[1]

2013 Educational SeminarTHURSDAY SEPTEMBER 19TH, 2013

"FERMENTATION, COSMETICS & WINE"See Detailed Speakers Bio/Abstract Inside

DATE: The Woodlands - One Southwoods Road Woodbury, NY 11797 (MAP)

REGISTRATION: 12:30pm 1:00pm 1:00 PM - Steve Schnittger Estee Lauder Companies 2:00 PM - Thomas Mammone Ph.D., MBA Estee Lauder Companies 3:00pm - Smitha Rao MS, MBA Lonza companies 4:00pm - Nelson Ayala, Ph.D., MBA, DTM CB Fleet Laboratories 5:00 PM - Cocktail Hour

Tickets are available through our website!Click HERE to purchase.

2013EDUCATIONAL

SEMINAR

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[2]

LETTER FROM THE CHAIR.

Dear LISCC Members,

I would like to first send a special thanks to the crew that helped plan and execute another successful picnic! The weather was perfect as promised, and it certainly was a great time had by all.

With the summer rapidly coming to a close, we are rolling right into the headline for this Fall Newsletter which is our Educational Seminar. Ruby has lined up a great evening of Education based on Fermentation. Please register as soon as possible as space is limited. Details on the speakers and their topics are outlined in the upcoming pages.

Please also take note of the LISCC annual golf outing which is slated for Wednesday September 11th. Contact Paul Tchinnis for information regarding reserving spots for the outing.

I hope everyone enjoys the small amount of summer we have left, and to see everyone at the Educational Seminar.

As always I encourage all of our members to contact me, or any board member if you would like to become more involved in the chapter

Regards,

Brandon NeblettLISCC Chair

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[4]

REGULATORY UPDATE

Palm oil , increasingly in demand as a starting point for many cosmetic in-gredients and the focus of many legal and sustainable initiatives, together with the demand for wood pulp, is being blamed for the annual and ille-gal “slash and burn” season of deforestation in Indonesia. NASA sees evidence in satellite pictures which also sees the fires as the cause of harmful smog which has reached dangerous levels on many occasions.

Vogue International has agreed to a $6.5m settlement in a suit brought by Golloher, et al. which contended that Vogue’s Organix brand used the words ‘Organix’ and ‘Organic’ on the same label in a misleading way. More importantly, the suit contended that the Vogue products did not contain the requirement minimum organic content; that the products consist almost entirely of ingredients that are not organic.

Harmonization: The International Cooperation on Cosmetics Regulation (ICCR) had its seventh annual meeting in July in Tokyo. There were seven ar-eas of discussion. �ICCR invited China and Brazil to participate as observers of the ICCR process. �A report entitled “Inventory of Validated Alternatives to Animal Testing” was presented. The report Annex will be updated on an an-nual basis. �The working group of in silico prediction models for safety as-sessment made a progress report. A further intense review of in silico tech-nique and its application to cosmetics will be pursued. �Nanomaterials: Two documents were presented and ac-cepted: “Characterization of Nanomate-rials III-Insolubility, Biopersistence and Size Measurement in Complex Media” and “Safety Approaches to Nanomate-rials in Cosmetics”, Both will be posted. �Trace Impurities: The document on lead was accepted. The documents on mercury and 1,4-dioxane remain a priority . �Endocrine Disruptors:

Following a presentation and discussion, industry agreed to provide additional information and a proposal for future discussion. �Allergens: The working group presented a progress report and expects to deliver a draft high level report for consideration at the next meeting.

As of mid-July, Cosmetics Europe formally welcomed the implementation of the European Cosmetics Regula-tion which became the only regulation for the European cosmetics industry on July 11th. The Director-General of Cosmetics Europe, Bertil Heerink, , said; "The introduction of a European Regulation for Cosmetics is a deci-sive step towards creating a strong single level playing field. For the first time, the world’s largest personal care market of more than 500 million consumers will be served by a single, harmonized piece of legislation, di-rectly applicable in all the Member States of the European Union. The regulation both gives consumers a uniform level of protection in a single market, and brings unprecedented clarity for industry. We look forward to working with our stakeholder part-ners to ensuring the success of this important regulatory development".

