200 Indian Wines - Olivier Leflaive · SommelierINDIA Volume 9 Issue 3, June-July, 2014 GOING,...
Transcript of 200 Indian Wines - Olivier Leflaive · SommelierINDIA Volume 9 Issue 3, June-July, 2014 GOING,...
Volume 9 Issue 3, June-July, 2014Sommelier INDIA
GOING, GOING, GONE page 58
Auction Napa Valley
CHIANTI CLASSICO page 46
Tuscan Treasure
CHARDONNAY page 52
Golden Grape
SAUVIGNON BLANC page 38
New Zealand’s Sweetheart
KRSMA & CHAROSA page 20
Indian Wines
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Special interest wine magazine for restricted circulation
For Indians around the world who enjoy the good life
`200
2
INDIA
Ed
ito
r’s
No
te
Is w
ine
cu
ltu
re in
In
dia
on
th
e d
ecl
ine
?
Th
e cu
rry
sho
ps
of
So
uth
all
in L
on
do
n a
re a
th
ing
of
the
pas
t an
d I
nd
ian
fin
e d
inin
g d
oes
n’t
sto
p a
t C
hic
ken
Tik
ka
Mas
ala
(oft
en d
escr
ibed
as
En
glan
d’s
nat
ion
al d
ish
). W
hat
’s e
ven
mo
re e
nco
ura
gin
g is
th
at I
nd
ian
foo
d is
now
bei
ng
pai
red
mo
re o
ffen
wit
h w
ine
than
wit
h b
eer
– t
he
on
ly b
ever
age
con
sid
ered
acc
epta
ble
wit
h i
t in
th
e p
ast.
We
nee
d t
o o
pen
up
ou
r m
ind
s an
d b
e
adve
ntu
rou
s. M
y ow
n c
uli
nar
y o
dys
sey
wit
h C
hât
eau
Mar
gau
x w
ines
at
a d
inn
er
in D
elh
i re
cen
tly
was
glo
rio
us
pro
of.
Page
74
.
How
do
es I
nd
ia r
ate
as a
win
e d
rin
kin
g cu
ltu
re?
Po
orl
y, I
’m a
frai
d.
Tru
e,
win
e d
rin
ker
s ar
e ea
ger
to lea
rn a
nd
en
larg
e th
eir
exp
erie
nce
. A
lso
tru
e th
at t
her
e
has
bee
n g
row
th i
n t
he
awar
enes
s an
d a
pp
reci
atio
n o
f w
ine
fro
m a
lev
el w
her
e it
was
alm
ost
no
n-e
xist
ent.
Bu
t th
e ea
rly
pac
e o
f p
rogr
ess
has
fal
tere
d. T
he
reas
on
–
and
yo
ur
gues
s is
rig
ht
– i
s o
ur
tan
gle
of
red
tap
e an
d c
on
trad
icto
ry r
egu
lati
on
s.
Wh
y is
im
po
rted
win
e –
eve
n t
he
affo
rdab
le s
up
erm
arket
var
iety
– s
o
exp
ensi
ve i
n I
nd
ia?
An
d w
hy
is t
her
e so
lit
tle
cho
ice?
Wh
y is
n’t
it
mo
re w
idel
y
and
eas
ily
avai
lab
le?
Th
e re
aso
ns,
dea
r re
ader
, ca
n a
ll b
e tr
aced
bac
k t
o m
ind
less
,
ann
oyi
ng,
tim
e-co
nsu
min
g, o
bst
ruct
ive
po
lici
es.
I’ve
had
to
o m
any
con
vers
atio
ns
wit
h I
nd
ian
win
e im
po
rter
s to
kn
ow
th
at t
his
is
a fa
ct. T
her
e is
lit
tle
ince
nti
ve f
or
them
to
im
po
rt m
ore
an
d b
ette
r q
ual
ity
win
es. E
ven
now
th
ey a
re b
attl
ing
agai
nst
new
lab
el r
egis
trat
ion
req
uir
emen
ts w
hil
e th
eir
con
sign
men
ts lan
guis
h in
bo
nd
ed
war
eho
use
s.
