2011 Home and Garden

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Home and Garden Special Home and Garden Show Fri. April 8th noon-7p.m. Sat. April 9th 9-5p.m. Montezuma County Fairgrounds Cortez, Colorado $ 2. 00 per person under 12 & Over 65-FREE 2011 A Special Supplement to the Cortez Journal in support of the Four Corners Builders Association Home and Garden Show Building a Better Community

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2011 Home and Garden

Transcript of 2011 Home and Garden

Page 1: 2011 Home and Garden

Home and Garden Special

Home and Garden ShowFri. April 8th noon-7p.m.

Sat. April 9th 9-5p.m.

Montezuma County Fairgrounds

Cortez, Colorado$2.00 per person

under 12 & Over 65-FREE

2011

A Special Supplement to the Cortez Journal in support of the Four Corners Builders Association Home and Garden Show

Building a Better

Community

Page 2: 2011 Home and Garden

2011 Home & Garden2  |

The annual Home & Garden Show is one of two major fund-raisers that support our Member Based,

non-profit association, as well as enable us to meet our operational expenses for the year.We appreciate the support of our sponsors,

vendors, and attendees!

Building a Better Community303 1/2 W. Montezuma Ave. • (970) 565-1771

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ProBuildLog Homes of the Southwest

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A Huge Thank You To Our Sponsors We Couldn’t Do It Without You!

• Ron Kotarski Memorial Playground - Dolores• Habitat for Humanity - Cortez and Durango

• Cultural Center Stairs• Leadership Montezuma - High School

• Home Aid Colorado• Cruzin Car Show - Cortez, Sponsor

• Booth at Ag Expo - with Habitat for Humanity, paid by HBA

• Wings Shelter - donation of new shed and shelving

• 4-H Shooting and Archery Club - large portion of parking receipt from H&G Show

• Picnic Tables - Fairgrounds• Child Advocacy

• Battle Rock Charter School• Girls Softball• 2 Scholarships

The following is a list of projects that Four Corners Builders Association has donated to in the past.

• Members have donated labor and materials for several local projects •

Member Based, Member Based, Member BasedSee us at the

Home & Garden Show

April 8th & 9th

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2011 Home & Garden |  3

Mary Hunt

It’s easy to spend a lot of money at the garden center this time of year, but it’s not necessary. In

fact, if you get clever, you’ll be able to keep your yard and garden look-ing beautiful on a shoestring! Here are a few ideas to develop your inner frugal gardener:

1. Bye-bye, aphids. Plant four or five peeled cloves of garlic near the bases of your rosebushes. In a few days, all the aphids will disappear. This non-toxic treatment is natural and remains effective for a long time.

2. Share yard tools. It’s unlikely that any one family will use all of its yard and garden tools all the time. That’s why it makes sense to share the cost and the use of expensive equipment. You’ll need to decide who services the shared lawn mower or stores the rakes and leaf blow-er. If you are flexible, it’s a great way to re-duce the cost of homeownership.

3. Hummingbirds, no bees. If you ap-ply Vaseline to the feeding spouts of your hummingbird feeder, the bees will not bother it. The Vaseline makes the bees get stuck, which they don’t like. Meanwhile, the hummingbirds are unharmed by this sticky situation.

4. Perfect pool filter. Position a piece of nylon hosiery or a knee-high over the end of a garden hose, tying it securely. While you fill your swimming pool, this will act as a fine filter to catch all of the sediment

f r o m the pipes that you do

not want clogging up your pool filter.5. Dirt-cheap. Next time you are at the

home improvement center or garden store, ask about “ripped bags” containing dirt or

mulch. Typically when the bags become torn, contents are re-bagged and sold for half-price.

6. Sheer coverage. Stop buying flimsy, expensive row covers to protect garden veggies from hail, cabbage butterflies, leaf miners and other airborne menaces.

Instead, purchase old sheer nylon curtains at garage sales and thrift shops. These are usu-ally cheap (or even free from family and friends, if they know you’ll take them off their hands) and will last for many years. Sheers repel hail and hot sun, yet they let in plenty of light, air and rain. Af-ter harvest, shake out the dirt, launder in hot water and store for next season.

7. Almost-free landscaping. You can get shrubs and other plants for your yard and garden for free (or just the cost of transporting and transplanting) if you know where

to look. Many nurseries have “bone-

yards,” where they toss plants they deem unworthy of sale. Neigh-bors and strangers alike will often give you cuttings, seeds or divisions of plants you admire. If you know anyone who is part of the grounds crew of a large college or uni-versity, ask him or her to pass along any goodies he or she removes at work.

Budget gardening7 ways to build a garden on a shoestring

Home and Garden

Page 4: 2011 Home and Garden

Chandra Orr

Asian ladybird beetles originally were released in the U.S. as a means of pest control for crops, but they

quickly spread in distance and numbers and now threaten their native look-alikes by out-competing them for food – and they’re just one of 466 invasive insect spe-cies you might encounter in your lawn and garden, according to the Center for Inva-sive Species and Ecosystem Health.

Some invasive species are mere cast-aways, sightseers hitching rides on import-ed cargo, and offer little cause for concern. Others, though, are decimating forests and wreaking havoc on the environment.

The Asian long-horned beetle, for exam-ple, is believed to have arrived in the U.S. in wooden packing materials in cargo ship-ments from China. This black-and-white spotted beetle attacks hardwood trees and has hit New York and New Jersey especially hard, damaging maple trees as the larvae bore through the woody trunks.

“Each region suffers different kinds of invasions, often requiring concerted ef-forts by the entire community to eradicate or control,” says Danny Ledoux, author of “Pest Control Simplified for Everyone: Kill, Repel, or Mitigate Pests With or Without Pesticides.” “This mass effort makes an in-vasive species difficult to control because insects do not honor legal boundaries as to whom they wish to infest and destroy. They destroy wherever plentiful food ex-ists, making your garden a likely target – and any living organism that competes to eat, contaminate or destroy food requires prompt and effective control tactics.”

Invasive species tend to flourish in dis-turbed or unbalanced ecosystems, and the most destructive are those with few natu-ral predators in their new environments. Chemical and organic pesticides offer some protection against these unwanted visitors, but often, they already have gained a foothold in the local ecology by the time the problem is identified.

When an invasive species threatens in-digenous wildlife or attacks crops, it takes a determined effort on the part of govern-mental agencies, farmers and homeown-ers to tame the damage. To help stem the invasion, abide by government-sanctioned quarantines, and report interlopers when you see them. Also, promote biodiversity in your own backyard.

Five of the worst invasive insects that ho-meowners may encounter:

■ Asian citrus psyllid. “In citrus-growing states, the tiny Asian citrus psyllid poses a serious threat to both commercial and homegrown citrus trees,” says Lance Wal-heim, garden expert for Bayer Advanced and author of “Lawn Care for Dummies.” “The insect itself causes minor plant dam-age; the disease it carries is far worse.

Huanglongbing disease, also known as citrus greening disease, causes trees to produce green, misshapen and inedible fruit and generally kills the tree in just a few years. Worldwide, it is the most destructive disease of citrus, and there is no cure.”

Walheim cautions that homeowners should be aware of these pests because ho-meowners “may be on the front line when it comes to containing them. Do anything you can to protect valuable trees you al-ready have planted on your landscape and prevent the movement of the pest.”

Abide by quarantines, which are in place in all the citrus states, and check your trees often. Look for blotchy leaves, yellow shoots, twig dieback and fruit that stays green even when ripe.

“In Southern California, homeown-ers are encouraged to report pest findings and protect their trees by applying Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control. If insects are actually found on specific trees, the state will treat the trees,” Walheim says.