In the UK, the Advertising Standards Authority has ruled against claims by online retailer gogroopie.com for anti-wrinkle action for “Skin Chemists Apple Stem Cell Serum’ saying that they are misleading. The ASA did not rule against the use of the words ‘stem cell’ or the implica-tion that any particular material derived from apples provided anti-aging effects, only that Go Groopie did not provide “any evidence, consisting of clinical trials conducted on people, confirming that the product did have anti-aging effect on user’s skin.”

The ASA has also banned certain ads for Nivea’s Vital moisturizing cream due to the use of Photoshop in post-production.

The European Commission is considering whether methylchloro-isothiazolinone and methyliso-thiazolinone should be restricted to

rinse-off products only. This move has been expected since the Scien-tific Committee on Consumer Safety, citing the fact that the two materials may have a “sensitizing” effect on skin, recommended the limitation in a 2009 report

Since this Spring, Brazil’s various regulatory agencies have been re-viewing and updating the country’s cosmetics regulations with a direction to get more in line with global guide-lines. Recently, one proposal to regulate nanomaterials in cosmetics has been set aside as insufficient. A second nanomaterial proposal, to re-quire labeling informing the public when nanotechnology has been used in a product, is still pending. Four substances have been individually regulated: lead acetate, pyrogallol, formaldehyde and paraformaldehyde.

The United Arab Emirates is also requiring that products that contain nanomaterials must be so labeled.

As the number of complaints of ir-regular patches of lightening on the skin due to the use of 54 product brands has gone over 7000, Kanebo has assembled a team of lawyers and a team of dermatologists to han-dle the situation. Kanebo believes that the problem stems from one ingredient, 4HPB (4- (4-hydroxy-phenyl)-2-butanol) or Rhodedenol, a synthetic version of a compound found in white birch bark. Kanebo has issued a recall for all of the products but the Japanese govern-ment has criticized Kanebo for not taking prompt enough action.

The South African minister for health and social welfare has declared that baobab oil, frequently used in African cosmetics, is “unfit for human use”. The Tanzanian FDA has shown that the cyclopropyl fatty acids found in baobab oil are carcinogenic. The minister also announced that in the future all food, drugs, cosmetics and medical devices must be registered with the Tanzanian FDA.

Europe’s first summit on EU Cosmetic Regulation, The Compli-ance for Cosmetic Manufacturers Summit, will take place in October.

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1:00pmSteve Schnittger: The Use of Fermentation in the Personal Care Industry

Fermentation has been used for many years in the pharmaceutical industry as a means of producing active ingredients through the growth of bacteria, yeast and mold. A majority of present day antibiotics were produced through bacterial fermentation with their molecular structures than being isolated and synthesized in the lab for large scale production.

This same technology is now being used in the cosmetic industry to develop ingredients which are safe, cost e!ective, and whose activity is consistent from batch to batch. Since many of these ferments are either water soluble or spray dried and concentrated, their ease of incorporation is also a major bene"t to the cosmetic chemists.

This presentation will discuss some of the basics techniques involved with fermentation, further expand on some of the bene"ts of fermentation, discuss the downstream processing used to extract and purify these active molecules, and give examples of some the success stories that have been generated at Estee Lauder.

BIO: Steven Schnittger – Steve is presently the Vice President – Global Micro-biology and Biotechnology- R&D for the Estee Lauder Companies. He has been with Estee for over 20 years all within the Microbiology and Bio-Ferm Lab. Primary responsibilities are in the area of cosmetic preservation and advising the chemist on new formulations. Other responsibilities include developing new active ingredients through fermentation, advising manu-facturing on cleaning and sanitization procedures and assisting quality assurance and manufacturing when problems arise. Works closely with the safety group in "nding the balance between safety and preservation.

Before coming to Estee Lauder, Steve worked for Ralston Purina Company and attended school at the University of Tulsa majoring in microbiology. He is past - chairman of the CTFA Microbiology Committee, active member of the U.S. TAG / ISO committee for Cosmetic Microbiology, member of the American Society of Microbiology, Society of Cosmetic Chemists and the Institute of Food Technology. Holds numerous patents in cosmetic science fermentation and frequently is asked to give presentations on preservation, risk assessment and fermentation.

