1906 #50 Pantalon Ferme --- Closed Pantaloons

Last year, we had given to Bleuette a pantaloon cut very simply, to not overawe the

skill rising in their mothers. Today, we can face more difficult things.

Here is a closed pantaloon. Figure no. 1 you are given the flat tracing of one leg. The

pattern is the desired size; you will not have to do any more than to copy it, to cut it out

and place it on the fabric folded in two, or on two similar pieces.

You will copy then the drawing of the embroidery onto tracing paper. To transfer this

scallop on each leg of the pantaloons, you will have a sheet of blue carbon paper

[dressmakers’ carbon paper] . The one which already served you for the chemise can be

utilized, because it is useful a long time. Place quite flat, on a table or a drawing board,

one leg of the pantaloon; putting on top first the carbon paper, then the tracing paper, fix

the whole by thumbtacks or pins and, with a hard pencil, go over the scallops of the copy.

Remove the tracing of the leg of the pantaloon and the carbon paper, and you will find

the scalloping transferred in blue on the fabric.

Start again the operation for the second leg.

Before sewing the pantaloons, it is necessary to embroider the bottom. For the

manner of padding and of making the scallop, defer to the preceding issue, the directions

given for the embroidery of the chemise. Figure 3 of the article: “Nous Habillons

Bleuette” [We Equip Bleuette] will show you the manner of carrying out this double

work.

Now close each leg by the seam AB. By looking quite attentively at the image, you

will not make a mistake.

Make now two eyelets with buttonhole stitch, or overcasting, at the place indicated by

the drawing and, always on the wrong side, place a small strip of fabric, neatly sewn with

running stitch on the two sides. Between this strip and the fabric of the pantaloon, will

pass a small ribbon of which the two ends, leaving by the eyelets, will tie themselves on

the side in a bow quite pretty.

The two legs of the pantaloon thus prepared, you will join them together by the seam

of the front and the seam behind until the small slit of which you will hem the two sides.

Make a dart at the place indicated on the pattern; hem the top and, in this hem, pass a

ribbon to fasten the pantaloons. See the drawing of the garment (fig. #1), and you will

understand completely the way of assembling the object.

Translation copyright 2010 Deirdre Gawne – not for sale – www.dressingbleuette.com