2010.10.11.Active Ingredients

SILENCE TEACHING - COSMETIC CHEMISTRY

Instruction for educator

The activity requires students to be split up in 4 groups. Each group of students are required to

complete the quizzes of 4 different products using the following resource and then discuss the

answers in class.

Milady’s Skin Care & Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary

PRODUCT 1

Active ingredients: Water (Aqua), Sodium Laureth Sulfate,

Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate,

Hexylene Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lavandula

Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Melissa Offinalis Leaf Extract,

Quilaja Saponaria Bark Extract, Lavandula Anguustifolia

(Lavender) Oil, Melissa Offinalis Leaf Oil, PPG-5-Ceteth-20,

Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol,

Methylparaben, Propylparaben.

PRODUCT 1 – QUESTIONS

1. Name three ingredients used as preservatives in this product.

2. Name an active ingredient used as a surfactant and emulsifying agent in

this products.

3. Which active ingredient has the highest percentage?

4. Which two active ingredients in this product that has emulsifying,

cleansing and foaming properties?

5. Which active ingredient is used as a thickener?

6. What are the key ingredients in this product and Why?

7. What skin care product is this formulation designed for?

8. What skin type would this product be best for?

9. Is this product water based or oil based?

PRODUCT 2

Active Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride,

Butylene Glycol, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil,

PEG-8, Polysorbate 60, Cetyl Alcohol, Extracts of Citrus

Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower, Humulus Lupulus

(Hops), Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf, Equisetum

Arvense, Pinus Sylvestris Cone, Cirtus Medica Limonum

(Lemon) Fruit; Sorbitan Stearate, Ricinoleth-40, Beeswax

(Cera Alba), Ceresin, Benzyl Alcohol, Salidcylic Acid, Benzoic

Acid, Benzethonium Chloride, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ethylhexyl

Hydorxystearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aminmethyl Propanol,

Ascorbyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben,

Propylparaben, Propylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Carbomer,

Disodium EDTA, Benzophenone-4.

PRODUCT 2 - QUESTIONS

1. Which active ingredient served as a humectants and viscosity controller?

2. What is the benefit of Safflower Seed Oil in this product?

3. Which ingredient is used as an emollient with good spreading properties?


5. What is Polysorbate 60?

6. List the essential oils used in this product?

7. Why is Sorbitan Stearate used in this product?

8. List all the ingredients used as preservatives in this product.

9. Which active ingredient is used as a pH adjuster?

10. Name the two vitamins in this product. Explain the benefits in this

formulation.

11. List three ingredients used as preservatives in this product.




15. Does this product contain any artificial fragrance or colouring?

PRODUCT 3

Active Ingredients: Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyl

Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Tocopheryl

Acetate, Decyl Shea Butter Esters; Extracts of Citrus of

Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit, Fumaria Officinalis;

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Bisabolol, Butylene

Glycol, Tocopherol, Propylparaben, Fumaric Acid, Ascorbyl

Palmitate.


1. Which ingredient is a silicone based emollient?

2. What is Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer? Explain the

benefit of this active ingredient.

3. What does Dimethicone protect the skin against?

4. What are the benefits of Shea Butter?

5. What are the benefits of Evening Primrose Oil in this product?



8. Is this water or oil based product?

PRODUCT 4

Active Ingredients: Cyclopentasilozane, Bis-Diglyceryl

Polyacyladipate-2, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl

Ethylhexanoate, Polyethylene, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin

E), Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Chamonilla

Recutita (Matricaria) Extract, Corallina Officianalis Extract,

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera

(Grape) Seed Oil, Flavor, Ascorbic Acid, Glycyrrhetinic Acid,

Boron Nitride, Retinyl Palmitate.



2. What are the key active ingredients in this product?

3. List the combination antioxidant ingredients in this product?

4. Which ingredient reflects light and gives a sparkle effect?

5. Is this product best for anti-ageing or oily skin?

ANSWER GUIDE

PRODUCT 1 (Dermalogica – Special Cleansing Gel)

Active ingredients: Water (Aqua), Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Sodium

Trideceth Sulfate, Hexylene Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract,

Melissa Offinalis Leaf Extract, Quilaja Saponaria Bark Extract, Lavandula Anguustifolia (Lavender) Oil,

Melissa Offinalis Leaf Oil, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol,

Methylparaben, Propylparaben.

1. Name three ingredients used as preservatives in this product.

Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.

2. Name an active ingredient used as a surfactant and emulsifying agent in this products.

PPG-5-Ceteth-20


Water (Aqua)

4. Which two active ingredients in this product that has emulsifying, cleansing and foaming

properties?

