out at C all in one stitch. B will be located

about 1/4” away from the last stitch, and goes through the fabric.

C is where it simply hooks under the thread from the last stitch. C becomes A for the next stitch. Repeat this sequence.

The stem stitch can also be used as an outline stitch. Using two

strands of floss, bring the needle up from the backside. Take a

short back stitch while holding the loop of the floss to one side.

Bring the needle halfway back along the stitch, pulling the stitch

into place, while taking another small stitch. Pull this stitch into place, and follow the sequence of taking small stitches halfway

back from the stitch you just made. Consistently hold the loop on

either the inside or outside edge of the design.

Stem Stitch

Feather Stitch

The looped feather stitch is a fun to make, decorative stitch.

Draw lines on your fabric as shown, using a washout marking

pen. Using two strands of floss and beginning at the top, bring your needle up from the backside on 1. All in one motion, insert

your needle at 2, and bring it back up at 3, passing the floss under

the needle point. Put your needle through at 4 and bring up at 5,

again keeping the thread under the needle point. Repeat this

sequence, making your feathers 3 to 5 stitches wide and then

changing directions.

Eyelet Stitch

Using two strands of floss, and beginning from the wrong side of

your fabric, bring the needle up at #1, and go back down in the

center. Repeat the rest of the way around, always coming up

from the back, and going down in the center. Tension on your

thread will create a hole in the middle, creating an “eyelet”. Draw the pattern for this onto your fabric in the shape of a

square.

1. 2. 3.

4. 5.

16. 6.

15. 7.

14. 8.

B.

C.

A.

96

French Knots

French knots are used for a variety of things...eyes, flower

stamen, etc. Depending upon the size of your desired knot, use

two - four strands of floss. Bring your needle up from the

bottom side exactly where you want your knot to be. Holding

your floss with one hand, take your needle and wrap the floss around it three or four times. Now direct your needle back

down through the fabric, only a thread or two away from where

you came up, and holding the floss taunt, pull it through.

Herringbone Stitch

The decorative herringbone stitch is a simple, interwoven

stitch, which is worked left to right, with backstitches. Using

two strands of floss, bring your needle up from the back side at

1. Take your needle through the fabric from 2 to 3, and again

through the fabric at 4 to 5. You are now where you began the pattern., and you may continue to repeat this sequence.

Lazy Daisy Stitch

Cute flowers! Using two strands of floss, bring your needle up

from the backside on a dot near the middle of your flower.

Form a loop of thread in front of you. Put your needle into the

fabric very close to where it came out. All in one motion, bring

it back up about 1/4” away, pulling thread up over the top of the original thread loop. Make a small anchor stitch over the

top of the floss loop to hold it in place. Bring your thread up at

the next tiny dot and repeat this sequence.

Couching Stitch

The couching stitch is an easy stitch used to accent or outline a

design. Using two strands of floss, bring your needle up from

the back side, and lay your thread down following your design

line from the back and moving forward. Cut your floss,

leaving enough to finish your line. Bring another needle with floss up and put a small stitch over the top of your main thread,

which you are holding in place with your thumb. Repeat these

stitches about 1/4” apart.

1. 5. 4.

3. 2.

97

XÅuÜÉ|wxÜç Wxá|zÇáXÅuÜÉ|wxÜç Wxá|zÇáXÅuÜÉ|wxÜç Wxá|zÇáXÅuÜÉ|wxÜç Wxá|zÇá Here are a few designs you can hand embroider onto your squares for embellishment. You may

outline stitch the designs or fill in. Feel free to enlarge or decrease the design as needed.

Remember, true heirloom used pastel colors. I would suggest finding three soft colors, one main

one that you can match with silk ribbon for the beading.

98

Learn to sew. From plugging in the sewing machine to creating a

pair of pajamas, Stitches & Pins guides the novice seamstress with

clear, step-by-step instructions. 14 projects complete with patterns,

girls sizes 8 - 16, are useful items the seamstress will be proud to

use, wear, or give. Tote bags, vests, and blankets: each project

focuses on mastering specific techniques, and builds upon skills

learned. Special techniques - bias tape, quilting, embellishments -

ensure the final creation will be as professionally constructed as it

was fun to make.