■ Asian tiger mosquito. These pesky pests arrived as stowaways in tire shipments from Japan, and though they don’t attack crops or native plants, Asian tiger mosqui-toes are one of the most dangerous inva-sives in the U.S.

“Although the Asian tiger mosquito doesn’t cause damage to gardens, it is an important vector of disease and inflicts painful, itchy bites,” says entomologist Jim Fredericks, director of technical services for the National Pest Management Asso-ciation. “It can transmit yellow fever, West Nile virus, St. Louis encephalitis and La Crosse encephalitis.”

The best form of control is to reduce their breeding areas. Like all mosquitoes, these invaders lay eggs in water – and their

larvae thrive in even small bodies of stand-ing water.

“Gardeners can reduce the potential for Asian tiger mosquitoes in their yards by removing sources of water that these in-sects use for breeding sites – clogged rain gutters, flowerpots, buckets, birdbaths, etc.,” Fredericks says.

■ Formosan subterranean termite. Origi-nally from the Far East, it has been nick-named the “super-termite” – and for good reason. Colonies can top 1 million members in the wild, and they have a vo-racious appetite. Though colonies in the U.S. are generally smaller, they consume wood at an alarming rate and can cause extensive structural damage to a home in a very short period of time.

“Formosan termites can cause extreme damage in only one year, compared with the five to seven years of their counter-parts,” says Greg Baumann, technical services director for Orkin. “Homeown-ers should look for signs of activity while working in the garden – damaged wood, piles of wings and termite tubes around trees.”

Any wood that has started to break down or decay is fair game, Baumann says, so don’t store unused lumber in the yard, and replace pressure-treated land-scape timbers every three years. Also, be mindful of local infestations and work with a quarantine mindset.

“Avoid transporting wooden objects, such as railroad ties and landscaping tim-bers, from areas that are infested,” Freder-icks says.

■ Emerald ash borer. Originally from eastern Asia, this bright metallic beetle has an appetite for ash trees, and in the U.S., it has caused extensive woodland damage across the Midwest and North-

east.As the larvae tunnel into the trees, the

canopy of the ash tree dies back, and new smaller shoots grow at the base of the tree. Then the bark splits, revealing the telltale S-shaped burrows and D-shaped exit holes of the larvae.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture and several state governments have instituted a quarantine program to stop the spread of the emerald ash borer. Those in the af-fected states – check http://www.Stop-TheBeetle.info for a map – are asked not to move firewood, which may harbor the beetles’ eggs and larvae. Instead, hom-eowners and campers are asked to “burn it where you buy it.”

Homeowners also should be cognizant of any ash trees on or near their property and report beetle damage to their local wildlife authorities.

■ Red imported fire ants. Native to South America, these reddish-brown ants are now common in the southwestern U.S. and pose a serious public health hazard.

The ants out-compete native species for food and attack the eggs and young of many bird and reptile species, but they also attack humans. When disturbed, they work together en masse to inflict painful, venomous stings that often result in a visit to the emergency room.

“These insects aren’t much of a threat to the garden, but gardeners should be-ware of them,” Baumann says. “They in-flict a painful bite, which can be fatal. Homeowners should always wear shoes and protective gear on their hands when gardening.”

Be on the lookout for large soil mounds, indicating an active colony, and keep them at bay by treating mounds to main-tain healthy turf.

2011 Home & Garden4  |

photo courtesy of DaviD cappaer

I N V A D E R S !Be on the lookout for invasive insects

The emerald ash borer has an appetite for ash trees. To tame the destruction of this invasive insect, several states in the Midwest have institut-ed a quarantine on firewood, which can contain eggs and larvae.

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Page 5: 2011 Home and Garden

2011 Home & Garden |  5

Diane SchlinDwein

If you’re someone who looks forward to autumn colors, then spring is the best time to start planning – and

planting – the trees, bushes and flowers that will brighten your landscape later this year.

“Integrating trees and shrubs with good fall color into the landscape with spring- and summer-blooming trees and shrubs makes for a yard with color and beauty from spring to fall,” says garden-ing expert Charlie Nardozzi. “The actual colors of the leaves in fall depend on plant variety and weather. People should check local garden centers for the best trees, shrubs and varieties for their area. Spring and fall planting are best.”

Nardozzi – author of “The Ultimate Gardener,” “Vegetable Gardening for Dummies” and the online newsletter Ed-ible Landscaping – says some trees have a natural beauty all year long. “You can also look for trees, such as river birch and Amur maple, with interesting bark color and texture for winter viewing,” he says.

David Myers, who owns and operates Davidsan’s Japanese Maples with his wife, Gale, says, “Japanese maples are ornamental trees, not shade trees,” that will grow well in several regions.

There are many kinds of Japanese maples, and most of them are beautiful in the spring, summer and fall, says My-ers, who offers 225 different cultivars of the popular maple, along with ginkgoes and other trees, at http://www.David-

sansJapaneseMaples.com.“They are gorgeous in the spring and

in the fall,” he says. “In my opinion, they are prettier up close in the spring, but from a distance, they are pretty in the fall.”

Two of his favorite Japanese maples are Acer japonicum, which has “fabulous fall colors of bright red and orange,” and Acer palmatum, or “Osakazuki,” which is “brilliant in the fall.”

Myers says Japanese maples take time

to grow. “I would say that if you are older and you want to be able to enjoy the tree pretty quickly, then you should buy a bigger tree. If you are younger and you’ll be staying put for a while, then you can get a smaller one,” he says.

Where you plant a tree makes all the difference, too. “If you live in the North, it takes a couple of years for a Japanese maple to get acclimated. I have one I planted here in Springfield, Ill., 15 years ago, and it is just 12 feet tall,” he says. “If I

had planted the same tree in Oregon, for example, it would have grown to be huge by now.”

Not all Japanese maples are meant to grow to great heights, Myers says. “There are a few Japanese maples that are ‘mini.’ Nothing ever really stops growing, but when you buy a dwarf Japanese maple, which I specialize in, or a dwarf conifer, it will generally stay small during most folks’ tenure in a current residence. Al-ways remember that some dwarfs will be very short but may become wide. Luck-ily, most Japanese maples, including dwarfs, lend themselves to being easily trimmed without dampening their beau-ty.”

If you want to add flavor to your yard but can’t invest in a large tree, burning bush is one of your best bets for autumn color. In the fall, the blue-green leaves turn a fiery, flaming red. Better yet, burn-ing bushes grow in almost any part of the country and have terrific drought toler-ance once they are established. Plant them in small groups in full sun so they’ll look their best in the fall.

Finally, nothing says “autumn” in the garden like chrysanthemums. Mums come in about 20 species and are prob-ably the most famous fall flower – often sold in pots at garden centers across the country. Generally grown as annuals, they also can be planted as bare-root perennials in the spring. Spring planting will help the yellow, white, orange, red, lavender, bronze or purple beauties sur-vive the winter and will provide cheerful beauty for several autumns to come.

Planting for fall colorNow’s the time to act

courtesy of Gale Myers

Start planting now for beautiful fall colors later. Pictured is a Japanese maple cultivar called “Mirte.”

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Page 6: 2011 Home and Garden

2011 Home & Garden6  |

Chandra Orr

Reptiles and amphibians have a way of giving even the most levelheaded gardener the willies, but those slimy,

slithering critters in your garden are actually a good thing.

From frogs and toads to salamanders, snakes and turtles, these coldblooded crea-tures are your garden’s first line of defense against pests, so tempt them into stick-ing around with appealing landscape fea-tures, safe sunning spots and pesticide-free snacking grounds.

