2018 Bordeaux En Primeur - Montrachet Bordeaux... · streak that characterise the best white...

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2018 Bordeaux En Primeur Tasting Notes & Opinion

Transcript of 2018 Bordeaux En Primeur - Montrachet Bordeaux... · streak that characterise the best white...

Page 1: 2018 Bordeaux En Primeur - Montrachet Bordeaux... · streak that characterise the best white Bordeaux. The sweet wines are also of good quality (the sixth consecutive successful vintage

2018 Bordeaux En Primeur Tasting Notes & Opinion

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This was a year easy to summarise as exceptionally wet for the first six months and magnificently dry and warm for the second. After the wettest winter and spring on record, bud break was late, in the middle of April. May and June continued wet, pos-ing a grave threat of mildew, a situation aggravated by the inability to get tractors into some vineyards due to waterlogged soil. The one respite was a two week period of dry weather at the end of May and beginning of June which happily coincided with the onset of flowering on most estates; only a few early-ripening sites suffered a significant loss of crop from coulure. Sadly, after flowering, the wet weather returned, heightening the risk of mildew and causing devastation in many estates practising organic or biodynamic viticulture. Finally, however, the weather improved and from mid-July a fabulous period of dry, warm, sunny weather set in which would last well into autumn and create a euphoric harvest period. July had the highest average temperature since 1954 with hot days and warm nights. August was similarly hot and dry but didn’t reach the temperatures experienced in 2003. At first, the vines showed little stress as a result of the water reserves in the soil built up earlier in the year, and vine growth only came to a halt in most vineyards at the end of véraison around 15th August. September continued dry and sunny with hot days but cool nights, allowing the fruit to ripen evenly whilst retaining good acidity. The dry weather with no risk of botrytis enabled growers to choose their moment and resulted in a long, extended harvest with no pressure to rush. Many growers said that they had never seen such consistently ripe and healthy fruit throughout the harvesting period. Sugar levels were high and extraction of colour and tannin was easy given thick-skinned grapes with only moderate amounts

2018 BORDEAUX

A year of two halves

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of juice. Many châteaux have made wines with some of their highest ever levels of alcohol and IPT (Indice Polyphenols Totaux, which measures the quantity of tannins in a wine). The fine weather lasted until mid October by which time the last cabernets had been picked. The subsequent rain proved beneficial for the Sauternes producers, provoking the onset of noble rot; the best sweet wines being harvested during the week of 22nd October. To summarise, the dry whites are ripe and fruity and will be delicious young with only the finest wines showing the mineral streak that characterise the best white Bordeaux. The sweet wines are also of good quality (the sixth consecutive successful vintage in a row, an unprecedented run for Sauternes) but, overall, are not as exciting as the best 2016s and 2017s. As ever, following a hot summer, it is the red wines that are the stars of the show. Rich, ripe and concentrated, the danger is one of over-ripeness and over-extraction of tannins. Fortunately, much of Bordeaux seems to be rowing back from the over-extracted wines of the early 2000s and returning to a fresher, more elegant style albeit with higher levels of ripeness and alcohol as a result of a warmer climate. The best 2018s capture this perfectly; rich and harmonious with ripe, sunny fruit, silky tannins and enough acidity to give length and freshness. In short, they capture the freshness and precision of 2016 allied to the ripeness and generosity of 2009. Generally less austere than 2010, they will give huge pleasure relatively young but have the balance to age effortlessly. Importantly, the vintage is successful throughout Bordeaux; seductive Pomerol, opulent Saint Emilion, elegant Graves and powerful Médoc. The quality also happily descends down the price scale with tremendous crus bourgeois in the Médoc and delicious petits châteaux throughout the Côtes de Bordeaux, Entre-Deux-Mers, Graves and Saint Emilion satellite appellations. Happy hunting!

April 2019 Charles Taylor M.W.

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PAUILLAC

Château Lafite Rothschild 1er Cru Classé, 91% CS, 8.5% M, 0.5% PV Harvested relatively early from 17th September to 5th October, this is the most elegant and harmonious of the first growths with a beautiful, restrained nose of violets, blackcurrants and gentle oak. Technical director Eric Kohler was careful not to extract too much tannin and has produced a wine with a fine, close-knit texture on the palate with everything in place. Builds in the mouth to a long, sweet finish. Combines charm and persistence, a great success. Drink 2028-2045.

Château Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru Classé, 86% CS, 12% M, 2% CF

Philippe Dhalluin has made the fleshiest, most generous wine of the Pauillac first growths. Splendidly aromatic with masses of blackcurrant fruit and a healthy dose of toasty oak. Rich and round on the palate with a sumptuous texture and a long, sweet aftertaste. Cropped at 28 hl/ha with 65% of the harvest used for the grand vin. Another great success that combines the ripeness and generosity of 2009 with the class and persistence of 2016. Drink 2030-2045.

Château Latour 1er Cru Classé, 91% CS, 9% M The first vintage at Château Latour to be certified organic. Technical director, Hélène Génin adapted the vinification to avoid any over-extraction and has been rewarded with a splendid, dense, full-bodied wine that, whilst still the firmest of the first growths, has wonderful generosity and sweetness on the finish. The grand vin represents 37% of the crop, is 14.3% alcohol and will be aged, as usual, in 100% new oak barrels. This won’t be sold en primeur but will be released at a later date, to be decided by the owner, François Pinault. Drink 2030-2045. Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2ème Cru Classé, 71% CS, 23% M, 5% CF, 1% PV Technical director Nicolas Glumineau has made the most refined wine in the Pauillac appellation. Harvested between 13th September and 11th October with an overall yield of 35 hl/ha the 2018 has a beautiful, fresh, aromatic quality with pure blackcurrant fruit on both nose and palate. Not as dense nor tannic as the Pichon Baron but with a ripe, succulent texture, perfect balance and a long, sweet aftertaste. Drink 2026-2038.