YÜÉÅ à{x UâÇ~{ÉâáxAAAYÜÉÅ à{x UâÇ~{ÉâáxAAAYÜÉÅ à{x UâÇ~{ÉâáxAAAYÜÉÅ à{x UâÇ~{ÉâáxAAA

Buckles & Bobbins, A Beginning Sewing Book for Boys, is

complete with projects arranged from elementary - a pillowcase

and laundry bag - to the more advanced - duffel bags, back packs,

cargo pants, and a reversible sports vest that can be customized

with pockets, mesh lining, and a zippered front closure. The step-

by-step instructions and illustrations clearly present the chosen

technique, with each project building upon techniques previously

introduced. All patterns, boys sizes 8 - 16 are included!

Pins & Needles continues what Stitches & Pins started, delving

into more difficult sewing techniques like waistbands, zippers,

and set-in sleeves. There are sections on polar fleece, heirloom

sewing, quilting, and projects using the serger. In all, there are

over 30 projects, something to be stitched or quilted for every

season of the year. All the patterns, girls sizes 8 - 16 and misses

sizes 8 - 16 are included in a handy pocket built into the back of

the book.

Make outfits for yourself, and matching ones for your doll with

our 18” doll clothing patterns that coordinate with the sewing

projects in each of our learn to sew books.

Make your own cloth doll from our 18” or 36” “Children of

the World” doll patterns. Each pattern contains directions for

the doll and one outfit for each nationality.

Check out our website: www.bunkhousesewing.com

or call us to order: 1-800-337-8845

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dâ|Äà|Çz ctààxÜÇádâ|Äà|Çz ctààxÜÇádâ|Äà|Çz ctààxÜÇádâ|Äà|Çz ctààxÜÇá We offer quick and easy quilt patterns for the beginner, with a

variety of themes for children as well as adult interests. Most

projects use piecing and/or fusible appliqué. Projects include

pillows, potholders, wall hangings, travel games, table runners,

placemats, doll quilts, Christmas projects, and traditional quilts in

all sizes. All 14 patterns can easily be completed by a beginning

student.

We have more challenging projects for the experienced,

skilled quilter including gorgeous stained glass church

banners, intricately pieced quilts, and inspirational

designs.

Seven beautiful patterns

have been designed for

the veteran quilt maker.

Check out our website to view all of our quilting projects, in larger

sizes, with complete descriptions and sizes for each project. We are

adding new seasonal church banner designs to this section - so check

back often.

Tvà|ä|àç UtzáTvà|ä|àç UtzáTvà|ä|àç UtzáTvà|ä|àç Utzá Cute, fun, and simple beginning sewing

projects in a bag. Quick, too! Includes

fabrics and supplies - all at a price you can

afford!

fxã|Çz fâÑÑÄ|xáfxã|Çz fâÑÑÄ|xáfxã|Çz fâÑÑÄ|xáfxã|Çz fâÑÑÄ|xá Gingher dressmaking scissors and shears - Wonder

Tape - Quick Bias - Quilt Fuse - and more! We

offer our favorite sewing supplies for you at

discounted prices on our website.

jxuá|àxjxuá|àxjxuá|àxjxuá|àx www.bunkhousesewing.com

All of our products, with complete descriptions

and pictures, sample pages of books, prices

and easy online ordering. For any additional

information, or to call to order, contact JoAnn,

1-800-337-8845.

Tvà|ä|à|xá 9 gxtv{|Çz T|wáTvà|ä|à|xá 9 gxtv{|Çz T|wáTvà|ä|à|xá 9 gxtv{|Çz T|wáTvà|ä|à|xá 9 gxtv{|Çz T|wá Browse through our website - free puzzles, sewing

tips, home school curriculum guide pages for

Stitches & Pins and Buckles & Bobbins, free

sewing projects, and photo gallery. Great teacher

resources!

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