“Reptiles and amphibians are an integral part of an ecosystem in balance,” says Dave Collins, curator of forests for the Tennessee Aquarium. “When a system is out of bal-ance, certain species proliferate and can dominate the scene.”

Take mosquitoes, for example. “If adult mosquitoes find a little pool of water that has no natural predators in it, they can quickly produce hundreds or thousands of new mosquitoes, but salamander larvae love to snack on mosquito larvae and keep these guys in check,” Collins explains. “Most people don’t even know these creatures are around them, but they’re doing a big job day in and day out.”

In fact, your garden may be home to all manner of helpful herpetofauna.

“All snakes and amphibians, as well as many lizards and turtles, are carnivores and help control populations of insects, rabbits and rodents that could otherwise become garden pests,” says David Mizejewski, natu-ralist with the National Wildlife Federation and author of “Attracting Birds, Butterflies and Other Backyard Wildlife.”

Yes, even the unsavory snake has its

place.“Snakes not only eat insects galore that

can devastate plants but also consume rodents that can ruin a lawn and garden area,” says Annette Pelliccio, founder and CEO of The Happy Gardener Inc. “They can take care of moles and voles, which are some of the worst visitors to any lawn. Gar-ter snakes love to eat slugs, which can be a major pesky visitor to any flower or veggie garden.”

In the process of providing natural pest control, reptiles and amphibians also help recycle nutrients back into the soil so plants can thrive, and burrowing toads, turtles and snakes help break up compacted soil.

“Some turtles, such as box turtles and gopher and desert tortoises, even help spread the seeds of plants when they con-sume fruits,” Mizejewski says.

Help Them Help YouReptiles and amphibians are ectothermic

– that is, they rely on the environment to reg-ulate their body temperature, moving from sun to shade throughout the day. Tempt them into the garden with well-placed bask-ing areas and plenty of hiding spots to give them the warmth and security they crave.

“Avoid large unbroken expanses of lawn. They offer little to wildlife,” Collins says. “Reptiles and amphibians love edges. Wide pathways between flower beds and gardens let the sun in for animals that need to ther-moregulate. When warm, they can move back into taller vegetation for cover and for-age for worms, slugs, bugs or greens.”

Break up large expanses of grass with natural terrain features, such as brush piles, clusters of rocks, flower beds and tall grass-es, all of which make appealing homes.

“Amphibians and snakes will use brush piles, rock piles and ground cover to hide from predators and ambush prey,” Mize-jewski says. “A whimsical ‘toad abode’ mimics these natural spaces. You can pur-chase one or simply put out a broken clay flowerpot.”

Also, consider adding a water feature, such as a small pond or stream, to attract frogs, salamanders and turtles. It need not be large, Pelliccio says, but it should include gradual slopes so turtles and amphibians can enter and exit easily and a few rocks or logs for sunbathing.

Keep in mind that reptiles and amphib-ians are especially sensitive to environ-mental contaminants, so cut back on the chemical pesticides, especially near water-ways. Pesticides not only eliminate the food supply but also can eliminate these natural predators.

Amphibians are especially susceptible. They can easily absorb toxins through their thin, porous skin – and if it’s strong enough to kill the most tenacious insect or rodent, it’s strong enough to kill a frog or salaman-der. Skip the chemicals, and let these elu-sive creatures do the work instead.

“Whether it’s a snake eating rodents, a box turtle eating slugs or a lizard or frog eat-ing bugs, it seems a lot more sensible than spreading toxic chemicals in our yards, which sends the entire system out of whack and exposes pets and families to toxins,” Collins says.

HerpetofaunaKeep those reptiles and amphibians around

THE GOOD GUYSEncourage these common interlopers to stick around. They’re your first line of defense

against garden pests. ■ Garter Snakes

Characterized by black, brown and green “racing stripes,” these little guys help keep slugs, snails, grasshoppers and small rodents in check. You may spy them basking on rock piles, woodpiles or even concrete walkways, but there’s nothing to fear.

As with most garden visitors, the old adage holds true: They’re more frightened of you than you are of them. They may bite, but they have tiny teeth that are usually incapable of breaking the skin. They’re likelier to defecate in defense, so handle them only if you must.

A woodpile or brush pile located off the beaten path offers the ideal home. ■ Box Turtles

You may find them grazing in the strawberry patch or sneaking a bite of tomato in the garden, but a bit of homegrown produce is a small price to pay for the service of this hearty reptile. Box turtles are omnivores, so they may nibble at the veggies, but they also take a big bite out of snails, slugs, grubs and worms and help spread seeds from native flora.

Box turtles generally do not bite. Instead, they simply hide when disturbed; they are the only kind of turtle capable of fully retracting into and closing its shell. Though they tend to have a lot of personality -- some might say they’re even cute – never take in a wild box turtle as a pet. They are protected in many areas and, like all reptiles, require care beyond what many families are prepared to give.

■ ToadsToads have voracious appetites, and they’ll eat just about anything that crosses their

path. From beetles and grasshoppers to grubs and tomato worms, if it moves and fits in their mouths, it’s fair game.

They may look rugged and bumpy, but like all amphibians, toads have sensitive skin, so only handle them if they are in harm’s way. Be forewarned, though: They won’t give you warts and they generally do not bite, but they do store a formidable reserve of urine to release in defense.

Help them find refuge by adding a few “toad abodes” in the garden; a few overturned terra-cotta flowerpots will do the trick.

■ SalamandersChances are you won’t even know these amphibians are around unless you happen

to unearth one while digging in the garden, yet they pull their weight when it comes to keeping pests in check.

Salamanders are primarily nocturnal and prefer the safety and comfort of damp soil. They often burrow into the garden or hide out under rocks or rotting logs during the day, but at night, they emerge to feed on all manner of insects, grubs and worms – and their appetite is unmatched.

If you do find one while digging in the garden, be sure to cover it back up with loose, damp soil, but refrain from moving it. Like toads, salamanders have sensitive skin, which can be damaged easily by well-meaning humans, so hands off unless they face direct harm.

courtesy of the tennessee AquArium

You maY not see them, but nocturnal tree frogs – such as this barking tree frog -- help keep pests in check. They have hearty appetites and a taste for bugs and beetles that dam-age garden and landscaping plants.

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Page 7: 2011 Home and Garden

2011 Home & Garden |  7

Melissa BoBBitt

With Americans battling bulg-es and anemic wages, they are seeking one-size-fits-all

solutions. What is a sustainable yet cost-effective method to combating hunger and obesity? Many recom-mend looking to one’s own backyard for the answer.

Organic gardening is gaining popu-larity in these cash-strapped times. From the most seasoned green thumbs to horticulture dummies, growing one’s own chemical-free food is becoming a coast-to-coast hobby.

According to the website Organic Gardening Guru, studies at the Uni-versity of Washington concluded that “children who eat a diet of organic food show a level of pesticides six times lower than” the level that “chil-dren who eat a diet of inorganically grown food” show. In addition, the website cites “horticulture therapy” as a benefit to tending one’s own gar-den. In other words, it can be a stress reliever.

The National Gardening Associa-tion’s Susan Littlefield mentions even more perks to this do-it-yourself movement, including the economic payoff.

“A good way to start is to grow what is expensive to purchase,” Littlefield says. “For example, you could go to the market and buy organic salad greens for $12 a pound. ... That’s a great way to get into gardening (your-self ) and save some money.”

And it turns out that salad ingre-dients are among the easiest edibles to grow – no matter where you call home. Littlefield explains: “People in urban areas, if they’ve got a rooftop or a steady fire escape, they can grow vegetables in containers. Lettuce is a great thing.” Cherry tomatoes and peppers are also good to grow in con-tainers.

