Discover “Boost Your Test”, a unique and new highlight of the in-cosmetics testing zone in Amsterdam. Itmeans that we will have three days to talk with you about devices, analytical, in-vitro and human testing. Wewill be able to answer specifically your questions about Microbiote, Anti-pollution and Anti-ageing and give younew ideas for your future claim substantiation strategy. Then we will attend ISBS conferences in San Diego inMay. Please find in this newsletter the latest news of our partners’ instrumentation and testing labs: Cerco,Complife, Cosmepar, Dermscan, DNAgensee, Eotech, Eurofins, I.E.C, Intertek, Microfactory, Phylogene andScientist.com and the Boost Your Test partners: CIDP, STRATICELL, PhDTrials and WWI among others.

Happy reading!Anne Charpentier, CEO

What's inside ?

Connected cosmeticians can easily retrieve the solutions to theirtesting needs. We are always under progress referencing the latestmethods, devices or testing labs all over the world and keeping closecollaborative exchanges with the stakeholders of this sector.

How to accelerate your search results:

Directly send a request to the testing lab of your choice

Select the type of subjects: Caucasians, Asians or Africans

Search via specific filters: technological and novelty degrees andresult type

We provide you a robust tool helping cosmeticians to pertinent andinnovative bridge between science and marketing. Let ask specificrequests and give us your feedback at contact@skinobs.com

+17 methods +40 testing labs +27 countries

How does the database accelerateyour skin evalutation ?For complexion radiance effects, you find:

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DNA Gensee: plant/algae authenticationand DNA traceability in cosmetics

Winner of the Cosmetic Victories in 2015 and of theIFSCC’s Henry Maso award in 2018, DNA Gensee is abiotechnological company working on plants andalgae DNA. With 6 years of expertise in DNA

extraction from raw materials, ingredients and cosmetic products, this frenchlab offers the possibility to authenticate the plant species and to trace themduring the processes. DNA Gensee works with cosmetics brands such asClarins andwith ingredients suppliers such as Codif Technologie Naturelle.Genetic analyses allow to guarantee the botanical and geographical origin ofraw materials and extracts to ensure traceability, security, quality andnaturality.www.dnagensee.com

Anti-pollution and ex-vivoobjectivation by CIDP

In response to manufacturers’ needs for anti-pollution claims substantiation, CIDP hasdeveloped ex vivo protocols that objectivelyevaluate effect of pollutants (ozone, cigarettesmoke, ambient dust) and light (UV, blue light,IR) on the skin. Our anti-pollution study

protocols calls for specific biomarkers to be identified and monitored,to show their evolution when samples are exposed to pollutants, lightor both.The ex vivo model is an efficient testing model that serves as a goodintermediate between the in vitro and the in vivo methods. This modelhelps manufacturers demonstrate the effects that their cosmeticsproducts have against pollution.www.cidp-cro.com Booth H150

Anti-ageing in vitro evaluationmethods by StratiCELL

The quest for effective anti-ageing productsrepresents a driving force of the cosmetic andrelies on the availability of in vitro assays to proveefficacy and mechanistic relevance. StratiCELLproposes an extensive panel of assays dedicatedto study the efficacy and the mechanisms of

action of cosmetic ingredients and formulations with anti-agingproperties, including the extracellular matrix remodeling, age-relatedpigmentation disorders, endogenous systems of repair, disposal andrecycling of biological components (autophagy, DNA damage, oxidation,advanced glycation end products, protein unfolding, proteasome), stressinduced or replicative senescence, etc. StratiCELL helps you in revealingthe full potential of your dermo-cosmetic compounds.www.straticell.com Booth J100

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UV radiation is one of the major factorsthat induce photo damage in the skin dueto the production of reactive oxygenspecies (ROS). PhD Trials® researchers,developed a model that use β-carotene,a Yellow chromophore that when oxidizedby UV radiation loses its color. Thediscoloration can then be monitored bycolorimetry (b* parameter). This techniqueallows to measure oxidative stress on skin, on an in vivo way, andtherefore it can be useful to assess of skin ageing properties, particularlythe effectiveness against photoaging effects.www.phdtrials.com Booth H138

PhDTrials supports anti-ageing claims:human anti-oxidant methods

Subject´s forearm showingcolor differences before andafter treatment.