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Château Lynch Bages 5ème Cru Classé, 72% CS, 19% M, 6% CF, 3% PV The construction of a new winery is under way at Lynch Bages but Jean-Charles Cazes has produced one of his most powerful and finest wines since taking over from his father. Harvested between 19th September and 9th October this has beautiful pure, blackcurrant fruit, impressive ripe tannins and enough acidity to give freshness and vitality. 14.4% alcohol with an ITP of 95, one of the highest ever at Lynch Bages. Will be aged for 18 months in 75% new french oak barrels. A complete wine with great potential. Drink 2028-2042. Château Grand Puy Lacoste 5ème Cru Classé, 78% CS, 22% M With Lynch Bages and Clerc Milon the finest of the Pauillac fifth growths and producing wine of super-second quality. This is another great success for owner François-Xavier Borie and technical director Christel Spinner, combining classic blackcurrant and cedarwood aromas with a dense, close-knit structure, firm but ripe tannins and a long, firm finish. Quintessential Pauillac and should remain excellent value for money. For François-Xavier it ‘combines 2009 & 2016 whilst remains less austere than 2010’. Drink 2028-2040.

Château Pichon Longueville Baron 2ème Cru Classé, 78% CS, 22% M Despite an almost identical proportion of cabernets, this is the total opposite to Pichon Comtesse in style; dense and tannic with a tight, close-knit texture and powerful structure. Christian Seely now restricts the production of the grand vin to his prime plots adjacent to Château Latour and has been rewarded with a wine of first growth quality. Drink 2028-2042.

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

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Château Pontet Canet 5ème Cru Classé, 70% CS, 22% M, 5% CF, 3% PV Mildew reduced the crop at this biodynamic estate to a miserly 10 hl/ha. The tiny harvest was completely de-stemmed by hand, fermented exclusively in the smaller cement vats (inaugurated in 2017) and will be aged 55% in new oak barrels and 45% in cement amphorae. Very ripe and jammy, wonderful for lovers of rich, porty wines but not for those who prize freshness and precision. Drink 2025-2035.

Château Clerc Milon 5ème Cru Classé, 60% CS, 27% M, 9% CF, 3% PV, 1% C The quality of Clerc Milon has risen dramatically after the arrival of Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy as estate director in 2009 and the construction of a new winery in 2011. Owned by Mouton Rothschild and lying just across the D2 road in close proximity to the Gironde estuary the château benefits from the same gravel terroir as Latour and Léoville Las Cases. At 14.2% alcohol this is more alcoholic than the 2009 but less than the 2010 vintage, both great successes. Rich and generous with an exuberancy rarely found in Pauillac. Finishes sweet and long. Will age magnificently. Drink 2028-2040.

Château Pontet Canet

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Château Lynch Moussas 5ème Cru Classé, 72% CS, 28% M Owned and made by the same team as Château Batailley, the vineyards lie at the western edge of the Pauillac appellation. A fine, restrained wine, medium bodied with ripe, red cherry and blackberry fruit. One of the best value cru classés in an appellation which is becoming increasingly expensive. Drink 2026-2037.

Château Bellegrave 56% CS, 44% M Brothers Julien and Ludovic Meffre vinify alternative vintages of this and their other property, Château du Glana in St. Julien. In 2018 it was Julien’s turn and he made a splendid, powerful Pauillac, backward at the moment but with plenty of dense, ripe fruit. It has an impressive, long finish and compares in quality with many of the Pauillac crus classés. Consequently, it is excellent value. Drink 2027-2038. Château Haut Bages Monpelou 71% CS, 26% M, 2% CF, 1% PV One of the finest non-classified Pauillac estates, owned by the Castéja family of Château Batailley since the 16th century. Situated on the Bages plateau just to the north of Batailley. This rich, generous Pauillac is vinified by Arnaud Durand and the Batailley team and in 2018 is an excellent, structured wine with plenty of ripe, blackcurrant fruit. Drink 2026-2036.

Château Batailley 5ème Cru Classé, 74% CS, 23% M, 3% PV A generous crop of 52 hl/ha and a splendid result. Wine-maker Arnaud Durand has made a full-bodied, ripe wine with plenty of juicy, succulent fruit. The introduc-tion of a second wine, Lions de Batailley, in 2014 has giv-en additional depth and concentration and this will surely be one of the best value Pauillac cru classés. Drink 2026-2038.

Château Haut Batailley 5ème Cru Classé, 59% CS, 41% M The second vintage under the ownership of the Cazes family of Château Lynch Bages. Winemaker Maixence Poidevin has increased the depth and concentration of the wine without losing the wine’s historic elegance and refinement. Still more Saint Julien in style but fine qual-ity, helped by the introduction of the new second wine ‘Verso de Haut Batailley’. Rich and juicy with beautiful red and black fruits and fine, ripe tannins. Will age grace-fully. Drink 2026-2038. Château d’Armailhac 5ème Cru Classé, 55% CS, 30% M, 10% CF, 5% PV The third Pauillac cru classé owned by Château Mouton Rothschild. Fresher and lighter, this has wonderful pu-rity of fruit and carefully extracted tannins. Excellent harmony, this will be hugely attractive relatively soon yet age gracefully. Drink 2026-2038.

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SAINT JULIEN

Château Léoville Las Cases 2ème Cru Classé, 80% CS, 11% M, 9% CF The perfect autumn weather allowed the longest harvest on record, stretching from 18th September to 4th October. Extraction was gentle and only 3% (usually 10%) of the vin de presse was included in the final blend. More approachable than most young Léoville Las Cases but with tremendous concentration of fruit and fine, silky tannins. Definitely Saint Julien rather than Pauillac in style this year. Drink 2028-2042. Château Léoville Poyferré 2ème Cru Classé, 64% CS, 30% M, 3% CF, 3% PV Sara Lecompte-Cuvelier has taken over the management of the estate for the Cuvelier family, owners since 1920. The policy of picking later than the other Léovilles continues with the harvest running from 24th September to 12th October. The result is a rich, fleshy wine with beautiful, sweet, glossy fruit. One of the most tannic (IPT 90) and alcoholic (14.4%) vintages of Poyferré but has fine freshness and precision. Drink 2028-2042.

Château Léoville Barton 2ème Cru Classé, 82% CS, 18% M As usual, technical director François Bréhant picked relatively early from September 21st to 6th October and was rewarded with a dense but fine wine that combines power and precision. Rich, ripe and cedary on the nose, full and firm on the palate. 14% alcohol with good balancing acidity, this is one of the freshest wines of the vintage and will age magnificently. Drink 2030-2042.