It’s not the amount of space that matters when launching a successful organic garden; it’s the ingredients. Organic, by definition, means devoid of chemical agents in both the soil and the pest or weed control. So to start, one needs a nutrient-rich foun-dation for the plants.

Organic Gardening Guru says, “The ideal garden soil consists of 25 per-cent air, 25 percent water, 40 percent mineral matter and 10 percent organic matter.” An encyclopedic resource of soil types can be found in Organic

Gardening magazine and its accom-panying website, at http://www.Or-ganicGardening.com. The Rodales, the magazine’s publishers, have been tending to organic gardens for more than 60 years. One’s local home im-provement centers or nurseries will carry a variety of soils and containers for your planting needs.

Once the seedlings are placed in the appropriate soil and containers, it’s time to get creative. The secret behind a robust organic garden is the mulch. Littlefield frequently refers to com-post as black gold. “Any composting that you can do (for example, manure) is going to improve your soil.”

Take out the trash and see what can be salvaged to grow your food. Almost any organic material is help-ful, save for meat or dairy products, which could attract rodents. Cultivat-ing legumes (green beans, peas, etc.) can provide a continuous beneficial nitrogen cycle from soil to seed. Tea and coffee grounds are great compo-nents, as the caffeine serves as a natu-ral weedkiller.

To make one’s garden extra “green,” Organic Gardening Guru supports the use of old milk jugs, soda bottles and other plastic containers to protect the plants from frost and other harsh cli-mate conditions. Furthermore, laying strips of old newspaper underneath the soil bed can conserve water for the emerging crops.

Organic gardening isn’t just for the Birkenstock set anymore. During this economic stalemate, as awareness of the obesity epidemic grows, one’s self-sufficiency can, too. There’s some-thing to chew on.

How does your organic garden grow?

courtesy photo

NothiNg beats the taste of fresh organically grown vegetables.

“The ideal garden soil consists of25 percent air,

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Organic Gardening Guru

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Page 8: 2011 Home and Garden

2011 Home & Garden8  |

Sharon naylor

A rock garden creates visual interest along a garden pathway and also might “rescue” a section of your

lawn that is a dead zone – an area, per-haps root-bound, devoid of plant growth – or just a boring patch of grass. In less than a week, you can transform this dead zone into a Zen-like rock garden or cre-ate the illusion of a riverbed by adding beautiful plants and flowers to your rocky design.

First, identify the area you wish to des-ignate as a rock garden. Is it a large area? Small? Sunny? Shady? If you’ll landscape your rock bed with greenery or flow-ers, the sun/shade factor is quite impor-tant. Your passion for sun-loving flowers might inspire you to put your rock garden in a bright corner of your yard. Or your appreciation of shade-loving plants – for example, plantain lilies – could inspire you to build your rock garden beneath a shade tree.

Next, decide on your rock garden’s shape. A rounded-corner kidney shape is one of the most popular designs right now. S-shaped curving riverbed rock gar-dens are also at the top of homeowners’ wish lists. If you have a hilly backyard, your rock garden could be a half-circle at ground level, and there could be several stone steps leading up to the next layer. To help you establish your rock garden’s size and shape, use a can of light-colored spray paint to mark your outline on grass or dirt. You then have a visual of your gar-den’s shape, can change it to suit your preferences or the dimensions of your yard, and can measure your actual space to determine the true amount of soil and rocks you’ll need to fill your garden space.

Clear your garden space of any growth or debris using a rake or leaf blower. Use a hoe to break up and remove any ad-ditional growth or stones. Then use a metal edger to dig an established border around your rock garden’s outline.

Next, take a look around you at the ex-isting vegetation, the colors of trees, the color of your home, existing stones and boulders, and the colors of outcroppings or cliffs surrounding your home. The most balanced rock garden designs are inspired by their surroundings, blending into them, not fighting them through a contrasting color or a mismatched style. Scenery that says “adobe” calls for brown and beige rocks, for instance, whereas scenery that says “wine country” calls for burgundy and tan rocks. Let your sur-roundings help you decide on your col-ors and planting types.

After that, it’s time to pick out boulders as the focal points of your garden. Then choose round or egg-shaped smooth riv-er stones in solid, striated or speckled col-

ors. Select gravel as ground cover. As you look in garden centers or home improve-ment stores at different sizes, shapes and colors of stones, you will encounter the following main types of landscaping rocks: river rocks, which are round or oval and smooth; pea gravel, small round stones commonly used on pathways, walkways and driveways, available in tan, brown, gray, black and white; lava rock, a porous rock in brown, red or black, often placed at the bases of plants; and rose quartz, a lighter-colored rock in white to pale pink that gives a sparkling effect to your rock garden’s bed. You also will see large white dolomite boulders, known for keeping their white color even through weathering, and red granite boulders, which come in a range of reddish and rust colors.

A landscape specialist is often your best adviser on stone selections, assess-ing your property’s slope and drainage patterns to best plan your stone sizes, weights and placements. Discuss the smartest preparation of the soil below your rock garden, deciding on creating a soil-sand mix or laying down a pond-type tarp to cover with soil and your rock garden. From there, you’ll bring in your rocks and boulders, setting the lightest stones first and then the larger ones. This

is a weighty job, so expect to spend a day or two on this step alone.

Next comes the addition of your green-ery, flowering plants, succulents, bushes and other plants, giving your rock garden

a living element and your property a pop of color.

In the end, you have a nature-inspired rock garden, and you’ve improved the value of your home.

Rock gardensCreate a colorful and peaceful space in your yard

photo courtesy of the home Depot

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Page 9: 2011 Home and Garden

Creating a kitchen herb gardenAdd someflavor to your home

2011 Home & Garden |  9

Home gardeners and lawn en-thusiasts generally accumulate a number of tools of the trade

in order to successfully manage their gardening needs. As a result, many ho-meowners build a garden shed to store all their tools and lawn care accessories.

A garden shed presents an ideal way to store all of the tools and appliances needed for the weekend hobby. Plus, it enables homeowners to clear out clutter from the garage or basement. A locked garden shed can be a safe place in which to store sharp tools, fuel and some chemical products.

Just because the shed will have utility doesn’t mean it has to be an eyesore on the property. There are ways to create or purchase garden sheds that are aesthet-ically appealing and will blend in with the landscape or the main house.

Do-it-yourselfers who have decided to build a garden shed and want to do so affordably can shop around for low-er-priced material. It may be a good idea to purchase a framing kit from a home-improvement store or online retailer and then shop around for ex-terior materials. Individuals can also find used sheds from auction sites or newspaper classifieds and simply ret-rofit these structures to meet individual needs.

Although sheds will be exposed to the elements, because they are not live-able structures they don’t require the

same level of construction as a home or addition, like a garage. This means that a homeowner is able to save some money with materials. Pressboard may be durable enough and less expensive than plywood. There’s little need for in-sulation or expensive windows. In fact, unless it is for a decorative standpoint, windows are unnecessary altogether.

It is likely that people who have had recent upgrades made on their homes may have leftover materials that can be put to use on a garden shed. Roof-ing shingles, extra aluminum siding and wood trim can be used on the shed. Even leftover latex paints and stains can be use on the shed.

Homeowners should visit a retailer of prefabricated sheds to see how they are made. This can provide insight as to the size and structure and the type of con-struction that will be needed.

If budget is not a concern, homeown-ers may want to purchase pre-made sheds that can be customized to mimic the architecture and color of the per-son’s home. Stained glass and cottage features can make a shed seem like an intimate retreat nestled in the yard.