2:00pmThomas Mammone Ph.D., MBA Estee lauder companies: Physiological E!ect of a Probiotic on Skin

The concept of probiotics likely dates back to 1908, when Noble Prize winner Eli Metchniko! suggested that the long life of Bulgarian peasants resulted from their consumption of fermented milk products. The term "probiotic" was "rst used in 1965, by Lilly and Stillwell for describing substances secreted by one organism which stimulate the growth of another (2). Marteau et al in 2002 (3) de"ned them as "microbial preparations or components of microbial cells that have a bene"cial e!ect on health and well being"

Normal human skin can produce a range of anti-microbial chemicals that play an important part in eliminating potential cutaneous pathogens. Lactobacillus plantarum is a Gram-positive bacteria that produces antimicrobial peptides which when applied to skin can act like an anti in#ammatory as well as enhance the antimicrobial properties of skin. Clinical studies were conducted to determine the e!ect of the probiotic lactobacillus extract on improvement of skin barrier and reduction of: erythema from chemical irritant, skin micro#ora and acne. In this study we observed the activity of a probi-otic; lactobacillus extract on acne and its causative components namely in#ammation, microbial activity and poor skin barrier. lactobacillus extract was signi"cantly e!ective in reducing erythema from a topical irritant thus showing its potential for down-regulating the expression of molecules implicated in cutaneous in#ammation presumably similar to that induced by P. acnes.

BIO: Executive Director of Research and Development Estee Lauder Companies. Formerly Dr. Mammone was a research scientist in the department of biochemistry at Stony Brook. He received his Bachelor of Science degree in Biochemistry from the State University of New York at Stony Brook, his Ph.D. in molecular and cellular biology from St. John’s University in New York and his MBA from Dowling College in New York.

He originally joined Estee Lauder Companies in 1986 and was instrumental in the creation of The Skin Biology Lab, a research group in Melville, New York that grows cells in order to study the aging process and the biology of the human skin. Overseeing eight scientists in the lab, Dr. Mammone examined everything from apoptosis in the skin and skin pigmentation to collagen and keratinocyte di!erentiation.

In 2009, Dr. Mammone formed a new department call Skin Physiology and Pharmacology at Estee Lauder. This group is responsible for investigating the physiology of skin and hair. They also investigate new delivery systems for skin and the potential of new ingredients to e!ect hair and skin function.

3:00pmSmitha Rao MS, Smitha Rao MS, MBA; Global Innovation; Lonza Consumer Care: Biotechnology Innovations for High-Perfomance Cosmetics Products

Historically, fermentation is de"ned as a natural process of converting complex carbohydrates into alcohols typically using bacteria or yeast. Documented evidence of traditional wine and beer fermentation with yeast have been around since 3000 BC. Since the discovery of antibiotics by microorganisms, particularly fungi, in the 1920s, biotransformation of ingredients via fermentation has been explored for pharmaceutical applications. Currently fermentation and cell culture encompass a wide range of organisms including bacteria and fungi, plants, algae and mammalian cells. Harnessing the power of bio-transformation of organisms has been explored for a multitude of industrial bene"ts including pharmaceu-tical, nutritional, bio-energy and cosmetic applications.

The bio-transformation techniques employed for cosmetic and personal care traditionally focuses on natural method-ologies primarily using safe microbes and plants. In addition, much of the process of fermentation and cell-culture can be in a controlled environment and elicited to express secondary metabolites and novel bio-active ingredients. These ingredients expressed during fermentation are typically extremely di$cult to isolate, and not usually found in nature in appreciable quantities. Therefore, fermentation and cell culture are oftentimes the most sustainable means of isolating unique ingredients with tremendous potential for personal care applications. For example, cell cultures of economically

important plants are a sustainable means to express important bioactive components such as enzymes and small mol-ecules. This is more economical and sustainable compared to harvesting compounds from "eld grown crude plant biomass. Current industry practices for personal care focuses on exploring novel extracts and components generated by bio-transformation that are both natural and recombinant. These novel ingredients can be peptides, prote-neaceous extracts, enzymes, small molecules and phyto-active components.

The focus of this scienti"c seminar is to describe the bio-technology strategies for developing novel ingredients gener-ated from organisms for cosmetic and topical applications. The session will detail the innovation strategies for expedit-ing discovery of new compounds and the success of these molecules for cosmetic applications. The sectionwill conclude with the future outlook for bio-actives in personal care and identify upcoming areas of innovation.