Château Ducru Beaucaillou 2ème Cru Classé, 85% CS, 15% M Bruno Borie made the most of the ripest, most concentrated grapes that he has ever picked. At 14.5% alcohol and IPT of 95 this is the densest, most tannic wine ever made at Ducru Beaucaillou. More Pauillac than Saint Julien with a firm structure, intensely ripe fruit and a long, sweet finish. Will be aged, as usual, for 18 months in 100% new oak barrels. Drink 2030-2042.

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Château Gruaud Larose 2ème Cru Classé, 67% CS, 24% M, 9% CF Jean Merlaut makes consistently fine Saint Julien at this large (82 hectare) second growth that he acquired in 1997 and which lies at the southern end of the Saint Julien appellation immediately to the west of the hamlet of Beychevelle. The 2018 is 14.2% alcohol with fine, spicy fruit, excellent structure and a long aftertaste. Rich and harmonious, this will age magnificently. Drink 2028-2042. Clos du Marquis 64% CS, 30% M, 6% CF One of the richest (14.5% alcohol, IPT 79) Clos du Marquis ever with wonderful harmony and precision. Produced from the vines on the Léoville Les Cases estate situated on the western side of the D2 road where the soil is sandier and has more clay. Since 2015 the quality has benefitted from the introduction of its own second wine, La Petite Marquise, enabling owner Jean-Hubert Delon to make a stricter selection and increase the proportion of cabernet sauvignon. Will be aged in 55% new oak. Lovely, creamy cassis aromas, tight structure and fine length on the finish. Drink 2027-2040.

Château Langoa Barton 3ème Cru Classé, 63% CS, 28% M, 9% CF Made by the same team and in the same cellar as Léoville Barton but the extra merlot makes the wine a little more open-textured. Still a rich, powerful wine with a dense, chewy mid-palate and a long, fresh finish. 13.85% alcohol and will be aged in 60% new oak casks. Drink 2028-2040.

Château Branaire Ducru 4ème Cru Classé, 58% CS, 33% M, 5% PV, 4% CF Owner François-Xavier Maroteaux and winemaker Jean-Dominique Videau have made one of the freshest, most elegant wines of the vintage. Beautiful, pure cassis fruit and carefully-extracted tannins make for a fine, harmonious wine. Despite its 14.3% alcohol it has a wonderful succulent texture and long, fine aftertaste. Drink 2027-2038.

Château Saint Pierre 4ème Cru Classé, 77% CS, 23% M Owner Jean-Louis Triaud and technical director Rémi di Constanzo have made another rich, glossy wine from this fine 17 hectare estate, recreated in 1982 by Henri Martin of Château Gloria. Magnificent succulent texture, masses of blackcurrant fruit backed up by ageing in 50% new oak barrels. Drink 2027-2038.

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Château Talbot 4ème Cru Classé, 66% CS, 29% M, 5% PV With 102.5 hectares under vine, the largest of the Saint Julien classed growths. Picked between 19th September and 10th October this is Jean-Michel Laporte’s first vintage (previously he was in charge of Château La Conseillante) and a great success. Vividly fruity on the nose, rich and succulent on the palate with carefully extracted, silky tannins, this will be delicious young but has the freshness and harmony to age gracefully. Drink 2027-2039. Château Gloria 60% CS, 32% M, 5% PV, 3% CF Created by Henri Martin during the 1940s and 1950s from purchases of land throughout the appellation, this is consistently the finest of the St Julien non-classified châteaux. Vinified by the same team and in the same cellars as fourth growth Château Saint Pierre, this is rich and ripe with beautiful, glossy, blackcurrant fruit and soft, silky tannins. Lovely seductive style, a real crowd pleaser. Drink 2026-2038.

Château du Glana 60% CS, 40% M One of the finest St. Julien cru bourgeois owned by brothers Julien and Ludovic Meffre. In 2018 it was Ludovic who vinified Glana (they take it in turns) harvesting the merlot at 15% and cabernet sauvignon at 14%. Beautiful, ripe, juicy wine with lovely purity of fruit and a long, sweet finish. Probably the best value wine in the appellation. Drink 2026-2036.

Château Moulin Riche

59% CS, 23% M, 17% PV, 1% CF

A high proportion of petit verdot gives additional structure and concentration to this fine St. Julien estate owned by Château Léoville Poyferré. Deep and brooding with lovely, black cherry fruit and powerful yet ripe tannins. 14.1% alcohol with fine balancing acidity that gives freshness and length. Drink 2027-2038.

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SAINT ESTEPHE

Château Cos d’Estournel 2ème Cru Classé, 74% CS, 23% M, 2% CF, 1% PV Technical director Dominique Arangoïts, who has been at the château since 2004, has made a fine, elegant Cos, nothing like the blockbusters of the early 2000s. Harvested between 19th September and 6th October with low yields (30hl/ha) due to mildew, this will be aged in 50% new oak, less than in the past. Rich and concentrated but has carefully extracted silky tannins and a delightful freshness on both nose and palate. Drink 2028-2042. Château Montrose 2ème Cru Classé, 72% CS, 20% M, 6% CF, 2% PV Acquired by Martin and Olivier Bouygues in 2006, this famous estate has benefitted from huge investment and is now consistently making wines of first growth quality. Low yields (25hl/ha) due to mildew and the dry summer gave a dense, opulent wine reminiscent of 2009. Careful extraction of the tannins has avoided any trace of rusticity and has resulted in another great Montrose. Hervé Berland and his wine-making team lead by Vincent Decamp have potentially made the longest lived of the Saint Estèphe super seconds. Drink 2030-2045.

Château Calon Ségur 3ème Cru Classé, 65% CS, 17% M, 15% CF, 3% PV Estate director Laurent Dufau and technical director Vincent Millet have closed the gap with Cos and Montrose with Calon Ségur consistently producing super second quality since 2009. Wonderful depth of fruit, carefully extracted tannins, close-knit texture and great length on the finish. Despite the 14.9% alcohol and 100% new oak this retains fine freshness and acidity. A huge success. Drink 2028-2040.

Château Lafon Rochet 4ème Cru Classé, 64% CS, 26% M, 4% CF, 6% PV Basile Tesseron’s 41 hectare estate lies immediately to the west of Ch. Cos d’Estournel. Estate director Lucas Leclerc picked between 24th September and 13th October and made a rich, juicy 2018 that continues the trend towards softer, more generous wines. Still has the firm structure of a typical Saint Estèphe but complemented by opulent, blackcurrant fruit on the palate and a sweet finish. Drink 2026-2036.