In addition to being a fine place to store garden tools, a shed can also be constructed to serve as a child’s play space. A miniature home in the yard can be a fun play zone for kids and be the centerpiece for hours of imaginative outdoor fun.

Create an affordable and attractive garden shed

courtesy photo

This decoraTive garden shed can be the ideal place to store garden tools and equip-ment. Or it can be used as a child’s backyard hideaway.

Sharon naylor

In today’s economy, with frugal households looking for ways to save money on groceries and many peo-

ple’s eco-consciousness and wanting to eat organic foods, lots of Americans are planning and planting gardens to grow their own vegetables, fruits and herbs. So has arisen the new trend of planting a kitchen garden.

The tradition of the kitchen garden started long ago, arriving with im-migrants who brought the concept to this country. In European countries, virtually all households had a garden plot filled with vegetables and herbs, and in Victorian England, kitchen gar-dens often covered acres of land and were tended by dozens of people. To-day the kitchen garden conforms to a household’s available space. It may be a 6-square-foot garden planted in a sunny backyard. Or it may be a raised garden bed with railroad ties as its bor-ders, designed and planted by children as a family project. Or it may be a sim-ple 2-foot planter set on a sunny ledge above the kitchen sink.

Using organic soil and plant nutri-ents, you easily can plant your own kitchen garden, filling it with the herbs you use in your own favorite recipes. Adventurous cooks might plant exotic spices, such as Russian oregano, globe basil, lemon thyme or Italian marjo-ram, which is found in most Italian home gardens.

According to Amy Jeanroy, who is About.com’s guide to herb gardens, the top herbs to include in today’s kitchen garden are:

■ Chives. They are a versatile herb that could add scent to a roasting chicken or be snipped into tiny pieces to top a baked potato. Chives grow quickly and brown quickly, so Jeanroy suggests a regular maintenance practice of snip-ping back chive growth to keep the plants standing straight and tall.

■ Thyme. Thyme is used in both cook-ing and in the brewing of teas, so this tasty herb is a top choice for a kitchen herb garden.

■ Tarragon. “French tarragon,” Jeanroy says, “lends itself well to any dairy or

egg dishes.” Tarragon also is used as a topper for many breakfast dishes, in-cluding omelets and scrambled eggs.

■ Marjoram. Jeanroy favors French marjoram, a versatile herb that pro-vides the flavor of oregano without the bitterness.

■ Sage. Sage often is used in poultry dishes and in savory beef dishes, in-cluding stews. It’s another of the herbs that some people brew as a tea, be-cause it’s believed to be an effective treatment for colds and sore throats.

Parsley is considered a top choice by gardening enthusiasts. Both the flat-leaf and curly edged varieties are used as flavor enhancers in sauces and la-sagnas, as well as in many slow cooker recipes. Oregano and basil are favorite herbs for those who consider Italian food to be their favorite cuisine, and cilantro makes the list for those who make guacamole or other Mexican foods, such as fajitas and burritos.

By virtue of its growing in your gar-den or planter and being fresh, an herb bunch’s flavor will be at its peak, adding such punch to a recipe that it eliminates the need for an unhealthy amount of salt to be added. For ex-ample, heart-healthy tomatoes are delicious snacks for your family in the form of salsa or tomato salad that has been spiced with your homegrown ba-sil.

The benefits of a kitchen herb garden are many, from health to budget, but perhaps the greatest perk of a kitchen garden is the almost meditative bliss that occurs when you’re tending your garden, communing with the earth, weeding your garden beds, putting loving care into a natural process that rewards you with taste and many com-pliments on your fine home cooking.

photo courtesy of White floWer farm

MarjoraM is a popular herb to have in a kitchen herb garden.

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Page 10: 2011 Home and Garden

2011 Home & Garden10  |

Sharon naylor

When you add a birdbath to your garden décor, you invite colorful, winged songbirds to your proper-

ty. They delight you with their songs and flit-ting play. You can delight them with a fresh, clean water source from which to drink.

Types of Birdbaths

First, choose your ideal design of bird-bath according to what would look best in your garden or yard.

■ Ground birdbaths are simple basins that rest on the ground and usually are shaped like a wide, round bowl. These low-set bird-baths provide a water source for birds, such as ducks and quail, and also may attract smaller birds alongside them.

■ Pedestal birdbaths are bowl-shaped or square-shaped stone basins set atop a ped-estal, raised from the ground. This is the most popular style for gardens and is quite easy to install, as well as easily reached for cleaning.

■ A fountain birdbath is one that has a fountain-style water feature to keep water moving in the basin, and garden enthusi-asts say they find the fountain sound to be soothing, an essential part of the garden en-

vironment they enjoy.You may wish to install a heated birdbath

that keeps standing water from freezing. This feature often is chosen for heavy, stone birdbaths or oversize bronze birdbaths that cannot be moved indoors during the winter months. And if you’re eco-minded, you’ll be happy to know that many birdbaths come with solar power panels to move or heat the water in the basin.

Choosing Your Materials

According to garden specialist David Brill, you can find birdbaths made from a wide variety of natural and aggregate mate-rials. The most common, according to Brill, are concrete, ceramic, copper and brass, both for their strength and their attractive appearance as an enhancement to a garden design.

For a more artistic look and perhaps a match to your garden design theme, you’ll find birdbaths made from glass or stone or ceramic embedded with shell or colored-glass mosaics. And for an upscale, dramatic fountain, marble is a common material.

Your chosen material should work with weather extremes. Ceramic, for instance, is more delicate than concrete and could be damaged by ice and snow falling from

a rooftop. Many gardeners, for this reason, choose lightweight plastic fountains that look like stone material but are light enough to move indoors during harsh winters.

The Right Size

To select the right size birdbath for your garden’s space, Brill suggests that you cut a few circles of different sizes out of card-board and place them in the spot where you wish to place your birdbath. This will give you an idea of the dimensions of the birdbath that would look most natural in your garden. “It’s always best to shop for birdbaths at a garden store,” Brill says. “An online photo’s printed dimensions will not be as evident to you as the im-pression that a birdbath gives in person.”

The Right Color

The most popular shade of birdbath right now, according to Brill, is slate gray. Tans and sandy shades are also in vogue. Earthy neutrals accent gardens beauti-fully, but let the flowers and trees stand out without color competition. Colored accents might be garden-matching green or the popular cobalt or aqua found in mosaic inserts.

The Cost

The cost of your birdbath will depend upon the material, size, design and de-tailing, as well as the presence of water features, solar power or heating ele-ments. The most common plastic bird-baths can be found at garden stores for about $20, and birdbaths made from decorative stone, aggregate, bronze or other materials may cost $150 or more. Don’t forget the need for a flat stone base on which your birdbath will sit, which may add another $15 or so to your tally.

Cleaning Your Birdbath

Many gardeners prefer pedestal bird-baths, which provide the easiest ac-cess for cleaning. Lightweight plastic birdbaths may be tipped to assist in the dumping of old water and rinsing during the cleaning process.

The positioning of your birdbath helps to keep it cleaner. Place it in a shady spot to keep it cooler and prevent excess al-gae growth. Don’t place it under a tree that drops leaves or flowers regularly, or those organic materials will rot in the standing water.

A bath for the birdsGood for the birds and a good garden accent for you

photo courtesy of Vista Wallpaper

A beAutiful birdbath looks great by itself, but it also attracts birds to watch.

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Page 11: 2011 Home and Garden

2011 Home & Garden |  11

Sharon naylor

Your front garden beds and veg-etable gardens are often your first targets for removing unsightly and

unwelcome weeds, but those persistent little weeds that pop up between your walkway stones and in cracks on your pa-tio, driveway and sidewalk also need to be removed, because that’s where you, your family and your pets walk, perhaps bare-foot.