Th
e re
tail
co
st o
f an
im
po
rted
win
e go
es u
p b
y m
ore
th
an e
igh
t ti
mes
fro
m
its
FO
B p
rice
. Wh
y is
it
so m
uch
? It
’s a
go
od
qu
esti
on
. Co
nsi
der
th
e fa
cts:
th
e ad
d-
on
s ar
e C
ust
om
s D
uti
es,
C&
F c
har
ges,
Sto
rage
co
sts
in-b
on
d,
Sta
te d
uti
es,
and
then
, to
to
p it
all, t
he
bel
eagu
red
win
e im
po
rter
has
tra
de
mar
gin
s an
d m
arket
ing
exp
ense
s to
co
nte
nd
wit
h, am
ou
nti
ng
to a
rou
nd
40
%.
Now
th
at w
e h
ave
a n
ew g
ove
rnm
ent
in p
lace
wit
h a
n a
bso
lute
maj
ori
ty,
wil
l th
e el
ecti
on
pro
mis
e o
f b
ette
r d
ays
ahea
d (
Ab
ach
he
din
aa rahe
hain
) ex
ten
d t
o
the
hap
less
win
e co
nsu
mer
an
d w
ine
ind
ust
ry i
n g
ener
al?
Let
’s h
op
e so
.
Th
e C
hin
ese
win
e in
du
stry
, af
ter
a p
erio
d o
f ra
pid
gr
ow
th,
is fa
cin
g
pro
ble
ms
of
its
ow
n w
ith
win
e sa
les
fall
ing
shar
ply
. (C
hin
a se
lls
ove
r 3
5,0
00
,00
0
case
s o
f im
po
rted
w
ines
an
nu
ally
, co
mp
ared
to
o
ur
30
0,0
00
ca
ses)
. T
hei
rs
is a
pro
ble
m o
f ex
cess
an
d h
igh
sp
end
ing
wh
ich
has
res
ult
ed i
n a
gove
rnm
ent
crac
kd
ow
n. R
ead
Jan
cis
Ro
bin
son
’s a
rtic
le f
or
mo
re o
n t
his
on
page
12
.
Ind
ian
w
ines
h
ave
bee
n o
n a
roll
er co
aste
r ri
de
for
som
e ti
me
wit
h
flu
ctu
atin
g fo
rtu
nes
. T
wo
p
rod
uce
rs,
KR
SM
A an
d C
har
osa
, th
at sh
ow
gr
eat
pro
mis
e ap
pea
r o
n o
ur
cove
r. A
lth
ou
gh n
eith
er a
re a
vail
able
in
Del
hi
yet,
rea
d
the
acco
un
t by
Alo
k C
han
dra
an
d B
rin
da
Gil
l, r
esp
ecti
vely
, o
n p
age
s 2
0 a
nd
24
.
ww
w.f
aceb
ook.c
om
/so
mm
elie
rin
dia
ww
w.t
wit
ter.
com
/so
mm
elie
rin
dia
E-m
ail: r
ks@
india
nw
inem
aga
zine.
com
Sommelier IN
DIA
3
Poet
ry i
n a
bott
leI
read
you
r m
agaz
ine
and
lear
nt
man
y in
tere
stin
g
thin
gs,
and I
gat
her
th
at
if
you
ru
n
a m
agaz
ine
such
as
Som
mel
ier
India
,
so
full
of
info
rmat
ion
,
it
mea
ns
that
peo
ple
are
inte
rest
ed
in
win
e,
its
ritu
al,
and t
he
hu
ge
poet
ry b
ehin
d a
bott
le.
Eri
c A
sim
ov
wri
tes
that
the
you
ng
gen
erat
ion
is
con
sum
ing
less
win
e bec
ause
th
ere
are
man
y at
trac
tive
arti
san
al b
eers
on
th
e
mar
ket.
Bu
t yo
u’ll
agre
e w
ith
m
e th
at
even
if
som
e of
thes
e bee
rs c
an b
e go
od a
nd v
ery
dri
nkab
le,
ther
e is
not
the
sam
e am
ou
nt
of
work
beh
ind i
t as
ther
e is
in m
akin
g a
bott
le o
f w
ine.
