17 Coffeehouse

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COFFEEHOUSES IN EARLY

MODERN MEDITERRENIANWORLD

A History of Coffee by Cemal Kafadar

*


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Coffeehouse as an ivenitablepart of daily life.


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Coffee

It s a brewedbeverage preparedfrom roasted

seeds, commonlycalled coffeebeans, of thecoffee plant.

The term wasintroduced toEurope via theOttoman Turkish

kahve, which is


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Coffee Flower


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Coffee Seeds


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Coffee Beans


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Coffeehouse

Coffeehouse: A coffeehouse is anestablishment which serves preparedcoffee or other hot beverages.

It was named with similar words indifferent languages. French/Portuguese:caf; Spanish: cafetera or caf; Italian:caffetteria, German: Caf or Kaffeehaus,

Greek: , , or, Turkish: Kahvehane. As a social institution, coffeehouses are

the centers of social interaction.


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The Introduction ofCoffeehouse to Istanbul

Pecevi, an Ottoman historian of the earlyseventeenth century, wrote that:

Until the year 962 (1554-55), coffee and

coffeehouses did not exist in theOttoman Empire. About that year, twopersons, Hakam from Aleppo andShams from Damascus, came to thecity: they each opened a large shop inthe district called Tahtalkala, and beganto sell coffee.


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Coffee finds its institution asCoffeehouse By the time it reached Istanbul, coffee had been

known in the certain parts of the Arab world(the Arabian peninsula, late Mamluk Egypt andSyria) for more than a century.

The early consumption of this ibeverage waslimited to Sufi orders, homes, and small streetshops.

When coffee reached Cairo and Istanbul, itbegan to be used in a social institution as acoffeehouse.

Coffeehouses spread all around the empire. The coffee was spreading as a part of daily life

both eastward to Iran and India and westwardto Europe, with the opening of coffeehouses in

Isfahan, Delhi, Oxford, Paris, Vienna, and manyother cities before the end of the 17th century.


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As a meeting place

These shops became meeting places for

1.pleasure seekers

2.idlers, and

3.some intellectuals from among the men ofletters and literati. Some read books and fine writings. some were busy with backgammon and

chess, some brought new poems and talked of

literature. there was no place like it for pleasure and

relaxation, and filled it until there was noroom to sit or stand.


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First Complaints about Coffeeand Coffeehouses

The imams and muezzins said that:People have become addicts of thecoffeehouse: nobody comes to the

mosques!The ulema said: It is a house of evil

deeds; it is better to go to the winetavern than there.

The preachers tried to forbid it and issuedfetvas against it.

In the time of Sultan Murad III, there were

great prohibitions to coffeehouses.


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Life without coffee!

After a short time, it became sowidespread that the ban wasabandoned.

The preachers and muftis now said that todrink coffee is lawful, halal.

Among scholars of religion, the sheikhs,the viziers, and the great, there wasnobody who did not drink coffee.

It even reached such a point that thegrand viziers built great coffeehouses as

investments.


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a s e con r u on oCoffeehouses to the OttomanEmpire Social arena; secularization of public space; literary activity; the formation and manipulation of public

opinion; tensions with the authorities;

coffee as a commodity, the coffeehouse as an investment.


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Coffeehouse for all thepeopleThevenot who is a traveler in Istanbul in

1655 said that:There is no one poor or rich, who does not

drink at least two or three cups a day. All sorts of people come to these placeswithout distinction of religion or socialposition; there is not the slightest bit of

shame in entering such a place, andmany go there simply to chat with oneanother.


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All the people except women

For a while after its introduction to theMiddle East, the Balkans, and Europe,coffeehouses were male spaces.

Lady Montague, wife of the Britishambassador to the Ottoman empire inthe early 18th century, visited theOttoman public bathhouses for women,

and called them as womenscoffeehouses.


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Different kinds of Sociability:Secular Space

The coffeehouse provided a different kindof sociability from other traditionalinstitutions.

It was secular. It was outside the directcontrol of the religious authorities.

The taverns were banned to all of Muslimsociety.

Coffee as a beverage was not forbiddenlike alcohol.

Therefore, it was open to both Muslims

and non-Muslims.


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Turkish Shadow Theater


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Medda

h


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Europe

Europe met with coffee through travelersin Ottoman lands.

In Europe, physicians were introduced

first with coffee because it was used asmedicine.

