2006-13 - Tectilon - Erionyl - Lanaset - Polar

I

Ciba Specialty Chemicals

Value beyond chemistry

Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends Ciba® TECTILON® — Ciba® ERIONYL® A — Ciba® LANASET® — Ciba® POLAR® dyes

Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

II

Content

CH 1 : Description 1

Characteristics and benefits of the Ciba concept for polyamide/elastane 1

General 2

Outlets 2

Polyamide fibers 2

Elastane fibers 3

General precautions (storage) 3

Processing routes 4

Relaxation 4

Heat setting 4

Processing of circular knits 4

Pretreatment 4

Scouring/relaxation 4

Bleaching/fluorescent whitening 5

Dyeing machines 5

Dye selection 6

Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes 7

Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes 8

Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes 9

Recommendations for combination shades 10

Dyeing 12

Parameters influencing dyeing 12

Dissolving the dyes 12

Dyeing chemicals 13

Dyeing procedures 14

Ciba® TECTILON®, Ciba® ERIONYL® A and Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes 14


Modified dyeing method for good leveling 16

Improving wet fastness properties 17

Aftertreatment in a fresh bath 17

Double aftertreatment for very high requirements 18

Finishing 19

Shading 19

Partial and radical stripping of faulty dyeings 19


III

Microfibers 20

Continuous dyeing of narrow fabrics 21

General 21

Steaming 22

Washing off and aftertreatment 22

Textile auxiliaries 23

Ciba® ALBEGAL® SET 23

Ciba® AVIVAN® SO NEW 23

CIBAFAST® AO 23

CIBAFIX® CL 23

CIBAFIX® ECO 23

CIBAFIX® PAS 23

CIBAFLOW® CIR 23

CIBAFLOW® JET 23

CIBAFLUID® C 23

CIBAFLUID® U 23

Ciba® CLARITE® PS 24

Ciba® FUMEXOL® DF 24

Ciba® HYDROPHOBOL® XAN 24

Ciba® IRGAPADOL® PN NEW 24

Ciba® INVADINE® DA 24

Ciba® INVADINE® LUN 24

Ciba® INVADINE® PBN 24

Ciba® INVATEX® CS 24

Ciba® MEGASOFT® JET-LF 25

Ciba® OLEOPHOBOL® S 25

Ciba® OLEOPHOBOL® 7713 25

Ciba® TINEGAL® W 25

Ciba® UNIVADINE® DP 25

Ciba® UNIVADINE® MC NEW 25

Ciba® UNIVADINE® PA NEW 25

Ciba® UNIVADINE® NT NEW 25

Ciba® ULTRAVON® EL 25

Ciba® ULTRATEX® UM NEW 25

Ciba® UVITEX® BHT liq. 115% 26

Ciba® UVITEX® CF liq. 200% 26

Ciba® UVITEX® NFW liq. 26

Ciba® UVITEX® PLF liq. 26

Ciba® ZEROSTAT® AT NEW 26


IV

CH 2 : Dyes 28

Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes 28

Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes 32


Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes 46

Notes on the pattern section 50

Standard dyeings 50

Fastness properties 50

Artificial light/Philips TL 84 51

Dischargeability 51

Build up 51

Migration 52

Barriness 52

CH 3 : Auxiliaries 53

Ciba® ALBEGAL® SET leveling agent 53

CIBAFAST® AO anti oxidant for polyamide 54

CIBAFIX® CL chlorine fastness improver 55

CIBAFIX® PAS fixative for polyamide 56

CIBAFIX® ECO fixative for cellulose 57

CIBAFLOW® CIR penetration accelerant 58

CIBAFLOW® JET penetration accelerant 59

CIBAFLUID® C lubricant 60

Ciba® UNIVADINE® MC NEW leveling agent for polyamide 61

Ciba® UNIVADINE PA NEW leveling agent for acid dyes / Ciba® UNIVADINE NT NEW leveling agent for acid dyes 62

CH 4 : Miscellaneous 63


Ciba Specialty Chemicals 1/63

CH 1 : Description

Characteristics and benefits of the Ciba concept for polyamide/elastane

Properties Customer benefits Broad dye selection ● brilliant shades with high wet and light fastness

● brilliant and restrained combination shades at all

depths

● flexibility for meeting changing market needs and

fashion trends

3 compact ranges with similar dyeing

behavior

Supported by selected brilliant acid dyes

● targeted dye selection for all requirements

● excellent compatibility

● easy dye selection

High fastness properties fulfilling various

requirements

● high light fastness for pale shades (TECTILON)

● high wet fastness for deep shades (LANASET)

● tailor-made products for all requirements

● suitable for Oeko-Tex Standard 100

Simple dyeing procedures ● cost effective day-to-day production

● safe and robust processes

High exhaustion ● good laboratory-to-bulk transfer

● excellent reproducibility

● minimal effluent pollution

Controlled elastane staining for all

requirements

● dye selection for tone-in-tone staining

● selected dyes give good reservation of elastane



General This pattern card provides recommendations on dyeing polyamide/elastane blends. All dyes used for polyamide stain elastane to a greater or lesser extent, therefore the wet fastness level on this blend is usually lower than on pure polyamide.

The dyes recommended for polyamide /elastane in this pattern card are:

● TECTILON dyes (acid dyes)

● ERIONYL A dyes (acid dyes)

● LANASET dyes (modified 1:2 metal complex and reactive dyes)

● POLAR dyes (acid dyes)

The ranges complement each other in their dyeing properties, and enable the different requirements in the

various outlets for polyamide/elastane material to be met.

The pattern card contains useful information on pretreatment, bleaching/fluorescent whitening, dye selection, compatibility, dyeing procedures and textile auxiliaries. Dyeing parameters are also detailed.

All dyes are illustrated as self shades on a representative swimwear fabric made from 40 denier extra dull PA 6 yarn blended with 20% elastane. All fastness data and details of application properties in this pattern card were tested on this material.

Outlets Textured and non-textured filament and staple fiber yarns are blended with elastane fibers to make a variety of knitted and woven elastic apparel e.g.: ● sports and swimwear ● underwear and foundation garments ● pantyhose and therapeutic elastic stockings ● elastic ribbons and tapes ● tulle and lace

Polyamide fibers Polyamide belongs to the polycondensate group of fibers, the most important of these being PA 6 (perlon type) and PA 66 (nylon type), which differ somewhat in their physical and dyeing properties.

The perlon type is slightly less temperature-resistant, but easier to dye. Somewhat better fastness properties can be expected with the nylon types.

The following fiber properties and/or pretreatment processes are among the parameters that can influence the result.

Fiber surface/cross section (round, trilobal, etc.) The more highly structured and the larger the surface, the lower the color strength and thus the lower the light fastness.

Fineness (dtex) The finer the fibers or fibrils, the lower the color strength and the wet fastness properties.

Delustring The higher the degree of delustring, the lower the color strength and thus the lower the light fastness.

Texturing Color strength is lower on textured than on smooth yarns.



Elastane fibers Elastane fibers (EL) consist of at least 85% polyurethane, built up of linear macromolecules arranged in

segments. The macromolecules contain alternating hard and soft segments. The hard segments (short

crystalline zones) impart stability to the fiber, the soft segments, which are long, unstructured and flexible,

give the polymer its rubber-like stretchiness. Elastane fibers can be stretched four to seven times their initial

length and spring back to the original length when the tension is released.

Elastane fibers are composed of fused filaments, fineness range 11–2500 dtex. They are available in dull

white, semi-transparent, bright and clear versions.

Elastane in blends with polyamide is used bare (foundation wear, swimwear, circular knits etc.) or covered by

PA (hosiery, socks, narrow fabrics, woven).

Elastane fibers are often stained by acid and metal complex dyes, but it is difficult to achieve tone-in-tone

effects, especially with the dull types used bare (not covered). Stretching such kind of fabrics can lead to

“grin through” of the elastic component. With the transparent types of elastane these undesirable features

are less marked.

Elastane fibers are resistant to acids, alkalis, oxidizing and reducing agents under the usual pretreatment,

dyeing and finishing conditions. Chlorine bleaching agents cause loss of strength and discoloration. There

are specific types of elastane, which are recommended for swimwear.

General precautions (storage) During spinning and winding of elastane high amounts of silicone oils and other lubricants are used. During

weaving and knitting further oils and auxiliaries are applied for good running properties. Degradation of these

products during long-term storage can lead to yellowing or, even worse, to a reduction of elasticity. A further

problem could be so called “cold setting”, causing permanent crease marks. Circular knit goods with a high

content of elastane are preferably cut directly on the knitting machine and rolled in open-width form.

These problems are made worse by improper storage conditions in warehouses, which are in most cases not

air-conditioned or where exhaust fumes from trucks and forklifts are present. Sunlight can also aggravate

degradation (outdoor storage). If storage periods of more than 3 months are not avoidable, the fabrics

should be sealed in plastic film which is impervious to both air and light.



Processing routes Most commonly relaxation and heat setting are the first steps prior to scouring. This is the more economical

route but it entails risks:

● during heat setting impurities and degradation products of lubricants can be baked into the fabric, forming

stains which resist even harsh scouring.

● heavy fumes can be created during heat setting, causing environmental problems and staining of the

stenter by condensation products.

If the above problems occur, scouring (i.e. on a soft flow jet) before heat setting is a good remedy. This

scouring step will also induce proper relaxation of the fabric so that further steam relaxation before heat

setting is not necessary.

Setting after dyeing can cause color changes through fiber yellowing or reduction of wet fastness owing to

thermomigration of dyes. Pre-setting conditions are therefore always more severe in order to allow post-

setting under milder conditions.