Using toxic weedkillers in these traf-fic areas puts you and your loved ones at health risk while outside and can bring those dangerous chemicals into your home because they can be tracked in on the soles of shoes. So it’s best to create a nontoxic, all-natural weed-elimination plan for these non-garden locations around your house.

“The good news is that there are a lot of organic alternatives,” says Genevieve Schmidt, a landscaper who shares organ-ic gardening wisdom on her acclaimed blog, “North Coast Gardening.” “The bad news is that some organic techniques can require an upfront time investment, and organic weed sprays can be pricier than chemical sprays. Still, it’s worth a little extra effort to take care of the weeds in a sustainable way.”

Schmidt shares the following earth-friendly methods for removing weeds from stone cracks and patio surface di-vides around your property:

“Sidewalk cracks, gravel driveways and stone or brick pathways can be hard to remove weeds from because the weeds toughen up quickly and we can’t reach their roots. It’s nice to have a few stronger options for areas where we aren’t trying to grow anything.” No matter which prod-uct or natural method you use, she says, it’s important to protect any nearby plants from spray drift (when spray is carried in the breeze), and it’s also important to check your flagstones and other stones or curbs to be sure that your organic product doesn’t leave discoloration on them.

■ Household Product SolutionsFirst, Schmidt mentions household

vinegar as a popular all-natural solution for killing weeds. “Normal vinegar has a 5 percent acetic acid concentration, which isn’t high enough to kill sturdy, mature weeds but which will kill the baby sprout-lets coming up. You may need to apply vinegar twice to kill all the sprouts.” This method takes a few days to kill the weeds after saturation, at which point the dead weeds can be pulled up and discarded.

Next, Schmidt mentions a vinegar mix

that her fellow gardeners use. “House-hold vinegar with salt and soap. This is a rough solution, but multiple trusted sources have suggested mixing 4 cups of household vinegar with 1 cup of salt and then adding a half-teaspoon of liquid soap to help the solution stick to plants.” Schmidt warns that you definitely don’t want this sprayed anywhere near your planting beds or lawn.

Some gardeners swear by simple boil-ing water poured carefully onto weedy sections. Though it’s not the most ef-ficient weed-removal process, Schmidt says, “If you have an area of weeds right outside your kitchen door, why not dump your leftover boiling water on the weeds in between the sidewalk cracks? It works almost as well as the organic herbicides and makes more sense than dumping the water down the drain!” Keep in mind that boiling water will kill grass and other plants, as well as beneficial soil organ-isms, so keep this method to your drive-way, curbs and sidewalks.

■ Using Organic Weedkilling SpraysOrganic gardeners are quick to rec-

ommend effective nontoxic weedkilling sprays. Schmidt says: “I’ve found Weed Pharm extremely effective in my own tests. It’s the only food-grade herbicide currently on the market. It’s 20 percent acetic acid (as opposed to the 5 percent acetic acid in household vinegar), and it works the same way as the other organic herbicide sprays, by burning the waxy cuticle off aboveground portions of the plant.” When the cuticle is burned off, the weed’s cells cannot retain water, and thus it dies.

“It can also be injected into the tap-roots of dandelions or the base of the plant using a syringe. (The manufacturer recommends a 40 cubic-centimeter sy-ringe without a needle, like one you’d use to give your cat liquid medicines.) The best thing about this method is that you can kill dandelions fully in any weather; all weed sprays, organic or not, need tem-peratures of 60 degrees and dry weather to work their best, but this method is ef-fective even in the winter rain.”

Another product that Schmidt men-tions is Blackberry & Brush Block, by Greenergy. “Blackberry & Brush Block

is certified organic and has gotten high marks from the people I know who have used it,” she says. This spray tested well against woody weeds, such as blackber-ries, after several applications starting when the weeds are young.

“The nice thing about organic herbi-cides is that they only kill things that get their foliage coated with them, so if you have bulbs underground or tree roots nearby, you’re still safe, unlike with some traditional chemical herbicides.” Some of Schmidt’s followers apply organic weed-killer to weeds with craft sponges to elim-inate spray drift.

■ Weeding by HandOf course, you might choose the old-

fashioned method of weeding by hand, which provides you with exercise, as well as immediate results. The weeds are gone -- not browning as they die, to be pulled later. For stubborn weeds, use an inexpensive weed fork or Schmidt’s rec-ommended Japanese soil knife in light-weight stainless steel, which allows you to dig down to remove long weed tap-roots.

Goodbye, weedsOrganic weed control outside the garden

photo courtesy of food.com

Weed control does not have to be hazardous to anyone’s health. There are organic options, including household vinegar.

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Page 12: 2011 Home and Garden

2011 Home & Garden12  |

Tawny Maya Mccray

Water is one of our most pre-cious resources, and one of the places we use it most is

our lawns.“Lawn care makes up anywhere from

30 to 60 percent of water use in a typical American family,” says Greg Seaman, editor of Eartheasy.com. “Switching to drought-tolerant lawns that have

been devel-oped in the past 10 years can easily save you 50 to 75 percent of the amount of water you would need to grow a lawn.”

S e a m a n says that in order to help c o n s e r v e water, many people are moving away from the full, s i d e - t o -s i d e grass lawn and instead opting to put in drought-r e s i s t a n t landscaping, also known as xeriscap-ing.

“The single best method that anyone can use to achieve the benefits of xeriscaping is to plant local-ly available, native spe-cies of plants and shrubs,” Seaman says. “Those are the plants

that have adapted to your regional climate patterns.” The downside of xeriscaping is that it can be boring be-cause that’s what you’re used to see-ing.

“So what a lot of clever gardeners do is plant 80 percent of their shrubs in natives, and then they’ll pepper in 20 percent in ornamentals, which gives diversity and visual appeal to their gardens without consuming so many resources, especially water,” Seaman explains.

According to Seaman, shrub land-

scapes not only are water-efficient but also save maintenance and increase the value of the property. They’re also the cheapest and easiest to grow.

Seaman says that when switching to the drought-resistant lawn seed, you have to baby it for the first season, making sure to water it every day for up to three weeks to get germination. And then, for the first two to three weeks after germination, you have to water your lawn once or twice a week to get the sprout established. The payoff will be a yard that holds up for years to come, but you have to be dili-gent.

“It’s not instant,” Seaman says. “People often think that they’re going to have this miraculous green carpet in a week. It doesn’t work that way. You have to be on it. If you miss a day, you’ll lose it and have to start over.”

The best way to conserve water in any landscape is to water early in the morning – assuming it’s not windy, as that would result in about half the water’s ending up outside of the sprin-kler zone. Also, Seaman adds, you can train your lawn to be more drought-resistant by watering it infrequently, perhaps once a week. “But when you do water it, make sure that you water it at least an inch, which you can mea-sure by putting an empty tuna fish can in the sprinkler zone. When it fills up, you’ve got an inch,” he says.

Janet Nazy, executive director of the Partnership for Water Conservation, says that if you do stick with a basic grass lawn, let it go dormant instead of trying to keep it green all summer. “Grass is a water hog,” she says.

According to Nazy, pollution and global warming are only adding to our diminishing water supply, and water conservation is for not only us but also the ecosystem. “Plants, animals – we all share the same water,” she says. “We have to think of the rivers, the streams, the aquifers and making sure that those are maintained for wildlife. We’re trying to save water for future generations.”

Seaman says that if the sales of his company’s water conservation prod-ucts – including an array of rain bar-rels and soaker hoses – are any indi-cation, there appears to be a strong interest in water conservation across the board.