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Château Capbern 62% CS, 37% M, 1% PV Fantastic value property owned by Château Calon Segur and managed by the same team. Wonderfully generous with ripe but fresh blackcurrant fruit on both nose and palate. Will be aged in 60% new oak barrels. Drink 2025-2032. Château Le Crock 44% M, 40% CS, 10% CF, 6% PV This fine, 32 hectare property overlooks Château Cos d’Estournel and benefits from the same ownership and winemaking team as Château Léoville Poyferré. Oenologist Isabelle Davin oversees the vinification which in 2018 has given what could be the finest ever Château Le Crock; rich and dense, with intense red and black fruits on both nose and palate. A sumptuous wine with its huge structure balanced by masses of succulent fruit. Drink 2026-2035. Château Les Ormes de Pez 50% M, 41% CS, 7% CF, 2% PV Owned since 1940 by the Cazes family of Château Lynch Bages. A powerful, rich wine with beautiful, plummy fruit and a long, fresh finish. Will be aged for 16 months in 45% new oak barrels. Cru classé quality. Drink 2026-2036.

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MARGAUX

Château Margaux 1er Cru Classé, 90% CS, 4% M, 4% CF, 2% PV The second time in its history that the wine has reached 14% (2015 was the first) but has wonderful freshness and vitality as well as power and opulence. Philippe Bascaules reduced the length of the cuvaison by 2-3 days for most of the vats and has made the château’s usual strict selection; only 36% of the crop being used for the grand vin. Rich and seamless with fantastic, cedary nose, impressive close-knit texture and a firm but long finish. Drink 2028-2045. Château Lascombes 2ème Cru Classé, 55% CS, 40% M, 5% PV Estate director Dominique Befve and technical director Delphine Barboux have maintained the bold, rich, fleshy character of Lascombes whilst refining the tannins and reducing the proportion of new oak. The 2018 harvest started on 18th September with the merlot and the last cabernet sauvignon was picked on 16th October. The average yield was 45 hl/ha and the wine is rich and spicy with both structure and freshness, combining the ripeness of the 2009 with the precision of 2016. Will be aged in 60% new oak instead of the 90% used in the past. Drink 2027-2040.

Château Brane Cantenac 2ème Cru Classé, 74% CS, 23% M, 2% CF, 1% PV Henri Lurton makes a classic, pure style of Margaux. At 13.4% alcohol these is no shortage of richness but this is a restrained, elegant wine, backward at present but with the balance to age effortlessly. Lovely mixture of blackcurrant and cedar on the nose and carefully extracted tannins on the palate. Will be aged in 70% new oak barrels. Drink 2028-2040.

Château Palmer 3ème Cru Classé, 53% CS, 40% M, 7% PV Its biodynamic viticulture cost the château 65% of its crop, recording a meagre 11 hl/ha, the smallest harvest since 1961. Fermentation was again sulphur free and the wine is dense, rich and powerful with beautiful, ripe fruit, 14.3% alcohol and an impressive, long finish. Despite no Alter Ego being produced, there will be only 6,000 bottles of the wine instead of the usual 12,000. Drink 2028-2040.

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Château Rauzan Ségla 2ème Cru Classé, 56% CS, 40% M, 2% PV, 2% CF Fine, harmonious wine combining power and elegance. Nicolas Andebert has built on the progress made over 20 years by John Kolasa and this is one of the finest ever wines from this château. Rich and silky with fine concentration and length; quintessential Margaux. Drink 2027-2040.

Château Giscours 3ème Cru Classé, 55% CS, 39% M, 6% PV Estate director Alexander van Beek has made Giscours one of the most consistent wines in the Margaux appellation. Always ripe and generous, in 2018 it has additional power and structure, and finishes with a delicious, sweet aftertaste. Drink 2027-2039. Château Malescot St Exupéry 3ème Cru Classé, 60% CS, 32% M, 8% PV Jean-Luc Zuger has 24 hectares of vines at Malescot and makes a firm yet refined style of Margaux. The 2018 is one of the darkest ever; deep and rich on the nose, ripe and generous on the palate. Splendid, long aftertaste. A great success. Drink 2027-2040.

Château Angludet 48% CS, 34% M, 18% PV Having been devastated by frost in 2017, Angludet lost most of the crop to mildew in 2018. What was left is of fine quality - rich and concentrated with fine perfume and vivid fruit - the equivalent in quality of many cru classés. Drink 2026-2038.

Château Kirwan 3ème Cru Classé, 43% CS, 29% M, 15% CF, 13% PV Philippe Delfaut has refined the style since arriving at Kirwan as managing director in 2007. The 2018 is one of the most aromatic and elegant wines of the appellation with 14% alcohol and ageing in 50% new oak. Soft and juicy on the palate the low yields (25hl/ha) give the necessary depth and concentration. Overall, a lovely, charming wine. Drink 2026-2038.

Château du Tertre 5ème Cru Classé, 40% CS, 30% M, 16% CF, 14% PV Also managed by Alexander van Beek of Château Giscours, but he makes a more forward, softer style of Margaux at du Tertre. The 52 hectares of vines lie in a single block around the château in the village of Arsac at the western end of the Margaux appellation. With 14.1% alcohol and an IPT of 70, this is a most attractive wine, combining lovely, red fruits with a fine, fresh texture. Finishes soft and sweet. Drink 2025-2036.