Relaxation During weaving or knitting the elastic yarns are under a certain tension, which is then incorporated in the

fabric. Relaxation prior to heat setting is an important part of processing elastic fabrics as it avoids rope

marks and puckering during dyeing and guarantees good dimensional stability. Depending on the processing

route, relaxation is done:

● by steaming (steam table or steam box in front of the stenter before heat-setting)

● in the pre-scouring bath before heat setting.

Heat setting Open width heat setting controlled by temperature, overfeed and holding to width determines the desired

stretch level as well as the final fabric weight and width.

Circular knitted material shows less tendency to selvage curling during dyeing if properly heat-set prior to

dyeing.

Heat setting is performed at 180 ~ 190°C/356 ~ 374°F for 30 ~ 45 sec. Higher temperatures cause

yellowing of elastane and reduction of elasticity.

Processing of circular knits Presetting of circular knitted fabrics necessitates slitting of the tubular rope. During dyeing the disadvantage

is curling of the selvages of the open width material, entailing a high risk of unlevelness. This risk can be

reduced by:

● gluing or gumming the selvages with water resistant products

● sewing the fabric into tubular form (labor intensive!)

● using air-flow type dyeing machines

Alternatively, if a special heat-setting machine for tubular material is used, the fabrics can be dyed in the

tubular make-up form without any problems.

Pretreatment

Scouring/relaxation

Silicone oils and lubricants should be thoroughly removed from the fabric before dyeing. They have a

negative influence on leveling of dyes, resulting in reduced fastness and limited build up.



Suggested recipe 1.0–3.0 g/L INVADINE DA or ULTRAVON EL

0.5–2.0 g/L INVATEX CS

1.0–3.0 g/L soda ash

liquor ratio 10:1 to 20:1

20–30 min at 60–90°C/140–194°F

hot rinse

A very essential part of the scouring process is the following rinse. The scouring liquor should never be cooled by rinsing with cold water because the emulsified oils will precipitate again, leaving spots on the textile. The most efficient routine is to give a good overflow rinse with hot water, then drain the machine and use cold water only in the final rinse before dyeing.

Bleaching/fluorescent whitening A high proportion of polyamide goes into white goods. Typical items are locknit charmeuse for underwear, lace and foundation garments. The usual reduction bleach is generally not sufficient to achieve the required degree of whiteness. The goods must therefore be fluorescent whitened in addition, preferably using products that are stable in the reduction bleach bath.

Suggested recipe 1.0–2.0 g/L INVADINE DA or ULTRAVON EL

3.0–5.0 g/L stabilized sodium dithionite, e.g. CLARITE PS

x g/L fluorescent whitening agent

liquor ratio 10:1 to 20:1

45–60 min at 75–80°C/167–176°F

Rinse and add 0.5 ml/L hydrogen peroxide 35% to the final rinsing bath to

remove residual sulfurous compounds.

If required, a fluorescent whitening agent (FWA) can be added to the reduction bleaching bath. The following FWAs can be used, depending on required shade. Care must be taken to adjust the pH to that most suitable for the respective product.

FWA Required amount pH Shade

UVITEX NFW liq. 0.5–2.0% 4–6 violet

UVITEX PLF liq. 0.5–2.5% 4–6 slightly reddish

UVITEX CF liq. 200% 0.5–2.0% 6–7 red

UVITEX BHT liq. 115% 0.75–3.0% 7 neutral blue

Dyeing machines High temperature and mechanical stress on the material during the dyeing process are factors which can cause a loss of elasticity. The sensitivity of the elastic material to the mechanical dyeing conditions is dependent on the content of elastane. The most sensitive are fabrics with more than 25% elastane, and to preserve their elasticity only beam dyeing machines are recommended for them.

Textiles containing more than 10% elastane should be dyed on so-called soft flow jets. The circulation of the rope of textile is very smooth and soft for two reasons: ● very short distance between liquor surface and winch ● fully flooded material transportation through the dye liquor.



Fabrics with less than 10% elastane can be dyed on modern air jets; they have a very low liquor ratio and their high speed guarantees good levelness. They are more useful than conventional jets for elastane fabrics because the air-flow used to transport the fabric reduces the liquor content in the textile, the wet fabric is therefore lighter and less stretched when pulled through the transportation unit.

A further advantage of this machine type is better opening of the rope during dyeing; this means less curling

of the selvages of open width circular knits.

Soft flow jets Air flow jets

● very low stretch due to short distance between liquor and winch

● good opening of the material (air)

● fully flooded material transportation ● guided transportation in layers through the machine

● ideal for most sensitive material with a high elastane content

● higher tension on the material than in soft flow jets

● fairly high liquor ratio ● very short liquor ratio

Dye selection

General Widely varying substrate forms and end products mean that the different requirements of polyamide dyeing cannot be covered by a single dye range. Selective use of the different ranges allows the different requirements to be met.

Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes TECTILON dyes are recommended for pale and medium shades, as wet fastness of deep dyeings is too low. The big advantage of these dyes lies in their outstanding leveling properties.

Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes ERIONYL A dyes have higher wet fastness than TECTILON dyes and are thus mainly used for medium and deep shades. Deep dyeings may require aftertreatment to achieve the required wet fastness standard.

Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes LANASET dyes are used in particular for medium to very deep shades. They generally do not require aftertreatment to achieve good wet fastness.

Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes POLAR dyes are brilliant highly fast acid dyes and complement the PA concept in the very brilliant shade areas.



Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes

Main characteristics

Compact range for bright and dull shades at pale to medium depths.

Low-molecular, monosulfonated acid dyes with very good migration and leveling properties.

Properties

● High light fastness, including in pale shades

● Outstanding migration and excellent leveling properties

● Very good coverage of physical affinity differences

● Ideal for pantyhose shades and typical pale underwear shades

● Fully compatible (trichromatic systems)

● Metal-free

● Simple dyeing procedure

Property profile

Wet fastness properties: SD 1/1, staining of PA, assessment against gray scale

Other properties: 1 = lowest, 5 = highest rating



Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes


A compatible range for a broad shade spectrum, including navy and black, and additional dyes for brilliant

fashion shades.

Monosulfonated and disulfonated acid dyes with medium to good migration and leveling properties.

Properties

● Good build up to deep shades on different types of polyamide

● Medium to very good light fastness properties

● Good wet fastness properties to medium shades; deep shades require aftertreatment

● Good coverage of physical barriness with the addition of a leveling agent

● Compatible dyes for a wide range of shades; on their own for brilliant fashion shades. Selected POLAR dyes supplement this shade area.

● Medium to good migration

Property profile





Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes


Broad, well-balanced shade range; particularly suitable for deep shades.

Modified 1:2 metal complex and reactive dyes with medium migration and leveling properties.

Properties

● Very good build up on different types of polyamide (microfibers)

● High light fastness at all shade depths

● Very high wet fastness properties, including in deep shades

● Medium migration, moderate coverage of physical affinity differences in the fiber. A new leveling agent and a modified dyeing procedure can help to overcome these limitations

● Good compatibility if recommendations are followed

Property profile





Recommendations for combination shades TECTILON, ERIONYL and LANASET dyes have their specific properties and applications. Mixing products from

the different ranges is not recommended.


All products within the range can be mixed with one another as required.

Trichromatic dyes: TECTILON Yellow 3R 200%

TECTILON Red 2B 200%

TECTILON Blue 4R-01 200%

Supplementary dyes:

(for green shades and to correct

shade change in artificial light)

TECTILON Yellow 2G 200%

TECTILON Blue 6G 200%


This range contains trichromatic dyes for a wide shade spectrum and supplementary dyes for brilliant fashion

shades.

Trichromatic dyes: ERIONYL Yellow A-R

ERIONYL Red A-2BF

ERIONYL Bordeaux A-5B

ERIONYL Blue A-R


When mixing LANASET dyes, certain rules should be observed. It is advisable to use the dye closest in color

to that required and to shade as appropriate. The following LANASET dyes are highly suitable for mixing and

shading, allowing a wide shade range to be covered:

LANASET Yellow 2R

LANASET Red G

LANASET Gray G

Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes

These dyes are used for self shades whenever high brilliancy is required.



Table 1 : Recommendations for combination shades

Shade area Yellow Orange Scarlet/

red

Bor-

deaux

Violet Blue Blue-

green/

tur-

quoise

Green/

olive

Brown/

beige/

gray

Navy Black

TECTILON

Yellow 2G

Yellow 3R ∆

Red 2B ∆

Blue 4R-01 ∆

Blue 6G

ERIONYL A

Yellow A-3G

Yellow A-R ∆

Red A-3G

Red A-2BF ∆

Red A-3B

Bord. A-5B ∆

Violet A-B

Blue A-R ∆

Blue A-4G

Turquoise A-G

Green A-BG

Navy A-R

Black M-R

Black M-BN

LANASET

Yellow 4GN

Yellow 2R

Orange RN

Brown G-01

Brown B

Red G

Red 2B

Bordeaux B

Violet B

Blue 2R

Blue 5G

Green B

Gray G

Navy R

Black B

= basis = shading component ∆ = trichromatic dye



Dyeing

Parameters influencing dyeing

Dyeing temperature Elastane fibers are sensitive to high temperatures. To preserve their elasticity dyeing temperatures above the

boil are not recommended.

Dyeing pH

The optimum pH varies with type of dye, shade depth and type of fiber. It is advisable to adjust the pH with

a buffer.

pH 4.5 5 5.5 6 6.5 7 8

Sodium acetate or

ammonium acetate g/L 0.5 1 2 2 2–3 — —

Acetic acid 80% ml/L 0.5 0.4 0.3 — — — —

Monosodium phosphate g/L — — — 2 1.5 0.5 —

Disodium phosphate g/L — — — 0.5 1 1.5 2

The pH depends closely on the process water, and the above figures should thus be regarded as guidelines. A

rise in pH is to be expected on heating permutit water.