BIO: Smitha Rao manages Global Innovation for Lonza Personal Care. Her present focus is developing novel, patent-able, products for personal care and OTC markets. Leveraging the principles of ‘open innovation‘ Smitha is establishing a global alliance of technology partners for Lonza. She is presently developing a business strategy to introduce cross-functional technologies such as peptides, mammalian tissues, and nutritional ingredients to the personal care and OTC market. She manages R&D activities for executing NPD projects and for consumer care with speci"c expertise in biotechnology based products. Her work focuses on the adaptation of unique small-molecules from plants exhibiting key functionalities; and the enhancement of these molecules via bio-transformation through fermentation. Smitha has lead the development of several award winning technologies for topical applications.Smitha has numerous patents based on novel actives for skin care. She is the author of several technical papers, post-ers and has presented papers at all cosmetic industry events such as SCC, IFSCC, HBA and SID. She previously worked in the pharmaceutical industry at Alpharma Inc. and MicaGenix Inc. Her quali"cations include an MBA from Farleigh Dickenson University; M.S. in Microbiology from Michigan Technological University and B.S. from Bangalore University, India.

4:00pmNelson Ayala, Ph.D., MBA, DTM CB Fleet Laboratories: Wine, Roses, and Champagne

The job of the cosmetic chemist is to create products of high appeal for their consumers. The sensory aspects of the product development is all important to the commercial success of the product on the shelf. In the same way, the world of wine relies heavily on sensory aspects to market their products to consumers. This talk will be exploration of the sensorial aspects of wine enjoyment. A selection of choice 8 popular wines from around the world will be sampled. Learning about the art of evaluating a wine will add greatly to the enjoyment of the wines that we will be tasting. Come and have your senses excited with this highly interactive wine tasting seminar.

BIO: The speaker is employed as a senior product development scientist at CB Fleet Laboratories, Lynchburg, Virginia where he works in the area of feminine hygiene and gastrointestinal products. For 9 years, Nelson was employed a tour guide at the Brotherhood Winery, in Washingtonville, New York. Dr. Ayala is also a Distinguished Toastmaster, having been a member of Toastmasters for 23 years, and has presented seminars on topics relating to cosmetic science, career development, and wine tasting and enjoyment to a wide variety of audiences. In this seminar, Dr. Ayala, will share with us his love of wine and his knowledge of wines, accumulated from many years of active involvement in wine tastings.

5:00pm- Cocktail Hour

2013 SPEAKER BIO/ABSTRACT

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1:00pmSteve Schnittger: The Use of Fermentation in the Personal Care Industry

Fermentation has been used for many years in the pharmaceutical industry as a means of producing active ingredients through the growth of bacteria, yeast and mold. A majority of present day antibiotics were produced through bacterial fermentation with their molecular structures than being isolated and synthesized in the lab for large scale production.

This same technology is now being used in the cosmetic industry to develop ingredients which are safe, cost e!ective, and whose activity is consistent from batch to batch. Since many of these ferments are either water soluble or spray dried and concentrated, their ease of incorporation is also a major bene"t to the cosmetic chemists.

This presentation will discuss some of the basics techniques involved with fermentation, further expand on some of the bene"ts of fermentation, discuss the downstream processing used to extract and purify these active molecules, and give examples of some the success stories that have been generated at Estee Lauder.

BIO: Steven Schnittger – Steve is presently the Vice President – Global Micro-biology and Biotechnology- R&D for the Estee Lauder Companies. He has been with Estee for over 20 years all within the Microbiology and Bio-Ferm Lab. Primary responsibilities are in the area of cosmetic preservation and advising the chemist on new formulations. Other responsibilities include developing new active ingredients through fermentation, advising manu-facturing on cleaning and sanitization procedures and assisting quality assurance and manufacturing when problems arise. Works closely with the safety group in "nding the balance between safety and preservation.

Before coming to Estee Lauder, Steve worked for Ralston Purina Company and attended school at the University of Tulsa majoring in microbiology. He is past - chairman of the CTFA Microbiology Committee, active member of the U.S. TAG / ISO committee for Cosmetic Microbiology, member of the American Society of Microbiology, Society of Cosmetic Chemists and the Institute of Food Technology. Holds numerous patents in cosmetic science fermentation and frequently is asked to give presentations on preservation, risk assessment and fermentation.