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MEDOC

Château Cantemerle 5ème Cru Classé, Haut-Médoc, 45% CS, 40% M, 10% PV, 5% CF Owned since 1981 by the mutual insurance company Groupe SMA, the early replantings of the vineyard are now mature and producing much more serious wine than the vintages of the 1990s and 2000s. The 2018 is rich and generous with most attractive, cassis fruit and lovely freshness and vitality. Will be aged in 40% new oak barrels. Drink 2026-2038. Château Fourcas Dupré Listrac-Médoc, 54% M, 45% CS, 1% PV Patrice Pagès has never seen ‘such healthy grapes from the beginning to the end of the harvest’. Together with maitre de chai Gilles Bergerot, he has fashioned a delicious, ripe, fruity wine that retains the firm classicism of Listrac whilst adding freshness and opulence. Harvested between 20th September and 12th October the 2018 averages 13.55% alcohol and has slightly higher acidity than 2015 and 2016. Fermentation was at 25C with a total maceration of 2 weeks. A lovely, bright, vividly fruity wine with fine ageing potential. Drink 2025-2037. Château de Fieuzal (p.19)

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Château La Grave Médoc, 75% M, 25% CS Jean-Philippe Cazaux bought this 23 hectare estate with vines on a mixture of clay, gravel and limestone soils in the village of Blaignan, 10km north of Saint Estèphe, in 2014 and has succeeded in making rapid progress in upgrading the wines. The 2018 is his finest ever with masses of ripe blackcurrant fruit and an impressive close-knit texture. Will be aged for twelve months in one third new oak casks from barrel-makers Seguin Moreau and Leroi. Drink 2024-2030. Château Liversan Haut-Médoc, 50% M, 44% CS, 4% CF, 2% PV Splendidly situated on a fine gravel bed with a limestone base just inland from Châteaux Grand Puy Lacoste and Batailley. Winemaker Philippe Marchal makes a full-bodied, Pauillac style wine which in 2018 has 13.5% alcohol, vivid blackcurrant fruit and a rich, sumptuous texture. Drink 2024-2030. Château Leboscq Médoc, 50% CS, 50% M A 20 hectare estate owned by Château Patache d’Aux with deep, gravel soils close to the Gironde estuary in the village of Saint Christoly. The warm terroir enabled the wine to reach 14% alcohol, a level never previously achieved. Full-bodied, rich and flavoursome, a great success. Drink 2024-2030.

Château Chasse Spleen Moulis, 45% CS, 40% M, 10% PV, 5% CF One of the best-known, family-owned châteaux of Moulis, run since 2000 by Céline Villars and her husband Jean-Pierre Foubet. The 2018 is dense and rich with a full-bodied, meaty texture and a firm but ripe finish. Will be aged in 25% new oak barrels. Drink 2027-2038. Château Cissac Haut-Médoc, 58% CS, 31% M, 9% PV, 2% Malbec Marie Vialard has worked wonders at her family’s property, retaining the richness of older vintages but injecting more fruit, charm and persistence. Gone are the over-tannic wines of the past, this is fresh, ripe and harmonious. Drink 2025-2036.

Château Patache d’Aux Médoc, 60% CS, 36% M, 4% PV A hailstorm in May reduced the crop to 36hl/ha but enabled the fruit to achieve greater ripeness than ever before. Winemaker Lucie Lauilhé, together with consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt, has made the finest young Patache that I’ve ever tasted; 14% alcohol with masses of ripe, juicy fruit, carefully extracted tannins and a long, fresh aftertaste. Drink 2024-2032.

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PESSAC-LEOGNAN & GRAVES

Château Haut Brion 1er Cru Classé, 49% M, 39% CS, 12% CF Chef de culture, Pascal Baraté delivered a normal sized (45 hl/ha) crop of perfectly ripe and healthy grapes despite the difficult spring weather and a hail storm on 26th May. This is a particularly fine Haut Brion. As usual, very little vin de presse was included in the grand vin which has a fine cedar and blackcurrant nose followed by masses of succulent fruit on the palate. Winemaker Jean-Philippe Masclef reduced the maceration time from 22 to 17 days in order to avoid any trace of over-extraction. Beautifully balanced and at 14.6% alcohol, less alcoholic than both the 2010 and 2015. Drink 2028-2045.

Château La Mission Haut Brion Cru Classé, 53.5% M, 42.9% CS, 3.6% CF This is showing even better than neighbouring Haut Brion at the moment with lovely, creamy, cassis fruit on the nose and a magnificent close-knit texture. Full and firm but with more than sufficient fruit to fill out the tannic structure. The grand vin represents 53% of the crop and, whilst built to last, will also give huge pleasure relatively soon. Drink 2028-2042.

Château Pape Clément Cru Classé, 66% CS, 30% M, 4% CF Bernard Magrez’s flagship property in the suburbs of Bordeaux has produced another ripe, fleshy wine. Rich and generous with lovely plummy fruit and firm but ripe tannins. This has a healthy dose of new oak and finishes sweet and long. Drink 2027-2038.

Domaine de Chevalier Cru Classé, 70% CS, 30% M, A beautifully crafted wine from owner Olivier Bernard and technical director Thomas Stonestreet. The red wines have gained extra depth and concentration in recent years, adding more power to the estate’s traditional elegance. This has magnificent ripe, red and black fruits on the nose, a tight, close-knit texture and impressive, long aftertaste. The quality of the tannins is superb and this has all the elements for a great life. Drink 2027-2042.

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Château de Fieuzal Cru Classé, 55% CS, 30% M, 10% CF, 5% PV Fieuzal has consistently been one of the best value cru classés since its purchase in 2001 by Irish businessman Lochlan Quinn and the arrival in 2007 of estate director Stephen Carrier (previously technical director of Château Lynch Bages). The 2018 is full and rich, with masses of dark, ripe fruit on both nose and palate. Dense and powerful this is a great effort, combining intense fruit flavour with fine freshness and complexity. Drink 2026-2038.

Château Haut Bailly Cru Classé, 55% CS, 35% M, 5% PV, 5% CF The most tannic (IPT 86) and alcoholic (14.3%) Haut Bailly ever but winemaker Gabriel Vialard has managed to retain fine freshness and vivacity despite the supremely ripe grapes harvested between 17th September and 9th October. Rich and concentrated with impressive close-knit texture and long aftertaste. Combines the opulence of 2015 with the classicism of 2016. A great success. Drink 2028-2040.

Château Lespault Martillac Pessac-Léognan, 60 % M, 30% CS, 10 % PV Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier has leased this 8 hectare property from owner Jean-Claude Bolleau since 2008. Both the vineyards and cellars have been renovated and the wines benefit from the expertise of the Domaine de Chevalier team. The red wine, with a majority of merlot, is rich and fleshy with masses of ripe, plummy fruit and an impressive, tight structure. Finishes fresh and long. Cru classé quality. Drink 2026-2035.

Château Civrac Lagrange Pessac-Léognan, 50% CS, 42% M, 8% PV Splendid 13 hectare property adjacent to Domaine de Chevalier. Planted at high density (8500 vines per hectare), the wine has fine depth and concentration and is the equal of many of the more prestigious (and expensive) crus classés. Great value. Drink 2024-2030.