Migration The movement of the dye in or on the substrate from points of higher to points of lower concentration is known as migration. Migration depends primarily on the constitution of the dye, but is also affected to a varying degree by the type of fiber and treatment conditions (pH, auxiliaries, temperature, time). Migration is an indication of the leveling power of a dye.

Barriness Production-related physical and chemical differences in the fiber material and also stretching differences can result in barriness. Barriness can be covered to varying degrees by selecting suitable dyes and using appropriate dyeing auxiliaries and procedures.

Build up Build up refers to the maximum shade depth achieved with a specific dye. It is primarily determined by the dye’s chemical constitution. Fiber properties, especially the saturation limit, also play a role.

Blocking

Mutual displacement of individual acid dyes from the fiber during dyeing is known as blocking. This effect

depends mainly on dye constitution, but also on dye concentration, fiber saturation, auxiliaries, pH and

temperature. Thus disulfo dyes on polyamide are blocked to a varying degree by monosulfo dyes. Dye

selection plays an important role in preventing blocking (see『Recommendations for combination

shades』page 10, 『Table 1 : Recommendations for combination shades』page 11).

Dissolving the dyes ● Paste the dye cold with soft water ● Add hot water (60–90°C/140–194°F) and boil up briefly with live steam if necessary ● Stir thoroughly (with rapid stirrer if necessary)

Auxiliaries and chemicals should not be added during dissolving. The dye solution should always be added to the dyebath through a strainer or sieve. For further details on solubility of the individual dyes, please see the fastness tables in the pattern section. The temperature of dye solutions containing LANASET Red 2B should not exceed 60°C/140°F.



Dyeing chemicals

Penetration accelerants

These products are added to the dyebath to de-aerate and rapidly wet out the goods. They also have a foam-

suppressing effect. The penetration accelerants recommended here, CIBAFLOW CIR and CIBAFLOW JET,

have specific applications. CIBAFLOW CIR achieves a balance between wetting out, de-aerating and

defoaming. It is mainly used in circulating liquor dyeing (beam dyeing). CIBAFLOW JET has a durable

antifoam effect and is used in jet dyeing.

Leveling agents for acid dyes

These retard exhaustion of the dyes, promote migration and thus improve levelness. UNIVADINE PA NEW

and UNIVADINE NT NEW have affinity for the fiber and are used in dyeing with TECTILON, ERIONYL and

POLAR dyes. UNIVADINE PA NEW fulfils highest standards of levelness with balanced migration, covering

of barriness, and retarding effect.

Leveling agents for LANASET dyes

ALBEGAL SET, which has affinity for the dye and the fiber, is used with LANASET dyes. UNIVADINE MC

NEW is especially suitable for promoting coverage of barriness caused by physical differences in the fiber

structure (crystallinity, cross section).

The products are suitable for use in dyeing polyamide fibers in all forms at the boil and under HT conditions.

Crease prevention

CIBAFLUID U and CIBAFLUID C are used for crease prevention in piece dyeing. They prevent cracks,

creases and abrasion marks in winches and jets without impairing the quality of the dyeing. These products

also enhance the running properties of elastic fabrics, resulting in less tension during dyeing and therefore

better preservation of the elasticity.



Dyeing procedures

Ciba® TECTILON®, Ciba® ERIONYL® A and Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes

Winch/overflow/jet

Beam/circulating liquor dyeing machine

A 0.3–0.5 g/L CIBAFLOW CIR or CIBAFLOW JET

1–2 g/L CIBAFLUID U or CIBAFLUID C

1.5–3 % UNIVADINE PA NEW or UNIVADINE NT NEW

0.5–2 g/L ammonium acetate or sodium acetate

pH 4.5–7 with acetic acid

B x % TECTILON or ERIONYL A dye

ERIONYL Black M-R: 2–4% acetic acid 80%

ERIONYL Black M-BN: 2% acetic acid 80% and 0.5–1.0 g/L UNIVADINE DP

Notes

TECTILON dyes are generally applied at pH 4.5–5.5, Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes at slightly higher pH (5–6). For

Ciba® ERIONYL® Turquoise A-G see『ERIONYL Turquoise A-G』page 34. A pH at around the top limit is

advisable for pale dyeings. Wet fastness properties can be improved by aftertreatment (see『Improving

wet fastness properties』page 17).




Winch/overflow/jet


*

* Same with『Ciba® TECTILON®, Ciba® ERIONYL® A and Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes』



1–2 % ALBEGAL SET or UNIVADINE MC NEW

1–2 g/L ammonium acetate or sodium acetate

pH 4.5–7 with acetic acid

B x % LANASET dye

LANASET Black B: 1.5-3% acetic acid 80%, pH 4-4.5



Modified dyeing method for good leveling

Winch/overflow/jet




1–2 % ALBEGAL SET or UNIVADINE MC NEW (for LANASET dyes)

1–3 % UNIVADINE PA NEW or UNIVADINE NT NEW (for acid dyes)

2 g/L disodium phosphate (Na2HPO4)

pH 8–8.5

B x % dyes

only for medium shades to ensure full exhaustion:

(C) y % diluted acetic acid or acid donor

Notes

Very high requirements for wash fastness at higher temperatures (60°C/140°F) force the dyer to switch to

high fastness dyes for shade areas where acid leveling dyes are normally used. High fastness dyes tend to be

unlevel and to accentuate physical affinity differences in polyamide fabrics, resulting in barriness. The reason

for this is the very fast first strike of such dyes if applied under slightly acid conditions. Their migration

properties are limited; this means that during heating and boiling there is not much chance to correct initial

unlevelness.

Experience has shown that dyeing at an alkaline pH is a very practical method of slowing down the exhaustion

rate and of greatly improving levelness. Typical pale underwear shades (skin shades) are dyed at pH 8 to 8.5.

This ensures outstanding slow tone-in-tone build up during heating, and full exhaustion at the boil, resulting

in excellent reproducibility.



Improving wet fastness properties Aftertreatment with CIBAFIX PAS can improve wet fastness properties of the dyes. This is best performed in

a fresh bath.

Aftertreatment can be performed in the exhausted dyebath, but this procedure is not really recommended as

the pH and the presence of nonionic leveling and wetting agents and detergents can severely impair its

efficacy.

Aftertreatment in a fresh bath

A 2–3 % CIBAFIX PAS

B pH 4.5 with acetic acid

Dissolving/diluting CIBAFIX PAS

CIBAFIX PAS can be diluted with cold or warm water in all proportions. The product should not be mixed with

concentrated acetic acid, as this can result in precipitation.



Double aftertreatment for very high requirements

A 2–3 % CIBAFIX PAS

B pH 4.5 with acetic acid

C 3.0 % CIBAFIX ECO

Notes

With very deep shades as well as with black and navy (dyed with premetallized dyes) on polyamide / elastane

blends, a further aftertreatment enhances fastness still more. After anionic fixation with CIBAFIX PAS the

cationic fixing agent CIBAFIX ECO is applied.

Thorough rinsing after application of CIBAFIX PAS is essential; residues in the bath will cause precipitation

with cationic fixing agents.

As a time-saving alternative, CIBAFIX ECO can also be applied together with a softener in a final pad

treatment before drying on the stenter.



Finishing

Softening by exhaust method

1–4 g/L MEGASOFT JET-LF

x % acetic acid

pH 5–5.5

20 min at 30–40°C/86–104°F, drain without further rinsing

Softening (and antistatic finish) by padding

10–15 g/L ULTRATEX UM NEW or AVIVAN SO NEW

(5–20 g/L ZEROSTAT AT NEW)

pick up 60–80%, drying

Oil, water and stain repellent finish

5 ml/L INVADINE PBN

1 ml/L acetic acid 80%

40–60 g/L OLEOPHOBOL S or OLEOPHOBOL 7713

0–10 g/L HYDROPHOBOL XAN

pick up 60–80%, rapid curing at 110–180°C/230–356°F (in stages) for 30–40 sec.

Shading If shading is required, the dyebath generally has to be cooled to 60–70°C/140–158°F before the dyes are

added. TECTILON dyes can also be added at temperatures close to the boil with the steam switched off.

Partial and radical stripping of faulty dyeings

Partial stripping If the goods cannot be re-dyed, dyeings that have turned out too deep or slightly unlevel can be partially

stripped or leveled in a fresh bath. The aftertreatment products are removed at the same time.

0.5 g/L CIBAFLOW CIR or CIBAFLOW JET

1–3 % TINEGAL W

pH 8–10 with soda ash

30 min at 98°C/208°F

In critical cases, the treatment can be repeated. Before re-dyeing, the pH must be corrected with acetic acid.

The attainable effects are shown in the table in the pattern section.



Radical stripping

Dyes can be radically or completely stripped by the following method:

Reduction

3 g/L Decrolin (BASF)

2 % formic acid 85%

30 min at 98°C/208°F

rinse warm and cold

Oxidation stripping with sodium chlorite is unsuitable because elastane fibers are not stable to chlorine.

Stripping can impair light fastness and build up of the dyes. The most suitable method must be determined

by conducting preliminary trials.

Microfibers

General High comfort in wear and easy care make woven and knitted goods of polyamide microfibers popular for

functional leisure and sports wear.

Polyamide microfibers, which are supplied by numerous manufacturers, vary widely in fineness, degree of

delustring, fiber profiles and surface modifications. Brand names include Supplex/Tactel (Du Pont), Meryl

Micro (Rhône-Poulenc, Viscosuisse) and Siks Micro (Snia Fibres).