Th
e vi
ne’
s se
ason
, th
e te
rroir
wh
ere
it g
row
s, th
e ca
pac
ity
and k
now
-how
of th
e vi
gner
on
, an
d
oth
er f
asci
nat
ing
fact
ors
th
at d
ress
a b
ott
le o
f w
ine
can
not
be
com
par
ed w
ith
a b
ott
le o
f bee
r.
— L
aura
di
Coll
ob
ian
o, vi
a em
ail.
ww
w.v
algi
ano.it
Die
har
d f
anI
am a
die
har
d f
an o
f yo
ur
super
b m
agaz
ine
and w
ou
ld love
to
wri
te a
n a
rtic
le. SI
enco
ura
ged m
e to
cle
ar W
SE
T L
evel
s 1 a
nd
2. I
als
o jo
ined
an
inte
rest
ing
Fin
e W
ine
Gro
up, a
bou
t w
hic
h a
n
arti
cle
was
wri
tten
in
SI,
an
d I
love
d t
he
pie
ce o
n F
icofi
.
— P
arag
Tri
pat
hi,
New
Del
hi
Sw
iss
Sec
rets
Th
e w
ine
and tr
avel
sto
ry a
bou
t Sw
itze
rlan
d w
as v
ery
inte
rest
ing.
I h
ad n
o idea
Sw
itze
rlan
d m
ade
such
good w
ines
. W
e kn
ow
all
abou
t Sw
itze
rlan
d a
s th
e bea
uti
ful l
oca
le o
f man
y In
dia
n m
ovi
es.
Sw
iss
choco
late
s, S
wis
s w
atch
es a
nd, of
cou
rse,
Sw
iss
ban
ks a
re
som
eth
ing
on
e oft
en rea
ds ab
ou
t. S
wis
s ch
eese
, mu
esli, r
ost
i an
d
fon
du
e ar
e fo
ods
I as
soci
ate
wit
h S
wit
zerl
and,
bu
t I
nev
er e
ver
thou
ght
of
win
e! T
he
nex
t ti
me
I’m
in
Sw
itze
rlan
d, I’
ll m
ake
a
poin
t of ta
stin
g Sw
iss
win
e.
— V
Gop
inat
h, vi
a em
ail
Switze
rlan
d’s
win
e pr
oduct
ion i
s sm
all,
even
for
its
ow
n n
eeds
. It
is
in
the
top
10 c
ountr
ies
of t
he w
orld
for
per
cap
ita
win
e co
nsu
mpt
ion b
ut
has on
ly 1
5,0
00 h
a unde
r vi
ne.
Ver
y lit
tle
Swiss w
ine
is e
xpor
ted
and
it
is e
xpen
sive
due
to the
hig
h co
st o
f la
nd
and
labo
ur.
Ed.
Re
ad
ers
Wri
te
Fre
nch
n
ati
on
al,
Ro
ma
in
Bo
nn
au
d
dis
cov
ere
d
the
Ind
ian
w
ine
m
ark
et
as
a
con
sult
an
t w
hile
liv
ing
in
De
lhi.
A
me
mb
er
of
the
So
mm
eli
er
Ind
ia
Tast
ing
Pa
ne
l fr
om
20
10
to
20
12
,
he
is
a s
pe
cia
list
in F
ren
ch w
ine
s a
nd
pa
rtic
ula
rly
fon
d o
f th
e w
ine
-pro
du
cin
g r
eg
ion
s o
f B
urg
un
dy
an
d
Ch
am
pa
gn
e.
On
e
tim
e
sale
s a
nd
m
ark
eti
ng
ma
na
ge
r fo
r a
fa
mo
us
win
e m
erc
ha
nt
in F
ran
ce,
he
no
w li
ve
s in
Pro
ve
nce
, wh
ere
he
is in
ch
arg
e o
f w
ine
for
a p
rom
ine
nt
ba
nk
an
d h
ea
ds
a r
eg
ion
al
win
e
soci
ety
. B
on
na
ud
wri
tes
ab
ou
t th
e g
old
en
gra
pe
–
Ch
ard
on
na
y in
th
is is
sue
.
