1st Progress Meeting
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Transcript of 1st Progress Meeting
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1st Progress Meeting
INESCOP
PROJECT PROGRESS
& PLANNED
ACTIVITIES
Santa Croce Sull’ Arno BIOKIMICA13rd June 2014
Mercedes RoigJoaquín FerrerINESCOP
LIFE 12 ENV/IT/352
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First steps taken by INESCOP
ACTION DATE
B1. Demonstration of the use of traditional chemical acid dyes in leather dyeing
Jan-Jun’14
B2. Demonstration of the quality features of dyed leather with acid dyes
Jan-Jun’14
C1. Monitoring on the environmental impact of acid dyes within leather manufacture
Jan-Sep’14
E1. Project management Continuos
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B1. Demonstration of use of commercialmetal -free acid dyes on leather dyeing
Objective: Obtain leathers dyed with different commercial metal-free acid
dyes, which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes evaluation
Tasks:– Selection of commercial metal-free acid dyes: 15 monochromatic samples + 10 combinated samples– Definition of the leather post-tanning process: neutralization,
retanning, fatliquoring and dyein– Dyeing test at laboratory level– Evaluation of dyeing baths exhaustion by UV-V Espectroscopy
Responsible: COLORTEX - INESCOP
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Test & Results control sheets
• Test reference• Type of leather and
pre-dyeing treatment • Tests on leather:
– Fastness properties – Physical test
• Test on residual baths
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Leather pre-dyeing treatment
Chemical Temperature
Rotation (min.)
200% Water 40°C
0,2% Acetic acid
0,2% Alcohol ethoxylate 30 Drain
200% Water 35°C 5 Drain
Retanning
100% Water 35°C
5% Chrome sulfate (50 Shorlemmer)
2% Synthetic chrome
0,5% Cathionic fatliquoring 180 Automatic rotation all night long
100% Water 40°C 20 Drain
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Laboratory level dyeing test
Dyeing
50% Water 20°C
2% Naphthenic dispersing agent
2% Dye 60
200% Water 55°C
2% Formic acid 30
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Dyeing baths exhaustion (UV-V Espectroscopy)
DYEING BATH EXHAUSTION %
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
0' 10' 30' 60' 90'
Time (minutes)
% E
xhau
stion YELLOW 42
ORANGE 7
RED 131
BLUE 225
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B2. Demonstration of the quality features of dyed leather with metal-free acid dyes
Objective: Evaluate properties of commercial metal-free acid dyes in
the leather dyeing process, which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes properties evaluation
Tasks:– Dye fastness evaluation throuht standard fastness test:
fastness to rubbing (wet and dry), light, PVC migration, water, perspiration and washing
– Physical properties: tensile strebght, resistance to wear and resistance to heat
Responsible: COLORTEX - INESCOP
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Fastness to rubbing (dry/wet)
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Rubbing fastness resultsRUBBING FASTNESS
Wet DryPardo coriacide R 3/4 4/5
Havanna coriacide X3J 3 4/5Burdeos coriacide 3B 3/4 4/5
Pardo anaranjado coriacide X3R 4 4/5Beige inoderme AN 5 5
Tabaco oscuro coriacide 4 5Verde oliva coriacide 4 4/5Burdeos coriacide FD 2/3 4
Navy P/C JRB 4 4Negro coriacide 3/4 4
Pardo oscuro coriacide RJ 4 4/5Verde oscuro LUSTRA BSN 4 4Green (yellow/blue 50:50) 3/4 4
Violet (red/blue 50:50) 4 4/5Brown (1) (yellow/red/blue 33:33:33) 2/3 4/5Brown (2) (Orange/red/blue 33:33:33) 2/3 4/5
Black (1) (yellow/orange/red/blue 25:25:25:25) 3/4 4/5Black (2) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:30:50) 3/4 4/5Black (3) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:50:30) 4 4/5Black (4) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:40:40) 4 5
YELLOW 42 3/4 5ORANGE 7 3/4 5RED 131 3/4 5BLUE 225 4 4/5
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Fastness to light
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Fastness to PVC migration / water spotting
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Fastness to water / perspiration
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Fastness to water resultsFASTNESS TO WATER
Wool Acrylic Polyes Nylon Cotton DicelPardo coriacide R 3/4 4/5 4 2/3 2/3 2/3
Havanna coriacide X3J 2/3 4/5 4 1 1/2 2Burdeos coriacide 3B 3 4/5 5 1 1/2 4
Pardo anaranjado coriacide X3R 3/4 5 5 2/3 2/3 4/5Beige inoderme AN 4/5 5 5 4 4/5 5
Tabaco oscuro coriacide 4/5 5 5 4 5 4/5Verde oliva coriacide 4/5 5 5 3/4 4/5 4/5Burdeos coriacide FD 3 4/5 4 2/3 3 4
Navy P/C JRB 4/5 5 5 4 4 4/5Negro coriacide 4 4/5 4/5 3/4 3/4 4/5
Pardo oscuro coriacide RJ 3/4 4/5 4 2/3 3/4 4Verde oscuro LUSTRA BSN 3/4 4/5 4 2/3 3/4 4/5Green (yellow/blue 50:50) 3/4 4/5 4/5 3/4 4 4/5
Violet (red/blue 50:50) 3 4 4 3 3 4Brown (1) (yellow/red/blue 33:33:33) 3 4/5 4 3 3/4 4Brown (2) (Orange/red/blue 33:33:33) 1 4/5 4 1 3/4 3/4
Black (1) (yellow/orange/red/blue 25:25:25:25) 1 4/5 4 1 3/4 3/4Black (2) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:30:50) 1 4/5 4 1 3/4 3/4Black (3) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:50:30) 1/2 5 4/5 1/2 4 4/5Black (4) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:40:40) 1 4/5 4 1 3/4 3/4
YELLOW 42 2 4/5 4/5 2 3/4 4/5ORANGE 7 1 4/5 4 1 3 3/4RED 131 2 4/5 4/5 2 3 4/5BLUE 225 4 4/5 4/5 4 4 5
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Fastness to washing
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C1. Monitoring on the environmental impact of acid dyes within leather manufacture
Objective: Quantify and evaluate the environmental impact of dyeing
residual bath which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes properties evaluation
Tasks:Chemical analysis of dyeing residual bath by means of standard methods: COD, BOD and biodegradability
Responsible: INESCOP
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COD & BOD results
CDO / BOD5
0
1000
2000
3000
4000
5000
6000
7000
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
DQO
DBO5
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Biodegradability results (BOD/COD)
BIODEGRADABILITY
0
0,05
0,1
0,15
0,2
0,25
0,3
0,35
0,4
0,45
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
DYES
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Thanks for your attention