Microfibers are polyamide filament yarns whose individual filament fineness is less than 1 dtex. Fabrics are

labeled “micro” if at least one system, warp or weft, consists of microfibers.

Fiber Fineness

Coarse > 7 dtex

Medium fine 7–2.4 dtex

Fine 2.4–1 dtex

Micro 1–0.3 dtex

Super fine < 0.3 dtex

Fastness properties

Light and wet fastness properties of polyamide microfibers are often considerably poorer (1/2 ~ 1 rating) than

those of conventional polyamide fibers. Fastness depends closely on the type of fiber.

Dyeing

On account of their extreme fineness, microfibers have several special dyeing characteristics, and these are

discussed below. For other information, please see the general section. Microfiber filament yarns require

higher amounts of dye than conventional filament yarns to achieve a given shade depth.

Fastness properties required of functional clothing are high and not always easy to achieve. TECTILON and ERIONYL A dyes are suitable for pale and medium shades (procedures described on page 14『Dyeing

procedures』). For good build up and high fastness with medium and deep shades, LANASET dyes are

usually required.



Build up of LANASET dyes at SD 3/1

(on PA 66, standard filament, dtex approx. 0.8/F)

* referred to 2 × N/L or 2 × B/Dk

Continuous dyeing of narrow fabrics

General

Elastic tapes and ribbons constitute a very important segment in the field of narrow fabrics. They are mainly

made from PA/EL in various blend ratios and patterns.

The majority of these narrow fabrics are dyed by the continuous method, as this increases productivity and

allows orders to be fulfilled at short notice. The pad-steam procedure comprises the following steps:

● padding

● fixation

● washing off

● aftertreatment (if required)

● drying

Fastness requirements depend on the end product. As narrow fabrics are frequently used for underwear,

fastness to perspiration and washing are essential. Fastness to rubbing is important with deep dyeings.

Products from the TECTILON, ERIONYL A, LANASET and POLAR ranges are suitable for dyeing. TECTILON

dyes are recommended for pale shades, ERIONYL A and POLAR for medium and deep shades.

LANASET dyes meet very high wet fastness requirements.

The most important criterion for dye selection is adequate solubility at room temperature. Good build up in

the shortest possible steaming time is a major factor too.



Pad liquor

x g/L TECTILON, ERIONYL, LANASET or POLAR dyes

3–20 g/L IRGAPADOL PN NEW

1 g/L INVADINE LUN

0.5 g/L FUMEXOL DF

y g/L acid

pH adjustment of the pad liquor

Pale shades (< 0.5%)

0.2–0.5 g/L citric acid pH 6

Medium shades (< 1.5%)


Deep shades (> 1.5%)


Black

3.0 g/L citric acid

3.0 ml/L acetic acid 80% pH 4

Steaming

The fixation of the dyes takes place during steaming. Steaming temperature and time are the key factors for

achieving sufficient build-up and fastness, but too high a steaming temperature can affect the handle.

The usual steaming conditions are 3–6 min. with superheated steam at 100–102°C/212–216°F, very deep

shades and black and navy need up to 8 min. at a temperature of 102–106°C/216–223°F.

Washing off and aftertreatment

Deep shades need efficient aftertreatment. Typical procedure:

● acid shock with 3 ml/L formic acid at 80°C/176°F

● hot rinse at 80°C/176°F with 2 g/L ERIOPON OS

● hot rinse at 80°C/176°F ● 30 g/L CIBAFIX PAS, pH 4.5 (acetic acid) at 70°C/158°F

● 30 g/L CIBAFIX PAS, pH 4.5 (acetic acid) at 70°C/158°F

● softening



Textile auxiliaries

Products Effects Benefits

Ciba® ALBEGAL® SET leveling of LANASET

dyes

amphoteric

— prevents dye agglomeration

— promotes migration and diffusion

— promotes on-tone build-up with dye combinations

Ciba® AVIVAN® SO

NEW

textile softener

nonionic/cationic

— gives fabrics a soft, smooth handle with a rich silky

touch

— allows production of fabrics with a high whiteness and

minimal shade change

— minimal effect on wet fastness and crocking fastness

— improves tear strength, bursting strength and abrasion

resistance

— reduces risk of needle damage to fabric and hole

formation during garment manufacture and use

CIBAFAST® AO fiber stabilizer, light

fastness improver

anionic

— reduces fiber degradation due to light and especially

heat

— improves light fastness of dyeings in pale and medium

shades

— suitable for all PA6 and PA66

— very good affinity for the fiber and good liquor stability

— metal-free

CIBAFIX® CL chlorine fastness

improver

anionic

— natural product to improve chlorine and wet fastness

(100% biodegradable)

— improves fastness properties of fiber and dyeing

— recommended for all kinds of swimwear fabric

— excellent build up and leveling power

— applicable over a wide pH range (pH 3–6)

— high exhaustion rate

CIBAFIX® ECO fixative

cationic

— for very deep shades to enhance wet fastness

— CIBAFIX ECO is applied on PA/EL after anionic fixation

with CIBAFIX PAS

CIBAFIX® PAS fixative

anionic

— maximum wet fastness improvement

— good dye bath stability in presence of acid

CIBAFLOW® CIR penetration accelerant

anionic

— instant penetration of dye liquor into the textile material

— especially recommended in circulating liquor dyeing

machines (beam, package)

— APEO- and solvent-free

CIBAFLOW® JET penetration, foam-

inhibiting, de-aerating

anionic

— faultless cloth run in jets, no stoppage, no damage to

goods (creases)

— durable antifoam effect

— APEO- and solvent-free

CIBAFLUID® C

CIBAFLUID® U

lubricating, reducing

friction

anionic/nonionic

— no formation of permanent creases during dyeing

— ropes open and displace more easily, therefore

improving levelness




Ciba® CLARITE® PS stabilized reduction

bleaching agent

anionic

— improves whiteness on polyamide and in combination

with a peroxide bleach gives a higher and more stable

white on wool, cellulosics and silk

— bleach baths containing CLARITE PS are active longer

than those containing a nonstabilized reduction agent

— high complexing power for heavy metals (e.g. iron)

and alkaline earth ions

— high cleaning action with booster effect on surfactants

— high stability in hard water

Ciba® FUMEXOL® DF foam controlling and

de-aerating agent

nonionic

— prevents and eliminates foam during textile processing

in aqueous media

— strong de-aerating effect and wetting power

— applicable in different processes, in highly alkaline to

acid liquors and at all temperatures

— stable to electrolytes and compatible with enzymes

— free of APEO, solvents and mineral oils

Ciba® HYDROPHOBOL®

XAN

extender

cationic

— optimizing the oil and water repellent effects

Ciba® IRGAPADOL® PN

NEW

padding agent

slightly anionic

— quick and even penetration

— good leveling, no frosting effect on structured material

Ciba® INVADINE® DA wetting agent and

detergent

anionic/nonionic

— low foaming

— for batchwise pretreatment and continuous immersion

processes

— good detergency with excellent emulsifying properties

— all-round applicability through high stability to bleaching

chemicals

— APEO-free

Ciba® INVADINE® LUN detergent, wetting and

de-aerating agent

weakly anionic

— outstanding wetting and de-aerating properties,

including in cold liquors

— enhanced rewetting power

— good detergency and dispersing action

— well suited for washing-off greasy, oily impurities and

pigment soil

Ciba® INVADINE® PBN special wetting agent

anionic

— excellent wetting effect for oil and water repellent

finishes

— avoids build up on rollers, particularly with paraffin

emulsions containing metal salt

— no influence on the water and oil repellent effect

Ciba® INVATEX® CS dispersing and

complexing agent

anionic

— prevents precipitations of metal hydroxides, carbonates

and silicates on goods and machinery

— crystallization-inhibiting properties (threshold-effect)

— enhances the effect of simultaneously applied

detergents and dispersants

— high stability to alkali, oxidation and hydrolysis




Ciba® MEGASOFT® JET-

LF

textile softener

nonionic/cationic

— gives fabrics a warm luxurious feel

— very high mechanical stability reduces processing

problems


resistance



— applicable with TEFLON finishes

Ciba® OLEOPHOBOL® S oil, water, stain

repellency

cationic

— excellent and durable protection against rain, stains,

dust and dirt

Ciba® OLEOPHOBOL®

7713

oil, water, stain

repellency

cationic

— good, long-lasting water and stain protection

— Laundry Air Dry properties (LAD)

— dust and dirt can easily be shaken or brushed off

Ciba® TINEGAL® W leveling, dye affinity

slightly cationic

— high leveling promoting properties

— especially helpful for shade weakening and correction

of unlevelness

Ciba® UNIVADINE® DP dispersant

anionic

— prevents filtration of dye dispersions in high density

muffs and packages

— improves rubbing fastness

— promotes leveling

— suitable for acid and alkaline conditions

Ciba® UNIVADINE® MC

NEW

leveling of LANASET

dyes

anionic/nonionic

— outstanding coverage of barriness

— improvement of migration of 1:2 metal complex dyes

Ciba® UNIVADINE® PA

NEW

leveling of acid dyes

anionic

— excellent coverage of barriness

— excellent leveling/migration

— no negative blocking or retarding behavior

Ciba® UNIVADINE® NT

NEW

leveling of acid dyes

anionic

— good coverage of barriness

— good leveling/migration behavior

Ciba® ULTRAVON® EL detergent and

dispersant, wetting

agent

anionic

— application in batchwise and underliquor pretreatments

— excellent washing and wetting power

— dispersing effect with crystallizationinhibiting

(threshold) effect

— good cleaning and degreasing properties

— all-round applicability through high stability to bleaching

chemicals

— low foaming, contains no antifoam

Ciba® ULTRATEX® UM

NEW

textile softener

nonionic/cationic

— gives fabrics a very specific soft, silicone-like and bulky

handle


resistance



— increases fabric resilience




Ciba® UVITEX® BHT liq.