Rom
ain
Bonn
aud
Co
ntr
ibu
tors
Mir
a
Ad
va
ni
Ho
ne
ycu
tt
is
a
Los
An
ge
les
ba
sed
jou
rna
list
an
d
au
tho
r o
f
“Ca
lifo
rnia
’s
Ce
ntr
al
Co
ast
,
Th
e U
ltim
ate
Win
ery
Gu
ide
: Fr
om
Sa
nta
Ba
rba
ra t
o
Pa
so R
ob
les”
. S
he
ha
s ch
ron
icle
d t
he
ne
w a
nd
old
wo
rld
of
win
e a
pa
rt f
rom
wri
tin
g o
n i
nte
rna
tio
na
l
cin
em
a.
He
r w
ork
ha
s a
pp
ea
red
in
Ha
rpe
r’s
Ba
zaa
r
(In
dia
), t
he
Asi
an
Wa
ll S
tre
et
Jou
rna
l, Lo
s A
ng
ele
s
Tim
es
an
d
Ho
ng
K
on
g’s
B
acc
ara
t a
nd
Ta
tle
r
ma
ga
zin
es
am
on
gst
oth
er
pu
blic
ati
on
s. H
ere
, sh
e
reca
ps
last
ye
ar’
s N
ap
a W
ine
Au
ctio
n a
nd
re
po
rts
on
wh
at’
s u
pco
min
g in
20
14
.
Mir
a Ad
vani
Ho
neyc
utt
Go
vin
d
Dh
ar
is
ba
sed
in
Ne
w
De
lhi
an
d
is
the
fo
rme
r e
xecu
tiv
e
ed
ito
r o
f R
ob
b
Re
po
rt
Ind
ia.
For
the
pa
st t
en
yea
rs, h
e h
as
wri
tte
n o
n
tra
ve
l, lu
xury
a
nd
th
e
art
s fo
r le
ad
ing
In
dia
n
an
d i
nte
rna
tio
na
l p
ub
lica
tio
ns.
Th
is t
ime
he
vis
its
Le C
los,
th
e l
uxu
ry w
ine
an
d s
pir
its
sto
re a
t D
ub
ai
Inte
rna
tio
na
l Air
po
rt t
o g
ive
us
a f
ull
acc
ou
nt.
Govi
nd D
har
52
Som
melier IN
DIA
WIN
ES o
f Fra
nce
– Bu
rgun
dy
Cha
rdon
nay,
�e
gold
en
gra
pe o
f Bur
gund
y
Fro
m M
eu
rsa
ult
to
Ch
ass
ag
ne
th
rou
gh
Pu
lign
y-M
on
tra
che
t, S
I Fr
en
ch c
orr
esp
on
de
nt,
Ro
ma
in B
on
na
ud
un
veils
th
e s
ecr
ets
of
an
intr
ica
te p
atc
hw
ork
of
terr
oir
s in
Bu
rgu
nd
y a
nd
inv
ite
s u
s to
d
isco
ve
r th
is n
arr
ow
str
ip o
f la
nd
th
at
pro
du
ces
wo
rld
-fa
mo
us
wh
ite
win
es
ren
ow
ne
d f
or
the
ir b
ala
nce
an
d d
elic
acy
Sommelier IN
DIA
53
Bu
rgu
nd
y is
a w
ine-
pro
du
cin
g re
gion
loca
ted
in
eas
t-
cen
tral
Fra
nce
. Love
rs o
f gr
eat
Ch
ard
on
nay
usu
ally
spea
k i
ts n
ame
wit
h r
ever
ence
bec
ause
th
e w
hit
e
win
es g
row
n i
n t
he
Côte
des
Bla
ncs
are
som
e of
the
fin
est ex
amp
les
of d
ry C
har
don
nay
pro
du
ced
in th
e w
orl
d.