2:00pmThomas Mammone Ph.D., MBA Estee lauder companies: Physiological E!ect of a Probiotic on Skin

The concept of probiotics likely dates back to 1908, when Noble Prize winner Eli Metchniko! suggested that the long life of Bulgarian peasants resulted from their consumption of fermented milk products. The term "probiotic" was "rst used in 1965, by Lilly and Stillwell for describing substances secreted by one organism which stimulate the growth of another (2). Marteau et al in 2002 (3) de"ned them as "microbial preparations or components of microbial cells that have a bene"cial e!ect on health and well being"

Normal human skin can produce a range of anti-microbial chemicals that play an important part in eliminating potential cutaneous pathogens. Lactobacillus plantarum is a Gram-positive bacteria that produces antimicrobial peptides which when applied to skin can act like an anti in#ammatory as well as enhance the antimicrobial properties of skin. Clinical studies were conducted to determine the e!ect of the probiotic lactobacillus extract on improvement of skin barrier and reduction of: erythema from chemical irritant, skin micro#ora and acne. In this study we observed the activity of a probi-otic; lactobacillus extract on acne and its causative components namely in#ammation, microbial activity and poor skin barrier. lactobacillus extract was signi"cantly e!ective in reducing erythema from a topical irritant thus showing its potential for down-regulating the expression of molecules implicated in cutaneous in#ammation presumably similar to that induced by P. acnes.

BIO: Executive Director of Research and Development Estee Lauder Companies. Formerly Dr. Mammone was a research scientist in the department of biochemistry at Stony Brook. He received his Bachelor of Science degree in Biochemistry from the State University of New York at Stony Brook, his Ph.D. in molecular and cellular biology from St. John’s University in New York and his MBA from Dowling College in New York.

He originally joined Estee Lauder Companies in 1986 and was instrumental in the creation of The Skin Biology Lab, a research group in Melville, New York that grows cells in order to study the aging process and the biology of the human skin. Overseeing eight scientists in the lab, Dr. Mammone examined everything from apoptosis in the skin and skin pigmentation to collagen and keratinocyte di!erentiation.

In 2009, Dr. Mammone formed a new department call Skin Physiology and Pharmacology at Estee Lauder. This group is responsible for investigating the physiology of skin and hair. They also investigate new delivery systems for skin and the potential of new ingredients to e!ect hair and skin function.

3:00pmSmitha Rao MS, Smitha Rao MS, MBA; Global Innovation; Lonza Consumer Care: Biotechnology Innovations for High-Perfomance Cosmetics Products

Historically, fermentation is de"ned as a natural process of converting complex carbohydrates into alcohols typically using bacteria or yeast. Documented evidence of traditional wine and beer fermentation with yeast have been around since 3000 BC. Since the discovery of antibiotics by microorganisms, particularly fungi, in the 1920s, biotransformation of ingredients via fermentation has been explored for pharmaceutical applications. Currently fermentation and cell culture encompass a wide range of organisms including bacteria and fungi, plants, algae and mammalian cells. Harnessing the power of bio-transformation of organisms has been explored for a multitude of industrial bene"ts including pharmaceu-tical, nutritional, bio-energy and cosmetic applications.

The bio-transformation techniques employed for cosmetic and personal care traditionally focuses on natural method-ologies primarily using safe microbes and plants. In addition, much of the process of fermentation and cell-culture can be in a controlled environment and elicited to express secondary metabolites and novel bio-active ingredients. These ingredients expressed during fermentation are typically extremely di$cult to isolate, and not usually found in nature in appreciable quantities. Therefore, fermentation and cell culture are oftentimes the most sustainable means of isolating unique ingredients with tremendous potential for personal care applications. For example, cell cultures of economically

important plants are a sustainable means to express important bioactive components such as enzymes and small mol-ecules. This is more economical and sustainable compared to harvesting compounds from "eld grown crude plant biomass. Current industry practices for personal care focuses on exploring novel extracts and components generated by bio-transformation that are both natural and recombinant. These novel ingredients can be peptides, prote-neaceous extracts, enzymes, small molecules and phyto-active components.