Vieux Château Gaubert Graves rouge, 50% CS, 50 % M Dominique Haverlan owns the finest estate at Portets in the heart of the Graves. He has spent over 30 years renovating the property and the vines are now 40 years old on average, giving glorious wine. This is a rich, cedary wine that boasts masses of ripe, blackcurrant fruit, complemented by just the right amount of new oak. Unable to benefit from the more prestigious Pessac-Léognan appellation this represents superb value for money. Drink 2023-2029.

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POMEROL

Vieux Château Certan Pomerol, 70% M, 30% CF Alexandre and Guillaume Thienpont consider the cabernet franc to be essential to the balance and quality of the wine this year. Whilst the merlot, picked at the end of September at 15% alcohol, was rich and generous, the cabernet franc harvested at 13.5% alcohol at the beginning of October contributed much needed freshness and acidity, as well as moderating the overall level of alcohol. Two thirds of the crop was selected for the grand vin which is one of the finest wines of the vintage. Drink 2028-2040. Château La Fleur Pétrus Pomerol, 91% M, 6% CF, 3% PV

The Moueix family have quietly extended the vineyards, originally just to the north of Château Lafleur and Petrus, by acquiring further parcels on the Pomerol plateau. The area under vine is now 19 hectares and quality is better than ever with wonderful precision and purity of fruit. With a magnificent dense, close-knit texture, this builds in the mouth to a spectacular, sweet finish. Drink 2028-2040.

Château La Conseillante Pomerol, 83% M, 17% CF Marielle Cazaux is making wines with a little more density and concentration than her predecessor Jean– Michel Laporte. This is her best wine yet as it has the fruit and structure of the splendid 2016 with a little extra flesh and charm. A wonderful hedonistic mix of red and black fruit on both nose and palate and an impressive sweet but firm finish. Drink 2027-2038. Château La Fleur de Gay Pomerol, 96% M, 4% CF Chantal Lebreton’s top cuvée produced from three complementary parcels; ‘La Fleur’ with its clay soil next to Pétrus, gives structure; ‘Gay’ with the same gravel as at Château Lafleur adds finesse and ‘Groupey’ adjacent to Château Trotanoy and Le Pin brings succulence and fruit. A lovely, complete wine with amazing juicy fruit, a touch of toasty oak and an explosive finish. Drink 2027-2038.

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Château La Croix de Gay Pomerol, 93% M, 7% CF The fourth vintage made in the new cellar of Chantal Lebreton’s splendid 3.7 hectare property on the higher, northern end of the Pomerol plateau and probably the best. Picked between September 18th and 24th and macerated for 28-31 days, this is a rich, opulent Pomerol with lovely plum and mulberry fruit aromas. Generous on the palate, it finishes sweet and long. Drink 2025-2035. Château Guillot Clauzel Pomerol, 75% M, 25% CF Tiny 2.4 hectare vineyard owned by the Clauzel family on the south-facing side of the Pomerol plateau adjacent to the vines of Le Pin. Since January 2018, the property has been managed by Guillaume Thienpont of Vieux Château Certan and the 2018 vintage is the château’s finest ever. The vineyard’s distinctive soil (gravel on the surface, clay underneath) has given a rich, profound wine with vivid fruit and exquisite elegance. Drink 2026-2038.

Château Lafleur Gazin Pomerol, 100 % M 8.5 hectares of clay and gravel vineyards at the northern edge of the Pomerol plateau between Château Lafleur and Gazin. Managed by the Jean-Pierre Moueix team, this is rich and plummy with a succulent texture and full-bodied structure. Drink 2025-2032.

La Sergue Lalande de Pomerol, 72% M, 25% CF, 3% Malbec From three plots of 45+ year old vines totalling 5.5 hectares within sight of the plateau of Pomerol, La Sergue is often known as ‘the poor man’s Petrus’. Made by Pascal Chatonnet since 1996, the 2018 is one of his very finest vintages. The wine is fermented in three oak vats with the malolactic fermentation following in barrel. Rich and generous with fantastic, plummy fruit and a long aftertaste. Drink 2025-2035. Château Haut Chaigneau Lalande de Pomerol, 90% M, 10% CF A delicious wine with masses of fruit and just the right amount of oak (one third of the barrels are renewed each year). Fine, elegant red and black cherry fruit with carefully extracted tannins and a delightful, fresh finish. Drink 2023-2030.

Château La Croix Chaigneau Lalande de Pomerol, 55% CF, 45% M The second wine of Haut Chaigneau produced from the

younger vines with a higher proportion of cabernet franc

and vinified to be enjoyed young. Ripe and open-

textured, this is forward and will be a delight to drink

within five years. Drink 2022-2028.

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22 MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337 Château Cheval Blanc

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SAINT EMILION AND THE CÔTES

Château Ausone 1er Grand Cru Classé A, 60% CF, 40% M A candidate for the wine of the vintage. A beautiful, creamy wine with perfect harmony and balance. The 7.25 hectares were harvested between 25th September and 9th October with an average yield of 38hl/ha. This weighs in at 14.55% alcohol but the cabernet franc gives excellent freshness and an impressive close-knit texture. Builds in the mouth to an amazing, long finish. Drink 2028-2042. Château Cheval Blanc 1er Grand Cru Classé A, 54% M, 40% CF, 6% CS 33 of the château’s 43 productive parcels were included in the grand vin, representing 74% of the crop. At 14.5% alcohol, the 2018 is only exceeded by the 2010 (14.8%) and the 1947 (14.9%). Extraction was careful; this is a beautiful, harmonious wine, full of fresh, lively fruit and soft, silky tannins. A splendid, charming wine, one of the most seductive of the vintage. Drink 2027-2042.

Château Figeac 1er Grand Cru Classé, 37% M, 33 % CS, 30% CF The cellars at Figeac are being completely rebuilt so the 2018 wine was vinified in a temporary structure to which the existing stainless steel vats had been moved. Estate director Frederic Faye was careful with the extraction, making fewer and shorter remontages and continuing to use the traditional Figeac practice of a submerged cap. Malolactic fermentation was in barrel and the wine will be aged in 100% new oak. The result is a magnificent, dense wine, 14% alcohol with complex red and black fruits, a rich, succulent texture and long aftertaste. With the opulence of the 2015 and the close-knit texture of the 2016, it has a brilliant future. Drink 2028-2040. Château Canon 1er Grand Cru Classé, 72% M, 28% CF Another great success for Nicolas Audebert and his team. Since his arrival from Cheval des Andes in 2015, Château Canon has made a succession of brilliant wines combining freshness and elegance with a sumptuous, opulent texture. This is no exception; carefully extracted, silky tannins and delicious, ripe fruit combine to give a seamless, harmonious wine. Drink 2026-2038.