Starting around the middle of the 17thcentury, coffee became an attractionand then a habit for Europeans as well.


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London

1700s


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Coffee Trade

With the widespread consumption of coffee, itstrade also became very important.

Throughout the late-17th and early-18thcenturies, coffee was exported in largequantities from the Middle East toward Europe.

By the 1710s, the Dutch were growing coffee inJava for the European market.

The French were growing coffee in their WestIndian colonies. Soon they were even

exporting coffee to the Ottoman empire. Through the middle of the 18th century, Colonialcoffee was cheaper than coffee coming fromthe Red Sea.


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Confrontation Zone betweenState and Public

The coffeehouse had a negative position inthe eyes of state authorities.

They perceived coffeehouse as ascapegoat for urban disorder.

It was the center of popular politicaldiscourse. As a measurein the sixteenth and

seventeenth centuries, the authoritiesapplied periodic bans on all thecoffeehouses.

But in the later centuries, the attitude of theState canged, they closed only somecoffeehouse as a warning to all.(breten

lil-gayr)


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Invention of Nightime

the coffee-drinking in public was relatedto the increasing use of the nighttime.

In early modern Ottoman context, it was

very difficult to control nightime forOttoman authorities.

They were using candles and lighting oil,and street lighting was not sowidespread in every neighborhood.


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A miniaturefrom thesecond half of

the 16thcentury

Manuscript 439, folio 9. Courtesy of theTrustees of the Chester Beatty Library.Quoted from Ralph S. Hattox, Coffee andCoffeehouses, The Origins ofa SocialBeverage in the Medieval Near East,(Seattle and London: University ofWashington Press, 1996), p. 52. For him,

it is from the mid-sixteenth century.


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The Number of Coffeehouses inIstanbul in 18th Century

Place NumberPlaces between Suleymaniye and Sirkeci 90Places between Edirnekap and Beyazt on the

part of Golden Horn142

Places between Topkap and Beyazt on the

part of Marmara Sea

140

-Exterior of the City Walls of Asitane i Aliye 142From Kadky to Anadolu Kava 253From Beikta to Rumeli Kava 124

Galata 162Tophane 120Kasmpaa ?

,Eyp Hasky 106Toplam +1279 ?


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Geographical Distribution ofCoffeehouses in Istanbul

h i f ff h


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The Proportion of Coffeehousesto Other Shops

Place # of coffeeshopkeepers

# of esnaf

Tophane-i Amire Region 33 113

Tophane-i Amire Square 14 75

Boazkesen Market 12 54

Firuz Aa Market 9 35

Sur- Mkebbir Market 3 3

Cihangir Market 3 3

Sal (Tuesday) Market ve FndklMarket

15 73

Dereii Market 7 22

Kazganc Market 2 5

Aaalt in Taksim 3 3Aa Camii Market 2 8

Aa Cami-i erif Market 2 8

In front of the Saray- Galata 8 21

Gate of Kule-i Kebir (Galata Tower) 10 39

Total 123 462


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The engraving by Melling

Th All i


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Thomas Alloms engravingInterior of a Turkish Caffinet

C ff Ki th P t b


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Coffee Kiosque, on the PortbyWilliam Bartlett


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Neighborhood Coffeehouses

Most coffeehouses were placed in theresidential neighborhoods of the city.

C ff h i T k


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Coffeehouses in Topkap,Flandin


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Coffeehouses in Eyp,


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Edirnekap Direkleraras

Tiryaki ars Fatih Camii


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Tiryaki ars Fatih CamiiAvlusu

Social Gathering Spaces in


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Social Gathering Spaces inNumbersS p a ce S o u rce D a te N u m b e rCoffeehouse,ahvehane ,ahve dkkanKahveci

,ADVNDBM

1790s ~ 1350ublic Baths ,Hammam CevdetBelediye 1766 195,averns

,erbethane,oltuk Meyhane( -DBM

),ZCR20446

1827 560

obacco Shops ,uhanDkkanlar.MAD d9980 1781 1470


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Gnl ne kahve ister ne kahvehaneGnl sohbet ister kahve bahane

As a last

T h e h e a rt n e ith e r d e sire s co ffe e n o r

co ffe e h o u se

,T h e h e a rt is a fte r so h b e t th e co ffe e isju st a p re text

17 Coffeehouse

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