115%

fluorescent whitening

agent

anionic stilbene

derivative

— neutral to blue white shade

— for cellulose, polyamide, wool and silk

— particularly recommended for exhaust application in

reduction bleaches

— very good wash fastness

Ciba® UVITEX® CF liq.

200%

fluorescent whitening

agent

anionic stilbene

derivative

— reddish white shade

— for cellulose, polyamide, wool and silk

— particularly recommended for exhaust application in

reduction bleaches

— very good wash fastness

Ciba® UVITEX® NFW liq. fluorescent whitening

agent

anionic distyryldiphenyl

derivative

— violet white shade

— for polyamide, wool, silk and cellulose

— suitable for exhaust and pad application

— very good stability to reducing agents and acids

— outstanding fastness properties

Ciba® UVITEX® PLF liq. fluorescent whitening

agent

anionic stilbene

derivative

— slightly reddish white shade for polyamide and cellulosic

fibers

— especially recommended when high light fastness is

required

— suitable for exhaust processes, has good leveling

properties

— highly appropriate for whitening of swimwear fabrics

Ciba® ZEROSTAT® AT

NEW

antistatic agent

anionic

— reduces fabric processing problems especially in fabric

cutting and sewing

— reduces static cling during display and wearing of

garments



Edition 2001/2002

Copyright © 2001 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc. All rights reserved.

All product names in capital letters are either registered or pending trademarks and property of Ciba Specialty Chemicals.

IMPORTANT: The following supersedes Buyer’s documents. SELLER MAKES NO REPRESENTATION OR WARRANTY,

EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR

PURPOSE. No statements herein are to be construed as inducements to infringe any relevant patent. Under

no circumstances shall Seller be liable for incidental, consequential or indirect damages for alleged negligence,

breach of warranty, strict liability, tort or contract arising in connection with the product(s). Buyer’s sole

remedy and Seller’s sole liability for any claims shall be Buyer’s purchase price. Data and results are based on

controlled or lab work and must be confirmed by Buyer by testing for the intended conditions of use. The

product(s) has (have) not been tested for, and is (are) therefore not recommended for, uses for which

prolonged contact with mucous membranes, abraded skin, or blood is intended; or for uses for which

implantation within the human body is intended.

Please note that products may differ from country to country. If you have any queries, kindly contact your local Ciba

Specialty Chemicals representative. Further information at website: http://www.cibasc.com

Ciba Specialty Chemicals is a member of:

(Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers)

641001e.doc — Dec-01, Printed in Switzerland.

Ciba® TECTILON® dyes


CH 2 : Dyes




Patterns and properties



Ciba® Tectilon® acid dyes

Yellow 2G 200% Lightfast, bright yellow for self shades. In combination with TECTILON Blue 6G for

brilliant green shades. C.I. Acid Yellow 169

Yellow 3R 200% Highly lightfast trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Red 2B and TECTILON

Blue 4R-01. C.I. Acid Yellow 246

Red 2B 200% Trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Yellow 3R and TECTILON Blue 4R-01.

C.I. Acid Red 361

Blue 4R-01 200% Trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Yellow 3R and TECTILON Red 2B.

Shade shift towards red in artificial light. C.I. Acid Blue 27

Blue 6G 200% For combination with TECTILON Yellow 2G for brilliant green shades, and with

TECTILON Yellow 3R for dull green shades. Shade shift towards green in artificial light.

C.I. Acid Blue 258

Yellow 4R 200% New trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Red 2B and TECTILON Blue 4R-

01. C.I. Acid Yellow 219

Blue G-01 200%

Blue 3R KWL

Blue GC-G C.I. Acid Blue 344

Tectilon

Yellow 2G 200%

Tectilon

Blue 4R-01 200%

0.06% 0.8% 0.09% 1.1%

Tectilon

Yellow 3R 200%

Tectilon

Blue 6G 200%

0.05% 0.6% 0.14% 1.7%

TECTILON

Red 2B 200%

0.055% 0.65%



Xenon lamp SD Solubility g/L Tectilon %

1/12 1/3 1/1 30°C 60°C 90°C

Artifi-cial light

TL 84 Build up

Mi- gration

Barri- ness

EL staining

Yellow 2G 200% 0.8 5–6 6 6–7 40 100 100 R Br 4 3–4 3–4 2–3

Yellow 3R 200% 0.6 6 6–7 7 100 100 100 R Br 4 3 3 1–2

Red 2B 200% 0.65 5–6 6 6–7 100 100 100 Y YBr 4 4 4 2

Blue 4R-01 200% 1.1 5 5–6 6 80 80 100 R R 4 4–5 4–5 1–2

Blue 6G 200% 1.7 6 6–7 7 10 10 15 G — 4 3 4–5 2–3

Washing

C06 B2, 50°C

Washing

C06 C2S, 60°C

Washing

AATCC 2A, 49°C Water

Tectilon %

Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO Ch PA CV

Yellow 2G 200% 0.8 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 3–4 4 5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 3 5

4–5 5 4–5 5 4–5 4 4 5 4–5 5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Yellow 3R 200% 0.6 4 4 4–5 5 3 3 3–4 5 3–4 4 4 5 3 5

4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 3–4 4 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Red 2B 200% 0.65 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 3 2–3 3 4–5 4 2–3 3 4–5 2–3 4–5

4–5 4 4–5 5 4 3 3–4 5 4–5 4 4 4–5 4–5 5

Blue 4R-01 200% 1.1 4 2–3 4 4 3 2–3 3 4–5 3–4 2–3 3 4–5 2–3 4–5

4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3–4 3 3–4 4–5 4 4 4 4–5 4–5 5

Blue 6G 200% 1.7 3–4 2–3 4 4–5 2–3 2–3 3 5 3 2–3 2–3 4–5 2–3 5

4–5 3–4 4–5 5 3 3 3–4 5 4 4 3–4 5 4 5

= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

Sea water Perspiration, alkaline Chlorinated water

mg/L available chlorine Rubbing

Tectilon %

Ch PA CV Ch PA CV 20 50 100 dry wet

Yellow 2G 200% 0.8 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 4 2–3 W 1–2 W 5 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 3 2 W 5 5

Yellow 3R 200% 0.6 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 3–4 2 W 1 W 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4 2–3 W 1–2 W 5 5

Red 2B 200% 0.65 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 3 W 1 W 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 3–4 BW 1–2 W 5 5

Blue 4R-01 200% 1.1 4–5 3 4 4–5 3 4 4 2–3 GW 1–2 GW 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4 4–5 4 2–3 GDe 1–2 GDe 5 5

Blue 6G 200% 1.7 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 2–3 GW 1–2 GW 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4 5 4 2–3 GW 1–2 GW 5 5




Dry cleaning

perchloreth. Dry heat

30s/180°C

Reservation staining

of multifiber strip Stripping

Tectilon %

Ch Ch PA CO PES PAN

Discharge-

ability partial % reduction oxidation

Yellow 2G 200% 0.8 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4 80

4–5 5 5

Yellow 3R 200% 0.6 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 65

5 5 5

Red 2B 200% 0.65 4–5 5 5 4 5 5 4–5 65 ◨ ◨ 4–5 5 5

Blue 4R-01 200% 1.1 4–5 5 5 4 5 5 2 70 G ◨ 4–5 5 5

Blue 6G 200% 1.7 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 2 60 G

4–5 5 5 = aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

Stripping: completely stripped ◨ partially stripped no effect

Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes

32/63






33/63


Yellow A-3G For self shades, and in combination with ERIONYL Blue A-4G and ERIONYL Turquoise A-

G for brilliant green shades with good light fastness. Causes “catalytic fading” with

ERIONYL Blue A-R. C.I. Acid Yellow 262

Yellow A-R Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Red A-2BF, ERIONYL Bordeaux A-5B

and ERIONYL Blue A-R. Good build up and balanced dyeing behavior. C.I. Acid Orange

67

Red A-3G For self shades and as a basis for deep red shades with adequate light and wet

fastness. C.I. Acid Red 447

Red A-2BF Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-R.

Neutral red with high light fastness. C.I. Acid Red 127 ?

Red A-3B On its own for bright, bluish red fashion shades. Light fastness in deep shades

adequate. C.I. Acid Red 131

Bordeaux A-5B Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-R.

For deep and dull fashion shades with high fastness. C.I. Acid Red 299

Violet A-B

(Lanaset Violet B)

On its own for highly lightfast violet shades. In combination with ERIONYL Red A-2BF,

ERIONYL Red A-3B and ERIONYL Blue A-R for the fashion violet sector. C.I. Acid Violet

109

Blue A-R Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R, ERIONYL Red A-2BF and

ERIONYL Bordeaux A-5B.

For bright royal blue self shades. Very good levelness, high wet fastness. C.I. Acid

Blue 260

Blue A-4G Greenish blue for green shades in combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-3G and ERIONYL

Green A-BG. To correct shade shift towards green in artificial light.

Turquoise A-G For self shades. Can be shaded with ERIONYL Yellow A-3G for brilliant green shades.

Fairly good build-up on different types of polyamide. To achieve good exhaustion,

dyeing at pH 4.5–5.5 is recommended and the use of ALBEGAL SET instead of

UNIVADINE PA/NT. Barriness largely covered under HT conditions.

Green A-BG Basis for dull green and olive shades with shading dyes ERIONYL Blue A-4G, ERIONYL

Yellow A-3G and ERIONYL Yellow A-R.