A B
LE
ND
OF
CH
AR
DO
NN
AY
GR
AP
ES
AN
D C
OM
PL
EX
TE
RR
OIR
S
Sou
th o
f B
eau
ne,
wit
hin
th
e C
ôte
de
Bea
un
e, o
nce
pas
t th
e
char
min
g vi
llag
es o
f Pom
mar
d a
nd
Voln
ay fam
ou
s fo
r th
eir
red
win
es f
rom
Pin
ot
Noir
gra
pes
, w
e en
ter
the
Côte
des
Bla
ncs
.
Wh
ile
it d
oes
not
corr
esp
on
d t
o a
n o
ffic
ial
app
ella
tion
, it
per
fect
ly
des
crib
es
the
geolo
gica
l re
alit
y of
the
terr
oir
s of
Meu
rsau
lt,
Pu
lign
y-M
on
trac
het
an
d C
has
sagn
e-M
on
trac
het
,
all
par
ticu
larl
y w
ell
suit
ed t
o t
he
Ch
ard
on
nay
gra
pe
by
virt
ue
of
thei
r m
arl, l
imes
ton
e an
d g
rave
l so
ils.
Man
y of
the
worl
d’s
most
re
now
ned
(a
nd
ex
pan
sive
) w
hit
e w
ines
co
me
from
this
lit
tle
area
fac
ing
the
risi
ng
sun
. T
hey
are
con
sid
ered
a
ben
chm
ark f
or
win
emak
ers
ever
ywh
ere.
As
is w
ell
kn
ow
n,
in B
urg
un
dy,
th
e w
ine
regi
on
is
very
split
up
an
d c
om
pri
ses
nu
mer
ou
s p
lots
of
lan
d,
wh
ich
oft
en
corr
esp
on
d t
o a
sp
ecif
ic s
oil,
wit
h i
ts o
wn
dis
tin
ctiv
e ty
pe
of
grou
nd
, sl
op
e an
d e
xposu
re.
Th
anks
to t
hei
r ex
cepti
on
al
Cha
rdon
nay,
�e
gold
en
gra
pe o
f Bur
gund
y
Th
e v
illa
ge
of
Me
urs
au
lt w
ith
ro
ws
of
vin
es
in t
he
fo
reg
rou
nd
54
Som
melier IN
DIA
qu
alit
y of
terr
oir
, so
me
clim
ats
(sp
ecif
ic p
arce
ls o
f vi
ney
ard
in
Bu
rgu
nd
y) a
re c
lass
ifie
d a
s P
rem
iers
Cru
s or
Gra
nd
s C
rus.
Th
e C
ôte
des
Bla
ncs
off
ers
a bro
ad-r
angi
ng
spec
tru
m o
f
soils
and
wea
ther
pat
tern
s th
at g
ive
a st
rikin
g co
mp
lexi
ty t
o
the
wh
ite
win
es f
rom
Ch
ard
on
nay
gra
pes
. A
nd
th
e h
um
an
inte
rven
tion
, w
ith
re
stri
cted
yi
eld
s,
enh
ance
s th
is
grea
t
pote
nti
al.
Aft
er t
he
Ch
ard
on
nay
gra
pes
are
har
vest
ed,
a go
od
per
cen
tage
of th
e w
ines
are
fer
men
ted
in
sm
all o
ak b
arre
ls a
nd
also
age
d i
n o
ak b
arre
ls.
Man
aged
pre
cise
ly,
the
wood
ad
ds
com
ple
xity
, d
epth
, bod
y, f
lavo
ur
and
lon
gevi
ty t
o t
he
win
es.
Th
e vi
llag
es
of
Pu
lign
y-M
on
trac
het
an
d
Ch
assa
gne-
Mon
trac
het
hold
th
e d
isti
nct
ion
of
poss
essi
ng
no f
ewer
th
an
five
wh
ite
Gra
nd
s C
rus,
at
on
ce i
nte
nse
, h
arm
on
iou
s an
d
ble
ssed
wit
h a
wh
olly
rem
arkab
le d
isti
nct
ion
. O
ne
of
them
,
the
“Mon
trac
het
”, is
con
sid
ered
by
man
y w
ine
love
rs t
o b
e th
e
grea
test
wh
ite
win
e in
th
e w
orl
d. T
he
Fre
nch
wri
ter
Ale
xan
dre
Du
mas
rec
om
men
ded
th
at i
t sh
ou
ld b
e d
run
k “
on
ben
ded
kn
ee a
nd
bar
e-h
ead
ed”!