ORION CONCEPT, BIOMETRIX &DERMATEC bring together their expertise inclinical testing and innovative assessmenttechniques to create WWI (WorldWideInnotest). With DERMATEC mobiletechnical staff specially trained,BIOMETRIX subsidiaries over the worldand ORION-CONCEPT R&D of innovative methods, WWI securesyour clinical trials over the world. Reactivity, scientific expertiseand respect of regulatory dispositions of each country arecombined to advise you and conduct with you large-scale clinicaltrials.www.worldwideinnotest.com.

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WWI, WorldWide Innotest: To secureyour clinical trials over the world

Founded in 2007, Scientist.com is the world's mostexperienced marketplace for outsourced scientificservices and products. The marketplace simplifiesresearch sourcing and testing across multiple industries,

including cosmetics.Researchers gain easy access to themost innovative toolsand technologies - while maintaining full compliance with an organization’sprocurement policies. Scientist.com operates enterprisemarketplaces formostof the world’s major pharmaceutical companies, biotechs, chemical researchorganizations, as well as academic researchers and citizen scientists.With over3,700 research areas, including in vivo/ in vitro testing, and access to 2,400+registered suppliers,Scientist.com is sure tomeet your research needs.www.scientist.com

Using Scientist.com, researchers access tothe most innovative technologies

BOOST YOUR TESTDISCOVER THE LATEST INNOVATION

in-cosmetics Amsterdam

New to 2018 is the Boost your Test initiative; an interactive area dedicatedto the subject of cosmetic testing, which is brought to you in partnershipwith Skinobs.

What will be covered in Boost your Test?

The feature will spotlight three different methods of cosmetic testing;human testing, in-vitro testing, as well as testing through high techdevices, all within the categories of anti-pollution, microbiome, andanti-ageing.

Visitors can explore the feature and discover through information postersand digital presentations how each of these innovativemethods ensure theefficacy proof and the performance evidence of personal care products.

Cutaneous Lipids contribute tothe main role of the skin: itsbarrier function. Theirpresence in sufficient quantitylimits the drying of the skin

and preserves the Hydrolipidic balance.They have anundeniable impact on skin ageing but also oncomfort. Cosmetics come to preserve, strengthenthe lipidic film but also to compensate for theshortcomings. Direct measurements such asSebumetry, Sebutape, Raman measurement, andepidermal lipid assays enable the lipid quantification.Other techniques allow to evaluate the appearanceor properties of a skin, deficient in lipids and thenonce rebalanced: Tewl, hydration rate, desquamation,surface tension (wettability), clinical scoring andscales Self-assessment.www.cercotests.com

Surface and In-depth Lipidsby the Cerco

The latest AEVA-V3 versionthat equips all 3Dmeasurement solutions,offers intelligent

measurement control during the acquisitionphase. An analysis of the contrast and stability ofthe measurements generates a quality valuewhich according to the tolerance thresholdchooses,will alert the user and recommend him toredo the measurement. This analysis helps toguarantee the quality of the measurement inrelation to the environment and to the shake. Thesoftware also offers a real-time comparison andvisualisation of shape and volume changes atthe following times to control the expression orposition effects that might affect the product.www.eotech.fr

More Control for BetterObjectivity With the NewVersion AEVA-V3 by Eotech

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Eurofins: Always on the safe side - Focus on skin protectionEurofins clinical laboratories test for several years, the benefits of cosmetic careproducts on the protective functions of the skin upper layers and surface hydrolipidic film,but also the absence of harmful effects of detergents on these same functions.Instrumental methodologies are implemented to specifically measure the preventive orrestorative benefits of care products against solar radiation, erosion of the StratumCorneum, exposure to the cold, to surfactants and to pollution particulate matters…, butalso the mild cleanser effects, respecting the hydrolipidic film.Each test may involve a set

of adapted measurement (pH, TEWL, temperature, kinetics of sebum secretion, microbiome analysis,surface or in-depth moisturisation, pollution particulates deposit etc…).www.eurofins.com/cosmetics

SKIN, HAIR, SCALP AND LIPIDSThe lipid family of the skin is large with glycolipids, phospholipids,sphingolipids, ceramides, triglycerides, cholesterol, fatty acids… andassures via various mechanisms and structures, the good health of the skinfrom the upper layers of the Stratum Corneum (hydrolipidic film) layers to theintercellular spaces of the epidermis. Depending on the skin or hair type(greasy skin, prone to acne…), the age, the sex, the zone of the body, theethnic origin and the environment, the claims about “lipids” are numerous tosubstantiate: regulate the sebum, re-lipidation, insure the barrier function,non-occlusive, mattifying… The creams, the shower gels, the shampoos orthe make-up need to protect or to normalise this essential component.