What it really comes down to, Sea-man says, is being mindful.

“I believe awareness is 75 percent of the solution,” he says. “If you make it a priority, you find ways – just in your daily life, just using common sense – to save water. For example, ‘Are we sprinkling the sidewalk, or are we sprinkling the lawn?’”

Water-wiseSave water with drought-resistant landscaping

“It’s not instant.

... People often

think that they’re

going to have this miracu-

lous green carpet in a week. It doesn’t

work that way. You

have to be on it.”

Greg Seamaneditor, Eartheasy.com

Sharon naylor

A beautiful container plant is shiny, strong and healthy, with flawless leaves and a sturdy stem – the pic-

ture of plant health. The foundation of any healthy container plant is the soil in which it grows, soil that’s rich with nutri-ents and kept moist and free of debris.

If your existing container plants – in-cluding small potted flowers and ferns indoors and container-bound ever-greens, strawberry pots and other out-door plants – don’t have that freshly planted, rich soil color, you may worry about your plant’s performance. And you may believe it’s time to change out your pots’ soil for an entirely fresh, nutrient-packed replanting of your greenery, flowers, kitchen herbs and other plants.

But repotting all of your container plants can be a time-consuming, expen-sive undertaking. The repotting of one large container plant can cost more than $30 in supplies, and repotting a half-doz-en indoor plants can cost an additional $25 to $45. After all, organic soils and organic plant food do cost more than non-organic varieties. And repotting is not only costly but also perhaps not even necessary at this time.

“Nine times out of 10, your soil is per-fectly fine,” says landscape and interior designer Tim Ghiselli. “So it’s most cost-efficient to use what you have and fresh-en it up a little bit.”

Ghiselli suggests the following steps for refreshing your container soil:

■ Carefully lift your plant and its sur-rounding soil out of your planter, and look at the soil. “Especially in larger planters, you may get a clogged hole where water got stuck in a section, re-sulting in moss or mold,” Ghiselli says. “Remove those bad sections from the soil, and then use your fingers to gently pull loose outer soil from the root base of your plant into a large gardening bowl.”

■ For indoor plants, pour into the bowl a small amount of fresh potting soil, and use your fingers to blend the old and

new soils together. ■ For outdoor planters, never use 100

percent potting soil to refresh your planter soil. Ghiselli says, “Always use a mixture of topsoil, peat and compost for outdoor planters to give them the nutri-ents their plants need.”

■ “Don’t put compost in your indoor planters, thinking you’re adding nu-trients,” Ghiselli says. “Compost is too heavy, and it can smell bad.”

■ After you give your new soil mixture a nice blending with your hands, Ghiselli says, you can add a Miracle-Gro pellet or another organic plant food additive according to package directions.

With your refreshed soil ready to go, an important, often-forgotten step comes next. Prepare your planter for the repotting. Wipe it clean inside with a damp cloth, and make sure the drain-age hole is open and wide. Next, place in the bottom of your pot a handful, no more than 2 inches high, of clean river stones or clean broken pieces of terra cotta. These items placed in the depths of the planter, by virtue of the spaces be-tween them, encourage water drainage, keeping the roots of the plant at peak performance.

Next, add a small amount of your re-freshed planter soil, and return your plant carefully to its planter. Add more refreshed soil, and give your plant a good watering for its first drink in its new home.

What about soil pH levels? “You can buy an inexpensive soil pH tester at your local garden supply store,” Ghiselli says. “Or you can bring a sample of your soil to your local town hall. Many town halls will test it for you.” So will many gar-den centers, and then their gardening experts will tell you the ideal pH-bal-ancing products for your plants’ needs, as well as answer your questions about specific types of plants’ soil, water and sun requirements. A little TLC for your indoor and outdoor plants allows them to enhance your lifestyle for a long time to come.

Refreshing container soilRejuvenate your plants

photo courtesy of Joseph toris

According to experts, your con-tainer plants’ soil is probably fine, but you may need to freshen it up.

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Page 13: 2011 Home and Garden

2011 Home & Garden |  13

Catherine MCnulty

The air is warmer; the sun is shin-ing longer and longer each day. No doubt about it, spring is here.

Time to get out and get dirty! So what if you don’t have a manor’s grounds to maintain? Even a small piece of land – or a window box or balcony – can be turned into a beautiful and beneficial garden.

If space is a concern, consider plant-ing a dwarf specimen of a plant you like. There are several different ways a plant can be “dwarfed.” Some dwarf plants have been bred to stay small even when fully grown, such as dwarf snapdragons, which stay between 8 and 12 inches, compared with a regular snapdragon’s 2 to 3 feet. Then there are plants that are kept small via pruning and restricted root growth. Perhaps the best-known of this type of dwarf plant is the bonsai.

The dwarf snapdragon and bonsai are just two examples of hundreds of differ-ent types of dwarf plants. You can find a dwarfed version of almost any type of

tree or shrub. Some of the more popular species include certain conifers, such as the white pine and the weeping Norway spruce, because they are so low-mainte-nance. But just because a tree has been “dwarfed” doesn’t mean it will be tiny. A coast redwood can reach a height of more than 300 feet. The dwarf version grows to be only 3 feet high, according to HGTV. However, it can be 15 feet wide, so make sure you have enough space to accommodate it.

Before you can decide what you want to plant, you have to know what would thrive. First, observe the area in which you want to plant. If it’s outside, what are the temperature extremes it would have to endure? How much direct sun-light would it get? What other elements would your plant be exposed to (e.g., an exhaust vent from the laundry)? How much water would the plant need? Those are questions you need to answer before you start digging.

Generally, dwarf trees are hardier and can survive under harsher condi-tions than their regular counterparts,

but certain ones still need adequate sunlight. And certain types do better in pots, whereas others thrive after being planted in the ground. With so many options to choose from, make sure you get one that is appropriate for the area you’re planting in and can survive the conditions it will be exposed to. Dwarf trees are ideal for people who don’t have a lot of time to give to gardening, as they (especially conifers) suffer from few dis-eases and parasites.

If you’re looking for something more colorful than dwarf trees, there are plen-ty of dwarf flowers out there. Want to see a bunch of cheerful sunflowers but don’t want them towering above you? Not a problem. The dwarf variety only grows to be 12 to 18 inches high. As with the trees, there are dwarf varieties of almost every type of flower.

Dwarf flowers are an excellent choice for containers and window boxes. Make sure your container has drainage holes so that the roots of your plant don’t get flooded and rot. Use a good mix of soil, and then start planting! Because it’s

such a small space, consider the aes-thetics of the end result. Get a lot of va-riety and texture to make something that is visually stunning and has depth.

There are even dwarf varieties of fruit trees, which can be beautiful ornamen-tal houseplants. The dwarf pomegranate tree only grows to be about 2 feet high and has vivid orange and red trumpet-shaped flowers. The fruit it bears is coral red and edible. Please be sure to check whether the fruit of a particular dwarf tree is edible, which is not always the case. Dwarf pomegranate trees are also able to withstand bonsai training and are highly prized by florists in the mak-ing of Christmas wreaths, but they can-not survive temperatures lower than 40 F.

The benefits of gardening are many: stress relief, activity, the satisfaction of watching something grow, etc. Having a garden space is also an excellent way to teach kids responsibility. Don’t let a per-ceived lack of space keep you from reap-ing the benefits. Find some space; find an appropriate plant; and dig in!