Navy A-R

(Navy R)

Neutral, cost-effective navy blue. Can be shaded with ERIONYL Violet A-B, ERIONYL

Blue A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-4G. Blue component for deep olive shades. C.I. Acid

Blue 113

Black M-R Black with high wet fastness. Shade shift in artificial light towards red can be corrected

with ERIONYL Yellow A-R or ERIONYL Blue A-4G. C.I. Acid Black 172

Black M-BN Deep, neutral black with very good build up on different types of polyamide. High light

fastness, wet fastness slightly lower than that of ERIONYL Black M-R. C.I. Acid Black

63:1


34/63

ERIONYL

Yellow A-3G

ERIONYL

Blue A-R

0.25% 0.75% 1.5% 0.32% 0.95% 1.9%

ERIONYL

Yellow A-R

ERIONYL

Blue A-4G

0.17% 0.5% 1.0% 0.33% 1.0% 2.0%

ERIONYL

Red A-3G

ERIONYL

Turquoise A-G

0.17% 0.5% 1.0% 0.13% 0.38% 0.75%

ERIONYL

Red A-2BF

ERIONYL

Green A-BG

0.23% 0.7% 1.4% 0.32% 0.95% 1.9%

ERIONYL

Red A-3B

ERIONYL Navy A-R

0.15% 0.45% 0.9% 0.65% 1.0% 2.0%

ERIONYL

Bordeaux A-5B

ERIONYL

Black M-R

0.1% 0.3% 0.6% 2.0% 3.0% 4.0%

ERIONYL

Violet A-B

ERIONYL

Black M-BN

0.25% 0.75% 1.5% 1.9% 2.9% 3.8%


35/63

Xenon lamp SD Solubility g/L ERIONYL A %

1/12 1/3 1/1 30°C 60°C 90°C

Artifi-cial light

TL 84 Build up

Mi- gration

Barri- ness

EL staining

Yellow A-3G 1.5 5–6 6 6–7 40 40 50 R RBr 5 2 3–4 3

Yellow A-R 1.0 5 5–6 6–7 20 25 100 R Br 5 2 4 1–2

Red A-3G 1.0 2–3 3 3–4 30 70 100 Y YBr 4 1 3 2G

Red A-2BF 1.4 4–5 5 5–6 80 100 100 Y Y 4 2 3–4 1–2

Red A-3B 0.9 2–3 3 3–4 5 15 70 Y Y 3–4 3 3–4 1–2

Bordeaux A-5B 0.6 4–5 4–5 5 15 15 80 Y BDe 5 3 3–4 1

Violet A-B 1.5 5 5 5–6 40 40 70 R Bl 3–4 2 2–3 3

Blue A-R 1.9 5–6 6 6–7 20 30 80 R R 4 3 3–4 2

Blue A-4G 2.0 5–6 6 6 30 30 80 G Br 4 2 4 2–3

Turquoise A-G 0.75 1–2 2G 3G 30 30 30 G G 2 1 2–3 1–2

Green A-BG 1.9 5–6 5–6 5–6 40 45 55 Y Y 4 2 2 2–3 B

Navy A-R N/L

1.0 —

N/L

4–5

N/Dk

5–6 100 100 100 R R 5 1 1 1–2

Black M-R B/Dk

4.0 —

B/L

6–7

B/Dk

7 60 60 80 R G 4 — — 2–3 R

Black M-BN B/Dk

3.8 —

B/L

7

B/Dk

7–8 30 30 70 R G 5 — — 3


36/63

Washing

C06 B2, 50°C

Washing

C06 C2S, 60°C

Washing


ERIONYL A %


Yellow A-3G 1.5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 5

5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Yellow A-R 1.0 4 3–4 4–5 4–5 3 2-3 4 4–5 4 3 3–4 4–5 4 4–5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5

Red A-3G 1.0 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5 4 5 5 4–5 5

Red A-2BF 1.4 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 3–4 2 3 4 4 2–3 3 4–5 3 5

5 4 5 5 4 3 3–4 4–5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 5

Red A-3B 0.9 4-5 4-5 5 4 4 4 4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 4–5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5

Bordeaux A-5B 0.6 4 3 4–5 3 4 2 3–4 3 4–5 2–3 4 5 4 5

4-5 4 5 4–5 4–5 2–3 4 3 5 3–4 4–5 5 5 5

Violet A-B 1.5 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 4–5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5

Blue A-R 1.9 4–5 2–3 4 4–5 4 2 2—3 4–5 4 2–3 3 4–5 3 5

5 4–5 5 5 4-5 3 3 5 4–5 4 4 4–5 4 5

Blue A-4G 2.0 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 4 2–3 2–3 4–5 4 3 3 4–5 2–3 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 3 5 4–5 4 4 4–5 4 5

Turquoise A-G 0.75 4-5 5 5 4-5 4–5 5 5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 5 5 5 5

Green A-BG 1.9 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 2–3 4 4 4–5 3 4 5 4 5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 5

Navy A-R 1.0 4–5 3 5 4 4 2 4–5 3 4–5 2–3 4–5 4–5 4 5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Black M-R 4.0 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 2 4 4 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3 5

5 4 5 5 4–5 2–3 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Black M-BN 3.8 4–5 2 4–5 4–5 4–5 2 4 4–5 4–5 2 4–5 5 4–5 5

4–5 3 5 5 4–5 2–3 4–5 5 4–5 2–3 4 5 5 5



37/63



ERIONYL A %


Yellow A-3G 1.5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 4–5 4–5 4 3–4 5 5

4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4 5 5

Yellow A-R 1.0 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4 4 3 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 5 5

Red A-3G 1.0 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4 4 4 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 4 5 5

Red A-2BF 1.4 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 3–4 3 2 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4 3 2 5 5

Red A-3B 0.9 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4 4 4 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5

Bordeaux A-5B 0.6 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 3 1–2 1 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 3 1-2 1 5 5

Violet A-B 1.5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 3–4 2–3 2 5 5

Blue A-R 1.9 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 4 3 1–2 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 2 5 5

Blue A-4G 2.0 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3 4–5 4 3 2 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 3 2 5 5

Turquoise A-G 0.75 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5

Green A-BG 1.9 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 2 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 4 3 2 5 5

Navy A-R 1.0 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5

4–5 5 5 5 5 5 3–4 2–3 1–2 4–5 5

Black M-R 4.0 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5

4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 5

Black M-BN 3.8 4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5



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Dry cleaning


30s/180°C



ERIONYL A %

Ch Ch PA CO PES PAN

Discharge-


Yellow A-3G 1.5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 30

4–5 5 5

Yellow A-R 1.0 4 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 50

4–5 4–5 5

Red A-3G 1.0 4 4–5 4–5 4 3 4–5 4–5 35 ◨Y

4–5 4–5 4–5

Red A-2BF 1.4 4 4–5 5 3–4 4–5 5 4–5 60 ◨Y

4 4–5 5

Red A-3B 0.9 4 5 5 2–3 5 5 4–5 65 Bn

4–5 4–5 5

Bordeaux A-5B 0.6 4–5 5 5 4 5 5 5 20 ◨

4–5 4–5 5

Violet A-B 1.5 4–5 5 5 3–4 3 5 2 15 G

4–5 4–5 5

Blue A-R 1.9 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 2 30 G

4–5 4–5 5

Blue A-4G 2.0 4–5 5 5 2–3 2–3 3 2 35 Bn

4–5 5 5

Turquoise A-G 0.75 4–5 5 5 2–3 5 5 2 10 ◨G

4–5 4–5 5

Green A-BG 1.9 4–5 5 5 3 3 3–4 2 30 Bn ◨

4–5 4–5 5

Navy A-R 1.0 4 4–5 5 3 5 5 2 30 ◨G ◨Bn

4–5 4–5 5

Black M-R 4.0 4–5 5 5 3 3–4 3–4 1–2 10 Bn ◨

4–5 5 5

Black M-BN 3.8 4–5 4–5 5 2–3 3–4 3–4 1 5 ◨Bn

4–5 5 5



Ciba® LANASET® dyes

39/63






40/63


Yellow 4GN Basis for bright yellow shades. In combination with LANASET Blue 5G for brilliant

green shades.

Yellow 2R For shading and combination with LANASET Red G and LANASET Gray G for dull

shades.

Orange RN Basis for brilliant orange shades with very good build up.

Brown G-01 Basis for medium beige and brown shades with good light fastness.

Brown B Basis for cost-effective dark brown shades with ultra high light fastness.

Red G Shading and combination dye for use with LANASET Yellow 2R and LANASET Gray G.

Red 2B For brilliant red self shades with high light and wet fastness.

Bordeaux B Basis for bordeaux shades. Limited suitability for pale shades on account of low light

fastness.

Violet B

(ERIONYL Violet

A-B)

Highly lightfast violet dye for self shades. Can be shaded with LANASET Red 2B and

LANASET Blue 2R. C.I. Acid Violet 109

Blue 2R

(POLAR Blue RLS

200%)

Bright blue self dye for royal blue shades. Can be shaded with LANASET Violet B and

LANASET Blue 5G. C.I. Acid Blue 225

Blue 5G Greenish blue. In combination with LANASET Yellow 4GN for brilliant green shades. To

correct shade shift towards green in artificial light. C.I. Acid Blue 239

Green B Basis for dull green and olive shades for combination with LANASET Blue 5G.

Gray G For shading and combination with LANASET Yellow 2R and LANASET Red G.

Navy R Cost-effective navy blue. Can be shaded with LANASET Blue 5G, LANASET Blue 2R and

LANASET Violet B.

Black B Neutral black with good build up. Also suitable for gray shades.