ME
UR
SA
UL
T
EM
BL
EM
OF
GR
EA
T W
HIT
E B
UR
GU
ND
Y W
INE
S
Th
e vi
llag
e of
Meu
rsau
lt i
s an
att
ract
ive
pla
ce i
n t
he
hea
rt o
f
the
Bu
rgu
nd
y w
ine
regi
on
an
d a
par
adis
e fo
r st
un
nin
g w
hit
e
win
es fro
m C
har
don
nay
! Th
e C
hât
eau
de
Meu
rsau
lt, a
n e
lega
nt
wh
ite
ston
e bu
ild
ing,
ow
ns
60 h
ecta
res
of
vin
es a
nd
on
e of
the
big
gest
cel
lars
in
th
e re
gion
. M
eurs
ault
, th
anks
to its
worl
dw
ide
repu
tati
on
, is
a t
rue
sym
bol
of
the
wh
ite
win
es o
f B
urg
un
dy.
It
off
ers
Pre
mie
rs C
rus
(“L
es P
erri
ères
”, “
Les
Ch
arm
es”
and
“L
es
Gen
evri
ères
” ar
e th
e m
ost
fam
ou
s) b
ut
no G
ran
d C
ru.
Th
e so
ils
show
a h
igh
pro
port
ion
of
mar
l an
d c
lay,
wh
ich
imp
art
fat
and
op
ule
nce
to t
he
win
es.
A v
ery
hea
dy
bou
qu
et
of
haz
eln
uts
, al
mon
ds,
cru
st o
f bre
ad,
and
som
etim
es b
utt
er
or
hon
eysu
ckle
, oft
en c
har
acte
rise
s M
eurs
ault
win
es. T
hey
are
full, ro
un
d, p
ow
erfu
l an
d a
ge v
ery
wel
l.
Aft
er
a w
on
der
ful
tast
ing
at
the
Dom
ain
e M
atro
t d
o
not
mis
s th
e fa
mou
s “P
aulé
e d
e M
eurs
ault
”, a
cel
ebra
tion
ban
qu
et a
t th
e en
d o
f th
e h
arve
st,
hel
d o
n t
he
thir
d M
on
day
of
Nove
mber
: a
mu
st-a
tten
d for
win
e lo
vers
to w
hic
h e
very
on
e
bri
ngs
som
e gr
eat
bott
les
to t
aste
an
d s
har
e.
PU
LIG
NY
-MO
NT
RA
CH
ET
WH
ER
E C
HA
RD
ON
NA
Y R
EIG
NS
SU
PR
EM
E
Pu
lign
y w
as o
ne
of
two v
illa
ges
(th
e oth
er i
s C
has
sagn
e) t
hat
gain
ed p
erm
issi
on
in
187
9 t
o h
yph
enat
e th
e n
ame
of
its
most
fam
ou
s vi
ney
ard
, M
on
trac
het
, to
its
ow
n.
Nes
tled
bet
wee
n C
has
sagn
e-M
on
trac
het
an
d M
eurs
ault
,
the
vill
age
of
Pu
lign
y-M
on
trac
het
p
rod
uce
s se
du
ctiv
e an
d
aro
mat
ic w
hit
e w
ines
, o
ffer
ing
a fl
ora
l el
egan
ce a
lon
gsid
e a
styl
ish
, st
eely
co
nce
ntr
atio
n.
Th
ey h
ave
mo
re m
iner
alit
y in
thei
r ea
rly
year
s in
co
mp
aris
on
to
th
eir
illu
stri
ou
s n
eigh
bo
urs
.