The focus of this scienti"c seminar is to describe the bio-technology strategies for developing novel ingredients gener-ated from organisms for cosmetic and topical applications. The session will detail the innovation strategies for expedit-ing discovery of new compounds and the success of these molecules for cosmetic applications. The sectionwill conclude with the future outlook for bio-actives in personal care and identify upcoming areas of innovation.

BIO: Smitha Rao manages Global Innovation for Lonza Personal Care. Her present focus is developing novel, patent-able, products for personal care and OTC markets. Leveraging the principles of ‘open innovation‘ Smitha is establishing a global alliance of technology partners for Lonza. She is presently developing a business strategy to introduce cross-functional technologies such as peptides, mammalian tissues, and nutritional ingredients to the personal care and OTC market. She manages R&D activities for executing NPD projects and for consumer care with speci"c expertise in biotechnology based products. Her work focuses on the adaptation of unique small-molecules from plants exhibiting key functionalities; and the enhancement of these molecules via bio-transformation through fermentation. Smitha has lead the development of several award winning technologies for topical applications.Smitha has numerous patents based on novel actives for skin care. She is the author of several technical papers, post-ers and has presented papers at all cosmetic industry events such as SCC, IFSCC, HBA and SID. She previously worked in the pharmaceutical industry at Alpharma Inc. and MicaGenix Inc. Her quali"cations include an MBA from Farleigh Dickenson University; M.S. in Microbiology from Michigan Technological University and B.S. from Bangalore University, India.

4:00pmNelson Ayala, Ph.D., MBA, DTM CB Fleet Laboratories: Wine, Roses, and Champagne

The job of the cosmetic chemist is to create products of high appeal for their consumers. The sensory aspects of the product development is all important to the commercial success of the product on the shelf. In the same way, the world of wine relies heavily on sensory aspects to market their products to consumers. This talk will be exploration of the sensorial aspects of wine enjoyment. A selection of choice 8 popular wines from around the world will be sampled. Learning about the art of evaluating a wine will add greatly to the enjoyment of the wines that we will be tasting. Come and have your senses excited with this highly interactive wine tasting seminar.

BIO: The speaker is employed as a senior product development scientist at CB Fleet Laboratories, Lynchburg, Virginia where he works in the area of feminine hygiene and gastrointestinal products. For 9 years, Nelson was employed a tour guide at the Brotherhood Winery, in Washingtonville, New York. Dr. Ayala is also a Distinguished Toastmaster, having been a member of Toastmasters for 23 years, and has presented seminars on topics relating to cosmetic science, career development, and wine tasting and enjoyment to a wide variety of audiences. In this seminar, Dr. Ayala, will share with us his love of wine and his knowledge of wines, accumulated from many years of active involvement in wine tastings.

5:00pm- Cocktail Hour

[8]

1:00pmSteve Schnittger: The Use of Fermentation in the Personal Care Industry

Fermentation has been used for many years in the pharmaceutical industry as a means of producing active ingredients through the growth of bacteria, yeast and mold. A majority of present day antibiotics were produced through bacterial fermentation with their molecular structures than being isolated and synthesized in the lab for large scale production.

This same technology is now being used in the cosmetic industry to develop ingredients which are safe, cost e!ective, and whose activity is consistent from batch to batch. Since many of these ferments are either water soluble or spray dried and concentrated, their ease of incorporation is also a major bene"t to the cosmetic chemists.

This presentation will discuss some of the basics techniques involved with fermentation, further expand on some of the bene"ts of fermentation, discuss the downstream processing used to extract and purify these active molecules, and give examples of some the success stories that have been generated at Estee Lauder.

BIO: Steven Schnittger – Steve is presently the Vice President – Global Micro-biology and Biotechnology- R&D for the Estee Lauder Companies. He has been with Estee for over 20 years all within the Microbiology and Bio-Ferm Lab. Primary responsibilities are in the area of cosmetic preservation and advising the chemist on new formulations. Other responsibilities include developing new active ingredients through fermentation, advising manu-facturing on cleaning and sanitization procedures and assisting quality assurance and manufacturing when problems arise. Works closely with the safety group in "nding the balance between safety and preservation.