Skinobs platform lists more than 25 methods - qualitative aspect(composition, structure, rigidity…) and quantity (number, ratio…)- in additionto other methods which are consumers testing, clinical scorages andsensory analysis. Depending on the probe uses, these methods can beimplemented on the skin, the scalp or the hair:

Sebum content: QuantiSeb, DermaLab Sebum, Sebumeter, SebumScaleSebum analysis: Shotgun mass spectrometry , Metabolimic MS/MS-16srDNA-PCR (Phylogene), Raman microscopy…Barrier function via TEWL measures: Aquaflux, Dermalab TEWL,Evapometer, Vapometer, TewameterSkin gloss: Goniolux®, ColorFace, GlossyMeter, SkinGlossMeter, DiffuseReflectance Spectrometry, Observ520®, Hair tune, Tribology…Hair shine: Goniolux®, GlossyMeter, SkinGlossMeter, Samba Hair, Salsa…The skin/Hair surface: pores size, comedolytic aspect, dark spots…with all types of dermascopesSkin structure: Confocal microscopy, Scanning electron microscopy,Optical multiphoton tomography, Atomic Force Microscopy

Lipids of the skin are also related to the hydration, skin barrier function andmicrobiome. On the hair, sebum can be associated with dandruff phenomena.Since fewyears, the lipid balance is impacted by the environment (sun, pollution,water quality) and the lifestyle. The challenge of the personal care remains thecapacity to maintain this physiological balance while protecting the skin.

25 METHODS

46 TESTING LABSIN 27 COUNTRIES

MORE THAN 15DEVICESMANUFACTURERS

New partners key figures

3Centers by WWI

5Dermscan’s testing center in the world

10Labs in the world by Complife Group

25thEotech anniversary

900swabbings for microbiote studies in 2017in Eurofins French Clinical Laboratories

1977Cerco was founded

2,200analysis implemented by Cosmepar

in 2016

8,000volunteers included by Intertek

25,000volunteers in the world by Dermscan

Agenda

2-4MAY.

ISBS CongressSan Diego

30th IFSCC CongressMünich

18-21SEPT.

NewsRead the latest news on cosmeticstesting. Suscribe to the online

Newsletter :www.skinobs.com/news

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more than 100 CRO’s

more than 35 devicemanufacturers

Crédits: Freepik

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Skinobs map:a worlwide viewof your testingpartners

Cutaneous tape stripping: An innovative tool for efficacy assessment byComplifeSkin biopsies and tape stripping are the two techniques used in skin barrier research. However,in comparison with skin biopsies, tape stripping has great advantages in being cheap, easy,quick, painless and leaves no scar. All these characteristics makes tape stripping the idealcandidate as a useful tool in the cosmetic research field. In Complife’s laboratories, afterinvestigating the skin barrier properties, they investigated the opportunity to integrate the clinicalexperience with the in vitro laboratory expertise. And that’s how the history of tape strippingevolved to biochemical investigation of selected skin parameters.www.complifegroup.com Booth L125

Intertek evaluates the products impact on the cutaneous microbiotaIntertek offers 3 levels of investigation from sample panels:

Quantitative PCRMetagenomicsMetaproteomic

Intertek'sexpertiseforMicrobiota isasuitablerecruitmentof volunteers, samples management expertise: samplingand transport, analysis and results interpretation by skinmicrobiome experts team.www.intertek-france.com/etudes-cliniques.

The cutaneous microbiota plays an essential role inskin health.Consequently, it becomes necessary to address theevaluation of cosmetic impact and medical device on skinmicrobiota: either to avoid any skin microbiota imbalanceor, on the contrary, to re-establish the balance if anydysbiosis (atopy,dandruff,acne ...). Intertekconductsclinicalstudies on healthy volunteers or on volunteers sufferingfrom a cutaneous pathology in order to analyze this impact.