Exu
din
g n
ote
s of
alm
on
d p
aste
, w
hit
e fl
ow
ers
and
exo
tic
Do
ma
ine
Ma
tro
t w
ine
bo
ttle
s w
ith
scr
ew
cap
clo
sure
s
Ha
rve
stin
g g
rap
es
in t
he
vin
ey
ard
s o
f D
om
ain
e
Oli
vie
r L
e!
aiv
e. B
elo
w:
Mo
ntr
ach
et
Gra
nd
Cru
Photo courtesy: Serge Chapuis
Sommelier IN
DIA
55
fru
its,
th
eir
acid
ity
stea
dily
dec
lin
es o
ver
tim
e, r
esu
ltin
g in
a
kin
d o
f m
ello
wn
ess
wit
h a
n i
mp
ress
ive
pow
er.
Th
e P
rem
iers
Cru
s “L
es C
om
bet
tes”
, “L
e C
ailler
et”
or
“Les
Pu
celles
” bel
on
g
amon
g th
e ar
isto
crac
y of
Pu
lign
y-M
on
trac
het
.
CHASSAGNE-M
ONTRACHET
TH
E M
OS
T S
OU
TH
ER
LY
OF
TH
RE
E G
RE
AT
VIL
LA
GE
S
At
the
sou
ther
n e
nd
of
the
Côte
des
Bla
ncs
, th
e C
has
sagn
e-
Mon
trac
het
win
es a
re o
ften
des
crib
ed a
s p
osi
tion
ed som
ewh
ere
bet
wee
n t
hose
of
Pu
lign
y-M
on
trac
het
an
d M
eurs
ault
: le
ss f
ine
than
Pu
lign
y, le
ss r
ich
th
an M
eurs
ault
bu
t co
nta
inin
g el
emen
ts
of
both
. Fac
ing
east
an
d s
ou
thea
st, th
ese
wh
ite
win
es’ so
ils
are
mai
nly
com
pose
d o
f bro
wn
cla
y an
d lim
esto
ne.
Wit
h n
ote
s of
rip
e ap
ple
, ac
acia
, h
on
ey a
nd
haz
eln
ut,
th
ey d
evel
op
vig
oro
us
inte
nsi
ty a
llie
d t
o t
rem
end
ou
s el
egan
ce.
Fu
ll-b
od
ied
, th
ey a
re
lon
g on
th
e p
alat
e. T
he
bes
t w
hit
e P
rem
ier
Cru
vin
eyar
ds
incl
ud
e “C
ailler
ets”
, “R
uch
ott
es”,
an
d “
La
Bou
dri
ott
e”.
SO
ME
OU
TS
TA
ND
ING
WIN
ES
Her
e ar
e tw
o d
om
ain
s th
at p
rod
uce
gre
at w
hit
e w
ines
fro
m th
e
Côte
des
Bla
ncs
th
at I
sin
gled
ou
t d
uri
ng
my
rece
nt
tast
ings
:
Dom
ain
e M
atr
ot
Th
ierr
y M
atro
t pro
du
ces
a w
ide
ran
ge o
f
wh
ite
Bu
rgu
nd
y w
ines
. H
is g
oal
is
the
sam
e fo
r al
l of
his
win
es:
an h
on
est
expre
ssio
n o
f both
ter
roir
an
d v
inta
ge.
He
abh
ors
extr
emes
, bel
ievi
ng
that
im
bal
ance
s in
w
ines
h
ave
a kn
ock
-
on
eff
ect
wh
en a
ccom
pan
yin
g fo
od
. A
noth
er p
et h
ate
is o
ver-
mat
uri
ty i
n t
he
grap
es,
like
wis
e ex
cess
ive
use
of
oak
. T
aut
and
refi
ned
wh
en y
ou
ng,
his
win
es a
ge b
eau
tifu
lly.
A m
ust
for
win
e
love
rs! w
ww
.matr
ot.c
om
Dom
ain
e
Oli
vie
r
Lefl
aiv
e
Olivi
er
Lef
laiv
e is
on
e of
Bu
rgu
nd
y’s
most
re
spec
ted
w
ine
pro
du
cers
, off
erin
g w
ines
of
exce
pti
on
al
qu
alit
y,
con
sist
ency
an
d
styl
e fr
om
vi
llag
e
app
ella
tion
s an
d
cru
vi
ney
ard
s ac
ross
th
e le
gen
dar
y C
ôte
de
Bea
un
e. T
he
hal
lmar
k st
yle
of
Olivi
er L
efla
ive
is ea
se,
acce
ssib
ilit
y an
d c
har
m.