Before coming to Estee Lauder, Steve worked for Ralston Purina Company and attended school at the University of Tulsa majoring in microbiology. He is past - chairman of the CTFA Microbiology Committee, active member of the U.S. TAG / ISO committee for Cosmetic Microbiology, member of the American Society of Microbiology, Society of Cosmetic Chemists and the Institute of Food Technology. Holds numerous patents in cosmetic science fermentation and frequently is asked to give presentations on preservation, risk assessment and fermentation.

2:00pmThomas Mammone Ph.D., MBA Estee lauder companies: Physiological E!ect of a Probiotic on Skin

The concept of probiotics likely dates back to 1908, when Noble Prize winner Eli Metchniko! suggested that the long life of Bulgarian peasants resulted from their consumption of fermented milk products. The term "probiotic" was "rst used in 1965, by Lilly and Stillwell for describing substances secreted by one organism which stimulate the growth of another (2). Marteau et al in 2002 (3) de"ned them as "microbial preparations or components of microbial cells that have a bene"cial e!ect on health and well being"

Normal human skin can produce a range of anti-microbial chemicals that play an important part in eliminating potential cutaneous pathogens. Lactobacillus plantarum is a Gram-positive bacteria that produces antimicrobial peptides which when applied to skin can act like an anti in#ammatory as well as enhance the antimicrobial properties of skin. Clinical studies were conducted to determine the e!ect of the probiotic lactobacillus extract on improvement of skin barrier and reduction of: erythema from chemical irritant, skin micro#ora and acne. In this study we observed the activity of a probi-otic; lactobacillus extract on acne and its causative components namely in#ammation, microbial activity and poor skin barrier. lactobacillus extract was signi"cantly e!ective in reducing erythema from a topical irritant thus showing its potential for down-regulating the expression of molecules implicated in cutaneous in#ammation presumably similar to that induced by P. acnes.

BIO: Executive Director of Research and Development Estee Lauder Companies. Formerly Dr. Mammone was a research scientist in the department of biochemistry at Stony Brook. He received his Bachelor of Science degree in Biochemistry from the State University of New York at Stony Brook, his Ph.D. in molecular and cellular biology from St. John’s University in New York and his MBA from Dowling College in New York.

He originally joined Estee Lauder Companies in 1986 and was instrumental in the creation of The Skin Biology Lab, a research group in Melville, New York that grows cells in order to study the aging process and the biology of the human skin. Overseeing eight scientists in the lab, Dr. Mammone examined everything from apoptosis in the skin and skin pigmentation to collagen and keratinocyte di!erentiation.

In 2009, Dr. Mammone formed a new department call Skin Physiology and Pharmacology at Estee Lauder. This group is responsible for investigating the physiology of skin and hair. They also investigate new delivery systems for skin and the potential of new ingredients to e!ect hair and skin function.

3:00pmSmitha Rao MS, Smitha Rao MS, MBA; Global Innovation; Lonza Consumer Care: Biotechnology Innovations for High-Perfomance Cosmetics Products

Historically, fermentation is de"ned as a natural process of converting complex carbohydrates into alcohols typically using bacteria or yeast. Documented evidence of traditional wine and beer fermentation with yeast have been around since 3000 BC. Since the discovery of antibiotics by microorganisms, particularly fungi, in the 1920s, biotransformation of ingredients via fermentation has been explored for pharmaceutical applications. Currently fermentation and cell culture encompass a wide range of organisms including bacteria and fungi, plants, algae and mammalian cells. Harnessing the power of bio-transformation of organisms has been explored for a multitude of industrial bene"ts including pharmaceu-tical, nutritional, bio-energy and cosmetic applications.

The bio-transformation techniques employed for cosmetic and personal care traditionally focuses on natural method-ologies primarily using safe microbes and plants. In addition, much of the process of fermentation and cell-culture can be in a controlled environment and elicited to express secondary metabolites and novel bio-active ingredients. These ingredients expressed during fermentation are typically extremely di$cult to isolate, and not usually found in nature in appreciable quantities. Therefore, fermentation and cell culture are oftentimes the most sustainable means of isolating unique ingredients with tremendous potential for personal care applications. For example, cell cultures of economically

important plants are a sustainable means to express important bioactive components such as enzymes and small mol-ecules. This is more economical and sustainable compared to harvesting compounds from "eld grown crude plant biomass. Current industry practices for personal care focuses on exploring novel extracts and components generated by bio-transformation that are both natural and recombinant. These novel ingredients can be peptides, prote-neaceous extracts, enzymes, small molecules and phyto-active components.

