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Cutting: Spreading Cutting

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Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table, or

specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process. A spread or lay-up is the total amount of

fabric prepared for a single marker. A spread may consist of a single ply or multiple plies. The height of a

lay-up or spread is limited by fabric characteristics, size of the order to be cut, cutting method, and the

vertical capacity of the spreader. The number of plies in a spread may range from 1 to 300.

Spreading may be done manually or by computer-controlled machines. One person or two, depending on

the width and type of fabric, type of equipment, and size of spread, may be involved with the spreading

 process.

Manual spreading:

This is the oldest method & requires two Operators standing opposite in spreading table the Operators

work back from the end, aligning the edges & ensuring that there is no tension & no wrinkles the plies is

normally. Cut with the hand shears or circular cutting machine.

This system is highly time consuming process & it is very difficult to control uniform tension through out

the plies in one lay & between lays.

SPREADING & CUTTING

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Cutting: Spreading Cutting

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Automatic Spreading Machine:

Spreading machine carry the piece of from end to end of the spread distancing one ply at a time on to the

spread. The basic elements consists of a frame or carriage, wheels, traveling in guide rails at the edge of

the table, a fabric support and guide colors to controlling of unrolling of the fabric

Cutting:

Cutting is the pre-production process of separating (sectioning, carving, severing) a spread into

garment parts that are the precise size and shape of the pattern pieces on a marker. The cutting process

may also involve transferring marks and notches from the marker to garment parts to assist operators in

sewing.ACCURACY Accurate cutting facilitates sewing and improves garment quality. Inaccurate cutting may

cause sewing operators to compensate by stretching or easing to make adjoining parts the same length.

Manipulation of this sort increases sewing time and assembly costs and may cause defects and poor fit.

When automated sewing equipment is used, garment parts must be cut accurately as there are no operators

to make adjustments.

Factors that cause cutting inaccuracies are

  Wide or vague lines on the marker

  Imprecise following of lines on the marker

  Variation in the cutting patch

  Shifting of the spread or block

  Allowing fabric to bunch up or push ahead of the knife

  Using improper equipment

  Using improper cutting sequence as parts are cut

CAD Cutting 

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The cutting pitch is the angle at which the cutting device contacts the spread. Cutting pitch

determines the size uniformity, top ply to bottom ply, of pieces cut from in a single stack..

Maintaining the cutting device in a perfectly vertical position, a 90-degree pitch, and accurately

guiding the knife through the spread creates uniformity. Materials may bunch up in front of the

cutting device as it moves through the fabric if it is moved too fast.

Cutting Pitch