All t
he
ind
ivid
ual
win
es,
from
ver
y
vari
ed s
oils
and
asp
ects
, re
veal
mar
ked
ly d
iffe
ren
t ch
arac
ters
.
Th
ese
are
win
es t
o b
e en
joye
d i
n t
hei
r yo
uth
, ev
en a
t th
e
top
en
d,
as t
hat
is
wh
en t
hey
are
at
thei
r m
ost
ch
arm
ing.
ww
w.o
livi
er-le
flaiv
e.co
m
WIN
E A
ND
FO
OD
My
favo
uri
te food
com
bin
atio
n w
ith
wh
ite
Bu
rgu
nd
y is
lobst
er
or
scal
lop
. Sm
oke
d s
alm
on
an
d l
igh
t-fl
avou
red
goat
’s c
hee
se
can
be
also
a g
ood
pai
rin
g w
ith
rec
ent
vin
tage
s. O
n r
ead
ing
“Tra
vellin
g D
iva”
, th
e co
okbook b
y th
e ex
cellen
t ch
ef,
Rit
u
Dal
mia
, I
wou
ld s
ugg
est
pai
rin
g w
hit
e B
urg
un
dy
win
e fr
om
the
Côte
des
Bla
ncs
wit
h p
raw
n a
nd
raw
pap
aya
sala
d,
mix
ed
sala
d w
ith
egg
pla
nt
and
fet
a ch
eese
, re
d s
nap
per
cev
ich
e or
seaf
ood
sp
agh
etti
in
a p
aper
par
cel. W
hit
e B
urg
un
dy
win
es a
re
bes
t en
joye
d a
t ar
ou
nd
12°
C. �
BO
NN
AU
D’S
TIP
SH
EE
T
T
he
Ma
iso
n L
am
elo
ise
at
Ch
ag
ny
is m
y f
av
ou
rite
go
urm
et
rest
au
ran
t in
Fra
nce
. It
wa
s p
lace
d �
rst
in t
he
ra
nk
ing
s o
f Tra
ve
lle
r’s
Ch
oic
e R
est
au
ran
t
Aw
ard
s 2
01
3 b
y T
rip
Ad
vis
or.
Eri
c P
ras
an
d F
réd
éri
c
La
my
run
th
is t
err
i�c
thre
e-s
tar
rest
au
ran
t.
www.lameloise.fr
F
or
a c
osy
sta
y in
Be
au
ne
, th
e w
ine
ca
pit
al o
f
Bu
rgu
nd
y, L
’Oct
roi S
ain
t Ja
cqu
es
is a
ch
arm
ing
gu
est
ho
use
loca
ted
wit
hin
10
0 m
etr
es
of
the
fam
ou
s H
osp
ice
s d
e B
ea
un
e o
r H
ôte
l-D
ieu
.
www.chambredhoteabeaune.fr
“
Th
e W
ine
s o
f B
urg
un
dy
” b
y S
ylv
ain
Pit
iot
an
d
Jea
n-C
ha
rle
s S
erv
an
t is
a r
eg
ula
rly
up
da
ted
min
e
of
info
rma
tio
n f
or
win
e lo
ve
rs. Y
ou
ca
n a
lso
wa
tch
the
re
cen
t �
lm, “
A y
ea
r in
Bu
rgu
nd
y: O
ne
ye
ar
wit
h
the
pe
op
le w
ho
ma
ke w
ine
like
no
on
e e
lse
in t
he
wo
rld
”.
B
e s
ure
to
vis
it t
he
Ath
en
ae
um
de
la V
ign
e e
t d
u
Vin
in t
he
cit
y o
f B
ea
un
e, o
ne
of
the
larg
est
lib
rari
es
in B
urg
un
dy
an
d F
ran
ce’s
big
ge
st b
oo
ksh
op
de
vo
ted
to
win
e (www.athenaeum.com).