Blue 2RA

Yellow PA 125%

Red PA 200%

Blue PA

Blue PA2R 115%


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LANASET

Yellow 4GN

LANASET

Violet B

0.65% 1.3% 2.6% 0.85% 1.7% 3.4%

LANASET

Yellow 2R

LANASET

Blue 2R

0.75% 1.5% 3.0% 1.0% 2.0% 4.0%

LANASET

Orange RN

LANASET

Blue 5G

0.9% 1.8% 3.6% 1.1% 2.2% 4.4%

LANASET

Brown G-01

LANASET

Green B

0.7% 1.4% 2.8% 0.9% 1.8% 3.6%

LANASET

Brown B

LANASET

Gray G

0.6% 1.2% 2.4% 0.5% 1.0% 2.0%

LANASET

Red G

LANASET

Navy R

0.55% 1.1% 2.2% 1.5% 2.2% 4.4%

LANASET

Red 2B

LANASET

Black B

0.95% 1.9% 3.8% 2.0% 3.0% 4.0%

LANASET

Bordeaux B

0.48% 0.95% 1.9%


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Xenon lamp SD Solubility g/L LANASET %

1/12 1/3 1/1 30°C 60°C 90°C

Artifi-cial light

TL 84 Build up

Mi- gration

Barri- ness

EL staining

Yellow 4GN 1.3 5 6 6–7 100 100 100 R Br 4 2 4–5 2

Yellow 2R 1.5 4–5 5–6 6 100 100 100 R Br 5 2 3 3–4

Orange RN 1.8 4 5 5–6 65 80 80 Y RBr 4–5 2 3 2

Brown G-01 1.4 5 5–6 6 70 80 80 Y RBr 5 2 2 2

Brown B 1.2 5 6 6–7 100 100 100 R Y 5 1 2 2

Red G 1.1 4–5 5–6 6–7 100 100 100 Y Y 4–5 2 3 2

Red 2B 1.9 4 5 5–6 15 15 30 Y Y 4–5 2 4 3

Bordeaux B 0.95 3–4 5 5–6 20 40 100 Y Y 5 2 2–3 1–2

Violet B 1.7 3–4 4–5 5–6 60 60 100 R R 3–4 2 2–3 4

Blue 2R 2.0 4 5–6 6 100 100 100 R R 3–4 2 4 1

Blue 5G 2.2 4–5 5–6 6–7 100 100 100 G Gde 5 1–2 3–4 3

Green B 1.8 4 6 6–7 80 80 80 Y Y 3 2 4–5 2

Gray G 1.0 4–5 6 6–7 80 80 100 R Y 5 1 2–3 2

Navy R N/L

2.2 —

N/L

5–6

N/Dk

6 100 100 100 R R 4 2 3 2–3

Black B B/Dk

4.0 —

B/L

6–7

B/Dk

7 80 80 80 R G 4 — — 3


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Washing

C06 B2, 50°C

Washing

C06 C2S, 60°C

Washing


LANASET %


Yellow 4GN 1.3 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Yellow 2R 1.5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4 4–5 5 4 4 5 4–5 5

4–5 5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Orange RN 1.8 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5

4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5

Brown G-01 1.4 5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Brown B 1.2 4–5 4 5 4–5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5

5 4–5 5 5 4-5 4 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5

Red G 1.1 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 5 5 5

Red 2B 1.9 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 2 4 4 4–5 3 4 4–5 3–4 5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5

Bordeaux B 0.95 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5

Violet B 1.7 5 4 5 5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 3 4 5 4–5 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 5 4 4–5 5 4–5 5

Blue 2R 2.0 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 3 5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 5

Blue 5G 2.2 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 2–3 3–4 4 4–5 2–3 3 5 4 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 3 4 5 4–5 5

Green B 1.8 5 4–5 5 4–5 4 3–4 4 4 4–5 4 4 4–5 4 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5

Gray G 1.0 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5

Navy R 2.2 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 4 3 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 4 5 4–5 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5

Black B 4.0 4–5 2–3 4–5 4–5 4–5 1–2 4 4 5 2–3 4 5 3–4 5

5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 2 4 4–5 5 3 4–5 5 4 5



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LANASET %


Yellow 4GN 1.3 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 1–2 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 3–4 1–2 5 5

Yellow 2R 1.5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5

Orange RN 1.8 5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4 4 3–4 2–3 5 5

5 5 4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5

Brown G-01 1.4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 2–3 5 5

Brown B 1.2 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3–4 1–2 4–5 5

4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 3–4 2 5 5

Red G 1.1 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4 2–3 5 4–5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 4 2–3 5 5

Red 2B 1.9 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5

Bordeaux B 0.95 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 2 5 5

5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 2 5 5

Violet B 1.7 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4 3 1–2 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 4 3 2 5 5

Blue 2R 2.0 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4 3 1–2 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4 3 2 5 5

Blue 5G 2.2 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 2 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 3 2 5 5

Green B 1.8 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4 4 3 1–2 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 2–3 1–2 5 5

Gray G 1.0 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 5 5

4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4 3 5 5

Navy R 2.2 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 5 5

5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 3 5 5

Black B 4.0 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3–4 4–5 4–5

5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4 3–4 4–5 4–5



45/63

Dry cleaning


30s/180°C



LANASET %

Ch Ch PA CO PES PAN

Discharge-


Yellow 4GN 1.3 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 20

4–5 5 5

Yellow 2R 1.5 4–5 5 5 4 4–5 5 4 35 ◨ ◨

4–5 5 5

Orange RN 1.8 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 4 4–5 4 25 Bn ◨

4–5 4–5 5

Brown G-01 1.4 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4 30 V ◨

4–5 4–5 5

Brown B 1.2 4–5 4–5 5 4 4 4–5 3 30 V ◨

4–5 4–5 5

Red G 1.1 4–5 4–5 5 3 4 4–5 2–3 25 V ◨

4–5 5 5

Red 2B 1.9 4–5 5 5 3–4 4 4–5 3–4 30 Bn ◨

4–5 5 5

Bordeaux B 0.95 4–5 5 5 3–4 4 4–5 2 25 ◨

4–5 5 5

Violet B 1.7 4–5 5 5 3 2–3 4 2 20 G

4–5 5 5

Blue 2R 2.0 4–5 5 5 3–4 4–5 4–5 2 20 G

4–5 4–5 5

Blue 5G 2.2 4 5 5 3 3 3 2 25 Bn ◨

4–5 5 5

Green B 1.8 4–5 5 5 3–4 3 4–5 2 35 Bn ◨

4–5 5 5

Gray G 1.0 4–5 5 5 3–4 3–4 4–5 3–4 20 ◨ ◨

4–5 5 5

Navy R 2.2 4–5 5 5 3–4 4 4–5 3 30 V ◨

4–5 5 5

Black B 4.0 5 5 5 2–3 3–4 3–4 1–2 10 ◨

5 5 5




46/63






47/63


Orange GSN

150%

Very bright orange for self shades with moderate light fastness. Very high wet-

fastness properties.

Orange GRLS

200%

Highly lightfast bright orange for self shades. Very high wet-fastness properties, but

limited leveling.

Red B 125% Very brilliant, neutral red for self shades. Moderate light fastness. High wet-fastness

properties.

Red RLS 200% Highly lightfast brilliant, bluish red for self shades. Very high wet-fastness properties.

Red 10B 140% Brilliant, very bluish red for self shades with moderate light fastness. Very high wet-

fastness properties.

Yellow GN-01

400%

Yellow 5GN 280% C.I. Acid Yellow 110

Yellow 4G 160% C.I. Acid Yellow 79

Orange GRLS

200%

C.I. Acid Orange 94

Red 3BN 140%

Red BL

Blue 3RN

Blue G 350%

Blue 6B 350%

Blue RAWL 150%

Blue RLS 200% C.I. Acid Blue 225 (LANASET Blue 2R)

POLAR

Orange GSN

150%

POLAR

Red RLS 200%

0.2% 0.6% 1.2% 0.2% 0.6% 1.2%

POLAR

Orange GRLS

200%

POLAR

Red 10B 140%

0.25% 0.75% 1.5% 0.16% 0.48% 0.95%

POLAR

Red B 125%

0.24% 0.73% 1.45%


48/63

Xenon lamp SD Solubility g/L POLAR %

1/12 1/3 1/1 30°C 60°C 90°C

Artifi-cial light

TL 84 Build up

Mi- gration

Barri- ness

EL staining

Orange GSN 150% 1.2 3 3–4 4 100 100 100 F F 3 1 3–4 2

Orange GRLS 200% 1.5 4–5 5 6 70 90 100 G F 4 1 2–3 2–3

Red B 125% 1.45 2–3 3 3–4 30 70 80 G G 3 3 3–4 2–3

Red RLS 200% 1.2 4 4–5 5–6 40 70 80 G GF 4 1 2–3 2

Red 10B 140% 0.95 2–3 3 3–4 20 50 100 G G 4 1 3 2–3

Washing

C06 B2, 50°C

Washing

C06 C2S, 60°C

Washing


POLAR %


Orange GSN 150% 1.2 4–5 5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5

4–5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5

Orange GRLS 200% 1.5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5

4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5

Red B 125% 1.45 4 4–5 5 5 4 4 4 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 2–3 4

4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5

Red RLS 200% 1.5 4–5 4 5 4–5 4–5 2–3 4 4 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5 5

Red 10B 140% 0.95 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4 5

5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5




POLAR %


Orange GSN 150% 1.2 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4 4 3–4 D 2–3 D 5 5

5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 2–3 D 5 5

Orange GRLS 200% 1.5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 2–3 WD 1 WD 5 5

5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 2–3 WD 1–2 WD 5 5

Red B 125% 1.45 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4 4 4 5 5

5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 4 4 5 5

Red RLS 200% 1.5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 D 2 WD 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 D 2 WD 5 5

Red 10B 140% 0.95 5 4–5 4–5 5 4 4–5 4 4 3–4 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 4 4 4 5 5



49/63

Dry cleaning


30s/180°C



POLAR %

Ch Ch PA CO PES PAN

Discharge-


Orange GSN 150% 1.2 4 4–5 5 3–4 4 4–5 5 40

4–5 4–5 5

Orange GRLS 200% 1.5 4–5 5 5 3–4 3–4 4 5 25 ◨

4–5 4–5 5

Red B 125% 1.45 4–5 5 5 3 4 4–5 4–5 65 Br

4–5 5 5

Red RLS 200% 1.5 4–5 4–5 5 2–3 3 3–4 5 20 ◨ Br

4–5 4–5 5

Red 10B 140% 0.95 4–5 5 5 3 4 4 5 40 Br

4–5 4–5 5




50/63

Notes on the pattern section

Standard dyeings

TECTILON, ERIONYL A, LANASET and POLAR dyes were applied on polyamide/elastane tricot (80/20) at 2

or 3 different shade depths by the methods described, at 98°C/208°F, liquor ratio 20:1.