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Château Troplong Mondot 1er Grand Cru Classé, 85% M, 13 % CS, 2% CF New estate director Aymeric de Gironde arrived from Château Cos d’Estournel in time for the 2017 harvest but 2018 was the first complete season for which he was in charge. As at Cos, the style at Troplong has been lightened by picking earlier and extracting less (lower fermentation temperature and fewer, shorter remontages). Cropped at a generous 49 hl/ha, the 2018 is 14.5% alcohol (the 2009 & 2010 were over 15%) and retain fine freshness and precision. Vibrant fruit is allied to silky tannins and a long, fresh finish. Drink 2026-2038. Clos Fourtet 1er Grand Cru Classé, 86% M, 10% CS, 4% CF This fine estate, owned by Matthieu Cuvelier (no relation of the Cuveliers at Léoville Poyferré) has been brilliantly consistent over the past ten years. Rich, yet elegant, the 2018 has fine plummy fruit and silky, ripe tannins. Finishes sweet and long. Drink 2027-2038. Château La Clotte Grand Cru Classé, 85% M, 10% CS, 5% CF Tiny 4 hectare estate on the limestone côtes at St Emilion acquired by Château Ausone at the end of 2014. This is a wonderfully, fresh, elegant wine with intense, precise fruit that builds in the mouth to a fine, explosive finish. The quality has soared since 2014 but, so far, the price hasn’t so buy it while you can. Drink 2027-2038.

Château Moulin Saint Georges Grand Cru, 80% M, 20% CF 7 hectares of west-facing limestone slopes, immediately opposite and also owned by Château Ausone. The cooler soil requires a warm summer and the 2018 is brilliantly successful combining ripe plummy fruit, fresh acidity and impressive length. Drink 2026-2034.

Château Fonbel Grand Cru, 80% M, 20% CF Another château owned by Alain and Pauline Vauthier of Ausone, the vines lie a few kilometres south on sandier soil with the wine being vinified at Château Moulin Saint Georges. A full-bodied, gutsy wine without the class of Ausone but with plenty of ripe fruit and a lovely, generous texture. Always modestly priced, it is a consistent bargain in fine vintages. Drink 2025-2032.

Château Quinault L’Enclos Grand Cru, 70% M, 15% CF, 15% CS Purchased by Cheval Blanc in 2007, this 20 ha vineyard situated in the middle of the town of Libourne makes one of the most charming wines of the appellation. Picked early due to its warm microclimate (10th Sept to 11th Oct), the wine is now aged in larger 500 litre barrels (50% of which are new) from the tonnelleries Taransaud and Demptos in order to prioritise the fruit and retain the maximum of freshness. Ripe and succulent with beautiful, soft tannins. Drink 2025-2033.

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L’Archange Saint Emilion, 100% M Pascal Chatonnet’s 1.5 hectare plot of old merlot vines adjoining Châteaux Figeac and La Dominique. Rich and concentrated, this has a wonderful aromatic quality and particularly fine freshness. Fermentation was cooler than usual with less remontage in order to extract only the softest, ripest tannins. Finishes fresh and long. Drink 2025-2033. Château Pindefleurs Grand Cru, 90% M, 10% CF 19 hectare property with a mixture of gravel and clay-limestone soils situated just to the west of the town of Saint Emilion. Rich and oaky with fine, blackberry fruit, this has both presence and charm. Drink 2023-2029. Château Jacques Noir Saint Emilion, 100% M Tiny 5.6 hectare estate on the eastern side of the appellation owned by the Ducourt family since 2001. Totally renovated, the property now makes a delicious, ripe, plummy wine that is attractive when young but has the depth and balance to age gracefully. Drink 2022-2029. Château Canon

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DRY WHITES

Château Haut Brion Blanc Pessac-Léognan, 81% Sauvignon, 19% Sémillon Harvested early from August 28th to September 5th in order to retain freshness and acidity, this has a higher proportion of sauvignon than in any recent vintage. Crisp and aromatic on the nose with just the right amount of oak. Having spent just six months in barrel this is already out of cask and will be bottled in May 2019. A long, rich harmonious wine of great elegance and persistence. Drink 2021-2027. Château La Mission Haut Brion Blanc Cru Classé, Pessac-Léognan, 57% Sauvignon, 43% Sémillon An atypical blend for La Mission, as usually the sémillon dominates. But Jean-Philippe Delmas and his team considered the sémillon by itself to be a little on the soft side and was better used as a foil for the crisper and more aromatic sauvignon. The result is a lovely, aromatic wine combining the racy sauvignon notes with the fuller texture of sémillon. Drink 2021-2026.

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc Cru Classé, Pessac-Léognan, 70% Sauvignon, 30% Sémillon Another brilliant effort from owner Olivier Bernard and technical director Thomas Stonestreet. Harvested at the beginning of September with the usual system at Chevalier of several passages through the vineyard in order to pick each bunch at optimum maturity. Fermented in 30% new french oak barrels, this has a fine mineral streak as well as wonderful, ripe, creamy fruit. Usually aged in barrel for 15-18 months, in 2018 a proportion of the crop has already been taken out to preserve the maximum of freshness. As usual, one of the finest dry white wines of the vintage. Drink 2022-2030.

Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc Cru Classé, Pessac-Léognan, 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon Gris A long harvest for the white wines stretching from 24th August to 12th September so that each plot could be picked at the optimum moment. The lovely pure sauvignon aromas and fine crisp minerality makes this one of the most successful whites of the vintage. Will be aged for 12 months in 50% new french oak barrels. Drink 2022-2026.

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Château de Fieuzal Blanc Pessac-Léognan, 60% Sauvignon, 40% Sémillon, After no Fieuzal in 2017 due to frost, this is one of the best white wines made by Stephen Carrier since he arrived as estate director in 2007. Ripe and open but with fine concentration of fruit and impressive intensity of flavour. After much experimentation, Stephen now matures the whites in both oak and acacia barrels. The acacia ages the wines more slowly as a result of the tighter grain and consequently lower oxygen uptake. A great success. Drink 2022-2027.