Sodium Laureth Sulfate

Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate

5. Which active ingredient is used as a thickener?

Hydroxyethylcellulose

6. What are the key ingredients in this product and Why?

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract & Oil

o Have many great properties such as anti-inflammatory, antiseptic,

antibacterial, antispasmodic, balancing, energising, soothing, healing, tonic,

and stimulating.

o Works well on all skin types and produces excellent results when used for oily

skin as well as in the treatment of acne, burns, dermatitis, eczema, and

psoriasis.

o It also normalise any skin type and to stimulate cellular growth and

regeneration.

Melissa Offinalis Leaf Extract & Oil

o Its use is indicated for acne skin and for individuals with dermatitis and

eczema.


Gel Cleanser


Oily skin


Water based

ANSWER GUIDE

PRODUCT 2 (Dermalogica – Essential Cleansing Solution)

Active Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Carthamus Tinctorius

(Safflower) Seed Oil, PEG-8, Polysorbate 60, Cetyl Alcohol, Extracts of Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter

Orange) Flower, Humulus Lupulus (Hops), Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf, Equisetum

Arvense, Pinus Sylvestris Cone, Cirtus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit; Sorbitan Stearate, Ricinoleth-

40, Beeswax (Cera Alba), Ceresin, Benzyl Alcohol, Salidcylic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Benzethonium

Chloride, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ethylhexyl Hydorxystearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aminmethyl

Propanol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Propylene Glycol,

Dimethicone, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Benzophenone-4.

1. Which active ingredient served as a humectants and viscosity controller?

Butylene Glycol

2. What is the benefit of Safflower Seed Oil in this product?

Moisturising & hydrating properties to the skins

3. Which ingredient is used as an emollient with good spreading properties?

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride


Water (Aqua)

5. What is Polysorbate 60?

Polysorbate 60 is used as a detergent emulsifier for mineral oil, fats and waxes. It is

also a stabiliser of essential oils in water.

6. List the essential oils used in this product?

Extracts of Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower, Rosmarinus Officinalis

(Rosemary) Leaf & Cirtus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit.

7. Why is Sorbitan Stearate used in this product?

It is used as an emulsifier for water in oil product and also as a solubilizer of

essential oils in water.

8. List all the ingredients used as preservatives in this product.

Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, Benzethonium Chloride, Dehydroacetic Acid,


9. Which active ingredient is used as a pH adjuster?

Aminmethyl Propanol

10. Name the two vitamins in this product. Explain the benefits in this formulation.

Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) & Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C). Apart from its

natural healing and soothing properties. They are also used as preservative and

antioxidant to prevent rancidity of the product.

11. List three ingredients used as preservatives in this product.

Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, Benzethonium Chloride, Dehydroacetic Acid,



Milky/Creamy Cleanser


dry skin


Water based

15. Does this product contain any artificial fragrance or colouring?

No

ANSWER GUIDE

PRODUCT 3 (Dermalogica – Barrier Repair)

Active Ingredients: Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone,

Tocopheryl Acetate, Decyl Shea Butter Esters; Extracts of Citrus of Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit,

Fumaria Officinalis; Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Bisabolol, Butylene Glycol, Tocopherol,

Propylparaben, Fumaric Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate.

1. Which ingredient is a silicone based emollient?

Cyclopentasiloxane

2. What is Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer? Explain the benefit of this active

ingredient.

It is a thickener that can absorb skin oils, leaving a dry, silky feel.

3. What does Dimethicone protect the skin against?

It protects the skin from moisture loss.

4. What are the benefits of Shea Butter?

It protects the skin from dehydration and external aggressions due to harsh

climate, and is attributed with anti-inflammatory activity. It restores skin

suppleness, increases hydration, and can improve the appearance of irritated dry

skin.

5. What are the benefits of Evening Primrose Oil in this product?

It is helpful for skin irritations. Evening primrose oil contains a high amount of

gamma linoleic acid which is one of the essential fatty acids vital for maintaining

the normal functioning of the epithelial barrier membrane. It also improves the

skin’s hydration and its ability to develop normal barrier functions.


Moisturiser with occludent


Dehydrated skin

8. Is this water or oil based product?

Oil based

ANSWER GUIDE

PRODUCT 4 (Dermalogica – Multivitamin Power Firm)

Active Ingredients: Cyclopentasilozane, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Dimethicone Crosspolymer,

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Polyethylene, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea)

Leaf Extract, Chamonilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract, Corallina Officianalis Extract, Carthamus

Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Flavor, Ascorbic Acid, Glycyrrhetinic

Acid, Boron Nitride, Retinyl Palmitate.


Cyclopentasilozane

2. What are the key active ingredients in this product?

Tocopheryl Actqte, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Chamonilla Recutita

(Matricaria) Extract, Corallina Officianalis Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower)

Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Flavor, Ascorbic Acid & Retinyl Palmitate

3. List the combination antioxidant ingredients in this product?

Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E), Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) & Retinyl Palmitate

(Vitamin A)

4. Which ingredient reflects light and gives a sparkle effect?

Boron Nitride

5. Is this product best for anti-ageing or oily skin?

Anti-ageing

2010.10.11.Active Ingredients

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