Fastness properties

Fastness properties were tested in accordance with SN-ISO 105 or international standards. Fastness

ratings refer to the material illustrated with and sometimes without aftertreatment. Where multifiber strip

is specified as adjacent fabric, such as in wash test C06 B2, adjacent fabric not mentioned in the table

attained rating 5 for staining.

Light fastness was tested at the given depths, wet fastness at 1/1 standard depth (SD) or as light navy

(N/L) and deep black (B/Dk). Standard depth 1/1 was determined colorimetrically in accordance with ISO

105-A06 (edition 1995, “Instrumental determination of standard depth 1/1”).

Results can differ, depending on fiber material, and for special requirements preliminary trials are

advisable.

Polyamide microfibers frequently have considerably lower fastness properties than conventional varieties.

Key to fastness tables

Ch = shade change Br = brighter

CO = staining of cotton De = deeper

CV = staining of viscose D = duller, flatter

PA = staining of polyamide 66 textured tricot W = weaker

PAN = staining of acrylics

PES = staining of polyester

WO = staining of wool

Bl = bluer BB = considerably bluer

Bn = browner

G = greener GG = considerably greener

R = redder RR = considerably redder

V = more violet

Y = yellower YY = considerably yellower

N/L = standard depth “light navy”

N/Dk = standard depth “dark navy”

B/L = standard depth “light black”

B/Dk = standard depth “dark black”


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Staining of elastane

EL = Elastane 0 = no staining of EL

PA = Polyamide 1 = poor dyeing of EL

2 = medium dyeing of EL

3 = tone-in-tone dyeing of EL

4 = heavy staining of EL (EL deeper than PA)

Bl = bluer

G = greener

R = redder

Y = yellower

Artificial light/Philips TL 84

Shade was assessed under a MacBeth lamp and a TL 84 tubular fluorescent lamp and compared with that

in daylight.

Dischargeability

Dischargeability was rated 1 to 5, rating 5 indicating “discharged to white” and rating 1 “no effect”.

Method:

thickening (Meyprogum NPS 8%, Meyhall) 550 g

cold water 275 g

Decrolin (BASF) 150 g

LYOPRINT APN 5 g

UVITEX NFW 1:2 20 g

1’000 g

- print

- dry

- fix (10 min air-excluded saturated steam)

- finish off

Build up

Exhaustion > 95%, referred to a dyeing without auxiliaries on polyamide/elastane tricot (80/20), 1h at

98°C/208°F, liquor ratio 20:1, at the following shade depths:

5 = very good (> 3/1 SD)

4 = good (> 2/1 SD)

3 = moderate ( 1/1 SD)

2 = poor (< 1/1 SD)


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Migration

Test method: treat dyed and non-dyed material (1/1 SD or pale navy) at a 1:1 ratio in a blank bath

without auxiliaries, 1h at 98°C/208°F, liquor ratio 20:1

5 = very good (40–50% dye migration)

4 = good (30–40% dye migration)

3 = moderate (20–30% dye migration)

2 = weak (10–20% dye migration)

1 = very weak (0–10% dye migration)

Barriness

This was tested on polyamide 66 test material without auxiliaries at shade depth 1/1 SD or pale navy.

5 = no barriness

4–5 = trace barry

4 = slightly barry

3–4 = noticeably barry

3 = considerably barry

2–3 = considerably to very barry

2 = highly barry

Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries

53/63

CH 3 : Auxiliaries

Ciba® ALBEGAL® SET leveling agent

● Leveling agent for the Ciba® LANASET® dyeing system on polyamide

● Affinity for the fiber and the dye

● Promotes migration, shade build up, leveling power and penetration

● Breaks down dye aggregations and speeds up dye diffusion

● Enhances bath exhaustion

● Low foaming

Migration/leveling on polyamide Breaking down dye aggregations

1% ALBEGAL SET without

without 1% ALBEGAL SET


54/63

CIBAFAST® AO anti oxidant for polyamide

● Reduces fiber degradation due to light and especially heat

● Improves light fastness of dyeings in pale and medium shades

● Suitable for all PA6 and PA66

● Very good affinity for the fiber and good liquor stability

● Metal-free

Fastness to molding on PA66 molded for 60s at 204°C/399°F

without product

2% CIBAFAST AO


55/63

CIBAFIX® CL chlorine fastness improver

● Natural product to improve chlorine and wet fastness (100% biodegradable)

● Improves fastness properties of fiber and dyeing

● Usable application for all kind of swimwear fabrics

● Excellent build up and leveling power

● Applicable over a large pH range (pH 3–6)

● High exhaustion rate

Fastness to chlorine on polyamide/Lycra 82:18

100 mg/L act. Cl (according to M&S C37)

1.4% Ciba® ERIONYL® Red A-2BF 1.9% Ciba® ERIONYL® Green A-BG

without 3% CIBAFIX CL without 3% CIBAFIX CL


56/63

CIBAFIX® PAS fixative for polyamide

● Improves wet fastness properties of dyeings and prints

● Much improved stability to concentrated acids — less danger of spotting in application

● Reserving agent for white ground in washing off prints

● High exhaustion rate

Aftertreatment method on PA66

1.8% Ciba® ERIONYL® Red 2B 154%

no auxiliary 1.0% 2.0%

Wash test 50°C/122°F

Water severe

Perspiration alkaline

Aftertreatment method on PA66

0.6% Ciba® TECTILON® Yellow 4R-01 200% / 1.2% Ciba® TECTILON® Blue 6G 200%

no auxiliary 1.0% 2.0%

Wash test 50°C/122°F

Water severe

Perspiration alkaline


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CIBAFIX® ECO fixative for cellulose

● Fixative for very deep shades to enhance wet fastness

● Applied on PA/EL after anionic fixation with CIBAFIX PAS

Combined aftertreatment method on polyamide/elastane

7% Ciba® ERIONYL® Black M-BN — wash test 50°C/122°F, M&S C4A

PA

without

aftertreatment

with 1.5% CIBAFIX

PAS, rinse and

2.0% CIBAFIX ECO


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CIBAFLOW® CIR penetration accelerant

● APEO- and solvent-free de-aerating agent with wetting and durable antifoam properties

● Instant penetration of goods, especially recommended for circulating liquor dyeing machines

● Adequate stability to shear forces

● Stable in acid and alkaline media

● Promotes constant liquor flow, hence inside-outside levelness and reduced risk of channeling

● Free from mineral oil and organic solvent

● Low odor

Wetting/deaerating/defoaming

water wetting

agent

penetration

accelerant

wetting

agent

defoaming

agent

penetration

accelerant


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CIBAFLOW® JET penetration accelerant

● APEO- and solvent-free product with strongly pronounced antifoaming action

● Specially recommended for jet and overflow machines and machines with short liquor or air stream

technology alternative

● Very stable to high alkali and electrolyte concentrations

● Highly stable to shear forces

● Free from mineral oil and organic solvent

● Low odor


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CIBAFLUID® C lubricant

● Reduces creasing in piece dyeing

● Markedly reduces textile-to-textile friction

● Prevents cracks and abrasion marks

● No adverse effect on the stability of the dyebath

● No retarding effect

Reduction of textile-to-textile friction


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Ciba® UNIVADINE® MC NEW leveling agent for polyamide

● Special designed for leveling 1:2 metal complex dyes e.g. Ciba® LANASET® dyes. Can also be used for

acid dyes

● Outstanding coverage of barriness and improvement of migration with 1:2 metal complex dyes

● Improves surface levelness on all polyamide qualities

● Adequate retarding action

● Very good wetting and precipitation inhibiting effect

Coverage of barriness/leveling


1%

UNIVADINE MC NEW

2%

UNIVADINE MC NEW

without leveler


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Ciba® UNIVADINE PA NEW leveling agent for acid dyes / Ciba® UNIVADINE

NT NEW leveling agent for acid dyes

● Highly efficient HT-stable leveling agents with reproducible results

● UNIVADINE PA NEW helps to achieve highest standards of levelness with balanced migration and

coverage of barriness. Has no negative retarding and blocking effect

● UNIVADINE NT NEW promotes customary standards of levelness with very good coverage of barriness

and migration

Covering of barriness/leveling


without

2% UNIVADINE PA NEW

2% UNIVADINE NT NEW

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CH 4 : Miscellaneous

2006-13 - Tectilon - Erionyl - Lanaset - Polar

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Transcript of 2006-13 - Tectilon - Erionyl - Lanaset - Polar