The focus of this scienti"c seminar is to describe the bio-technology strategies for developing novel ingredients gener-ated from organisms for cosmetic and topical applications. The session will detail the innovation strategies for expedit-ing discovery of new compounds and the success of these molecules for cosmetic applications. The sectionwill conclude with the future outlook for bio-actives in personal care and identify upcoming areas of innovation.

BIO: Smitha Rao manages Global Innovation for Lonza Personal Care. Her present focus is developing novel, patent-able, products for personal care and OTC markets. Leveraging the principles of ‘open innovation‘ Smitha is establishing a global alliance of technology partners for Lonza. She is presently developing a business strategy to introduce cross-functional technologies such as peptides, mammalian tissues, and nutritional ingredients to the personal care and OTC market. She manages R&D activities for executing NPD projects and for consumer care with speci"c expertise in biotechnology based products. Her work focuses on the adaptation of unique small-molecules from plants exhibiting key functionalities; and the enhancement of these molecules via bio-transformation through fermentation. Smitha has lead the development of several award winning technologies for topical applications.Smitha has numerous patents based on novel actives for skin care. She is the author of several technical papers, post-ers and has presented papers at all cosmetic industry events such as SCC, IFSCC, HBA and SID. She previously worked in the pharmaceutical industry at Alpharma Inc. and MicaGenix Inc. Her quali"cations include an MBA from Farleigh Dickenson University; M.S. in Microbiology from Michigan Technological University and B.S. from Bangalore University, India.

4:00pmNelson Ayala, Ph.D., MBA, DTM CB Fleet Laboratories: Wine, Roses, and Champagne

The job of the cosmetic chemist is to create products of high appeal for their consumers. The sensory aspects of the product development is all important to the commercial success of the product on the shelf. In the same way, the world of wine relies heavily on sensory aspects to market their products to consumers. This talk will be exploration of the sensorial aspects of wine enjoyment. A selection of choice 8 popular wines from around the world will be sampled. Learning about the art of evaluating a wine will add greatly to the enjoyment of the wines that we will be tasting. Come and have your senses excited with this highly interactive wine tasting seminar.

BIO: The speaker is employed as a senior product development scientist at CB Fleet Laboratories, Lynchburg, Virginia where he works in the area of feminine hygiene and gastrointestinal products. For 9 years, Nelson was employed a tour guide at the Brotherhood Winery, in Washingtonville, New York. Dr. Ayala is also a Distinguished Toastmaster, having been a member of Toastmasters for 23 years, and has presented seminars on topics relating to cosmetic science, career development, and wine tasting and enjoyment to a wide variety of audiences. In this seminar, Dr. Ayala, will share with us his love of wine and his knowledge of wines, accumulated from many years of active involvement in wine tastings.

5:00pm- Cocktail Hour

[9]

[10]

Argan Oil Red Palm Oil Sweet Almond Oil Jojoba Oil

Tea Tree Oil Natural Silicone Alternative Natural Lanolin Alternative

High demand personal care ingredients to inspire you.

Find more info at www.charkit.com

[11]

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SEE MORE PICTURESWWW.LISCC.ORG

[13]

EVENTSWWW.LISCC.ORG

. ...

ANNUAL GOLF OUTINGSeptember 11th, 2013

EDUCATIONAL SEMINARSeptember 19th, 2013

CHAPTER MEETINGThursday Nov. 21st, 2013

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CONTACT US

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2013 ADVISOR Paul Marotta 631-531-1074

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Answers to Summer Newsletter Crossword Puzzle

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The US Society of Cosmetic Chemists hosts the 29th IFSCC Congress

October 23-26, 2016

Walt Disney World Dolphin Resort

Lake Buena Vista, Florida

Beyond Dreams into New Frontiers: Inspire, Imagine, Innovate

Inspire Imagine Innovate

BEYO

ND

DRE

AMS

INTO NEW FRONTIERS

INSPIRE IMAGINE INNOVATE

2 9 T H CO N G R E S SO R L A N D O, F L 2 016

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