Château Fourcas Dupré Blanc Bordeaux Blanc, 65% Sauvignon, 35% Sémillon Patrice Pagès has planted a limestone section of his vineyard with white varieties and is rapidly making a name for this delicious wine, already one of the best white wines in the Médoc. Picked on 7 consecutive days (12-18th September) as each plot reached perfect ripeness, the 2018 is richer and rounder than the 2017 but retains fine freshness and vitality. Drink 2020-2024.

Vieux Château Gaubert Blanc Graves Blanc, 50% Sauvignon, 50% Sémillon

Dominique has built up his estate to 150 hectares since he started in 1985. His white wines go from strength to strength. The 2018 is crisp and aromatic but with a delicious, rich texture and lovely, clean finish. Fermented and aged for six months in 30% new french oak barrels. Drink 2020-2023. Château La Mission Haut Brion

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28 MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337 Château Lamothe Guignard

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SAUTERNES AND BARSAC

Château Doisy Védrines, 2ème Cru Classé, Barsac 87% Sémillon, 13% Sauvignon

Harvested between 2nd October and 6th November, Olivier Castéja has produced one of the richest wines of Barsac (13.5% alcohol and 132g/l residual sugar). Full and round on the palate with a long, fresh aftertaste. Drink 2022-2029. Château Lamothe Guignard, 2ème Cru Classé, Sauternes 90% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle

Philippe Guignard likens 2018 to the 2014 vintage but with a little less acidity. This is rich and unctuous with fine, honeyed fruit and a delightful fresh finish. Cropped at 13hl/ha, the wine has 14% alcohol & 120g/l residual sugar. Drink 2022-2029. Château Broustet, 2ème Cru Classé, Barsac 75% Sémillon, 15% Sauvignon, 10% Muscadelle

A lighter style of Barsac but has all the elements to age gracefully. Rich and aromatic, the 2018 continues the fine run of vintages made by Pierre Mauget since the Merlaut family of Château Gruaud Larose purchased the estate in 2010. 13.5% alcohol plus 130g/l residual sugar. Drink 2022-2028.

Château Coutet, 1er Cru Classé, Barsac 75% Sémillon, 23% Sauvignon, 2% Muscadelle The second small crop in a row; after the frost in 2017, it was mildew that reduced the harvest to a meagre 3hl/ha in 2018. The quality, however, is fine. Winemaker Laurent Girardot has made a lovely, honeyed, elegant wine with 13% alcohol and 135g/l of residual sugar. Finishes fresh and clean. Drink 2023-2030. Château La Tour Blanche, 1er Cru Classé, Sauternes 80% Sémillon, 10% Sauvignon, 10% Muscadelle Hail on the day of the World Cup Final (July 15) reduced the crop to 11hl/ha but the weather during the harvest was fine, with the best grapes being picked during the week of 22nd October. This is rich, fruity and opulent with a fine balance of 13.6% alcohol and 125g/l residual sugar. Drink 2023-2029. Château Doisy Daëne, 2ème Cru Classé, Barsac 100% Sémillon

Jean-Jacques Dubourdieu has made a quintessential Barsac; ripe, honeyed fruit backed by fine, crisp acidity. 13.5% alcohol plus 125 g/l residual sugar gives a rich yet balanced wine that will age gracefully. Drink 2023-2030.

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The recommended wines This booklet represents my personal selection of the

most successful wines of the vintage. I have tried to include wines at every level and from a wide spread of appellations. At the time of going to press we do not have prices of any of the châteaux so I cannot make ultimate judgements of value for money. There are other excellent wines that I have tasted that I will buy if the price is right. Conversely, I may decide that the price asked for some of my chosen wines is too high.

Let us have your wish list Please let us know as soon as possible if there are any specific châteaux (whether they are on my list or not) in which you are interested and we will make you an offer as soon as the wine is released.

Prices by email As the châteaux release their wines onto the market, we

will send out the prices by email. If you have not already received any 2018 Bordeaux information from us by email, please let us have your email address so that we can keep you informed.

How our 2018 Bordeaux En Primeur Offer works:

Order by email, telephone or fax Email: [email protected] Telephone: 020 7821 1337 We would urge you to place your order as quickly as

possible. Even in less hyped vintages the châteaux often have a limited supply and the most successful wines sell out within hours.

Timetable We expect the individual châteaux to release their prices

at any time between now and July. The wine is sold whilst still lying at the châteaux for delivery after bottling. i.e. 2018 Bordeaux will be shipped to the UK in spring/summer 2021.

For further information or to place an order, please contact:

Charles Taylor M.W., Jack Bartholomew

or Thomas Britten

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Whilst detailing the blend of varieties at the individual châteaux I have abbreviated the grape varieties as follows: Cabernet Sauvignon - CS, Cabernet Franc - CF, Merlot - M, Petit Verdot - PV and Carmenère - C

Front cover: Château Latour Back cover: Racking the wine at Château La Mission Haut Brion

Terms and conditions

Wine will be invoiced at an IN BOND price, lying at London City Bond, Creek Road and excludes costs such as duty, VAT and delivery charges. The IN BOND price for the wine must be paid for at the time of the order. The duty, VAT and delivery are due, if applicable, when the wines are shipped in 2021. Wine is generally sold in 12x75cl bottle cases (i.e. 9 litres) and we supply all ‘En Primeur’ purchases in this size unless otherwise instructed. Wine can be bottled in different formats: Halves 24x37.5cl, Magnums 6x150cl, Double Magnums 3x300cl etc. There is a surcharge for this; please specify your requirements at time of ordering. We ask that your minimum total order of wines from the 2018 vintage is 8 cases or £1000.

11 CATHERINE PLACE WESTMINSTER

LONDON SW1E 6DX

Telephone: 020 7821 1337 Fax: 020 7821 1626

[email protected]

Charles Taylor M.W. [email protected]

Louisa de Faye Perkins [email protected]

Jack Bartholomew [email protected]

Jenny Blanks [email protected]

Thomas Britten [email protected]

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11 CATHERINE PLACE WESTMINSTER

LONDON SW1E 6DX

Telephone: 020 7821 1337 [email protected]