Microfactory unveils a new antiperspirant efficacy testingMicrofactory industrialises a new patent-protected microfluidic instrument called SOD4, and anew method of antiperspirant efficacy evaluation. The product will disrupt an existing marketand create a new market (R&D and test of raw ingredients) displacing Gold Standard technology:Gravimetry. The innovative polymer technology is a microfluidic instrument mimicking in vivothe action of the antiperspirants underneath the skin. It is an advanced process based onadvanced microfluidic materials. Microfactory ambition is to become a European and worldwide gold standard, FDA approved, for mandatory efficacy evaluation of anti-perspirants and awholerange of cosmetic products.www.microfactory.eu

Sunscreen products play a major role in protecting the skin against damages relatedto UV exposure. To maintain the maximum level of protection, it is recommendedto renew applications every two hours. To determine the remanence of this type ofproducts over time, to compare the substantivity of different formulations, Dermscanoffers a simple and fast approach. Acquisitions made with UV light using VISIA®

reveal the fluorescence of porphyrins on the skin. This fluorescence disappears immediately after application of a sunscreenand reappears gradually following the elimination of the product.www.dermscan.com Booth J80

Dermscan tracks the remanenceof sunscreen products

They have placed their trust in us

Cosmepar Group celebratesits 40th Anniversary

By opening anadditional testing UnitClinical In the heart ofNantes in March,COSMEPAR expands itspossibilities for the

reception and recruitment of volunteers, thecurrent number of nearly 6 000. The group isfocusing on the effect of synergy of its threelaboratories for deploy a unique expertise. Thetests on the Skin Microbiome or theMicrobiological Use Test (MUT) developed overthe past three years, illustrate this winningstrategy with an increase in the "Clinical"turnover of almost + 70%. To accompany thisdevelopment, the company will therefore doublethe area dedicated to testing in vivo on humans.www.cosmepar.fr Booth K120

I.E.C Demonstrates SebumRegulation via Multi-ethnic Studies

I.E.C. offers multi-ethnic clinicalstudies (Caucasian, Asian,African) to enhance the effect ofcosmetic products and / or theenvironment on skin lipids byquantitative and qualitative

sebum assay (fatty acids, squalene, glycerides),direct measurements of sebum (Sebumeter,Sebutape) or indirect by evaluation of gloss(Glossymeter, Goniolux, photographic analysis).www.iecfrance.com

Quantitative PCRs of major species orgenus, depending on wished effects fromproduct positioning. Gives answers as «Theproduct has/does not have an effect on testedgenus/species ».

Metagenomics comparative study of skinmicrobiome by NGSequencing 16S rDNA. Givesanswers in a report as: « The product/treatmentdoes or does not impact the semi-quantitativecomposition and microbiome diversity».

Metaproteomics comparative study of skinand microbiome by relative quantificationLC-MS/MS « shotgun proteomics » andbioinformatics/biostatistics dedicated dataprocessing. Gives answers in a report as: «Effects of the product on functions andinteractions of skin and microbiomesimultaneously ».www.phylogene.com

Starting from clinicalsamples such as swabs,Phylogene offers threetypes of services:

Phylogene analyses the skininteractions of microbiome

Basf – Bayer – Berkem – Botanichem – Capsum – Chemyunion – Clariant – CLR – Codif – Cosmo – ingredients – Covestro – DSM – ExpanscienceExsymol – Gattefosse – Givaudan – ID bio – IFF – Impag – Lipoid – Lipotec – Lucas Meyer – Merck – Mibelle – Naturex – Nikko Chemicals – NikkolOcealys Provital Rahn – Robertet – Rossow – Sanofi – Seppic – Silab – Sollicebiotech – Thor – Unipex – WeckerleAesop – Ales – Alpol – Amore Pacific – Asepta – Avon – Biersdorf - Bioderma Boots – Chanel – Clarins – Coty – Esthederm – Eugene PermaExpanscience Galderma – Hermes Parfums – Hormeta – Ingrid Millet – Johnson & Johnson – KDC – Kiko – Laboratoires de Biarritz – Laboratoires LéaLe Petit Olivier Léa Nature – L’Occitane – L’Oréal – LVMH –Make Up For Ever – Maqpro – Marionnaud – Mavala – McPherson’s – MNKMultaler - NaturaNuxe-Oriflame Philips – Pierre Fabre – Procter & Gamble – Rivadis – Sanofi – Shiseido – Sisley – SVR – Thalgo – Yves Rocher - Yves Saint Laurent

Contactcontact@skinobs.comwww.skinobs.comTechnolac 17 rue lac Saint André73370 Le Bourget-du-lac FRANCE