Dwarf plantsBig ideas for small spaces

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Page 14: 2011 Home and Garden

2011 Home & Garden14  |

Few things are as enjoyable for parents and grandparents as watching their children and

grandchildren play. As cherished as such playtime can be, it can quickly turn into a memory adults and chil-dren alike would prefer to forget if an injury occurs.

Playground accidents vary in sever-ity. Some produce just a scrape or a scratch, while more drastic accidents

can lead to broken bones or even death. And where those accidents oc-cur might come as a surprise to par-ents. Ten years ago, a study conducted by the Consumer Product Safety Com-mission discovered more deaths oc-curred on backyard playground equip-ment than on public playgrounds. A 2009 study from the CPSC found that 40 deaths were associated with play-ground equipment between 2001 to

2008, the majority of which were the result of hangings or asphyxiations.

Naturally, parents aware of such statistics are concerned, particularly those who want to erect a playground for their children on their own proper-ty. When building a home playground for children, parents should consider the following factors.

Location, location, location!

A home playground’s location is very important. When deciding where to put a playground, consider its ac-cessibility. Is the playground easily reached should an accident occur? Can children be seen playing from a nearby window? Should an accident occur, is the playground within ear-shot of the home? Kids often play on a home playground while their parents are inside, so be sure to locate the playground close enough to the home where you can see and hear your kids from the house, and in a spot that’s easy to get to should an accident oc-cur.

Equipment

Though most parents would love to build their children a home play-ground that rivals the nearby amuse-ment park, some equipment has his-torically proven to be more dangerous than others. A 2009 report from the CPSC indicated that climbers were associated with 23 percent of all play-ground injuries while swings were

associated with 22 percent. When installing equipment, be sure every-thing is installed in strict adherence to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Surfaces

According to the CPSC, 67 percent of playground accidents between 2001 and 2008 involved falls or equip-ment failure. Most kids are going to fall once or twice when playing on the playground. Parents can plan for such falls and minimize their child’s injury risk by installing impact-ab-sorbing surfaces beneath the play-ground. Such surfaces are the stan-dard at many public playgrounds and can make the difference between a simple fall or one that results in bro-ken bones or a trip to the emergency room.

Inspection

Kids often like to play rough, and as a result playgrounds commonly take quite a beating. Even if equipment was sturdy at installation and was in-stalled to the letter of the manufac-turer’s instructions, parents should routinely inspect equipment to en-sure it’s holding up to the wear and tear of children. Ask kids to let you know immediately if anything feels loose or isn’t working properly.

For more information, visit the Con-sumer Product Safety Commission at www.cpsc.gov.

Safety first when building backyard playground for kids

courtesy photo

Parents must consider a host of safety factors when building a backyard playground for children.

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Page 15: 2011 Home and Garden

2011 Home & Garden |  15

There’s little escape from a garden pest that has been increasingly showing up in yards and homes

in the Northeast. Wreaking havoc on ornamental plants, vegetables and fruit trees, this pest, simply put, stinks.

The brown marmorated stink bug is not native to North America, but it hitched a ride over from China and Ja-pan years ago. Since 1999, when the first documented cases of stink bugs were made, the bug has multiplied, so much so that stink bug plagues in many resi-dential areas have become common-place.

A stink bug is a true bug, feeding on many plants by piercing the host plant and sucking out juices with its probos-cis. The penetrated area can develop necrosis and damage affected plants in many ways. In Japan, the bug is known to be a pest to fruit and soybean crops.

Stink bugs get their names from the scent glands on the underside of the thorax between the first and second pair of legs. If the bugs are squashed, they can emit a foul smell, which is primarily used to thwart would-be predators.

Stink bugs begin to feed in late May or early June. They can be seen in abun-dance in outdoor areas, clinging to win-dow screens or walking along decks. Their size and appearance (almost an inch big, with a brown spiky-looking ar-

mor) often makes people weary of the bugs. Apart from the damage they do to plants, stink bugs are relatively harm-less to people and pets. Although they have wings and can fly, stink bugs are generally content to travel on their legs.

Homeowners should keep in mind that stink bugs prefer to overwinter in-side and hibernate. That means that come the fall season the bugs will seek entry to homes and buildings to beat the cold until they can venture out the next season. This is where they can be vexing to people. Coming across a stink bug tucked inside of a blanket or at the back of a closet can catch individuals off guard.

To prevent stink bugs from entering the home, homeowners can seal any openings to the outdoors as much as possible, caulking around windows and doors. Stink bugs can live up to a year or more and may reproduce several times if the weather conditions are right. It may be difficult to completely eradicate all pests.

Stink bugs do not bite or sting. If one is found inside or too close for com-fort, the best idea is to have it walk onto something, like a piece of paper or fly swatter and move it outdoors. Crushing the bug can cause it to emit a foul odor, although one bug alone is not enough to stink up a home.

Gardening fans find a growing garden pest just plain stinks

When the warm weather ar-rives, people venture out-doors and animals wake

up from hibernation. Many insects hatch or revive from winter slumber and can be commonly seen in and around the home.

Once temperatures rise to about 60 F, many insects start their life cycles anew with eggs or larva hatching and winged and webbed creatures rear-ing their attenaed heads. It can be frustrating for homeowners facing an insect infestation, especially when bugs are found in quantities inside or around the perimeter of the home.

There are many insects one might see in spring.

■ Ants: Small black ants, called pavement ants, come out of dor-mancy and begin to forage for food and nests. Although pavement ants build their colonies outdoors, they will venture inside for easy food sources. They can be nuisance pests if not quickly tackled. Carpenter ants are large, black ants that are found in and around the home. They build nests and channels in wood, so they can be particularly troublesome to homeowners for the potential struc-tural damage they may cause. If they are seen in number inside of the home, there already may be an es-tablished colony inside of the walls.

■ Bees: Bees and wasps may over-winter in home attics or eaves and then come out of dormancy. If a large bee is seen inside of the home, chances are it is a queen looking for a good nesting area in which to lay her eggs and set up her new colony. Treat bee and wasp problems early on before established nests can be created.

■ Termites: Subterranean termites swarm when it is warm or in the morning. Swarming termites are those taking flight to create new nests and colonies. Swarms can be scary for homeowners as they likely indicate a termite problem inside of the house. Consult with a profes-sional exterminator if termite infes-tation is suspected.

■ Spiders: Where there are other in-sects, there will be spiders to prey on them. When building a nest, spi-ders prefer out-of-the-way places that are dark and comfortable. There are some spiders, like the wolf spi-der, that will actively attack insects instead of lying in wait for a web to snare them. To keep spiders out of the home, make sure it is pest-free. Some homeowners like spiders around the home because they can prevent other insects from becoming nuisances.

■ Flies and gnats: Springtime may be a season when certain varieties

of flies and gnats emerge from their infant stages and take flight. Cer-tain flies and gnats bite, while others simply are buzzing nusiances.

■ House centipedes: It’s likely that homeowners will encounter house centipedes mostly in spring and fall because the insects are either com-ing out due to the warmer weather or retreating indoors to find a warm place to stay. These centipedes pre-fer a cool, damp place to live, like a basement or bathroom, and gener-ally lay 60 or more eggs at one time. They feed on many different insects, including spiders. But their alarming appearance, which includes 15 pairs of feathery legs, makes few home-owners content to share a residence with them.

As humans and other animals be-come active and enjoy the warmer weather, so, too, do many insects and arachnids. Springtime is a common season to encounter many of the “bugs” that disappeared when winter weather reared its ugly head.

Identify all those pesky springtime pests

courtesy photo

Bees are among the many insects that return to wreak havoc once the weather warms up.

courtesy photo

The Brown marmorated stink bug is native to Asia, but it is now calling North America home as well.

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2011 Home & Garden16  |

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